NOBODY KNOWS THIS WORLD BETTER NATIONAL SOS eceRu eesti Ce TCR Timeratm rare ed gn ‘ANNIVERSARY ‘SPECIAL DelhiCONTEN GAMING FOR ART, GRIEF AND. PROTEST ACTOR PANKAJ TRIPATHI ON HIS TRAVEL PHILOSOPHY € CHEF KIRAN JETHWA'S SPIRITED JOURNEYS FROM JAPAN TO EGYPT, LUCKY CHARMS ARE SYMBOLS OF HOPE AROUND THE WORLD IN 10 COFFEES FESTIVAL FERVOUR IN MANDU, MADHYA PRADESH THE COCONUT IN NUMBERS ‘A GUIDEBOOK TO GLOBAL ADVENTURES ¥116 BEST SOLO TRIP MEMORIES HOMETOWN DISCOVERIES. TOINSIDERS. FROM ACROSS INDIA'S TOWNS AND. CITIES SHARE SECRET NOOKS THAT BRING THEM Joy> ROAD-TRIPPING THROUGH THE MISSISSIPPI DELTA,US.A.W HIKING TO NEPAL'S MARDI HIMAL BASE CAMP EARTH, WIND & FIRE IN GUATEMALA ® NGTIs ath anniversary issue brings you colour and nostalgia, Hometown ode by residents from cities like Kolkata, Mumbai, and Agra (pictured: Sikandra Fort by Leonid Andronoy)— alongside tales cof virtual escapes and foraging adventuresNATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA [AD SALES (mint Anti) WINNER OF THE SATTE AWARD FOR BEST TRAVEL PUBLICATION IN INDIA 2 warctoreaveLLeeanLIFE BEYONDLIFE BEYOND TRAVEL WORLD Gaming for Art, Grief and Protest eee | PK] June 7 GDFOR DECADES GAMERS HAVE LIVED VIBRANT LIVES WITHIN VIRTUAL SPACES. STRIPPED OF PHYSICAL CONTACT DURING A PANDEMIC, THE WORLD IS CATCHING UP suny 200Wher chef indiiivanstrageling tostay SiiFulatcA Wien SodedoUgHesperiments, Hlmmaker Fd MumbfResidenEMObIEFsraney atvended a hip Prop concert SaRslaRmee Before you abject, he didn't 1 dS HRRERBENNGY ic was al very kosher, and exciting. THERESEWAs American rapper Travis Scott, and the veneWaga simulated sland-stadium Inside Fortnite, a pABUPr online video game lout soc ‘Gaming has always been about community. The pandemic has only alerted the world tot,” points out Israney, who attended the April 25 event with friends, roughly a month after he stopped. ‘meeting them in person. The motley crew included colleagues from an e-sports company he co-founded, as well as rookies who downloaded Fortnite just so they could “headbang to Travis Scott.” When Israney aka Tsuki (game name) says headbang, he isn't being euphemistic. Headbangor’ and ‘rage’ wore some of the emotes that could be used to make your avatar groove to Scott's music, which, in keeping with rea Time experience, swelled and faded in syne with your ‘movements within the stadium. All he had to da was log into the game, scout the arena for a good spot and prep my avatar in a customised Travis Seott (6 navoormaveatemss ‘skin'—the digital equivalent of slipping into your prism t-shirt (or a Roger Waters bodysuit, if you're cool) before Pink Floyd takes stage With the final blip of the countdown clock that attendees could see from any p Scott's avatar appeared, looking like a luminous, transcendent alter-ego of himself. Cast in music and ambient purple haze, about a million people from across the world forgot that they were really justlounging on desktop chairs, beds. or couches. Ithelped thatthe stadium periodically morphed Into outer-space and underwater settings, where cone could swim or float alongside the artist. ‘Try catching that high ina physical concert.” laughs Tsuki, dubbing it the best 15 minutes of his locksown. Unless you count the screening of Christopher Nolan's movie trailer, which he attended next month. ‘The screening, which offered an exclusive dekko at Nolan's upcoming film Tenet, was also hosted on Fortnight’ hip island, a feature on the game's arty Royale’ mode. Mind you, this artand. entertainment spawning magical island isa far ery from the usual landscape of the strategic survival ame (Fortnite's latest vorsion is called Fortnite: Battle Royale), and i’s probably not fornothingthat 22 ofthe stadium,developer Epic Games decided to give players abreak from shooting and ducking. “think they anticipated ‘the need fora more relaxed, artful envionment ‘early on," reasons the 29-year-old, noting how such an event straddles the nifty Venn diagram of gamers Joking forward toa lockdown movie sesh with friends, and Nolan fans suddenly warming uptothe ‘game, Whatever the math, it's working, Financial ‘Times reports an 84 per cent spike in global app ddownloacls for mobile games during the monthsof March, April and May, accompanied by a 24 per cent Jnerease in in-app purchases (think paid emoticons, virtual items or extra lives). “Not everyone will pay fora virtual hug, but truth i, isthe safest kind of hhugright now.” quips Israney MARCHES AND MEMORIALS ‘Los Angeles-based writer Jennifer Stavros, ‘who describes herself as an “old-school gamer drawn toart, death, and politics,” admits to ‘locking formidable hours on her console these past months, Besides usual suspects lke Sims, she’s developed a soft spot for life simulation ‘games such as Stardew Valley and Animal Crossing. Especially Animal Crossing, ‘Tounderstand Animal Crossing, envisionan {dyilie world where you can cultivate anything ‘rom turnips to relationships with Chistmas- vested penguins. Or squirrels, wolves, hippos, and alligators, the lists eclectic. Sceptics be warned, ‘these fully leshed-out personalities will have none of your human half-heartedness—try sneakingin adull present on their birthdays, and you'l learn ‘your lesson. Like life, the digital friendships aresolemnised slowly, over days of sn, rain and snow (the game's season cycle is synced to your hemisphere’s; over building bams or terraforming, picking oranges or planting hyacinths, or just puttering around, trading town gossip. Unlike in life, the relationships are gua potent mix of sincere and unwreckable. Ifsimple ‘gratification is not your thing, reach out to fellow- players, strangers or offline friends. Invite them ‘over on your isle fora fishing expedition, or visit ‘them when cherry blossoms have turned their town pink. For players like Stavros, the reward Is more than companionship. Its the mundane magic of carrying out low-stakes chores, over and over again, ‘routine that’s reassuringly predictable. "Growing pin ilinois, help my grandmother in her garden, rake leaves, and get my hands dirty.” she remembers. ‘With the world coming undone, the 38-year-old inteed tobe the Online video ene Forenet i has proved rest antdateto Keckdown blows Facing pege ‘oie Croeig player Reet Majumder rater ‘yl lalandLIFE BEYOND TRAVEL LIVING WITH AN IMMUNOCOMPROMISED PERSON, | COULDN'T PHYSICALLY JOIN THE BLACK LIVES MATTER PROTESTS. SO IN THE ANNIVERSARY WEEK OF MY SISTER'S DEATH, | HOSTED ONE IN THE GAME INSTEAD found meaning in the clockwork predictability her island) doesn't adequately describe the Nintendo me, whose latest version Animal justin time to deli sn souls. Since Mi has been the venue fore Unlike x Horizons do New Horizons rlea toch mulation games, push quests or end goals, but i: players from usingthe platform more Perhaps it isthisblend| productivity and el music like unobtrusiveness that hitthe sweet spot, propelling a 13.41 million sale in the reeks ofits release in Japan, where the developer headquartered. For Stavros, the cheer of by jendships didn't getin the rally that have swept America inthe wake of Geo Floyds death. “Living with an immunocompromised person, [couldn't physically join the Black Lives Matter protests. So in the anniversary week of my sister Jessie's death, I hosted one in the game Instead,” she says. Born into a family with White and Hispanic member: Ie colour, especially African also enjoyed gaming, found: community, sufused the movements g friends for the prot rays felt strongly about racial s disent only allows clght people ro commune ar once on an island, so Stavros putout the message on a local Facebook group, and hoped for the best. F up included neighbours, real o chanted 'No Justice, No‘made placards with BLM artwork, and digital ‘charactors like Diva the frog, who dropped in to ‘express solidarity. Like many others, Stavros shared isuals from the protest on her social media, aone- ‘liek conversion of momentum, virtual 10 real Notthat i's easy to distinguish the two anymore. ‘Sometimes the lines grow smokler, and sometimes, that's sweet. Like the time Stavros's brother eameto ‘see her in the game, after the siblings went through. ‘arough spel. "We weren't speaking atthe time, ‘and then one day, he visited me on my island,” says ‘Stavros, her voice lighting up. The distance between ‘his Indiana and her Southern California was still ‘thousands of kilometres, bu for their avatars Red. ‘and John, it was an easy walk to the island museum. ‘There the siblings watched fireflies glow and tarantulas skulkin the bug section, and in another ‘wing, the hulking fossils of mammoths and'T-Rexes. ‘The virtual reunion turned out pretty real. Iris ustas real, when on stuffy suburban nights Red goes stargazing with her island's resident ‘gnomes, a symbolic tribute toa friend's mother ‘who passed away. “Teouldn't goto see her fn Ilinots ‘because of COVID, so filled the island with litle gnomes,” Stavrossays, “She thought they were pretty cool.” I you happen upon the island of Nako, named after a Himalayan village but lined with lanky coconut trees, you'd probably run into its owner raf. Outside of Animal Crossing, ragtis.a PhD scholar disentangling questions of Statistics. But when Reetam Majumder can catch abreak from his varsity schedule, you will find him in the game room. One from where he plays, the average edroom-slash-game pad of a Baltimore apartment, and one that adds character to hisisland residence—"a massive attic which is beth music ‘and game room, with planos and guitars and arcade machines.” ‘Beyond the satisfaction of building himself ‘cool den, the 32-year-old admits to not “engaging, actively with the island, or its inhabitants.” Once ina while rafiqi will travel tothe plateau of flowers. ‘where tulips and lilies plunge the horizon in vivi chromaties, admiring his handiwork. For days ‘when he's feeling particularly social, there's "Rex, the chlled-out lion.” But it's not nearly enowgh {to get him cracking the island's social scene. Why does he play, then? "Honestly, i's hard to tell. ed bbe fair to look at my island activities—idling, or agenda-less hang-outs with visiting friends—asmundane,” he reflects. Some of the friends that Visit Majumder’ island are part of his offline -—a small bunch of gamers and geeks, many in costumes that refer characters from other video games. Typically they'd troop in to unwind In the easy company of overlapping fandoms. Their engagement with the ‘game is similar to Majumder’ in that they see itas neither an extension of real life commissions, nor a bubblegum escape. The island isjust a backdrop, a neutral, if pandemic-frlendly space, to simply be. “in a game lke this much of the imperus lies with the user base, so players can choose what they want out of their virtual world,” points out Majumder. And sometimes, what they want is tobe idle. cosplay cir TURNIPS AND OTHER TAKEAWAYS It's not that Nitin Rao does not see the point in building an idle island. in fact, the 24-year- old, who hosts tournaments for the another Nintendo game called Super Smash Bros., chalks up Animal Crossing as “something like life, where a lot or litte can happen. Yet philosophy can rarely match the rush of action, and his Tee-eream Island’ has been set thick aetion since it inception in March. “I's been 410 xarceoreavetisn oddly therapeutic,” admits Rao, who has even cracked game hacks like erose-pollination—mixing white with pink chrysanthemum or yellow with sd cosmos to create atropical look for his isle. Sure enough, it turned out dre lampsand glowing conversations, and none of that Bengaluru smog he hates. The conversations, Whether with Marina the octopus or Fauna the deer, ‘may hinge on deeply diverse cultural exchanges ora shared appreciation of palak paneer. But they are almost always dipped in the same inexplicable warmth of his surprise birthday party, wich the game hosted on June 2S. Unbeknown to Rao, his furry friends conjured up a cake and pinata, and even cheered his avatar into blowing out candles. It happened because I'd entered my birth date, but it was still a nice thing, and it still made me happy,” he insists. Three months without the small indulgences, it'snot hard to understand. ‘Someone who might appreciate this is American actor Elijah Wood, who back in April tweeted out toasstranger, asking about his turnips. He wasn't boing weird, only tryin ‘game ‘stalk marker’, where turnips equal stocks. Byall evidences Wood got his stocks, and the gamer, acurlous memory of turnip-picking with my, with soft-serve toboost his shares in theFrodo Baggins. Like Rao, the gamer’s takeaway that ‘day was a tad more precious than its star vegetable. When Minecraft released in the summer of 2008, ‘the world was a full 1 years away from phrases like “social distancing’ and selfbut eanyoning is alsoa big deal here. Set offon a multi-day route through remote sections ‘of this rugged isle and you'll absell down rock faces, jump into pools and scramble down rivers, bedding down in tents or hotels along the way. A seven-day adventure costs from 263,000 (approximately) aluipiani-corse. com/en ICELAND ‘Where else can yoube dropped {into a magma chamber of a dormant voleano? Iceland offers rich pickings when it comes to ‘adventure, but for an experience totop any diver’s wishlist, look tothe Thingvellir National Park. and silfra—a fissure in the earth between the North Ameriean and Eurasian tectonic plates. IW’stechnical, and you needa ‘dry suit certineation, but these are some of the clearest, most pristine glacial waters you'll ever get to glide through. From 218,000. dive.ts Lg? = MYANMAR: Bagan’s temples often steal ‘the show hete, but the remote islands of the Mergul Archipelago are equally. ‘enthralling. These specks of land have all the beauty of the neighbouring That islands, but none of ts crowds, thanks to strict regulations. Sailing trips offeran easy adventure, visiting desolate beaches, coral reefs and the villages of the elusive Moken ‘people, Local tour operators offer five day/four night packages from 84,000. ZAMBEZIRIVER ‘One ot Africa's most fabled ‘waterways promises. real sense of discovery. On a kayaking adventure, you'll encounter sedate poolsand thundering. rapids, glimpse the likes of crocs and hippos, and pass villages on the river's banks, ‘As darkness falls, you'll be back on land, huddled around campfire, then dozingoffin tent to the sounds of Africa, 1s physically demanding, but you'll be hard-pushed ta ind a ‘more intrepid adventure. Local tour operators offer five day/four night packages from $71,000. aos GUYANA Venturedeep into the ‘untamed Guyanese jungle— home to anacondas, caiman and jaguar—and learn the basics of survival training ow Bushmasters’ Jungle Survival ‘expeditions, such as nding fresh water and fishing for piranha. After five days, the ‘expedition leaders bid their ‘goodbyes, leaving you and your teammates fend for ‘yourselves with usta machete, bow and arrow, sata and little else, Erom 22,00,000. bushmasters.co.uk® sexy anno 83Faaas A i «CP aes Kae‘THE COVER STORY A RIDE BACK HOME cr A RIDE BACK HOME‘THE COVER STORY A RIDE BACK HOME Historian Dr. Simi marked with forg pre-Independence- ute through the city is , new friendships, an £8 warceornavettemaGive me the windorw seat and bun cheese omelette at Girgaum’s Café De La Paix, or the pork vindaloo at C. D'Souza in Dhobi Talao—that’s all I need” ON SOME WEEKDAYS, Dr. Simin Patel ‘would hop on BEST bus No. 126 that ferried her from Dhobi Talao to her home in Tardeo. As soon as the bus approached the Anjuman e, she'd instinetively erane het neck towards the opposite building. The object of her affection was an ornatt with a Vietorla motif, right above the signboard ‘Cruz Music Classes. “You need tobe ina busto really see the grill.” says Patel over the telephone. One day, she popped in during an evening class and found a Goan man teaching keyboard, «drums, and guitar to wee kids from the area (Gujaratis, Parsis, and Sindhis, so there’s always variety, he'd said.) “IFT had to describe Bombay toan outsider, Pd say i's historic city where you need to know where to look—and ‘when to Iook up,” smiles Patel, who conducts heritage walks under the name of Bombay walla Historical Works. Her blog, also named Bombaywalla, lists quaint and quirky vignettes on the balconies, windows, clocks, and flooring. of colonial Bombay. “Iwas lucky to ive and study among South Bombay’s historical spaces, but Inever really appreciated them until began my Ph.D on Parsis and, colonial Bombay in 2009," she admits. [Before the lockdown, her work on a book on the city’s Iran cafés meant that Patel was forever chatting up thelr owners-turned- family-friends, downing Irani chais. “Café De La Paix, a forgotten café in Girgaum, Is ike home now; all Ineed is the window seat and a bun cheese omelette. [conduct ‘works meetings there, and even celebrated a birthday. Once a stranger wanted to contact .—ho simply went fo Café De La Paix and Teft his number!” laughs Patel. It’s the sort of place where unexpected friendships are forged. “The café's owner, Gustad Irani, fs a deeply spiritual man. He tells me about significant days in our religious calendar, like the day we honour the i ‘or when we sexy 2020 69My mother sought out these places long before I did, a one woman out on her lunch breaks from the office should observe vegetarian! Foreveron the lookout for the old and the disappearing, Patel says the people she meets on the way are as endearing as the structures. Before March, she couldn't imagine a week going by without a meal at Colaba’s New Mi the most magical Goan foo fry, pork sorpotel, and apri tucked in a glamorous: the 19408," sa the kinship} Patel would notice how an in Hotel. “It serves and walking “Mango'—half lives alone, nearby.” ‘Over time, Patel discovered that she was Jing her mother's footsteps all along. “She sought out these places long before I lone woman outon her lunch breaks ‘Asa youngster, Td pester her about why she ate alone, but now I understand. By the time I discovered €. D'Souza in Dhobi Talao's Dukkar Gully, ‘my mother already had a story about how the owner Philomena had on sdher pork Vindaloo.” Philomena is no more, and Patel will always remember her siting liki i sentinel on one of the old wooden tables— “with another lady, Bella sitting statue-Iike ‘on another table"—watching the gully for hours, wordlessly, When Patel isin the area, she always picks up batasa biscuits from Paris Bakery nearby. Another historic place Patel has grown, fond of is Swadeshi Market in Kalbadevi. She once stumbled upon a shop called K. N.Ajani, which was et up in 1918 and sells rnuterackers, locks, scissors, and knives Patel unearthed delightful stories, like how their nuterackers were sought by bridal parties who wanted to test iftheir groom ‘could cut a betel but, of “sticklers who wanted to check the quality of annasby ‘cutting them.” "Few people know that the ‘janis have an inimitable design archive of letter papers, box designs, and inland letter cards.” says Patel. All you need to do is drop by, ask for the current owner Pareshbhai, and be ready to listen to stories of how his ‘grandfather switched from selling cloth at Masjid Bunder and moved to Kalbadevi because he wanted to be a part of the ‘Swadeshi movement, “Once you begin walking this city and really looking, you gravitate towards signs and stories, like I di,” smiles Patel Ginguum's Café De LaPsix(2) none of the highlights of Dr Simin Patels Opera Howe Walk. Ifyou know where tolook every nook inSouth Bombay reveal colourful histories and characters beit at‘THE COVER STORY A RIDE BACK HOME For homestay owner David Lawrence, the memories of Loafer's Corner and spicy curries never get olFor Syrian-Christian delicacies, look no further than Fusion Bay. If it’s prawn mango curry you're after, eat at Fort House”‘THE COVER STORY 4 R/DE BACK 4) FORT KOCHI'S QUIETUDE isa respite for those seeking to escape madding city ‘erowds. What's not to like about its hipster cafés, Instagram-worthy Cl nets, and narrow lanes festooned with ccolonial-era homes? ‘Buc the stories thatthe town’s lifelong: resident David Lawrence loves start in a different time. “Until the early 1990's, Fort Kochi was strictly a residential area.” Fora kid growing up in the 1960's, life ‘was organised and simple, he adds. "Four schools, a playground, and general stores ‘were a stone's throw away." It was not “until the 1970's that provisional shops. and restaurants were introduced in Fort Kochi Fam to Parade Ground in the evening, where children played cricket, football or hockey, ‘orsimply cheered for th ‘lub. The four-acre space is stil the largest ‘ground in town and was once the site of military parades and drills conducted by ese fishing, ie like his made their favourite local 64 sarcroresveueen 66 The road down St. Francis Church takes me to the Dutch Cemetery. It is avery cultured locality” the Portuguese, the Dutch and the British ‘Today, itis a barren patch, ‘To Lawrence’ rliet, not all is old haunts are lost. On Sunday, he would set out ona leisurely stroll down Princess Street, Rose Street and Burger Street—all bustling with residences of the Anglo-Indian communities. Eighties music wafted from the windows, along with the aroma of freshly made curries, Most owners have sold the properties and settled abroad, but the 63-year-old still drops by for strolls. Ithas bronze stucco walls and peeling plasters, and the structures now house cigar shops, souvenit stores, art galleries and cafés have altered it. Loafer's Corner— a popular meeting place at the confluence of Princess Steeet, Poter Celli Street and Bastion Street— is a good place to sit down, forcoffee, fresh juice and homemade cakes, after a walk. Lawrence's favourite food is his wife's eand use the home-cooked meals. “Ieome hom complain after eating out becflavours have been adapted to the Western palate," he chuckles. “I like my spices.” Of the fow joints that do justice to the region's cuisine, Lawrence loves Oceanas, a garden: ‘view restaurant which serves great seafood. Fusion Bay, known for its Syrian-Christian delicacies, is also a must visit. thas lip smacking ish preparations and good ‘vegetarian options too, Fort House, the restaurant at the eponymous family: run hotel, offers waterfront views and delectable prawn mango curry on the menu. ‘The Old Harbour Hotel, 2 300 year-old ‘building with Dutch- and Porruguese-style architecture, serves dishes made with ‘organic produce and fresh catch from the ‘sea owing to its proximity to the Chinese fishing nets Lawrence often covers the area's biggest Jancimarks on his walks. The Mattancherry Palace (Dutch Palace) lies three kilometres from his house (in Koch), but he likes to take in the double-storied structure that's home toa fine collection of murals from the The tonmiee harmonious bs of European ‘chitecare (Facing page) and cultural hereage (op). Ramayana and Mahabharata. The 16th- century St. Franels Church, believed tobe India's oldest existing European church, is also the burial site of Vasco da Gama before his remains were moved to Portugal. "The road down takes me to the Dutch Cemetery. Iisa very cultured locality.” Lawrence was one of the first residents to opena homestay when backpackers began, flocking to Fort Kochi. Delight Homestay, a250-year-old Dutch bungalow, opened its doors in 1994 to welcome European tourists, “We did not have Indian travellers, visiting at that time,” says Lawrence. When they eventually did, the town experienced tourism boom and opened more hhomestays. Luxury hotels mushroomed ‘and international fights came soon after. It ‘became a Rubicon for contemporary Kochi; locals began talking of a “before” and an “after” But no matter how much Fort Kochi changes, Lawrence says he has never tited of his seaside home.‘THE COVER STORY A RIDE BACK HOME For cyclist Arvind Chenji, the city is one long ride along hills and highways, with idlis and Irani samosas for company passion and a unique way ‘to explore his city for 38-year-old Arvind Chenji. Having lived in Hyderabad all his life—“brief stints in other cities don't count”—he'sseon it grow remarkably toreach its current tech city status. "I remember time when almost everybody cycled to commute. wasn't uncommon for ceycles to be given as dowry” smiles the cyclist. (One ofthe organisers of the Hyderabad Racing League, Chenfi has been cycling across and around Hyderabad since 2012. The hobby has opened him up to ‘this hometown in wayshe couldn't have Imagined if he were to explore iton foot, 66 sarcsoreaveses ‘orwith the speed ofa car Best of all itis cycling that has given Chenji some of his closest friendships in life. "We're a big group that goes for weekend rides and long trips, he says, adding that they're uunapolomeccaie foodies and don't think twice before making the 40-kilometre round trip to the village of Kewkoor fr flutly ldlisand crispy bhajias at Vijay Tea Centre. ‘Within Hyderabad, Chen}i& Co. regularly ceyele ro Subhan Bakery in Nampally for ‘Osmania biscuits, Ram ki Bandi near ‘Charminar for buttery masala dosas, and [Rio's at Patny Cross Road for Irani samosas. Forthose who are just beginningto cycle In Hyderabad, Chen}l recommends thatFor Hyderabad resident Arvind Chen (ah). cycling ita pation, Sha way of mecting new people. Apart fromlong tips they leo cycle to eat rant samosas (lef) and buttery dosar eat Charmin (acing pag). [Necklace Loop familiarise themselves by starting with the 10-kilometre Necklace Loop around Hussain Sagar Lake. “And ‘the 4.5-kilometre ride around K.B.R. National Park in Jubilee Hille is great ifyou ‘want to get used to hilly terrain; ithas the added benefit of being ableto step inside for birdwatching and jogging,” explains CChenji. Ifyou want to give your lungs some serious exercise, eyele up the deceptive one- kilometre Whisper Valley near Old Bombay Highway with two turns and one very steep curve, this isnot for the faintof heart, ‘warns the eyelist. And lastly, one of Chenji's favourite rides is the $0-kllometre round trip to the town of Medehal and Shamirpet village. “Go via the highway—there isnot much erosswind—and all around you is. undulating terrain and hills. We often veer offtoenterby-lanes, and even stumbled ‘upon an old ennu farm her ‘Cycling sa way of life for Chentl, something that bonds him and his family to Hyderabad irrevocably. His family is filled with cyclists, including his son who ‘Won the silver medal for a 120-Kilometee championship organised by the Cycling Federation of India in 2016, “I'mglad the bieyele fs making a comeback, and hope is becomes the new normal for commuting post-lockdown,” signs off Chenjt‘THE COVER STORY A RIDE BACK HOME cAgr BEYOND THE TAJ Guide Prashant Jain’s roadmap to secret haunts and an emerging wetlandFor a spot of peace, I visit the Roman Catholic Cemetery to see the ‘Red Taj? or the Missionaries of Charity building” 3 5 ATOUR GUIDE for aquarter ofa century, Prashant Jain grew up with the Taj Mahal’ dome pencilled onto his balcony view. He hasa story for every nook of Agra, and prided hhimselfon having seen all there i 10 his ‘hometown—until wo years ago “Lheard of a wetland behind Kalakeiti, a cultural convent 10-minute drive from the Ta" recounts 48-year-old Jain, histone stil flecked with surprise. Thanks to the area's proximity to the Yamuna, a variety of birds began coming tothe wetland, near Colonel Biodiversity Park Gate 2—“birds that you'd spot ina place like Bharatpur in Rajasthan.” Over 50 species, including the red avadavat, greater painted- snipe and scaly-breasted munia, add pops of colour tothe area. Itisalso.a temporary home to migratory birds such as black ibis, ‘and pheasant tailed jacana, The popular Te} Nature Walk, which covered a forest about half kilometre from Tajs eastern gate, is ‘now shut. So birdwatching behind Kalakrit is a weleom yncentre which isa e alternative for locals like Jain, ‘While the wetland is relatively new discovery, Jain’ love for Agra has deepened over endless strolls and drives to spots that rarely see tourists. About nine kilometres from the Taj Mahal, behind the old Bhagwan Talkies movie hall, isthe Roman Catholic Cemetery. Rumoured to have been gifted by Akbarto the Jesuit fathers in the 16th century, the grounds hold tombs of Italia, Persian, Armenian and English travellers to Agta. “Tove to go there ust to see the ‘Red Ta) the tomb of John Hessing, a former officer ofthe Maratha Army. Itisa replica of the Taj built by Hessing’s wife, Ann, 150 years after the mausoleum came up inthe city.” Jain has another favourite spot in the city. Away from the glamour of the red sandstone and white marble structures, he seeks solitude at the Missionary of Charity building, 2 10-minute drive from the Taj The simple white building with a blue ge same grounds.as a local church, opposite tt. Anthony's School in Sadar Bazar. "I's spot of serenity I'd recommend to anyone on thelr day off—even the tourists who're here for the mausoleum te stands on the: ‘of love," smiles ~SANJANARAY‘THE COVER STORY A RIDE BACK HOMEthrough Noorain Ahmed's eyes is to know the invisible cities within. Itisto see the people ‘who've been there all their lives but don't get to take up space; itinerants “who have no thikana.” She's the woman you'd stumble upon if you went ro the kitchen ofS. R Bakery in Fraser Town, helping the cook chop onions because she dropped by to chat before picking up her favourite butter cookies. Or the person you'll see at acycle repair shop wedged between two buildings in Cox Town, sketching its immigrant owner fortwo days straight, sharing chai shots between sessions. ‘When someone visits Ahmed in the city she was born in 38 years ago, she skips icons Tike Koshy’s (ve never been!”), and takes them straight to$.P. Read, along stretch of pure chaos. Scooters moving faster than light, wizened hands pulling hand- rickshaws 10 the score of hollers, rabbit holes of computer shops and recycling spaces—10 Ahmed, an architect who works on low- cost housing projects, the place smells of invention. “People here have so many stories, and I always try to buy something from them when they spare the time. Now 1 have aide Ubrary of movable pivot joints, nuts, and bolts.” she laughs. ‘Ahmed's illustration workshops around Bengaluru tap into her desire to know ‘the people and spaces that shape her ety. “Por instance, if we went to K.R. Flower Market —a fragrant, underground world ‘which works on its own zhythm — I'd ask ‘my participants to draw not what they see, but their memory of it. For someone, it could be the flowers and their sellers, for others iteould be the marker’s floor plan or the types of shops.” Everyone who visits Rengaluru visits Cubbon Park, but Ahmed urges people to show up atsiv a.m. sharp. “The thelawaalas are just setting up shop, the birdwatchers arestirring, the laughter club members emerge: on some days there is sexyaon0 1‘THE COVER STORY A RIDE BACK HOME a live music performance at the Band Stand, ‘ora photoshoot with the decked-up bride hoping to catch the golden light. Later you ‘might spot a women’s march—evenings are pretty dull compared to all that,” she smiles. ‘Asa child, Sunday trips to Cubbon Park with her parents always ended with hot-hot ‘dosas at the Airlines Hotel. Then Ahmed’ father would put on a cassette of ABBA or Yanni in their car, and they'd drive through M.G. Road or St. Marks Road. "We still love the kebabs at Kabab Korner on St. Marks Road, and their chocolate mousse. Nearby Js Truffles (formerly Ice & Spice) where we'd gofor the French fries, but really twas so ‘we could meet its long-time waiter Swami Other 20-something waiters come and go, but Swami has been theone constant and the soul of that place; he must be at least 80 now,” reminisces Ahmed. Her childhood haunts were modest and have proved timeless—Anand Sweets at Fraser Town for Jalebi and chaat, Bhagatram at Commereial Street for “the best gulab jamun,” a tiny paan shop outside Harsha Hotel in Shivaji ‘Nagar (“always magai saada for the elders and magai meetha for the kids"), London Fish & Chips at Only Place in Ashek Nagar, and a chaat shop called Shankar's Bhel House in Sindhi Colony. Bengaluru continues to inspire Ahmed in endless way in adulthood too, She walks ‘everywhere, and has favourite haunts for every mood. “Ilove dropping by Bamboo (pronounced ‘Bumboo’) Bazaar if want tobe creatively tickled, to check out its Iovely old, second-hand furniture. For ‘music and cultural events, Ihead to Bangalore International Contre (BIC)— they're all free!—or Ranga Shankara for the plays and Manju’s erisp hot sabudana wada, For a chakkar, orto meet friends, Ilove the Chitrakala Parishath college in Seshadripuram, because thoir eanteen serves simple, great food and Iget to pick up supplies from Bhaskar Art Center. There's also some mela or exhibition going on pretty 172 savccormaveniensn much throughout the yeas” Mast travellers tothe city end up at the NGMA, she says, bout few check out the free library upstairs, ‘or know that true Ranglor herb toast and passionfruit juice. When Ahmed eraves good coffee, she heads to Urban Solace which overlooks Ulseor Lake, aand serves cheese-stuffed mushrooms, “And ‘when I want to eat fish that tastes like a cloud, goto China Pear! in Koramangala: thelr Fung Cheow Fish is crispy fish tossed Incl garlic, and basil. For Mexican, [love CChinita’s tacos, nachos and churres. When miss the good o kheema samosa, look no further than Albert Bakery in Fraser Town.” To know her home better, she has a dream [project in mind: to illustrate its invisible inhabitants. “The man who sharpens our knives has been around for decades with his ‘work-cycle; he's grown old here and Ihave no idea how he gets by. There's the paperwaala who inserts leaflets every morning, the fish seller who is up before ‘the Bangloreans [want to document next. ns love its cates 30.a.m.—those are Dang her ‘latration workshops, Noorain Ahmed (Gop) encourages (facing page).