Crochet Saint Patrick's Day Leprechaun Gnome: The Inspiration

Crochet Saint Patrick’s Day Leprechaun Gnome
jenhayescreations.com/crochet-saint-patricks-day-leprechaun-gnome/
March 5, 2022
Get ready to make your Saint Patrick’s day all the more enjoyable with this adorable
Crochet Saint Patrick’s Day Leprechaun Gnome!
The Inspiration
The Yarn
1/25
This pattern uses Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft. It is a well-known and widely
available yarn both online and in many craft stores.
It’s a worsted weight, size 4, acrylic yarn that comes in a wide range of colors and styles
including the regular simply soft solids, collection, heathers, tweeds, ombres, brites,
stripes, paints, speckles, camos, party, marled, and several more! Truly a wide variety to
choose from for any project!
The yarn has a super soft feel with a bit of a sheen. It is a yarn that has been long loved
by many crafters because of its softness, ease of care, and wide selection of colors.
The biggest complaint that I hear about Caron Simply Soft yarn is that it can have a
tendency to split.
Honestly, I must agree that this can be the case. When I first started using the yarn I had
more trouble than I do now.
Once I learned how my hook and crochet style interacted with the yarn I rarely have this
issue. In fact, when it comes to acrylic yarns it has become one of my go-to yarns over
the years for making amigurumi.
In this design, we will be using several of the Caron Simply Soft regular solids in the
colors Dark Sage, Bone, Taupe, Off White, Chartreuse, Gold, and Pumpkin. Feel free to
substitute colors as your heart desires.
Substitutions. Any brand of worsted weight acrylic yarn should work well for making the
Crochet Saint Patrick’s Day Leprechaun Gnome but note that due to variations among
brands that the finished size of the Crochet Leprechaun Gnome may vary slightly. Also
note, if mixing yarn brands, that it’s important to ensure that the thickness of the yarns are
the same to ensure consistency in stitching.
If a worsted cotton yarn is preferred, this too should work fine.
2/25
Making the Crochet Saint Patrick’s Day Leprechaun Gnome with different sized yarns has
not been tested but would likely work fine if the hook size is changed to accommodate the
yarn choice.
The Pattern
Difficulty
Intermediate
Materials
Crochet Hook, Size E/4 (3.5 mm)

Stitch Marker(s)
Scissors
Poly-fil Stuffing
Tapestry needle
Pins
Pet slicker brush (optional – if brushing the beard) (I bought mine at my local dollar
store, but the bristles look like this for reference)
Chopstick, dowel, or something similar to help with stuffing small parts
Yarnspirations Caron Simply Soft (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 315 yds/288 m,
6 oz/170 g), Color (A) Dark Sage OR Chartreuse, used approx. 125 yds/114 m,
Color (B) Bone, used approx. 45 yds/41 m, Color (C) Taupe, used approx. 40
yds/36.5 m, Color (D) Off White, used approx. 19 yds/17 m, Color (E) Chartreuse
OR Dark Sage, used approx. 15 yds/14 m, Color (F) Gold, used approx. 5 yds/4.5
m, Color (G) Pumpkin, used approx. 14 yds/13 m
Gauge
3/25
Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) the first 8 rounds of the body measure approximately 2.75
inches (7 cm) in diameter.
Finished Measurements
Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) the Crochet Saint Patrick’s Day Leprechaun Gnome
measures approximately 10 inches (25 cm) from the tip of the toe to the top of the hat.
Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) the Large Clover measures approximately 1.25 inches (3.2
cm) wide by 2 inches (5.1 cm) tall including the stem. The Small Clover measures
approximately 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide by 1-3/8 inches (3.5 cm) tall including the stem.
Design Notes
The pattern is written in English using US crochet terminology.

The pattern is written primarily in continuous rounds, it will be helpful to place a
stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and move it up at the start of each
additional round. Portions worked in Rows will be noted.
At the end of each round/row, the number of stitches for completion is noted in
parentheses.
Further design notes and tips will be provided throughout the pattern to help aid in
construction.
Color changes in the pattern should be made during the last step of the stitch prior
to the noted color change throughout the pattern. The first stitch in the new color will
typically be a slip stitch to help eliminate the stair-step/jogging that occurs with color
change. These sl sts are written into the pattern. A regular sc can be substituted if
desired.
In the process pictures and written into the pattern the Crochet Leprechaun Gnome
is shown being made with Dark Sage as the main color (Color A) and the accent
green as Chartreuse (Color E). The other Leprechaun Gnome in the feature
pictures uses Chartreuse as the main color (Color A) with Dark Sage as the accent
green color (Color E).
Two different sized clovers are included in the pattern, allowing for additional
options when making the Leprechaun Gnome, or they can also be used separately.
Think pins, applique, barrettes, earrings, and other fun Saint Patrick’s Day fun!
Abbreviations/Stitches Used
back bar of the ch – horizontal bar on the backside of a ch

BLO – work in the back loops only
bo – bobble (described below under special stitches)
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
FLO – work in the front loop only
hdc – half double crochet
invisible finish
Rnd(s) – Round(s)
Row(s) – Row(s)
4/25
sc – single crochet (including the standing sc)
sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together (use an invisible decrease unless
otherwise indicated)
sl st – slip stitch
st(s) – stitch(s)
tr – treble crochet
[ ] / ( ) – work instructions between brackets as many times as directed
magic circle/adjustable ring
Special Stitches
Bobble (bo): A 3dcbo (three double crochet bobble) is used in this pattern. Essentially it’s
3 half-finished double crochets worked all in the same stitch that are joined at the end as
one stitch, creating a puffy stitch.
To create a 3dcbo
With the working loop on the hook:
1. Yarn over, insert hook into the next stitch,

2. Yarn over and pull up a loop (three loops on the hook),
3. Yarn over and pull through two loops (one leg made, two loops on the hook),
4. Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
5. Yarn over and pull up a loop (four loops on the hook)
6. Yarn over and pull through two loops (two legs made, three loops on the hook),
7. Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch,
8. Yarn over and pull up a loop (five loops on the hook)
9. Yarn over and pull through two loops (three legs made, four loops on the hook),
10. Yarn over and pull through all four loops. (3dcbo completed)
Let’s Make Our Crochet Leprechaun Gnome!
5/25
Nose
Make 1
Using Color (B)
Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)

Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
Rnds 4-5: Sc in each st around. (18sts for 2 Rnds)
Rnd 6: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 6 times. (12sts)
Fasten off. Firmly stuff and shape the nose. Set aside for later.
Body
6/25
Make 1
Using Color (A)

Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch 2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (24sts)
Switch to Color (B)
Rnd 20: Sl st in the first st (counts as a stitch), sc in the next 47sts. (48sts)
In the next round, the nose is added seamlessly to the body.
Left Image: The first stitch of the bottom of the nose being attached
seamlessly to the body.
Right Image: The bottom of the nose attached seamlessly to the body.
Rnd 23: Sc in the next 22sts, now join the nose to the body: With the working
loop still on the hook, insert hook into any st on the nose from the wrong side to the
right side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the right
side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the nose, yo,
pull through both loops, continue to join the nose and body sts together for the next
3sts, sc in the next 22sts. (48sts)
7/25
Left Image: The first stitch of the top of the nose being attached seamlessly
to the body.
Right Image: The top of the nose attached seamlessly to the body.
Rnd 24: Sc in the next 22sts, now join the nose to the body: With the working
loop still on the hook, insert hook into the next st on the nose from the right side to
the wrong side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from
the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the
nose, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the nose and body sts together for
the next 3sts, sc in the next 22sts. (48sts)
Firmly stuff and shape the body and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.
Rnd 34: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (40sts)

Sl st to the first st and fasten off leaving a long tail to close up the hole. Close the
hole with a tapestry needle stitching only through the front loops until the hole pulls
nicely closed, secure, and weave in the tail.
Beard
8/25
Using Color (G)
Step 1: Cut 60, 6-inch lengths of yarn (more if a fuller beard is desired, longer if a
longer beard is desired).
Image Description: The yarn strands, held together two at a time, are
looped to the body to create the beard (See Step 2).
Step 2: Holding two strands together, loop yarn lengths around the stitches onto the
body. Suggested Placement: On Rnd 21: Place 4 loops directly under the nose
and three loops to each side of these loops for a total of 10 loops. On Rnd 23:
Place 4 loops on each side of the nose for a total of 8 loops. The first loops are
placed flush with the nose on either side and then move outward in either direction.
On Rnd 25: Place 4 loops above the nose and 4 loops to each side of these loops
for a total of 12 loops. (30 total loops)
Step 3: Trim if desired. Unravel or brush yarn strands if desired.
Hand and Arm
9/25
Make 2
Using Color (B)

Rnd 5: Sc in the next 6sts, bo, sc in the next 5sts. (12sts)
Rnd 6: Sc in the next 4sts, [sc2tog] 2times, sc in the next 4sts. (10sts)
Rnd 7: Sc in each st around. (10sts)
Firmly stuff and shape the hand.
Switch to Color (A)
Rnd 8: Working in the BLO: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (12sts)
Mark the 1st st, front loop with a separate stitch marker for later reference.
Rnds 9-17: Working in both loops: Sc in each st around. (12sts for 9 Rnds)
Rnd 18: Sc in the next 3sts, leave the remaining sts unworked. (3sts)
Lightly stuff the arm leaving the last couple of Rnds unstuffed.
Press the tube flat so the top edges line up parallel with the thumb. The 3sts worked
in Rnd 18 should leave the working loop on the edge when the tube is pressed
together. If needed, add or remove sts so this is the case, ch1, and sc the two
edges together across the top. (6sts)
Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the arm to the body.
Sleeve Cuff
10/25
Image Description: The hook is inserted into the loop to create the sleeve
cuff (See Rnd 1).
Using Color (E)
Rnd 1: Using the front loops previously marked with a stitch marker in Rnd 8 of the
Hand and Arm, insert the hook from the bottom up towards the arm, and starting
with a standing sc: Sc in each st around. (10sts)
Rnd 2: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 2 times. (12sts)
Rnd 4: Sl st in each st around. (12sts)
Fasten off using an invisible finish (or alternatively a regular finish) and weave in the
ends.
Shoe and Leg (One Piece)
Starting With the Shoe
Make 2
Using Color (C)
11/25
>Design Note: The starting stitch will change several times while making the shoe. When
a new starting point is noted the other stitch marker can be removed.
Image Description: Rnds 1-11 and Rows 1-11 completed for the shoe.

Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
Rnd 7: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next 2sts, sc in the next st, [sc2tog] 2 times.
(9sts)
Rnd 8: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 4 times, sc in the next st. (13sts)
Rnd 10: Sc in the next 12sts, 2sc in the next st. (14sts)
Rnd 11: Sc in the next 3sts, leave the remaining sts unworked. (3sts)
The next portion of the shoe is worked in rows. The new starting stitch becomes the first
st of Row 1. Ch1 and turn at the end of each row.
>Design Tip: Use a regular sc decrease when working in Rows.
Row 1: Ch 1, turn, sc in the next 6sts. (6sts)

Row 2: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st. (8sts)
Rows 3-5: Sc in each st across. (8sts for 3 Rows)
Row 6: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st. (10sts)
Row 7: Sc in each st across. (10sts)
Row 8: Sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog. (8sts)
Row 11: [Sc2tog] 2 times. (2sts)
The pattern will now return to working in Rounds.
>Design Tip: Use a regular decrease for the first stitch and then return to working the
invisible decrease.
12/25
Rnd 1: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog (mark this st as the starting st), working in the edges of
the rows: sc in the edge of Row 11 back to Row 1 for 11 total sts, working in the 8
unworked sts across the toe: sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, working in the
edges of the rows: sc in the edge of Row 1 back to Row 11 for 11 total sts. (29sts)
Rnd 2: Sc in the next 12sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 9sts.
(27sts)
Rnd 3: Sc2tog, sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts,
2sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 8sts. (26sts)
Rnd 4: Sc in the next 9sts, [sc2tog] 5 times, sc in the next 7sts. (21sts)
Firmly stuff and shape the shoe leaving the bent tip unstuffed. Continue to firmly stuff and
shape the shoe as the pattern progresses.
Rnd 6: Sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 7sts.
(19sts)
Rnd 7: Sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 5sts.
(17sts)
Rnd 8: Sc in the next 8sts, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 5sts. (15sts)
Rnd 10: Sc in the next 14sts, 2sc in the next st. (16sts)
Making the Leg
>Design Tip: There is no need to cut the yarn at the end of each row. Drop and pick up
colors as needed to make the color changes.
>Design Note: The leg is going to alternate between Color (D) – Off White and Color (E)
– Chartreuse every 2 Rnds. The color changes (noted in bold when they occur) will
happen mid-row in order to keep the color change at the back of the leg when working in
the round. Alterations can be made if necessary to ensure that the color changes are not
seen at the front of the leg.
Switch to Color (D)
Rnd 11: In BLO: Sl st in the first st, sc in the next 15sts. (16sts)
Add additional stuffing up to the top of the shoe but leave the leg unstuffed as the pattern
progresses.
Rnd 13: Sc in the next st, Switch to Color (E): Sl st in the next st (counts as a st
here and throughout during a color change), sc in the next 10sts. (12sts)
Rnd 15: Sc in the next 2sts, Switch to Color (D): Sl st in the next st, sc in the next
9sts. (12sts)
13/25
Rnd 17: Sc in the next 2sts, Switch to Color (E): Sl st in the next st, sc in the next
9sts. (12sts)
Rnd 19: Sc in the next 2 sts, Switch to Color (D): Sl st in the next st, sc in the next
9sts. (12sts)
9sts. (12sts)
8sts. (12sts)
8sts. (12sts)
8sts. (12sts)
8sts. (12sts)
7sts. (12sts)
Rnd 33: Sc in the next 3sts, leave the remaining 10sts unworked. (3sts) This should
position the working loop on the side of the leg in preparation for the next step. Add
or remove sts to obtain the needed position.
Cut Color (E) and tuck the tail inside the leg. Press the tube flat so the top edges
line up horizontally with the shoe facing forwards, ch1, and sc the two edges
together across the top. (6sts)
Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the leg to the body.
Tongue of the Shoe
14/25
Using Color (C)
Looking at the front loops that were not worked in Rnd 11 when making the boot, identify
the 6sts centered at the front of the boot/leg.
Image Description: The hook is inserted into the far right loop in
preparation to make the Tongue of the Boot (See Row 1).
Row 1: Insert the hook in the far right of the 6sts determined above from the bottom
of the stitch up towards the leg. Starting with a standing sc, sc in each st across.
(6sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the last st. (8sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sl st in each st across. (8sts)
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Buckle for the Shoes
15/25
Using Color (C)
Make 2
The buckle is worked in rows to create the center portion of the buckle after which this
piece is single crocheted around in the new color to complete the buckle.
Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row.
Ch 5
Row 1: In the back bar of the ch: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch
across. (4sts)
Rows 2-3: Sc in each st across. (4sts for 2 Rows)
Switch to Color (F). Cut Color (C) leaving a long tail for later attaching the buckle to the
shoe.
Image Description: The work is turned 90 degrees with the hook inserted
into the edge of the row to make the gold portion of the buckle.
16/25
Turn the work 90 degrees (so the edge of the rows is at the top of the work), Ch 1
(doesn’t count as a st), sc across the edge of the rows for 2sts, in the corner [sc,
ch1, sc] in the same st, sc in the next 2sts, in the corner [sc, ch1, sc] in the same st,
along the edge of the rows sc for 2sts, in the corner [sc, ch1, sc] in the same st, sc
in the next 2sts, in the corner [sc, ch1, sc] in the same st.
Fasten off using the invisible finish or alternatively sl st to the first st and fasten off.
Weave in the extra tails not needed for stitching.
Top Hat
Make 1
Using Color (A)
Rnd 1: 6sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)

Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6sts)
Rnd 4: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 5
times, sc in the next st. (24sts)
Rnd 6: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st]
5 times, sc in the next 2sts. (36sts)
Rnd 8: Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st]
5 times, sc in the next 3sts. (48sts)
Rnd 10: Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next
st] 5 times, sc in the next 4sts. (60sts)
17/25
Rnd 14: In BLO: Sc in each st around. (78sts)
Rnd 31: In FLO: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the
next st] 18 times, sc in the next st. (76sts)
Rnd 33: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next
st] 18 times, sc in the next 2sts. (114sts)
Fasten off using the invisible finish (or alternatively sl st in the next 2sts fasten off)
and weave in the ends.
Hat Band
Using Color (C)
The Hat Band is worked in rows. Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row.
Ch 60
Place the top hat on the body so that it’s pulled down, resting on the nose and over the
top of the beard, and then ensure that the chain can go all the way around the hat close
to the brim with about a 1-2 ch overlap. Add or remove chains if needed.
Row 1: In the back bar of the ch: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each st
across. (59sts)
Check to see that the Hat Band is still fitting appropriately around the hat. It should be
pretty taught with the ends able to touch so they can later be seamed together.

Fasten off leaving a long tail for seaming the belt together. Weave in the starting tail.
18/25
Making the Buckle on the Hat Band
>Design Options: The Buckle for the Hat Band can be made in a couple of ways. One,
with the directions below, or two, make an additional Shoe Buckle and stitch it to the
middle of the Hat Band.
Using Color (F)
Left image: Hook inserted to begin making the buckle. (See Step 1).
Middle Image: Step 2 complete.
Right Image: The hook is inserted and the working yarn is placed
underneath the hat band in preparation for slip stitching (See Step 3).
Step 1: Find the front center of the Hat Band by folding it in half. Insert the hook
with the working yarn two sts to the right of the center stitch to begin making the
buckle.
Step 2: Sc in the next 5sts,
Step 3: Ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st here or throughout), rotate the work 180
degrees, and surface crochet up the buckle for 4sts (The first surface st is placed in
the same st as the last sc and the last surface st will be into the other edge of the
belt. Also, note that the working yarn will be underneath the belt when working the
surface sts.),
Left Image: Step 3 is complete.

Middle Image: Step 4 is complete.
Right Image: The hook is inserted and the yarn is placed underneath the
work in preparation for slip stitching (See Step 5).
19/25
Step 4: Ch 1, sc in the same st as the last surface crochet st and in the next 4sts
along the edge of the belt,
Image Description: Step 5 and the Ch 1 of Step 6 are completed and ready
to be fastened off.
Step 5: ch 1, rotate the work 180 degrees and surface crochet up the buckle for
4sts (The first surface st is placed in the same st as the last sc and the last surface
st will be into the other edge of the belt meeting up with the first sc in Step 1,
completing all four sides of the buckle. Step 1: Find the front center of the Hat Band
by folding it in half. Insert the hook with the working yarn two sts to the right of the
center stitch to begin making the buckle.
Step 2: Sc in the next 5sts,
Step 3: Ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st here or throughout), rotate the work 180
degrees and surface crochet up the buckle for 4sts (The first surface st is placed in
the same st as the last sc and the last surface st will be into the other edge of the
belt. The working yarn will once again be underneath the belt when working the
surface sts.),
Step 6: Ch 1, fasten off using the invisible finish (or alternatively sl st to the 2nd st
and fasten off). Weave in the ends.
Large Clover
20/25
Using Color (E)
Make 1
>Design Note: The Clover can be made with either 3 or 4 leaves.
Working into a magic ring (or alternatively ch 5, sl st to the first st to form a

ring and work into the ring): [Ch 3, tr, dc, tr, ch 3, sl st] 3-4 times depending on
the desired number of leaves. Each cluster of stitches creates an additional leaf.
Pull the ring taught. Do not fasten off yet, continue with the stem.
Making the Stem
Ch 8,
Working in the back bars of the ch: Sl st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each
ch across. (7sts)
Sl st into a st at the base of the clover near the stem and fasten off leaving a long
tail for stitching. Weave in the starting tail.
Using a tapestry needle weave the finishing tail towards the middle of the clover,
leaving the rest of the tail for attaching the clover to the hat.
BONUS: Small Clover
>Design Note: This clover is not found on the Crochet Leprechaun Gnome, but can be if
you choose!
>Designer Note: I played around with several clover sizes when designing the
Leprechaun Gnome, ultimately liking two sizes for him. I went with the slightly larger
clover for my Leprechaun Gnome but thought I’d share this option as well. Enjoy!
Both clovers are very similar in construction.
21/25
Using Color (E)
Make 1
>Design Note: The Clover can be made with either 3 or 4 leaves.
Working into a magic ring (or alternatively ch 5, sl st to the first st to form a

ring and work into the ring): [Ch 2, dc, hdc, dc, ch 2, sl st] 3-4 times depending on
the desired number of leaves. Each cluster of stitches creates an additional leaf.
Pull the ring taught. Do not fasten off yet, continue with the stem.
Making the Stem
Ch 6,
Working in the back bars of the ch: Sl st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch
across. (5sts)
Sl st into a st at the base of the clover near the stem and fasten off leaving a long
tail for stitching. Weave in the starting tail.
Using a tapestry needle weave the finishing tail towards the middle of the clover,
leaving the rest of the tail for attaching the clover to the hat.
Assembly
22/25
Pin all the pieces together to determine the desired placement for the entire Leprechaun
Gnome and stitch securely into place using a tapestry needle.
General placement and stitching suggestions:
Hat: The hat is pulled down over the body so it rests on the top of the nose and
covers the top of the beard. If desired, invisibly tack the hat to the body in several
places just above the brim. Alternatively, the hat can be left removable.
Hat Band: Stitch the two ends of the hat band together to form a loop. Place the
band onto the hat just above the brim with the buckle centered over the nose. If
desired, the band can then be secured to the hat.
23/25
Arms: The arms are attached on either side of the body about an inch (2.5 cm)
away from the edge of the beard with the top front corner of the arm at
approximately Rnd 21 of the body and angled down so the back corner rests at
about Rnd 17. The thumbs on the hands should be facing to the front. Look at the
Leprechaun Gnome from the front to ensure that the arms look even before
stitching. Stitch the arm to the body along the top of the arm.
Buckles for the Shoes: Attach the Shoe Buckles just under the tongue of the shoe,
stitching in the middle brown section (on the back side of the piece) so that the
outer gold edges of the buckle remain detached.
Legs: Pin the legs side by side at about the bottom center of the body. Attach the
leg to the body along the top edge of the leg and along each side of the leg for a
couple rows so the top bit of the leg remains flush against the bottom of the body.
Clover: If using, stitch the center of the clover to the hat in the desired place,
leaving the leaf edges and stem loose.
24/25
Copyright and Use Policy
This pattern and its photos are copyright of Jennifer Hayes (Jen Hayes Creations) and
are for personal, non-commercial use only. You may not copy, sell, republish, distribute, or
translate my patterns, photos, or tutorials in part or whole. Share this pattern on social
media by using the social sharing buttons or a link to the pattern. You are welcome to sell
any finished items produced from this pattern. Please credit Jen Hayes Creations as the
designer and include a link to the pattern listing if selling the finished piece online. Thank
you!
25/25

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Crochet Saint Patrick's Day Leprechaun Gnome: The Inspiration

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Crochet Saint Patrick’s Day Leprechaun Gnome

If a worsted cotton yarn is preferred, this too should work fine.

Crochet Hook, Size E/4 (3.5 mm)

The pattern is written in English using US crochet terminology.

back bar of the ch – horizontal bar on the backside of a ch

With the working loop on the hook:

1. Yarn over, insert hook into the next stitch,

Let’s Make Our Crochet Leprechaun Gnome!

Using Color (B)

Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)

Using Color (A)

Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)

Switch to Color (B)

In the next round, the nose is added seamlessly to the body.

Rnd 34: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (40sts)

Hand and Arm

Using Color (B)

Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)

Firmly stuff and shape the hand.

Switch to Color (A)

Using Color (E)

Shoe and Leg (One Piece)

Starting With the Shoe

Using Color (C)

Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)

>Design Tip: Use a regular sc decrease when working in Rows.

Row 1: Ch 1, turn, sc in the next 6sts. (6sts)

The pattern will now return to working in Rounds.

Making the Leg

Switch to Color (D)

Tongue of the Shoe

Buckle for the Shoes

Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row.

Using Color (A)

Rnd 1: 6sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)

Using Color (C)

Row 3: Sc in each st across. (59sts)

Using Color (F)

Left Image: Step 3 is complete.

>Design Note: The Clover can be made with either 3 or 4 leaves.

Working into a magic ring (or alternatively ch 5, sl st to the first st to form a

Making the Stem

BONUS: Small Clover

Both clovers are very similar in construction.

>Design Note: The Clover can be made with either 3 or 4 leaves.

Working into a magic ring (or alternatively ch 5, sl st to the first st to form a

Making the Stem

General placement and stitching suggestions:

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