Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Scenic Byways Travel Planner
Scenic Byways Travel Planner
Scenic Byways
& Road trips
INSIDE:
Road Maps &
Scenic Drives
Planning Tips
Points of Interest
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Table of contents
washington state’s scenic byways & Road trips Introduction 3
Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips guide has been made possible State Map Overview of Scenic Byways 4
through funding from the Federal Highway Administration’s National Scenic
Byways Program, Washington State Department of Transportation and
Washington State Tourism.
All American Roads
Washington State department of commerce
Chinook Pass Scenic Byway 9
Director, Rogers Weed International Selkirk Loop 15
Washington State Tourism
Executive Director, Marsha Massey National scenic Byways
Marketing Manager, Betsy Gabel
Product Development Manager, Michelle Campbell Coulee Corridor 21
Washington State Department of Transportation Mountains to Sound Greenway 25
Secretary of Transportation, Paula Hammond
Director, Highways and Local Programs, Kathleen Davis
Stevens Pass Greenway 29
Scenic Byways Coordinator, Ed Spilker Strait of Juan de Fuca - Highway 112 33
Byway leaders and an interagency advisory group with representatives from the
White Pass Scenic Byway 37
Washington State Department of Transportation, Washington State Department
of Agriculture, Washington State Department of Fish & Wildlife, Washington
State Tourism, Washington State Parks and Recreation Commission and state scenic Byways
Audubon Washington were also instrumental in the creation of this guide. Cape Flattery Tribal Scenic Byway 40
Publishing services provided by Destination Media Alliance, LLC
425 N. 85th Street, Seattle, WA 98103
Cascade Loop 42
206-443-0445 ext. 103 Cascade Valleys 46
Managing Partners, Paul Heppner, Lisa Schwartz, Marcus Yearout Chuckanut Drive 48
Managing Editor, Susan Peterson
Project Managers, Marcus Yearout, Michelle Campbell Columbia River Gorge 50
Art Director, Jana Rekosh
Contributing Writers, Tom Keogh, Anne Erickson Cranberry Coast Scenic Byway 52
Editorial Content Review, Carol Zahorsky Hidden Coast Scenic Byway 54
Cartography, Julia Martin
Controller, April Morgan Lewis and Clark Trail 56
Editorial copy appearing in this publication does not constitute an endorsement Mt. Baker Scenic Byway 60
of products or services by the State of Washington, the Washington State
Tourism Office, Department of Commerce or Department of Transportation. North Cascades Scenic Highway 62
Information, including prices, dates and hours, should be verified. North Pend Oreille Scenic Byway 64
Okanogan Trails 66
Pacific Coast Scenic Byway 68
Palouse Scenic Byway 72
top adventures legend San Juan Islands Scenic Byway 74
Look for these symbols in each byway’s planning tips. Sherman Pass Scenic Byway 76
Indian Country
Spirit Lake Memorial Highway 78
Natural Beauty Winter Sports
Swiftwater Corridor 80
Hiking, Trekking and Wildlife, Whale
Family Fun
Mountain Climbing and Bird Watching Whidbey Scenic Isle Way 82
National and State Parks
& Recreation Areas
Photography Wine and Cuisine Yakama Scenic Byway 84
Bicycling Arts, Culture Yakima River Canyon 86
Mountain and
and Heritage
Volcanoes
Boating, Canoeing, Resources 88
Island Experiences Kayaking and Rafting Festivals and Events
photo credits: Cover (VIEW OF san juan ISLANDS from Deception Pass Area)
Lakes, Rivers Camping
Museums and Galleries and table of contents (top of mt. Si overlooking I-90), Deborah RIchardson;
and Waterfalls PAGE 4 &5 (PALOUSE region, south of pullman), PATRICK BENNETT; inside back
Beaches cover (spring view oF Mt. St. helens), back cover (Scablands in north central
Fishing Breweries
washington), John Marshall
mT. Rainier
Lake
8 Tipsoo, Chinook Pass Summit Photo by BAUNTON
ALL AMERICAN ROADS
Chinook Pass
The Chinook Pass Scenic Byway runs from the rolling fields of Enumclaw
west of the Cascades to the Naches Valley east of the range.
Along the way, this two-lane pass wraps around the
northeastern flank of iconic Mount Rainier.
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...and you’ll discover the authentic Pacific Northwest
and all of its spectacular diversity.
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Scenic Byways
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All American Roads
All American Road Rest Area Airport About this tour guide
National Byway Ski Resort Military Airport The byways are broken down into three tiers: All American
Roads, National Scenic Byways and State Scenic Byways.
State Byway Customs Dam
These designations are awarded by the U.S. Department
of Transportation’s Federal Highway Administration.
To learn more, please refer to the resource section on page 88.
Chinook Pass
The Chinook Pass Scenic Byway runs from the rolling fields of Enumclaw
west of the Cascades to the Naches Valley east of the range.
Along the way, this two-lane pass wraps around the
northeastern flank of iconic Mount Rainier.
area has corner cafes where you can Park. This day-use park has more than bums with sporting-equipment rentals,
fill up on scratch cooking for your 600 acres of old-growth evergreens and coffee stands, a welcoming tavern and
journey. Try timing your visit with one offers 12 miles of hiking trails, including a general store with a wide front porch.
of Enumclaw’s many seasonal events; three short interpretive loops that are There’s even a business housed in a log
the town hosts professional and amateur great for kids. cabin (of course) that’s been selling
bike races, street festivals, an annual The park’s Catherine Montgomery custom-made knit caps since the 1970s.
Fourth of July parade, the wild and Interpretive Center (named for a If you visit in fall, be sure to watch
wonderful Scottish Highland Games pioneer educator) is open May through from the bridge in the heart of town for
and much more. Also, if you noticed a September and features a geological spawning salmon swimming upstream.
lot of farms with gorgeous horses on the history of the nearby White River, plus There are other excellent migration
way into town, it’s because Enumclaw plants on display from the park’s nine viewing spots nearby; just ask at the local
is one of the biggest thoroughbred different ecosystems. “tavern”—a friendly place that’s actually
breeding and boarding areas in the a bar and grill, where kids are welcome.
United States. Greenwater
Farther along is the little town of Incomparable Rainier views
Mud Mountain Dam Greenwater and the historic Naches Twenty-three miles east of Enumclaw
A little farther up SR-410, Mud Trail, on which the earliest settlers is your first dazzling glimpse of Mount
Mountain Dam Recreational Area is a arrived here in wagons. Many years Rainier. Fortunately, there’s a highway
popular day-use facility for the whole later, the first visitors to newly opened pullout here, since this stunning sight
family. Centered on a dam built on Mount Rainier National Park drove can be distracting. Stay alert for passing
the White River in the 1940s, the park that same route. motorists whose attention may be more
has plenty of grassy areas, playgrounds, Don’t make the mistake of speeding on the view than on the road. Also, keep
a wading pool with a fountain and a past this forested town; posted speed careful watch for elk crossings along this
forested nature trail. limits are strictly enforced. Besides, popular stretch of byway.
Eagles, owls and herons are common Greenwater is the perfect spot to stop, Another great view can be found at
here, and you may even spot elk or beavers. stretch your legs and grab coffee. It’s the nearby Suntop Lookout, about 7 miles
last town before the pass, and the “hasn’t off SR-410 over two forest service roads
Federation Forest State Park changed for decades” ambience of this best traveled by all-wheel-drive vehicles.
About 18 miles east of Enumclaw is place is undeniable. Tranquil Greenwater A 1934 fire lookout, now listed on the
the stunning Federation Forest State caters to locals, road warriors and ski National Register of Historic Places,
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chinook
namePASS
perched 3,000 feet above White River, this is also a very popular mountain Mountain Boulevard is the point where
Suntop has a 360-degree perspective biking destination. the Chinook Scenic Byway closes for the
on the Cascades, the distant Olympic Before getting much closer to Crystal winter. So, road conditions permitting,
Mountains and even Mount Baker, 150 Mountain and Sunrise, stop in at the everything up to this point is accessible
miles away to the north. historic Silver Creek Guard Station, year round.
a visitor center open daily from May
Skookum Falls and the to October. Mount Rainier National Park
Pallisades trailhead The byway traverses the northeast
Back on SR-410, note Skookum Crystal Mountain: Not just a corner of Mount Rainier National Park,
Falls along the west side of the White winter playground a true Washington wonderland. Just 15
River, cascading in a pair of narrow tiers During winter, Washington’s largest miles off the byway, via the White River
and dropping 250 feet. Spring runoff ski resort, Crystal Mountain, has 2,600 entrance (a $15 fee per car is required),
season is the best time to catch the falls, acres of world-class terrain for skiers and is the scenic drive to the park’s Sunrise
and there is a parking area for viewing. snowboarders, along with many slope-side Visitor Center, the mountain’s highest
Skookum Falls is near the trailhead to lodging and dining options. A new high- elevation (6,400 feet) accessible by car.
the Palisades rock formation, an array speed gondola allows skiers to make even The view of Mount Rainier from
of dramatic columnar basalt cliffs and more runs on those perfect powder days. Sunrise is powerful. The mountain is
plateaus located in the northwest corner The addition of the Mount Rainier
of White River Park. It can be seen Gondola seals Crystal’s reputation as a
from the Suntop Lookout road, which world-class ski resort, but it also means
photos: TOP, PATRICK BENNETT; bottom, Jason Anglin
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chinook PASS
to a mile-long walk to Boulder Cave, a Naches (pronounced nat-CHEEZE), Pull into Naches
400-foot-deep cave where a dwindling turn onto US-12 and stop at the Oak The byway’s end point, Naches,
population of Townsend’s big-eared bats Creek Wildlife Area feeding station for is a tiny community 13 miles northwest
hibernates during the winter (the cave is an encounter with one of the biggest of Yakima near the banks of the Naches
closed to the public at that time). herds of Rocky Mountain elk in the River. The town is a gateway between
Take one of the offered tours or be country. The feeding station operates the wild forests of the Cascades and
your own guide, but bring flashlights in the winter when the Yakima herd of the fruit orchards of the Yakima
(with plenty of extra batteries) and more than 1,000 elk comes down from Valley. The portion you see from
something warm to wear. It’s about snowy higher elevations. the highway does not tell the full
50 degrees in the cave, even on a hot Bring warm clothes, arrive at the story of this community. The area
summer day. visitor center prior to the 1:30 p.m. was settled in the 1850s, when some
feeding time and take a truck tour out of the members of the Longmire
Dining, lodging and supplies in Cliffdell to the feeding grounds for a close-up wagon train decided to opt for the
Cliffdell, a quiet area in the woods of view of these massive animals. Continue region’s warmer, drier climes instead
Wenatchee National Forest, is a good along SR-410 to see the Cleman of pushing on to the rainy Pacific
place for travelers to pick up supplies, Mountain year-round bighorn sheep coast. Pull into Naches’ quaint little
grab a great meal or even book a room feeding station. downtown for some antique shopping
after the scenic drive over the pass. Don’t overlook the birds. Lewis’s and local dining.
Heading down the east side of this woodpeckers, golden eagles, turkey The Naches Valley is an agricultural
byway, visitors pass through a transition vultures and myriad other birds abound area with a bounty of fruit orchards
zone as the dense forests thin out, in these garry-oak woodlands, basalt (primarily apple and pear) and
revealing the dramatic underpinnings of cliffs and sage-covered hills. This area is vineyards. Be sure to load up on
the land. The changing landscape reveals also part of the Great Washington State fresh-picked seasonal fruits and
mesmerizing, almost dreamlike evidence Birding Trail—Sun and Sage Loop. vegetables at the many roadside stands.
of ancient volcanic activity. Watch for
unique, drooping geologic landforms on
the north side of the byway just east of
Cliffdell. Wide shoulders on both sides
Planning Tips Driving Distance 87 MILES
of the road enable visitors to stop and Getting There: The western Drive time 2 hours
look (bring binoculars) across the river starting point, Enumclaw, is
plan to spend 1 day
approximately 40 miles (50 minutes) southeast
at prehistoric lava outcroppings where
of Seattle. The byway is 87 miles long, heading
eagles nest. best seasons* spring, summer, fall
east from Enumclaw to Naches, following the
Mather Memorial Highway (SR-410). Chinook top adventures
Naches River Pass is closed from just beyond the Crystal
Mountain Ski Area at milepost 57 to Morse * Much of the route is open year round, but Chinook Pass is
The Naches River is your constant closed during winter. (See “Getting There” for details.)
Creek at milepost 74 on the east side between
companion along this part of the byway. approximately the end of November and the end
photos: left, PATRICK BENNETT; RIght, MARCUS YEAROUT
It dodges between high basalt cliffs and of May. Check www.dot.wa.gov for road conditions and seasonal closures.
eddies into deep-green pools. White-
Gas, Food and Lodging: Accommodations ranging from cabins to hotels to condos to hostel-
water enthusiasts enjoy this river’s Class style bunks can be found in the larger towns along the byway, as well as at Crystal Mountain.
II and III rapids during the high-water Campgrounds are plentiful, as are RV parks. Fuel and other services are available, though there are long
months of May and June. Campers stretches of highway without them. Greenwater is your last fuel stop until you reach Cliffdell, 53 miles up
and over the Chinook Pass summit.
enjoy the many campgrounds along this
river year round. Connected or Nearby Scenic Byways:
White Pass, Yakima River Canyon
Elk and bighorn sheep feeding stations Local ResourceS: Chinook Scenic Byway chinookscenicbyway.com, White Pass Scenic Byway
Wildlife lovers shouldn’t miss this www.whitepassbyway.com, Visit Rainier www.visitrainier.com
2-mile detour. Just before the town of
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international SELKIRK LOOP
who can see western tanagers, eagles, why this is a holy site to the native people. meadow, on the left. A half mile west
Virginia rails, red-winged and yellow- The Kalispel have held services here from there, you’ll find Nile Lake, a
headed blackbirds, bobolinks, vireos, and since the nineteenth century and still shallow lake with a primitive boat ramp.
Savannah sparrows. hold an annual Easter mass in the rock Another quarter mile to the east is Frater
shelter. A missionary named the cave Lake, a developed recreation site with
Cusick Wetland Education Site. Along the after one in Spain in which St. Ignatius, picnic facilities and restrooms. Frater
shore of the Pend Oreille River in Cusick founder of the Jesuits, prayed. Rows Lake has single- and double-track trails
is a Wetland Education Site, an example of flat stones provide seating before a for mountain bikers, and winter visitors
of creative thinking in terms of both the simple stone altar in the auditorium-like will enjoy cross-country ski trails and a
environment and the community’s well- grotto. Find this natural worship spot warming hut.
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international SELKIRK LOOP
historic path to fishing grounds at Lake Return to Washington the Ice Age and the Great Missoula
Pend Oreille. From Sandpoint, follow US-2 Floods. You can read more about this
westbound to re-enter Washington and in the Coulee Corridor Scenic Byway
Bonners Ferry. The town of Bonners complete the loop at Newport following section of this guide.
Ferry originated as a river crossing point.
It was first traversed by Indian bark
canoes and then by Edwin Bonner’s
ferry, built in 1865 to transport the
Planning Tips Driving Distance 280 MILES
miners rushing to the new gold strike on Getting There: From Seattle, take Drive time 8 hours
I-90 to Spokane, then head north on
Wild Horse Creek in British Columbia US-2 to Newport (325 miles / 6 hours). Take SR- plan to spend 2-3 days
Highlights: Kootenai National Wildlife 20 at the town of Newport, and proceed north. A
junction at Tiger connects with SR-31, leading best seasons* year round
Refuge; Boundary County Museum. north to the Canadian border. When returning
to Seattle, consider taking SR-20 west at Tiger top adventure: 2 states / 2 countries
Sandpoint. Less than an hour north of across the Sherman Pass Scenic Byway and all
the way to US-97 to join the Okanogan Trails *The route is open year round. Check www.dot.wa.gov for road
Coeur d’Alene, the approach from Scenic Byway and Cascade Loop. conditions and seasonal closures.
the south into Sandpoint on US-95
Connected or Nearby Scenic Byways:
sets the stage for a dramatic entrance;
North Pend Oreille, Sherman Pass, Okanogan Trails, Cascade Loop,
a 2-mile-long bridge crossing over Panhandle Historic Rivers Passage (ID), Wild Horse Trail Scenic Byway (ID)
the beautiful Lake Pend Oreille.
Local ResourceS:
Sandpoint sits on the northwestern
International Selkirk Loop www.selkirkloop.org,
shore of the 43-mile lake, which comes Pend Oreille River Tourism Alliance www.porta-us.com/pages/activities/byway.asp
alive in the summer months when
Coulee Corridor
Coulee Corridor
This breathtaking landscape will leave you wondering
if the rest of the world really exists.
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coulee corridor
more power than a million locomotives. As you travel the last leg of this byway Okanogan country, Omak is a year-
A visit should include a stop at the from Grand Coulee Dam to Omak, round playground featuring recreational
visitor center to learn the dam’s history. don’t miss the Sasquatch at the top of activities from camping and fishing to
Tours of the awe-inspiring structure are Disautel Pass between Nespelem and cross-country skiing and snowmobiling.
available. In addition, the dam’s smooth Omak. It’s a sculpture, of course, but The main street has a small-town feel,
concrete face serves as a projection many have reported Sasquatch sightings with great shops to browse and locally
screen for laser light shows that have in this area. owned restaurants. Annual cultural
been entertaining audiences since events include the Omak Stampede,
the 1980s. Omak: End of the trail Indian Encampment & Pow Wow and,
From Grand Coulee Dam, continue thanks to a rich Hispanic influence, one
Colville Confederated Tribes Museum west on SR-155 toward the town of the best Cinco de Mayo celebrations
Grand Coulee Dam is located on of Omak. Located in the heart of in the state.
the Colville Indian Reservation, home
to a dozen tribes (Moses, Columbia,
Wenatchee, Okanogan, Entiat-Chelan, Planning Tips Driving Distance 100 MILES
Methow, Nez Perce, Palus, Nespelem,
Getting There: From Seattle, take Drive time 2.5 hours
Colville, San Poil, and Lake) and the
I-90 east across the Columbia River
resting place of the legendary Chief at Vantage, then head south to SR-26 east to plan to spend 1–2 days
Joseph of the Nez Perce. Find the tall Othello (178 miles / 2.75 hours). The byway
begins in Othello and winds its way north best seasons* spring, summer, fall
marble monument that marks his grave
through lakes, farmland and basalt coulees,
at the Colville tribal cemetery top adventures
ending in Omak. Depending on the season, you
in Nespelem. may want to continue via the North Cascades *The route is open year round, but spring, summer and fall are best.
photos: two left, john marshall; right, marcus yearout
The history of these Native peoples is Scenic Byway (SR-20), which is closed in Check www.dot.wa.gov for road conditions and seasonal closures.
the subject of the Colville Confederated the winter. Check www.dot.wa.gov for road
conditions and seasonal closures.
Tribes Museum, located in an A-frame
in the town of Coulee Dam, on the Gas, Food and Lodging: There are motels, resorts and other accommodations,
reservation across from the Grand including camping and RV parks, as well as small, locally owned restaurants spread across this
100-mile byway. Gas is also readily available, except between Sun Lakes State Park and Grand Coulee.
Coulee Dam.
The museum features murals depicting Connected or Nearby Scenic Byways:
the Nez Perce trail and pre-dam Kettle Okanogan Trails, North Cascades, Cascade Loop
Falls, a collection of vintage photographs Local Resources: Coulee Corridor Scenic Byway www.couleecorridor.com
of Tribal members and the land before Grand Coulee Chamber of Commerce www.grandcouleedam.org
development, plus displays of basketry, Grant County Tourism, www.tourgrantcounty.com
shores of Lake Sammamish. If slow down to cruise through downtown dinner. This has been a sacred gathering
you’re lucky, you’ll get to watch a Issaquah. It is a charming community, place for indigenous people for centuries
national bicycle-racing championship. with a terrific theater troupe that and continues to delight visitors from all
Marymoor Park is home to the state’s performs Broadway musicals to packed over the world. For an extra-spectacular
only velodrome, a 400-meter banked houses, an upscale wine bar and one of show, visit the falls in the spring when
track dedicated to the sport. the region’s best Mexican restaurants. melting snow from the Cascades turns
A salmon hatchery at the end of town up the volume a few notches.
Mercer Slough Nature Park and provides helpful information about Historic downtown Snoqualmie
Environmental Education Center the life cycle of salmon, and if you is worth a cruise while you’re in the
Located on a biologically diverse show up between mid-September and neighborhood. It features unique shops,
320-acre wetland in the heart of urban mid-October, you’ll be treated to the a vibrant restaurant scene, a large tribal
Bellevue, the Mercer Slough Nature Park fascinating sight of thousands of salmon casino, local arts and festivals, and a lot
and Environmental Education Center is returning “home” to spawn in Issaquah of outdoor recreation. It is also home
operated jointly by the City of Bellevue Creek after a lifetime out at sea. The to the Northwest Railway Museum, the
and Pacific Science Center in Seattle. community-wide Salmon Days Festival largest railway museum in Washington
Family workshops, including night is held the first weekend of October. See State, which offers scenic excursions
walks, snowshoe outings and “Scouts www.salmondays.org. aboard antique train cars along a 5-mile
in the Wild” programs, are an excellent Nearby Tiger Mountain provides stretch of historic railway.
way to engage your kids in the natural some of the nicest woodland trails
world as long as you don’t mention the in the area and rewards hikers with North Bend
word “educational.” See www.pacsci.org/ spectacular views of downtown Seattle North Bend is located 30 miles east of
slough for more information. and across the Sound to the Olympic Seattle on I-90. Surrounded by stunning
While in the area, be sure to swing by Mountain Range. This is also a popular vistas of Mount Si, Rattlesnake Ridge
the Bellevue Parks Department’s Mercer hang gliding and paragliding launch and the Cascade Mountains, North
Slough Blueberry Farm, which carries site. Lessons and tandem flights with an Bend has a well-maintained historic
seasonal fresh produce, flowers and other experienced pilot are available. downtown and offers an eclectic mix
farm products. Visitors can pick their of dining and shopping. The area offers
own blueberries when they’re in season, Snoqualmie Falls impressive hiking and bicycling trails
from mid-July to late August, www. Near the town of Snoqualmie, the and paths, including the most famous
ci.bellevue.wa.us/blueberry_farm.htm. mists of the magnificent 268-foot and popular hike in Washington State,
Snoqualmie Falls rise from the river. the Mount Si Trail, a strenuous 8-mile
Into the foothills Enjoy the rush from the observation roundtrip hike with an elevation gain of
Within a few minutes of Bellevue, deck or at the restaurant over lunch or over 4,000 feet.
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mountains to sound greenway
bar and eatery are at once familiar and “to-see” list. The Telephone Museum,
welcoming. The multicultural cemetery at located downtown, provides a unique
the end of town is a fascinating glimpse of peek into the days of the “let me connect
how the cultural and religious segregation you” switchboard operator that few
that separated the citizens of the small people today can remember.
community during life, now continues
through eternity. Stop by the local The “old road” to Thorp and Ellensburg
museum to get the details on this as well For a glimpse of the highway system
rg as on the area’s rich coal-mining history. before the interstates bypassed many of
ild ing , ellensbu
davidso n bu
A new golf community nearby has our country’s small rural communities,
Just west of downtown North Bend, generated much enthusiasm and will follow SR-10 from the south end of Cle
you will find the westernmost trailhead play a vital role in the ongoing economic Elum past decaying wooden irrigation
to the John Wayne Iron Horse State development of the region. Along with flumes to Thorp with its restored grist
Park. This 100-mile trail was once part the links, hiking and biking trails, mill and popular fruit stand/antique store.
of the path of the Chicago-Milwaukee- boutique lodging and excellent dining From Thorp continue to Ellensburg, the
St. Paul-Pacific Railroad and includes overlooking the golf course combine to home to Central Washington University,
several trestles and tunnels. This hiking, make this a worthwhile destination. and check out its historic downtown
biking and equestrian trail leads up and Cle Elum, located just a few miles east district, burgeoning artist community and
over Snoqualmie Pass through a tunnel of Roslyn, features several locally owned fabulous farmers market.
and all the way to the Columbia River restaurants and a popular Italian market Get more information about the
at Vantage. that makes its own specialty sausage and surrounding recreational opportunities
also features a great selection of cheeses and historic communities in the
Snoqualmie Pass and olives. A coffee roaster and historic Swiftwater Corridor Scenic Byway
The summit at Snoqualmie Pass is bakery should also be added to your section of this guide.
best known for its winter recreation
opportunities—and with four ski
areas, hundreds of cross-country skiing
and snowshoeing trails and miles of Planning Tips Driving Distance 101 MILES
snowmobiling roads, these opportunities Getting There: From Seattle, take Drive time 1.5 hours
are nearly endless. But it is also a popular I-90 eastbound. This 101-mile journey
will lead you out of Seattle, through the foothills plan to spend 1 day
photos: left to right, big stock; Mountains to Sound Greenway; marcus yearout
meadows that are nestled in the valleys *I-90 is open year round, but winter driving conditions can change
Gas, Food and Lodging: quickly. Check www.dot.wa.gov for road conditions and closures.
beneath towering peaks. This is one of Every community along the byway, from
the most popular hiking areas in the Bellevue, Issaquah and North Bend on the west side to historic Roslyn, Cle Elum and Ellensburg on the east side,
features excellent lodging that ranges from top-notch Northwest-style resorts to rustic campgrounds. There are
state, due to its close proximity
many good family-owned restaurants that feature locally sourced ingredients and friendly conversation. Just ask
to Seattle. around to find out where the locals gather. Gas can be found in all the communities along the byway, but always
gas up before you head into any of the wilderness areas.
Roslyn and Cle Elum
Connected or Nearby Scenic Byways: Swiftwater Corridor, Yakima River Canyon, Stevens Pass
A historic coal mining community, Greenway alternate loop: For an extremely scenic loop trip back from Ellensburg through Leavenworth,
Roslyn was the home to the popular take US-97 over Blewitt Pass and return to western Washington via US-2 and the Stevens Pass Scenic Byway.
TV series “Northern Exposure,” where
Local ResourceS:
it stood in for the fictional city of Mountain to Sound Greenway Trust www.mtsgreenway.org
Cicely, Alaska. The authentic, original National Scenic Byways www.byways.org/explore/byways/2228
downtown buildings and historic local
30 leavenworth area
STEVENS PASS GREENWAY
time before this byway existed. Getting There: From Seattle, take Drive time 2 hours
I-5 north to Everett, then head east on
US-2 to Monroe (40 miles / 45 minutes). The plan to spend 1 day
Iron Goat Trail 90-mile National Scenic Byway begins at Everett
If you want to experience more and heads east, ending at Peshastin Pinnacles best seasons* year round
railroad history, hike the Iron Goat Trail, State Park on the eastern slopes of the Cascade
Mountains, 10 miles east of Leavenworth. top adventures
which follows a track the Great Northern
Railway abandoned after it built an *The route is open year round.Check www.dot.wa.gov for road
Gas, Food and Lodging: Lodging,
conditions and seasonal closures.
8-mile tunnel in 1929. Old timbers and gas and restrooms are easy to find in the
towns on this byway. Campgrounds are available but very limited, with few amenities. A Savor
tunnels are a constant reminder that
Washington Itinerary: Leavenworth is available at www.agr.wa.gov/Marketing/SmallFarm/SavorWA.aspx.
trains once roared through, and the trail Stop by any of the roadside produce stands to pick up a map of the area’s farms and fruit stands where
has wheelchair-accessible and barrier-free visitors are welcome to tour and taste.
sections.
Connected or Nearby Scenic Byways: Part of the Cascade Loop which includes:
Volunteers for Outdoor Washington North Cascade Scenic Byway, Whidbey Scenic Isle Way, and connects to the Mountains to
offer guided hikes lasting three to six Sound Greenway and the Swiftwater Corridor via Blewett Pass.
hours during the summer. No sign-up
Local Resources: Stevens Pass Greenway www.stevenspassgreenway.org
is necessary; just meet at the Skykomish Sky Valley Visitor Information Center www.skyvalleyvic.net
Ranger Station at 9:30 a.m. Check www. Snohomish County Tourism www.snohomish.org
trailvolunteers.org or call 206-517-3019 Leavenworth Chamber of Commerce www.leavenworth.org
Cascade Loop Association www.cascadeloop.com
for schedule information.
34 lyre river
strait of juan de fuca
HIGHWAY 112
and tie up. If your exploration accessed from SR-112 just west of Sekiu
doesn’t involve a salmon rod, by taking the Hoko-Ozette road. The
Clallam Bay Spit Community 9-mile Sand Point/Cape Alava hiking
Beach County Park is an idyllic trail leads to the Ozette Indian Village
beachcombing, bird-watching Archeological Site, ancient Native
joyce genera
l stor e and picnicking spot. American petroglyphs and the Flattery
For birders, murrelets and murres Rocks National Wildlife Refuge.
To experience this area’s history and lay are prized sightings, while shorebirds, Thousands of the artifacts from the
in supplies for the road ahead, make a ducks and gulls are plentiful. In the fall Ozette dig are now on display at the
stop (milepost 51) at the Joyce General and spring, thousands of Canada geese, Makah Cultural and Research Museum in
Store and Depot Museum. trumpeter swans and sandhill cranes Neah Bay. Traveling west from the Ozette
The museum displays include railroad migrate through this area. If you’re more area, stop at Shipwreck Point Natural
memorabilia and historical photos and of a trail person, hike the Sekiu Trail, also Resources Conservation Area (milepost 6)
artifacts from the small communities in known as the “1-mile beach trail.” The to visit the last Whale Trail marker.
the region. The depot was built of Alaska third Whale Trail marker is at the pullout
yellow cedar around 1915 and is the last overlooking Sekiu at milepost 15. Visit Neah Bay/Cape Flattery
remaining log depot from the Milwaukee www.sekiu.com for more information. The Strait of Juan de Fuca Highway
line. Joyce also has a reputation for wild ends at milepost 0, its western terminus.
blackberry pie, so be sure to try a slice at Lake Ozette and the Sand Point/ The road continuing to Neah Bay, the
a nearby diner. Cape Alava Loop Trail Makah Indian reservation and the most
Lake Ozette, part of Olympic northwestern edge of the lower 48 states
Pillar Point County Park and Pysht National Park, is the third-largest natural is the Cape Flattery Tribal Scenic Byway
Still driving near the shoreline at milepost lake in Washington State and can be found in another section of this guide.
30, stop at Pillar Point County Park for
outstanding birding, with very good chances
of seeing herons, black-bellied plovers,
dunlins, sanderlings, and whimbrels. From
Planning Tips Driving Distance 61 MILES
here the road heads inland, through a stand Getting There: From Seattle, Drive time 1.5 hours (each way)
follow US-101 west to Port Angeles.
photos: left top, john gussman; left bottom, randall hodges; top right, marcus yearout
of massive old-growth Sitka spruce in the Allow three hours for this 85-mile leg, which plan to spend 1–2 days
Pysht River drainage. includes a half-hour ferry crossing from either
Trees logged here were once shipped the Seattle-to-Bainbridge or the Edmonds-to- best seasons year round
Kingston ferry terminal. The 61-mile Strait of
out along the Spruce Railroad, which Juan de Fuca Highway 112 trip officially begins a top adventures
is now a recreational trail along nearby few miles west of Port Angeles on SR-112, along
the north shore of the Olympic Peninsula, and runs west toward Neah Bay. (The scenic byway may also be accessed
Lake Crescent. Sitka spruce thrives in midway from US-101 by taking the SR-113 exit 11 miles north of Forks.) Extend your journey and continue exploring
wet coastal environments, and these trees the northwest tip of the Olympic Peninsula via the 12-mile Cape Flattery Tribal Scenic Byway.
are centuries-old examples of how life on
Gas, Food and Lodging: Motels, cabins and other accommodations can be found in Joyce,
land and water is intertwined along this Clallam Bay, Sekiu, and Neah Bay. Private campgrounds are located along the scenic byway in addition
remarkable byway. to campgrounds found in a few parks. Most parks have public restrooms. Locally owned restaurants and cafes are
found in each town. Gas and supplies are available at mini-marts in the small communities that dot the route.
Sekiu and Clallam Bay Connected or Nearby Scenic Byways:
Sekiu (pronounced SEA-que) and Pacific Coast, Cape Flattery Tribal
Clallam Bay are great spots along this
Local Resources: Strait of Juan de Fuca Highway 112 www.highway112.org
route for fishing and bird watching. Olympic Peninsula Tourism www.olympicpeninsula.org
Charter services are available to take Sekiu-Clallam Bay Chamber www.sekiu.com, Whale Trail www.thewhaletrail.org
you out for deepwater fishing, and if Makah Nation www.makah.com, Neah Bay Chamber www.neahbaychamber.com
Olympic Peninsula Waterfall Trail www.olympicpeninsulawaterfalltrail.com
you brought your own boat, Sekiu has
a marina with several places to launch
White Pass
If it’s majesty you crave, this is your route.
a campground, the park is open April 1 made reservoir, also offers camping, end of May through October; however,
to September 30 and features an 1845 boating and fishing. Hang gliders access to Paradise is available year round.
pioneer house, streams, wetlands, and launching from Dog Mountain can You can also access SR-706 and the
wet prairie. This is a 1930s-era Civilian often be spotted overhead. You may Nisqually entrance to Mount Rainier
Conservation Corps park, and many of spot bobcats, bears, deer, eagles, hawks, National Park near Ashford from
the buildings constructed by the corps herons, and owls, so stay on the lookout. downtown Packwood by taking Skate
remain in use today. This park is also a Creek Road (FS-52), a little-known route
good, easy birding spot—look for quail, Mossyrock and the Cowlitz River that winds gracefully along the creek,
pileated woodpeckers and great horned In Mossyrock, garden enthusiasts featuring dozens of small waterfalls and
owls. This stretch of byway eastward to will want to check out acres of nearby lush forests, as well as providing some
Packwood Lake is part of Audubon’s tulip fields and pick up some bulbs. great fishing and roadside picnicking.
Great Washington State Birding Trail— Also, be sure to grab some locally grown For a quick break in Packwood, swing
Southwest Loop. blueberries—especially if you visit into the local coffee roaster’s and grab
Hungry? One of the best burgers during the annual Blueberry Festival a snack, a cup of “joe” for the road and
in the state can be found about held the first weekend in August. a pound of beans as a gift or robust
4 miles east of Mary’s Corner. The Cowlitz River, which runs reminder of the journey.
Ask around; any local will point through this area, provides several Towering waterfalls (Narada is a
you in the right direction. excellent opportunities to fish for salmon favorite stop) and interpretive nature
and steelhead. Ask at a local mini-mart trails (check out the Trail of Shadows at
Alpine lakes offer plenty of or outfitter for the best fishing holes or Longmire) never cease to bring a sense
great recreation where you can view spawning salmon in of wonder to the adventure and are
For year-round family fun, Ike Kinswa the fall. easily accessible via short hikes from the
State Park, 4 miles north of Mossyrock, main highway. During the winter this
hugs 46,000 feet of shoreline on the Head up to Mount Rainier road terminates at the historic Paradise
freshwater Mayfield Lake. Private, Driving on SR-7 north from Morton Inn, at the very base of the grand lady,
forested campsites have plenty of appeal, to Elbe (where you can take a steam- Mount Rainier. In the summer months,
and the heated cabins near the lakeshore train ride aboard the Mount Rainier the Paradise Valley Road connects to the
are a steal at $60 bucks a night. Hiking, Scenic Railroad) leads to the 115-mile- Stevens Canyon Road.
swimming, fishing (trout, bass, tiger long West Side Loop around the On the way down, the side trip to
muskie), water-skiing and boating Nisqually area and Big Bottom Valley, the Grove of the Patriarchs trail on
(from two ramps) are among the many featuring some of the Mount Rainier Stevens Canyon Road (closed in winter)
recreational options. area’s greatest spectacles. This loop route between Paradise and SR-123 is highly
Nearby Riffe Lake, a massive man- to Paradise is typically open from the recommended. Here an easy 1.5-mile
38
white pass
Forest Service interpretive presentations Getting There: From Seattle go Drive time 2.5 hours
photos: left to right, ben tobin; john marshall; levy/sheckler; ben tobin
(early July through Labor Day, 10 a.m. south on I-5 for approximately 100
miles and take Exit 68 east onto US-12. The plan to spend 1/2 – 2 days
to 4 p.m.) are a great way to get a sense White Pass Scenic Byway corridor crosses the
of the St. Helens story. Add four hours Cascades, from just south of Chehalis to the best seasons* WINTER, SUMMER, fall
for this exceptional round-trip detour. intersection of US-12 and SR-410 on the “dry
top adventures
side” of Washington State near Naches.
*The route is open year round. Check www.dot.wa.gov for winter
Year-round activities Gas, Food and Lodging: Vacation and early spring road conditions.
Sure, there’s plenty to keep you rentals, cozy cabins, motels and bed-
and-breakfast accommodations, in varying price ranges, are plentiful along the byway, as are numerous
busy in spring and summer, but winter
campgrounds. Five rest areas are spread over the 119-mile journey, as are park-your-car viewpoints. Gas is
recreational opportunities are abundant plentiful along the route, but whenever traveling into high mountain country, it’s always a good idea to top off
in these mountains as well. These include the tank whenever you get a chance. Make sure to ask around to find out where the locals gather; that’s where
snow camping, snowboarding, Nordic the best food and conversation will be found.
skiing and general snow play at Paradise, connected or Nearby Local Resources:
an area that includes a ranger station, Scenic Byways: White Pass Scenic Byway www.whitepassbyway.com
a visitor center and the Paradise Inn Chinook Pass, Yakima River Canyon Visit Rainier www.visitrainier.com
cape flattery
40
cape flattery tribal
of gulls (California, glaucous-winged, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., the center includes a weekend of August, when the annual
mew, Thayer’s) and is part of Audubon replica long house, cedar dugout canoes, Makah Days Celebration takes place.
Washington’s Great Washington State whaling and fishing gear, and the tools (Check www.makah.com for specific
Birding Trail—Olympic Loop. Here you of everyday life in the preindustrial age. dates.) Traditional dancing, singing,
can rent a cabin or find camping and RV You’ll come away with a deep respect canoe races and Slahal games are all part
sites that face the ocean. Hobuck also for the way of life and traditions that the of the free event. Attend this celebration
is popular with kayakers and is a good tribe still honors today. Art and baskets and learn why neighboring tribes
beginner surfing beach. by Native weavers are available dubbed these people “Makah,” which
There’s another beach here that to purchase in the center’s store. means “generous with food.” You’ll find
many magazines and television travel A good time to travel the Cape everything from fry bread to traditional
channels have declared one of the most Flattery Tribal Scenic Byway for the cedar-staked salmon cooked around open
spectacular in the world. Shi Shi Beach cultural experience is during the third fires. Nobody leaves Makah Days hungry.
(pronounced shy-shy), approximately
8 miles southwest of Neah Bay, is well
worth a visit for its coastal drama, its
timelessness and the feeling of sanctuary
it imparts to visitors. Access begins with
a 3.3-mile hike leading to an unspoiled
2-mile crescent of beach with arches, sea
stacks and a limitless horizon.
Marine Sanctuary, Tatoosh Island and the Getting There: Neah Bay is Drive time 30 minutes
historic Cape Flattery Lighthouse, first lit approximately 150 miles from Seattle on
plan to spend 1–2 days
in 1857. Migrating birds and whales can the northwest tip of the Olympic Peninsula. Take
a Washington State Ferry from downtown Seattle
often be seen here, as well as sunbathing best seasons* year round
(Seattle-Bainbridge Island Ferry) or Edmonds
otters, seals and sea lions. (Edmonds-Kingston Ferry) to SR-104, cross the Hood top adventures
Canal Bridge, then go on to US-101, past
Blyn, Sequim and Port Angeles.
The Makah Cultural
Take SR-112 along the Strait of Juan de Fuca Scenic Byway, not just to the end of the road but to the end of the
and Research Center
photos: top, Valerie Henschel; bottom, marcus yearout
continent. Driving time one way from Seattle is approximately five hours. The byway begins where SR-112 meets
For an engrossing look at the history the eastern boundary of the Makah Reservation (at that point, SR-112 also becomes known as Bayview Avenue)
of the indigenous people who call this and ends at the rocky outcrops of Cape Flattery’s coastline.
place home, don’t miss the nation’s first Gas, Food and Lodging: Beach resorts, motels, RV parks and campgrounds are the primary lodging
tribal museum, the Makah Cultural and on this route. There are small local restaurants along the way. Be sure to purchase a $10 recreation
Research Center. The 10,000-square-foot permit covering all outdoor activities on the reservation at the Tribal Center, the Makah Marina, Washburn’s
General Store or Makah Mini-Mart, where gas is also available.
museum displays thousands of artifacts
discovered in the archaeological dig of Connected or Nearby Scenic Byways:
the 3,000-year-old Ozette Indian fishing Strait of Juan de Fuca, Pacific Coast
village near Cape Alava. Local Resource:
Open daily (except Thanksgiving, Makah Nation www.makah.com
Christmas and New Year’s Day) from
sourdough
42 mountain, north cascades national park
cascade loop
tubing and cross-country skiing in Forest lands, Lake Chelan has everything
winter. Shops and restaurants galore a camper, angler, explorer or sunbather
round out this necessary stop. could want.
If you write it off as just another Play golf, tan, water ski, swim (yes,
“theme” town, you’ll be making a it’s cold), or take a cruise to Stehekin at
huge mistake. Nestled between the the lake’s northern tip. Accessible only
Snoqualmie and Wenatchee national by boat or seaplane, this tiny village with
forests with access to the Alpine Lakes a permanent population of 75 boasts a
Wilderness, this is rock-climbing, bakery, overnight accommodations and
white-water rafting, kayaking and some of the best “get away from it all”
hiking paradise. So drink the beer, eat remote beauty in the state.
the bratwurst and buy the nutcracker,
but don’t forget to look to the rugged Loup Loup and Twisp
mountains surrounding you for a true From Chelan, drive north to Pateros
Washington “Alps” experience. on SR-153 then west toward Twisp and
Winthrop, or continue north along a
Wenatchee stretch of the Okanogan Trails Scenic
From Leavenworth, continue on Byway to the town of Okanogan and
US-2 to Wenatchee. Located on the then head west on SR-20 over Loup
Columbia River, Wenatchee is best known Loup Pass. In winter, a small ski area and
wenatchee area
Look for restaurants serving locally see the byway on which you just arrived, at Howard Miller Steelhead Park,
grown fare, walk (or ski) the 124 miles unfurling down the mountain. making this area home to the largest
of trails running through town that links Access to the Pacific Crest Trail is population of bald eagles in the lower
the entire Methow Valley or head a few nearby as well as hundreds of its lesser- 48 states. There is an eagle interpretive
miles north to Pearrygin Lake State Park known cousins, leading to thousands of center open December and January,
to camp, fish or water ski. miles of wilderness exploration in both and rafting guides can take you on float
both Okanogan-Wenatchee National trips to view the eagles and other winter
Into the North Cascades Forest and North Cascades National Park. migratory fowl.
Old farmsteads and rolling fields The Diablo and Ross dams and their For more information on the communities
will give way to pine forests as you backwaters are worthwhile stops along and sights along the route, see the North
drive northwest through the this route, especially when minerals in Cascades Scenic Byway section.
Methow Valley on SR-20, then head up the runoff turn these waters vivid green.
into the rugged Tickets for interpretive boat tours on Through the Skagit and toward
North Cascades. Diablo Lake are available in Newhalem, Fidalgo and Whidbey islands
Pull over at the just a couple miles west of Diablo Dam, Leaving the North Cascades, you’ll
Washington Pass www.skagittours.com. While there, stop descend gently through the foothills
overlook; a short at the North Cascades National Park into small communities, lush farmland
paved path leads visitor center for information on other and the tulip fields of the Skagit Valley.
to spectacular sights in the area. The visitor center Look for colorful splashes of yellow
views of Liberty setting is ruggedly beautiful and some (daffodils) or red (tulips) on the horizon
Bell Mountain believe a destination unto itself (open if you come through in March or
and the Early May to October). April—the only place that grows
Winters In the winter, bald eagles congregate more flower bulbs than the Skagit
Spires. to feed on fish along the Skagit River Valley is Holland.
v iew r id g e You’ll also between Marblemount and Rockport A short 5-mile (one-way) detour from
d la ke
t en an
pa say
44
cascade loop
and beaches all around make Whidbey Depart Whidbey Island via the
a destination unto itself. As the Clinton-Mukilteo ferry to return to the
culmination of the Cascade Loop Scenic Puget Sound area, or continue west via
Byway, it gilds the lily—or, in this case, the Coupeville-Port Townsend ferry.
the tulip. (See also: Whidbey Island See www.wsdot.wa.gov/ferries for rate
Scenic Isle Way.) and schedule information.
Fidalgo and Whidbey islands Getting There: The 440-mile route *A 36-mile portion of the route along the North Cascades Highway
(SR-20) from milepost 134 to 171 closes during the winter
The byway winds north to Anacortes contains three of the state’s designated
(mid-November to early May). Check www.dot.wa.gov for road
scenic byways described in this guide. It begins
or heads south across Deception Pass to conditions and seasonal closures.
30 miles north of Seattle in Everett, then heads
Oak Harbor on Whidbey Island. across the Stevens Pass Greenway to Wenatchee, continuing north past Lake Chelan toward the southern end of the
A few miles from I-5, Anacortes on Okanogan Scenic Byway. Continue westward through Winthrop and the stunning Methow Valley, taking the North
Fidalgo Island is headquarters for whale Cascades Scenic Byway through Washington Pass before dropping back down to the west side past the turquoise-
green backwaters of the Ross and Diablo dams. The route continues on SR-20 through the Skagit Valley before
watching excursions. Take a cruise to see crossing Fidalgo Island to Anacortes then back to SR-20 and south over Deception Pass and heading south along
a resident pod of orcas or visiting gray the Whidbey Scenic Isle Way. A 20-minute trip across the sound on the Clinton-Mukilteo Ferry completes this loop.
whales. Downtown Anacortes has 70 Gas, Food and Lodging: Accommodations of every sort are spread over the byway’s 440 miles,
life-sized murals, restaurants, antiques as are restaurants, gas stations and restrooms. Savor Washington itineraries for the area are available
and a waterfront park. at www.agr.wa.gov/Marketing/SmallFarm/SavorWA.aspx
If you’re heading to Oak Harbor, this connected or Nearby Scenic Byways: Stevens Pass Greenway, North Cascades Scenic
route crosses the soaring Deception Highway, Whidbey Scenic Isle Way, Chuckanut Drive, Okanogan Trail, Coulee Corridor
Pass Bridge onto the second-longest
Local Resource:
island in the United States, Whidbey Cascade Loop Association www.cascadeloop.com
Island. Quaint towns, delicious mussels
Cascade Valleys
This convenient ramble follows SR-202 from
Woodinville along the fertile Snoqualmie River Valley.
o t to m
o the b
t r ail t
FALLS
N
SNO Q UALMIE
ative Americans established (and counting), the Woodinville
this route, and the culmination wine industry attracts over a half- amateur bike racers at the only
of today’s byway, North Bend, was a million visitors annually. banked racing velodrome in the state.
seasonal meeting place for local tribes Visitors will also find a variety Dog people will love the 40-acre
and the end of the swim for salmon of entertaining activities including off-leash play area, and this urban oasis
unable to continue upstream past outdoor concerts in an estate setting, is also home to plenty of wildlife—
Snoqualmie Falls. hot-air-balloon rides and exploring on muskrats, coyotes, river otters and
There is no roughing it on this road foot, horseback or wheels along the painted turtles can be seen most of the
trip. Taste local wine and handcrafted picturesque Sammamish River Trail. year. More than 150 bird species have
ale; dine in some of the Northwest’s Wined out? One of the nation’s largest been sighted at the park, including barn
most exclusive restaurants; attend open- handcrafted brewing facilities is also owls that occasionally take up residence
air concerts by world famous performers. located nearby. in the windmill.
Even adventures are leisurely; take a
picnic to Marymoor Park and watch the Redmond and Marymoor Park The road to Fall City
dizzying bicycle races at the state’s only Following SR-202 south for 6 miles, This entire byway runs along a fertile
velodrome or stand in the mist of the you will arrive in Redmond, a great corridor that’s a gardener’s delight—
270-foot Snoqualmie Falls, then stroll to blend of urban-rural experiences. Serene, there are multiple nurseries and a
the nearby resort for its legendary four- meandering bike paths, outdoor concerts, bamboo farm. And at the intersection
course breakfast. family events and fabulous shopping all of SR-202 and SR-203 is Fall City. This
make it a good stop on the byway. is organic farm central. For generations,
Woodinville You can’t miss Marymoor Park, families have come to this area’s u-pick
Located 17 miles northeast of Seattle Redmond’s recreational hub. Located on farms for strawberries, blueberries,
in the Sammamish Valley, Woodinville the shores of Lake Sammamish, it offers pumpkins or whatever is in season. This
combines small-town charm with some something for everyone. Bring your is where many of Puget Sound’s most
of the top-rated wineries in the state. own lawn chairs for outdoor movies in exclusive restaurants source their farm-
With over 50 wineries and tasting rooms the summer, or cheer professional and fresh ingredients.
46
CASCADE VALLEYs
There is a nice little family-friendly North Bend and Mount Si Si, the mountain in North Bend’s
golf course in the heart of town and The cities of Snoqualmie and North backyard. Said to be the most-climbed
another one across the river heading Bend will look familiar to anyone who mountain in the United States, Mount
toward Snoqualmie. Both are affordable recalls David Lynch’s somewhat macabre Si offers glorious views from its summit,
and are perfect, non-intimidating television series “Twin Peaks.” Here, you’ll extending all the way to Puget Sound.
courses for people trying to learn or find the restaurant referred to in Agent With a 3,700-foot elevation change, the
work on their game. Cooper’s famous line, “A good cherry pie 8-mile round-trip hike is particularly
and a “damn fine cup of coffee.” popular on summer days, but it’s also
Heading toward Snoqualmie Falls Outdoor enthusiasts have long flocked open during winter and spring.
From the heart of Fall City, drive to North Bend for its extensive trail The trail leads to the summit ridge
across the bridge over the Snoqualmie system including the 29-mile hiking at the base of the so-called “Haystack.”
River and follow SR-202 to the right and biking Snoqualmie Valley Trail. But From there, the short ascent to the
(southeast). In a few miles, you’ll the best-known trail here is the one that actual summit is a scramble that can be
encounter one of Washington’s most takes visitors to the summit of Mount dangerous in wet or snowy conditions.
popular attractions. Snoqualmie
Falls is a 270-foot-high waterfall with
vantage points above, below and
beside the waterworks.
Most people view the falls from the
easily accessible upper pavilion, but try
the trail to the bottom. It’s steep and
a mile long, but worth every step. You
will never forget the feeling of standing
under a curtain of spray from the falls,
especially during spring when runoff
thunders over the drop.
aboard antique railroad coaches resorts to campgrounds and RV parks. You can enjoy conditions and seasonal closures.
gourmet dining in Woodinville or at Snoqualmie Falls,
through the Upper Snoqualmie Valley,
but the small local restaurants along the route are where you have the best chance to connect with the locals. In
www.trainmuseum.org. North Bend, don’t forget to order a slice of that cherry pie. You’ll find a gas station in every community along the way.
The Northwest Railway Museum
Connected or Nearby Scenic Byways:
also displays Indian and pioneer
Mountain to Sound Greenway, Swiftwater Corridor
artifacts, as does North Bend’s
Snoqualmie Valley Historical Local Resources: Woodinville Tourism www.ci.woodinville.wa.us/play/tourism.asp
Redmond Tourism www.experienceredmond.com
Museum. Both are dedicated to
Snoqualmie Valley Chamber of Commerce www.snovalley.org/vg_attractions.html
preserving the area’s native and Outside Seattle www.outsideseattle.org
pioneer stories.
Chuckanut Drive
Chuckanut Drive
A premier byway sometimes referred to as Washington’s Big Sur (perhaps Little Sur would be
more fitting), the route hugs the sheer sandstone cliffs of the Chuckanut Mountains.
48
chuckanut drive
leads to the shoreline, with its views stop and browse. Walk the cobblestone
of Chuckanut Bay and Clark’s Point. streets of the historic district, with
About 1.5 miles south of Fairhaven, restored nineteenth-century brick
the North Chuckanut Mountain buildings now housing bookstores,
Trailhead, located on Chuckanut boutiques and restaurants, and go back
Drive, opens onto a meandering to a time when Fairhaven was predicted
5-mile path with extraordinary to become a major city.
anut s
hor e sightseeing for hikers and A vibrant seasonal farmers’ market
chuck
equestrians. The final 3 miles comprise and the Alaska Ferry terminal are
maintained by volunteers. the Chuckanut Ridge Trail, where among the other attractions of this
Pass bat caves on the way up, gulp in the area wildlife includes red fox, deer, popular destination. For a traveler
salty air and appreciate the only place in woodpecker and belted kingfisher. looking for a full-day side trip,
the state where you can hike a Cascade passenger-only cruises for the
mountain peak whose feet are in the The Historic Fairhaven District San Juan Islands depart from the
sea. Along this tough 6-mile round trip, Built in the 1890s, the Fairhaven Fairhaven Cruise Terminal.
watch for abrupt drop-offs and enjoy district provides a great opportunity to
the spectacular views of the Olympic
Mountains, the Skagit River flats and
the San Juans. Planning Tips
Getting There: The southern
Larrabee State Park
entrance of Chuckanut Drive is
Six miles south of Bellingham, about an hour north of downtown Seattle, just
Larrabee became Washington’s first state north of Burlington at I-5 Exit 231, or you can
park in 1915. With two freshwater lakes, access it from the north by taking Exit 250 into
Fairhaven. Chuckanut Drive is a narrow, two-
dense woodlands, sandstone formations, lane cliff-hanger road with almost no shoulder
14 miles of multiple-use trails, wetlands, and is shared by many bicyclists, so please
creeks and the beaches of Samish and drive slowly and use caution.
Chuckanut bays to explore, this park can
Gas, Food and Lodging: Hotels,
keep a family busy for days. motels, bed-and-breakfasts and gas
One of Larabee’s biggest attractions stations are available at either end of the drive.
is the Interurban Trail, a route once Camping is available at Larrabee State Park.
From Bow-Edison to Fairhaven, this is an area
traveled by an electric train. Now a that takes great pride in its locally grown food;
favorite path for joggers, walkers and you’ll find abundant boutique restaurants, farm
bikers, it runs a lovely 6 miles through stands and shellfish growers along this byway.
Bring an empty cooler.
mossy maples to Old Fairhaven Parkway.
A Savor Washington itinerary: Skagit
Valley is available at www.agr.wa.gov/
photos: LEFT TO RIGHT, brett bAUNTON; JOHN MARSHALL
Columbia
River Gorge
Scenic Byway
columbia river
Columbia River Gorge The Columbia River cut this dramatic gap between
the Cascade Mountains on its way to the Pacific Ocean eons ago.
50
columbia river gorge
Planning Tips
Getting There: From Seattle, take I-5 south for 165 miles (3 hours) to Vancouver, and then
follow the signs to SR-14 eastbound to Camas/Washougal. The 100-mile byway is a slice of SR-14,
taken eastward, following the Washington side of the Columbia River.
Driving Distance 80 MILES
Gas, Food and Lodging: There is a wide range of accommodations and restaurants along this
Drive time 2 hours byway. Campers should be prepared for occasional high winds. Gas is plentiful.
plan to spend 1–2 days Connected or Nearby Scenic Byways:
Lewis and Clark Trail, Yakama Scenic Byway
best seasons* year round
photos: patrick bennett
Local ResourceS:
top adventures
National
Scenic Byways www.byways.org/explore/byways/2235
*The route is open year round.Check www.dot.wa.gov for road conditions.
Mount Adams Chamber of Commerce www.mtadamschamber.com
Skamania County Chamber of Commerce www.skamania.org
Vancouver USA Tourism www.visitvancouverusa.com
Cranberry Coast
Cranberry Coast
Fly a kite, dig a clam, hook a salmon or catch a wave.
It’s a route that epitomizes life by the ocean.
cranberry coast
52
cranberry coast
community and quiet bayside town, is you’ll see evidence of the harvest in the
the county seat and home to the Pacific form of massive piles of oyster shells.
County Historical Society and Museum. Pick up ultra-fresh Willapa Bay oysters
The Pacific County Courthouse, with its at the many seafood markets in the
magnificent art-glass dome and murals, surrounding communities.
was erected in 1910 and is on the The Willapa Bay National Wildlife
National Register of Historic Places. Refuge is popular with outdoor
enthusiasts looking to relax by bird
Willapa Bay watching, kayaking, hiking and more.
The second-largest estuary on the The bay surrounds Long Island, an
Pacific Coast, Willapa Bay is a shallow uninhabited part of the refuge accessible
body of water formed by the 28-mile by private boat that has only primitive
cranberry coast
Long Beach Peninsula, the sand spit that camping sites. Here you’ll find an
juts out north from the Columbia River. ancient stand of western red cedar, black
else of interest that floats in from the This pristine estuary is known for bear, elk, bobcat, and other protected
ocean) and July’s Windriders Kite Festival. growing some of the finest oysters in the wildlife, as well as a spring migration of
The story of the juicy little indigenous world. As you wind through this area, over 100,000 shorebirds.
fruit is told at Grayland’s Furford
Cranberry Museum (named for a
harvesting machine built by Julius
Furford), which displays a unique
collection of antique equipment and Planning Tips
materials related to the cranberry industry. Getting There: From Seattle,
Nearby Grayland Beach State Park is go south on I-5 to US-101 near
a 412-acre park with campsites located Olympia, then west on SR-8/US-12 to
Aberdeen (110 miles / 2 hours). Follow
along spectacular ocean frontage close
SR-105 from Aberdeen around the
to a mile and a half long. Popular with coast from Westport to South Bend
kite flyers and beachcombers, the park on Willapa Bay.
is also good for clamming and crabbing,
Gas, Food and Lodging:
saltwater fishing and birding. Hotels, motels, historic inns,
bed-and-breakfasts, RV parks and
Tokeland, Raymond and South Bend campgrounds are available along this
byway. Be sure to stop by the local
As the road winds along the coastline,
visitor center to get a restaurant
you may want to consider the 4-mile recommendation; there are several
detour to Tokeland. The quiet fishing excellent seafood restaurants and
village and marina are picturesque. A historic diners throughout the region.
Hidden Coast
Hidden Coast
Prepare to compose
your thoughts and
write your
next novel.
54 c oa s t
pacific
hidden coast
beneath the trees subsided, and the forest coming to the beach on the Northern guides will help
was flooded over. You can reach the Pacific. Pay a visit to the Museum of the you appreciate
submerged forest by canoe or kayak North Beach for more information about the area’s rich
from an informal launch site in the the area’s history, www.moclips.org. plant and animal
middle of the town. Today, a visitor can enjoy the beach habitat through
at Moclips and hike along the Moclips stories dating back
Seabrook River, which forms the boundary untold centuries.
A vacation beach town founded in between the town and the Quinault The Quinault
2004, Seabrook is worth a visit for its Indian Nation. Museum, in
artfully designed village greens, walking Taholah, is dedicated
paths of crushed oyster shells and houses Quinault Indian Nation in Taholah to acquiring, organizing and
that resemble New England cottages. The Hidden Coast Scenic Byway protecting the material cultural
Seabrook has dozens of orange and concludes at the literal end of the road, heritage of the nation’s people, and to
yellow bicycles for use in cruising the where SR-109 meets the Quinault River. preserving traditional ceremonial and
neighborhood, but there are also plenty In the village of Taholah, on Quinault subsistence activities.
of off-road trails and old logging roads Indian Nation land, the Quinault Extensive photo collections can be
for serious riders to enjoy. River enters the ocean. This area is a viewed, and a library is evolving. The
When in season (October through popular tribal fishery during fall salmon museum is open Monday through
May), razor-clam digging is one of the migration. Visitors will enjoy watching Friday. Visit www.quinaultindiannation.
area’s most popular activities. Come both the salmon run and these master com for more information about the
prepared with rain gear and rubber fishermen at work. Tribal fish-and-wildlife tribe, guide services and the museum.
boots, then buy a license, rent a shovel
and gather some free clamming advice at
the local mercantile.
56
lewis & clark trail
the banks of the Patit Creek, near the steelhead and sturgeon), and those old- Sacajawea State Park off US-12.
present site of the Columbia County growth pines that caught the expedition’s This day-use park at the confluence
Courthouse. This event is represented attention still stand. Don’t miss the of the Snake and Columbia rivers
in a full-scale, historically authentic restrooms—they were built in the 1930s commemorates the Shoshone Indian
model on those banks and includes an with stones from the nearby river. woman who traveled with Lewis and
interpretive kiosk. Clark. The corps camped on this spot
Dayton’s Columbia County Wildlife refuges near the Tri-Cities in 1805. Today, an interpretive center
Courthouse is the oldest operational Further along on US-12, McNary highlights Sacajawea’s role in the
photos: left to right, patrick bennett; john marshall; patrick bennett; Peter Marbach
county seat in the state, and most National Wildlife Refuge, southeast of expedition. Grassy lawns, a play area
downtown buildings are on the National Pasco in the Columbia River Basin, has and swimming beach, and a recreated
Register of Historic Places. Excellent a reputation for supporting waterfowl Indian village make this a stop with
restaurants and recreation ranging from populations in enormous numbers. something for everyone.
skiing to winery tours make Dayton a The refuge includes over 15,000
place that shouldn’t be overlooked, even acres of diverse habitat with huge The expedition joins the Columbia
if it’s on the “Forgotten Trail.” concentrations of Canada geese, Here the byway heads south on
mallards and widgeons. I-97, then west on SR-14 through the
Lewis and Clark Trail State Park Less remote is an urban wildlife Umatilla National Wildlife Refuge, a
Lewis and Clark Trail State Park, 5 area, Bateman Island, in the Richland- Mecca for birders.
miles west of Dayton, is on the shores Kennewick-Pasco region. The corps At Maryhill, with its well-known art
of the Touchet (TOO-shee) River. The once watched Native Americans there museum and Stonehenge replica, this
expedition passed through this area catching and drying fish from the byway joins the Columbia River Gorge
on its return route, and Lewis and Columbia River. Scenic Byway for 100 miles, until it
Clark made note in their journals of reaches the town of Washougal.
the ponderosa pines growing here. The Sacajawea State Park On this leg of the journey you’ll see
37-acre camping park has 1,300 feet of As the modern-day expedition windsurfers plying the waters between
river shoreline (where you can fish for continues toward Pasco, look for basalt cliffs and pass through small towns
with plenty of personality. For more Vancouver and the Ridgefield Paddling past Grays Point, the team
details about this grand stretch, see the National Wildlife Refuge retreated from miserable weather to a
Columbia River Gorge Scenic Byway In Vancouver, history comes to life at cove (which Clark later referred to as
section of this guide. the Fort Vancouver National Historic ‘this dismal nitch’), where they were
Site, the location of an early Hudson’s pinned for six stormy days by fierce
Beacon Rock Bay Company fur-trading outpost. Daily winds and waves.
It’s hard to miss Beacon Rock, jutting interpretive presentations by staff in A picnic area and restrooms are
photos: top left to right, levy/sheckler; patrick bennett; john marshall; bottom, patrick bennett
skyward just west of North Bonneville. period clothing bring the life and times available, as well as an information
Indeed, the Corps of Discovery noticed of these rugged trappers and traders into booth in the summer.
it too. Mentioned in the Lewis and sharp focus.
Clark journals, this is where the corps The Ridgefield National Wildlife Station Camp’s historic vote
first noticed tidal influences and knew Refuge, northwest of Vancouver, has A few miles west of Dismal Nitch
it was getting close to the ocean. Today, 5,218 acres of marshes, grasslands and is Station Camp, located at Middle
visitors can climb the steep path (with woodlands for waterfowl and other Village, a seasonal Chinook Indian
a handrail) to the top of this 848-foot- wetland wildlife, which makes it easy Village. The Corps spent ten days here
high basalt volcano core for a spectacular to understand why this was another and each member had an equal voice in
view of the gorge. Corps of Discovery campsite. The refuge deciding where the expedition would
d gull s
features Cathlapotle Plankhouse, a full- make winter camp. This historic vote
pelican s an
scale replica of a Chinook-style cedar included Clark’s devoted childhood
house that would have been common companion (and slave) York, and the
during the corps’ journey west. Native American woman, Sacajawea.
Some historians call Station Camp “the
Dismal Nitch Independence Hall of the American
Clark’s Dismal Nitch, between Naselle West.” It would be more than fifty years
and Chinook on the lower Columbia before African Americans could vote,
River, was the scene in 1805 of a and more than 100 years before the
terrible time for the Corps of Discovery. right was extended to women.
58
lewis & clark TRAIL
Planning Tips
Getting There: The 572-mile scenic byway begins on the Snake River in Clarkston
Driving Distance 572 MILES
(named for William Clark) on the Washington-Idaho border and runs west to the Pacific
Ocean along the Columbia River at Washington’s southern border. From Seattle, Clarkston is a Drive time 12 hours
315-mile, five-hour drive, so plan a full day to get to the eastern entrance of this byway.
plan to spend 3 days
Gas, Food and Lodging: There are plenty of places to stay on this byway, from
campgrounds to comfortable hotels. Public restrooms are available at all of the best seasons* spring, summer, fall
parks you’ll find along the route. Two Savor Washington Itineraries: Long Beach Peninsula and
Long Beach Culinary Loop are available at www.agr.wa.gov/Marketing/SmallFarm/SavorWA.aspx top adventures
Connected or Nearby Scenic Byways: *The route is open year round. Check www.dot.wa.gov for road
conditions in winter.
Columbia River Gorge, Pacific Coast, Palouse, Yakama
Local Resources:
Lewis & Clark Trail www.lewisandclarktrail.com/section4/washington.htm Mount Adams Chamber of Commerce www.mtadamschamber.com
Hells Canyon Visitor Bureau www.hellscanyonvisitor.com Skamania County Chamber of Commerce www.skamania.org
Long Beach Peninsula Visitors Bureau www.funbeach.com Vancouver USA Tourism www.visitvancouverusa.com
Mt. Baker
Peek-a-boo Mount Baker views tease you as
you climb toward recreation, sightseeing
and a break from the ordinary.
Mt. Baker
60
MT. Baker
Glacier Public Service Center February, this race through the Picture Lake, Heather Meadows
Just past Glacier, stop by the U.S. natural half-pipe has evolved into an and Artist Point
Forest Service Glacier Public Service international event, attracting the At the byway’s end, Heather Meadows
Center (closed mid-March to late April) sport’s top pros from around the world. (closed winters) is one photo op after
to enjoy the cultural and natural-history Spectators seem to have as much fun another; capture Mount Shuksan from
exhibits. The staff rangers can provide as the competitors. Save the date, and Picture Lake and Mount Baker from Artist
excellent hiking-trail information, issue visit www.lbs.mtbaker.us for more Point. Many people mistakenly take photos
backcountry wilderness camping permits information. of Shuksan thinking it is Baker. Just
and give you maps, travel guides and tips The White Salmon Day Lodge prides remember that volcanoes are cone shaped
that will enhance your visit. itself on serving locally grown food (try and head to Artist Point for the Baker shot!
a Man Pie), and there’s a shop and gear A 1-mile interpretive loop trail
Horseshoe Bend Trail rental here also. Cross-country skiers will introduces visitors to the geology, flora
For real outdoor adventure, get on find trails, and in the summer there’s and fauna of the area and is the perfect
the Horseshoe Bend Trail in Douglas Fir ample hiking in the area. leg stretch after this gorgeous drive.
Campground (alongside the North Fork
of the Nooksack River) for cross-country
skiing in the winter and hiking in spring
and summer. It’s the best kind of contrast;
an easygoing trek right next to a raging
white-water section of the Nooksack.
Nooksack Falls
About 4 miles past Horseshoe Bend,
take the short detour to view cascading
Nooksack Falls, especially rewarding
during the late spring or early summer
runoff. The road to the 80-foot falls is
a short drive off the byway to a parking
area with an easy walk to the viewpoint. Planning Tips
Getting There: From Seattle, go
Silver Fir Campground north on I-5 for 90 miles to Bellingham.
The byway runs along SR-542 for all of its 58 miles Driving Distance 58 MILES one way*
Just 12 miles east of the community
as it climbs from Bellingham to Artist Point on the
of Glacier, Silver Fir Campground, Drive time 1.5 hours
flanks of Mount Baker.
open mid-May to early September,
plan to spend 1 days
is set alongside the North Fork of Gas, Food and Lodging:
Lodges, bed and breakfasts, vacation
the Nooksack River. This is a very best seasons year round**
rentals and camping can be found along the byway.
photos: Top, BRETT baunton; bottom, patrick bennett
pleasant place to camp while exploring Small locally owned restaurants, a brewery serving top adventures
the area’s scenic wonders. Wildlife handcrafted beer and an excellent vineyard and
sightings include mountain goats, deer winery are all waiting to be discovered as well. * Distance from I-5 in Bellingham to Artist Point just beyond the
Fuel is available in Nugents Corner, Deming, Mount Baker ski resort.
and elk; watch out for black bears in **The route is open year round. Check www.dot.wa.gov for road
Kendall and Maple Falls. Maple Falls is the last conditions and seasonal closures.
the woods. stop for gas while traveling east on the byway.
62
north cascades
scenic highway
Over-the-top views fields, cheese that comes from happy the dangerous art of parachuting into
Rainy Pass (4,875 feet) and, 4 miles local goats, even regionally roasted timbered mountains to fight forest fires.
east, Washington Pass (5,477 feet) bring coffee and handcrafted ale and cideries! This teaching site was established in
travelers face to face with terrific views A sunset drive to catch the nearly 360- 1939 and remains a valuable school
of Liberty Bell Mountain as well as a degree valley views from Sun Mountain for smoke jumpers all over the western
panoramic view of the Methow Valley Lodge is a perfect way to end the day. United States.
far below. The Pacific Crest Trail crosses The byway ends in Twisp, a tiny town
the highway near Rainy Pass. Twisp and the Smokejumpers Base that’s transforming itself into an arts
An unnerving but fun footnote On a back road that connects community complete with a local acting
to realize is that both of these passes Winthrop and Twisp, visitors are troupe and galleries.
were once at the bottom of the welcome May through October to Look for its local brew pub, bakery
Pacific Ocean! watch the action at the North Cascades using Bluebird Grain Farms whole-grain
Smokejumper Base, the birthplace of flour and farmers market.
Descending into the Methow Valley
A popular hiking, biking and cross-
country skiing destination, the Methow
Valley includes the communities of
Mazama and Winthrop. The 125-mile
Methow Community Trail system
connects these towns to the entire valley.
Near Winthrop, this trail system crosses
the 275-foot Tawlks-Foster Suspension
Bridge over the Methow River—look for
harlequin ducks here in the winter. This
pathway is a part of Audubon’s Great
Washington State Birding Trail—Cascade
Driving Distance 140 MILES
Loop, http://wa.audubon.org.
Like to ski but find the trails too Drive time 3 hours
tame? A heli-ski operation near Mazama
plan to spend 1–2 days
takes adventurers into terrain typically
reserved for Warren Miller films. best seasons* summer, fall
Planning Tips top adventures
The Old West town of Winthrop Getting There: From Seattle, head
*Portions of SR-20 close seasonally (typically from mid-November
You may feel as though you’ve entered north on I-5 for 60 miles and take Exit
through early May). Check www.dot.wa.gov for road conditions and
a movie set when you encounter the 230 onto SR-20 to get to Sedro-Woolley. Follow seasonal closures.
SR-20 east to the byway’s end at Twisp.
wooden sidewalks and false-fronted
buildings of Winthrop. This town gave Gas, Food and Lodging: Indoor and outdoor lodging—from bed-and-breakfasts to luxury resorts
itself a Western makeover in the early to campgrounds—is plentiful along this byway. Dining ranges from resort extravagance to small places
featuring regionally grown fare. There are gas stations in most towns along the route, but Marblemount is your
’70s to attract travelers coming over the
last gas stop before crossing Washington Pass and dropping into the Methow Valley and Winthrop. See the
pass. It worked. But this town isn’t all Cascade Loop Scenic Byway section of this guide for more information about the North Cascades Highway.
kitsch: some of the buildings really are
Connected or Nearby Scenic Byways:
historical, the rhythm-and-blues festival
Cascade Loop, Stevens Pass Greenway, Okanogan Trails
photos: patrick bennett
64
north pend oreille
Metaline Falls
A few miles from the Canadian border
is Metaline Falls, a regional center for
culture and art, which was cited in John
Villani’s book “The 100 Best Small Art
Towns in America.” Metaline Falls features
a couple of historic buildings including the
Washington Hotel (where Wyatt Earp is Planning Tips
rumored to have stayed), which boasts Getting There: From Seattle, take
an atmospheric Old West decor. I-90 or US-2 to Spokane, then head north
Elsewhere in town, the Kirtland to Newport, then take SR-20 north to Tiger near
the Washington-Idaho border (375 miles / seven
Cutter Theatre was originally a school hours). The 27-mile byway officially begins at the
but now houses a performing arts center junction of SR-20 and SR-31 at the town of Tiger,
and library. The building is listed on the and ends at the Canadian border.
State as well as the National Register of
Gas, Food and Lodging: There is
Historic Places. a small selection of hotels, motels, RV
parks and campgrounds on the byway, providing
Sullivan Lake year-round accommodations for visitors. Small
Driving Distance 27 MILES restaurants provide plenty of good food and local
Sullivan Lake, southeast of Metaline flavor. Gas is available in Ione and Metaline.
Falls, makes a great side trip and is home Drive time 40 minutes
to loons, blue herons, red-necked grebes, Connected or Nearby
plan to spend 1 day Scenic Byways:
white-tailed deer, black bears, grizzly International Selkirk Loop, Sherman Pass
photos: PATRICK BENNETT
bears, and gray wolves. Patient anglers best seasons* spring, summer, fall
okanogan vista
Okanogan Trails
Running alongside the Okanogan River, in the middle of north central Washington,
the road is populated with vast views, small towns and vineyards.
A birder’s dream
and Canada, frequented by Native discovered by a hippie counterculture Part of the great Pacific Flyway, this
Americans, cattlemen and gold seeking to return to such a time. As a route is a birder’s delight. Hundreds of
prospectors. Today you’re more likely result, alternative energy, organic farming species of neotropical migrant birds can
to find families in cars crammed full and self-sustenance is part of this area’s be seen in spring and fall, as well as large
of camping gear, heading toward a few lifestyle, along with snowmobiling, numbers of hawk breeds, ospreys, eagles
sunny days on a pine-forested lakeshore. hunting and small-town values. The and kestrels. In the winter, birders can
Historical touchstones, such as gold Okanogan is big enough for all of it. find Lapland longspurs, gyrfalcons and
mining camps, bald eagles.
sawmills and cattle Lake Pateros
ranches from long At the confluence of the Columbia Chiliwist Wildlife Area
ago, dot the route. and Methow rivers, Lake Pateros is a North from Pateros and Brewster is
The old times are perfect playground for fishing and water the 5,000-acre Chiliwist Wildlife Area.
palpable along this play of all descriptions. With two boat Various habitat types and natural and
byway; buy worms launches, eight docks and a waterfront man-made irrigation provide a home for
and rent a skiff park, with public restroom and showers, mule deer, bighorn sheep, moose, black
at a resort where this site is an open invitation to hang out bears, cougars, waterfowl, wild turkeys,
fishermen have for a few hours or a few days. and grouse. This is a popular area for
been gathering Hikers will find hundreds of miles of deer and game-bird hunting.
for decades, trails, including several thousand acres of
or pick up managed public lands within one hour Caribou Trail
sun-warmed of the town of Pateros. Those areas allow This byway follows a stretch of the
peaches from hiking through pristine shrub steppe and Caribou Trail, the name given to a legendary
a fourth- riparian habitats. In winter, snowmobiles 800-mile route winding its way north from
ev ent
generation are welcome on many trails and can also Oregon to Canada. The trail was used for
ede
stam p
omak
66
okanogan trails
centuries by native Tribes and later by fur fishing and snow play take over in colder for public use. Historic Enloe Dam,
brigades, gold miners and cattle drives. months. Anglers can test their mettle mounted on a natural waterfall of the
The Okanogan County Historical against smallmouth bass, rainbow trout largely unexplored Similkameen River,
Society has a sign in the town of and kokanee. is visible from the trail.
Okanogan marking a section of the
traditional trail that is now part of the Oroville’s Similkameen Trail Growing winery region
scenic byway. Hike or bike the historic The Okanogan region is near
Similkameen Trail from Oroville to the northern tip of the massive
Sinlahekin Wildlife Area Enloe Dam and explore the rich history Columbia Valley wine-growing
Located 7 miles west of tiny Riverside, of the Okanogan. A part of the Pacific appellation, and consequently a
19,500-acre Sinlahekin is the oldest Northwest National Scenic Trail, this growing number of wineries and
wildlife area in Washington, with the stretch was recently opened and features tasting rooms have popped up. Check
first parcels having been purchased in breathtaking views, especially from www.washingtonwine.org/explore or
1939 using federal funds to preserve the old railroad trestle improved www.cascadevalleywinecountry.com.
mule-deer winter range.
Birders come here to view birds
of prey, shorebirds, songbirds and Planning Tips
waterfowl. Mammal sightings include
Getting There: From Seattle, take
black bears, bighorn sheep and moose in
US-2 over Stevens Pass to Wenatchee,
addition to elk and deer herds. then head north on US-97 to Pateros (200 miles
/ 3.5 hours). Pateros, at the confluence of the
Omak Stampede and Methow and Columbia rivers, is the starting point
of this byway, which runs on US-97 between
Indian Encampment Pateros and Oroville on the Canadian border.
One of the most colorful Tribal An alternate route follows the North Cascades
cultural events of the year is the Highway on SR-20 through the Methow Valley.
Omak Stampede and Indian Gas, Food and Lodging: Motels,
Encampment held each August in inns, RV parks, campgrounds and gas
Omak. Visit www.omakstampede.org stations are all plentiful along the byway. You
can also find some unique guest ranches that
for more information.
reflect the pioneer spirit by offering cabins and
cottages alongside features like horse hotels.
Conconully Lake There are several locally owned restaurants from
Big, blue Conconully Lake is the which to choose. Pateros, Omak and Tonasket
each feature bakeries and delis that source from
centerpiece of this busy recreation area
local farmers and have received wide acclaim.
and the heart of a remote and charming A restaurant housed in a former soda-bottling
little town of the same name. Pleasant plant in downtown Omak now serves as one of
hiking along the Muckamuck Trail leads the area’s best sources of entrees made from
locally grown ingredients. In Okanogan, there are
to wildflower-laden meadows and views Driving Distance 83 MILES three artisan-cheese makers (two offer lessons)
of the Okanogan Highlands. Fishing and and an organic grocery store.
Drive time 2 hours
birding are popular activities here.
Connected or Nearby
plan to spend 1–2 days
Scenic Byways: Cascade Loop,
Osoyoos Lake Veteran’s Coulee Corridor, North Cascades
best seasons* spring, summer, fall
Memorial Park
photos: patrick bennett
Pacific Coast
Pacific Coast
Trace a meandering path almost all the way around the Olympic Mountains,
and let it brush against oyster-packed inlets, isolated lakes, rain forests and Pacific beaches.
Scenic Byway begins in Olympia and the captivating shoreline of splendid Victorian seaport of Port Townsend
follows scenic US-101, first north along Hood Canal for a long stretch. Before If you have time, consider a three-hour
Hood Canal, then westward across the you begin your journey along the canal, side trip to Port Townsend. This artist-
top edge of the Olympic Peninsula, then a good first stop is the Squaxin Island friendly community has appeared in
south along the Pacific coast down to the Tribe Museum, Library and Research movies (“An Officer and a Gentleman,”
Columbia River. Center. This striking building on “Enough”) but is perhaps best known
On this byway, hike in temperate Shelton’s Totten Inlet houses displays, for Centrum’s music festivals, artist
rain forests, soak in hot springs or cold, photographs and artwork showing the workshops and residencies and its
clear lakes and scratch your name in history and culture of the Squaxin. Wooden Boat Festival in September.
the sand at the edge of the Pacific. Eat Hood Canal has a number of state The entire town is on the National
in a lakeside lodge where Franklin D. parks (Potlatch and Dosewallips are Register of Historic Places.
Roosevelt dined, or shuck oysters on a a couple with campsites) with easily
beach. The byway contains or connects accessible beaches. When in season Sunny Sequim
directly to five other scenic byways and (check http://wdfw.wa.gov), clamming Located in the rain shadow of
is a confluence of the best that western is omnipresent here, so come prepared the Olympic Mountains, Sequim
Washington has to offer. with a shellfish license, rubber boots (pronounced SQUIM), known as the
“Banana Belt,” the driest area in western seals, sea lions and the occasional whale. destination, with free ranger-led tours every
Washington, is home to the state’s weekend at 2 p.m. (snowshoes provided).
biggest lavender festival. Detour through Port Angeles
the fertile Dungeness Valley and discover This small town’s charm and boutique Lake Crescent, a President
organic produce stands, pick-your-own shops along with a variety of dining and and waterfalls
flower fields and a perfect panorama lodging options will entice you to stay Continuing west on US-101, the
of the Olympics spreading along the several days. There are also four wineries byway is sandwiched between the steep
southern horizon. just a few minutes from town and a very foothills of the Olympics and the crystal-
Sequim is a good place to access the active event calendar. Port Angeles is clear waters of Lake Crescent. Historic
Olympic Discovery Trail, a hiking, also an international port. The Coho, a Lake Crescent Lodge (built in 1916)
biking and equestrian trail which car ferry that travels to Victoria, British has accommodations and fine dining;
connects with Port Angeles, and the Columbia, sails from here several times a Franklin D. Roosevelt stayed here in the
photos: two left, marcus yearout; far right, patrick bennett
Jamestown Tribal campus in Blyn. day. See the Strait of Juan de Fuca Scenic late 1930s and decided to sign Olympic
Byway for more information. National Park into existence.
Dungeness Spit Near the lodge, the Storm King
Curving more than 5 miles out into Hurricane Ridge in Ranger Station is the starting point for
the Strait of Juan de Fuca, Dungeness Olympic National Park a handful of easy rambles. Splendid
Spit is the longest natural sand spit in Olympic National Park’s famed Marymere Falls is a great way to spend
the United States. Beach hikers can go Hurricane Ridge is 18 miles south and an hour or two. Waterfall buffs may also
inside the New Dungeness Lighthouse at 5,200 feet up from Port Angeles. Day want to turn onto Sol Duc Hot Springs
the end of the spit and see views of the hikers can find marmots, deer and Road, about 3 miles beyond Lake
strait, the Olympics and their long walk meadows full of lupine and glacier lilies, Crescent. There are roadside cascades
back. The spit is part of the Dungeness plus jaw-dropping views all the way to (look for leaping salmon in October),
National Wildlife Refuge, an area Canada. In winter, the area becomes and hikers will enjoy the 1-mile
populated by ducks and seabirds, harbor a popular skiing and snowshoeing hike to Sol Duc Falls, especially if
they follow it with a soak in nearby still is—a popular place for hikers and the 0.8-mile Hall of Mosses trail if time
106-degree mineral pools. sport anglers fishing for salmon and is short. There’s also a visitor center and
rainbow trout in the Hoh, Sol Duc, camping, and an outfitter along the way
Entering “Twilight” Country Bogachiel and Calawah rivers. Located that offers guide services and raingear.
Southwest on US-101 is the town on the western edge of Olympic
of Forks, a pilgrimage site for fans National Forest, Forks provides easy Kalaloch and Ruby Beach
of Stephenie Meyer’s “Twilight” access to trails and wildlife viewing. US-101 veers toward the coast now,
novels. But long before vampires and then southward along a chain of beaches
werewolves hit town, Forks was—as it La Push within Olympic National Park, some of
A few miles west of Forks, SR-110 the last protected wilderness beaches in
leads to La Push, home of the Quileute the contiguous United States.
Nation. The shoreline at La Push, and Ruby Beach has a meandering creek,
nearby First, Second and Rialto beaches garnet-colored sand and shallow pools
are wonderful. Heaps of silvered to play in during low tide. Kalaloch
driftwood, sea stacks and beautiful (pronounced CLAY-lock) is a wide, flat
hikes are all part of the magic. beach with campsites and the popular
Quileute Days, a popular Tribal Kalaloch Lodge perched on the bank
celebration of cultural heritage, takes above. Bluff-side cabins and a restaurant
place in July. The Quileute Nation with spectacular views of the Pacific
maintains a comfortable resort on draw visitors from all over the world
the water’s edge and a restaurant to this superlative beach.
n cano e jo ur
ne y at the marina.
ica
Nativ e Am er
Quinault Rain Forest
Hoh Rain Forest At the southwestern edge of Olympic
Northwest Tribal Tourism Less than an hour south of Forks National Park, you’ll encounter Lake
Northwest Tribal Tourism (NWTT) is a 10-tribe on US-101, take the cutoff to the Quinault and the Quinault Rain Forest.
consortium, located on the Kitsap and Olympic astonishing Hoh Rain Forest, one of the The pristine lake is surrounded by massive
Peninsulas. Cultural traditions and life-ways
last old-growth temperate rain forests old-growth cedar and spruce trees and is
relied upon navigating and maintaining trade
routes stretching over diverse terrain. NWTT in the western hemisphere. This place anchored by another historic lodge where
works to sustain and enhance the geographical measures annual rainfall in feet (14 a Franklin Roosevelt once stayed.
character of the environment and culture. In year is the average), and the wildlife Keep on the lookout for large herds
2008, NWTT became manager of the Pacific viewing and birding opportunities are of Roosevelt elk (no relation). The
Coast Scenic Byway (US 101), the only Native abundant. Several hikes of varying protection of their habitat was a
American organization to manage a non-native
difficulty and length will lead you primary reason for the creation of
United States Scenic Byway.
through the moss-draped canopy; try Olympic National Park.
70
PACIFIC COAST
Three byways converge After Aberdeen, the Pacific Coast this byway will take you to the Long
When this byway approaches Scenic Byway takes travelers inland on Beach Peninsula and every kind of beach
Hoquiam, choices abound as it intersects US-101 through forested hills and then lodging and recreation imaginable. After
with two other scenic byways. The joins the Cranberry Coast byway as it that, the village of Chinook is a gateway
Hidden Coast Scenic Byway follows travels through Raymond, South Bend to time travel at Fort Columbia State
SR-109 north, covering the pristine and Willapa Bay. Refer to the Cranberry Park, where barracks, buildings and
stretch of Pacific coastline that leads Coast Scenic Byway section in this guide batteries were active from 1896 to 1947.
from Hoquiam to Taholah, home of the for details about these towns. The byway ends at the Washington-
Quinault Indian Nation. Oregon state boundary, where the lofty
The Cranberry Coast Scenic Byway On to the Columbia Astoria-Megler Bridge passes over the
hugs the coastal route south from At the southernmost reach of Columbia River, leaving Washington’s
Aberdeen to Raymond along SR-105. Washington’s coast, a short detour off beauty in the rearview mirror.
Planning Tips
Driving Distance 350 MILES
top adventures
Local ResourceS:
Northwest Tribal Tourism www.explorepacificnwtribes.com
Olympia-Lacey-Tumwater www.visitolympia.com
North Olympic Peninsula Visitor Bureau www.olympicpeninsula.org
Port Angeles Chamber of Commerce www.portangeles.org
Grays Harbor Tourism www.visitgraysharbor.com
Willapa Harbor Chamber of Commerce www.willapaharbor.org
Long Beach Peninsula Visitors Bureau www.funbeach.com
PALOUSE
72
palouse scenic byway
carved oak mantelpieces and a hand- Granite Dam is just 2 miles up the road Grizzly Bear Research Center. Afterwards,
carved marble fireplace. and offers fish viewing rooms as well as enjoy a meal in one of Pullman’s many
Farther north on SR-27, in Oakesdale, a visitor center. Steelhead, catfish, bass fine pubs and restaurants.
the wonderfully weathered Barron Flour and sturgeon fishing are popular in Lake
Mill, constructed in 1890, is a grand Bryan—the backwaters below the dam. Visit the Dahmen Barn
wooden structure worn over the years by near Uniontown
decades of sun and rain. The mill has its Pullman: Home of the Cougars At the southernmost extension of the
own peculiar dignity and is a year-round Pullman, home to Washington State byway, on SR-195 in Uniontown, you’ll
photo op. University, features unique restaurants, find the Artisans at the Dahmen Barn.
shops, galleries and boutiques. Visit This restored dairy barn, surrounded
Steptoe Battlefield and the WSU campus to see the beautiful by a fence made from more than 1,000
Railroad Bridge architectural blending of both classic and wagon wheels, houses several artists’
Driving slightly northeast on SR- contemporary styles. studios, where travelers are invited
271, head to Rosalia and stop at nearby Swing by the WSU Creamery to take to watch regional artists at work.
Steptoe Battlefield and Monument, a home a round of its famous Cougar Head down the road to see the historic
commemoration of an 1858 Indian Gold cheddar, and allow time to tour the St. Boniface Catholic Church.
battle with the U.S. Army.
From here, you can see the Rosalia
Railroad Bridge. Listed on the National
Register of Historic Places, the concrete
arch bridge was built by the Chicago,
Milwaukee, St. Paul and Pacific Railroad
in 1915. Follow SR-271 from Rosalia
for the best photo op.
The town’s visitor center is a
historic Texaco gas station that will
Planning Tips
make you nostalgic for an older, Getting There: From Seattle,
take I-90 east to Vantage, then
small-town America.
SR-26 east to the starting point just past
Washtucna. The 208-mile byway is neither a
Steptoe Butte State Park loop nor a straight line, but includes sections
Going south on SR-195, look for this of various highways in southeast Washington
that crisscross and connect several small farm
park at the town of Steptoe. Shaped like
communities. The byway begins when SR-26
a thimble, the 150-acre, 3,612-foot- reaches the Palouse River near Hooper and
tall, quartzite butte looms over the continues east, then north, south and west.
surrounding flatlands. Drive the circular Driving Distance 208 MILES
Gas, Food and Lodging:
route to the summit and be amazed at the Hotels, motels, cabins, RV parks,
Drive time 4–5 hours
fertile valleys below. The year-round park campgrounds, and more can be found both in
is open for day use only. plan to spend 1 day the 11 communities on this byway and in some
recreation areas. Gas stations and restrooms
best seasons* year round are plentiful.
Boyer Park and
Lower Granite Dam top adventures Nearby Scenic Byway:
Lewis and Clark Trail
Continuing south on SR-195, nearly *Check www.dot.wa.gov for road conditions and seasonal closures.
photo: PATRICK BENNETT
74
SAN JUAN ISLANDS
Orcas Island you’ll find shops, galleries, restaurants park. Enjoy campsites, five freshwater
The byway continues with a 40-minute and lodging. The Orcas Island Historical lakes and over 38 miles of hiking trails.
ferry ride from Friday Harbor to Orcas Museum, located in the center of the The park’s Mount Constitution is the
Island, the largest of the San Juans. The village, has exhibits housed in six original highest point in the San Juans at 2,409
ferry lands at Orcas Village, with its 1800s homestead cabins. feet and boasts panoramic views of
distinctive general store built on pilings islands and the Cascade Mountains—a
above the shore and the 1904 Orcas Hotel. Historic Rosario Resort must-do side trip.
Head out on Orcas Road and turn Heading south on Olga Road brings
west onto Deer Harbor Road to the quiet travelers to the historic Moran Mansion Last Stops: Olga and Doe Bay
hamlet of Deer Harbor. Here you can rent at Rosario Resort. Robert Moran, a Come back down the mountain and
a boat or a bike, take a kayak or whale shipbuilder and former mayor of Seattle, continue south to the hamlet of Olga
watching tour, or just buy a coffee from a built the mansion in 1909, and today for shopping and a meal at the Orcas
store on a dock and enjoy the view. it’s the centerpiece of this popular Island Artworks cooperative, housed in
resort and marina. The mansion houses a 1936 strawberry-packing plant. The
Pottery cooperatives photographs from the 1900s, arts- last stop along the byway is Doe Bay,
Orcas—or “the rock,” as locals call and-crafts furniture and a music room where you’ll find a rustic resort. This
it—is known for its pottery. Ask the locals featuring Tiffany chandeliers, a Steinway Northwest icon offers yurts near the
where you can find potters spin clay into grand piano and a renowned Aeolian beach, soaking tubs and a truly laid-
art at any one of the local historic studios. pipe organ. back island experience.
Retrace your route back to Orcas
Bustling Eastsound Moran State Park Village, catch an Anacortes-bound ferry
Continue to Eastsound, the Continue south to Moran State and savor the return cruise through the
commercial hub of Orcas Island. Here Park, Washington’s fourth-largest state scenic San Juan Islands.
Planning Tips
Getting There: Take a Washington State ferry
from Anacortes to Friday Harbor on San Juan Island
to begin your journey. Be sure to arrive at the ferry terminal
early, especially during peak summer and weekend travel.
Once you’ve explored San Juan Island, take an inter-island ferry to Orcas Island. Keep an eye
out for resident orca pods. Foot passenger service is also available seasonally from Bellingham,
Seattle and Port Townsend.
Gas, Food and Lodging: There are plenty of accommodations on both islands,
although reservations are recommended, especially in summer months. Local groceries,
restaurants and resorts provide food for all tastes. Gas can be found in Friday Harbor and Roche
Harbor on San Juan Island, and in Eastsound on Orcas Island.
Connected or Nearby Scenic Byways:
Whidbey Island Scenic Isle Way, Cascade Loop, Chuckanut Drive
Sherman Pass
Sherman Pass
Don’t be fooled by this northeast Washington byway’s short length—
it’s long on natural beauty and fascinating history.
SHERMAN PASS
76
sherman pass
wanders past waterfalls and through Area and its dozens of campgrounds Worthwhile side trips
Douglas fir forests. In fall, the deciduous are popular for boating, swimming and For further exploration, there are some
conifer larch trees, which look like fishing, www.nps.gov/pwr/laro. rewarding side trips from Kettle Falls.
evergreens in the summer, turn a radiant Head south along US-395 to Colville, a
gold, and their needles drop to the ground, Kettle Falls, a town that moved charming town surrounded by enough
creating a beautiful golden highway. The byway ends at Kettle Falls, a streams, rivers, lakes and reservoirs to
recreational haven nestled between the make it a popular fishing spot.
The Sherman Pass overlook Kettle Mountains and Lake Roosevelt’s Thirteen miles east of Colville on
Along SR-20 there is a pullout at the blue waters—which submerged the SR-20 is the turn-off to Little Pend
White Mountain/Sherman Overlook original town when the Grand Coulee Oreille National Wildlife Refuge. Follow
with an easy quarter-mile paved trail Dam was finished. Today, the edge of the signs for another 6 miles. At nearly
and interpretive signs detailing the the former town site is Old Kettle Falls 42,000 acres, this stunning area is the only
devastating fires of 1929 and 1988. Campground, which has riverfront sites, mountain forest refuge of mixed conifers in
Ghostly gray snags still stand, remnants interpretive signage with a marina and the continental United States. There’s free
of the massive fires. houseboat rental business next door. camping and ample fishing, and wildlife
There are interpretive trails all along Houseboats, complete with slides and galore. More than 206 bird species and
the route, so plan some time to loiter. hot tubs on board, are a popular way to 58 mammal species can be found in this
These areas include an old log-flume site enjoy the waters of Lake Roosevelt. refuge, www.fws.gov/littlependoreille.
with an easy paved quarter-mile trail,
and Camp Growden, where hundreds
of young men were sent to work during
the Great Depression in FDR’s Civilian
Conservation Corps.
Spirit Lake
Memorial Highway
Spirit Lake
This is the only scenic byway in the United States that penetrates a fresh volcanic blast zone.
mount78st. helens
spirit lake
before, during and after the Lake, its surface still covered by a mat
eruption, with an emphasis on of logs, leave a lasting impression. The
reforestation and conservation entire lake was tossed 800 feet up the
projects. One of the interesting opposing mountainside during the blast
goals of the learning center and now rests where it returned, half as
is to not interfere with the deep and with twice the surface.
elk herd destruction caused by the Experience the power of this place by
eruption and let nature take its taking a short hike. The Coldwater Lake
Kid Valley course as much as possible. Trail is an easily navigated boardwalk
A small, spirited community that leading to a lake that was formed after
survived the blast, Kid Valley was Johnston Ridge Observatory the eruption. The Hummocks Trail—
once a town of logging camps and At the end of the Spirit Lake Scenic hummocks are mounds of volcanic
mining claims. When Mount St. Byway is Johnston Ridge Observatory, debris—takes an hour to walk and is
Helens blew up, many families in Kid where visitors are only 5 miles from moderately strenuous, winding through
Valley’s outlying areas lost their homes. the crater and lava dome of Mount St. lupine fields and beaver ponds on what
Mudflows buried logging camps and the Helens. Stands of dead trees, stripped was once the site of the largest landslide
Green River Fish Hatchery. of their bark, and the remains of Spirit in recorded human history.
Today, Kid Valley has reestablished
its character and charm. A local family
turned one of the original homesteads
into the Kid Valley Campground, a
convenient base for sightseeing, hiking
and biking the Mount St. Helens area.
Swiftwater
Corridor
Swiftwater Corridor
The Swiftwater Corridor features sun-drenched
views of pine forestland, pristine waters
and valley cattle ranches.
Salmon La Sac
The mineral rush in this region brought the Kittitas Railway
and Power Company, financed by French investors in 1911. With
it came the construction of a depot at Salmon La Sac, a wilderness
area located at the beginning of this byway.
The depot, now on the National Register of Historic Places, sits
at the entrance to the Salmon La Sac campground. In summer,
this place is filled with campers, anglers and hikers heading
into the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. Wintertime sees an influx of
snowmobile riders. Don’t expect a town in Salmon La Sac—but
you can find a restaurant and snowmobile rentals in the village of
Ronald, which you’ll drive through along dogsledders find fun here. No motorized a historic wooden water-flume irrigation
the way. vehicles are allowed on the trail, except system—all excellent photo ops.
on the higher-elevation stretches, where
Roslyn snowmobiles are permitted in winter. Ellensburg
Embarking east on SR-903 along the In Ellensburg the byway ends, but the
byway, you’ll drive through the heart of Thorp discoveries don’t. Here you’ll find a rich
Roslyn, a coal-mining town founded in As you follow SR-10 from Cle Elum, and genuine culture thanks to a vibrant
the late 1800s. The historic buildings don’t miss the tiny community of Thorp. arts community, the influence of the
and weathered wood facades caught the A gristmill that was built in the 1870s still Central Washington University student
attention of Hollywood location scouts, stands, and visitors are welcome. Also, an population and plenty of cowpokes.
and the town was reborn in the 1990s odd combination fruit/antique stand here All of this is woven beautifully into the
as Cicely, Alaska, on the popular show sells preserves and locally grown produce fabric of a historic downtown district.
“Northern Exposure.” along with antique home furnishings. A vibrant farmers’ market, a brewery
Today it offers a number of unique Keep on the lookout for remnants of offering handcrafted beers and a few
stops for travelers, including the Brick long-abandoned gas stations, motels and noteworthy bakeries are located here.
Tavern (the oldest tavern in Washington),
the town’s small café (with its familiar
outdoor Roslyn mural), a historical
museum and a miners’ memorial.
Don’t miss the Roslyn Historical
Cemetery, which is actually a couple
dozen separate cemeteries located
adjacent to one another. Here the
deceased are segregated by lodge
or church affiliation and often by
nationality. At least 24 countries are
represented here, a testament to the
diversity of the region’s mine workers.
Cle Elum and Iron Horse State Park Planning Tips Driving Distance 42 MILES
Further east, you’ll find the town of Cle
Getting There: From Seattle, take Drive time 2 hours
Elum. Garlic lovers will want to visit in I-90 east to Roslyn (85 miles / 90 minutes).
February, when the town hosts its annual Take the Salmon La Sac Road about 10 miles north plan to spend 1 day
Bagna Cauda Festival—a local celebration from Roslyn to reach the Alpine Lakes Wilderness and
Salmon La Sac Recreational Area. best seasons* year round
of a traditional Italian dip so potent it
is guaranteed to keep vampires away. Gas, Food and Lodging: top adventures
Nearby is the longest, narrowest state park A golf resort, hotels, motels, inns, and other
*Portions of the route are
accommodations can found from Roslyn to Ellensburg, and camping is plentiful.
photos: Top, Patrick bennett; bottom, bill zude
Whidbey Scenic
Isle Way
82
whidbey scenic isle way
terminal of the Coupeville-Port Oak Harbor marine and camping park offers beaches,
Townsend state ferry run, boasting the Oak Harbor is Whidbey’s biggest city old-growth forests, plenty of wildlife,
newest ferries in the state’s system— and home to the Whidbey Island Naval dramatic cliffs, 77,000 feet of saltwater
the Chetzemoka. Reservations are Air Station. During regular training, Navy shoreline and 34,000 feet of freshwater
recommended for this limited schedule jets can be seen—and heard—circling shoreline on three lakes. The bridge
route (www.wsdot.wa.gov/ferries). above Coupeville and Oak Harbor. and the cliffs it spans may look familiar
In downtown Oak Harbor, check out to you because this spectacular site has
Fort Ebey State Park the new PBY Foundation Memorial been featured in numerous national
Continuing north, Fort Ebey State which includes an interpretive center commercials. Hiking, biking and horse
Park is another all-season camping and one of the original amphibious trails are available, while boating, fishing
park with 3 miles of saltwater planes that flew off Whidbey in 1943. (catfish, cod, salmon), kayaking and
shoreline on the Strait of Juan de Several excellent restaurants, seafood freshwater swimming are among the
Fuca, a freshwater lake for fishing, shops and handcrafted-ale pubs can be many recreation options.
plus extensive hiking and biking trails. found here. As you drive slowly across this bridge
This park is a popular surfing area, and crowded with pedestrians enjoying the
seaweed harvesting is allowed from mid- Deception Pass State Park view, reflect on this little-known fact;
April to mid-May. Set on both sides of the handsome Deception Pass has more visitors each
Deception Pass Bridge, this all-season year than the Grand Canyon!
Walkable Coupeville
In charming Coupeville, be sure to
pick up a walking-tour map of more
than 50 buildings listed on the National
Register of Historic Places. Today many
of them house waterfront shops, bed-
and-breakfasts, art galleries, bookstores
and restaurants. Planning Tips
Home of the delectable, world- Getting There: Take the ferry from
famous Penn Cove mussels, Coupeville Mukilteo, 30-minutes north of Seattle, to
Clinton, the southernmost town on the island. The
has many restaurants, cafes and taverns
54-mile byway begins on SR-525, which becomes
that incorporate these delicacies, along SR-20 near the town of Coupeville. Contact www.
with other locally grown products, into dot.wa.gov/ferries for ferry schedules and rates.
their menus.
Gas, Food and Lodging:
Accommodations, including hotels,
Ebey’s Landing cabins, inns, bed and breakfasts, campgrounds
National Historic Reserve and RV parks, can be easily found on the byway.
Restaurants and cafes are also easy to find in the
For an even greater sense of this area’s island’s towns. Gas stations are plentiful along
history, visit Ebey’s Landing National the much of the main route. A Savor Washington
Historic Reserve. This 24-square-mile “Farm to Fork” itinerary for the area is available
at http://www.agr.wa.gov/Marketing/SmallFarm/
photos: top, tom stilz; bottom, darien chin
Yakama
Scenic Byway
to where the highway meets SR-14 found here. Downtown Toppenish murals
at the Columbia River. The byway Toppenish is located entirely within
begins where arid desert hills drop into Yakama Nation Cultural Center the bounds of the Yakama Nation.
productive plains—the Yakima Valley is Approaching Toppenish, you’ll see a Toppenish’s museums, Native American
one of the world’s leading agricultural building with a distinctive roofline. It’s and Western traditions, cultural diversity
regions. The influence and presence fashioned after an ancient Yakama winter and 73 historically accurate murals create
of the Yakama people can be keenly lodge, and marks the Yakama Nation an inviting atmosphere for anyone with
felt along this byway; museums and a Cultural Center. This 30-year-old a passion for history.
cultural center, and a restaurant featuring museum tells the story of the Yakama This town is also home to The American
authentic Yakama fare, are just a handful people from their own perspective. Life Hop Museum, and directly across the
of ways travelers can learn more about the sized reproductions of dwellings, audio- street, The Northern Pacific Railway
original inhabitants of this land. visual displays, and artifacts are just part Museum. Visit www.toppenish.net
of the “Yakama Experience.” for more information about
Union Gap Sample traditional dishes like salmon, downtown Toppenish.
This small town marks an actual gap buffalo stew or steak, finished off with
in the landscape that leads into the huckleberry pie and handmade ice cream Fort Simcoe Historical State Park
bountiful Yakima Valley. Duck into in the museum’s Heritage Inn Restaurant, A day-use heritage park since 1956,
town and look for a small restaurant that or overnight in a tepee at the nearby Fort Simcoe, located 27 miles west of
serves mouthwatering handmade tamales Yakama Nation RV Park, www.YNRV. Toppenish on SR-220 is a fascinating
(authentic and delicious Mexican food com. The campus is further graced by a side trip and was listed on the National
is easy to find in this region) then begin splendid view of Mount Adams. Register of Historic Places in 1974.
your drive through ‘The Gap’. The Cultural Center is open seven days Revealing much about army life in those
If you’re captivated by the hop and a week; guided tours and storytelling days, it also offers insights into local
mint fields spread before you, and the are available by appointment. www. Yakama Nation traditions in the 1850s.
fruit orchards in the hills, you may YakamaMuseum.com You’ll find plenty The park has original blockhouses
want to consider a stop at The Central of great gaming and entertainment and officers’ homes, large, grassy areas
Washington Agricultural Museum. nearby at the Tribe’s popular casino, for sports, picnic tables, and a short
This free (donations suggested) museum www.LegendsCasino.com. Throughout hiking trail. Seasonal birding includes
provides a look at the history and lives Yakama country, you’ll encounter Lewis woodpeckers, owls, eagles, hawks,
84
YakAma Scenic Byway
for a gourmet fix) along with a large Gas, Food and Lodging: Hotels,
selection of handmade soaps, candles motels, campgrounds and RV parks are
and traditional art. This is a truly found in every community along this byway. Gas
is available along the route, with the exception
unique experience. of the stretch from Toppenish to Goldendale.
A Savor Washington Itinerary: Yakima Valley
The Satus Pass crossing and for is available at www.agr.wa.gov/Marketing/
SmallFarm/SavorWA.aspx.
Brooks Memorial State Park
Satus Pass, at 3,100 feet, has superb connected or nearby
photos: left, istock; right, stephanie wendt
there are lots of viewing opportunities. Recreation Area, overseen by the Bureau southern half. If you want to stalk this
Rattlesnakes are also common during of Land Management. A reservoir there rarest of rare plants, June is the best
late spring and in the summer—leave is used for boating, swimming and month to spy them blooming in the
them alone and stay alert so you can rafting, and this is the last take-out point basalt columns, looking like bouquets
enjoy your visit. for floaters and anglers on the river. left behind by rock climbers.
Park in the lot and cross a suspension Binoculars are recommended to see
bridge over the river and head out for Selah Cliffs Natural Area Preserve the flower, which exists nowhere else
an easy hike along the creek, or ascend a Five miles northeast of Selah, in the world. But look around, too, at
succession of ridges to see snowcapped stretching along Selah Creek from the cliffs within the project area; they’re a
mountain peaks to the west and the Saddle eastern edge of SR-821 and I-82, the prime habitat for prairie falcons and
Mountains and endless desert to the east. Selah Cliffs Natural Area Preserve is an golden eagles.
Wildlife viewing includes California excellent example of a private and public The byway officially ends as SR-821
bighorn sheep, mule deer, Rocky partnership that resulted in conservation rejoins the rushing traffic of I-82. But if
Mountain elk, and coyotes. Golden of an endangered habitat. The preserve, you want to celebrate your discovery of
eagles gracefully soar high above on open to the public, is home to a rare this remote byway, cross the river into
the thermals that rise from the canyon population of basalt daisy, a threatened Selah, buy a can of apple juice and raise
floor. The basalt cliffs here, with their plant that certainly looks dainty and a toast to your travels in the town that
clefts and crevices, are home to the only grows high up in cracks in the dubs itself “the apple juice capital of
densest population of nesting raptors rock left by ancient lava in the canyon’s the world.”
in the state of Washington. For a
truly comprehensive look at birding
opportunities along this byway, go to Planning Tips
http://wa.audubon.org and look for the
Getting There: From Seattle, take
Great Washington State Birding Trail—
I-90 east for 107 miles to Ellensburg
Sun and Sage Loop. (about a 1.5-hour drive) and take the exit for
SR-821 South/Canyon Road. The byway runs all
Roza Dam the way to an intersection south of Selah, where it
merges onto I-82 south heading toward Yakima.
Down the road from Umtanum Creek
and 10 miles north of Yakima is Roza Gas, Food and Lodging: Motels,
Dam. Built in 1939, the dam diverts resorts, RV parks and other lodging are
plentiful at both ends of the byway in Ellensburg,
water to irrigate the otherwise arid land
Selah and Yakima. Gas is available in Ellensburg at
in the lower Yakima Valley, making it the north entrance and in Selah and Yakima at the
one of the most bountiful agricultural south. Gas up before you head through the canyon.
regions in the world. Every vegetable you Restaurants featuring locally grown cuisine
are easy to find at both ends of the canyon in
can imagine—and some you’ve never
Ellensburg and Yakima. Check with the visitor
heard of—along with tree-ripened fruits center in Ellensburg or Yakima (see the resources
like apples, cherries, peaches, pears, and below for their Web addresses) and find out where
plums, and of course hops and wine the locals eat. That’s where the best food and
conversation will be found.
grapes, are grown in the valley’s desert
thanks in large part to the water diverted Connected or Nearby Scenic Driving Distance 18 MILES
from this dam. Byways:
Swiftwater Corridor, Mountains
to Sound Greenway, White Pass, Chinook Pass Drive time 75 minutes
Take in the impressive operation,
photos: PATRICK BENNETT
and don’t miss the fish ladder where Local Resources: plan to spend 1 day
salmon and endangered steelhead make Ellensburg Chamber of Commerce
www.visitellen.com best seasons year round
their heroic upstream leaps on the long Yakima Valley Convention and Visitors
journey home. Bureau www.visityakima.com top adventures
Just above Roza Dam is the Roza
The byways are broken down into three tiers: All American beauty and breathtaking vistas. A selected byway must
Roads, National Scenic Byways and State Scenic Byways. also demonstrate rich and varied archaeological, cultural,
These designations are awarded by the U.S. Department of historical, natural, and recreational qualities. We’ve even
Transportation’s Federal Highway Administration based on included several “Savor Washington: Farm to Fork” itineraries
a rigorous grant application process and development of a for you to experience along the way. There is truly something
“corridor management plan” by the destination marketing for everyone to enjoy on these treasured pathways.
organizations and city planners. You, the traveler, are rewarded by simply being able to plan
This process involves countless hours of work and some time, select a direction and drive. It is our sincere hope
coordination with local communities and state agencies such that you will use this guide to plan many road trips across our
as Tourism, Fish & Wildlife (with assistance from Audubon wonderful state. Also of note is that the estimated travel times
Washington), Transportation, Parks, and Agriculture to indicated in the planning tips in each byway come in two
ensure proper signage, infrastructure and travel adventures forms: the time it takes to accomplish the drive from start to
are available along the selected routes. finish and the time it may take to stop and enjoy a few of its
The definition of “scenic” goes far beyond natural distinct experiences.
88
information
National Scenic Byways State Scenic Byways Skamania County Chamber of Commerce
www.skamania.org
Coulee Corridor – Page 21 Phone: 509-427-8911 / 1-800-989-9178
Cape Flattery Tribal Scenic Byway – Page 40
www.couleecorridor.com Vancouver USA Tourism
Makah Nation
www.visitvancouverusa.com
Phone: 509-632-8638 www.makah.com
Phone: 360-750-1553 / 1-877-600-0800
Phone: 360-645-2201
Grand Coulee Chamber of Commerce
www.grandcouleedam.org Strait of Juan de Fuca - Highway 112 Cranberry Coast Scenic Byway – Page 52
Phone: 509-633-3074 www.highway112.org
Cranberry Coast Tourism
1-800-COULEE2 Phone: 360-452-8552 / 1-800-942-4042
www.cranberrycoast.net
Grant County Tourism Olympic Peninsula Tourism
Cranberry Coast Chamber of Commerce
www.tourgrantcounty.com www.olympicpeninsula.org
www.cranberrycoastcoc.com
Phone: 509-754-2011 Ext. 331 Phone: 360-452-8552 / 1-800-942-4042
Phone: 360-268-9422 / 1-800-345-6223
Mountains to Sound Greenway – Page 25 Cascade Loop – Page 42 Grays Harbor Tourism
http://visitgraysharbor.com
Mountains to Sound Greenway Trust Cascade Loop Association
Phone: 1-800-621-9625
www.mtsgreenway.org www.cascadeloop.com
Phone: 206-382-5565 Phone: 509-662-3888
Hidden Coast Scenic Byway – Page 54
Lake Chelan Tourism
Stevens Pass Greenway – Page 29 Washington Coast Chamber of Commerce
www.cometothelake.com
www.stevenspassgreenway.org www.washingtoncoastchamber.org.
Phone: 1-877-440-7933
Phone: 360-677-2030 WWCCC@washingtoncoastchamber.org
Leavenworth Chamber of Commerce
Leavenworth Chamber of Commerce Grays Harbor Tourism
www.leavenworth.org
www.leavenworth.org http://visitgraysharbor.com
Phone: 509-548-5807
Phone: 509-548-5807 Phone: 1-800-621-9625
Skagit Valley Tourism (Mt. Vernon Chamber)
Sky Valley Visitor Information Center Ocean Shores
www.visitskagitcounty.com
www.skyvalleychamber.com www.tourismoceanshores.com
Phone: 360-428-8547
Phone: 360-289-9586 / 1-866-60-COAST
Snohomish County Tourism
www.snohomish.org Cascade Valleys – Page 46
Lewis & Clark Trail – Page 56
Phone: 425-348-5802 Woodinville Tourism
1-888-338-0976 www.lewisandclarktrail.com/section4/
www.ci.woodinville.wa.us/play/tourism.asp
washington.htm
Wenatchee Valley Visitors Bureau Phone: 425-489-2700
Hells Canyon Visitor Bureau
www.wenatcheevalley.org Redmond Tourism
www.hellscanyonvisitor.com
Phone: 1-800-572-7753 www.experienceredmond.com
Phone: 509-758-7489 / 1-877-774-7248
Snoqualmie Valley Chamber of Commerce
Strait of Juan de Fuca - Highway 112 Mount Adams Chamber of Commerce
www.snovalley.org/vg_attractions.html
Page 33 www.mtadamschamber.com
Phone: 425-888-4440
www.highway112.org Phone: 509-493-3630
Phone: 360-452-8552 / 1-800-942-4042 Outside Seattle
Skamania County Chamber of Commerce
www.outsideseattle.org
Olympic Peninsula Tourism www.skamania.org
www.olympicpeninsula.org Phone: 509-427-8911 / 1-800-989-9178
Chuckanut Drive – Page 48
Phone: 360-452-8552 / 1-800-942-4042
Tri-Cities Visitors Bureau
Chuckanut Drive Association
Sekiu-Clallam Bay Chamber www.visittri-cities.com
www.chuckanutdrive.com
www.sekiu.com Phone: 509-735-8486 / 1-800-254-5824
Phone: 360-963-2339 / 1-877-694-9433 Bellingham Whatcom County Tourism
Vancouver USA Tourism
www.bellingham.org
www.visitvancouverusa.com
White Pass Scenic Byway – Page 37 Phone: 360-671-3990 / 1-800-487-2032
Phone: 360-750-1553 / 1-877-600-0800
www.whitepassbyway.com Columbia River Gorge – Page 50 Long Beach Peninsula Visitors Bureau
Phone: 360-494-2223
Columbia River Gorge Visitors Association www.funbeach.com
Visit Rainier www.crgva.org Phone: 360-642-2400/1-800-451-2542
www.visitrainier.com Phone: 1-800-98-GORGE
Phone: 360-748-4514 / 1-877-270-7155
Mount Adams Chamber of Commerce
www.mtadamschamber.com
Phone: 509-493-3630
Mt. Baker Scenic Byway – Page 60 Port Angeles Chamber of Commerce Swiftwater Corridor Scenic Byway – Page 80
www.portangeles.org
Mount Baker Foothills Chamber of Commerce Alpine Lakes Wilderness
Phone: 360-452-2363
www.mtbakerchamber.org (Cle Elum Ranger Station)
Phone: 360-599-1518 Grays Harbor Tourism www.fs.fed.us/r6/wenatchee/cle-elum-
www.visitgraysharbor.com wilderness
Bellingham Whatcom County Tourism
Phone: 1-800-621-9625 Phone: 509-852-1100
www.bellingham.org
Phone: 360-671-3990 / 1-800-487-2032 Willapa Harbor Chamber of Commerce Cle Elum/Roslyn Chamber of Commerce
www.willapaharbor.org www.cleelumroslyn.org
Glacier Chamber of Commerce Phone: 509-674-5958
www.glacierchamber.org Phone: 360-942-541
Phone: 360-599-2714 Ellensburg Chamber of Commerce
Long Beach Peninsula Visitors Bureau
www.visitellen.com
www.funbeach.com
North Cascades Scenic HIghway – Page 62 Phone: 509-925-3137 / 1-888-925-2204
Phone: 360-642-2400 / 1-800-451-2542
Cascade Loop Association Whidbey Scenic Isle Way – Page 82
www.cascadeloop.com Palouse Scenic Byway – Page 72
Whidbey-Camano Island Tourism
Phone: 509-662-3888 www.palousescenicbyway.com
www.whidbeycamanoislands.com
Skagit Valley Tourism Phone: 509-334-3565 / 1-800-365-6948
Phone: 360-675-5412 / 1-888-747-7777
www.visitskagitcounty.com Pullman Chamber of Commerce Snohomish County Tourism
Phone: 360-428-8547 www.pullmanchamber.com www.snohomish.org
Winthrop Tourism Phone: 509-334-3565 / 1-800-ENJOY-IT Phone: 425-348-5802 / 1-888-338-0976
www.winthropwashington.com
San Juan Islands Scenic Byway – Page 74 Skagit Valley Tourism
Phone: 509-996-2125 / 1-888-463-8469
www.visitskagitcounty.com
San Juan Islands Visitors Bureau Phone: 360-428-8547
North Pend Oreille Scenic Byway – Page 64 www.visitsanjuans.com/visitors/scenic-byway
Pend Oreille River Tourism Alliance Phone: 1-888-468-3701 x 1 Yakama Scenic Byway – Page 84
www.porta-us.com/pages/activities/byway.asp Yakama Nation
Phone: 509-447-5286 Sherman Pass Scenic Byway – Page 76
www.yakamanation-nsn.gov
International Selkirk Loop Republic Tourism Phone: 509-865-5121
www.selkirkloop.org www.republicwa.org
Yakima Valley Convention and Visitors Bureau
Phone: 208-267-0822 Phone: 509-775-3216
www.visityakima.com
Kettle Falls Visitor Center Phone: 509-575-3010 / 1-800-221-0751
Okanogan Trails Scenic Byway – Page 66 www.nps.gov.laro
Goldendale Chamber of Commerce
Okanogan County Tourism Council Phone: 509-738-2300 www.goldendalechamber.org/visitors
www.okanogancountry.com Phone: 509-773-3400
Colville Chamber of Commerce
Phone: 1-888-431-3080
www.colville.com
Phone: 509-684-5973 Yakima River Canyon – Page 86
Pacific Coast Scenic Byway – Page 68
Ellensburg Chamber of Commerce
Northwest Tribal Tourism Spirit Lake Memorial Highway www.visitellen.com
www.explorepacificnwtribes.com (Mount St. Helens) – Page 78 Phone: 509-925-3137 / 1-888-925-2204
North Olympic Peninsula Visitor Bureau Cowlitz County Tourism Bureau Yakima Valley Convention and Visitors Bureau
www.olympicpeninsula.org www.visitmtsthelens.com www.visityakima.com
Phone: 360-452-8552 / 1-800-942-4042 Phone: 360-577-3137 Phone: 509-575-3010 / 1-800-221-0751
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