1st----The long wave equations are widely used in river and canal hydraulics and

this are the basis of much hydraulic software. They are subjected in both small
longitudinal slopes and curvatures. Their origin seems to have been earlier than the
usually cited work of Saint-Venant.
σ-Sigma
ρ-rho
η-eta
δ-delta
∂-partial derivative

/Capillary wave- surface-water wave with such a short wavelength that its

restoring force is the water's surface tension, which causes the wave to
have a rounded crest and a V-shaped trough

Before coriolis
3rd LAST---/These might typically
represent bottom friction and the surface stress due to wind shear on the water

/The Coriolis parameter ƒ, also called the Coriolis frequency or Coriolis

coefficient, is equal to twice the rotation rate Ω of the Earth multiplied by the sine
of the latitude or using the symbol phi(fi)

5th last
/ where r is the density of the water. In Eqs. (5.3) the 1rst term on the lefthand
side
represents the gravitational force per unit mass exerted through the slope of the
water surface in that component direction; the second term is the Coriolis
acceleration component; and the last term on the left represents the net
horizontal
stress per unit mass in that component direction. The three terms on the right
represent the resulting convective and local acceleration components for the
water.

Continental coastal shelf

The topography (shape of) the ocean floor, along the coast and the
mainland, also will determine the extent of the effect of the surge. Low
lying island and mainland areas that are less than a few meters above
sea level are at greater risk of inundation by the storm surge. The storm
surge and the flooding that it brings are responsible for nine out of ten
deaths during hurricanes