Collection Review: Key

Items – Women's Cut &

Sew S/S 22
Jerseywear evolves in sophisticated new directions, with
versatility key. Elevated #workleisure and luxe partywear
drive the category forward

Charlotte Casey
10.27.21 · 6 minutes

Proenza Schouler
Market analysis
The jersey category has enjoyed major growth during the pandemic and remains a
key category, increasing by 2ppts YoY to hold 19% of the S/S 21 apparel mix across
the UK and US at retail. It shows signs of slowing, however, as its performance at
retail sees a slight decline YoY following a strong S/S 20
Designers respond by evolving the category with more versatile, glamorous
pieces, signalling a move away from comfy house-wear
Create transseasonal # workleisure looks that offer greater value for sustainable
and cost-conscious consumers. Add luxe hi-lo styling and better quality fabric to
layering pieces
Partywear gains momentum, providing sophisticated pieces that can be styled in
formal and casual looks for # highlowdressing. With an expectation of increased
travel, create looks for # beyondthebeach that can move from day to night

Saint Laurent

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Test or invest
Back styles that can be adapted for multiple uses, such as the elevated work leisure dress. Timeless items that can move between day and night, casual or formal, offer
greater exibility and value. The everyday tee is a wardrobe essential; use pared-back detailing and premium jersey qualities for longevity. Give the summer sweatshirt a
colourful print update that will evolve the cosy comfortwear looks we have become used to.

Test Invest

Jonathan Simkhai Saint Laurent Courreges Hermès Isabel Marant

01 02 03 04 05
Multipurpose dress Second-skin top Party top Smart tee Statement sweatshirt

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The statement sweatshirt
Now a wardrobe essential, give the sweatshirt a celebratory upgrade via #joyfulexpression prints and
orals that tap into #thegreatoutdoors and upbeat graphics. For youthful styles, opt for cropped lengths
and team with lower waistlines, as #noughtiesnostalgia continues to gain ground. Keep the preppy
#clubhouse trend on your radar for #resortsport looks.

#thegreatoutdoors oral #joyfulexpression prints #positiveslogans Sportif crops #comfyparty

Moncler 8 Palm Angels Isabel Marant Rebekka Ruetz BOSS Cynthia Rowley

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The multipurpose dress
As the #anyoccasiondress becomes more popular in the wake of the pandemic and the dress category as a
whole shows an uptick, offer the jersey dress in exible styles that are comfortable and elevated. Use longer
silhouettes in interlock constructions for smart #workleisure iterations and #gardenparty prints. Update
silhouettes using #cutout details, draping, #ruching, decorative hardware and #fringing.

#anyoccasiondress #elevatedutility Asymmetric neckline Resort pattern Second-skin fabrics

Jil Sander Max Mara Jonathan Simkhai Etro Shanghai

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The party top
The easy, versatile top has been given a sophisticated revamp. Elegant glamour is the overriding message
this season, driven by the 1990s, noughties and lingerie trends. Create adaptable pieces that will work with
different out ts and looks in #neutrals or #noir shades. Explore #corset styles, off-the-shoulder,
halterneck and asymmetric necklines.

#asymmetric #brightpairings Off-the-shoulder silhouette #halterneck  #corset

No. 21 MSGM Burberry Courreges Fendi by Versace

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The second-skin top
While comfort remains an important driver for jersey tops, expand the offer and create versatile pieces
that can be layered under jackets, worn alone and adapt from day to night in mock- and crew-neck styles.
Work in sophisticated sheeny handles in line with our Connected trend and explore fabric manipulation
such as #draping to match the dressier tone of the season. Seek more sustainable bres such as FSC-
certi ed cellulosics, recycled and bio-based options.

#ruching Lustrous nishes #joyfulexpression prints Soft pastels Elevated styling

Saint Laurent Coperni Etro Loewe Paris

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The smart tee
Team T-shirts with more formal items, as designers explore #highlowdressing for a #smartenup effect. Use
layering and optimistic colour for breezy vacation and #beyondthebeach wear. Emulate luxe knitted tees
via sustainable interlock and double-faced constructions to create transseasonal looks that go further
than #twomilewear to give the humble T-shirt greater longevity.

#highlowdressing #elevatedutility #smartenup #beyondthebeach #layering

Adeam Moncler 4 Hyke Hermès Isabel Marant Shanghai

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Action points
Create versatile pieces such as
the #anyoccasiondress
The dress was one of the most
prevalent items on the catwalk, ticking
the box for an easy-to-wear piece that
can be adapted to many different uses.
Look to styles that offer comfort while
still feeling elevated.
Update dresses via details and fabric,
such as # cutouts, neutral colour and
sheeny finishes, offering ways to tap
into partywear with the option of using
for work or everyday
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Keep sustainability on the
agenda and create pieces with
longevity
Sustainable materials are important to
consumers, so invest in better quality
fabrics. Explore options such as
recycled, cellulosics and bio-based
synthetics alongside GOTS and GRS
recycled cotton.
Consider product lifecycles, longevity
and circularity, upgrade sweatshirts and
tees using double-faced and interlock
fabrics, or use print to add value
Create engaging pieces in line
with the #joyfulexpression
trend
Whether for a vacation or # staycation,
design pieces in warmer and brighter
colours that explore an escapist mood.
Driven by MSGM and Isabel Marant,
use vibrant colour to revitalise
basic items. In addition, our
# fantasyresort story
showcases statement prints for high-
energy dopamine dressing
Elevate items using nature-
inspired colour and print
As the garden party trend continues to
develop as a print story, choose bold
# florals to update tops, dresses and
leggings, and explore the # gardenparty
hashtag.
For premium basics, develop more
utilitarian pieces in sportif
transseasonal looks and hues such as
# olivegreen and luxe # oliveoil
Methodology

WGSN e-commerce data

Analysis based on women's apparel, footwear and accessories products collected
from WGSN's proprietary retail e-commerce data platform during the S/S 20 and
S/S 21 retail seasons in the US and UK
Please note, some retailers are excluded to ensure like-for-like calculations and
to avoid inflated product counts due to the acquisition of new retailers on the
platform
Numbers may fluctuate as we recategorise to help clarify ambiguous/new
products or if retailers refactor their websites

Definitions :
Assortment mix (%): products in each category divided by overall apparel
products available during the specified period
New-in: the products that are newly added to the retail website within the
timeframe selected
Markdown (%): products in markdown divided by overall products available
during the specified period in each given department or category
Out-of-stocks (%): the proportion of products that have 50% or more SKUs out of
stock (OOS)
Percentage point (ppts): a percentage is the proportion of a set of products over a Tory Burch

larger set. An example is new-in trousers over new-in apparel mix. A percentage
point computes the arithmetical difference between percentages; going from 40%
to 44% is a 4 ppts increase
YoY: year-on-year