Project

Introduction:
Textile finishing usually includes treatments such as scouring, bleaching, dyeing and printing,
the final meachanical or chemical finishing operations, that during this stage are carried out on
textile products(staple, sliver or top yarns or filaments, woven or knitted fabrics) to enhance their
basic characteristics like dye penetration, printability, wettability,colour , hand and
appearance.by textle finishing , we also mean all the processing operations that’s , through
included in the so-called finishing stage, are generally applied to the fabrics to improve their
appeaqrance, hand and properties, at times in accordance with their field of application.
The finishing stage plays a fundamental role in the excellency of the commercial results of
textiles, which strictly depend on market requirements that are becoming increasingly stringent
and unpredictable, permitting very short response times for textile manufactures.The term
finishing and fundamental finishing are there fore similar and both plays a fundamental role.
Depending upon the type of textile substrate to be treated(staple, yarn or fabric) functional
finishing process are carried out using different means:

Mechanical means: Involving the application of physical principles such as friction, temperature,
pressure, tension and many others.

Chemical substance: Involving the application of synthesis or natural che4mical products, which
bind to the fibre more or less permanently .

Combined Mechanical and chemical means: Involving the application of both chemical and
mechanical processes.

The main purposes of functional finishing processes are the following:

.Develop the product finishing in all its fundamental elements such as hand and appearance.
. Give the finished fabric some properties that grant on optimum behaviour during the making up
and all through the life of the textile.
The parameters influencing the choice of the most suitable finishing process are the following:
. Fibre nature or fabric to be subjected to functional finishing treatments.
. Final application of the fabric to be subjected functional finishing treatments.

In finishing section fabric GSM, Spirality and shrinkage being controlled in various
finishing machine such as squeezer, dryer, open & tube compactor and stenter.
Some descriptions are given below:

Squeezer:
Textile materials such as knitted fabrics are usually extended in length wise direction due
to tension specially in dyeing process. When the dyed fabrics are passed through the
squeezer dia of the fabric can be controlled by adjusting the width of the spreader frame
by controlling width wise shrinkage. Squeezer machine helps to remove water from the
fabric.
Specification:
Name: squeezer machine.
Brand: SANTAX
Origin: Switzerland.
Data: Squeezer
Fabric Color GSM Machine Over feed Dia Dia+
type speed
Single Navy 180 20 +30% 60 +4
jersey
Single Dark red 160 20 25% 60 +4
jersey
Single Sky blue 150 20 20% 69 +4
Lacoste
Double Avg(wood 180 20 25% 66 +4
lacoste )
Interlock black 210 20 18% 108 +5
Flat back black 340 20 15% 75 +5
rib

1. Slitting & Dewatering m/c

Specification:
M/C quantity : 01
Brand-BIANCO
Origin-Italy
Pressure -4-4.5 bar
Output / Input Dancing R/1 pressure -0.5 bar
Power supply-400 volt
Utility Used : Electricity
Main Function :-To cut the tubular fabric for opening .
-To remove a slight amount of water in padding zone

Stenter:
In Stenter machines some chemicals i.e. softener, starch are used in fabric for smoothness
of fabric and other properties.
Fabric GSM, shrinkage, width also controlled.
Specification:
Name: Stenter machine
Mahine bran d: FABCON
Origin: USA
Data: Stenter
Fabric Color GSM Required Finished Finished Shrinkage Shrinkage
type dia dia GSM in length in width
wise wise
Single Navy 180 60 61 178 -5% -4%
jersey
Single Dark red 160 60 61 155 -4% -2%
jersey
Single Sky blue 150 69 68 147 -3% -7%
Lacoste
Double Avg(wood 180 66 63 165 -7% -9%
lacoste )
Interlock black 210 108 109 210 -2% -4%
Flat back black 340 75 75 345 -4% -3%
rib

Here we see that length wise shrinkage is more than that for width wise shrinkage. Width
wise shrinkage is negative i.e. width of fabric increased. During the dyeing period, fabric
extends length wise in highest possible maximum range. The main reason for this
extension is its behavior. Normally higher the GSM, lower the shrinkage, it is not true
during processing because generally fabric width less than required width, so we can say
that fabric GSM increases and decreases with fabric with decreases and increases in
processing.

Dryer:
Some water droplet trapped within the fibers and yarns by hydrogen bond are not
removable by squeezing, so to remove these water, the material must be dried. When the
squeezed fabric is passed through the dryer air passing through top and bottom side to the
fabric and makes a wavy shape which helps to keep fabric in relax form and control
length wise shrinkage due to overfeeding which depends on the amount of shrinkage and
expected GSM of the finished fabric.
Specification:
Name: Dryer machine
Brnad: SANTAX
Origin: Switzerland

Data: Drying

Fabric Color GSM Line Over feed temperature Vibration

type speed
Single Navy 180 7.1 25% 110/120/130 600
jersey
Single Dark red 160 7.1 25% 110/120/130 600
jersey
Single Sky blue 150 10 25% 147/150/153 600
Lacoste
Double Avg(wood 180 7 25% 100/120/130 600
lacoste )
Interlock black 210 6.7 30% 148/150/153 640
Flat back black 340 8.1 20% 155/160/165 650
rib

Practical data:
 Tumble dry

Single Jersey 120 GSM (Yarn Type: Cotton)

Sample No. Shrinkage Twisting Spirality
maximum
Length wise Width wise (cm)
01 -4.5% -5% 2.8 5.6
02 -1.51% -4.16% 2.5 5
03 -0.74 -2.41 2 4
04 +.44 -3.92 2.4 4.8
05 0 -6.12 2.5 5
Single Jersey 130 GSM (Yarn Type: Cotton)
01 -7.4% -5% 2 4
02 -0.74 -2.09 2.3 4.6
03 -4 -4.9 1.9 3.8
04 -2.22 -3.92 1 2
05 -3.75 -0.99 1.8 3.6
Single Jersey 140 GSM (Yarn Type: Cotton)
01 -3.62 -1.96 1.5 3
02 -3.7 -0.96 1.3 2.6
03 -3.43 -6.06 1.7 3.4
04 -5.18 -4.12 1.4 2.8
05 0 -4 1.5 3

Single Jersey 160 GSM (Yarn Type: Cotton)

01 -0.72 -4 1 2
02 -3.67 -3.84 0.8 1.6
03 -1.17 -5.10 0.9 1.8
04 -2.14 -5.82 1.6 3.2
 Fig: Relation between GSM & Spirality% (Tumble
Dry)

Fig: Relation between GSM & Shrinkage% (Tumble Dry)

Flat dry

Single Jersey 120GSM (Yarn Type: Cotton)

Sample No. Shrinkage Twisting Spirality
maximum
Length wise Width wise (cm)
01 -3.62 -1.96 1.5 3
02 -4 -4.9 1.9 3.8
03 -3.43 -6.06 1.7 3.4
04 -5.18 -4.12 1.4 2.8
05 0 -4 1.5 3
Single Jersey 130GSM (Yarn Type: Cotton)
01 -0.72 -4 1 2
02 -3.67 -3.84 0.8 1.6
03 -1.17 -5.10 0.9 1.8
04 -2.14 -5.82 1.6 3.2
05 -4.83 -3.84 0.7 1.4
Single Jersey 140 GSM (Yarn Type: Cotton)
01 -2.18 -4.73 0.5 1
02 0 -4.95 1.1 2.20
03 -4.83 -3.84 0.7 1.4
04 -1.17 -3.84 0.5 0.72
05 -0.72 -6.79 0.5 0.75

Single Jersey 160 GSM (Yarn Type: Cotton)

01 -4.37 -4 1 1.45

02 -4.34 -4.9 0.5 0.72

03 -2.17 -4.95 1.2 1.73
 Fig: Relation between GSM & Spirality% (Flat
dry)

Compactor:
Compactor is the most is the most important machine in the finishing section. It helps to
controls fabric width, GSM of the fabric and shrinkage.
Data: compactor
Fabric Color GSM Line Compaction% dia
type speed
Single Navy 180 40 8% +4
jersey
Single Dark red 160 40 6% +3
jersey
Single Sky blue 150 25 8% +3
Lacoste
Double Avg(wood 180 40 18% +5
lacoste )
Interlock black 210 40 15% +8
Flat back black 340 40 15% +2
rib

In compactor, pre shrinkage treatment is done here. Finally GSM and width are
controlled in this section.
Shoe: electric heating system
Temperature: 98-1050C
Gulling shoe button: used to move the shoe upward and downward.
Feed and retard roller:
heat is given by steam, temperature for both rollers: 60-800C(set: 60-750C)
retard roll speed is less than feed roll during compacting.
Shape is used for adjusting the fabric dia before compacting.
The sizes of shape are:
Size 1: 80-120cm
Size 2: 60-92cm
Size 3: 52-70cm
Size 4: 38-50cm

GSM and shrinkage control mechanism:

Dia mark is adjusted manually by feeding the fabric through the middle of feed pulley of
the sap. Before compacting the fabric, it is damped by spraying the steam from the steam
box. As the feed roller speed is greater than the retard roll, the fabric is shrunk in length
wise. The blade and the heated shoe are used to give the calendaring effect. The distance
between the blade and the heated shoe is very important for compacting. The closer the
distance, higher the compaction percentage. The sap controls finished dia of the fabric. If
length wise shrinkage is more than required, the fabric is wetted again and dried. Dried
fabric is again compacted by extending the width of the fabric by sap.
Retard roller speed is always slower than feed roll. The speed for the retard roll is
expressed as negative value. It varies according to the design and structure of the fabric.
As for an example:
Types of fabric Retard roll over speed
Single jersey -(6-12)%
Interlock and rib -(10-25)%
Single jersey fleece -(20-30)%
Single and double lacoste, pique -(15-25)%
Lycra single jersey -(30-35)%

Loops are of perfect size because finished fabric width is controlled accurately. Besides
this, the fabric is compacted length wise considering the standard shrinkage allowance.

Sweading M/C :
Brand -TUBETEX
Model: 10 GS X 1952
Origin-U.S.A
Year of manufacture-2005
Voltage - 400 V
Normal Current - 96 amp.
No of Pile :03
No of Counter-Pile :03
Setting Point :
Taker -in- Tension (14 K/g)
Drum Tension (47 K/g)
Fabric Return Tension (15 K/g)
Plaiter Tension (14 K/g)
R.p.m of drum (22)
Fabric Speed (10 m/min)
Pile/Counter Pile Speed ( 80-90 m/min )

Loop dimension changes at different stages:

1) After scouring, bleaching and dyeing:
Loops are extended in lengthwise because of continuous tensioning on the fabric.
Thus the fabric is elongated length wise but shrunk in widthwise.

2) After dewatering and squeezing:

The loops are smaller than the previous one. It is controlled by the overfeeding of
Albatross lower roll (the lower roll is faster than upper roll)

3) After compacting or stentering:

CONCLUSION:
Bibliography:
1) Principle of textile testing;
-J.E. Booth (Third Edition)
2) Watsons textile design and color
-Z. Grosicki (7th Edition)
3) www.indiantextilejournal.com
4) www.emeraldinsight.com
5) www.encyclopedia.com
6) www.fibre2fashion.com