Pattern-alteration

Fitting Technology
Introduction:

Fitting is an important part that makes a garment perfect. The art of garment fitting requires skill and
patience. When standard fit is done, garments will look better and feel more comfortable. Making
apparel which really fits is one of garment making’s greatest challenges and crucial successes. No
matter how lovely the fabric, how fine the garment design, or how expert the sewing, the results are
disappointing if the garment fits poorly. Perfect measurements are the key of good fit.

Good fits are influenced by many things such as:

 The current fashion look,

 The hang and stretch of the fabric,
 The amount of ease preferred and
 Figure size and type.

Pattern Alteration:

Pattern alteration means customize patterns to fit according to body shape. For example, shortening
arms or lengthening a top. Patterns are prepared according to standard measurement chart which
are based on average sizes. After measuring the human body and adding needed ease, compare this
measurement to the pattern’s measurement.

All commercial patterns are made to standard average body measurements for each figure type or
size. Companies spend a lot of time and money inviting the public to take part in measurement
surveys, eager for their patterns to fit as many people as possible. In reality, of course, we are all
different – but standardizing measurements is a necessary process for the industry.

Of course, if your measurements are correct, you are ready for the next step. If not, you will need to
customize your pattern to create a more personalized fit – and choosing the correct size will help
enormously. It is best to purchase the size that most closely fits your bust and hip measurements.
This is because, as a rule, size alterations are easier to make in other areas. Creating and altering
patterns is a vast subject area with varying degrees of simple and complex methods involved.

Pattern adjustment or alteration is often necessary to achieve good fit in a garment. Once the fabric
is cut, however, fitting adjustments are limited to existing darts and seam allowances. Before cutting
the garment, check the pattern fit and alterations according to the correct body measurement that
will eliminate many problems form fabric. Therefore, fitting problems should be solved before the
garment is cut by making needed changes in the pattern.

In pattern alteration, sustain the pattern outline wherever possible. To get the best result, using
slash and spread or fold method and the result is a permanently altered pattern that can be used
repeatedly.

A pattern can be altered and adjusted three ways:

1. By folding out excess fullness to make an area smaller.
 2. By slashing and spreading to increase dimensions or slashing and overlapping to
decrease dimensions.
3. By redrawing darts or seamlines.
Importance of Pattern Alterations:
1. To get a perfect fit on your figure, garment is cut after the pattern is altered.
2. If the pattern is altered before the fabric is cut, there will be no adjusting in the final fitting.
3. There is no danger of wasting expensive fabric and spoiling the garment.
4. Each adjustment necessary in the flat pattern for saving time and avoid ripping later.
5. Sometimes alterations are essential to get perfect pattern.

Keep the records of pattern alterations and their effectiveness; it is the way to perfect individual
requirements.

Patterns Alteration Standards:

1. Original grainlines are saved.
2. Patterns are kept in balance and proportion.
3. Change is created only where needed and is not obvious.
4. Designer’s lines are protected.

Basic Rules or Techniques of Pattern Alteration:

Traditionally, alteration of garment patterns is an essential step in producing attractive and
accurately fitting clothing from patterns which already exist. There have been numerous publications
by tailoring experts on how to alter garment patterns for different figure forms. Alterations can be
done by using measurements, taken by a tape measure, and incorporating them onto a paper
pattern using the slash, seam, or pivot methods.

Basic pattern alteration techniques are given below:

1. All similar pieces must be altered to correspond with the alterations on the major piece.
2. Additions or extensions must be made by taping an extension strip to the edge involved.
3. Altered patterns must have the same character as the original pattern piece.
4. Correct movement on altered pattern to give the altered line the same character as the
original line.
5. The altered pattern must be properly flat, as like the original pattern piece.

There are also some methods for pattern alteration:

1. Pattern alteration for flattering the figure
2. Pattern alteration for non-standard figures
3. Pattern alteration with experimental methods
4. Pattern alteration using computer-aided design (CAD) programs

Principles of Pattern Alteration:

1. A far as possible make changes within the pattern by slashing and spreading or slashing and
lapping. Patterns can also be altered by redrawing the edges of the pattern. (This is the
 method adopted for altering garments at the time of fitting.) But the first method is by far
the best in altering paper patterns.
1. To preserve the original grain line, make all slashes and folds parallel or perpendicular to the
grain line (to center front line, center back line etc.).
2. Where there are darts, make changes between the tip of the dart and the outside edge.
3. If an alteration in length is made along one edge of the pattern, take care to make an
identical alteration in the adjoining edge. For example, if back shoulder seam is shortened
the front shoulder seam should also be shortened.
4. When tucks or darts are used for making a pattern smaller, remember that the width of
these should be just half the amount to be removed.
5. When decreasing or increasing the width of pattern pieces, if only half the pattern (half back
or half front) is used, subtract or add only one fourth of the total adjustment to be made.
For example, if waist measurement has to be increased by one inch, add ¼” to the half back
pattern and the same amount to the front pattern. If only a front or back section needs
adjustment, add or minus half the amount of the adjustment to the respective section.
6. When the pattern alteration involves slashing and spreading, it is necessary to keep a sheet
of paper beneath and to pin or stick to it the spread-out parts so that they will thereafter
remain in position. On spreading or lapping after slashing, some edges of the pattern
become jagged. These must be trimmed after drawing the new seam lines.

Pattern Alterations for Basic Fit Problems:

Most of common fitting problems are increase or decrease in height and width. Alterations help to
increase the life of the garment.

How to Check the Altered Fit?

Before cut the fashion fabric checks the pattern fit, only the basic parts of the garment together.
Take a helping person who helps you to check the fit of the garment. Otherwise, you stand in front
of a full-length mirror. Use the following checklist that helps you, if further alterations or minor
fitting is needed for a good fit.

1. Adequate wearing ease is available for sitting, moving and bending.

2. Armhole seams curve smoothly over the end of shoulder.
3. Crosswise grain lines are parallel to floor.
4. Crotch depth is right, neither too low and baggy nor too tight and binding.
5. Darts point to the fullest part of the curve.
6. Hemline is even.
7. Hipline fits smoothly.
8. Lengthwise grain lines, side seams, centre front and centre back seams hang straight or at
right angles to the floor.
9. Pant legs hang smoothly and do not restrict any part of the legs.
10. Pants hang smoothly from the waist. The waistband fits the body comfortably and stays in
place when bending and sitting.
11. Pants have no pulls or excess fabric across the front or back crotch level.
12. Shoulder seam length comes to end of shoulders.
13. Sleeves are comfortable with no wrinkles.
14. The length of the garment is becoming.
Conclusion:
Body contour, posture, body proportion and symmetry affect the fit of clothing. Patterns are
designed for an average symmetrical body shape, with standard posture and body proportions. Very
few individuals are the same size and shape as this standard model; therefore, pattern alterations
need to be made before garment pieces are cut and fitting adjustments are also made during the
assembly process.

References:

Clothing Appearance and Fit: Science and Technology by J. Fan, W. Yu and L. Hunter

How to Use, Adapt, and Design Sewing Patterns by Lee Hollahan

Dressmaking: The Complete Step by Step Guide to Making Your Own Clothes by Alison Smith

http://oaktrust.library.tamu.edu/bitstream/handle/1969.1/87404/pdf_2272.pdf

https://archive.org/stream/std12voctddem2006tnbooks/std12voctddem2006tnbooks_djvu.txt

http://fashionelongation.com/importance-principles-pattern-alteration/

Dart Manipulation Techniques for Flat Patterns

What is Dart in Clothing?

Darts are a dressmaker’s punctuation marks. It is an essential part of garment construction. Darts are
folds and sewn into fabric to take in ease and provide shape to a garment, especially for a woman’s
bust. Darts help in shaping the fabric to fit the body and thus provide comfort to the wearer. They
provide fullness to natural body curves. Darts are very rarely used for decorative purposes like
providing a design line. The fitting, marking, stitching and pressing of darts should be done
accurately. In this article I will discuss details on dart manipulation techniques for flat patterns.

To create new designs for garments, it is specially used for ladies garments. It save fabric wastage
and also use to remove excess fabric. Darts are needed to turn two-dimensional shapes into three-
dimensional shapes and to fit clothes closely to the body.
Application of Dart Manipulation – Introduction to design patterns
The technique is applied when the dart of working patterns (bodice, skirt, sleeve, or any working
pattern) are relocated in the process of creating design patterns. To create a design pattern, the
design is analyzed first to identify the location of the dart or equivalent before manipulating the
pattern.

The following design projects illustrate the beginning of pattern manipulation, and each process
should be completed in the order given because each will help to prepare the pattern maker or
designer for more advanced work. Both artistic and technical skills are required to successfully
create design patterns.

Different Darts Locations:

Darts can be in a number of different places on a bodice to alter its style.
Completing the Dart:
The dart can be finished one of two ways:

1. Trim dart excess to within 1/2 inch of the seam line before stitching the dart.

2. Fold the dart excess under and stitch on the seam line.
Dart Manipulation Techniques:
Dart manipulation is one of the most important techniques when it comes to pattern drafting.
Fashion designer must identify the location of the dart before manipulating the pattern and how
manipulate the dart. Dart manipulation mainly starts with a basic slope, which they then convert
into their stylish designs. Darts become princess seams, gathers, tucks or cowls. New styles lines
are added or moved; necklines are reshaped.

There are three dart manipulation techniques in flat patterns. These are suitable for manipulate
dart to any location. The slash and spread or pivot method mostly use to transfer darts to the
bust, neck, armhole or anywhere you want!

1. Pin and pivotal dart transfer technique.

2. Slash-spread transfer and overlap technique
3. Dart equivalent technique

1. Pin and Pivotal dart rotation technique:

Pattern designers use pivoting methods to make fashion changes. They move darts or add
fullness by anchoring the basic pattern with a pin and moving the pattern in, out, and around.
The pattern swings back and forth like the pendulum on a grandfather clock. Use this pivoting
motion to change the pattern width.
In this method does not require the working be slashed in order to change its original shape into
design pattern. It is a transfer method and with experience, it is preferred.

2. Slash-spread dart rotation and overlap technique:

Pattern graders use the slide motion to change pattern sizes. They slide patterns up, down, and
to the side to gradually increase or decrease from one size to the next. Use this sliding motion to
add or subtract length.

Pivot and slide techniques combine these two motions to fit a pattern simply, yet accurately. You
make all the changes on a worksheet (pattern paper or tissue paper), keeping the original
pattern intact—no more cutting and taping! By changing the pattern equally on both sides of the
grain, the seam and the design lines are kept in proportion to the original pattern. Best of all,
each change is easy.

3. Dart equivalents technique:

Pleats or gathers in the fabric can be used as for the same purpose as a normal stitched dart.
These are called dart equivalents. Darts can also be worked into style lines. The dart excess can
be used to create a wide variety of other design features such as, style lines, multiple, tucks,
gathers, pleats, flare and even cowls. Essentially, the dart or its equivalent is always present
somewhere in the pattern. The dart or its equivalent will always radiate from the pivot point.

Different Types of Darts:

The different types of darts are discussed below:

1. Straight dart
2. Curved outward dart
3. Curved inward dart
4. Neckline dart
5. Double pointed dart
6. Dart in interfacing

1. Straight dart:

It is a straight line of stitching from the point to the seam line (Fig-6). This can be noticed in the
underarm of the front bodice, black skirt, shoulder, elbow and back neckline.
2. Curved outward dart:

The stitch line curves outward along the path from the point to the seam line (Fig-7). This gives a
snugger fit to the garment. This is sometimes used on a bodice front to make a mid-body fit
snug.

3. Curved inward dart:

The stitch line curves inward from the point to the seam line. This facilitates a better fit along the
body curve (Fig-8). It is frequently used in pant and skirt fronts.
4. Neckline dart:

This is usually a solid line marking on the back neckline indicating a straight dart of 1/8″ (Fig-9).

5. Double pointed dart:

This dart is unique as it tapers in a straight line from the middle to both the ends (Fig-10) and is
clipped at the widest part. It is usually made from the waistline (widest point). It finds
application in princess and A-line dresses, over blouses and jackets.

6. Dart in interfacing:

In this case, a slash is made on the fold line. Then the cut ends are lapped along the line of
stitching and zigzagged to keep in place.
Basic Dart Manipulation Process:

The diagram above shows different dart locations. You can practice these dart manipulations as
an exercise using either full size or half-scale blocks. By moving these darts around the bust
point, you will begin to understand the method.

Follow the step-by-step basic dart manipulation exercise below:

The basic bodice has two darts. Start by consolidating the two darts into one side seam dart.

1. Trace off the front bodice; here the bodice block is made from card, making tracing easier
and more accurate.
2. Cut up the front waist dart and the side seam dart.

3. Close the waist dart, and the side seam dart opens. (Remember not to cut right through;
keep a small amount of paper attached to act as a hinge.)
To continue this exercise, trace off the front bodice block onto paper. Draw in the lines to the bust
point as shown on the diagram. To manipulate the darts, simply slash to the apex each time and
then close and open the darts in different locations.

Asymmetric Darts Manipulation:

Asymmetric darts cross center front of the garment. Pattern shapes will change radically from that of
the working Pattern. Asymmetric darts require special pattern handling and identification, as do all
designs that differ from side to side. Compare pattern shapes with each design. Cut basic back to
complete the design for test fit.

 A full front pattern is required.

 Right-side-up instructions are necessary.
 The existing dart of the working pattern may interfere with the placement of a stylized dart.
If so, the dart should be transferred temporarily to another location (such as mid-armhole)
before the pattern is plotted.

Seam allowance is illustrated for each pattern because of the dart’s unique shape and location (1/4
inch at neck; 1/2 inch at shoulder, armhole, and waist; and 1/2 to 3/4 inch at side seams).

Types of Asymmetric Darts:

Basic asymmetric darts are applied on design pattern. To get different style on pattern, Asymmetric
darts are changes in various ways. Mainly two types of dart variations are common. These are in
below

1. Asymmetric radiating darts

 2. Asymmetric curved darts

Fig-17: Asymmetric Curved Darts

The step-by-step basic Asymmetric dart manipulation exercise in below:

Fig-18: Asymmetric darts

1. To create asymmetric darts, trace off the bodice block fronts, joining the right and left sides at the
CF (centre front). The full bodice is traced off because the right and left sides are to be different.

Fig-19: Asymmetric darts step-1

2. Cut up both waist and side darts to the apexes. Close the bust dart until its edges meet. The waist
darts will open.
Fig-20: Asymmetric darts step-2

3. Draw in the new dart lines.

Fig-21: Asymmetric darts step-3

4. First cut along the long line that passes from left to right.
Fig-22: Asymmetric darts step-4

5. Close the right-hand waist dart, and the long dart opens.

Fig-23: Asymmetric darts step-5

6. Cut up the shorter dart and close the left-hand waist dart. The short dart opens.
Fig-24: Asymmetric darts step-6

7. The pattern development is complete. Trace in new darts and back away from the apex by 4cm
(11⁄2in). This is now your pattern plan. Trace this off onto a clean sheet of pattern tracing paper. Now
you can add your seam allowance, notches and grain lines.

Fig-25: Asymmetric darts step-7

Changing Darts into Gathers:

Fig-26: Changing Asymmetric dart into Gather dart

Measure the right-hand dart from A to B. Including the dart, the measurement will be longer from A
to C; gather the excess fullness between the notches to match the shorter side as shown.

Fig-27: Gather dart

This style has gathering located under the bust instead of the dart. First, repeat the first six steps
from ‘Asymmetric darts’, above.

Intersecting Darts:

Intersecting darts resemble asymmetric darts and dart equivalents. The darts cross center front and
intersect with each other. To complete the design, use basic back pattern.

Types of Intersecting Darts:

Two common intersecting dart designs are practice in dress pattern. But variations are also available
when the generated patterns are correct if they result in exact representations of the designs.
1. Intersecting dart to waist

Fig-28: Intersecting Dart to Waist

2. Intersecting dart with gathers

Fig-29: Intersecting Dart with Gathers

Different Types of Dart Techniques in Pattern Making
What is Dart in Sewing?

Darts are used for dressmaker’s point marks. It is a technique which used to give proper shape to the
garments by curving straight fabric to the body. Darts are producing by stitching a long, thin confine
to a point, which is then pressed down to one side. Dart manipulation is a technique for moving
darts around a block or sloper to create good fit or create new design.

More about darts:

All darts emit from rounded shapes of the figure. The bust is rounded, not pointed. If the dart is
tacked to the edge of pivotal point, strain lines will appear around the bust, distorting the fit of the
garment. The dart should end at a distance from the bust point to release fabric (fullness) for the
bust pile.
Figure 1: Dart (fadanista.com)

Charting Dart Location:

Darts are an important part of garment construction and there are various types of darts in sewing
that every pattern maker should know. Mostly darts are found in the women’s clothing there is less
use of darts in the men’s clothing for example jackets and trouser. To fit the shape of the garment to
your body in a complimentary way. They can also create style lines that add to a design. Of course,
not all types of darts are the same. These are the most used ones you will find in your favorite fitting
garments.
Figure 2: Charting dart location (Beangirldesign.com)

Types of Darts:

There are two basic types of darts are as follows:

1. Single pointed dart:

It is most common dart mostly used on skirts at waist and trousers and blouses at bust. The single
dart is narrow at one end and wide at the other. With the triangular shape of an angle with single
dart point and two dart lines.

Figure 3: Single dart-sewing beginners (doinaalexie)

2. Double pointed dart:

It is also called fish-eyed dart and body dart. Mostly this darts is used for jackets and dresses that fit
at waist. Double pointed dart is sharp and narrow at both the ends.

Figure 4: Double pointed dart (doina Alexei)

Different Types of Dart Placement:

There are different types of dart placement which can be found in many different sizes and as found
as shoulder dart, mid armhole dart, bodice dart, mid neckline dart, standard waist dart, center front
neck dart etc.

1. Bust dart:

This dart is usually starting two inches below the armhole it is also called as side dart it is straight
dart and fit under the arm pointing towards bust point. Also, it is used to make an innovative shape
in the garment.
Figure 5: Bust dart (dresspatternmaking.com)

2. Shoulder dart:

This type of darts is used for proper fitting of garment on shoulder area the dart angle is totally
dependent upon design and pattern.
Figure 6: Shoulder dart (pinterest.com)

3. Dart tuck:

As we sewn the normal dart same way dart tuck tucks are sewn the difference is point of left dart is
open it helps to give a pleated look to garments. And due to this process fullness is released below
the stitching.
Figure 7: Dart tuck (donia Alexie)

4. Elbow darts:

To make sleeve more fitted dart set in elbow. They are mostly useful for generate the fitted shape in
sleeve for more tailored look.

Figure 8: Elbow dart (pinterest.com)

5. Curved dart:

On some pattern’s darts are drawn with tender curve. These types of darts are creating fullness on
skirt and pant pattern. The direction of the curve dart is depending on the concave direction or
convex direction.
Figure 9: Curved dart (theshapesoffabric.com)

6. Sleeve Hem darts:

A little dart tilt from the hem at little finger boundary of the sleeve, sloping to elbow helps to decline
the sleeve. It helps sleeve for proper fitting to wrist and elbow.

Figure 10: Sleeve hem dart (clothing patterns 101.com)

7. Skirt/ Pant types of darts:

This type of darts starts at the waist and slump towards hip. As per your choice how much fit you
require you have two darts on either side of the center of the skirt waist or pant waist. And as
waistline falls past the hips it crates fullness.

Figure 11: Skirt/pant type of dart (dresspatternmaking.com)

8. French dart:

This dart starts from the waistline and angles towards the bust. The dress pattern is cut in this shape
then it sewn at once along the curve of dart this dart is hard to sew.
Figure 12: French dart (madtosew.com)

Types of Darts All Sewist Must Know:

a) Standard dart:

An ideal dart is open at one end, and it is looking like a triangle shape on a pattern peace. and it is
used at the bust or waist. It’s the most common type of dart, sometimes it is referred to as a plain
dart, and it can be exploited to made various design elements that function same as a dart like
princess seam.
Figure 13: Types of darts in sewing (craftsy.com)

To provide more shape. You can place standard darts at other points of the body. Shoulder and neck
dart, helps to add a womanly shape to a garment that might otherwise look bulky. And elbow darts
permit you to have a more integrated sleeve while still leaving sufficient room to proceed.

b) Serged Darts:

This technique is especially practical when you must add darts to knit garments. Darts can be time-
swallow (consuming) process, but if you have a serger you are in luck — using one can speed up the
process. As knits do notpin well and to reduce the bulk serging can helps.
Figure 14: Serged dart (threads magazine0

c) Converting Darts to Ease:

When you want a more ease silhouette than what customary dart fashion provides, it is good to
change darts to ease. Performance so helps add shape, while still giving you the fit of a loose fitted
garment. Mostly it works specially on skirts. Also, it is used for set in sleeves while creating sleeve
cap.
 Figur
e 15: Converting darts to ease (craftsy.com)

Components of Pattern Engineering

What is Pattern Engineering?
Pattern engineering is the technique of working with a 2D medium (i.e. paper or fabric) to develop
blocks (using either body or garment measurements) which will assist in making garments to drape a
3D body to achieve the desired fit with optimum utilization of resources. A pattern is a map! Can you
imagine a bad map that will require you to ask for clarifications on every turn? You may never get to
your destination or if you finally do get there, it may be too late. And like landmarks for turns and
stops on maps, an engineered pattern should have the correct notches, drill holes for placements of
pockets, and engineered seams with proper corners etc. that reflect instructions graders, marker
makers, spreaders, cutters, and sewers are supposed to follow.
 Fig:
Pattern measurement of human body

It is extremely important to STANDARDIZE the process and the instructions that go along with it. It’s
also important to train all the readers and users of this ‘map’ to read the same information in the
map that was put in there by the maker. And standardization along with organization-wide training
adds tremendously to the reduction of errors and increase in efficiency.

Components of Pattern Engineering

The key components influencing pattern engineering is as follows:

1. Body shape vs. garment shape

2. Garment fit
3. Fabric properties
4. Garment assembling techniques
5. End use

1. Body shape vs. Garment shape

The shaping in human body is primarily in two main areas – the side of the body and the depth of
the body. The shape on the side of the body is addressed by shaping the side seam of pattern to
bring the garment closer to the body on the side. The depth of the body in front is around bust and
waist and in back is around shoulder and small of back. This shaping is more pronounced in case of
women body and must be addressed by folding in the surplus fabric to shape the body contours.
This folded fabric is called darts.
 Fig: Body Shape

Fig:
Garment shape

2. Garment Fit
The desired fit of a garment is defined by the function for which it is intended. The required fit can
be obtained by developing a suitable basic block generated from body dimensions. Basic block (for
garments made from woven fabric) could be loose fitted, semi fitted or fitted. Loose fitting blocks are
much bigger than the body girth measurements, the extra spacing between the wearer and the
clothing being the ease. Bigger the ease, looser is the garment. Essentially, loose fitting garment
block is one where the garment is more than 5” bigger than the body hip and chest girth
measurements. It has a boxy shape, i.e. dimensions at chest, waist and hip are equal, and therefore
falls away from the body. Such blocks are used in the production of shirts windcheater and rain coat.
Fig: Garment fitting

Semis fitted blocks are shaped closer to the body on the side. The blocks have chest and hip girth
measurement 2- 4” bigger than the body measurement while waist is 6-8” bigger than the actual
waist measurement. Fitted blocks are required when garment is to be made fitted around the body
and fullness of the garment around the body is required to be reduced such as uniforms, swimsuits
or action wear, etc. In such garments, the shape of the body at the front as well as the sides needs to
be addressed in the block. The blocks therefore are shaped in the circumference as well as the
depth. When using woven fabric in such applications, typically the blocks have chest, waist and hip
girth measurement 2-4” bigger than the body measurement.

You may also like: Basic Elements and Techniques of Garment Fitting

3. Fabric Properties
Fabric is a key element in fulfilling the desired function for which the garment is being designed.
Each fabric type has its own unique properties and characteristics; inputs regarding these are
required to develop the pattern in order to achieve the desired comfort, fit and functionality.
Properties of the material selected determine the dimensions of the final block as the behavior and
characteristics of the fabrics. For example, while working with knitted fabrics, a key fabric
characteristic is the “stretch” which can vary from 18% to 100% or more. Also, the direction of
stretch is a critical element here, wherein the fabric may have one way (cross-wise), 2 way (both
length and cross-wise) or 4 way stretch (all directions). Functional garments, where such fabrics are
used are action wear, exercise wear, sportswear and swimwear.

4. Garment Assembling
The desired functionality of the garment and the constraints imposed by function and aesthetics,
guide and define the selection of openings and closures, trims, seam types and seam finishes for a
garment. Such inputs are required at the time of pattern making in order to make provisions for the
same.
 Fig:
Garment assembling

End Use
Comfort, coverage and protection are the key requirements from any garment. For functional
garments, inputs regarding the specific intended end use are required to develop the patterns. In
fact, the entire concept of engineering of standard pattern designs revolves around achieving this
specific end usage and governs the pattern engineering techniques employed.

Fig: End uses of pattern engineering

Sewing Technique
Garments Washing Techniques

ABSTRACT
In apparel sector the garments items are exported outside after some
treatments, may be dyeing, finishing, in a nutshell garment washing. The
paper is concerned with the study of the available garments washing
techniques at present in Bangladesh. It will lead the technical person to think
over the process outlines as well as chemistry and thus the future buyer
requirements will also be fulfilled through research on base operations,
including garments dyeing, acid wash, enzyme wash, stone wash, stone
enzyme, sand blasting, heavy destroy, permanent scrunch, tie die and bleach,
whiskers etc. are described in detailed with their effect.

INTRODUCTION
The evolution of the jean’s market led to the development of some unique and
creative methods for the processing of denim garments. Originally, jeans were
marketed and sold as work wear, but when jeans appreciated by consumers as
general casual wear, they became fashionable and new techniques were
developed to enhance denim garments.

The first generation of indigo jeans was stiff and uncomfortable when first
purchased, due to the finishing techniques used for denim fabrics. The
second generation of the jean’s market evolution produced pre-washed jeans
by the manufacturer. These jeans had a slightly faded appearance and a softer
hand that felt comfortable. Not long after the introduction of pre-washed
jeans, the idea of using abrasive stones to accelerate the aging process was
developed and “stone washing” was born, creating an even more “broken-in”
look. Next, chlorine bleach was incorporated in these wash techniques ice
washing was developed, in which the porous stones are soaked in a bleaching
agent and then tumbled with dry or slightly damp garments.
 F
ig: Garment washing plant in Bangladesh

Most recently, a cellulase wash procedure was developed in which cellulase

enzymes were used to accelerate color and fiber removal. This process can be
more efficient, since with fewer stones. These garments washing techniques
were originally developed for denim garments, but are now being used for a
wide variety of different garment types. This technical article describes the
basic wash, stonewash, stonewash with chlorine, ice wash, and cellulose wash
techniques used for cotton garments. Any of these procedures can be modified
to fit a particular situation, depending upon garment type, available
equipment and process flow.

Objects of Garments Washing:

1. To remove impurities.
2. To remove hairiness of garments to make it comfortable to wear.
3. To reduce the body color and to get a worn-out look.
4. To enhance the seams and make sewing effects prominent.
5. To make it soft and add value to the garment sewing effects.

Available Garments Washing Techniques Used in Bangladesh:

Dry Process:

 Sand Blasting.
 Heavy Destroy.
 Permanent scrunch.
 Whiskers.
 Crinkle
 Grinding
 Tagging

Wet Process (Wash):

 Normal wash.
 Garments wash.
 Stone wash.
 Acid wash.
 Enzyme with bleach.
 Enzyme +stone+ Bleach wash.
 Enzyme Silicon.
 Soda wash.
 Bleach wash.
 Tie bleach.
 Tie Wash.
 Super white wash.
 Chemical Blasting.

Available Garments Dyeing Techniques Used in Bangladesh:

1. Dip Dyeing.
2. Over dyeing.
3. Tie dyeing.
4. Pigment dyeing
5. Tinting

Name of Some Well Known Garments Washing Plants in

Bangladesh:

1. Unique washing and Dyeing Ltd.

2. Standard group washing and Dyeing Ltd.
3. Ha-Meem washing Ltd.
4. Nassa Washing Ltd.
5. Columbia washing Ltd.
6. Ham’s washing Ltd.
7. Epyllion Washing Ltd.
8. Beximco Washing Plant Ltd.
9. Opex-Sinha Washing Ltd.
10.Santa washing Ltd.
11. Optimo washing Ltd.
12. Padma Washing & Dyeing Ltd.
13. Ultra washing and Dyeing Ltd.
14. Paradise Washing Plant Ltd.
15. Prime Washing Plant Ltd.
16. Al-Muslim Washing Ltd.
 17. Masco Washing
18.Babylon Washing Ltd

Description of Different Washing and Dyeing Techniques:

Washing and Dyeing Sequence:

Lab (washing & dyeing)

↓
Sample Preparation
↓
Bulk Production
↓
Extraction
↓
Dryer
↓
Finishing with Quality assurance
↓
Delivery

GARMENT WASH
Indigo jeans were once the only item processed by the garment
wash method, but this is no longer the case. A wide variety of different types
of woven and knit fabrics dyed by different systems are now used in apparel
that is garment washed before retail distribution. Emphasis is on comfort and
softness. Also, some fashion trends such as the broken-in look and worn/faded
seams that can only be achieved through garment processing.

PROCEDURE OF GARMENT WASH

Garments can be inverted to minimize unwanted abrasion streaks (especially

useful when preset creases are present).
↓
Load machine with garments.
↓
Desize with alpha amylase enzyme and detergent.
↓
Rinse.
↓
Fill machine with water and heat to 60◦C. The liquor ratio can range from 10:1
to 20:1. A number of synthetic detergents can be used. Also, alkaline products
such as soda ash or caustic soda can be added in amounts ranging from 0.5 to
2.0 grams/liter, dependent upon the particular dyestuff used.
↓
Wash/tumble action for 20-60 minutes, depending upon desired effect.
↓
 Drain and rinse.
↓
Apply softener.
↓
Tumble dry.
↓
Press, if required.

STONE WASH
In order to accelerate the garment wash effect and to give garments an even
more unique appearance and softer hand, abrasive stones were introduced to
the wash bath. It is also among the popular garments washing techniques. A
variety of natural and synthetic stones are available for stone washing. As the
stones are used, they slowly disintegrate, reducing the stonewash effect over a
period of time. The stones not only abrade the fabric but also gradually abrade
the inside of the rotary drum. A machine used for stone washing should not be
used to dye delicate articles.

Fig: Stone washed jeans

STONE TYPES:

1. Pumice rock.
2. Volcanic rock.
3. Manmade substrates.

CONSIDERING FACTORS OF STONE:

  Hardness.
 Size.
 Shape.
 Porosity.
 Dusting ability.

APPLICATIONS:

1. Large, hard stones which last longer for heavy fabrics

2. Smaller, softer stones for lightweight and more delicate fabrics
3. Ratio of stone weight to fabric weight = 2:1 up to 3:l

TYPICAL WORKING PROCEDURE FOR STONE WASHING

Load stones into machine.

↓
Load garments into machine (ratio usually 0.5 – 3.0 part weight stones:1 part
weight garments).
↓
Desize with alpha amylase enzyme and detergent.
↓
Liquor ratio approximately (5-8):1.
↓
Rinse.
↓
Refill and tumble with stones 30 to 90 minutes, depending upon desired effect
at 50-70◦C. Scouring additives can also be used.
↓
Drain. Separate garments from stones.
↓
Rinse.
↓
Apply softener (garments can be transferred to another machine for
softening).
↓
Extract and unload.
↓
Tumble dry.
↓
Press, if required.

Softeners and/or lubricants can be added during steps three and five to reduce
creasing potential. Steps 8, 9, and 10 may vary depending upon garments
quality.

NOTES: Back staining or color deposition can be reduced by

 1. Adding dispersant suspension agent to wash cycle
2. Intermediate replacement of wash liquor
3. Use of alkaline detergent (sodium per-borate with optical brightener as an
after wash)

ALTERNATE OF PUMICE STONE:

To overcome the shortcoming of pumice stones, synthetic stones have been
developed. These are made of abrasive material such as silicate, plastic, rubber
or Portland cement.

The advantages of using such type of product are:

1. All major problems associated with the use of volcanic grade pumice stone
can be overcome.
2. Durability of such product is much higher and can be used repeatedly
from 50-300 cycle depending upon type of synthetic stone.
3. Reproducibility of washing is manageable.
4. As stone discharge of the process is very less, therefore making process is
economical and ecological.
5. Less damage of machine and garments

You may also like: Bio-Stone Washing with Celluloses for Denim

STONE WASH WITH CHLORINE

By incorporating chlorine in the stonewash procedure, a color reduction of the
indigo (or other chlorine sensitive dyestuff) is obtained. It is very important
that any residual chlorine be removed before drying to prevent fiber
degradation. This is accomplished by using an antichlor step with sodium
bisulfite or hydrogen peroxide.

PROCEDURE

Load stones into machine.

↓
Load garments into machine (ratio usually 0.5 – 3.0 part stones:1 part
garments).
↓
Desize with alpha amylase enzyme and detergent (liquor ratio approximately
10:1).
↓
Rinse.
↓
*5. Refill and add sodium or calcium hypochlorite. (Heat to 55◦C.)
↓
Tumble 15 minutes.
↓
Add second portion of sodium or calcium hypochlorite.
 ↓
Tumble 15 minutes, maintaining temperature of 55◦C.
↓
Drain.
↓
Rinse well.
↓
Antichlor with sodium bisulfite or hydrogen peroxide.
↓
Drain. Separate garments from stones.
↓
Rinse well.
↓
Apply softener. (Garments can be transferred to another machine).
↓
Extract and unload.
↓
Tumble dry.
↓
Press, if required.

[*Amount of sodium or calcium hypochlorite required will vary depending

upon desired level of bleach down and the sensitivity of the color to chlorine.
Each addition can range from 0.075% to 0.225% available chlorine. pH should
be kept above 9.0, preferably 10.5-11.0. This is accomplished with the addition
of soda ash with each addition of hypochlorite.]

CELLULASE ENZYME
Cellulase enzymes have gained acceptance in the garment wash industry as a
means to achieve a wash down appearance without the use of stones or with
reduced quantities of stones Stones are not only abrasive to garments but also
to the equipments. Stones can create sludge in waste treatment systems.
Cellulase enzyme is a particular strain of enzyme derived from
microorganisms. Selective to cotton form of cellulose and not to starch. Once
the reaction takes place, They attack (1–4) beta glucoside linkages resulting in
reduced molecular weight and therefore removal of surface fiber (the
mechanical action between garments and equipment as well as between
garments fabric weaker fibers resulting a cleaner, smoother surface. Stones
may be added to enhance the abrasion). Among different garments washing
techniques, enzyme wash are widely used to bring effect on denim.

MAIN FACTORS THAT SHOULD CONTROL IN ENZYME

WASHING:

 PH
 Temperature
 Time
 Concentration
 Mechanical action

TYPICAL PROCEDURE FOR CELLULASE ENZYME WASH

Load garments (addition of stones optional)

↓
Desize for starch (alpha-amalase enzyme or oxidative desize)
↓
Rinse
↓
Adjust pH to 4.5 – 5.0 with acetic acid or a buffer system
↓
Heat to 50 to 60 C ( 122 – 140 F)
↓
Add cellulase enzyme
↓
Tumble for 30 – 60 minutes
↓
Deactivation step- rinse hot > 65 C ( 150 F)
↓
Rinse cold
↓
Soften and/or optically brighten
↓
Tumble dry
↓
Deactivation of the cellulase enzyme to prevent further weight reduction can
be done by temperatures in excess of 60 C (140 F) and/or at a pH higher than
5.0.
↓
Cellulase enzymes may be used as an after treatment to clean up surfaces of
Garments which have become fuzzy during garment dyeing.
↓
The shade of the dyed garments may change which requires preliminary lab
work to determine if this will be a problem or not.

ACID WASH

 Also known as ICE WASH, SNOW WASH, WHITE WASH, ETC.

 Complete discharge or removal of color possible
 Uses pumice rocks, bleaching agents and dyestuffs that are sensitive to the
bleaching agents.
 Porous rocks that have a medium to high dusting capability are soaked in
solutions of bleaching agents which are used as a vehicle to deposit a
chemical on garments to strip the color and produces a frosted
 appearance. Indigo and selected sulfur dyes are currently the most
popular candidates for this procedure.

FLOWCHART OF ACID WASH

Soak stones in solutions of potassium permanganate for 1-2 hours.

Concentrations ranging from 1.5% to 5% are being used commercially. (5% to
10% sodium hypochlorite can be substituted.)
↓
Stones should be drained of excess liquor. This can be accomplished by
placing stones in net or mesh fabric prior to soaking. Then the stones can be
removed and the excess drained off. Trials should be conducted to determine
the best method for achieving desired effects.
↓
Place stones and garments in machine (garments should be scoured and/or
desized and dry or slightly damp).
↓
Tumble for 10-30 minutes or until desired effects are achieved. Results are
dependent upon dyestuff, fabric, concentration of chemicals, stones, additives,
and equipment.
↓
*If potassium permanganate is used, manganese dioxide will form (a
brown/orange color) and must be removed by treatment with sodium
bisulfate, hydroxylamine sulfate, or acidified hydrogen peroxide as the
reducing agent. Fill the machine with water and add 1-5 g/l of the reducing
agent. Heat to 50◦C and run for 20 minutes. When sodium hypochlorite is
used, the residual chlorine should be removed with sodium bisulfate or
hydrogen peroxide. Adding jeans to machine already charged with after wash
chemicals will increase contrast.
↓
Rinse well
Apply softener.
Tumble dry.
Ironing (if required)

[* The selection of sodium hypochlorite versus potassium permanganate

depends upon the dyestuff and desired effect]

QUICK WASH
Quick wash fabric is dyed with modified technique of dyeing, so that during
wash cycle, indigo dye can be removed quickly, giving washed look at shorter
washing cycle. This results in more economical washes i.e. low water
consumption, less usage of chemicals, less time and retaining fabric strength.

DRY PROCESSES
SAND BLASTING
Sand blasting technique is based on blasting an abrasive material in granular,
powdered or other form through a nozzle at very high speed and pressure onto
specific areas of the garment surface to be treated to give the desired
distressed/ abraded/used look.

ADVANTAGES OF SAND BLASTING PROCESS:

1. It is purely mechanical process, not using any chemicals.

2. It is a water free process therefore no drying required.
3. Variety of distressed or abraded looks possible.
4. Any number of designs could be created by special techniques.

MECHANICAL ABRASION
to give worn out effect, abraded look or used look, some mechanical processes
have been developed. These are based on mechanical abrasion by which the
indigo can be removed. Some of these processes are sueding, raising,
emeresing, peaching and brushing.

ADVANTAGES OF THESE PROCESSES:

1. Control on the abrasion

2. Different look on the garment can be achieved.
3. All are dry process.
4. Economical, ecological and environmental friendly.

OZONE FADING
By using this technique, the garment can be bleached. Bleaching of denim
garment is done in washing machine with ozone dissolved in water. Denim
garments can also be bleached or faded by using ozone gas in closed chamber.

The advantages associated with this process are:

1. Colour removal is possible without losing strength.

2. This method is very simple and environmentally friendly because after
laundering, ozonized water can easily be deozonized by UV radiation.

SPRAY TECHNIQUES
This technique is based on spraying the chemicals or pigments to get different
effect on the garments. This can be done by using robotic spraying gun or by
manual spray and followed by curing of the garment.

 It a water free process therefore zero effluent discharge.

 Less time consuming
 Different designs are possible
 Easy to use
 No adverse effect on fabric strength.
 GARMENTS DYEING PROCEDURE WITH PIGMENT

Rinse wash
Pigment added as required
Steam 70 c
Time (10+15+20)
Normal Wash
Binder-2g/lit (70c-5min)
Normal Wash
Enzyme
Acid pH-5
Normal Wash
Softener
Hydro
Dryer
Finishing

TINTED DENIM
With increase in demand of tinted/ over dyed look on garment, garment
processor is using an additional process of tinting/over dyeing, which is time
consuming. It consumes large quantity of water and chemicals. It is also
associated with the risk of patches and unevenness on garments. Now the
denim fabric is also available in tinted form which saves processors time and
risk.

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

To assess the influence of different garments washing techniques on denim
properties, changes in structural and certain physical mechanical properties
were determined. Different garments washing techniques make different
influence on the denim thickness. Enzymes removed impurities and individual
loose fiber ends and smoothing the surface, which caused the thinning.
Softener precipitates on the yarns, therefore fabric thickness increase.

CONCLUSION
The investigation shows that the greatest influence on the change of garments
properties was made by silicone softening. After this washing, the fabric
shrinks most of all (till 5 %), which caused the considerable changes of
structural properties From all the treatment, the enzyme washing made the
greatest influence on the change of thickness, denim became the thinnest.

Washing with a chlorine solution mostly influenced the change of denim

structural properties. This method of washing should be avoided due to its
harmful effect on human health. Therefore, similar results obtained with
simple softening or enzyme washing might be recommended.
Both visual and functional purpose of a garment may be assessed whereas
selection of a particular method of industrial washing influenced different
fabric properties.

Source
1. https://sewingiscool.com/
2. https://www.textileschool.com/

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2. Textile learner
3. Textile learner
4. Type of woven fabric - 20 types of FABRIC WEAVES
5. Classification of Fabric Weave Patterns- Classification of Fabric Weave Patterns
6. Viscose VS Polyester: (sewingiscool.com)
7. Textile Fabric Types by Fibber Sources - Textile School

Wash

1. Process Flow Chart of Silicon Wash - Textile Flowchart

2. Presentation on silicon wash (slideshare.net)
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4. Textile & Clothing Info: Silicone Wash (textileclothinginfo.blogspot.com)
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Communications

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