nd

2 Year(IV) B.Tech. Lecture

Textile Manufacturers Dept. VJTI
Fabric Manufacturing Technology
(R4TT2008T)
By
Naveeen Kumar Jha
 Objectives
• To apprise students about the fabric forming
process
• To apprise students about the shedding
systems used for fabric formation
 Outcome
After completing the course, students will be
able to:
1. Identify the various parts of different Dobbies.
2. Explain the mechanism of various dobbies
3. Explain the importance of card punching and peggings
4. Identify the various parts of Jacquard.
5. Explain the mechanism of Jacquard
6. Explain the concept of weft patterning
7. Describe the working of automatic looms.
 Modules
1. Dobby: Classification of dobby, Mechanisms of
dobby. Electronic dobby; Working principle,
machine parameters, microelectronics design
features, drive arrangement, systems for pattern
data transfer and design development.
2. Jacquard: Classification, mechanism and design
developments. Electronic Jacquard systems,
selection system, pattern data, transfer and
management
 Contd…
3. Weft Patterning: Significance of weft patterning. Advantages
and disadvantages of Drop-box and Circular-box motion,
Mechanisms of Pick-&-Pick and Pick-at-Will.
4. Automatic looms: Limitations of ordinary loom, Pre-requisites
for successful installation of automatic looms, essential features,
types and their comparison. Weft feeler, electrical and
electronic weft feeler, pirn changing looms with reference to
automatic looms. Shuttle changing loom, non-stop shuttle
change, Temple cutters and shuttle eye cutter. Mechanism and
electrical warp stop motions, multi-shuttle weft replenishment,
Centre weft fork, center selvedge motion.
 Reference Books
• Talukdar M. K. &Ajgaonkar D. B and Wadekar,
Sizing-Materials, Methods and Machines
• Talukdar, Sriramulu and Ajgaonkar, Weaving
Machines Mechanism & Management,
Mahajan Publishers.
• Princeples of weaving by Marks and Robinson
• Handbook of weaving by Sabit Adanur
• Fancy Weaving Mechanism by KT Aswani
 Dobby
Introduction:
1. Its mechanisms are comparatively more complicated than cam systems.
2. They usually have higher initial and maintenance costs. They are
normally built to control up to 30 harnesses.
3. Picks per repeat are virtually unlimited in dobby shedding.
4. Due to their complexity, dobby mechanisms are more liable to produce
fabric faults than cam systems.
5. Basically there are two separate functions in a dobby mechanism: 1)
Power Transmission, 2) Connection and disconnection of the harnesses
to and from the power source at the proper time.
6. Dobby mechanisms can be classified according to lift, no of heald shaft,
position of heald shaft, driving of heald shaft and shed.
 Contd…
1. According to lift
▪ Single lift
▪ Double lift
2. According to figuring(no. of heald shaft)
48’s, 36’s 24’s, 20’s, 16’s, 12’s
3. According to the position of heald shaft
• Vertical
• Horizontal
4. According to the driving of heald shaft:
• Positive
• Negative
 Contd….
5. According to shed:
• Bottom close shed
• Centre close shed
• Semi open shed
6. According to number of jack lever:
• Single jack lever
• Double jack lever
 Single Lift Dobby
• It forms a bottom closed shed
• The fabrics resemble the hand loom fabrics, since
the beat up is done on closed shed.
• Each hook of this dobby controls a single heald.
• It is driven from the crank shaft of the loom
• Time required to produce a shed is more in
comparison to double lift dobby
• More starin is put on warp line
• There high chance of wear and tear.
 Double Lift Dobby
• It forms an open shed
• It produces corrugated fabrics, the reason behind
this is that beat up is done in crossed shed.
• Double hooks in this dobby control a single heald
• It is driven from the bottom shaft of the loom
• Speed of loom is high
• Less strian is put on warp line
• Less wear and tear
 Negative Dobby Shedding

• In negative dobby shedding, the harnesses are

lifted by a spring motion. A schematic
diagram of a negative dobby mechanism has
been shown in the following figure.
Keighley Dobby
 Contd…
• The previous figure shows the schematic of a
basic double lift, negative dobby mechanism in
which a baulk and pairs of feelers, pegs, hooks
and knives are used for each harness.
• Single lift dobbies, which have become obsolete,
had only one knife per harness.
• The double lift dobby’s cycle occupies two picks
and therefore most of its motions occur at half
the loom speed which allows higher running
speeds
 Contd…
• All modern negative dobbyies are double lift
dobbies.
• Negative dobbies are simpler than positive
dobbies.
• As per the reference of figure the knives (K1
and K2) reciprocate in slots along a fixed path
• They complete one reciprocation every two
picks
 Contd…
• When a peg in the lag forming part of the
pattern chain raises the right end feeler F1,
the rod C is lowered which in turn causes the
hook to be lowered and engaged with the
knife K1,.
• Then, the knife K1 is moved to the right
carrying the hook H1 with it.
• This motion is transmitted to D on the baulk
(AB).
Climax Dobby
 Contd..
• Working principle of Climax Dobby is quite
similar to the Keighley Dobby.
• Difference is in number of Jacks and Levers.
• In climax dobby two jacks are used to lift a
heald shaft while in Keighley Dobby a single
jack is used to lift a heald shaft.
• C-links and S-lever are not used in Keighley
Dobby but in Climax Dobby.
Positive Dobby
Knowels Dobby
 Contd...
• In positive dobby shedding, springs are not used to lower
the heald shafts.
• In positive dobby motions happen in more controlled
way.
• Gearing mechanism is used to raise and lower the heald
shaft.
• When middle gear comes in contact with top gear, middle
gear starts rotating in clockwise direction and heald shaft
moves up.
• While when middle gear comes in contact with bottom
gear, middle gear starts rotating in anticlockwise direction
and heald shaft move down.
 Contd...
• There is chain of cylinder which is made as per
our design pattern, and decides engagement
of middle gear with top or bottom gear
• A specific gears are used for the gearing
mechanism.
Positive Dobby
 Numericals
• You have one piece of fabric whose length is 1m and width is also 1m.
• Count of warp is 40Nm, count of weft is 25Tex.
• EPI= 25, PPI=25
• Warp crimp=5%, weft crimp=5%
The weight of one meter of warp yarn will be =
25/1000=0.025gram
Actual length of the warp yarn in the fabric =(1+0.05)meter=1.05meter
Weight of 1.05 meter of warp yarn=1.05x0.025=0.0262
Number of warp yarns in 1sqm of the fabric= 25ends in one inch= 25/2.54
ends per cm= (25/2.54)*100=984.2 ends per meter
Weight of warp yarn= 984.2x0.0262=25.78gram
Similarly weight of weft yarn can be calculated and it will come as=25.78gram
GSM of the fabric= Weight of warp yarn+Weight of weft yarn=51.56gram
3/1-2/1-1/1

A B

A
 Cam dobby
• In this dobby, back and fourth motion of knives
occurs with the help of pair of cams.
• In Ruti Cam dobby knives are mounted on the
crank shaft.
• In 360o rotation of crank shaft, cams also rotate
with same angle but since two cams are mounted
opposite to each other so if two knives are used
for two respective cams, shed formation will be
twice in one complete rotation of crank shaft
• Knives are pushed by cams but pulled by springs.
• A part wise diagram has been shown below
 Contd…
• In the diagram C1 and C2 are cams.
• K1 and K2 are knives
• H1 and H2 are hooks
• S1 and S2 are the sliders for the heald shaft
• J is the jack
• Springs for knives has not shown in the
diagram.
Ruti Cam Dobby
 Rotary Dobby
• In this dobby rotary motion is converted into linear
motion.
• Dobby is comprised of mainly 4 units mentioned
below
i. Main drive with modulator (A modulator is an
electronic circuit that superimposes a low-frequency
(information) signal onto a high-frequency (carrier)
signal for the purpose of wireless transmission) and
complementary cams
ii. Drive block with cam units for harness frame motion
iii. Control unit with magnet block for transformation of
electronic signals.
iv. Electronic control box
 Contd…
• In rotary dobby control is composed of
magnet bar with 20 or 28 electromagnets.
• Controller is used to activate the
electromagnets and then
• Control functions of the weaving machine get
started as per the weave data
 Functions of controller
• Leveling of harness frames in lower, middle
and upper shed
• Individual lifting of each harness frame
• Separation of warp threads
 Operation principle
• Rotary dobby is operated on rotary principle which depends
on two elements: modulator and cam unit
- Work of cam unit is to convert irregular rotary motion into
linear motion which is required to drive harness frame.
- Crank mechanism is an essential element which encloses a
cam with ball bearings
- A ratchet placed on the outside of the cam connects it with
the driver, and 180 degree rotation of the cam produces
lifting motion.
- Ratchet is controlled according to the pattern by control
unit
Diagram for the mechanism of the motion of lifting jack has
been shown below
 Electronic Dobby
• Rotary dobby is also part of electronic dobby
• In the electronic dobby pattern are
transferred using computer aided
design(CAD)/ computer aided
manufacturing(CAM) software which works on
the basis of programming system.
• Program is written to select the heald shaft.
 Jacquard Shedding Mechanism
Introduction:
• This is one of the most renowned shedding
mechanism since 19th century.
• It was invented by a French Weaver Joseph
Marie Jacquard probably in 1804
• It is used to weave a fabric intricate design
 Classification
• Single lift single cylinder jacquard
• Double lift single cylinder jacquard.
• Double lift double cylinder jacquard
• Electronic jacquard
Single Lift Single Cylinder Jacquard
• Single Lift Single Cylinder Jacquard is the simplest form
of Jacquard attached with weaving loom.
• In this machine single cylinder is used which makes
two motion, one around its axis and other around its
link.
• First motion is the rotary motion while second motion
is swinging motion.
• By rotary motion, cylinder changes card position as
per weavers’ design.
• By swinging motion, cylinder selects the needle whose
respective hooks are required to be lifted and so the
warp set.
 Contd…
• In SLCSJ, one needle controls one hook so 400
end jacquard will have 400 hooks and 400
needles.
Double Lift Single Cylinder Jacquard
 Contd…
• If SLSCJ has been understood DLSCJ is easy to
understand.
• In DLSCJ one needle control two hooks.
• These two hooks are raised by two separate knives.
Motion of knives happens in reverse phase i.e. when
one knife of first hook moves up 2nd knife of second
hook will move down.
• If we want same warp to be lifted in 2nd pick, 2nd hook
must be engaged with its correspond hook but while if
we want the same warp not to be lifted in the 2nd pick,
2nd hook must be disengaged from its correspond
hook.
 Contd…
• Now question is how it can be done?

• Part 1 of the following diagram explains this mechanism in better way .

K2 K1

h2 h1

Part 1 Part 2
• In the above diagram, focus on part 1.
• We see the hook one(h1) has been raised by the corresponding
knife 1(k1) and the needle of h1 is inserted in the hole of cylinder.
• If we want to raise h2 in the next pick it must be engaged with k2
and the needle must be inserted in the hole of the cylinder and if
it is the scenario, there is no problem.
• But if we do not want to raise h2 for the 2nd pick, in that case hole
will not be available for the needle cylinder in its forward swinging
will push the needle in forward direction h2 will be away from k2
while bottom part of h1 will be away from k1 but top hooked part
will remain engaged with k1 and we will get the scenario of part 1
in the diagram
• And thus h1 will come down by downward movement of k1 while
h2 will remain in its position irrespective of upward motion of k2
and our desire will get fulfilled.
Double Lift Double Cylinder Jacquard
• In DLDCJ half needle is controlled by one
cylinder while other half is controlled by next
cylinder.
• It means if there are 16 needles in jacquard
8(1,3,5,7,9,11,13,15) may be controlled by
one cylinder, other half may be controlled by
next cylinder.
• Swinging of both cylinder will happen in
opposite phase.
 Electronic Jacquard

Functional Principle of Electronically Controlled Jacquard

 Contd...
• This Jacquard is contolled electronically.
• Floppy disc can be used as data carrier
• Data can also be used through a network
system.
 Contd...
Stage 1:
• Hook b in its uppermost position has placed
retaining hook (d) against electromagnet (h).
• This magnet is activated according to pattern,
briefly retains retaining hook (d) and prevents
hook (b) from hooking onto retaining hook
 Contd...
Stage 2: Hook b and c follow the knives g and f
moving up or down respectively. Double roller a
offsets the motion of hooks b and c.
Stage 3: By the rising motion of knife g, hook c
has placed retaining hook e against
electromagnet h.
According to the pattern, the magnet is not
activated, causing hook c to catch on to
retaining hook.
Stage 4: Hook c is caught on retaining hook e. Hook
b follows the rising knife f and thereby lifts the
harness cord.
Stage 5: Hook c remains hooked onto retaining
hook e. Hook b has placed retaining hook d against
electromagnet h by the rising motion knife f.
According to the pattern, magnet is not activated,
causing hook b to be heald by retaining hook.
 Contd...
• Stage 6: Hooks b and c remain held by
retaining hooks d and e. Knives f and g are in
rising and descending motion, respectively.