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Washington State’s

Scenic Byways
& Road trips

INSIDE:
Road Maps &
Scenic Drives
Planning Tips
Points of Interest
2
Table of contents
washington state’s scenic byways & Road trips Introduction 3
Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips guide has been made possible State Map Overview of Scenic Byways 4
through funding from the Federal Highway Administration’s National Scenic
Byways Program, Washington State Department of Transportation and
Washington State Tourism.
All American Roads
Washington State department of commerce
Chinook Pass Scenic Byway 9
Director, Rogers Weed International Selkirk Loop 15
Washington State Tourism
Executive Director, Marsha Massey National scenic Byways
Marketing Manager, Betsy Gabel
Product Development Manager, Michelle Campbell Coulee Corridor 21
Washington State Department of Transportation Mountains to Sound Greenway 25
Secretary of Transportation, Paula Hammond
Director, Highways and Local Programs, Kathleen Davis
Stevens Pass Greenway 29
Scenic Byways Coordinator, Ed Spilker Strait of Juan de Fuca - Highway 112 33
Byway leaders and an interagency advisory group with representatives from the
White Pass Scenic Byway 37
Washington State Department of Transportation, Washington State Department
of Agriculture, Washington State Department of Fish & Wildlife, Washington
State Tourism, Washington State Parks and Recreation Commission and state scenic Byways
Audubon Washington were also instrumental in the creation of this guide. Cape Flattery Tribal Scenic Byway 40
Publishing services provided by Destination Media Alliance, LLC
425 N. 85th Street, Seattle, WA 98103
Cascade Loop 42
206-443-0445 ext. 103 Cascade Valleys 46
Managing Partners, Paul Heppner, Lisa Schwartz, Marcus Yearout Chuckanut Drive 48
Managing Editor, Susan Peterson
Project Managers, Marcus Yearout, Michelle Campbell Columbia River Gorge 50
Art Director, Jana Rekosh
Contributing Writers, Tom Keogh, Anne Erickson Cranberry Coast Scenic Byway 52
Editorial Content Review, Carol Zahorsky Hidden Coast Scenic Byway 54
Cartography, Julia Martin
Controller, April Morgan Lewis and Clark Trail 56
Editorial copy appearing in this publication does not constitute an endorsement Mt. Baker Scenic Byway 60
of products or services by the State of Washington, the Washington State
Tourism Office, Department of Commerce or Department of Transportation. North Cascades Scenic Highway 62
Information, including prices, dates and hours, should be verified. North Pend Oreille Scenic Byway 64
Okanogan Trails 66
Pacific Coast Scenic Byway 68
Palouse Scenic Byway 72
top adventures legend San Juan Islands Scenic Byway 74
Look for these symbols in each byway’s planning tips. Sherman Pass Scenic Byway 76

Indian Country
Spirit Lake Memorial Highway 78
Natural Beauty Winter Sports
Swiftwater Corridor 80
Hiking, Trekking and Wildlife, Whale
Family Fun
Mountain Climbing and Bird Watching Whidbey Scenic Isle Way 82
National and State Parks
& Recreation Areas
Photography Wine and Cuisine Yakama Scenic Byway 84
Bicycling Arts, Culture Yakima River Canyon 86
Mountain and
and Heritage
Volcanoes
Boating, Canoeing, Resources 88
Island Experiences Kayaking and Rafting Festivals and Events

photo credits: Cover (VIEW OF san juan ISLANDS from Deception Pass Area)
Lakes, Rivers Camping
Museums and Galleries and table of contents (top of mt. Si overlooking I-90), Deborah RIchardson;
and Waterfalls PAGE 4 &5 (PALOUSE region, south of pullman), PATRICK BENNETT; inside back
Beaches cover (spring view oF Mt. St. helens), back cover (Scablands in north central
Fishing Breweries
washington), John Marshall
mT. Rainier
Lake
8 Tipsoo, Chinook Pass Summit Photo by BAUNTON
ALL AMERICAN ROADS

Chinook Pass
The Chinook Pass Scenic Byway runs from the rolling fields of Enumclaw
west of the Cascades to the Naches Valley east of the range.
Along the way, this two-lane pass wraps around the
northeastern flank of iconic Mount Rainier.

D riving this byway will give you a first-hand


answer to that ubiquitous Washington State
question, “Is the Mountain out?” But picture-
Cascades will give way to the sparser tamaracks and
ponderosa pines of eastern Washington’s foothills.
At the byway’s end there are many rewards; miles of
perfect glimpses of the second tallest peak in the horizon, abundant wildlife, farm stands filled with
continental U.S. aren’t all this route has to offer. local produce and, usually, warm weather and blue
This is a “boots-on” byway that presents every eastern Washington skies.
opportunity to step out of the car into dense forests, Before you jump in your car and head out,
alongside rollicking rivers and onto high desert remember a portion of this route is a seasonally
plains. It seems there is a new microclimate every restricted road—plan your trip between late May
other mile, so bring along extra layers of clothes, a and late November.
solid pair of shoes, and don’t forget your camera.
At the start of the byway, 14,410-foot-tall Mount Enumclaw
Rainier steals the scene and challenges the sky. The city of Enumclaw, set between plateau
Pause in Rainier’s foothills to explore an old-growth farmlands and the Cascade Mountains, is
forest or snowshoe a placid path. As you travel east, sometimes referred to as the “gateway to Mount
rushing water seems your constant companion, Rainier National Park,” although the folks over in
as this road follows routes carved by the White, Elbe and Ashford may disagree.
Greenwater, American and Naches rivers long ago. Spend a little time in town, relax and get ready
Finally, the dense Douglas fir forests of the western to explore this nature-rich byway. The downtown
PHOTO: BRETT BAUNTON

WASHINGTON STATE’S SCENIC BYWAYS & ROAD TRIPS 9


Experience Washington’s Scenic Byways

T he 28 scenic byways in this guide will lead you into


Olympic National Park’s lush coastal rain forests
where even the rocks are green and mossy, and guide
you into the sagebrush-peppered hills of coulee country, where
geology is laid bare.
They’ll take you aboard a Washington State ferry to sail Mountains are more than just high places
to the San Juan Islands, and they’ll reveal Indian petroglyphs Dramatic mountains play a major role along Washington’s
etched on the basalt banks of the Columbia River Gorge. byways; many of these routes travel over mountain passes.
One byway explores the urban wonders of the Seattle area: The volcanic peaks of the Cascade Mountains serve as both
Pike Place Market, a designer coffee shop’s birthplace, luxe destinations and stunning backdrops along these roads,
wineries and a sculpture park. visible from both western Washington’s fir forests and eastern
Another penetrates the remote Pend Oreille; lonely fishing Washington’s high desert plains.
lakes, fields of wildflowers, tiny towns and sweet isolation. The Olympics provide a rain barrier so significant that
One route takes you from the glaciers of towering Mount while 14 feet of rain per year falls on their western flanks,
Rainier to the blue skies and fresh fruit markets of the Yakima on their eastern slopes, rainfall is measured in mere inches.
Valley area. Pack a jacket, grab some sunglasses and hit the road. Washington travelers know that they stand a decent chance
Whatever type of road trip you’re craving, you will find it of getting out of the rain if they put a mountain range
along one or more of Washington’s scenic byways. between themselves and the ocean. People traveling eastward
beyond the Cascades often refer to it as “heading into the
Nothing in moderation sun.” Getting to know these byways may be the closest
This is a state that doesn’t do anything halfway. Hike you’ll ever come to controlling the weather!
a landscape recently laid bare by the eruption of Mount
St. Helens. Witness blossom time in the Wenatchee area Small towns with big rewards
orchards that grow the bulk of this nation’s apples. Watch a The towns along Washington’s scenic byways are as varied
storm roll in off the Pacific from the northwestern edge of as the landscape, and many of them are world-renowned.
the continental United States. Stand on the flanks of Mount Forks, the rainy logging town, has a reputation for vampires
Baker, where the world record for snowfall in a single season and werewolves thanks to the “Twilight” series, and
was broken in 1999 with a grand total of 95 feet. (Yes, there’s Leavenworth, the “Bavarian” village, features an
a ski area nearby.) Washington is a place filled with Oktoberfest that rivals Munich’s.
superlatives. These byways will take you to all of them. And many more discoveries await—Stehekin’s splendid
Water will be your constant travel companion. Many of these isolation at the northern tip of Lake Chelan; Goldendale,
byways, following routes carved long ago by rivers, reveal deep with its public-access telescope and world-class art museum;
gorges and cascading waterfalls along the way. Others wind Coupeville, where history collides with locally grown food,
along inland seas, offering clamming beaches and kayak producing delicious results.
launches. Lakes along the way invite camping, fishing or a The one thing the towns along Washington’s byways all have
cooling plunge off the end of a long dock. The Pacific Ocean is in common is friendly, welcoming people. Spend enough time
ever present to the west, beckoning with surfing spots, salmon in any of these places, and you’ll leave with a wealth of local
catch limits and lingering sunsets. knowledge and new friendships as souvenirs.

4
...and you’ll discover the authentic Pacific Northwest
and all of its spectacular diversity.

Outdoor recreation and watchable wildlife


The 28 byways in this guide will deliver a long list of things
to do, whether your recreational tastes run to kite boarding, biggest crop-growing regions. But many of these routes also
strolling through historic sites or something in between. pass through areas where smaller farms and food producers are
Wildlife watchers can spot animals ranging from elk to gray at the forefront of a tasty trend—organic farming.
whales along these byways. A burgeoning local-food culture that’s spreading from the
Birders have opportunities to see shorebirds, wetland fowl, oyster farms of Willapa Bay to the emmer wheat fields of
raptors and migrating flocks, as many byways are located along Mazama allows visitors the opportunity to get a literal taste of
the Pacific Flyway. Thousands of miles of trails beckon, from almost any region they explore. The long-standing winery tours
short paved walkways leading to mountain vistas, to the around Yakima and Walla Walla are still going strong, and now
Pacific Crest Trail itself. travelers can add artisan-cheese tastings, handcrafted brewery
And thanks to Washington’s plentiful national and state parks tours and farm-to-field feasts to the menu.
and federal wildlife preserves, opportunities for camping abound. Look for the Savor Washington link at the back of this guide
for a list of food lovers’ side trips along the byways.
Native cultures provide rich history
History buffs and cultural explorers will learn plenty along Coloring outside the lines is encouraged
Washington’s byways. Follow in the footsteps of Lewis and Finally, this is a comprehensive and detailed guide to
Clark as they journeyed to the Pacific. See the state through the these wonderful roads, but one that encourages detours and
eyes of the people who have lived here for millennia. Take in discoveries. It’s the cardinal rule of the road trip; if something
a Yakama Pow Wow or a Tribal rodeo and encampment in the looks interesting, go check it out.
Okanogan; visit the museum of the Squaxin Island Tribe, or eat Talk to locals, grab a bite to eat at that funky diner, turn
salmon that was spit roasted on the beach at Neah Bay. onto the dirt road with an odd name. Every one of these scenic
Plentiful interpretive sites and museums along these byways byways has wonders that didn’t make it into this guide—
will teach all travelers something new. consider it your job to go out and find them! Be sure to take
your time, and take it all in—the peacefully sublime and the
Volcanic soil and sunshine create rich agriculture ruggedly spectacular. You’ll find both as you explore our scenic
Washington has always been a major agricultural producer, byways, and you’ll quickly discover why in Washington State
and some of these byways pass through the heart of the state’s diversity is an understatement.

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 5


WASHINGTON STATE
All American Roads and

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Scenic Byways
2 route NAME Page
19 18
All American Roads

1 Chinook Pass Scenic Byway 9


2 International Selkirk Loop 15

18 National scenic Byways


23
23
3 Coulee Corridor 21
4 Mountains to Sound Greenway 25
3
5 Stevens Pass Greenway 29
2 6 Strait of Juan de Fuca - Highway 112 33
7 White Pass Scenic Byway 37

state scenic Byways

8 Cape Flattery Tribal Scenic Byway 40


9 Cascade Loop 42
10 Cascade Valleys 46
11 Chuckanut Drive 48
J

12 Columbia River Gorge 50


13 Cranberry Coast Scenic Byway 52
14 Hidden Coast Scenic Byway 54
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21 15 Lewis and Clark Trail 56
16 Mt. Baker Scenic Byway 60
17 North Cascades Scenic Highway 62
21 18 North Pend Oreille Scenic Byway 64
19 Okanogan Trails 66
21
3 20 Pacific Coast Scenic Byway 68
21 21 Palouse Scenic Byway 72
22 San Juan Islands Scenic Byway 74
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23 Sherman Pass Scenic Byway 76
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24 Spirit Lake Memorial Highway 78
15 25 Swiftwater Corridor 80
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26 Whidbey Scenic Isle Way 82


15 27 Yakama Scenic Byway 84
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28 Yakima River Canyon 86

All American Road Rest Area Airport About this tour guide
National Byway Ski Resort Military Airport The byways are broken down into three tiers: All American
Roads, National Scenic Byways and State Scenic Byways.
State Byway Customs Dam
These designations are awarded by the U.S. Department
of Transportation’s Federal Highway Administration.
To learn more, please refer to the resource section on page 88.

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 7


mT. Rainier
Lake
8 Tipsoo, Chinook Pass Summit Photo by BAUNTON
all american roads

Chinook Pass
The Chinook Pass Scenic Byway runs from the rolling fields of Enumclaw
west of the Cascades to the Naches Valley east of the range.
Along the way, this two-lane pass wraps around the
northeastern flank of iconic Mount Rainier.

D riving this byway will give you a first-hand


answer to that ubiquitous Washington
State question, “Is the Mountain out?” But
Cascades will give way to the sparser tamaracks and
ponderosa pines of eastern Washington’s foothills.
At the byway’s end there are many rewards; miles of
picture-perfect glimpses of the tallest peak in the horizon, abundant wildlife, farm stands filled with
continental United States aren’t all this route has to local produce and, usually, warm weather and blue
offer. This is a “boots-on” byway that presents every eastern Washington skies.
opportunity to step out of the car into dense forests, Before you jump in your car and head out,
alongside rollicking rivers and onto high desert remember a portion of this route is a seasonally
plains. It seems there is a new microclimate every restricted road—plan your trip between late May
other mile, so bring along extra layers of clothes, a and late November.
solid pair of shoes, and don’t forget your camera.
At the start of the byway, 14,410-foot-tall Mount Enumclaw
Rainier steals the scene and challenges the sky. The city of Enumclaw, set between plateau
Pause in Rainier’s foothills to explore an old-growth farmlands and the Cascade Mountains, is
forest or snowshoe a placid path. As you travel east, sometimes referred to as the “gateway to Mount
rushing water seems your constant companion, Rainier National Park,” although the folks over in
as this road follows routes carved by the White, Elbe and Ashford may disagree.
Greenwater, American and Naches rivers long ago. Spend a little time in town, relax and get ready
Finally, the dense Douglas fir forests of the western to explore this nature-rich byway. The downtown
photo: brett baunton

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 9


MT. RAINIER VIEW ALONG THE WAY chinook pass

area has corner cafes where you can Park. This day-use park has more than bums with sporting-equipment rentals,
fill up on scratch cooking for your 600 acres of old-growth evergreens and coffee stands, a welcoming tavern and
journey. Try timing your visit with one offers 12 miles of hiking trails, including a general store with a wide front porch.
of Enumclaw’s many seasonal events; three short interpretive loops that are There’s even a business housed in a log
the town hosts professional and amateur great for kids. cabin (of course) that’s been selling
bike races, street festivals, an annual The park’s Catherine Montgomery custom-made knit caps since the 1970s.
Fourth of July parade, the wild and Interpretive Center (named for a If you visit in fall, be sure to watch
wonderful Scottish Highland Games pioneer educator) is open May through from the bridge in the heart of town for
and much more. Also, if you noticed a September and features a geological spawning salmon swimming upstream.
lot of farms with gorgeous horses on the history of the nearby White River, plus There are other excellent migration
way into town, it’s because Enumclaw plants on display from the park’s nine viewing spots nearby; just ask at the local
is one of the biggest thoroughbred different ecosystems. “tavern”—a friendly place that’s actually
breeding and boarding areas in the a bar and grill, where kids are welcome.
United States. Greenwater
Farther along is the little town of Incomparable Rainier views
Mud Mountain Dam Greenwater and the historic Naches Twenty-three miles east of Enumclaw
A little farther up SR-410, Mud Trail, on which the earliest settlers is your first dazzling glimpse of Mount
Mountain Dam Recreational Area is a arrived here in wagons. Many years Rainier. Fortunately, there’s a highway
popular day-use facility for the whole later, the first visitors to newly opened pullout here, since this stunning sight
family. Centered on a dam built on Mount Rainier National Park drove can be distracting. Stay alert for passing
the White River in the 1940s, the park that same route. motorists whose attention may be more
has plenty of grassy areas, playgrounds, Don’t make the mistake of speeding on the view than on the road. Also, keep
a wading pool with a fountain and a past this forested town; posted speed careful watch for elk crossings along this
forested nature trail. limits are strictly enforced. Besides, popular stretch of byway.
Eagles, owls and herons are common Greenwater is the perfect spot to stop, Another great view can be found at
here, and you may even spot elk or beavers. stretch your legs and grab coffee. It’s the nearby Suntop Lookout, about 7 miles
last town before the pass, and the “hasn’t off SR-410 over two forest service roads
Federation Forest State Park changed for decades” ambience of this best traveled by all-wheel-drive vehicles.
About 18 miles east of Enumclaw is place is undeniable. Tranquil Greenwater A 1934 fire lookout, now listed on the
the stunning Federation Forest State caters to locals, road warriors and ski National Register of Historic Places,

10
chinook
namePASS

MOUNT rainier national park

perched 3,000 feet above White River, this is also a very popular mountain Mountain Boulevard is the point where
Suntop has a 360-degree perspective biking destination. the Chinook Scenic Byway closes for the
on the Cascades, the distant Olympic Before getting much closer to Crystal winter. So, road conditions permitting,
Mountains and even Mount Baker, 150 Mountain and Sunrise, stop in at the everything up to this point is accessible
miles away to the north. historic Silver Creek Guard Station, year round.
a visitor center open daily from May
Skookum Falls and the to October. Mount Rainier National Park
Pallisades trailhead The byway traverses the northeast
Back on SR-410, note Skookum Crystal Mountain: Not just a corner of Mount Rainier National Park,
Falls along the west side of the White winter playground a true Washington wonderland. Just 15
River, cascading in a pair of narrow tiers During winter, Washington’s largest miles off the byway, via the White River
and dropping 250 feet. Spring runoff ski resort, Crystal Mountain, has 2,600 entrance (a $15 fee per car is required),
season is the best time to catch the falls, acres of world-class terrain for skiers and is the scenic drive to the park’s Sunrise
and there is a parking area for viewing. snowboarders, along with many slope-side Visitor Center, the mountain’s highest
Skookum Falls is near the trailhead to lodging and dining options. A new high- elevation (6,400 feet) accessible by car.
the Palisades rock formation, an array speed gondola allows skiers to make even The view of Mount Rainier from
of dramatic columnar basalt cliffs and more runs on those perfect powder days. Sunrise is powerful. The mountain is
plateaus located in the northwest corner The addition of the Mount Rainier
of White River Park. It can be seen Gondola seals Crystal’s reputation as a
from the Suntop Lookout road, which world-class ski resort, but it also means
photos: TOP, PATRICK BENNETT; bottom, Jason Anglin

is accessed from the Huckleberry that Crystal Mountain is no longer just


Creek Road (FS-73). for snow enthusiasts. The gondola
If you have time for an approximately climbs almost 2,500 feet from the
4-mile hike, there is foot access to mountain’s base to the top in under
closer views of the falls and the 10 minutes. Now visitors can access
Palisades on the Skookum Flats Trail. mountaintop dining and a stunning
Find Huckleberry Creek Road (FS-73), view of Mount Rainier year round,
25 miles past Enumclaw. Drive a half making Crystal Mountain a true
mile to the trailhead, on the east side of four-season resort destination.
ol a
FS-73. A word of caution to hikers; Just beyond the turnoff to Crystal t gond
l mt. r esor
cr ysta

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 11


The Silver Forest Trail is a short, Cross the pedestrian footbridge that spans
family-friendly, 1-mile hike featuring the highway at the Chinook Summit,
interpretive exhibits. The Emmons Vista and find high-country birds like the sooty
Trail is also terrific for kids; a 1-mile grouse and mountain chickadees
round-trip leads to great views of Mount along the 3.5-mile Naches Park Loop.
Rainier and the Emmons Glacier, the This is also a great stroll for
largest glacier in the lower 48 states. experiencing the riot of wildflowers that
Fremont Lookout is a longer trail, peak here in late July.
a 5.5-mile round trip hike, through
meadowland and over crags, that leads Down the eastern slopes
to a spot where hikers can actually see Back on SR-410, you’ll get a breathtaking
Seattle’s Space Needle with binoculars. view looking east over the American River
Grand Park, a 13-mile round trip, reveals Valley, from a viewpoint just past the
a canyon that was filled in with lava 5,432-foot Chinook Pass summit. Sheep
many millennia ago. Look for a small Lake Trailhead, accessing the epic north-
herd of resident elk on this hike. south Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail,
is just across the street.
Tipsoo at the top Hikers looking for a nice day crossing
About 8 miles past the entrance through a cool forest should be pleased
to Sunrise, the byway winds upward with the 5-mile trail off Mesatchee
along a series of switchbacks to another Creek Road (itself off SR-410). From
popular stop and photo-op—Tipsoo the trailhead, a steep 4-mile ascent to the
Lake. Chances are you have seen this Mesatchee waterfall is worth the effort.
lake, with Mount Rainier reflected in its Find even more fun at Bumping Lake
still waters, even if you’ve never visited. Recreation Area, where the centerpiece
It’s one of the most photographed nature is a midsize mountain lake that’s a great
scenes in the United States. place to fish for kokanee, salmon and
Located just before the Chinook rainbow trout. A marina with fishing-
Pass summit, this tiny shimmering lake boat rentals, multiple campgrounds and
is surrounded by a dazzling field of an abundance of hiking trails makes this
wildflowers in spring and summer while a popular family getaway.
silver falls
Mount Rainier poses majestically in
the background. There are hiking trails, Boulder Cave
no longer a distant icon; it’s a hulking including a short, paved, nature walk Spelunkers should turn onto a
presence (and a technically active and the Naches Loop Trail, excellent for road marked “Boulder Cave National
volcano). At Sunrise, you stand on the young kids. Try to spot the small herd of Recreation Trail” (a popular birding
mountain’s flanks. Learn more, and elk that grazes here. trail). A bridge over the Naches
prepare to explore the subalpine terrain, This is also a popular birding area. River leads
at the Sunrise Visitor Center (open daily SR-410 is the jumping-off elk h e
rd

from early July to early October), which point for a handful of


also offers guided walks. Audubon Washington’s
Great Washington State
Take a hike Birding Trails, this birding
One of the great pleasures of Sunrise is region, on the eastern slopes
the availability of hiking trails of varying of the Cascades, is the Great
degrees of difficulty, all showcasing natural Washington State Birding
glories and leading to scenic overlooks. Trail—Sun and Sage Loop.

12
chinook PASS

to a mile-long walk to Boulder Cave, a Naches (pronounced nat-CHEEZE), Pull into Naches
400-foot-deep cave where a dwindling turn onto US-12 and stop at the Oak The byway’s end point, Naches,
population of Townsend’s big-eared bats Creek Wildlife Area feeding station for is a tiny community 13 miles northwest
hibernates during the winter (the cave is an encounter with one of the biggest of Yakima near the banks of the Naches
closed to the public at that time). herds of Rocky Mountain elk in the River. The town is a gateway between
Take one of the offered tours or be country. The feeding station operates the wild forests of the Cascades and
your own guide, but bring flashlights in the winter when the Yakima herd of the fruit orchards of the Yakima
(with plenty of extra batteries) and more than 1,000 elk comes down from Valley. The portion you see from
something warm to wear. It’s about snowy higher elevations. the highway does not tell the full
50 degrees in the cave, even on a hot Bring warm clothes, arrive at the story of this community. The area
summer day. visitor center prior to the 1:30 p.m. was settled in the 1850s, when some
feeding time and take a truck tour out of the members of the Longmire
Dining, lodging and supplies in Cliffdell to the feeding grounds for a close-up wagon train decided to opt for the
Cliffdell, a quiet area in the woods of view of these massive animals. Continue region’s warmer, drier climes instead
Wenatchee National Forest, is a good along SR-410 to see the Cleman of pushing on to the rainy Pacific
place for travelers to pick up supplies, Mountain year-round bighorn sheep coast. Pull into Naches’ quaint little
grab a great meal or even book a room feeding station. downtown for some antique shopping
after the scenic drive over the pass. Don’t overlook the birds. Lewis’s and local dining.
Heading down the east side of this woodpeckers, golden eagles, turkey The Naches Valley is an agricultural
byway, visitors pass through a transition vultures and myriad other birds abound area with a bounty of fruit orchards
zone as the dense forests thin out, in these garry-oak woodlands, basalt (primarily apple and pear) and
revealing the dramatic underpinnings of cliffs and sage-covered hills. This area is vineyards. Be sure to load up on
the land. The changing landscape reveals also part of the Great Washington State fresh-picked seasonal fruits and
mesmerizing, almost dreamlike evidence Birding Trail—Sun and Sage Loop. vegetables at the many roadside stands.
of ancient volcanic activity. Watch for
unique, drooping geologic landforms on
the north side of the byway just east of
Cliffdell. Wide shoulders on both sides
Planning Tips Driving Distance 87 MILES

of the road enable visitors to stop and Getting There: The western Drive time 2 hours
look (bring binoculars) across the river starting point, Enumclaw, is
plan to spend 1 day
approximately 40 miles (50 minutes) southeast
at prehistoric lava outcroppings where
of Seattle. The byway is 87 miles long, heading
eagles nest. best seasons* spring, summer, fall
east from Enumclaw to Naches, following the
Mather Memorial Highway (SR-410). Chinook top adventures
Naches River Pass is closed from just beyond the Crystal
Mountain Ski Area at milepost 57 to Morse * Much of the route is open year round, but Chinook Pass is
The Naches River is your constant closed during winter. (See “Getting There” for details.)
Creek at milepost 74 on the east side between
companion along this part of the byway. approximately the end of November and the end
photos: left, PATRICK BENNETT; RIght, MARCUS YEAROUT

It dodges between high basalt cliffs and of May. Check www.dot.wa.gov for road conditions and seasonal closures.
eddies into deep-green pools. White-
Gas, Food and Lodging: Accommodations ranging from cabins to hotels to condos to hostel-
water enthusiasts enjoy this river’s Class style bunks can be found in the larger towns along the byway, as well as at Crystal Mountain.
II and III rapids during the high-water Campgrounds are plentiful, as are RV parks. Fuel and other services are available, though there are long
months of May and June. Campers stretches of highway without them. Greenwater is your last fuel stop until you reach Cliffdell, 53 miles up
and over the Chinook Pass summit.
enjoy the many campgrounds along this
river year round. Connected or Nearby Scenic Byways:
White Pass, Yakima River Canyon
Elk and bighorn sheep feeding stations Local ResourceS: Chinook Scenic Byway chinookscenicbyway.com, White Pass Scenic Byway
Wildlife lovers shouldn’t miss this www.whitepassbyway.com, Visit Rainier www.visitrainier.com
2-mile detour. Just before the town of

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 13


metaline
14 falls
all american roads

International Selkirk Loop


This grand, 280-mile, pear-shaped route is perfect for drivers who love
sweeping curves of roadway and prefer snow-dusted mountains
and deep river gorges for company instead of traffic.

T his loop provides a taste of international


travel as it meanders from Washington into
British Columbia, Canada, then back down into
the United States via Idaho, encircling the Selkirk
Mountains.
Take the North Pend Oreille Scenic Byway
(pronounced “pond-o-RAY”) and add some of
SR-20 as a southern tail—all the way down to the
town of Newport, on Washington’s border with
Idaho—and you’ve got Washington’s 73-mile leg of
the International Selkirk Loop.
The byway runs parallel to the Pend Oreille
River’s northbound waters and passes through
Colville National Forest. Established by Theodore
Roosevelt, the 1.1-million-acre forest is a favorite
for wildlife watchers and visitors interested in the
area’s natural and human history. There is solitude
and magnificent scenery in the Selkirk Mountains,
foothills to the Rockies, and an array of recreation
for anyone who loves camping, hiking, boating and
sightseeing in colorful communities.
Forage for wild huckleberries and camp along
lakes, rivers and streams. Explore almost 500 miles
of hiking, mountain biking and horse trails. Discover
this region’s abundant wildlife, including grizzly and
black bears, cougars, bald eagles and the last herd of
caribou in the continental United States.

Starting in Newport, Washington


The southern gateway to Washington’s slice of the
International Selkirk Loop, Newport, located on
the state’s border with Idaho, was once a significant
commerce center that included a small armada
photo: ben tobin

of steamboats on the Pend Oreille River. Today


Newport boasts a charming downtown that’s worth
a stroll whether you’re seeking hand-dipped ice

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 15


and local forests. The museum also Park, just east of Newport on LeClerc
features a Burlington Northern caboose, Road, has an archaeological interpretive
various farm equipment, reconstructed trail with displays about the region’s
log cabins and a relocated U.S. Forest Kalispel Tribe of Native Americans. The
Service (USFS) fire lookout station. engrossing exhibits include an elevated
Next door, Centennial Plaza features boardwalk overlooking a 4,000-year-old
an impressive artifact from the bygone oven, where the Kalispels once baked
days of the timber industry—the Big camas root.
Wheel, part of an 83,000-pound, 16-foot This starchy root was a food staple
steam-driven sawmill power plant. One for both indigenous people and settlers
block north of downtown is the Newport in the Northwest. Visit during spring
Ranger Station, which can provide and you’ll be treated to meadows of
information on hiking, biking and camas flowers in full bloom, painting
snowmobiling in Colville National Forest. the prairies with a blue haze. Park at
Begin your outdoor recreation on the day-use area in the Pioneer Park
this byway at the northern edge of Campground to access this trail.
Newport. At the intersection of SR-20 The trail also provides beautiful views
and Warren Avenue, turn north and of the river and potential glimpses of
follow N. Warren 1 mile to the Lower many birds, including eagles, osprey,
Wolf trailhead, one of three trails in the waterfowl, and warblers.
Wolf Trail System managed by Colville
National Forest. The Lower Wolf Trail Nearby birding hot spots. Birders should
is a scenic 1-mile loop through a mixed take in Calispell Lake, north of Newport.
conifer forest with views of the Pend Travel 12 miles on SR-20 and turn left
Oreille River. The two upper trails, west on Westside Calispell Road; a 6-mile loop
of SR-20 are suited for mountain biking will take you back to the highway when
and cross-country skiing. you’re ready.
Fans of beautiful and fragrant lavender This is a privately owned lake and
fields can rejoice. The annual big draw wetland, but birders don’t have to trespass
to this town is the Pend Oreille Valley to add to their life lists. This marsh area
Lavender Festival in July, celebrating attracts migrating birds in the spring and
this locally grown herb when blossoms fall, and there’s plenty to see from the
are at their purple peak. Events include public road. Tundra and trumpeter swans,
tours, music, gourmet foods, fine arts, sandhill cranes, raptors from bald eagles
lavender plants and products, hands- to goshawks, various waterfowl, and
on art demonstrations for kids and hummingbirds are just a sampling of the
adults, workshops, lavender distilling avian life that thrives in this spot.
Hiking Idaho Peak, British columbia
demonstrations and more.
Lavender’s not the only plant in town, Birding on the Pend Oreille. Another
cream from an antique soda fountain or however. Travelers visiting in May can side trip for birding is 11 miles north
an adult thirst quencher at a watering check out a local commercial iris field in full of Usk—just north of Newport—on
hole that’s been around since 1894. bloom and dig bulbs to take home. Rodeo the east side of the Pend Oreille River.
Drop in at the Newport Visitor’s lovers can enjoy a PWRA sanctioned event There’s parking near a hatchery building
Center and the Pend Oreille County in late June including a fun carnival. and year-round foot trails and vantage
Historical Museum (located on the same points from which to observe a host of
site) to learn more about the region’s Pioneer Park. Set in a forest and adjacent species in diverse habitats.
past and its economic ties to the river to the Pend Oreille River, Pioneer Watch for great blue herons, warblers,

16
international SELKIRK LOOP

Virginia rails, sora, hawks, owls, grouse,


swans, violet green swallows, thrushes,
song sparrows, yellow chat, and marsh
wrens. Wetland areas are closed to traffic
during waterfowl nesting season.
For more birding sites and maps in the
area go to www.selkirkloop.org and click
on activities, then birding.

Kalispel tribal culture. Fifteen miles north


of Newport, the small community of
K alis
pel t
Usk (named by a Welsh immigrant after r ibe
BU f f
alo,
usk
his hometown in Wales) is home to highway 31A – west of kaslo, b.c.

the Kalispel Tribe of Indians. The tribe


operates a buffalo ranch situated on the being. The 17-acre site, once a significant north of the Camas Center on LeClerc
LeClerc Road near the Camas Center. cultural resource for Kalispel Indians and Road on the east side of the Pend Oreille
Take the bridge at Usk across the Pend the location of an old lumber mill, was River from Usk and Cusick.
Oreille River and turn north on LeClerc targeted for dike development.
Road. There is an excellent viewpoint for A 1997 flood led to a decision to The Tiger Store and Post Office. The tiny
visitors and a rare bass fish hatchery that rebuild a dike system farther inland, hamlet of Tiger was established in the
may be visited by advance reservation. opening this site to park and wetland 1880s and named for George Tiger, who
The annual Pow Wow is held the last education development. Visitors can built a boat landing on the river here.
weekend of July and is an excellent way now enjoy a pond, picnic area and Once a thriving town, all that remains
to witness Kalispel dancing, drumming graveled trail system. Look for eagles of Tiger today is the historic Tiger Store
and other ancient cultural traditions, perching in ponderosa pines, or and Post Office, built in 1912. In 1999,
www.kalispeltribe.com. osprey among old pilings in the river. residents turned the site into a visitor
Usk and Cusick are merely blocks Other commonly seen birds include center and museum, complete with a
apart, and there is a paved walking/biking geese, swans, ducks, cormorants, replica turn-of-the-century forge. Stop
trail with benches along the shoreline hummingbirds, and sparrows. for a snack, read the informational kiosk
connecting these two small communities. and rest before continuing through the
Manresa Grotto. Don’t miss the Manresa junction to SR-31.
Trimble Creek. Less than 4 miles past Grotto on the Kalispel Reservation. A
Cusick is a riparian woodland and steep path among massive boulders leads Nile and Frater lakes. If a quick break
meadow on the river floodplain. A to a high-roofed cave that looks out over at a small body of water before moving
primitive trail on the east side of the the Pend Oreille River and the entire farther up the byway sounds appealing,
highway accessed from LeClerc Road reservation. Once you’ve stepped inside proceed 4 miles west on SR-20 from
is another perfect ramble for birders, this cool, still place, it’s easy to understand Tiger to Tiger Meadows, a moist
photos: 2 left, david gluns; right, marcus yearout

who can see western tanagers, eagles, why this is a holy site to the native people. meadow, on the left. A half mile west
Virginia rails, red-winged and yellow- The Kalispel have held services here from there, you’ll find Nile Lake, a
headed blackbirds, bobolinks, vireos, and since the nineteenth century and still shallow lake with a primitive boat ramp.
Savannah sparrows. hold an annual Easter mass in the rock Another quarter mile to the east is Frater
shelter. A missionary named the cave Lake, a developed recreation site with
Cusick Wetland Education Site. Along the after one in Spain in which St. Ignatius, picnic facilities and restrooms. Frater
shore of the Pend Oreille River in Cusick founder of the Jesuits, prayed. Rows Lake has single- and double-track trails
is a Wetland Education Site, an example of flat stones provide seating before a for mountain bikers, and winter visitors
of creative thinking in terms of both the simple stone altar in the auditorium-like will enjoy cross-country ski trails and a
environment and the community’s well- grotto. Find this natural worship spot warming hut.

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 17


Ainsworth Hot Springs. For a relaxing soak,
don’t miss this horseshoe-shaped cave,
where the darkness, mineral deposits
and humidity combine for a unique
hot springs experience. Besides the hot
springs, pool and caves, the resort offers
first-class accommodations, a lounge and
superb dining; there is also an excellent
gift shop on the premises.

Kaslo. Known as “Paradise on the


Lake,” Kaslo has been voted one of
Canada’s prettiest towns. This charming,
crawford bay
noticeably art-oriented community has
a fun shopping district, great restaurants
North Pend Oreille Scenic Byway. This Rossland. With a population of under and a museum and is also host to the
leg of the International Selkirk Loop, 4,000, no traffic lights and not a mall Kaslo Jazz Etc. Festival every August.
SR-31, continues north into British in sight, Rossland is a small city that Highlight: SS Moyie, North America’s
Columbia. It’s such an interesting bills itself as “the real deal.” Many oldest restored sternwheeler.
stretch of road that it has its own people who visit fall under the spell
separate designation as the North of the mountains and stay, becoming Kootenay Lake ferry. Part of the B.C.
Pend Oreille Scenic Byway. Read lifelong skiers, mountain bikers highway system, this is North America’s
more about this byway in the North and adventurers. longest free ferry. The ferry takes 45
Pend Oreille section of this guide; it Highlights: Underground gold mine minutes to cross Kootenay Lake from
includes a bootleggers’ cave, cascading tour at the Rossland Historical Museum; the west to east shore and is part of
waterfalls and a movie set! From Tiger, Red Mountain Ski Resort. Highway 3A.
you can also head west on SR-20 to
Kettle Falls and connect with the Castlegar. Called the “Crossroads of the Crawford Bay artisan colony.Watch
Sherman Pass Scenic Byway. Kootenays” because of its location at the artisans in action making brooms,
strategic Highway 3 and Highway 3A throwing pots, weaving, enameling, and
Outside Washington State. The International intersection, Castlegar’s real distinction blacksmithing.
Selkirk Loop crosses into Canada, then may lie in its proximity to the several
returns to the United States by way great waterways of the area. Boswell. Located on the spectacular east
of Idaho before looping back into Highlights: The suspension bridge shore of Kootenay Lake, Boswell is a
Washington State. Here are some of to Zukerberg Island Heritage Park; quiet community where time seems to
the highlights visitors can enjoy beyond Doukhobor Discovery Centre. slow down.
Washington’s borders. Highlight: The Glass House. This
Nelson. Located 6 miles north unusual roadside attraction is a home
British Columbia, Canada of Whitewater Ski & Winter Resort, built from over half a million discarded
There are seven border crossings into Nelson is a city on the move with a embalming-fluid bottles.
Canada from eastern Washington. Along population of 9,500—the largest town on
the North Pend Oreille Scenic Byway, the B.C. side of the Selkirk Loop. It is a Creston. Creston is an outdoor lover’s
travelers follow SR-30 to the Metaline creative center for artists and culture, where delight with tree-covered hills, craggy,
Falls/Nelway border crossing. Get visitors will find an incredible selection of snow-covered mountain peaks, the
information about the documentation items produced by local artisans. Skimmerhorn Range, deep clear lakes,
that is required at the U.S.-Canada Highlights: Streetcar #23; Whitewater rippling mountain streams, and wide
border at www.dhs.gov/index.shtm. Ski & Winter Resort; Lakeside Park. open spaces. Waving fields of grains

18
international SELKIRK LOOP

and roadside fruit stands attest to


the long, lush growing season of the
Creston Valley.
Highlights: Columbia Brewery
with tours and tasting of Kokanee
Beer; Creston Valley Wildlife
Management Area for canoe tours
through the wetlands.

International border crossing. You


will enter the U.S. into Idaho at the
Rykerts-Porthill border crossing. Get
information about the documentation
Lake pend oreille from schweitzer
required at the U.S.-Canada border at
www.dhs.gov/index.shtm.
fishermen and water-sports enthusiasts the Panhandle Historic Rivers Passage
Entering Idaho of all types converge upon this vast Scenic Byway. On this route, you’ll enjoy
Wild Horse Trail Scenic Byway. In Idaho, aquatic playground. driving along miles of soothing river
travelers will connect with the Wild Highlights: Schweitzer Mountain scenery that reflects the pastoral beauty
Horse Trail Scenic Byway, which starts Ski Resort; Lake Pend Oreille—the of surrounding forests and farms.
on the northwestern shores of Lake 13th-largest freshwater lake in the Pull over and be entertained by both
Pend Oreille in the resort community world at over 1,000 feet deep; tours at resident and migrating wildlife, birds
of Sandpoint. Heading north along the Pend d’Oreille Winery, Idaho’s winery of prey and waterfowl. Learn how the
eastern side of the Selkirk Mountains, of the year. waterway played an important role in
the roadway follows the Kootenai Tribe’s developing the region dating back to
photos: left to right, courtesy kokanee springs resort club; courtesy sandpoint chamber of commerce

historic path to fishing grounds at Lake Return to Washington the Ice Age and the Great Missoula
Pend Oreille. From Sandpoint, follow US-2 Floods. You can read more about this
westbound to re-enter Washington and in the Coulee Corridor Scenic Byway
Bonners Ferry. The town of Bonners complete the loop at Newport following section of this guide.
Ferry originated as a river crossing point.
It was first traversed by Indian bark
canoes and then by Edwin Bonner’s
ferry, built in 1865 to transport the
Planning Tips Driving Distance 280 MILES

miners rushing to the new gold strike on Getting There: From Seattle, take Drive time 8 hours
I-90 to Spokane, then head north on
Wild Horse Creek in British Columbia US-2 to Newport (325 miles / 6 hours). Take SR- plan to spend 2-3 days
Highlights: Kootenai National Wildlife 20 at the town of Newport, and proceed north. A
junction at Tiger connects with SR-31, leading best seasons* year round
Refuge; Boundary County Museum. north to the Canadian border. When returning
to Seattle, consider taking SR-20 west at Tiger top adventure: 2 states / 2 countries
Sandpoint. Less than an hour north of across the Sherman Pass Scenic Byway and all
the way to US-97 to join the Okanogan Trails *The route is open year round. Check www.dot.wa.gov for road
Coeur d’Alene, the approach from Scenic Byway and Cascade Loop. conditions and seasonal closures.
the south into Sandpoint on US-95
Connected or Nearby Scenic Byways:
sets the stage for a dramatic entrance;
North Pend Oreille, Sherman Pass, Okanogan Trails, Cascade Loop,
a 2-mile-long bridge crossing over Panhandle Historic Rivers Passage (ID), Wild Horse Trail Scenic Byway (ID)
the beautiful Lake Pend Oreille.
Local ResourceS:
Sandpoint sits on the northwestern
International Selkirk Loop www.selkirkloop.org,
shore of the 43-mile lake, which comes Pend Oreille River Tourism Alliance www.porta-us.com/pages/activities/byway.asp
alive in the summer months when

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 19


dry
20 falls
NATIONAL SCENIC BYWAYS

Coulee Corridor

Coulee Corridor
This breathtaking landscape will leave you wondering
if the rest of the world really exists.

T his might happen after you wind through a


coulee and its shadow withdraws from your
windshield. Or it might happen when the clean
There are also museums, state parks, a national
recreation area, festivals, and historic reminders of
the region’s indigenous culture, the Confederated
smell of sagebrush hits you like a tonic after a dusty Tribes of the Colville.
hike to a desert plateau. It could happen when you There is something for everyone to enjoy on this
jump off a boulder into a deep blue lake and are dynamic trip.
shocked by how warm it is.
Find fishing lakes, desert hikes, little shops, dusty Columbia National Wildlife Refuge
museums, willow-shaded parks, and the fields Located north of Othello on Morgan Lake Road
that grow your food. Take a boat to a lakeshore (gravel much of the way), the Columbia National
campsite, or stay the night in a cowboy town. Once Wildlife Refuge (CNWR) is full of rich and varied
you experience the world of the Coulee Corridor, habitats, from ponds and marshes to farm fields
you will never forget it and always want to return. and shrub-steppe desert. This refuge protects more
than 230 species of birds. Sandhill cranes, avocets,
A rich wildlife and agricultural center long-billed curlews, great horned owls, and prairie
The Coulee Corridor is such an
important birding area, that Audubon
Washington has developed a Great
Washington State Birding Trail—
Coulee Corridor map. Order one at
http://wa.audubon.org. It is also home
to large concentrations of both wildlife
and wildflowers.
Dozens of field crops thrive in this
agricultural area. Grant County is the
largest grower in the state of apples
and potatoes, with major acreage
also dedicated to hay, corn, green
peas, onions and wheat. The town
of Ephrata is the state’s mint capital.
Look for signs hung on fences along
the byway that explain what’s growing
in the fields beyond.
In the towns around here it is not
photo: patrick bennett

uncommon to attend a parade in which


the “floats” are farm implements decked
out in Christmas lights or boxes of
produce. This is small-town America on
full, proud display.

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 21


body of water for year-round placid Dry Falls Lake. The Dry Falls
visitors who come to camp, Visitor Center traces the dynamic history
boat, fish and enjoy water of the cataclysmic floods that carved out
skiing and parasailing. Coulee Country.
The city of Moses Lake is
p L ake one of the largest along the Banks Lake and Steamboat Rock
at Dee
wall s
Ba salt Coulee Corridor and hosts a huge State Park
falcons are just some farmers market with over 150 vendors From US-2, head north on SR-155,
of the birds you may encounter. from May to October. Since this is some and you’ll be hugging the eastern edge of
Coyotes, bobcats and badgers live here, of the finest agricultural land in the Banks Lake as the road threads between
and yellow-bellied marmot sightings are world, the fresh, seasonal offerings staggering basalt monoliths. A reservoir
practically guaranteed. A 22-mile birding here are simply unsurpassable. See created by the Grand Coulee Dam,
loop includes an interpretive overlook at www.moseslakefarmersmarket.com. Banks Lake has 91 miles of shoreline and
Royal Lake. is popular for fishing and water sports.
Check at CNWR headquarters in Ephrata and Soap Lake Access Banks Lake at Steamboat Rock
Othello for maps and regulations on A slight detour onto SR-282 will State Park. This grand 3,522-acre park
camping, boating, hunting and hiking. take you to Ephrata, where you can see is named for the 800-foot basalt butte
Most of the refuge is closed during fall some good examples of early twentieth- that towers above it. This state park has
and winter. century architecture and check out the waterfront camping for tents and RVs,
Grant County Historical Museum. a day-use area with multiple swimming
Potholes Reservoir Shops, restaurants and gas are available beaches, boat ramps, sweeping green
From the Columbia National Wildlife here. Head north on SR-28 to get back lawns and sand dunes. Whether
Refuge, continue to SR-262, then head to the byway at Soap Lake. you travel with a fishing pole or a
east and take SR-17 north to get back to Located at the southern end of a chain wakeboard, you’ll find paradise here.
the byway. Along this route you’ll find of lakes at the Lower Grand Coulee, Just be sure to reserve a site if you
Potholes State Park, a 640-acre camping Soap Lake is a tiny inland sea historically plan on spending the night during the
park with 6,000 feet of freshwater famous for its mineral-rich water and summer; this is one of Washington’s
shoreline on Potholes Reservoir. creamy black mud. For decades, Soap most popular campgrounds.
The park is in an area known as Lake was a spa destination for people
the “scablands”—rough-hewn terrain seeking treatment for illness and injury. Northrup Canyon
formed by a combination of lava flows, Stop at the in-town beach and soak in Once traversed by wagon trains,
huge floods and strong winds. Massive the “healing waters.” Northrup Canyon, part of the
sand dunes, coulees and lava fields Steamboat Rock State Park Recreation
characterize the landscape. Dry Falls State Park Area, is a sanctuary for wildlife, with a
There are four boat ramps and 100 Slightly west of Coulee City is Dry forest (the only one in Grant County)
feet of dock for year-round water Falls State Park, the site of what was and meadows full of wildflowers in
recreation. Boating, fishing (bass, once the world’s largest waterfall—four spring. Visit this valley on horseback or
bullhead, crappie, perch), use of personal times the size of Niagara Falls. The falls on foot.
watercraft, water skiing, kayaking, and were created near the end of the last
swimming are all permitted. Ice Age, when the Missoula floods Grand Coulee Dam
diverted 500 cubic miles of water over At the northern tip of Banks Lake
Moses Lake this region in multiple thunderous and on SR-155, you’ll reach Grand Coulee
Moses Lake, located at the SR-17/I-90 epic rampages. Dam, the third-largest producer of
intersection, is a sparkling reservoir Where once there was the drama of electricity in the world and, at 550
along Crab Creek. Originally a shallow falling water, there are now 3.5 miles of feet, the largest concrete structure in
natural lake, Moses Lake was dammed bare ravine carved out by the repeated the United States. It is larger than the
for irrigation. It remains a welcoming flooding, with a 400-foot drop to the great pyramids of Egypt and generates

22
coulee corridor

steamboat rock grand coulee dam

more power than a million locomotives. As you travel the last leg of this byway Okanogan country, Omak is a year-
A visit should include a stop at the from Grand Coulee Dam to Omak, round playground featuring recreational
visitor center to learn the dam’s history. don’t miss the Sasquatch at the top of activities from camping and fishing to
Tours of the awe-inspiring structure are Disautel Pass between Nespelem and cross-country skiing and snowmobiling.
available. In addition, the dam’s smooth Omak. It’s a sculpture, of course, but The main street has a small-town feel,
concrete face serves as a projection many have reported Sasquatch sightings with great shops to browse and locally
screen for laser light shows that have in this area. owned restaurants. Annual cultural
been entertaining audiences since events include the Omak Stampede,
the 1980s. Omak: End of the trail Indian Encampment & Pow Wow and,
From Grand Coulee Dam, continue thanks to a rich Hispanic influence, one
Colville Confederated Tribes Museum west on SR-155 toward the town of the best Cinco de Mayo celebrations
Grand Coulee Dam is located on of Omak. Located in the heart of in the state.
the Colville Indian Reservation, home
to a dozen tribes (Moses, Columbia,
Wenatchee, Okanogan, Entiat-Chelan, Planning Tips Driving Distance 100 MILES
Methow, Nez Perce, Palus, Nespelem,
Getting There: From Seattle, take Drive time 2.5 hours
Colville, San Poil, and Lake) and the
I-90 east across the Columbia River
resting place of the legendary Chief at Vantage, then head south to SR-26 east to plan to spend 1–2 days
Joseph of the Nez Perce. Find the tall Othello (178 miles / 2.75 hours). The byway
begins in Othello and winds its way north best seasons* spring, summer, fall
marble monument that marks his grave
through lakes, farmland and basalt coulees,
at the Colville tribal cemetery top adventures
ending in Omak. Depending on the season, you
in Nespelem. may want to continue via the North Cascades *The route is open year round, but spring, summer and fall are best.
photos: two left, john marshall; right, marcus yearout

The history of these Native peoples is Scenic Byway (SR-20), which is closed in Check www.dot.wa.gov for road conditions and seasonal closures.
the subject of the Colville Confederated the winter. Check www.dot.wa.gov for road
conditions and seasonal closures.
Tribes Museum, located in an A-frame
in the town of Coulee Dam, on the Gas, Food and Lodging: There are motels, resorts and other accommodations,
reservation across from the Grand including camping and RV parks, as well as small, locally owned restaurants spread across this
100-mile byway. Gas is also readily available, except between Sun Lakes State Park and Grand Coulee.
Coulee Dam.
The museum features murals depicting Connected or Nearby Scenic Byways:
the Nez Perce trail and pre-dam Kettle Okanogan Trails, North Cascades, Cascade Loop

Falls, a collection of vintage photographs Local Resources: Coulee Corridor Scenic Byway www.couleecorridor.com
of Tribal members and the land before Grand Coulee Chamber of Commerce www.grandcouleedam.org
development, plus displays of basketry, Grant County Tourism, www.tourgrantcounty.com

beadwork, clothing and tools.

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 23


snoqualmie
24 falls
NATIONAL SCENIC BYWAYS

Mountains to Sound Greenway


...make your way from the skyscrapers of urban Puget Sound
up over a mountain pass then down into the ranch land
and sagebrush hills of eastern Washington.

T here’s never a dull roadside moment on the


Mountains to Sound Greenway. In terms of
diversity and time commitment, this byway delivers
Start in Seattle
The most visited attraction in all of Seattle, bar
none, is the Pike Place Market. From the famous
maximum bang for your travel buck. salmon-tossing fishmongers, to the bounty of produce,
Farmers markets like Seattle’s Pike Place Market fresh flowers and seafood, to the infamous gum wall,
and the one at Bellevue’s Mercer Slough Blueberry this is a day trip unto itself. Take a stroll through
Farm are obvious attractions, but there’s more to the nearby Olympic Sculpture Park and grab a cup
sample along the way. The Mountains to Sound of coffee at the world’s first Starbucks, then jump in
Greenway boasts over 20 small farmers markets. the car and head for the I-90 eastbound on-ramp.
The route’s characteristic Northwest landscapes
and quirky towns even caught the attention of Crossing to the Eastside
Hollywood; the television shows “Twin Peaks” and Bellevue is the first stop after crossing Lake
“Northern Exposure” were filmed in North Bend Washington on the I-90 floating bridge (yes, it
and Roslyn. actually floats). While Bellevue has become known
The Mountains to Sound Greenway connects for its high-tech skyline and high-end downtown
trails and natural areas with working farms, forests shopping district, it is surrounded by equally
and wildlife habitats. It provides easy access to compelling natural beauty. Nestled on the eastern
towering waterfalls and craggy peaks to conquer. shore of Lake Washington, the city offers plenty of
It offers snow skiing, paragliding and lodging waterfront hiking and biking trails with easy access.
in resorts that face a waterfall or a fairway. Year Nearby at Redmond’s Marymoor Park, you can
round, this road trip offers something special for stroll along a regional trail, picnic on the lawn or
every interest. watch birds or a world-class outdoor concert near the
photo: Tim Abramowitz

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 25


Name
photo: patrick bennett

pike place market rattlesnake ledge

shores of Lake Sammamish. If slow down to cruise through downtown dinner. This has been a sacred gathering
you’re lucky, you’ll get to watch a Issaquah. It is a charming community, place for indigenous people for centuries
national bicycle-racing championship. with a terrific theater troupe that and continues to delight visitors from all
Marymoor Park is home to the state’s performs Broadway musicals to packed over the world. For an extra-spectacular
only velodrome, a 400-meter banked houses, an upscale wine bar and one of show, visit the falls in the spring when
track dedicated to the sport. the region’s best Mexican restaurants. melting snow from the Cascades turns
A salmon hatchery at the end of town up the volume a few notches.
Mercer Slough Nature Park and provides helpful information about Historic downtown Snoqualmie
Environmental Education Center the life cycle of salmon, and if you is worth a cruise while you’re in the
Located on a biologically diverse show up between mid-September and neighborhood. It features unique shops,
320-acre wetland in the heart of urban mid-October, you’ll be treated to the a vibrant restaurant scene, a large tribal
Bellevue, the Mercer Slough Nature Park fascinating sight of thousands of salmon casino, local arts and festivals, and a lot
and Environmental Education Center is returning “home” to spawn in Issaquah of outdoor recreation. It is also home
operated jointly by the City of Bellevue Creek after a lifetime out at sea. The to the Northwest Railway Museum, the
and Pacific Science Center in Seattle. community-wide Salmon Days Festival largest railway museum in Washington
Family workshops, including night is held the first weekend of October. See State, which offers scenic excursions
walks, snowshoe outings and “Scouts www.salmondays.org. aboard antique train cars along a 5-mile
in the Wild” programs, are an excellent Nearby Tiger Mountain provides stretch of historic railway.
way to engage your kids in the natural some of the nicest woodland trails
world as long as you don’t mention the in the area and rewards hikers with North Bend
word “educational.” See www.pacsci.org/ spectacular views of downtown Seattle North Bend is located 30 miles east of
slough for more information. and across the Sound to the Olympic Seattle on I-90. Surrounded by stunning
While in the area, be sure to swing by Mountain Range. This is also a popular vistas of Mount Si, Rattlesnake Ridge
the Bellevue Parks Department’s Mercer hang gliding and paragliding launch and the Cascade Mountains, North
Slough Blueberry Farm, which carries site. Lessons and tandem flights with an Bend has a well-maintained historic
seasonal fresh produce, flowers and other experienced pilot are available. downtown and offers an eclectic mix
farm products. Visitors can pick their of dining and shopping. The area offers
own blueberries when they’re in season, Snoqualmie Falls impressive hiking and bicycling trails
from mid-July to late August, www. Near the town of Snoqualmie, the and paths, including the most famous
ci.bellevue.wa.us/blueberry_farm.htm. mists of the magnificent 268-foot and popular hike in Washington State,
Snoqualmie Falls rise from the river. the Mount Si Trail, a strenuous 8-mile
Into the foothills Enjoy the rush from the observation roundtrip hike with an elevation gain of
Within a few minutes of Bellevue, deck or at the restaurant over lunch or over 4,000 feet. 

26
mountains to sound greenway

bar and eatery are at once familiar and “to-see” list. The Telephone Museum,
welcoming. The multicultural cemetery at located downtown, provides a unique
the end of town is a fascinating glimpse of peek into the days of the “let me connect
how the cultural and religious segregation you” switchboard operator that few
that separated the citizens of the small people today can remember.
community during life, now continues
through eternity. Stop by the local The “old road” to Thorp and Ellensburg
museum to get the details on this as well For a glimpse of the highway system
rg as on the area’s rich coal-mining history. before the interstates bypassed many of
ild ing , ellensbu
davidso n bu
A new golf community nearby has our country’s small rural communities,
Just west of downtown North Bend, generated much enthusiasm and will follow SR-10 from the south end of Cle
you will find the westernmost trailhead play a vital role in the ongoing economic Elum past decaying wooden irrigation
to the John Wayne Iron Horse State development of the region. Along with flumes to Thorp with its restored grist
Park. This 100-mile trail was once part the links, hiking and biking trails, mill and popular fruit stand/antique store.
of the path of the Chicago-Milwaukee- boutique lodging and excellent dining From Thorp continue to Ellensburg, the
St. Paul-Pacific Railroad and includes overlooking the golf course combine to home to Central Washington University,
several trestles and tunnels. This hiking, make this a worthwhile destination. and check out its historic downtown
biking and equestrian trail leads up and Cle Elum, located just a few miles east district, burgeoning artist community and
over Snoqualmie Pass through a tunnel of Roslyn, features several locally owned fabulous farmers market.
and all the way to the Columbia River restaurants and a popular Italian market Get more information about the
at Vantage. that makes its own specialty sausage and surrounding recreational opportunities
also features a great selection of cheeses and historic communities in the
Snoqualmie Pass and olives. A coffee roaster and historic Swiftwater Corridor Scenic Byway
The summit at Snoqualmie Pass is bakery should also be added to your section of this guide.
best known for its winter recreation
opportunities—and with four ski
areas, hundreds of cross-country skiing
and snowshoeing trails and miles of Planning Tips Driving Distance 101 MILES

snowmobiling roads, these opportunities Getting There: From Seattle, take Drive time 1.5 hours
are nearly endless. But it is also a popular I-90 eastbound. This 101-mile journey
will lead you out of Seattle, through the foothills plan to spend 1 day
photos: left to right, big stock; Mountains to Sound Greenway; marcus yearout

birding, hiking, biking, river-rafting,


of the Cascade Mountain Range, and up and over
and canoeing destination in the spring, Snoqualmie Summit, and then will descend into best seasons* year round
summer and fall. Gentle mountain the desert plains and winding rivers that link Cle
top adventures
streams meander through wildflower Elum and Ellensburg.

meadows that are nestled in the valleys *I-90 is open year round, but winter driving conditions can change
Gas, Food and Lodging: quickly. Check www.dot.wa.gov for road conditions and closures.
beneath towering peaks. This is one of Every community along the byway, from
the most popular hiking areas in the Bellevue, Issaquah and North Bend on the west side to historic Roslyn, Cle Elum and Ellensburg on the east side,
features excellent lodging that ranges from top-notch Northwest-style resorts to rustic campgrounds. There are
state, due to its close proximity
many good family-owned restaurants that feature locally sourced ingredients and friendly conversation. Just ask
to Seattle. around to find out where the locals gather. Gas can be found in all the communities along the byway, but always
gas up before you head into any of the wilderness areas.
Roslyn and Cle Elum
Connected or Nearby Scenic Byways: Swiftwater Corridor, Yakima River Canyon, Stevens Pass
A historic coal mining community, Greenway alternate loop: For an extremely scenic loop trip back from Ellensburg through Leavenworth,
Roslyn was the home to the popular take US-97 over Blewitt Pass and return to western Washington via US-2 and the Stevens Pass Scenic Byway.
TV series “Northern Exposure,” where
Local ResourceS:
it stood in for the fictional city of Mountain to Sound Greenway Trust www.mtsgreenway.org
Cicely, Alaska. The authentic, original National Scenic Byways www.byways.org/explore/byways/2228
downtown buildings and historic local

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 27


jolanda
28 lake, near wenatchee river
NATIONAL SCENIC BYWAYS

Stevens Pass Greenway


Follow the route of an old Great Northern Railway line while clinging
to the winding paths of the Skykomish and Wenatchee rivers.

O n this leisurely, scenic slice of the much longer


Cascade Loop, travelers will wind through
hamlets in the foothills, drive alongside tumbling
swifts. Stop to enjoy the enchanting Bavarian-style
town of Leavenworth.
The Greenway actually begins near Monroe, but
rapids and discover what travel used to be like before you should consider a stop at some of the local
all the good spots were bypassed. attractions you’ll encounter along the way in Everett
The road widens out where it counts, at the top of and Tulalip.
4,060-foot Stevens Pass, where skiers rip down the
slopes and the Cascades reach for the sky. But once In and around Everett
you’re safely over the summit, it’s back to two-lane Everett has become an aviation center for
scenic leisure again as the byway guides you through both modern and historic flight. To see today’s
pine forests, past steep river gorges and into the latest aviation miracles, you must visit the Future
rolling hills and fruit orchards of the sunny side of of Flight Aviation Center & Boeing Tour, www.
the Cascades. Outdoor adventurers and gift-shop futureofflight.org. To brush up on historical flight,
explorers alike will find exactly what they’re looking see Paul Allen’s Flying Heritage Collection, of
for along this byway. vintage military aircraft, www.flyingheritage.com,
and the brand new Historic Flight Education Center,
Things to do www.historicflight.org, all located at Paine Field.
Along the way you’ll pass through small In summer, take a free ferry ride to Jetty Island—
communities, each with a unique personality. Look Everett’s 2-mile-long scenic gem. Jetty Island’s
for a tiny wayside chapel and a reptile zoo; a honey beaches are among Puget Sound’s sandiest, and the
wine meadery and a handcrafted brewery; a caboose waters are a kite boarder’s paradise. Jetty naturalists
turned diner that serves up a great cheeseburger and a offer group tours throughout the summer. Visit
thick old-fashioned milkshake; and a town that hosts www.ci.everett.wa.us and type “Jetty” into the
one of the world’s largest annual gatherings of Vaux’s search field for more information.
photo: PATRICK BENNETT

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 29


In late 2011, the Tulalip
Tribe opened the Hibulb
Cultural Center and Natural
History Preserve to honor the
ant
g ev er et t pl
ancestors of local tribes and at th e bo ein
Dr eamliner

teach visitors the tribe’s and share the experience.


history and way of life. Check Visit www.vauxhappening.org for
www.tulaliptribes-nsn.gov more information.
for updated information.
Curiosities along the way
Monroe For another kind of wildlife, be sure to
Home to the Evergreen State Fair, swing into the odd reptile zoo located on
Monroe is a small pastoral community US-2 about a mile east of Monroe. You’ll
located near the junction of the meet the “reptile man” who has fascinated
Snoqualmie and Skykomish rivers. schoolchildren in the area for years with
Monroe provides outdoor recreational his collection of snakes, lizards, two-
opportunities such as swimming, rafting, headed turtles and other creatures.
fishing and other water sports. The You’ll also pass a tiny wayside chapel.
nearby river valley is a popular cycling Holding no more than a dozen people,
spot. If you ride here, don’t forget to this little house of prayer and meditation
bring a basket to carry the fresh produce was built by a local dairy farmer in
stevens pass ski resort
you’ll find at the many farm stands in 1962 and is open to the public. People
this fertile floodplain. often leave personal notes on the pulpit,
ranging from the silly to the sublime.
Vaux’s swift migration: a local tradition
Visit Monroe in September or Waterfalls and wilderness day hikes
October and experience a rare treat. Tens at every turn
of thousands of Vaux’s swifts, migrating A few miles east of Monroe are several
from the Northwest to Mexico, Central rewarding hiking sites. In Gold Bar,
America and Venezuela, stop along you’ll find Wallace Falls State Park,
the way to roost in a chimney at Frank which offers an easy ascent leading to
Wagner Elementary School in Monroe. views of gorgeous waterfalls. A 7-mile
The sheer volume of the flock and the loop trail above the falls provides a
speed at which the birds zoom to and fro panoramic view of the valley.
brings thousands of residents and visitors As you approach the town of Index,
together with lawn chairs and picnic Mount Index is directly to the south of
baskets to watch the nightly acrobatics the Skykomish River; it’s an imposing

Electric Car Plug-in Project


As major companies like GM, Ford, Honda, Nissan and Toyota as well as a host of small independent
manufacturers add new lines of electric vehicles to their fleets, 2011 will see the arrival of hundreds
of electric cars to the Puget Sound region, all requiring convenient and plentiful plug-in stations.
To enhance rural tourism in Washington, a series of electric-car fast-charging stations is being
installed along a stretch of US-2 from just north of Seattle in Everett, over the Cascade Mountains,
to popular tourist destinations including the cities of Leavenworth, Wenatchee and Lake Chelan.
Visit www.plugincenter.com or call 509-663-5159 for more information and station locations.

30 leavenworth area
STEVENS PASS GREENWAY

sight at nearly 6,000 feet. Lush forests Stevens Pass Leavenworth


envelop the gorgeous trail to Lake Serene Stevens Pass, at just over 4,000 feet, This Bavarian-themed village appears
under Mount Index’s three spires, a is known primarily as a ski resort but completely authentic and enchanting,
7-mile round-trip hike with an elevation also offers abundant hiking trails to nestled in the foothills and bustling
gain of about 2,000 feet. enjoy during warmer months. In 2011 with activity. During Maifest in spring,
Another option at Mount Index is a the resort added a world-class downhill you can see Tyrolean dancers and check
short trail leading to stunning views of mountain-bike trail system, which will out (or enter) the “Looking Good in
Bridal Veil Falls, cascading from Lake make Stevens Pass an extremely popular Lederhosen” contest. And of course no
Serene. If you opt to drive on instead year-round destination. self-respecting “German” village would
of hiking, don’t miss Eagle Falls just be complete without an Oktoberfest
beyond Index on the right side of US-2. Lake Wenatchee State Park celebration, and Leavenworth’s is one
Here the Skykomish River drops into As US-2 descends on the eastern of the largest in the world outside
a handful of deep blue pools. There are slope of the Cascades, get on SR-207 Germany. Also make plans to visit the
pullouts, and this is a popular swimming northbound for a brief drive to Lake Washington State Autumn Leaf Festival
hole in late summer. Wenatchee State Park. Formed by a on the last weekend of September.
glacier and fed by the White River and
Skykomish Little Wenatchee River, the lake is Peshastin Pinnacles State Park
Turn into the town of Skykomish and perfect for swimming, boating This amazing 34-acre desert park is 6 miles
go back to a time when the railroads and fishing. east of Peshastin and features sandstone
ruled. During boom times, miners, Lake Wenatchee is also a popular slabs and spires reaching 200 feet. The
loggers and rail workers made this winter play area, with miles of groomed park offers rock climbing and trails that
remote place a raucous hub. Today, cross-country ski trails, a tubing and lead to territorial views of surrounding
the historic buildings—including a sledding park and ice fishing on nearby orchards, the Enchantments Basin and
wonderful art deco school building— Fish Lake. Rustic camping is available. Lakes, and the Wenatchee River valley.
remain, but “Sky” is a bit sleepier. Stop
for lunch alongside the rushing river and
photos: left, john marshall; top right, Courtesy of the Future of Flight Aviation Center & Boeing Tour

listen as trains rumble through town (20


a day); you’ll be transported back to a Planning Tips Driving Distance 90 MILES

time before this byway existed. Getting There: From Seattle, take Drive time 2 hours
I-5 north to Everett, then head east on
US-2 to Monroe (40 miles / 45 minutes). The plan to spend 1 day
Iron Goat Trail 90-mile National Scenic Byway begins at Everett
If you want to experience more and heads east, ending at Peshastin Pinnacles best seasons* year round
railroad history, hike the Iron Goat Trail, State Park on the eastern slopes of the Cascade
Mountains, 10 miles east of Leavenworth. top adventures
which follows a track the Great Northern
Railway abandoned after it built an *The route is open year round.Check www.dot.wa.gov for road
Gas, Food and Lodging: Lodging,
conditions and seasonal closures.
8-mile tunnel in 1929. Old timbers and gas and restrooms are easy to find in the
towns on this byway. Campgrounds are available but very limited, with few amenities. A Savor
tunnels are a constant reminder that
Washington Itinerary: Leavenworth is available at www.agr.wa.gov/Marketing/SmallFarm/SavorWA.aspx.
trains once roared through, and the trail Stop by any of the roadside produce stands to pick up a map of the area’s farms and fruit stands where
has wheelchair-accessible and barrier-free visitors are welcome to tour and taste.
sections.
Connected or Nearby Scenic Byways: Part of the Cascade Loop which includes:
Volunteers for Outdoor Washington North Cascade Scenic Byway, Whidbey Scenic Isle Way, and connects to the Mountains to
offer guided hikes lasting three to six Sound Greenway and the Swiftwater Corridor via Blewett Pass.
hours during the summer. No sign-up
Local Resources: Stevens Pass Greenway www.stevenspassgreenway.org
is necessary; just meet at the Skykomish Sky Valley Visitor Information Center www.skyvalleyvic.net
Ranger Station at 9:30 a.m. Check www. Snohomish County Tourism www.snohomish.org
trailvolunteers.org or call 206-517-3019 Leavenworth Chamber of Commerce www.leavenworth.org
Cascade Loop Association www.cascadeloop.com
for schedule information.

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 31


beach
32 along highway 112
NATIONAL SCENIC BYWAYS

Strait of Juan de Fuca


Highway 112
When you travel along the remote Strait of Juan de Fuca Highway 112
you will encounter the magnificent shoreline of the narrow body
of water that connects Puget Sound to the Pacific Ocean.

T his is a get-away-from-it-all byway on which


salt spray fills the air, trees grow so fast you
can almost see it happening, and salmon fishermen
for overnight hikes in the park) is the Wilderness
Information Center in Port Angeles. The WIC is
located within the Olympic National Park visitor
congregate at boat launches before dawn. center at 3002 Mount Angeles Road. Call 360-565-
Follow a trail of shells along the tide line, hike, 3100 for information or visit www.nps.gov/olym.
kayak and fish for flounder off the beach. Look up
to see bald eagles, changing skies and old-growth Veteran Memorial Highway Designations
Sitka spruce. Look out on the water to see container In a fitting tribute to our nation’s veterans, two
ships bound for Asia, surfers plying waves and gray stretches of the Strait of Juan de Fuca Highway have
whales migrating. Everywhere you look, you’ll see been designated as “Veteran Memorial Highways.”
how the salt water shapes this place. Directly after exiting US-101 west of Port Angeles,
SR-112 has been designated the Vietnam Veterans’
Heading west from Port Angeles Memorial Highway. It meets the Korean Veterans’
Driving east to west takes the traveler through Port Blue Star Memorial Highway when it intersects
Angeles, part of the Pacific Coast Scenic Byway. This with SR-113 just southeast of Clallam Bay. Markers
inner harbor city is the entrance point from Victoria, and flags pay tribute to those men and women who
B.C. for those traveling by ferry. The William R. served proudly when our nation needed them.
Fairchild International Airport is located in Port
Angeles, where rental cars are also available. Olympic Discovery Trail Adventure Route
The Olympic Discovery Trail runs from east of
The Wilderness Information Center Sequim to Lake Crescent, west of Port Angeles. It
A good first stop for tips about Olympic National will eventually run from Port Townsend to La Push
Park, its trails and backcountry permits (required and be one of the longest trails without motor-
photo: randall hodges

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 33


vehicle access in the United States. Folks in a cedar forest or on the beach. The
who want to work up a sweat should bull kelp beds to the west are a halibut
check out the Adventure Route segment fishing hot spot, and this 17-acre park
of this trail. is also the first of four Whale Trail
Mountain bikers, horseback riders observation spots along this byway, see
and hikers will get views across the Strait www.thewhaletrail.org. This trail consists
of Juan de Fuca, the Olympics and the of a series of marked locations around
Elwha River Valley, if they’re willing to northwest waters where people may
pay the price in switchbacks. This 25- glimpse marine mammals. Harbor seals,
mile stretch of unpaved single-track and sea lions, otters, and gray whales may be
old logging roads zigzags from the west seen from the shores of this byway.
side of the Elwha River to the east side
of Lake Crescent, where it connects with Salt Creek County Park
the Spruce Railroad Trail. Salt Creek Recreation Area County
From Port Angeles, head west on Park is a campground that’s counted
US-101 for about 5 miles, then take among the best in the state by some
a right onto SR-112. The entrance camping guides. This 196-acre park is a
and parking for the Adventure Route wonderland of forests, world-renowned
segment of the Olympic Discovery Trail rocky tide pools, beaches and panoramic
(www.olympicdiscoverytrail.com) are on views of the Strait of Juan de Fuca and
freshwater bay the left soon after you cross the bridge Vancouver Island. Recreation includes
over the Elwha River.  scuba diving, surfing and kayaking.
Some intrepid souls even snorkel here—
Elwha Dam removal in thick neoprene wet suits, of course.
While you’re here, say goodbye to Explore the remnants of Fort
the Elwha Dam. The biggest dam Hayden, built during World War II. The
removal in U.S. history will provide concrete bunkers that once defended
visitors with the chance to watch this the coast with cannons are now relics,
effort to restore what was once one of commandeered by visitors who scramble
the most productive salmon runs in the to and fro throughout the fort’s mazes.
Northwest. Built without fish ladders, The park is a popular place to observe
the Elwha Dam blocks the migration of marine life (look for the Whale Trail
spawning salmon up the Elwha River, marker), and it is also an important
yet each fall they return and circle at the birding site on Audubon Washington’s
base of the dam in search of a way home. Great Washington State Birding Trail—
The removal of the Elwha Dam and Olympic Loop, http://wa.audubon.org.
of the Glines Canyon Dam upriver is Thrushes, black-headed grosbeaks,
an opportunity for visitors to witness warblers and oystercatchers are among
conservation in dramatic fashion over the birds found here. In the last week of
the next several years. Visit www.nps.gov September, hundreds of migrating turkey
and type “Elwha River” into the search vultures soar overhead.
field for more information.
Historic Joyce Depot Museum
Freshwater Bay County Park With its worn floorboards, tiny post
Located west of milepost 57 on the office and vast selection of penny candy
right, this park includes saltwater beach (yes, really a penny), tiny Joyce hasn’t
access, a boat launch and picnic areas changed much in the last 100 years.

34 lyre river
strait of juan de fuca
HIGHWAY 112

and tie up. If your exploration accessed from SR-112 just west of Sekiu
doesn’t involve a salmon rod, by taking the Hoko-Ozette road. The
Clallam Bay Spit Community 9-mile Sand Point/Cape Alava hiking
Beach County Park is an idyllic trail leads to the Ozette Indian Village
beachcombing, bird-watching Archeological Site, ancient Native
joyce genera
l stor e and picnicking spot. American petroglyphs and the Flattery
For birders, murrelets and murres Rocks National Wildlife Refuge.
To experience this area’s history and lay are prized sightings, while shorebirds, Thousands of the artifacts from the
in supplies for the road ahead, make a ducks and gulls are plentiful. In the fall Ozette dig are now on display at the
stop (milepost 51) at the Joyce General and spring, thousands of Canada geese, Makah Cultural and Research Museum in
Store and Depot Museum. trumpeter swans and sandhill cranes Neah Bay. Traveling west from the Ozette
The museum displays include railroad migrate through this area. If you’re more area, stop at Shipwreck Point Natural
memorabilia and historical photos and of a trail person, hike the Sekiu Trail, also Resources Conservation Area (milepost 6)
artifacts from the small communities in known as the “1-mile beach trail.” The to visit the last Whale Trail marker.
the region. The depot was built of Alaska third Whale Trail marker is at the pullout
yellow cedar around 1915 and is the last overlooking Sekiu at milepost 15. Visit Neah Bay/Cape Flattery
remaining log depot from the Milwaukee www.sekiu.com for more information. The Strait of Juan de Fuca Highway
line. Joyce also has a reputation for wild ends at milepost 0, its western terminus.
blackberry pie, so be sure to try a slice at Lake Ozette and the Sand Point/ The road continuing to Neah Bay, the
a nearby diner. Cape Alava Loop Trail Makah Indian reservation and the most
Lake Ozette, part of Olympic northwestern edge of the lower 48 states
Pillar Point County Park and Pysht National Park, is the third-largest natural is the Cape Flattery Tribal Scenic Byway
Still driving near the shoreline at milepost lake in Washington State and can be found in another section of this guide.
30, stop at Pillar Point County Park for
outstanding birding, with very good chances
of seeing herons, black-bellied plovers,
dunlins, sanderlings, and whimbrels. From
Planning Tips Driving Distance 61 MILES

here the road heads inland, through a stand Getting There: From Seattle, Drive time 1.5 hours (each way)
follow US-101 west to Port Angeles.
photos: left top, john gussman; left bottom, randall hodges; top right, marcus yearout

of massive old-growth Sitka spruce in the Allow three hours for this 85-mile leg, which plan to spend 1–2 days
Pysht River drainage. includes a half-hour ferry crossing from either
Trees logged here were once shipped the Seattle-to-Bainbridge or the Edmonds-to- best seasons year round
Kingston ferry terminal. The 61-mile Strait of
out along the Spruce Railroad, which Juan de Fuca Highway 112 trip officially begins a top adventures
is now a recreational trail along nearby few miles west of Port Angeles on SR-112, along
the north shore of the Olympic Peninsula, and runs west toward Neah Bay. (The scenic byway may also be accessed
Lake Crescent. Sitka spruce thrives in midway from US-101 by taking the SR-113 exit 11 miles north of Forks.) Extend your journey and continue exploring
wet coastal environments, and these trees the northwest tip of the Olympic Peninsula via the 12-mile Cape Flattery Tribal Scenic Byway.
are centuries-old examples of how life on
Gas, Food and Lodging: Motels, cabins and other accommodations can be found in Joyce,
land and water is intertwined along this Clallam Bay, Sekiu, and Neah Bay. Private campgrounds are located along the scenic byway in addition
remarkable byway. to campgrounds found in a few parks. Most parks have public restrooms. Locally owned restaurants and cafes are
found in each town. Gas and supplies are available at mini-marts in the small communities that dot the route.
Sekiu and Clallam Bay Connected or Nearby Scenic Byways:
Sekiu (pronounced SEA-que) and Pacific Coast, Cape Flattery Tribal
Clallam Bay are great spots along this
Local Resources: Strait of Juan de Fuca Highway 112 www.highway112.org
route for fishing and bird watching. Olympic Peninsula Tourism www.olympicpeninsula.org
Charter services are available to take Sekiu-Clallam Bay Chamber www.sekiu.com, Whale Trail www.thewhaletrail.org
you out for deepwater fishing, and if Makah Nation www.makah.com, Neah Bay Chamber www.neahbaychamber.com
Olympic Peninsula Waterfall Trail www.olympicpeninsulawaterfalltrail.com
you brought your own boat, Sekiu has
a marina with several places to launch

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 35


view
36 of mt. rainier
NATIONAL SCENIC BYWAYS

White Pass
If it’s majesty you crave, this is your route.

S itting sentry on your drive are three active


volcanoes, Mount St. Helens, Mount Rainier,
and the 12,000-foot-plus Mount Adams.
find here. There are charming communities to
enjoy, as well as side trips revealing both the majesty
of Mount Rainier and the devastation from the
Bring along a swimsuit in the summertime; there 1980 eruption of Mount St. Helens.
are plenty of lakes to take a dip in. A tent will serve Low-elevation lakes, river valleys, foothills,
you well as camping is plentiful along the route. subalpine ridges, forests, lush meadows, and open
Don’t forget your camera; the meadows, lakes steppes are all accessible through this gateway. Bald
and hills of this landscape host animals from elk eagles, elk, mountain goats, black bears, marmots,
to bighorn sheep to black bear. Eagles, ospreys and and salmon occupy an array of wild habitats and
red-tailed hawks are your constant companions as public lands. July and August are generally sunny and
you head east. mild, with heavy snowfall November through April.
Be sure to pick up a box of peaches or cherries in
Naches. There’s no souvenir like an edible one. Lewis and Clark State Park
Located between Mary’s Corner and Toledo, an
Experience Washington’s geographic diversity excellent first stop on the road is Lewis and Clark
Diversity sums up the experience best. The State Park, 2.5 miles east of I-5 Exit 68 and south
nationally designated White Pass Scenic Byway off Jackson Highway. The old north spur of the
boasts magnificent driving tours from the lush Oregon Trail passed directly through the present
evergreen forests of western Washington, up and park site. When pioneers used this road, ramps
over the Cascades, and into the sage-covered rolling had to be built over some of the downed logs (six
hills that rise up from the Tieton River drainage on to nine feet in diameter), since they had no saws
the state’s east side. capable of cutting the giants.
Recreational possibilities—camping, fishing, With one of the last large tracts of lowland old-
hunting, hiking, skiing and boating—are easy to growth forest, miles of hiking and horse trails and
photo: john marsall

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 37


EARLY MORNING CATCH alpine view towards Mount St. helens

a campground, the park is open April 1 made reservoir, also offers camping, end of May through October; however,
to September 30 and features an 1845 boating and fishing. Hang gliders access to Paradise is available year round.
pioneer house, streams, wetlands, and launching from Dog Mountain can You can also access SR-706 and the
wet prairie. This is a 1930s-era Civilian often be spotted overhead. You may Nisqually entrance to Mount Rainier
Conservation Corps park, and many of spot bobcats, bears, deer, eagles, hawks, National Park near Ashford from
the buildings constructed by the corps herons, and owls, so stay on the lookout. downtown Packwood by taking Skate
remain in use today. This park is also a Creek Road (FS-52), a little-known route
good, easy birding spot—look for quail, Mossyrock and the Cowlitz River that winds gracefully along the creek,
pileated woodpeckers and great horned In Mossyrock, garden enthusiasts featuring dozens of small waterfalls and
owls. This stretch of byway eastward to will want to check out acres of nearby lush forests, as well as providing some
Packwood Lake is part of Audubon’s tulip fields and pick up some bulbs. great fishing and roadside picnicking.
Great Washington State Birding Trail— Also, be sure to grab some locally grown For a quick break in Packwood, swing
Southwest Loop. blueberries—especially if you visit into the local coffee roaster’s and grab
Hungry? One of the best burgers during the annual Blueberry Festival a snack, a cup of “joe” for the road and
in the state can be found about held the first weekend in August. a pound of beans as a gift or robust
4 miles east of Mary’s Corner. The Cowlitz River, which runs reminder of the journey.
Ask around; any local will point through this area, provides several Towering waterfalls (Narada is a
you in the right direction. excellent opportunities to fish for salmon favorite stop) and interpretive nature
and steelhead. Ask at a local mini-mart trails (check out the Trail of Shadows at
Alpine lakes offer plenty of or outfitter for the best fishing holes or Longmire) never cease to bring a sense
great recreation where you can view spawning salmon in of wonder to the adventure and are
For year-round family fun, Ike Kinswa the fall. easily accessible via short hikes from the
State Park, 4 miles north of Mossyrock, main highway. During the winter this
hugs 46,000 feet of shoreline on the Head up to Mount Rainier road terminates at the historic Paradise
freshwater Mayfield Lake. Private, Driving on SR-7 north from Morton Inn, at the very base of the grand lady,
forested campsites have plenty of appeal, to Elbe (where you can take a steam- Mount Rainier. In the summer months,
and the heated cabins near the lakeshore train ride aboard the Mount Rainier the Paradise Valley Road connects to the
are a steal at $60 bucks a night. Hiking, Scenic Railroad) leads to the 115-mile- Stevens Canyon Road.
swimming, fishing (trout, bass, tiger long West Side Loop around the On the way down, the side trip to
muskie), water-skiing and boating Nisqually area and Big Bottom Valley, the Grove of the Patriarchs trail on
(from two ramps) are among the many featuring some of the Mount Rainier Stevens Canyon Road (closed in winter)
recreational options. area’s greatest spectacles. This loop route between Paradise and SR-123 is highly
Nearby Riffe Lake, a massive man- to Paradise is typically open from the recommended. Here an easy 1.5-mile

38
white pass

Come winter, opt for a trek by snowshoe


or cross-country skis.
The route between Rimrock and
Naches winds past valleys and canyons
with several scenic viewpoints. There’s
plenty of riverfront camping here as well.
rt
k i r eso The final leg of White Pass Scenic Byway,
pa ss s
wh it e
The recently just before Naches, will be enriched by a
expanded White Pass Ski stop at Oak Creek Wildlife Area, where
Resort goes into high gear during the unusually close-up views of hundreds of
winter with alpine and cross-country elk (during winter) and bighorn sheep
skiing. A day lodge rents skis and (all year) at feeding stations are a thrill.
packwood
snowboards and has food, lockers and There’s non-mammal viewing, too;
a bar. Visit www.whitepassbyway.com woodpeckers, raptors, and songbirds
round-trip boardwalk trail leads for a complete list of lodging options are plentiful.
you through a stand of massive along the byway.
1,000-year-old Douglas firs, western Try Chinook Pass on the way back
red cedars and western hemlock up Down the eastern slopes A great full-day loop drive will take
to 50 feet in circumference. A short distance beyond the summit you up and over two of our state’s most
of White Pass, you’ll see a trailhead with rugged and beautiful byways, White Pass
Mount St. Helens detour access to the Pacific Crest Trail, which along US-12 and Chinook Pass on SR-
Between Morton and Packwood, runs 2,650 miles along the Cascade 410 for the return trip. Chinook Pass is
near Randle, you can head south on Mountain Range from Canada to closed from approximately Thanksgiving
SR-131 to NF-25 for excellent Mexico. A few miles further, you’ll find through Memorial Day, so check for
views of log-strewn Spirit Lake, Mount beautiful Rimrock and Clear lakes. In travel updates before you head out. You
St. Helens and Mount Adams from the summer, enjoy hiking, camping, can read more about the Chinook Pass
Windy Ridge. An extraordinary view of fishing, boating, and wildlife watching. Scenic Byway elsewhere in this guide.
the 1980 eruption’s devastation of 200
square miles of green forest—which
turned the area into a gray wasteland—
simply must be seen to be believed. U.S.
Planning Tips Driving Distance 119 MILES

Forest Service interpretive presentations Getting There: From Seattle go Drive time 2.5 hours
photos: left to right, ben tobin; john marshall; levy/sheckler; ben tobin

(early July through Labor Day, 10 a.m. south on I-5 for approximately 100
miles and take Exit 68 east onto US-12. The plan to spend 1/2 – 2 days
to 4 p.m.) are a great way to get a sense White Pass Scenic Byway corridor crosses the
of the St. Helens story. Add four hours Cascades, from just south of Chehalis to the best seasons* WINTER, SUMMER, fall

for this exceptional round-trip detour. intersection of US-12 and SR-410 on the “dry
top adventures
side” of Washington State near Naches.
*The route is open year round. Check www.dot.wa.gov for winter
Year-round activities Gas, Food and Lodging: Vacation and early spring road conditions.
Sure, there’s plenty to keep you rentals, cozy cabins, motels and bed-
and-breakfast accommodations, in varying price ranges, are plentiful along the byway, as are numerous
busy in spring and summer, but winter
campgrounds. Five rest areas are spread over the 119-mile journey, as are park-your-car viewpoints. Gas is
recreational opportunities are abundant plentiful along the route, but whenever traveling into high mountain country, it’s always a good idea to top off
in these mountains as well. These include the tank whenever you get a chance. Make sure to ask around to find out where the locals gather; that’s where
snow camping, snowboarding, Nordic the best food and conversation will be found.

skiing and general snow play at Paradise, connected or Nearby Local Resources:
an area that includes a ranger station, Scenic Byways: White Pass Scenic Byway www.whitepassbyway.com
a visitor center and the Paradise Inn Chinook Pass, Yakima River Canyon Visit Rainier www.visitrainier.com

(which closes in early October).

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 39


state SCENIC BYWAYS

cape flattery

Cape Flattery Tribal Scenic Byway


...breathe deeply, and take the time to get to know
this stunning piece of land shaped by the rhythms of the Pacific.

A good wool sweater is almost always


in order here. So are binoculars, a
change of shoes and pants that can be
it’s the purest air they’ve found
anywhere. So breathe deeply, and take
the time to get to know this stunning
The Makah Nation has sustained its
people and culture with the bounty of
the land and sea for millennia. Today,
rolled up to escape the crashing waves as piece of land shaped by the rhythms of the local economy relies heavily on
you walk along the beach. the Pacific. commercial and recreational fishing. Neah
You’ll see surfboards on top of cars On this route, the only tribal- Bay is a place where 40-pound Chinook
and trucks pulling skiffs on trailers. The designated byway in Washington State, can still be pulled from the water, and
water here is packed with life; otter, seal visitors have an opportunity to stop and when the salmon are in, there’s a buzz
and whale sightings are commonplace. learn more about the Makah Nation. in the air as the place gets busy.
The air here is so clean that scientists The tribe’s history and culture are at one Neah Bay is also known for its great
from the University of Washington with the land and the water. halibut season in spring, and there are
collect air samples from Cape Flattery— plenty of other bottom fish like ling
Traditional homeland of cod, kelp greenling and sea bass in local
r ail
cap e f
l at t er y t the Makah Nation waters. Chartered services are available.
The Makah Indian Reservation If you enjoy smoked salmon, this is
encompasses the northwest tip of the where you’ll find shops selling some of
continental United States. Neah Bay is the finest in the world.
a notch in the point where the Pacific
Ocean and the Strait of Juan de Fuca Sandy stops near Cape Flattery
meet. Sea lions bask in the sun near tied- Before driving to Cape Flattery, stop
off commercial fishing boats. Gulls make and explore some of the long sandy
a ruckus overhead, while the village stretches of beach in the area, such as
of Neah Bay sits quietly, as it has for Hobuck Beach just west of the Cape
generations, observing the comings and Flattery Tribal Center in Neah Bay.
goings at the entrance to Washington’s A prime spot for birding from the fall
inland waters. through spring, Hobuck boasts thousands

40
cape flattery tribal

of gulls (California, glaucous-winged, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., the center includes a weekend of August, when the annual
mew, Thayer’s) and is part of Audubon replica long house, cedar dugout canoes, Makah Days Celebration takes place.
Washington’s Great Washington State whaling and fishing gear, and the tools (Check www.makah.com for specific
Birding Trail—Olympic Loop. Here you of everyday life in the preindustrial age. dates.) Traditional dancing, singing,
can rent a cabin or find camping and RV You’ll come away with a deep respect canoe races and Slahal games are all part
sites that face the ocean. Hobuck also for the way of life and traditions that the of the free event. Attend this celebration
is popular with kayakers and is a good tribe still honors today. Art and baskets and learn why neighboring tribes
beginner surfing beach. by Native weavers are available dubbed these people “Makah,” which
There’s another beach here that to purchase in the center’s store. means “generous with food.” You’ll find
many magazines and television travel A good time to travel the Cape everything from fry bread to traditional
channels have declared one of the most Flattery Tribal Scenic Byway for the cedar-staked salmon cooked around open
spectacular in the world. Shi Shi Beach cultural experience is during the third fires. Nobody leaves Makah Days hungry.
(pronounced shy-shy), approximately
8 miles southwest of Neah Bay, is well
worth a visit for its coastal drama, its
timelessness and the feeling of sanctuary
it imparts to visitors. Access begins with
a 3.3-mile hike leading to an unspoiled
2-mile crescent of beach with arches, sea
stacks and a limitless horizon.

The hike to Cape Flattery


The Cape Flattery Trail is an easy three-
quarter-mile hike along a cedar-planked
path that leads you to the most western
point in the lower United States. At trail’s
end are observation perches with exquisite
views of the Olympic Coast National
Planning Tips Driving Distance 12 MILES

Marine Sanctuary, Tatoosh Island and the Getting There: Neah Bay is Drive time 30 minutes
historic Cape Flattery Lighthouse, first lit approximately 150 miles from Seattle on
plan to spend 1–2 days
in 1857. Migrating birds and whales can the northwest tip of the Olympic Peninsula. Take
a Washington State Ferry from downtown Seattle
often be seen here, as well as sunbathing best seasons* year round
(Seattle-Bainbridge Island Ferry) or Edmonds
otters, seals and sea lions. (Edmonds-Kingston Ferry) to SR-104, cross the Hood top adventures
Canal Bridge, then go on to US-101, past
Blyn, Sequim and Port Angeles.
The Makah Cultural
Take SR-112 along the Strait of Juan de Fuca Scenic Byway, not just to the end of the road but to the end of the
and Research Center
photos: top, Valerie Henschel; bottom, marcus yearout

continent. Driving time one way from Seattle is approximately five hours. The byway begins where SR-112 meets
For an engrossing look at the history the eastern boundary of the Makah Reservation (at that point, SR-112 also becomes known as Bayview Avenue)
of the indigenous people who call this and ends at the rocky outcrops of Cape Flattery’s coastline.

place home, don’t miss the nation’s first Gas, Food and Lodging: Beach resorts, motels, RV parks and campgrounds are the primary lodging
tribal museum, the Makah Cultural and on this route. There are small local restaurants along the way. Be sure to purchase a $10 recreation
Research Center. The 10,000-square-foot permit covering all outdoor activities on the reservation at the Tribal Center, the Makah Marina, Washburn’s
General Store or Makah Mini-Mart, where gas is also available.
museum displays thousands of artifacts
discovered in the archaeological dig of Connected or Nearby Scenic Byways:
the 3,000-year-old Ozette Indian fishing Strait of Juan de Fuca, Pacific Coast
village near Cape Alava. Local Resource:
Open daily (except Thanksgiving, Makah Nation www.makah.com
Christmas and New Year’s Day) from

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 41


state SCENIC BYWAYS

Cascade Loop The Cascade Loop Byway is a 440-mile love letter to


Washington praising her natural beauty and charisma.

F rom the waterfront city of Everett, head


east over Stevens Pass, where alpine
villages welcome and snowy spires beckon.
Head east on US-2, and plan to spend a
little time in historic downtown Snohomish.
This community features an array of turn-
country trails double as mountain-biking
and hiking trails in the summer. Here’s a
true Northwest touch; when you’re done
Drop from pine forests into fertile of-the-century architectural styles. Many with lunch here, you can dump leftovers
orchards and take in the pink haze of of these buildings now house antique into a compost bin. This ski area is
apple blossoms in the spring. Pick up shops, bakeries and restaurants. committed to sustainability as well as
luscious seasonal fruit from a roadside In Monroe, tractor and tool buffs deep powder turns.
stand then take a dip in Lake Chelan might want to check out the Western Continuing over the summit and down
as the sun bakes high desert hills. Play Heritage Center, a museum that houses the eastern slopes, consider taking the
cowboy in Winthrop. useful items from the past. Here kids cutoff on SR-207 at Coles Corner to Lake
Climb west over more mountains, can see what a potato digger looks like Wenatchee State Park—500 gorgeous
and then descend into Skagit Valley and grind wheat into flour. Continue acres on the glacier-fed Lake Wenatchee
with its acres of blooming tulips. At to climb past tiny communities with and Wenatchee River. There’s an inviting
last, cross over dramatic Deception Pass names like Sultan, Startup and Goldbar. little golf course here with tree-lined
to Whidbey Island, where gentle hills Waterfall lovers may be distracted by fairways and mountain ponds ready to
and seaside towns offer a soft place to this stretch; Wallace, Sunset, Bridal Veil drown a ball or two. During winter, the
land. If yours is a passing attraction to and Deception falls are all beautiful and golfing gives way to Nordic skiing. (See
Washington State, watch out; this byway easily accessible. also: Stevens Pass Greenway)
may turn it into true love forever.
Crossing Stevens Pass Leavenworth
Start in Everett, head for the hills Stevens Pass (elevation 4,056 feet) A quaint Bavarian-themed village
Start the Cascade Loop Scenic Byway straddles the border of King and Chelan located on US-2 in a Swiss Alps-like
in the bustling port city of Everett, home counties. The Stevens Pass Ski Area is setting, Leavenworth has something
of the largest public marina on the West one of the state’s premier alpine-skiing fun going on in every season. Enjoy
Coast and the place where Boeing jets destinations. An innovative terrain park an outdoor theater, concerts and
are born (tour the plant; it’s the largest draws snowboarders from all over the wine tasting in summer, a legendary
building in the world). nation, and miles of groomed cross- Oktoberfest in the fall and sleigh rides,

sourdough
42 mountain, north cascades national park
cascade loop

tubing and cross-country skiing in Forest lands, Lake Chelan has everything
winter. Shops and restaurants galore a camper, angler, explorer or sunbather
round out this necessary stop. could want.
If you write it off as just another Play golf, tan, water ski, swim (yes,
“theme” town, you’ll be making a it’s cold), or take a cruise to Stehekin at
huge mistake. Nestled between the the lake’s northern tip. Accessible only
Snoqualmie and Wenatchee national by boat or seaplane, this tiny village with
forests with access to the Alpine Lakes a permanent population of 75 boasts a
Wilderness, this is rock-climbing, bakery, overnight accommodations and
white-water rafting, kayaking and some of the best “get away from it all”
hiking paradise. So drink the beer, eat remote beauty in the state.
the bratwurst and buy the nutcracker,
but don’t forget to look to the rugged Loup Loup and Twisp
mountains surrounding you for a true From Chelan, drive north to Pateros
Washington “Alps” experience. on SR-153 then west toward Twisp and
Winthrop, or continue north along a
Wenatchee stretch of the Okanogan Trails Scenic
From Leavenworth, continue on Byway to the town of Okanogan and
US-2 to Wenatchee. Located on the then head west on SR-20 over Loup
Columbia River, Wenatchee is best known Loup Pass. In winter, a small ski area and

photos: bottom, Michael Silverman; right, monte dodge


for its apples, but the nearby river and a wildlife feeding station provide some
surrounding mountains provide endless good distractions along this scenic route.
opportunities for hiking, biking, skiing Either road will lead to Twisp, a small
and wildlife watching. community known for the nation’s first
wildfire smokejumper base, charming
Following the Columbia River downtown and local theatre troupe.
to Lake Chelan
Follow US-97 north to one of the Winthrop and the stunning
state’s recreational magnets, Lake Methow Valley
Chelan. Surrounded by thousands of In Washington’s “Old West” town of
acres of North Cascades National Park Winthrop, you’ll find more than wooden
and Okanogan/Wenatchee National sidewalks and swinging saloon doors.

wenatchee area

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 43


methow river diablo lake skagit valley

Look for restaurants serving locally see the byway on which you just arrived, at Howard Miller Steelhead Park,
grown fare, walk (or ski) the 124 miles unfurling down the mountain. making this area home to the largest
of trails running through town that links Access to the Pacific Crest Trail is population of bald eagles in the lower
the entire Methow Valley or head a few nearby as well as hundreds of its lesser- 48 states. There is an eagle interpretive
miles north to Pearrygin Lake State Park known cousins, leading to thousands of center open December and January,
to camp, fish or water ski. miles of wilderness exploration in both and rafting guides can take you on float
both Okanogan-Wenatchee National trips to view the eagles and other winter
Into the North Cascades Forest and North Cascades National Park. migratory fowl.
Old farmsteads and rolling fields The Diablo and Ross dams and their For more information on the communities
will give way to pine forests as you backwaters are worthwhile stops along and sights along the route, see the North
drive northwest through the this route, especially when minerals in Cascades Scenic Byway section.
Methow Valley on SR-20, then head up the runoff turn these waters vivid green.
into the rugged Tickets for interpretive boat tours on Through the Skagit and toward
North Cascades. Diablo Lake are available in Newhalem, Fidalgo and Whidbey islands
Pull over at the just a couple miles west of Diablo Dam, Leaving the North Cascades, you’ll
Washington Pass www.skagittours.com. While there, stop descend gently through the foothills
overlook; a short at the North Cascades National Park into small communities, lush farmland
paved path leads visitor center for information on other and the tulip fields of the Skagit Valley.
to spectacular sights in the area. The visitor center Look for colorful splashes of yellow
views of Liberty setting is ruggedly beautiful and some (daffodils) or red (tulips) on the horizon
Bell Mountain believe a destination unto itself (open if you come through in March or
and the Early May to October). April—the only place that grows
Winters In the winter, bald eagles congregate more flower bulbs than the Skagit
Spires. to feed on fish along the Skagit River Valley is Holland.
v iew r id g e You’ll also between Marblemount and Rockport A short 5-mile (one-way) detour from
d la ke
t en an
pa say

44
cascade loop

and beaches all around make Whidbey Depart Whidbey Island via the
a destination unto itself. As the Clinton-Mukilteo ferry to return to the
culmination of the Cascade Loop Scenic Puget Sound area, or continue west via
Byway, it gilds the lily—or, in this case, the Coupeville-Port Townsend ferry.
the tulip. (See also: Whidbey Island See www.wsdot.wa.gov/ferries for rate
Scenic Isle Way.) and schedule information.

deception pass bridge


photos: left to right, patrick bennett; north cascades national park; PATRICK BENNETT; Michael Stadler; bottom, andy porter

SR-20 into La Conner will


reveal an enchanting waterfront
community—part fishing village, part Driving Distance 440 MILES
artist colony—on the banks of the
Drive time 10–12 hours
Swinomish Channel. The little stores
are intermixed with a world-class quilt plan to spend 2–4 days
museum and restaurants that feature best seasons* spring, summer, fall
local ingredients.
Planning Tips top adventures

Fidalgo and Whidbey islands Getting There: The 440-mile route *A 36-mile portion of the route along the North Cascades Highway
(SR-20) from milepost 134 to 171 closes during the winter
The byway winds north to Anacortes contains three of the state’s designated
(mid-November to early May). Check www.dot.wa.gov for road
scenic byways described in this guide. It begins
or heads south across Deception Pass to conditions and seasonal closures.
30 miles north of Seattle in Everett, then heads
Oak Harbor on Whidbey Island. across the Stevens Pass Greenway to Wenatchee, continuing north past Lake Chelan toward the southern end of the
A few miles from I-5, Anacortes on Okanogan Scenic Byway. Continue westward through Winthrop and the stunning Methow Valley, taking the North
Fidalgo Island is headquarters for whale Cascades Scenic Byway through Washington Pass before dropping back down to the west side past the turquoise-
green backwaters of the Ross and Diablo dams. The route continues on SR-20 through the Skagit Valley before
watching excursions. Take a cruise to see crossing Fidalgo Island to Anacortes then back to SR-20 and south over Deception Pass and heading south along
a resident pod of orcas or visiting gray the Whidbey Scenic Isle Way. A 20-minute trip across the sound on the Clinton-Mukilteo Ferry completes this loop.
whales. Downtown Anacortes has 70 Gas, Food and Lodging: Accommodations of every sort are spread over the byway’s 440 miles,
life-sized murals, restaurants, antiques as are restaurants, gas stations and restrooms. Savor Washington itineraries for the area are available
and a waterfront park. at www.agr.wa.gov/Marketing/SmallFarm/SavorWA.aspx

If you’re heading to Oak Harbor, this connected or Nearby Scenic Byways: Stevens Pass Greenway, North Cascades Scenic
route crosses the soaring Deception Highway, Whidbey Scenic Isle Way, Chuckanut Drive, Okanogan Trail, Coulee Corridor
Pass Bridge onto the second-longest
Local Resource:
island in the United States, Whidbey Cascade Loop Association www.cascadeloop.com
Island. Quaint towns, delicious mussels

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 45


state SCENIC BYWAYS

MT. si (left); adams bench winery (right)

Cascade Valleys
This convenient ramble follows SR-202 from
Woodinville along the fertile Snoqualmie River Valley.
o t to m
o the b
t r ail t
FALLS

N
SNO Q UALMIE
ative Americans established (and counting), the Woodinville
this route, and the culmination wine industry attracts over a half- amateur bike racers at the only
of today’s byway, North Bend, was a million visitors annually. banked racing velodrome in the state.
seasonal meeting place for local tribes Visitors will also find a variety Dog people will love the 40-acre
and the end of the swim for salmon of entertaining activities including off-leash play area, and this urban oasis
unable to continue upstream past outdoor concerts in an estate setting, is also home to plenty of wildlife—
Snoqualmie Falls. hot-air-balloon rides and exploring on muskrats, coyotes, river otters and
There is no roughing it on this road foot, horseback or wheels along the painted turtles can be seen most of the
trip. Taste local wine and handcrafted picturesque Sammamish River Trail. year. More than 150 bird species have
ale; dine in some of the Northwest’s Wined out? One of the nation’s largest been sighted at the park, including barn
most exclusive restaurants; attend open- handcrafted brewing facilities is also owls that occasionally take up residence
air concerts by world famous performers. located nearby. in the windmill.
Even adventures are leisurely; take a
picnic to Marymoor Park and watch the Redmond and Marymoor Park The road to Fall City
dizzying bicycle races at the state’s only Following SR-202 south for 6 miles, This entire byway runs along a fertile
velodrome or stand in the mist of the you will arrive in Redmond, a great corridor that’s a gardener’s delight—
270-foot Snoqualmie Falls, then stroll to blend of urban-rural experiences. Serene, there are multiple nurseries and a
the nearby resort for its legendary four- meandering bike paths, outdoor concerts, bamboo farm. And at the intersection
course breakfast. family events and fabulous shopping all of SR-202 and SR-203 is Fall City. This
make it a good stop on the byway. is organic farm central. For generations,
Woodinville You can’t miss Marymoor Park, families have come to this area’s u-pick
Located 17 miles northeast of Seattle Redmond’s recreational hub. Located on farms for strawberries, blueberries,
in the Sammamish Valley, Woodinville the shores of Lake Sammamish, it offers pumpkins or whatever is in season. This
combines small-town charm with some something for everyone. Bring your is where many of Puget Sound’s most
of the top-rated wineries in the state. own lawn chairs for outdoor movies in exclusive restaurants source their farm-
With over 50 wineries and tasting rooms the summer, or cheer professional and fresh ingredients.

46
CASCADE VALLEYs

There is a nice little family-friendly North Bend and Mount Si Si, the mountain in North Bend’s
golf course in the heart of town and The cities of Snoqualmie and North backyard. Said to be the most-climbed
another one across the river heading Bend will look familiar to anyone who mountain in the United States, Mount
toward Snoqualmie. Both are affordable recalls David Lynch’s somewhat macabre Si offers glorious views from its summit,
and are perfect, non-intimidating television series “Twin Peaks.” Here, you’ll extending all the way to Puget Sound.
courses for people trying to learn or find the restaurant referred to in Agent With a 3,700-foot elevation change, the
work on their game. Cooper’s famous line, “A good cherry pie 8-mile round-trip hike is particularly
and a “damn fine cup of coffee.” popular on summer days, but it’s also
Heading toward Snoqualmie Falls Outdoor enthusiasts have long flocked open during winter and spring.
From the heart of Fall City, drive to North Bend for its extensive trail The trail leads to the summit ridge
across the bridge over the Snoqualmie system including the 29-mile hiking at the base of the so-called “Haystack.”
River and follow SR-202 to the right and biking Snoqualmie Valley Trail. But From there, the short ascent to the
(southeast). In a few miles, you’ll the best-known trail here is the one that actual summit is a scramble that can be
encounter one of Washington’s most takes visitors to the summit of Mount dangerous in wet or snowy conditions.
popular attractions. Snoqualmie
Falls is a 270-foot-high waterfall with
vantage points above, below and
beside the waterworks.
Most people view the falls from the
easily accessible upper pavilion, but try
the trail to the bottom. It’s steep and
a mile long, but worth every step. You
will never forget the feeling of standing
under a curtain of spray from the falls,
especially during spring when runoff
thunders over the drop.

Snoqualmie’s railway museum


An excellent stop for families
passing through downtown Planning Tips Driving Distance 28 MILES
Snoqualmie is the Northwest
Getting There: This scenic drive begins Drive time 1 hour
Railway Museum, with its 1890s
in Woodinville. You can reach Woodinville by
depot and 70 machines including following SR-522 eastward from either I-5 Exit 171 or plan to spend half day
steam locomotives, freight cars and I-405 Exit 23.
best seasons* spring, summer, fall
coaches. In spring, summer and fall,
Gas, Food and Lodging:
the museum operates a heritage top adventures
Accommodations in Woodinville, Redmond
railroad with 5.5-mile train rides and North Bend are plentiful and range from high-end *The route is open year round. Check www.dot.wa.gov for road
photos: TOP, PATRICK BENNETT; left, aaron morris

aboard antique railroad coaches resorts to campgrounds and RV parks. You can enjoy conditions and seasonal closures.
gourmet dining in Woodinville or at Snoqualmie Falls,
through the Upper Snoqualmie Valley,
but the small local restaurants along the route are where you have the best chance to connect with the locals. In
www.trainmuseum.org. North Bend, don’t forget to order a slice of that cherry pie. You’ll find a gas station in every community along the way.
The Northwest Railway Museum
Connected or Nearby Scenic Byways:
also displays Indian and pioneer
Mountain to Sound Greenway, Swiftwater Corridor
artifacts, as does North Bend’s
Snoqualmie Valley Historical Local Resources: Woodinville Tourism www.ci.woodinville.wa.us/play/tourism.asp
Redmond Tourism www.experienceredmond.com
Museum. Both are dedicated to
Snoqualmie Valley Chamber of Commerce www.snovalley.org/vg_attractions.html
preserving the area’s native and Outside Seattle www.outsideseattle.org
pioneer stories.

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 47


state scenic byways

Chuckanut Drive

view from chuckanut drive

Chuckanut Drive
A premier byway sometimes referred to as Washington’s Big Sur (perhaps Little Sur would be
more fitting), the route hugs the sheer sandstone cliffs of the Chuckanut Mountains.

T he only place where the Cascade


Mountains meet the sea,
Chuckanut Drive overlooks Samish Bay
deli with gourmet fare and a couple of
friendly taverns. Recently, many of the
buildings that line the streets have been
parked precariously along the narrow
shoulder. A shellfish farm at the hairpin
turn is a great opportunity to pick up
and offers gorgeous views of the San purchased by a group of artists who live, some fresh oysters, mussels and clams.
Juan Islands and Chuckanut Bay. work and display their art in their own
Stroll through tulip fields in spring or storefront galleries. Outdoor recreation playground
find a cozy restaurant and feast on fresh The Padilla Bay Shore Trail, a 2.5- Chuckanut Mountain is among the best
shellfish. Search for treasures in shops or mile bicycle and pedestrian pathway, mountain-biking areas in the state and is
for beach glass along the water. Take a and Bay View State Park are nearby also a popular hang-gliding location.
hike up past the tree line or down along and provide wonderful access to the Wildlife abounds from seashore to
a white-sand beach. Chuckanut Drive is mudflats, shorebirds and sea life. Padilla mountaintop. Starfish and sea lions
one of those byways that will leave you and Samish bays support one of the are common on the beaches, and if
wanting to linger just a little longer. largest known wintering populations of you’re lucky, you may see the splash of
peregrine falcons in North America and a passing orca pod. The hillside forests
Bow-Edison are part of the Audubon Washington’s shelter foxes, coyotes, raccoons, deer, and
The roadside communities of Bow Great Washington State Birding Trail— elk. This unique mountain and seashore
and Edison are noteworthy destinations Cascade Loop.  environment is a premier birding area. In
for art lovers and foodies alike. Tiny fact, it’s rated as a five-star raptor viewing
Bow has three buildings; and they’re On to Chuckanut Drive spot by the Audubon Society.
all worth a visit. One is home to a Just before you enter Chuckanut Drive
renowned artisan cheese maker, one is proper, you’ll pass the childhood home Blanchard Mountain
a quirky junk store and the third is an of Edward R. Murrow, the legendary The “jewel of the Chuckanuts” is
unassuming remodeled house where radio and television broadcast pioneer. Blanchard Mountain. Hiking trails
you’ll find what is widely regarded as one Once on the winding road, you’ll pass a abound here, but the mountain is
of the Northwest’s finest restaurants. restaurant that is low in curb appeal but especially famous for the demanding
Nearby downtown Edison has two gets high marks from discerning diners, 2,000-foot climb to its Oyster Dome
great farm-to-market bakeries, a small as you’ll note from the line of cars summit, a sheer cliff reached by a trail

48
chuckanut drive

leads to the shoreline, with its views stop and browse. Walk the cobblestone
of Chuckanut Bay and Clark’s Point. streets of the historic district, with
About 1.5 miles south of Fairhaven, restored nineteenth-century brick
the North Chuckanut Mountain buildings now housing bookstores,
Trailhead, located on Chuckanut boutiques and restaurants, and go back
Drive, opens onto a meandering to a time when Fairhaven was predicted
5-mile path with extraordinary to become a major city.
anut s
hor e sightseeing for hikers and A vibrant seasonal farmers’ market
chuck
equestrians. The final 3 miles comprise and the Alaska Ferry terminal are
maintained by volunteers. the Chuckanut Ridge Trail, where among the other attractions of this
Pass bat caves on the way up, gulp in the area wildlife includes red fox, deer, popular destination. For a traveler
salty air and appreciate the only place in woodpecker and belted kingfisher. looking for a full-day side trip,
the state where you can hike a Cascade passenger-only cruises for the
mountain peak whose feet are in the The Historic Fairhaven District San Juan Islands depart from the
sea. Along this tough 6-mile round trip, Built in the 1890s, the Fairhaven Fairhaven Cruise Terminal.
watch for abrupt drop-offs and enjoy district provides a great opportunity to
the spectacular views of the Olympic
Mountains, the Skagit River flats and
the San Juans. Planning Tips
Getting There: The southern
Larrabee State Park
entrance of Chuckanut Drive is
Six miles south of Bellingham, about an hour north of downtown Seattle, just
Larrabee became Washington’s first state north of Burlington at I-5 Exit 231, or you can
park in 1915. With two freshwater lakes, access it from the north by taking Exit 250 into
Fairhaven. Chuckanut Drive is a narrow, two-
dense woodlands, sandstone formations, lane cliff-hanger road with almost no shoulder
14 miles of multiple-use trails, wetlands, and is shared by many bicyclists, so please
creeks and the beaches of Samish and drive slowly and use caution.
Chuckanut bays to explore, this park can
Gas, Food and Lodging: Hotels,
keep a family busy for days. motels, bed-and-breakfasts and gas
One of Larabee’s biggest attractions stations are available at either end of the drive.
is the Interurban Trail, a route once Camping is available at Larrabee State Park.
From Bow-Edison to Fairhaven, this is an area
traveled by an electric train. Now a that takes great pride in its locally grown food;
favorite path for joggers, walkers and you’ll find abundant boutique restaurants, farm
bikers, it runs a lovely 6 miles through stands and shellfish growers along this byway.
Bring an empty cooler.
mossy maples to Old Fairhaven Parkway.
A Savor Washington itinerary: Skagit
Valley is available at www.agr.wa.gov/
photos: LEFT TO RIGHT, brett bAUNTON; JOHN MARSHALL

Teddy Bear Cove Beach and North Marketing/SmallFarm/SavorWA.aspx


Driving Distance 21 MILES
Chuckanut Mountain Trailhead
Connected or Nearby
A little north of Larrabee, accessible on Drive time 40 minutes Scenic Byways:
foot via the Interurban Trail—trailhead Cascade Loop, Mount Baker,
plan to spend 3–4 hours
parking is available on Chuckanut North Cascades,
Whidbey Scenic Isle Way
Drive—Teddy Bear Cove (once a popular best seasons* year round
nude beach, but now family friendly) is Local Resources:
top adventures
a stunning white-sand beach built over Chuckanut Drive Association
* The route is open year round but can be closed periodically for www.chuckanutdrive.com
centuries with crushed clamshells. A road maintenance. Check www.dot.wa.gov for road conditions and Bellingham Whatcom County Tourism
switchback trail among madrona trees seasonal closures.
www.bellingham.org
past the ruins of an old brick factory

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 49


state SCENIC BYWAYS

Columbia
River Gorge
Scenic Byway

columbia river

Columbia River Gorge The Columbia River cut this dramatic gap between
the Cascade Mountains on its way to the Pacific Ocean eons ago.

L ewis and Clark explored this path


centuries ago. Today, modern
travelers are awestruck at the natural
North Bonneville and Beacon Rock
The city of North Bonneville is a good
headquarters for fishing, hiking and outdoor
linking Oregon and Washington and
provides splendid views of the canyon,
making it well worth the $1 toll. The
beauty of the Columbia River Gorge exploration. Greenleaf, Bass, Kidney and bridge is also the river crossing of the
Scenic Byway. Tule lakes are all within city limits, and Pacific Crest Trail.
Drive though a land where white the Pacific Crest Trail skirts near the edge
water leaps over cliffs to join the of the town at the Bridge of the Gods. Columbia Gorge Interpretive
Columbia River. Watch shadows play Three miles west of town, Beacon Rock Center Museum
in the creases of 4,000-foot-high basalt State Park has a switchback path with The Columbia Gorge Interpretive
walls. Hike to breathtaking vistas of handrails to the top of the impressive Center Museum, in the town of
Mount St. Helens, Mount Adams and 848-foot Beacon Rock. Atop this core of Stevenson, tells both the geological and
Mount Hood. Join the rush of the water; an ancient volcano, you’ll be rewarded the human history of this region.
kayak or windsurf between the river’s with spectacular views of the gorge and In the museum’s Creation Theatre, you
wide banks. The mighty Columbia will Bonneville Dam. Mentioned in the can experience the cataclysmic formation
leave its mark on you, just as it has on Lewis and Clark journals, this is also the of the gorge during a 12-minute movie
this land. location where the corps first noticed complete with teeth rattling surround
tidal influences and knew they were sound. This museum also houses the
Captain William Clark Park getting close to the ocean. world’s largest rosary collection. See www.
Traveling west to east, the byway The Bonneville Dam, built between columbiagorge.org for more information.
begins in Washougal, the “Gateway to 1933 and 1943, is also a must-see
the Gorge.” The Lewis and Clark Corps attraction, with tours and interpretive Downtown Stevenson
of Discovery established a camp on activities throughout the day. Stevenson boasts several locally owned
Cottonwood Beach in this area for six days eateries, plus a riverfront trail and park
in 1806, and today that site is Captain Bridge of the Gods that’s a popular launch for kite boarding.
William Clark Park. Enjoy multi-use trails, This was originally a land bridge A few minutes east of Stevenson, in
fishing docks and historic interpretive formed by a landslide and undercut by Carson, look for the last old-time hot-
features, and be sure to find the replicas the waters of the Columbia. Today, the spring resort in Washington. Visitors soak
of Lewis and Clark’s dugout canoes. cantilevered steel bridge crosses the river in claw-foot tubs filled with hot mineral

50
columbia river gorge

(pronounced BIN-jin) both have small swimming, wildlife viewing (primarily


restaurants with plenty of local flair. deer and elk) and birding opportunities
(eagles, hawks, ospreys and wrens).
Lyle and the Klickitat Trail
e g or ge
rfing th
win de su Continuing eastward, the byway Columbia Hills State Park
water from Wind River. Driving enters drier climes and rolling hills. A More than 100 Native American
north along nearby Wind River brings historic railroad hotel dating to circa pictographs are tucked in these rocks,
you to Windy Ridge, perhaps the most 1905 is located in the tiny town of Lyle including the famed “She Who
dynamic view of the Mount St. Helens and provides a great headquarters for Watches,” the logo of the Columbia
crater available anywhere. exploring the eastern gorge. Gorge Interpretive Center. While
From Lyle, access the Klickitat Trail, many of these pieces are on view near
White Salmon River 31 miles of spectacular scenery including the parking lot, some of the sacred
Flowing from Mount Adams all carved gorges, abundant wildflowers, art (including “She Who Watches”) is
the way into the Columbia River, the rolling oak and ponderosa pine forests only available to view on guided tours
White Salmon River is a favorite year- and great birding opportunities, including on Fridays and Saturdays; visitors must
round spot for kayakers and white- winter habitat for bald eagles. For more call 509-767-1159 to make a reservation.
water rafters. Several rafting companies information, see www.klickitat-trail.org.
in the area offer experienced guides and Maryhill Museum and the
white-water thrills. Doug’s Beach State Park Stonehenge replica
The White Salmon area also marks A bit east of Lyle, Doug’s Beach The byway ends at the Maryhill
the western end of the Columbia Gorge State Park, a 400-acre day-use park Museum of Art, a chateau perched
wine-growing region—wine lovers on the Columbia River, is one of the on a bank above the Columbia.
will encounter more than 20 regional premier windsurfing sites in the gorge. There’s a replica of Stonehenge near the
winemakers as they continue eastward. For non-windsurfers, there’s freshwater museum. See the Yakama Scenic Byway
The towns of White Salmon and Bingen fishing (bass, catfish, sturgeon, walleye), for more information.

Planning Tips
Getting There: From Seattle, take I-5 south for 165 miles (3 hours) to Vancouver, and then
follow the signs to SR-14 eastbound to Camas/Washougal. The 100-mile byway is a slice of SR-14,
taken eastward, following the Washington side of the Columbia River.
Driving Distance 80 MILES
Gas, Food and Lodging: There is a wide range of accommodations and restaurants along this
Drive time 2 hours byway. Campers should be prepared for occasional high winds. Gas is plentiful.

plan to spend 1–2 days Connected or Nearby Scenic Byways:
Lewis and Clark Trail, Yakama Scenic Byway
best seasons* year round
photos: patrick bennett

Local ResourceS:
top adventures
National
Scenic Byways www.byways.org/explore/byways/2235
*The route is open year round.Check www.dot.wa.gov for road conditions.
Mount Adams Chamber of Commerce www.mtadamschamber.com
Skamania County Chamber of Commerce www.skamania.org
Vancouver USA Tourism www.visitvancouverusa.com

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 51


state SCENIC BYWAYS

Cranberry Coast

Cranberry Coast
Fly a kite, dig a clam, hook a salmon or catch a wave.
It’s a route that epitomizes life by the ocean.
cranberry coast

T his byway is named in honor of


the tiny red berry, which once grew
wild in the region and was farmed by
A replica of the Hawaiian Chieftain
is docked here too. Get an up-close
view of these wonderful tall ships, and,
served as the Coast Guard lifeboat station.
In spring, whale-watching tours
depart from the Westport Marina for
Finnish immigrants over 100 years ago. if you time it right, you just might close encounters with gray whales as
You’ll discover a year-round calendar be able to stow away for a true “argh, they migrate north to their Alaskan
of celebration along the Cranberry matey” experience. Scheduled sailings feeding grounds.
Coast byway. are available. For more information, visit Westport has been a destination
Pick a favorite at the World Class www.historicalseaport.org. for salmon charter fishing for nearly
Crab Races and Feed in April at a century. Dungeness crabbing is also
Westport; travel a 30-mile garage sale in The road to Westport popular here. The best crabbing season
September; celebrate all things cranberry Following SR-105 toward Westport, is from December through April, and
at the Cranberry Harvest Festival in you will encounter a local winery and you can buy or rent crab pots and bait
October. Or just take a walk on the tasting room, which is a popular stop for in town.
beach. If you find something interesting travelers; the outdoor gardens are filled Surfers have discovered the great
on your walk, you can enter it into the with sculptures and art inspired by the waves here, and several shops supplying
Annual Driftwood Show & Glass Float winery’s colorful labels. gear, lessons and advice have popped up
Roundup in March. Bottle Beach is a great haven for as a result.
birders interested in viewing the tens of
Downtown Aberdeen thousands of shorebirds passing through Grayland
Founded in 1884 and with much of here in late April and late October when Grayland is considered the heart of the
the original architecture intact, Aberdeen they return. Audubon Washington Cranberry Coast. Many of the original
has survived the rise and fall of both has published a map called the Great cranberry bogs started more than a
the timber and the fishing industries to Washington State Birding Trail— century ago by Finnish farmers are still
become the area’s economic hub. Southwest Loop. Order one at in operation.
The Grays Harbor Historical Seaport http://wa.audubon.org. This is a popular place for annual
in Aberdeen is home to Washington’s festivals and unique events. The Historic
flagship, the Lady Washington, a Westport Grayland Community Hall, built in
reproduction of the vessel sailed by A fishing village on Grays Harbor, the 1930s, hosts the Cranberry Harvest
Captain Robert Gray (the first American Westport has seaside shopping, a lively Festival in October (including bog tours, a
to circumnavigate the world) on his first marina and the Westport Maritime cook-off and a parade), March’s Driftwood
Northwest voyage. Museum, set in a 1939 building that once Show (exhibits of driftwood or anything

52
cranberry coast

community and quiet bayside town, is you’ll see evidence of the harvest in the
the county seat and home to the Pacific form of massive piles of oyster shells.
County Historical Society and Museum. Pick up ultra-fresh Willapa Bay oysters
The Pacific County Courthouse, with its at the many seafood markets in the
magnificent art-glass dome and murals, surrounding communities.
was erected in 1910 and is on the The Willapa Bay National Wildlife
National Register of Historic Places. Refuge is popular with outdoor
enthusiasts looking to relax by bird
Willapa Bay watching, kayaking, hiking and more.
The second-largest estuary on the The bay surrounds Long Island, an
Pacific Coast, Willapa Bay is a shallow uninhabited part of the refuge accessible
body of water formed by the 28-mile by private boat that has only primitive
cranberry coast
Long Beach Peninsula, the sand spit that camping sites. Here you’ll find an
juts out north from the Columbia River. ancient stand of western red cedar, black
else of interest that floats in from the This pristine estuary is known for bear, elk, bobcat, and other protected
ocean) and July’s Windriders Kite Festival. growing some of the finest oysters in the wildlife, as well as a spring migration of
The story of the juicy little indigenous world. As you wind through this area, over 100,000 shorebirds.
fruit is told at Grayland’s Furford
Cranberry Museum (named for a
harvesting machine built by Julius
Furford), which displays a unique
collection of antique equipment and Planning Tips
materials related to the cranberry industry. Getting There: From Seattle,
Nearby Grayland Beach State Park is go south on I-5 to US-101 near
a 412-acre park with campsites located Olympia, then west on SR-8/US-12 to
Aberdeen (110 miles / 2 hours). Follow
along spectacular ocean frontage close
SR-105 from Aberdeen around the
to a mile and a half long. Popular with coast from Westport to South Bend
kite flyers and beachcombers, the park on Willapa Bay.
is also good for clamming and crabbing,
Gas, Food and Lodging:
saltwater fishing and birding. Hotels, motels, historic inns,
bed-and-breakfasts, RV parks and
Tokeland, Raymond and South Bend campgrounds are available along this
byway. Be sure to stop by the local
As the road winds along the coastline,
visitor center to get a restaurant
you may want to consider the 4-mile recommendation; there are several
detour to Tokeland. The quiet fishing excellent seafood restaurants and
village and marina are picturesque. A historic diners throughout the region.

historic hotel here provides comfortable Connected or Nearby


lodging and is noted for its delectable Scenic Byways:
home-cooked meals. Driving Distance 48 MILES Pacific Coast, Hidden Coast

Continue south on SR-105 to Drive time 2 hours Local Resources:


Raymond, a rural community at the Cranberry Coast Tourism
plan to spend 1 day www.cranberrycoast.net
mouth of the Willapa River. Here
photos: PATRICK BENNETT

Cranberry Coast Chamber


you’ll find more than 200 life-size steel best seasons* year round
of Commerce
sculptures of people and wildlife along www.cranberrycoastcoc.com
top adventures
US-101 and throughout the century-old Long Beach Peninsula Visitors
downtown district. *The route is open year round.Check www.dot.wa.gov for road Bureau www.funbeach.com
conditions and seasonal closures.
South Bend, a pioneer logging

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 53


state SCENIC BYWAYS

Hidden Coast
Hidden Coast
Prepare to compose
your thoughts and
write your
next novel.

Rock formation along the Hidden Coast

T he shadows are deeper in this part


of the world, and the power and
beauty of the ocean invite introspection.
Grays Harbor National Wildlife Refuge
This refuge, located near Hoquiam,
protects muddy tide flats on the Grays
of the Pacific Flyway for migratory birds
and is a good place to spot migrating
gray whales as well.
Roll up the cuffs of your pants and Harbor Estuary, where thousands of Fishing (red snapper, salmon, tuna
walk along the beach or light a fire in shorebirds feed during their round-trip and more) is a popular activity here.
the fireplace and relax. This is a place migration periods in spring and summer. Swimming, diving, surfing and use of
of tales, long naps and sunsets that Walk a mile from the parking lot to the personal watercraft are permitted. As
last forever. Sandpiper Trail, a boardwalk that leads with all coastal beaches on this byway,
It’s where history started before words through a forest to the seashore. heed warning signs about rip currents
could be written, and where the lore of A view of the beach and nearby and dangerous logs.
the Quinault outlines the topography forested cliffs is tremendous, and the
better than any map. Listen to the birds, sight of thousands of shorebirds will Copalis Beach
the waves and the forest and you’ll learn thrill bird watchers. Up to 16 different This coastal community, where the
the language of the Northwest. species are commonly found here. In Copalis River greets the sea, offers razor-
late April or early May, a shorebird clam digging, fishing and a beach you
festival brings experienced birders and can drive on (stay on the packed upper
newcomers together for a delightful sand). Start with a visit to the Griffiths-
education. Audubon Washington has a Friday State Park, a 364-acre marine
colorful birding trail map for this entire park with loads of saltwater shoreline
region, the Great Washington State on the ocean and freshwater shoreline
Birding Trail—Olympic Loop. on the Copalis River. The Copalis Spit
Natural Area, a designated wildlife
Ocean City State Park refuge, is part of the park.
This 170-acre camping park One of the most fascinating
is a coastal wetland perfect for attractions in the area is the Copalis
beachcombing and investigating Ghost Forest. Located on the banks
sand dunes and the pine thickets that of the Copalis River, the forest of red
surround the freshwater and saltwater cedars and spruce trees was killed by a
marshes. Ocean City State Park is part massive earthquake in 1700. The land

54 c oa s t
pacific
hidden coast

beneath the trees subsided, and the forest coming to the beach on the Northern guides will help
was flooded over. You can reach the Pacific. Pay a visit to the Museum of the you appreciate
submerged forest by canoe or kayak North Beach for more information about the area’s rich
from an informal launch site in the the area’s history, www.moclips.org. plant and animal
middle of the town. Today, a visitor can enjoy the beach habitat through
at Moclips and hike along the Moclips stories dating back
Seabrook River, which forms the boundary untold centuries.
A vacation beach town founded in between the town and the Quinault The Quinault
2004, Seabrook is worth a visit for its Indian Nation. Museum, in
artfully designed village greens, walking Taholah, is dedicated
paths of crushed oyster shells and houses Quinault Indian Nation in Taholah to acquiring, organizing and
that resemble New England cottages. The Hidden Coast Scenic Byway protecting the material cultural
Seabrook has dozens of orange and concludes at the literal end of the road, heritage of the nation’s people, and to
yellow bicycles for use in cruising the where SR-109 meets the Quinault River. preserving traditional ceremonial and
neighborhood, but there are also plenty In the village of Taholah, on Quinault subsistence activities.
of off-road trails and old logging roads Indian Nation land, the Quinault Extensive photo collections can be
for serious riders to enjoy. River enters the ocean. This area is a viewed, and a library is evolving. The
When in season (October through popular tribal fishery during fall salmon museum is open Monday through
May), razor-clam digging is one of the migration. Visitors will enjoy watching Friday. Visit www.quinaultindiannation.
area’s most popular activities. Come both the salmon run and these master com for more information about the
prepared with rain gear and rubber fishermen at work. Tribal fish-and-wildlife tribe, guide services and the museum.
boots, then buy a license, rent a shovel
and gather some free clamming advice at
the local mercantile.

Pacific Beach State Park


Located at the edge of the town of
Pacific Beach, this 10-acre park has a
busy campground and unbroken views
of the ocean. A fine, sandy beach is ideal Planning Tips
for strolling and flying kites. Otters
Getting There: From Seattle,
can be seen here, as well as shorebirds, take I-5 south to westbound US-101
eagles and hawks. Also, be sure to take near Olympia and head toward Hoquiam (112
in the “Kelpers Day Celebration” in miles / two hours). Follow signs to Ocean Shores
and SR-109 and go north up the coast, ending
Pacific Beach over Labor Day weekend.
at Taholah.
Celebrate all things kelp here; it’s the
only place you officially can. Gas, Food and Lodging:
Food, lodging and gas are
available along the byway in each of the tiny
Moclips communities. Some camping is available.
Moclips was once a thriving Quinault Driving Distance 41 MILES
Connected or Nearby
village situated along the Moclips River. Drive time 1 hour
Scenic Byways:
European settlers homesteaded the area Pacific Coast, Cranberry Coast
photos: PATRICK BENNETT

plan to spend 1–2 days


in 1862, though it wasn’t until 1905 that
Local Resource:
the town became official and the western best seasons year round
Washington Coast Chamber
terminus of the Northern Pacific Railway of Commerce
top adventures
was completed here. Moclips became www.washingtoncoastchamber.org.
a popular destination for vacationers

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 55


state SCENIC BYWAYS

snake river columbia county courthouse

Lewis and Clark Trail


Recreate the steps of Lewis and Clark, their renowned assistant and translator Sacajawea
and the rest of the Corps of Discovery on their Washington adventures.

F ollow the Snake and Columbia


rivers, as Lewis and Clark did,
all the way to the Pacific Ocean near
elements. Witness the kind of wildlife
and natural scenery they might have
seen, and enjoy communities born in
twice found shelter and support with
the Alpowai encampment of the Nez
Perce Indian Tribe.
present-day Ilwaco. their wake. The Alpowai Interpretive Center, in
Meriwether Lewis and William Clarkston, features exhibits about Lewis
Clark were commissioned by President Hells Canyon and the and Clark’s time with the Nez Perce.
Thomas Jefferson to lead an expedition Nez Perce connection
from 1804 to 1806. Paraphrasing A logical beginning for the Lewis and The “Forgotten Trail”
Jefferson, their mission was to “explore Clark Trail is near the Hells Canyon Lewis and Clark entered Walla Walla
the Missouri River and such principal Resort and Marina in Clarkston. There, territory in October 1805, traveling
streams, finding those waters which a 300-foot-long sidewalk timeline follows in canoes on dangerous river waters
offer the most practicable water- the journey of the Lewis and Clark just north of what is now the town of
communication across the continent Expedition, from the commission by Dayton. On their return trip east, they
to the Pacific Ocean.” Their landmark Thomas Jefferson to the explorers’ arrival took an overland shortcut through what
journey through the American West at the Pacific Ocean. is now Walla Walla County.
can be traced today via the Lewis and Chief Timothy Park, on an island West on US-12, the town of Dayton
Clark Trail, a combination of historical in the Snake River near Clarkston, is a landmark on what is often referred
pilgrimage and recreational fun. offers camping and boating and is to as the “Forgotten Trail,” a part of
As you travel this route, imagine these located on the site of an important the Corps of Discovery adventure that
explorers paddling downriver in canoes, chapter in the Lewis and Clark story. historians often overlook. On April 29,
hunting for their meals and braving the This is where the Corps of Discovery 1806, the expedition set up camp on

56
lewis & clark trail

tri-cities area beacon rock

the banks of the Patit Creek, near the steelhead and sturgeon), and those old- Sacajawea State Park off US-12.
present site of the Columbia County growth pines that caught the expedition’s This day-use park at the confluence
Courthouse. This event is represented attention still stand. Don’t miss the of the Snake and Columbia rivers
in a full-scale, historically authentic restrooms—they were built in the 1930s commemorates the Shoshone Indian
model on those banks and includes an with stones from the nearby river. woman who traveled with Lewis and
interpretive kiosk. Clark. The corps camped on this spot
Dayton’s Columbia County Wildlife refuges near the Tri-Cities in 1805. Today, an interpretive center
Courthouse is the oldest operational Further along on US-12, McNary highlights Sacajawea’s role in the
photos: left to right, patrick bennett; john marshall; patrick bennett; Peter Marbach

county seat in the state, and most National Wildlife Refuge, southeast of expedition. Grassy lawns, a play area
downtown buildings are on the National Pasco in the Columbia River Basin, has and swimming beach, and a recreated
Register of Historic Places. Excellent a reputation for supporting waterfowl Indian village make this a stop with
restaurants and recreation ranging from populations in enormous numbers. something for everyone.
skiing to winery tours make Dayton a The refuge includes over 15,000
place that shouldn’t be overlooked, even acres of diverse habitat with huge The expedition joins the Columbia
if it’s on the “Forgotten Trail.” concentrations of Canada geese, Here the byway heads south on
mallards and widgeons. I-97, then west on SR-14 through the
Lewis and Clark Trail State Park Less remote is an urban wildlife Umatilla National Wildlife Refuge, a
Lewis and Clark Trail State Park, 5 area, Bateman Island, in the Richland- Mecca for birders.
miles west of Dayton, is on the shores Kennewick-Pasco region. The corps At Maryhill, with its well-known art
of the Touchet (TOO-shee) River. The once watched Native Americans there museum and Stonehenge replica, this
expedition passed through this area catching and drying fish from the byway joins the Columbia River Gorge
on its return route, and Lewis and Columbia River. Scenic Byway for 100 miles, until it
Clark made note in their journals of reaches the town of Washougal.
the ponderosa pines growing here. The Sacajawea State Park On this leg of the journey you’ll see
37-acre camping park has 1,300 feet of As the modern-day expedition windsurfers plying the waters between
river shoreline (where you can fish for continues toward Pasco, look for basalt cliffs and pass through small towns

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 57


lewis & clark Interpretive Center cape disappointment lighthouse at the pacific ocean

with plenty of personality. For more Vancouver and the Ridgefield Paddling past Grays Point, the team
details about this grand stretch, see the National Wildlife Refuge retreated from miserable weather to a
Columbia River Gorge Scenic Byway In Vancouver, history comes to life at cove (which Clark later referred to as
section of this guide. the Fort Vancouver National Historic ‘this dismal nitch’), where they were
Site, the location of an early Hudson’s pinned for six stormy days by fierce
Beacon Rock Bay Company fur-trading outpost. Daily winds and waves.
It’s hard to miss Beacon Rock, jutting interpretive presentations by staff in A picnic area and restrooms are

photos: top left to right, levy/sheckler; patrick bennett; john marshall; bottom, patrick bennett
skyward just west of North Bonneville. period clothing bring the life and times available, as well as an information
Indeed, the Corps of Discovery noticed of these rugged trappers and traders into booth in the summer.
it too. Mentioned in the Lewis and sharp focus.
Clark journals, this is where the corps The Ridgefield National Wildlife Station Camp’s historic vote
first noticed tidal influences and knew Refuge, northwest of Vancouver, has A few miles west of Dismal Nitch
it was getting close to the ocean. Today, 5,218 acres of marshes, grasslands and is Station Camp, located at Middle
visitors can climb the steep path (with woodlands for waterfowl and other Village, a seasonal Chinook Indian
a handrail) to the top of this 848-foot- wetland wildlife, which makes it easy Village. The Corps spent ten days here
high basalt volcano core for a spectacular to understand why this was another and each member had an equal voice in
view of the gorge. Corps of Discovery campsite. The refuge deciding where the expedition would
d gull s
features Cathlapotle Plankhouse, a full- make winter camp. This historic vote
pelican s an
scale replica of a Chinook-style cedar included Clark’s devoted childhood
house that would have been common companion (and slave) York, and the
during the corps’ journey west. Native American woman, Sacajawea.
Some historians call Station Camp “the
Dismal Nitch Independence Hall of the American
Clark’s Dismal Nitch, between Naselle West.” It would be more than fifty years
and Chinook on the lower Columbia before African Americans could vote,
River, was the scene in 1805 of a and more than 100 years before the
terrible time for the Corps of Discovery. right was extended to women.

58
lewis & clark TRAIL

Long Beach Peninsula sculptures, which terminate at “Clark’s Tree.”


A popular year-round Nearby is Cape Disappointment State
destination, the Long Beach Park, a big seaside camping park with
Peninsula is sought out for miles of ocean beach and two historic
io n
m p e t it
nd cas
t le co its expansive beach, historic lighthouses. Cape Disappointment
c h sa
lo ng be a
lighthouses, renowned restaurants, Lighthouse is the oldest on the West
cranberry bogs, and oyster farms. Coast, and North Head Lighthouse
Reaching the Pacific Ocean A family favorite for generations, offers tours and overnight stays at
‘Ocian in view! O! the joy.’ The the lively town of Long Beach offers the nearby lighthouse keepers’
forceful presence of Pacific Ocean wind, colorful shops, kite flying and a great residences. For more information, see
waves, and salt water 20 miles up the boardwalk above tall grasses. www.parks.wa.gov/vacationhouses.
Columbia River elicited the celebrated The park’s Lewis and Clark Interpretive
response. It would be over a week later The trail’s western terminus Center is a fitting end to exploration
before Lewis and Clark reached Pacific Three miles south of Long Beach, along this byway. Perched high on a cliff
surf on the Long Beach Peninsula. Ilwaco wraps around a busy port with over a cove, its murals, displays and films
Located where Lewis and Clark ended shops, galleries, canneries, restaurants, recount this legendary journey to the
their westward journey, this 28-mile fishing charters, and a summer Saturday Pacific Ocean. Take it in, and be grateful
spit juts northward from Ilwaco to market. The paved, 8.5-mile Discovery that your journey home doesn’t involve
Leadbetter Point—a portion of the Trail runs from Ilwaco to Long Beach. paddling and hiking the thousands of
Willapa National Wildlife Refuge. The trail is remarkable for its interpretive miles back to Missouri!

Planning Tips
Getting There: The 572-mile scenic byway begins on the Snake River in Clarkston
Driving Distance 572 MILES
(named for William Clark) on the Washington-Idaho border and runs west to the Pacific
Ocean along the Columbia River at Washington’s southern border. From Seattle, Clarkston is a Drive time 12 hours
315-mile, five-hour drive, so plan a full day to get to the eastern entrance of this byway.
plan to spend 3 days
Gas, Food and Lodging: There are plenty of places to stay on this byway, from
campgrounds to comfortable hotels. Public restrooms are available at all of the best seasons* spring, summer, fall
parks you’ll find along the route. Two Savor Washington Itineraries: Long Beach Peninsula and
Long Beach Culinary Loop are available at www.agr.wa.gov/Marketing/SmallFarm/SavorWA.aspx top adventures

Connected or Nearby Scenic Byways: *The route is open year round. Check www.dot.wa.gov for road
conditions in winter.
Columbia River Gorge, Pacific Coast, Palouse, Yakama

Local Resources:
Lewis & Clark Trail www.lewisandclarktrail.com/section4/washington.htm Mount Adams Chamber of Commerce www.mtadamschamber.com
Hells Canyon Visitor Bureau www.hellscanyonvisitor.com Skamania County Chamber of Commerce www.skamania.org
Long Beach Peninsula Visitors Bureau www.funbeach.com Vancouver USA Tourism www.visitvancouverusa.com

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 59


state SCENIC BYWAYS

Mt. Baker
Peek-a-boo Mount Baker views tease you as
you climb toward recreation, sightseeing
and a break from the ordinary.

Mt. Baker

W ith a winter average of 50 to


60 feet of snow, Mt. Baker is a
favorite of skiers and snowboarders.
habitat structures are installed along
the riverbank. A 0.3-mile path with
interesting interpretive signs winds
hiking, horseback riding, swimming,
boating, and even hang gliding. Rent
a rowboat, canoe or pedal boat at the
In the summertime, this glaciated along this stretch of river. You’ll find the park. A few 1940s-era rustic cabins
volcano draws hikers and rafters. trailhead near milepost 14 by turning are available for overnight rental, and
Travelers along the two-lane byway meet onto Truck Road. camping areas for tents, trailers, horses
with crisp air, no-stoplight towns and and RVs are plentiful.
dense Pacific coastal forests. During Kendall Creek Salmon Hatchery
winter, snow lovers flock to play in an The Kendall Creek Salmon Hatchery Black Mountain Forestry Center
area that gets more snow than anywhere in Deming welcomes anyone who wants On the way to Silver Lake Park on the
else in the lower 48 states. to see its ponds full of Chinook salmon, west side of the road is a small split-log
steelhead and four other trout species. house. This is the historic Gerdrum
Deming Homestead Eagle Park This hatchery releases hundreds of house, built in the late 1800s from a
An outstanding opportunity to thousands of salmon along the Nooksack single cedar tree. Today it’s home to
view eagles is located on the North River every year. Ponds are full from the Black Mountain Forestry Center’s
Fork of the Nooksack River. This is January through May, and spawning museum. During summer, explore
the spot where bald eagles congregate time is in the fall. Visitors are welcome the home and grounds while learning
during winter months for a feast of year round and may even get an informal about this region’s logging and forest-
salmon. Unique salmon tour if their timing is right. products industry.

Silver Lake County Park Maple Falls and Glacier


Turn onto Silver Lake Road near A great place to stop for supplies and
Maple Falls if you’re seeking a place information, Maple Falls is home to
to camp, picnic or swim. Silver Lake several grocery stores and cafés and is the
County Park is considered one of the last stop for fuel and Wi-Fi. In Glacier,
premier camping parks in the Pacific the last town on the byway, you will find
Northwest. The big draw here is the lake a pub popular with locals, some of the
itself, tucked into a mountain valley and best Italian food available anywhere in
open to all manner of water recreation, an unassuming small deli, a ski shop,
trolling and fly fishing. a small grocery store, a bakery, and an
There are plenty of opportunities for artists’ co-op.
ad tr ip
Mt. baker ro

60
MT. Baker

Glacier Public Service Center February, this race through the Picture Lake, Heather Meadows
Just past Glacier, stop by the U.S. natural half-pipe has evolved into an and Artist Point
Forest Service Glacier Public Service international event, attracting the At the byway’s end, Heather Meadows
Center (closed mid-March to late April) sport’s top pros from around the world. (closed winters) is one photo op after
to enjoy the cultural and natural-history Spectators seem to have as much fun another; capture Mount Shuksan from
exhibits. The staff rangers can provide as the competitors. Save the date, and Picture Lake and Mount Baker from Artist
excellent hiking-trail information, issue visit www.lbs.mtbaker.us for more Point. Many people mistakenly take photos
backcountry wilderness camping permits information. of Shuksan thinking it is Baker. Just
and give you maps, travel guides and tips The White Salmon Day Lodge prides remember that volcanoes are cone shaped
that will enhance your visit. itself on serving locally grown food (try and head to Artist Point for the Baker shot!
a Man Pie), and there’s a shop and gear A 1-mile interpretive loop trail
Horseshoe Bend Trail rental here also. Cross-country skiers will introduces visitors to the geology, flora
For real outdoor adventure, get on find trails, and in the summer there’s and fauna of the area and is the perfect
the Horseshoe Bend Trail in Douglas Fir ample hiking in the area. leg stretch after this gorgeous drive.
Campground (alongside the North Fork
of the Nooksack River) for cross-country
skiing in the winter and hiking in spring
and summer. It’s the best kind of contrast;
an easygoing trek right next to a raging
white-water section of the Nooksack.

Nooksack Falls
About 4 miles past Horseshoe Bend,
take the short detour to view cascading
Nooksack Falls, especially rewarding
during the late spring or early summer
runoff. The road to the 80-foot falls is
a short drive off the byway to a parking
area with an easy walk to the viewpoint. Planning Tips
Getting There: From Seattle, go
Silver Fir Campground north on I-5 for 90 miles to Bellingham.
The byway runs along SR-542 for all of its 58 miles Driving Distance 58 MILES one way*
Just 12 miles east of the community
as it climbs from Bellingham to Artist Point on the
of Glacier, Silver Fir Campground, Drive time 1.5 hours
flanks of Mount Baker.
open mid-May to early September,
plan to spend 1 days
is set alongside the North Fork of Gas, Food and Lodging:
Lodges, bed and breakfasts, vacation
the Nooksack River. This is a very best seasons year round**
rentals and camping can be found along the byway.
photos: Top, BRETT baunton; bottom, patrick bennett

pleasant place to camp while exploring Small locally owned restaurants, a brewery serving top adventures
the area’s scenic wonders. Wildlife handcrafted beer and an excellent vineyard and
sightings include mountain goats, deer winery are all waiting to be discovered as well. * Distance from I-5 in Bellingham to Artist Point just beyond the
Fuel is available in Nugents Corner, Deming, Mount Baker ski resort.
and elk; watch out for black bears in **The route is open year round. Check www.dot.wa.gov for road
Kendall and Maple Falls. Maple Falls is the last conditions and seasonal closures.
the woods. stop for gas while traveling east on the byway.

Connected or Nearby Scenic Byways:


Mount Baker Ski Area Chuckanut Drive, Cascade Loop, Whidbey Scenic Isle Way
Known far and wide as the birthplace
of snowboarding, the area hosts the Local ResourceS: Bellingham Whatcom County Tourism www.bellingham.org
Mount Baker Foothills Chamber of Commerce www.mtbakerchamber.org
annual Legendary Banked Slalom.
Glacier Chamber of Commerce www.glacierchamber.org
Started in 1985 and held each

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 61


state SCENIC BYWAYS

North Cascades Scenic Highway


As the North Cascades Scenic Byway loops between massive peaks
and along lakes colored turquoise by glacial silt, you’ll
see why these mountains are called “the American Alps.”
rainy pass

S cenic defines it. Of all the passes that


traverse the Cascades, this is the most
mountainous, with high hairpin turns
immortalized by the memoir (and later
movie, which was shot here) “This Boy’s
Life,” written by regional native son
to house dam workers. An old-fashioned
general store and 1920s homes will take
you back in time. Skagit Tour’s Diablo
and eye-popping vistas. It’s so rugged, Tobias Wolff. Lake boat and walking tour tickets are
it closes during winter months. And it’s available here. The tours feature gourmet
so stunning that travelers line up before Eagles, elk and organic berries lunches provided by the North Cascades
sunrise on the day it reopens in the spring Continuing east on SR-20 from Environmental Learning Center using
in order to be among the first across. Concrete, you’ll find yourself in prime locally grown ingredients. Nearby is the
Here you’ll find 1920s-era company territory for watching bald eagles soaring North Cascades Visitor Center, which
towns, organic farms selling their above. In the winter, this area has the largest offers travelers more information about
produce and, near journey’s end, the concentration of bald eagles in the lower North Cascades National Park.
recreational Mecca of Washington—the 48 states. Pressed for time but looking for a
Methow Valley. Load up your mountain Eagle-watching float trips are popular hike? Try the Sterling Munro Trail,
bike, grab your hiking boots, bring your activities here, especially during the a 300-foot boardwalk right outside
camera and appetite, then just enjoy. Skagit Eagle Festival in January, see www. the visitor center that leads to a view
concrete-wa.com for more information. of the Picket Range, the park’s
Sedro-Woolley to Concrete For more wildlife sightings and signature mountains.
The byway begins in Sedro-Woolley. interpretive ancient forest walks, visit There are miles of outstanding trails
You’ll see this town’s logging heritage in Rockport State Park, a day-use park here and further up the road, as SR-20
the chainsaw sculptures that decorate the along the lower Skagit River. During fall, weaves among Gorge, Diablo and Ross
historic downtown. spawning salmon pack the river. lakes. Views of these reservoirs and dams
Three miles before you reach About 5 miles up the road, between are easily accessible from roadside pull-
Concrete, Elk herd sightings are Rockport and Marblemount, look for outs or short hikes. The unusual pale
commonplace in the woods and the small roadside Cascadian Farm turquoise-green color of the water is
meadows of Hurn Field. From here, Stand. Be sure to pull over for a fresh the result of suspended particles washed
continue east toward Concrete, a town organic blueberry milkshake or a jar down from the glaciers above.
named for what it once produced. A of strawberry jam. This is a protected area for wildlife
row of hulking cement silos are still the including elk, mule deer, gray wolf, and
community’s dominant feature. North Cascades National Park mountain goats. You’ll also see a
A closer look will reveal quaint Farther up the road is Newhalem, a variety of birds a prey and migratory
churches, antique stores and a town community built by Seattle City Light sub-tropical species.

62
north cascades
scenic highway

Over-the-top views fields, cheese that comes from happy the dangerous art of parachuting into
Rainy Pass (4,875 feet) and, 4 miles local goats, even regionally roasted timbered mountains to fight forest fires.
east, Washington Pass (5,477 feet) bring coffee and handcrafted ale and cideries! This teaching site was established in
travelers face to face with terrific views A sunset drive to catch the nearly 360- 1939 and remains a valuable school
of Liberty Bell Mountain as well as a degree valley views from Sun Mountain for smoke jumpers all over the western
panoramic view of the Methow Valley Lodge is a perfect way to end the day. United States.
far below. The Pacific Crest Trail crosses The byway ends in Twisp, a tiny town
the highway near Rainy Pass. Twisp and the Smokejumpers Base that’s transforming itself into an arts
An unnerving but fun footnote On a back road that connects community complete with a local acting
to realize is that both of these passes Winthrop and Twisp, visitors are troupe and galleries.
were once at the bottom of the welcome May through October to Look for its local brew pub, bakery
Pacific Ocean! watch the action at the North Cascades using Bluebird Grain Farms whole-grain
Smokejumper Base, the birthplace of flour and farmers market.
Descending into the Methow Valley
A popular hiking, biking and cross-
country skiing destination, the Methow
Valley includes the communities of
Mazama and Winthrop. The 125-mile
Methow Community Trail system
connects these towns to the entire valley.
Near Winthrop, this trail system crosses
the 275-foot Tawlks-Foster Suspension
Bridge over the Methow River—look for
harlequin ducks here in the winter. This
pathway is a part of Audubon’s Great
Washington State Birding Trail—Cascade
Driving Distance 140 MILES
Loop, http://wa.audubon.org.
Like to ski but find the trails too Drive time 3 hours
tame? A heli-ski operation near Mazama
plan to spend 1–2 days
takes adventurers into terrain typically
reserved for Warren Miller films. best seasons* summer, fall
Planning Tips top adventures
The Old West town of Winthrop Getting There: From Seattle, head
*Portions of SR-20 close seasonally (typically from mid-November
You may feel as though you’ve entered north on I-5 for 60 miles and take Exit
through early May). Check www.dot.wa.gov for road conditions and
a movie set when you encounter the 230 onto SR-20 to get to Sedro-Woolley. Follow seasonal closures.
SR-20 east to the byway’s end at Twisp.
wooden sidewalks and false-fronted
buildings of Winthrop. This town gave Gas, Food and Lodging: Indoor and outdoor lodging—from bed-and-breakfasts to luxury resorts
itself a Western makeover in the early to campgrounds—is plentiful along this byway. Dining ranges from resort extravagance to small places
featuring regionally grown fare. There are gas stations in most towns along the route, but Marblemount is your
’70s to attract travelers coming over the
last gas stop before crossing Washington Pass and dropping into the Methow Valley and Winthrop. See the
pass. It worked. But this town isn’t all Cascade Loop Scenic Byway section of this guide for more information about the North Cascades Highway.
kitsch: some of the buildings really are
Connected or Nearby Scenic Byways:
historical, the rhythm-and-blues festival
Cascade Loop, Stevens Pass Greenway, Okanogan Trails
photos: patrick bennett

that takes place here in July is one of


the best in the state, and this area has Local Resources: Cascade Loop Association www.cascadeloop.com
a burgeoning and authentic local-food North Cascades National Park www.nps.gov/noca
Skagit County Tourism www.visitskagitcounty.com
scene. Ask around and you’ll find fare Winthrop Chamber www.winthropwashington.com
made with organic wheat from nearby

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 63


state SCENIC BYWAYS

North Pend Oreille


North Pend Oreille Scenic Byway (pronounced POND-er-AY) explores the remote
northeast corner of Washington State, an area that’s definitely worth discovering.
north pend oreille

T his rewarding drive through


Colville National Forest is a
favorite of outdoor adventurers, wildlife
of the Pend Oreille River’s emerald
northbound waters, is part of the
280-mile International Selkirk Loop,
restored many of the rail cars. Two other
special train trips are on Father’s Day
weekend and Labor Day weekend. The
enthusiasts and visitors curious about also featured in this guide. 20-mile round-trip excursion is priced
the area’s natural and human history. economically for families and offers
Discover massive dams, the largest big- Start in Tiger fantastic views along the scenic Pend
game population in the lower 48 states, The byway begins at the historic Tiger Oreille River Valley.
a town that was a movie set and even Store and Post Office. Built in 1912, it is
a bootlegger’s cave. For entertainment, now a visitor center and the last building Sweet Creek Falls
people here drive snowmobiles across a remaining in this once-thriving burg. Sweet Creek Falls, 5.5 miles north of
flowing river or ride a slow train through About 3 miles up the road, the town Ione, has a short trail passing through
stunning box canyons. of Ione (eye-OWN), founded in 1910, a dense forest to three lovely waterfalls.
This route, which parallels a stretch is cradled between the verdant slopes of Find unique rock cliffs and the remains
the Selkirk Range and the Pend Oreille of a frontier wooden water system along
River.  The town, full of frontier charm, the pristine creek. Portions of the Sweet
offers easy access to recreation on the Creek trail are ADA-accessible.
river as well as an extensive walking tour
of fascinating historical touchstones. Box Canyon Dam
Opened in 1956, Box Canyon
Quirky fun Dam is the first publicly owned dam
Ione hosts a couple of unusual in Washington and has provided
just-for-fun family events. Every Pend Oreille County residents with
July at the Down River Days Festival, hydroelectric power for over half a
snowmobiles race across the Pend century. Box Canyon Dam’s visitor
Oreille River with no other purpose center is open Monday through Friday,
than simply making it to the from 7 a.m. to 3:30 p.m., year round.
other side. The historic North Pend Oreille
There is a train ride to view the Valley Lions Club train is a great way to
fall colors every weekend in October view the dam from a trestle that passes
provided by the North Pend Oreille overhead. See www.lionstrainrides.com
Valley Lions Club, which has lovingly for schedule and fare information.
sweet creek falls

64
north pend oreille

width of the state, this hydroelectric


mile loop explaining the dam provides between 40-45% of the
significance of the flume electricity for the city of Seattle.
that once splashed logs Try to arrange a water tour of the
into the pond. The Elk backwaters behind the dam to get views
Creek Trail is a 2-mile of waterfalls and old abandoned mine
er o n loop that features a shafts that you can’t see from any other
blue h
gr e at
wildflower meadow where elk sometimes vantage point. The violent collision
graze and a cascading waterfall. Campsites, of tectonic plates that created the
Getting on the Pend Oreille River boat launches and summer temperatures Cascades and Rocky mountain ranges
In general, boat launches are easy to in the 80s make this lake a popular was so radical and twisting that the rock
find on the Pend Oreille. Rainbow trout, weekend getaway for locals. formations swirl and trees actually grow
bass and northern pike are plentiful in upside down along some of the lake’s walls.
the northern section of the river. Wildlife Boundary Dam Boundary Vista House, high above
viewing up and down the shoreline is Remember the dam where Kevin Boundary Dam, offers visitors a vantage
thrilling, with sightings of bald eagles, Costner meets Tom Petty in the action point directly over the rapids and the
herons, swans, ospreys, and Canada movie “The Postman”? That scene hydroelectric plant. Head north on
geese, along with deer, elk, moose and was filmed at Boundary Dam. Even SR-31 to Crescent Lake, then take East
bears in forested surroundings. though they are separated by the entire Side Road to the end.

Metaline Falls
A few miles from the Canadian border
is Metaline Falls, a regional center for
culture and art, which was cited in John
Villani’s book “The 100 Best Small Art
Towns in America.” Metaline Falls features
a couple of historic buildings including the
Washington Hotel (where Wyatt Earp is Planning Tips
rumored to have stayed), which boasts Getting There: From Seattle, take
an atmospheric Old West decor. I-90 or US-2 to Spokane, then head north
Elsewhere in town, the Kirtland to Newport, then take SR-20 north to Tiger near
the Washington-Idaho border (375 miles / seven
Cutter Theatre was originally a school hours). The 27-mile byway officially begins at the
but now houses a performing arts center junction of SR-20 and SR-31 at the town of Tiger,
and library. The building is listed on the and ends at the Canadian border.
State as well as the National Register of
Gas, Food and Lodging: There is
Historic Places. a small selection of hotels, motels, RV
parks and campgrounds on the byway, providing
Sullivan Lake year-round accommodations for visitors. Small
Driving Distance 27 MILES restaurants provide plenty of good food and local
Sullivan Lake, southeast of Metaline flavor. Gas is available in Ione and Metaline.
Falls, makes a great side trip and is home Drive time 40 minutes
to loons, blue herons, red-necked grebes, Connected or Nearby
plan to spend 1 day Scenic Byways:
white-tailed deer, black bears, grizzly International Selkirk Loop, Sherman Pass
photos: PATRICK BENNETT

bears, and gray wolves. Patient anglers best seasons* spring, summer, fall

are known to catch trout and bass. Local Resources:


top adventures
Pend Oreille River Tourism Alliance
Recreational offerings are plentiful www.porta-us.com/pages/activities/byway.asp
*The route is open year round.Check www.dot.wa.gov for road
here. On the road to the lake, the Mill conditions and seasonal closures. International Selkirk Loop www.selkirkloop.org
Pond interpretive site has an easy half-

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 65


state SCENIC BYWAYS

okanogan vista

Okanogan Trails
Running alongside the Okanogan River, in the middle of north central Washington,
the road is populated with vast views, small towns and vineyards.

T he 83-mile Okanogan Trails


Scenic Byway was once a well-
traveled trade route between Washington
farmer. This journey takes travelers to a
quieter time.
In the 1960s and ’70s the area was
be ridden on the streets of the town.

A birder’s dream
and Canada, frequented by Native discovered by a hippie counterculture Part of the great Pacific Flyway, this
Americans, cattlemen and gold seeking to return to such a time. As a route is a birder’s delight. Hundreds of
prospectors. Today you’re more likely result, alternative energy, organic farming species of neotropical migrant birds can
to find families in cars crammed full and self-sustenance is part of this area’s be seen in spring and fall, as well as large
of camping gear, heading toward a few lifestyle, along with snowmobiling, numbers of hawk breeds, ospreys, eagles
sunny days on a pine-forested lakeshore. hunting and small-town values. The and kestrels. In the winter, birders can
Historical touchstones, such as gold Okanogan is big enough for all of it. find Lapland longspurs, gyrfalcons and
mining camps, bald eagles.
sawmills and cattle Lake Pateros
ranches from long At the confluence of the Columbia Chiliwist Wildlife Area
ago, dot the route. and Methow rivers, Lake Pateros is a North from Pateros and Brewster is
The old times are perfect playground for fishing and water the 5,000-acre Chiliwist Wildlife Area.
palpable along this play of all descriptions. With two boat Various habitat types and natural and
byway; buy worms launches, eight docks and a waterfront man-made irrigation provide a home for
and rent a skiff park, with public restroom and showers, mule deer, bighorn sheep, moose, black
at a resort where this site is an open invitation to hang out bears, cougars, waterfowl, wild turkeys,
fishermen have for a few hours or a few days. and grouse. This is a popular area for
been gathering Hikers will find hundreds of miles of deer and game-bird hunting.
for decades, trails, including several thousand acres of
or pick up managed public lands within one hour Caribou Trail
sun-warmed of the town of Pateros. Those areas allow This byway follows a stretch of the
peaches from hiking through pristine shrub steppe and Caribou Trail, the name given to a legendary
a fourth- riparian habitats. In winter, snowmobiles 800-mile route winding its way north from
ev ent
generation are welcome on many trails and can also Oregon to Canada. The trail was used for
ede
stam p
omak

66
okanogan trails

centuries by native Tribes and later by fur fishing and snow play take over in colder for public use. Historic Enloe Dam,
brigades, gold miners and cattle drives. months. Anglers can test their mettle mounted on a natural waterfall of the
The Okanogan County Historical against smallmouth bass, rainbow trout largely unexplored Similkameen River,
Society has a sign in the town of and kokanee.   is visible from the trail.
Okanogan marking a section of the
traditional trail that is now part of the Oroville’s Similkameen Trail Growing winery region
scenic byway. Hike or bike the historic The Okanogan region is near
Similkameen Trail from Oroville to the northern tip of the massive
Sinlahekin Wildlife Area Enloe Dam and explore the rich history Columbia Valley wine-growing
Located 7 miles west of tiny Riverside, of the Okanogan. A part of the Pacific appellation, and consequently a
19,500-acre Sinlahekin is the oldest Northwest National Scenic Trail, this growing number of wineries and
wildlife area in Washington, with the stretch was recently opened and features tasting rooms have popped up. Check
first parcels having been purchased in breathtaking views, especially from www.washingtonwine.org/explore or
1939 using federal funds to preserve the old railroad trestle improved www.cascadevalleywinecountry.com.
mule-deer winter range.
Birders come here to view birds
of prey, shorebirds, songbirds and Planning Tips
waterfowl. Mammal sightings include
Getting There: From Seattle, take
black bears, bighorn sheep and moose in
US-2 over Stevens Pass to Wenatchee,
addition to elk and deer herds. then head north on US-97 to Pateros (200 miles
/ 3.5 hours). Pateros, at the confluence of the
Omak Stampede and Methow and Columbia rivers, is the starting point
of this byway, which runs on US-97 between
Indian Encampment Pateros and Oroville on the Canadian border.
One of the most colorful Tribal An alternate route follows the North Cascades
cultural events of the year is the Highway on SR-20 through the Methow Valley.
Omak Stampede and Indian Gas, Food and Lodging: Motels,
Encampment held each August in inns, RV parks, campgrounds and gas
Omak. Visit www.omakstampede.org stations are all plentiful along the byway. You
can also find some unique guest ranches that
for more information.
reflect the pioneer spirit by offering cabins and
cottages alongside features like horse hotels.
Conconully Lake There are several locally owned restaurants from
Big, blue Conconully Lake is the which to choose. Pateros, Omak and Tonasket
each feature bakeries and delis that source from
centerpiece of this busy recreation area
local farmers and have received wide acclaim.
and the heart of a remote and charming A restaurant housed in a former soda-bottling
little town of the same name. Pleasant plant in downtown Omak now serves as one of
hiking along the Muckamuck Trail leads the area’s best sources of entrees made from
locally grown ingredients. In Okanogan, there are
to wildflower-laden meadows and views Driving Distance 83 MILES three artisan-cheese makers (two offer lessons)
of the Okanogan Highlands. Fishing and and an organic grocery store.
Drive time 2 hours
birding are popular activities here.
Connected or Nearby
plan to spend 1–2 days
Scenic Byways: Cascade Loop,
Osoyoos Lake Veteran’s Coulee Corridor, North Cascades
best seasons* spring, summer, fall
Memorial Park
photos: patrick bennett

top adventures Local ResourceS:


Located at the byway’s end, this
Okanogan Trails Scenic Byway
park is a 47-acre camping park on a *The route is open year round. Check www.dot.wa.gov for road www.okanogantrails.com
14-mile-long lake stretching into British conditions and seasonal closures. Okanogan County Tourism Council
Columbia. Camping and water sports www.okanogancountry.com

are the ticket here in summer, while ice

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 67


state SCENIC BYWAYS

Pacific Coast

Pacific Coast
Trace a meandering path almost all the way around the Olympic Mountains,
and let it brush against oyster-packed inlets, isolated lakes, rain forests and Pacific beaches.

F ollow it to Northwest towns so


iconic, they show up in films and
popular literature. The Pacific Coast
Hood Canal and its people
As you travel north along the east side
of the Olympic Peninsula, US-101 hugs
and a shovel. Or buy clams at one of the
many seafood markets along the canal.

Scenic Byway begins in Olympia and the captivating shoreline of splendid Victorian seaport of Port Townsend
follows scenic US-101, first north along Hood Canal for a long stretch. Before If you have time, consider a three-hour
Hood Canal, then westward across the you begin your journey along the canal, side trip to Port Townsend. This artist-
top edge of the Olympic Peninsula, then a good first stop is the Squaxin Island friendly community has appeared in
south along the Pacific coast down to the Tribe Museum, Library and Research movies (“An Officer and a Gentleman,”
Columbia River. Center. This striking building on “Enough”) but is perhaps best known
On this byway, hike in temperate Shelton’s Totten Inlet houses displays, for Centrum’s music festivals, artist
rain forests, soak in hot springs or cold, photographs and artwork showing the workshops and residencies and its
clear lakes and scratch your name in history and culture of the Squaxin. Wooden Boat Festival in September.
the sand at the edge of the Pacific. Eat Hood Canal has a number of state The entire town is on the National
in a lakeside lodge where Franklin D. parks (Potlatch and Dosewallips are Register of Historic Places.
Roosevelt dined, or shuck oysters on a a couple with campsites) with easily
beach. The byway contains or connects accessible beaches. When in season Sunny Sequim
directly to five other scenic byways and (check http://wdfw.wa.gov), clamming Located in the rain shadow of
is a confluence of the best that western is omnipresent here, so come prepared the Olympic Mountains, Sequim
Washington has to offer. with a shellfish license, rubber boots (pronounced SQUIM), known as the

68 SECOND BEACH NEAR LA PUSH


pacific coast

“Banana Belt,” the driest area in western seals, sea lions and the occasional whale.  destination, with free ranger-led tours every
Washington, is home to the state’s weekend at 2 p.m. (snowshoes provided).
biggest lavender festival. Detour through Port Angeles
the fertile Dungeness Valley and discover This small town’s charm and boutique Lake Crescent, a President
organic produce stands, pick-your-own shops along with a variety of dining and and waterfalls
flower fields and a perfect panorama lodging options will entice you to stay Continuing west on US-101, the
of the Olympics spreading along the several days. There are also four wineries byway is sandwiched between the steep
southern horizon. just a few minutes from town and a very foothills of the Olympics and the crystal-
Sequim is a good place to access the active event calendar. Port Angeles is clear waters of Lake Crescent. Historic
Olympic Discovery Trail, a hiking, also an international port. The Coho, a Lake Crescent Lodge (built in 1916)
biking and equestrian trail which car ferry that travels to Victoria, British has accommodations and fine dining;
connects with Port Angeles, and the Columbia, sails from here several times a Franklin D. Roosevelt stayed here in the
photos: two left, marcus yearout; far right, patrick bennett

Jamestown Tribal campus in Blyn. day. See the Strait of Juan de Fuca Scenic late 1930s and decided to sign Olympic
Byway for more information. National Park into existence.
Dungeness Spit Near the lodge, the Storm King
Curving more than 5 miles out into Hurricane Ridge in Ranger Station is the starting point for
the Strait of Juan de Fuca, Dungeness Olympic National Park a handful of easy rambles. Splendid
Spit is the longest natural sand spit in Olympic National Park’s famed Marymere Falls is a great way to spend
the United States. Beach hikers can go Hurricane Ridge is 18 miles south and an hour or two. Waterfall buffs may also
inside the New Dungeness Lighthouse at 5,200 feet up from Port Angeles. Day want to turn onto Sol Duc Hot Springs
the end of the spit and see views of the hikers can find marmots, deer and Road, about 3 miles beyond Lake
strait, the Olympics and their long walk meadows full of lupine and glacier lilies, Crescent. There are roadside cascades
back. The spit is part of the Dungeness plus jaw-dropping views all the way to (look for leaping salmon in October),
National Wildlife Refuge, an area Canada. In winter, the area becomes and hikers will enjoy the 1-mile
populated by ducks and seabirds, harbor a popular skiing and snowshoeing hike to Sol Duc Falls, especially if

North Head Lighthouse, Ilwaco sequim lavendar farm


lake crescent quinault rainforest waterfall

they follow it with a soak in nearby still is—a popular place for hikers and the 0.8-mile Hall of Mosses trail if time
106-degree mineral pools. sport anglers fishing for salmon and is short. There’s also a visitor center and
rainbow trout in the Hoh, Sol Duc, camping, and an outfitter along the way
Entering “Twilight” Country Bogachiel and Calawah rivers. Located that offers guide services and raingear.
Southwest on US-101 is the town on the western edge of Olympic
of Forks, a pilgrimage site for fans National Forest, Forks provides easy Kalaloch and Ruby Beach
of Stephenie Meyer’s “Twilight” access to trails and wildlife viewing. US-101 veers toward the coast now,
novels. But long before vampires and then southward along a chain of beaches
werewolves hit town, Forks was—as it La Push within Olympic National Park, some of
A few miles west of Forks, SR-110 the last protected wilderness beaches in
leads to La Push, home of the Quileute the contiguous United States.
Nation. The shoreline at La Push, and Ruby Beach has a meandering creek,
nearby First, Second and Rialto beaches garnet-colored sand and shallow pools
are wonderful. Heaps of silvered to play in during low tide. Kalaloch
driftwood, sea stacks and beautiful (pronounced CLAY-lock) is a wide, flat
hikes are all part of the magic. beach with campsites and the popular
Quileute Days, a popular Tribal Kalaloch Lodge perched on the bank
celebration of cultural heritage, takes above. Bluff-side cabins and a restaurant
place in July. The Quileute Nation with spectacular views of the Pacific
maintains a comfortable resort on draw visitors from all over the world
the water’s edge and a restaurant to this superlative beach.  
n cano e jo ur
ne y at the marina.
ica
Nativ e Am er
Quinault Rain Forest
Hoh Rain Forest At the southwestern edge of Olympic
Northwest Tribal Tourism Less than an hour south of Forks National Park, you’ll encounter Lake
Northwest Tribal Tourism (NWTT) is a 10-tribe on US-101, take the cutoff to the Quinault and the Quinault Rain Forest.
consortium, located on the Kitsap and Olympic astonishing Hoh Rain Forest, one of the The pristine lake is surrounded by massive
Peninsulas. Cultural traditions and life-ways
last old-growth temperate rain forests old-growth cedar and spruce trees and is
relied upon navigating and maintaining trade
routes stretching over diverse terrain. NWTT in the western hemisphere. This place anchored by another historic lodge where
works to sustain and enhance the geographical measures annual rainfall in feet (14 a Franklin Roosevelt once stayed.
character of the environment and culture. In year is the average), and the wildlife Keep on the lookout for large herds
2008, NWTT became manager of the Pacific viewing and birding opportunities are of Roosevelt elk (no relation). The
Coast Scenic Byway (US 101), the only Native abundant. Several hikes of varying protection of their habitat was a
American organization to manage a non-native
difficulty and length will lead you primary reason for the creation of
United States Scenic Byway.
through the moss-draped canopy; try Olympic National Park.

70
PACIFIC COAST

Three byways converge After Aberdeen, the Pacific Coast this byway will take you to the Long
When this byway approaches Scenic Byway takes travelers inland on Beach Peninsula and every kind of beach
Hoquiam, choices abound as it intersects US-101 through forested hills and then lodging and recreation imaginable. After
with two other scenic byways. The joins the Cranberry Coast byway as it that, the village of Chinook is a gateway
Hidden Coast Scenic Byway follows travels through Raymond, South Bend to time travel at Fort Columbia State
SR-109 north, covering the pristine and Willapa Bay. Refer to the Cranberry Park, where barracks, buildings and
stretch of Pacific coastline that leads Coast Scenic Byway section in this guide batteries were active from 1896 to 1947.
from Hoquiam to Taholah, home of the for details about these towns. The byway ends at the Washington-
Quinault Indian Nation. Oregon state boundary, where the lofty
The Cranberry Coast Scenic Byway On to the Columbia Astoria-Megler Bridge passes over the
hugs the coastal route south from At the southernmost reach of Columbia River, leaving Washington’s
Aberdeen to Raymond along SR-105. Washington’s coast, a short detour off beauty in the rearview mirror.

Planning Tips
Driving Distance 350 MILES

Drive time 10 hours

plan to spend 2 or more days

best seasons year round

top adventures

Getting There: From Seattle, go south on I-5 for 60 miles


to Olympia and begin the 350-mile route just south of Olympia
on US-101, heading north toward Shelton. Follow the route all the way
around the Olympic Peninsula and down to the Astoria-Megler Bridge
south of Chinook.
photos: two left, patrick bennett; right,couRtesy olympic peninsula tourism

Gas, Food and Lodging: Many restaurants, plentiful fuel


and accommodations ranging from posh resorts to yurts are available
along this byway. Five Savor Washington Itineraries:
Sequim & Port Angeles, Chimacum Valley & Port Townsend, Olympia,
Long Beach Culinary Loop, Long Beach Peninsula, are available at
http://www.agr.wa.gov/Marketing/SmallFarm/SavorWA.aspx.

Connected or Nearby Scenic Byways:


Strait of Juan de Fuca, Cape Flattery Tribal, Hidden Coast,
Cranberry Coast, Lewis and Clark Trail

Local ResourceS:
Northwest Tribal Tourism www.explorepacificnwtribes.com
Olympia-Lacey-Tumwater www.visitolympia.com
North Olympic Peninsula Visitor Bureau www.olympicpeninsula.org
Port Angeles Chamber of Commerce www.portangeles.org
Grays Harbor Tourism www.visitgraysharbor.com
Willapa Harbor Chamber of Commerce www.willapaharbor.org
Long Beach Peninsula Visitors Bureau www.funbeach.com

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 71


state SCENIC BYWAYS

PALOUSE

Palouse Scenic Byway


This byway is a 208-mile patchwork of colorful rolling hills, farmland and history;
some of the first wagon-train settlements in the state were in this southeastern region of Washington.

S ilvered barns stand long abandoned


as rough-legged hawks lazily circle
above. Thousands of acres of wheat
Depression era by a local businessman as
housing for farmhands.
set type, see the unique collection of
equipment used in early newspaper
publishing and peruse archival copies
blanket the rolling hills, and their Colfax and the Codger Pole of eastern Washington newspapers. The
color—from spring green to autumn At the intersection of SR-26 and US- museum is open Saturdays from 10 a.m.
gold—tells of the passing of the seasons. 195, you’ll drive south onto US-195 and to 2 p.m. or by appointment by calling
A viable agricultural region, the area pass through Colfax. A good example 509-878-1742.
holds the largest concentration of wheat of the region’s nineteenth-century
per acre in the world. Barley, onions architecture, downtown Colfax has some Kamiak Butte County Park
and 30 percent of the world’s lentils are folksy restaurants, coffee shops and other From Palouse, head south for 3 miles
grown here. The land hosts waterfalls reasons to pull over for a spell. on SR-27 to find Kamiak Butte County
and sudden valleys. Magnificent buttes Be sure to pause at the Codger Pole. Park. A climb to the butte’s summit via
give way to panoramic views, and the The tallest chain-saw carving in the Pine Ridge Trail offers satisfying views
horizon seems to go on forever. world, it was built to commemorate of undulating hills and the Wallowa
a grudge-match football game played Mountains to the south. A birding
Pampa Pond by two local teams 50 years after their extravaganza, the trail offers sightings
The first leg of the byway, east on original game. The pole sports the of a variety of birds including warblers,
SR-26, begins at the western edge likeness of each of the 51 “codgers” who nuthatches, pygmies and great horned
of La Crosse (and after the cutoff to played in the rematch! owls. White-tailed deer can also be
Hooper) and includes some appealing found here.
quick stops. Stretch your legs or have a The city of Palouse
picnic at the lovely Pampa Pond, slightly Palouse is one of the oldest McCroskey House and
south of SR-26. The “pond” (actually a communities in the county and has Historic Barron Flour Mill
three-acre lake) is a great fishing spot for many historic sites. Among the must- North on SR-27, the town of Garfield
rainbow trout. sees: the Bank Left Gallery, the beautiful features the McCroskey House, listed on
A little ahead and just north of Palouse Hayton Green City Park and the the National Register of Historic Places
SR-26 is a small cluster of historical Roy Chatters Newspaper and Printing and built in 1898 by a state senator.
basalt houses and cabins built in the Museum. Visitors to the museum can Spacious and elegant, the mansion has

72
palouse scenic byway

carved oak mantelpieces and a hand- Granite Dam is just 2 miles up the road Grizzly Bear Research Center. Afterwards,
carved marble fireplace. and offers fish viewing rooms as well as enjoy a meal in one of Pullman’s many
Farther north on SR-27, in Oakesdale, a visitor center. Steelhead, catfish, bass fine pubs and restaurants.
the wonderfully weathered Barron Flour and sturgeon fishing are popular in Lake
Mill, constructed in 1890, is a grand Bryan—the backwaters below the dam. Visit the Dahmen Barn
wooden structure worn over the years by near Uniontown
decades of sun and rain. The mill has its Pullman: Home of the Cougars At the southernmost extension of the
own peculiar dignity and is a year-round Pullman, home to Washington State byway, on SR-195 in Uniontown, you’ll
photo op. University, features unique restaurants, find the Artisans at the Dahmen Barn.
shops, galleries and boutiques. Visit This restored dairy barn, surrounded
Steptoe Battlefield and the WSU campus to see the beautiful by a fence made from more than 1,000
Railroad Bridge architectural blending of both classic and wagon wheels, houses several artists’
Driving slightly northeast on SR- contemporary styles. studios, where travelers are invited
271, head to Rosalia and stop at nearby Swing by the WSU Creamery to take to watch regional artists at work.
Steptoe Battlefield and Monument, a home a round of its famous Cougar Head down the road to see the historic
commemoration of an 1858 Indian Gold cheddar, and allow time to tour the St. Boniface Catholic Church.
battle with the U.S. Army.
From here, you can see the Rosalia
Railroad Bridge. Listed on the National
Register of Historic Places, the concrete
arch bridge was built by the Chicago,
Milwaukee, St. Paul and Pacific Railroad
in 1915. Follow SR-271 from Rosalia
for the best photo op.
The town’s visitor center is a
historic Texaco gas station that will
Planning Tips
make you nostalgic for an older, Getting There: From Seattle,
take I-90 east to Vantage, then
small-town America.
SR-26 east to the starting point just past
Washtucna. The 208-mile byway is neither a
Steptoe Butte State Park loop nor a straight line, but includes sections
Going south on SR-195, look for this of various highways in southeast Washington
that crisscross and connect several small farm
park at the town of Steptoe. Shaped like
communities. The byway begins when SR-26
a thimble, the 150-acre, 3,612-foot- reaches the Palouse River near Hooper and
tall, quartzite butte looms over the continues east, then north, south and west.
surrounding flatlands. Drive the circular Driving Distance 208 MILES
Gas, Food and Lodging:
route to the summit and be amazed at the Hotels, motels, cabins, RV parks,
Drive time 4–5 hours
fertile valleys below. The year-round park campgrounds, and more can be found both in
is open for day use only. plan to spend 1 day the 11 communities on this byway and in some
recreation areas. Gas stations and restrooms
best seasons* year round are plentiful.
Boyer Park and
Lower Granite Dam top adventures Nearby Scenic Byway:
Lewis and Clark Trail
Continuing south on SR-195, nearly *Check www.dot.wa.gov for road conditions and seasonal closures.
photo: PATRICK BENNETT

20 miles south of Colfax, head west Local ResourceS:


on SR-194 to take in Boyer Park and Palouse Scenic Byway
www.palousescenicbyway.com
the Lower Granite Dam. The 80-acre
Pullman Chamber of Commerce
Boyer Park has a marina and campsites, www.pullmanchamber.com
swimming, fishing and boating. Lower

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 73


state SCENIC BYWAYS

san juan islands

San Juan Islands


The San Juan Islands Scenic Byway is Washington’s newest byway and the first route in the lower 48
states to include a marine highway—a historic canoe route originally traveled by the Coast Salish people.

T oday, Washington State ferries ply


these waters, laden with locals and
visitors traveling by car, by bike or on
cruise, or rent a moped for a self-guided
island tour. A farmers’ market is located
in a historic brickworks building for a
shops, gardens and a marina make Roche
Harbor a great stop for a meal and
historic walking tour. Guided kayak and
foot. Occasionally someone even walks taste of island-grown fare. whale watching tours are available and
onto a ferry hand-carrying a kayak Take a self-guided walking tour of the provide a great way to get a better sense
to launch at his or her destination. downtown historic district and browse of the place.
The recreational appeal of these the Whale Museum or the San Juan
islands is undeniable. Winding roads Historical Museum. Lime Kiln Point State Park
with light traffic beckon cyclists. Lime Kiln Point State Park, a.k.a.
Rocky coves captivate paddlers. Artistic Head over to Roche Harbor Whale Watch Park, is a kayaker’s
communities, eclectic shops and water Begin your tour by driving west on paradise and the only park in the
views everywhere charm everyone who Roche Harbor Road. Three miles out world dedicated to shore-based orca
visits the San Juans. of town, swing into a wine-tasting whale watching. This day-use park
room housed in a historic schoolhouse. has a picturesque working lighthouse,
Friday Harbor on San Juan Island Nearing Roche Harbor, tour the San trails, and an interpretive center. Late
The historic seaport Friday Harbor Juan Islands Museum of Art’s Sculpture spring through fall are the best whale-
greets the ferry with water-view Park, which boasts over 100 sculptures spotting months.
restaurants, boutiques, bookstores, placed in a 19-acre natural setting. Follow West Side Road to Wold Road,
galleries, and museums. Relax at the Continue to Roche Harbor Resort, where you’ll find a 25-acre lavender farm
waterfront park between the “Portals of where you’ll find the Hotel de Haro, that produces over 250 lines of lavender-
Welcome” (Coast Salish house posts) which was built in 1886 and is on the based products. The San Juan Island
and watch ferries, seaplanes and boats National Register of Historic Places. Lavender Festival is held here the third
enter the harbor, take a whale-watching Several types of lodging, restaurants, weekend in July each year.

74
SAN JUAN ISLANDS

Orcas Island you’ll find shops, galleries, restaurants park. Enjoy campsites, five freshwater
The byway continues with a 40-minute and lodging. The Orcas Island Historical lakes and over 38 miles of hiking trails.
ferry ride from Friday Harbor to Orcas Museum, located in the center of the The park’s Mount Constitution is the
Island, the largest of the San Juans. The village, has exhibits housed in six original highest point in the San Juans at 2,409
ferry lands at Orcas Village, with its 1800s homestead cabins. feet and boasts panoramic views of
distinctive general store built on pilings islands and the Cascade Mountains—a
above the shore and the 1904 Orcas Hotel. Historic Rosario Resort must-do side trip.
Head out on Orcas Road and turn Heading south on Olga Road brings
west onto Deer Harbor Road to the quiet travelers to the historic Moran Mansion Last Stops: Olga and Doe Bay
hamlet of Deer Harbor. Here you can rent at Rosario Resort. Robert Moran, a Come back down the mountain and
a boat or a bike, take a kayak or whale shipbuilder and former mayor of Seattle, continue south to the hamlet of Olga
watching tour, or just buy a coffee from a built the mansion in 1909, and today for shopping and a meal at the Orcas
store on a dock and enjoy the view. it’s the centerpiece of this popular Island Artworks cooperative, housed in
resort and marina. The mansion houses a 1936 strawberry-packing plant. The
Pottery cooperatives photographs from the 1900s, arts- last stop along the byway is Doe Bay,
Orcas—or “the rock,” as locals call and-crafts furniture and a music room where you’ll find a rustic resort. This
it—is known for its pottery. Ask the locals featuring Tiffany chandeliers, a Steinway Northwest icon offers yurts near the
where you can find potters spin clay into grand piano and a renowned Aeolian beach, soaking tubs and a truly laid-
art at any one of the local historic studios. pipe organ. back island experience.
Retrace your route back to Orcas
Bustling Eastsound Moran State Park Village, catch an Anacortes-bound ferry
Continue to Eastsound, the Continue south to Moran State and savor the return cruise through the
commercial hub of Orcas Island. Here Park, Washington’s fourth-largest state scenic San Juan Islands.

Planning Tips
Getting There: Take a Washington State ferry
from Anacortes to Friday Harbor on San Juan Island
to begin your journey. Be sure to arrive at the ferry terminal
early, especially during peak summer and weekend travel.
Once you’ve explored San Juan Island, take an inter-island ferry to Orcas Island. Keep an eye
out for resident orca pods. Foot passenger service is also available seasonally from Bellingham,
Seattle and Port Townsend.

Gas, Food and Lodging: There are plenty of accommodations on both islands,
although reservations are recommended, especially in summer months. Local groceries,
restaurants and resorts provide food for all tastes. Gas can be found in Friday Harbor and Roche
Harbor on San Juan Island, and in Eastsound on Orcas Island.
Connected or Nearby Scenic Byways:
Whidbey Island Scenic Isle Way, Cascade Loop, Chuckanut Drive

Driving Distance 120 MILES* Local Resource:


photo: robert demar photography

San Juan Islands Visitors Bureau www.visitsanjuans.com/visitors/scenic-byway


Drive time 2.5 hours

plan to spend 2 or more days


*This byway has three segments: a 30-mile ferry ride, a 46-mile loop
best seasons* year round** on San Juan Island and a 44-mile (one-way) road tour on Orcas Island.
**Shoulder seasons are best for avoiding crowds. Check for updated
top adventures
Washington State Ferries information at www.wsdot.wa.gov/ferries.

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 75


state SCENIC BYWAYS

Sherman Pass

Sherman Pass
Don’t be fooled by this northeast Washington byway’s short length—
it’s long on natural beauty and fascinating history.
SHERMAN PASS

S tep off the road and the din of


modern life becomes muted by
cheerful waterfalls and vast forests of
Civil War General William T. Sherman,
who passed through in 1883. Paved in
the 1950s, this pass serves as the area’s
home up to three of them.
Staff will help identify findings and
explain how to care for them. Check
pine, larch and fir. Dig for fossils, live on primary year-round east-west connector. www.stonerosefossil.org for updated
a houseboat for a weekend or enjoy the schedule information.
simple pleasure of walking alone in the Republic
forests of the Kettle Mountain Range. Downtown Republic is an authentic The Republic to Curlew trail
The Sherman Pass Scenic Byway remnant of the old frontier, filled with The bed of an abandoned railway line
begins in the town of Republic on SR- nineteenth- and early twentieth-century has been transformed into a wonderful
20 and runs east across Sherman Pass— buildings. Enjoy a fine walking tour 30-mile hiking, biking and horse trail
Washington’s highest maintained pass at past murals and photographs depicting that runs from Republic to Curlew,
5,575-feet—through Colville National the area’s rich gold-mining history. It’s which is home to the Ansorge Hotel
Forest to the town of Kettle Falls on the not all history, though—there’s still an Museum and the Antique Car Museum.
Columbia River. operational gold mine in Republic.
A historic route used by Native In Republic you can have the “city Curlew Lake State Park
Americans on their way to fish and by slicker” experience at a local dude ranch, Eight miles north of Republic on
wagon trains, the byway is named for or, for a more passive endeavor, watch SR-21, this 123-acre state park is a haven
the resident deer herd graze on the for year-round relaxation and recreation
town’s lawns and gardens nearly every on water and in snow. A memorable
evening at sunset. camping experience can include
opportunities for trout and bass fishing,
Stonerose Interpretive Center water- and jet-skiing and birding.
A great family stop on this byway is Wildlife is abundant. Birders should
the Stonerose Interpretive Center in watch for osprey, eagles, hawks,
downtown Republic, where visitors can hummingbirds, and wild turkeys. Foxes,
participate in a public dig of a fossil marmots, deer and elk are also plentiful.
bed that dates to the Eocene epoch
(making it nearly 50 million years old). Crossing Sherman Pass
An inexpensive admission fee (free for Heading east from Republic on
kids under the age of six) provides an SR-20, you will cross Sherman Pass
ic
fo ssil hunt
er in republ opportunity to dig up fossils and take (5,575 feet). This gorgeous crossing

76
sherman pass

wanders past waterfalls and through Area and its dozens of campgrounds Worthwhile side trips
Douglas fir forests. In fall, the deciduous are popular for boating, swimming and For further exploration, there are some
conifer larch trees, which look like fishing, www.nps.gov/pwr/laro. rewarding side trips from Kettle Falls.
evergreens in the summer, turn a radiant Head south along US-395 to Colville, a
gold, and their needles drop to the ground, Kettle Falls, a town that moved charming town surrounded by enough
creating a beautiful golden highway. The byway ends at Kettle Falls, a streams, rivers, lakes and reservoirs to
recreational haven nestled between the make it a popular fishing spot.
The Sherman Pass overlook Kettle Mountains and Lake Roosevelt’s Thirteen miles east of Colville on
Along SR-20 there is a pullout at the blue waters—which submerged the SR-20 is the turn-off to Little Pend
White Mountain/Sherman Overlook original town when the Grand Coulee Oreille National Wildlife Refuge. Follow
with an easy quarter-mile paved trail Dam was finished. Today, the edge of the signs for another 6 miles. At nearly
and interpretive signs detailing the the former town site is Old Kettle Falls 42,000 acres, this stunning area is the only
devastating fires of 1929 and 1988. Campground, which has riverfront sites, mountain forest refuge of mixed conifers in
Ghostly gray snags still stand, remnants interpretive signage with a marina and the continental United States. There’s free
of the massive fires. houseboat rental business next door. camping and ample fishing, and wildlife
There are interpretive trails all along Houseboats, complete with slides and galore. More than 206 bird species and
the route, so plan some time to loiter. hot tubs on board, are a popular way to 58 mammal species can be found in this
These areas include an old log-flume site enjoy the waters of Lake Roosevelt. refuge, www.fws.gov/littlependoreille.
with an easy paved quarter-mile trail,
and Camp Growden, where hundreds
of young men were sent to work during
the Great Depression in FDR’s Civilian
Conservation Corps.

Colville National Forest


Colville National Forest offers
abundant recreational opportunities
for hikers on almost 500 miles of trails.
Occupying more than a million acres and
filled with elk, moose, rattlesnakes, bears,
cougars, and bobcats, this is truly one of
America’s great, untamed wilderness areas.
There are trails for horses, mountain Planning Tips Driving Distance 35 MILES
bikes, motorcycles and snowmobiles, Getting There: From Seattle, it’s Drive time 45 minutes
boat launches on the lakes, scenic drives a 300-mile trip (about five hours), driving
over Stevens Pass and heading north on US-97 plan to spend 1–2 days
to take and rivers to explore. There are
then east on SR-20, to the byway’s beginning
photos: top, john marshall; bottom Marcus yearout

also 28 well-maintained campgrounds in Republic. best seasons* year round


that offer a multitude of distinct
Gas, Food and Lodging: Gas, food top adventures
ecosystems to experience firsthand.
and lodging are available at both ends of
*The route is open year round. Check www.dot.wa.gov for road
the byway in Republic and Kettle Falls or nearby
conditions and seasonal closures.
Lake Roosevelt National Colville. Camping is plentiful along this byway.
Recreation Area
Connected or Nearby Scenic Byways:
The creation of the Grand Coulee Dam International Selkirk Loop, North Pend Oreille, Okanogan Trails
also created 150-mile-long Lake Roosevelt,
Local Resources:
with 600 miles of shoreline and 30 species
Republic Tourism www.republicwa.org, Kettle Falls www.kettlefalls.com
of fish (including trout and salmon). Colville Chamber of Commerce www.colville.com
The Lake Roosevelt National Recreation

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 77


state SCENIC BYWAYS

Spirit Lake
Memorial Highway

Spirit Lake
This is the only scenic byway in the United States that penetrates a fresh volcanic blast zone.

A lso known as the Spirit Lake


Memorial Highway, SR-504 is a
52-mile journey into the scene of epic
lesson about our planet’s ferocious power
and miraculous ability to regenerate.
Seaquest State Park.
The park occupies a mile of Silver
Lake’s shoreline and offers 6 miles of
destruction that Mount St. Helens caused Mount St. Helens Visitor Center woodland trails for hiking and biking.
when it erupted on May 18, 1980. at Silver Lake A public-access boat ramp is located
Along the way, experience the Five miles east of Castle Rock is the 5 miles east on SR-504, and fishing
enormous geologic, economic and Mount St. Helens Visitor Center at Silver (bass, bluegill, perch, trout, catfish),
personal impact the eruption had on this Lake. The center describes each chapter of wildlife viewing and bird watching are
area, and witness the region’s recovery. the mountain’s history from pre-eruption pleasant recreations here. This byway
Rebuilt and reopened in 1992, the years to today. It also features exhibits is part of Audubon Washington’s Great
byway continues to carry its original name about the region’s history and culture as Washington State Birding Trail—
but no longer leads to Spirit Lake. Rather, well as offering geological background on Southwest Loop.
it ends at Johnston Ridge and affords a the volcano and the surrounding area’s
striking view of the post-eruption lake slow but steady recovery. Toutle River
and the volcano’s yawning crater. Look down the valley where the bleached Five miles past the visitor center is
Along the byway are four distinct bones of a blown-down forest are in view. the Toutle River, which the byway will
interpretive and tour centers: Silver Lake, See the evidence of an unimaginable force parallel for the remainder of this route.
Hoffstadt Bluffs, the Weyerhaeuser Forest that flattened 150 miles of old-growth The river became a nightmarish mudflow
Learning Center and Johnston Ridge. timber as if the trees were toothpicks. during the eruption as massive amounts
Each one tells a different part of the of sediment poured into the water.
story from the natural history prior to Relax at Silver Lake You can find some of that mud today on
the May 1980 eruption, the aftermath, A nature trail at the Mount St. Helens the walls of the North Fork of the Toutle
reforestation efforts and natural recovery Visitor Center leads to beautiful Silver River, and you can get a closer look from
of plants and animals. Above all, the Lake and its wetlands. Silver Lake covers a viewpoint on Stewart Dam Road (turn
devastated landscape is an extraordinary 3,000 acres, with camping available at right just before the Toutle River Bridge).

mount78st. helens
spirit lake

before, during and after the Lake, its surface still covered by a mat
eruption, with an emphasis on of logs, leave a lasting impression. The
reforestation and conservation entire lake was tossed 800 feet up the
projects. One of the interesting opposing mountainside during the blast
goals of the learning center and now rests where it returned, half as
is to not interfere with the deep and with twice the surface.
elk herd destruction caused by the Experience the power of this place by
eruption and let nature take its taking a short hike. The Coldwater Lake
Kid Valley course as much as possible. Trail is an easily navigated boardwalk
A small, spirited community that leading to a lake that was formed after
survived the blast, Kid Valley was Johnston Ridge Observatory the eruption. The Hummocks Trail—
once a town of logging camps and At the end of the Spirit Lake Scenic hummocks are mounds of volcanic
mining claims. When Mount St. Byway is Johnston Ridge Observatory, debris—takes an hour to walk and is
Helens blew up, many families in Kid where visitors are only 5 miles from moderately strenuous, winding through
Valley’s outlying areas lost their homes. the crater and lava dome of Mount St. lupine fields and beaver ponds on what
Mudflows buried logging camps and the Helens. Stands of dead trees, stripped was once the site of the largest landslide
Green River Fish Hatchery. of their bark, and the remains of Spirit in recorded human history.
Today, Kid Valley has reestablished
its character and charm. A local family
turned one of the original homesteads
into the Kid Valley Campground, a
convenient base for sightseeing, hiking
and biking the Mount St. Helens area.

Hoffstadt Bluffs Visitor Center


About 27 miles along the byway,
Mount St. Helens becomes spectacularly
visible. The Hoffstadt Bluffs Visitor
Center, the second of four tour centers,
offers an opportunity to take a good
look at the volcano and surrounding
valley. Large elk herds can often be seen Planning Tips Driving Distance 52 MILES
in the mudflats below the parking lot. Drive time 2 hours
Helicopter tours operate from here from Getting There: From Seattle, take
I-5 south to Exit 49 at Castle Rock plan to spend 1 day
spring through fall, and there’s a full- (120 miles / two hours). The byway starts in
service restaurant with a one-of-a-kind best seasons* spring, summer, fall
Castle Rock and goes east along SR-504, mostly
volcano view. following the North Fork of the Toutle River to the top adventures
Johnston Ridge Observatory.
A memorial trail through a nearby
*Most of the route is open
grove pays tribute to 57 people who lost Gas, Food and Lodging: Hotels and motels are available in Castle year round. Check www.dot.
wa.gov for road conditions
their lives in the eruption. Rock and Silver Lake, and several campgrounds and RV park facilities are
and seasonal closures.
located along the byway. Food and gas can be found in Castle Rock, Silver Lake,
Toutle and Kid Valley.
Weyerhaeuser Forest Learning Center
photos: PATRICK BENNETT

Continue east over the half-mile- Connected or Nearby Scenic Byways:


long bridge over Hoffstadt Creek, and Columbia River Gorge, Pacific Coast, Lewis and Clark Trail

enter the blast zone. The Weyerhaeuser Local Resource:


Forest Learning Center, at milepost Cowlitz County Tourism Bureau www.visitmtsthelens.com
33, describes the work of foresters

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 79


state SCENIC BYWAYS

Swiftwater
Corridor

Swiftwater Corridor
The Swiftwater Corridor features sun-drenched
views of pine forestland, pristine waters
and valley cattle ranches.

T he Stuart Range and the Alpine Lakes Wilderness play host


year round to campers, snowmobilers and fishermen.
The corridor contains historic towns, logging camps, mines
and ranches. Remains of the boom times abound—access a vast
wilderness from a former railroad grade, or belly up to the bar in
Washington’s oldest tavern. This byway rambles through the back
roads between Salmon La Sac and Ellensburg and reveals natural
beauty, signs of the past and country communities that travelers
on the speedier bypass miss out on entirely.

Alpine Lakes Wilderness


The byway begins with this stunning section of the Okanogan
and Wenatchee national forests. Encompassing nearly 400,000
acres with 47 trailheads and 615 miles of trails, the area takes
its name from nearly 700 small alpine lakes found in the valleys
lying between jagged granite peaks.
Access to the southwestern end of the wilderness is from
Salmon La Sac, a camping area about 10 miles north of Roslyn
on Salmon La Sac Road. Cle Elum Lake, a reservoir, lines one
side of the road. The surrounding wilderness is home to black
cle elum bears, elk, deer, cougars, bobcats, beavers, otters, badgers,
wolverines, mink and weasel. Birds from white-tailed ptarmigan
to bald eagles abound here also.
For in-depth information on birding along this byway, order
Audubon Washington’s Great Washington State Birding Trail—
Sun and Sage Loop at http://wa.audubon.org.

Salmon La Sac
The mineral rush in this region brought the Kittitas Railway
and Power Company, financed by French investors in 1911. With
it came the construction of a depot at Salmon La Sac, a wilderness
area located at the beginning of this byway.
The depot, now on the National Register of Historic Places, sits
at the entrance to the Salmon La Sac campground. In summer,
this place is filled with campers, anglers and hikers heading
into the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. Wintertime sees an influx of
snowmobile riders. Don’t expect a town in Salmon La Sac—but
you can find a restaurant and snowmobile rentals in the village of

alpine lakes wildernesss


swiftwater corridor

Ronald, which you’ll drive through along dogsledders find fun here. No motorized a historic wooden water-flume irrigation
the way. vehicles are allowed on the trail, except system—all excellent photo ops.
on the higher-elevation stretches, where
Roslyn snowmobiles are permitted in winter. Ellensburg
Embarking east on SR-903 along the In Ellensburg the byway ends, but the
byway, you’ll drive through the heart of Thorp discoveries don’t. Here you’ll find a rich
Roslyn, a coal-mining town founded in As you follow SR-10 from Cle Elum, and genuine culture thanks to a vibrant
the late 1800s. The historic buildings don’t miss the tiny community of Thorp. arts community, the influence of the
and weathered wood facades caught the A gristmill that was built in the 1870s still Central Washington University student
attention of Hollywood location scouts, stands, and visitors are welcome. Also, an population and plenty of cowpokes.
and the town was reborn in the 1990s odd combination fruit/antique stand here All of this is woven beautifully into the
as Cicely, Alaska, on the popular show sells preserves and locally grown produce fabric of a historic downtown district.
“Northern Exposure.” along with antique home furnishings. A vibrant farmers’ market, a brewery
Today it offers a number of unique Keep on the lookout for remnants of offering handcrafted beers and a few
stops for travelers, including the Brick long-abandoned gas stations, motels and noteworthy bakeries are located here.
Tavern (the oldest tavern in Washington),
the town’s small café (with its familiar
outdoor Roslyn mural), a historical
museum and a miners’ memorial.
Don’t miss the Roslyn Historical
Cemetery, which is actually a couple
dozen separate cemeteries located
adjacent to one another. Here the
deceased are segregated by lodge
or church affiliation and often by
nationality. At least 24 countries are
represented here, a testament to the
diversity of the region’s mine workers.

Cle Elum and Iron Horse State Park Planning Tips Driving Distance 42 MILES
Further east, you’ll find the town of Cle
Getting There: From Seattle, take Drive time 2 hours
Elum. Garlic lovers will want to visit in I-90 east to Roslyn (85 miles / 90 minutes).
February, when the town hosts its annual Take the Salmon La Sac Road about 10 miles north plan to spend 1 day
Bagna Cauda Festival—a local celebration from Roslyn to reach the Alpine Lakes Wilderness and
Salmon La Sac Recreational Area. best seasons* year round
of a traditional Italian dip so potent it
is guaranteed to keep vampires away. Gas, Food and Lodging: top adventures

Nearby is the longest, narrowest state park A golf resort, hotels, motels, inns, and other
*Portions of the route are
accommodations can found from Roslyn to Ellensburg, and camping is plentiful.
photos: Top, Patrick bennett; bottom, bill zude

in Washington. Iron Horse State Park is not maintained in winter,


There are a lot of good locally owned eateries in Roslyn, Cle Elum and Ellensburg. so check www.dot.wa.gov
a 1,612-acre park that was once on the Gas can be found in all the communities along the byway, but always gas up before for road conditions and
path of the Chicago-Milwaukee-St. Paul- you head into the wilderness areas. seasonal closures.

Pacific Railroad. More than 100 miles of


Connected or Nearby Scenic Byways: Mountains to Sound
trail extends from Cedar Falls (near North Greenway, Yakima River Canyon, Stevens Pass (via US-97/Blewett Pass),
Bend) to the Columbia River. Cascade Loop
The trail encompasses a variety of
Local Resources: Alpine Lakes Wilderness www.fs.fed.us/r6/wenatchee/cle-elum-wilderness
ecosystems and geological zones. Hikers Cle Elum/Roslyn Chamber of Commerce www.cleelumroslyn.org
and bikers enjoy it in the summer, and in Ellensburg Chamber of Commerce www.visitellen.com
the winter, cross-country skiers and even

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 81


state SCENIC BYWAYS

Whidbey Scenic
Isle Way

Whidbey Scenic Isle Way


Welcome to “Island Time”

ebey’s landing NATIONAL HISTORIC RESERVE

L ocated entirely on a single island and


a mere hour from downtown Seattle,
this byway is as accessible as it is leisurely.
Langley
Perched on a bluff overlooking Saratoga
Passage and the Cascades, the seaside
a series of marked locations around
Northwest waters where the public
may get a glimpse of orcas along with
And, 20 minutes of the journey includes village of Langley is an artist’s haven and other marine mammals and wildlife.
a relaxing Washington State ferry ride. stroller’s paradise. Watch skilled artisans For more information, visit www.
The transformation from mainland to blow glass; explore galleries, antique shops thewhaletrail.org.
island is not just physical—it is also and bookstores; visit a coffee roaster;
psychological. The pace of life slows, dine with a view; taste wines; and relax in Historic forts and lighthouses
traffic jams are nonexistent and tension upscale waterside accommodations. Take In the 1890s, Whidbey Island was
vanishes. Welcome to “island time.” in the gorgeous views of Mount Baker and considered a bulwark against possible
Whidbey Island is a Mecca for artists watch for gray whales feeding near shore enemy invasion of Puget Sound.
of all stripes—visual, literary, performing from February through May. If you spot Fort Casey and Fort Ebey, both near
and culinary. Studios and galleries are one, you get to ring the town’s whale bell! Coupeville, long ago stood down, but
tucked in among small boutiques, coffee the former’s underground bunkers and
shops, wineries, microbreweries, and South Whidbey State Park the latter’s concrete platforms marking
artisan chocolatiers. Eateries feature A camping park with 347 acres and gun locations are exciting spots for
seafood from local 4,500 feet of saltwater shoreline on exploration (and imagination).
waters and produce Admiralty Inlet, this lush park includes Views of the Admiralty Inlet and the
from island farms. old-growth forest and remarkable Strait of Juan de Fuca are fantastic—
Take a walk on views of Puget Sound and the Olympic after all, watching for an attack on those
a sandy beach or Mountains. waters was the reason why these forts
sit on a hunk of Outdoor recreation includes 3.5 miles were built.
driftwood and of hiking trails, beachcombing, saltwater
ponder the view. fishing, swimming and tidelands for Stay or just play
The salt air, the crabbing and clamming. There’s also a Today, Fort Casey State Park is a year-
friendly people variety of birding and wildlife viewing. round camping park with a lighthouse
and the local to visit, historic guns on display and
fare allow you On the Whale Trail opportunities for boating, hiking and
to savor your Several locations on the newly saltwater fishing. Designated areas for
day and renew developed “Whale Trail” are found remote-control gliders and kite flying
yourself for the along this route in Langley, Keystone add to the fun.
coming week. and Coupeville. This trail consists of This is also the site of the eastern
ht ho use
mukilteo lig

82
whidbey scenic isle way

terminal of the Coupeville-Port Oak Harbor marine and camping park offers beaches,
Townsend state ferry run, boasting the Oak Harbor is Whidbey’s biggest city old-growth forests, plenty of wildlife,
newest ferries in the state’s system— and home to the Whidbey Island Naval dramatic cliffs, 77,000 feet of saltwater
the Chetzemoka. Reservations are Air Station. During regular training, Navy shoreline and 34,000 feet of freshwater
recommended for this limited schedule jets can be seen—and heard—circling shoreline on three lakes. The bridge
route (www.wsdot.wa.gov/ferries). above Coupeville and Oak Harbor. and the cliffs it spans may look familiar
In downtown Oak Harbor, check out to you because this spectacular site has
Fort Ebey State Park the new PBY Foundation Memorial been featured in numerous national
Continuing north, Fort Ebey State which includes an interpretive center commercials. Hiking, biking and horse
Park is another all-season camping and one of the original amphibious trails are available, while boating, fishing
park with 3 miles of saltwater planes that flew off Whidbey in 1943. (catfish, cod, salmon), kayaking and
shoreline on the Strait of Juan de Several excellent restaurants, seafood freshwater swimming are among the
Fuca, a freshwater lake for fishing, shops and handcrafted-ale pubs can be many recreation options.
plus extensive hiking and biking trails. found here. As you drive slowly across this bridge
This park is a popular surfing area, and crowded with pedestrians enjoying the
seaweed harvesting is allowed from mid- Deception Pass State Park view, reflect on this little-known fact;
April to mid-May. Set on both sides of the handsome Deception Pass has more visitors each
Deception Pass Bridge, this all-season year than the Grand Canyon!
Walkable Coupeville
In charming Coupeville, be sure to
pick up a walking-tour map of more
than 50 buildings listed on the National
Register of Historic Places. Today many
of them house waterfront shops, bed-
and-breakfasts, art galleries, bookstores
and restaurants. Planning Tips
Home of the delectable, world- Getting There: Take the ferry from
famous Penn Cove mussels, Coupeville Mukilteo, 30-minutes north of Seattle, to
Clinton, the southernmost town on the island. The
has many restaurants, cafes and taverns
54-mile byway begins on SR-525, which becomes
that incorporate these delicacies, along SR-20 near the town of Coupeville. Contact www.
with other locally grown products, into dot.wa.gov/ferries for ferry schedules and rates.
their menus.
Gas, Food and Lodging:
Accommodations, including hotels,
Ebey’s Landing cabins, inns, bed and breakfasts, campgrounds
National Historic Reserve and RV parks, can be easily found on the byway.
Restaurants and cafes are also easy to find in the
For an even greater sense of this area’s island’s towns. Gas stations are plentiful along
history, visit Ebey’s Landing National the much of the main route. A Savor Washington
Historic Reserve. This 24-square-mile “Farm to Fork” itinerary for the area is available
at http://www.agr.wa.gov/Marketing/SmallFarm/
photos: top, tom stilz; bottom, darien chin

mosaic of 17 working farms, iconic


SavorWA.aspx.
barns and rambling trails has been Driving Distance 54 MILES
preserved as living history. Don’t miss Connected or Nearby
Drive time 75 minutes
the breathtaking vistas along a popular Scenic Byways: San Juan Islands,
Chuckanut Drive, North Cascades, and a
trail that climbs a beach bluff. plan to spend 1 day
portion of the Cascade Loop
In Coupeville, at the intersection best seasons year round
of Main Street and SR-20, follow Local Resource:
Whidbey-Camano Island Tourism top adventures
signs to Ebey’s Landing National www.whidbeycamanoislands.com
Historic Reserve.

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 83


state scenic byways

Yakama
Scenic Byway

Yakama Scenic Byway


This byway slices through the Yakama people’s ancestral
homeland, much of it now known as the Yakama Reservation. Mt. Adams behind Tahklahk Lake

T he Yakama Scenic Byway runs


south from the city of Yakima
(yes, a different spelling) on US-97
of farmers and growers in Washington
State. Nearly any implement that was
ever used to farm the land can be
abundant wildlife, birding and even
wild horses, www.YNWildlife.org.

to where the highway meets SR-14 found here. Downtown Toppenish murals
at the Columbia River. The byway Toppenish is located entirely within
begins where arid desert hills drop into Yakama Nation Cultural Center the bounds of the Yakama Nation.
productive plains—the Yakima Valley is Approaching Toppenish, you’ll see a Toppenish’s museums, Native American
one of the world’s leading agricultural building with a distinctive roofline. It’s and Western traditions, cultural diversity
regions. The influence and presence fashioned after an ancient Yakama winter and 73 historically accurate murals create
of the Yakama people can be keenly lodge, and marks the Yakama Nation an inviting atmosphere for anyone with
felt along this byway; museums and a Cultural Center. This 30-year-old a passion for history.
cultural center, and a restaurant featuring museum tells the story of the Yakama This town is also home to The American
authentic Yakama fare, are just a handful people from their own perspective. Life Hop Museum, and directly across the
of ways travelers can learn more about the sized reproductions of dwellings, audio- street, The Northern Pacific Railway
original inhabitants of this land. visual displays, and artifacts are just part Museum. Visit www.toppenish.net
of the “Yakama Experience.” for more information about
Union Gap Sample traditional dishes like salmon, downtown Toppenish.
This small town marks an actual gap buffalo stew or steak, finished off with
in the landscape that leads into the huckleberry pie and handmade ice cream Fort Simcoe Historical State Park
bountiful Yakima Valley. Duck into in the museum’s Heritage Inn Restaurant, A day-use heritage park since 1956,
town and look for a small restaurant that or overnight in a tepee at the nearby Fort Simcoe, located 27 miles west of
serves mouthwatering handmade tamales Yakama Nation RV Park, www.YNRV. Toppenish on SR-220 is a fascinating
(authentic and delicious Mexican food com. The campus is further graced by a side trip and was listed on the National
is easy to find in this region) then begin splendid view of Mount Adams. Register of Historic Places in 1974.
your drive through ‘The Gap’. The Cultural Center is open seven days Revealing much about army life in those
If you’re captivated by the hop and a week; guided tours and storytelling days, it also offers insights into local
mint fields spread before you, and the are available by appointment. www. Yakama Nation traditions in the 1850s.
fruit orchards in the hills, you may YakamaMuseum.com You’ll find plenty The park has original blockhouses
want to consider a stop at The Central of great gaming and entertainment and officers’ homes, large, grassy areas
Washington Agricultural Museum. nearby at the Tribe’s popular casino, for sports, picnic tables, and a short
This free (donations suggested) museum www.LegendsCasino.com. Throughout hiking trail. Seasonal birding includes
provides a look at the history and lives Yakama country, you’ll encounter Lewis woodpeckers, owls, eagles, hawks,

84
YakAma Scenic Byway

the Simcoe Mountains. Maryhill Museum of Art and


Nine miles of hiking and Stonehenge Memorial
biking trails lead to grand This castle-like chateau perched
views of Mount Hood. above the Columbia River houses
but t e
r fly This is also a prime winter a world class art collection ranging
y blue
silv er
spot for cross-country skiing. from Native American antiquities to
sculptures and watercolors by August
and wrens; mammals in the park include Goldendale Observatory State Park Rodin (including the a pedestal-sized
bobcats, deer, elk and badgers. An unusual public facility, this plaster version of The Thinker). Also
state park is a mere five acres atop a near the grounds, incongruent and
Toppenish National Wildlife Refuge 2,100-foot-high hilltop, with a view of spectacular, is a replica of England’s
As US-97 bends southward from the entire universe. Featuring one of the ancient Stonehenge. The monument
Toppenish, it crosses through a nearly nation’s largest public telescopes, the serves as a memorial to soldiers from
2000-acre oasis of wetlands, grasslands park’s observatory has attracted amateur Washington State that died in WWI,
and wildlife. The Toppenish National astronomers since 1973 and is open to WWII, the Korean and Vietnam
Wildlife Refuge draws on streams and anyone who wants a look. conflicts, www.maryhillmuseum.org.
summer irrigation to provide food
and breeding grounds for migratory
birds, and habitat for animals. It’s also
part of Audubon Washington’s Great
Washington State Birding Trail—Sun
and Sage Loop. Planning Tips
Getting There: From Seattle, take
St. John the Forerunner Monastery I-90 eastbound to Ellensburg then I-82
Located at milepost 24 between (or take the Yakima River Canyon Scenic Byway,
Toppenish and Goldendale, you can SR-821) to the starting point in Union Gap, just
3-miles south of downtown Yakima (150-miles /
stop at this Greek Orthodox Monastery,
2.5 hours). The 76-mile byway follows US-97 from
home to 20 nuns and novices. Here you Union Gap, across the tribal land of the Yakama
can pick up refrigerated dinners and Nation and Satus Pass to Goldendale and the
pastries (perfect for campers looking Columbia River Gorge.

for a gourmet fix) along with a large Gas, Food and Lodging: Hotels,
selection of handmade soaps, candles motels, campgrounds and RV parks are
and traditional art. This is a truly found in every community along this byway. Gas
is available along the route, with the exception
unique experience. of the stretch from Toppenish to Goldendale.
A Savor Washington Itinerary: Yakima Valley
The Satus Pass crossing and for is available at www.agr.wa.gov/Marketing/
SmallFarm/SavorWA.aspx.
Brooks Memorial State Park
Satus Pass, at 3,100 feet, has superb connected or nearby
photos: left, istock; right, stephanie wendt

Driving Distance 76 MILES


views of distinctive volcano-formed hills: Scenic Byways: Columbia
River Gorge, Lewis and Clark Trail,
narrow ridges, trending in an east-west Drive time 1.5 hours
White Pass, Chinook Pass
direction. Keep an eye on the hillsides plan to spend 1 day Local ResourceS:
for wild horses. This mountain range
Yakama Nation
is one of the few remaining areas in best seasons* spring, summer, fall
www.YakamaNation-nsn.gov
Washington where horses still run free. top adventures Yakima County Convention &
A few miles south of the pass, Brooks Visitors Bureau www.visityakima.com
*The route is open year round. Check www.dot.wa.gov for road Toppenish Chamber of Commerce
Memorial State Park is a 700-acre, year- conditions and periodic winter closures over Satus Pass. www.Toppenish.net
round camping park set in the forests of

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 85


state SCENIC BYWAYS

Yakima River Canyon


The short and sweet Yakima River
Canyon Scenic Byway is one of
Washington’s best-kept secrets.

A lso known as Canyon Road or SR-821, this byway is


an efficient, dazzling alternative to driving I-82 between
Ellensburg and Yakima. An 18-mile trip that is scenic year-
around, Canyon Road follows the Yakima River on a lonely,
curvy road, between high desert hills covered in sagebrush.
BLM manages over 9,000 acres in the Yakima River Canyon
area, including four developed river access sites. This is a must
see destination for the consummate birder, wildlife watcher, fly
fisherman or photographer. Canyon Road features stately basalt
cliffs that rise dramatically above the meandering Yakima River,
where rafters, inner tubers and fly fishermen somehow find a
way to coexist.
Rangeland and ranches lie to the east. To the west is the
sprawling Wenas Wildlife Area, where springtime flowers bloom
in brilliant yellow, purple and orange and wildlife viewing is
accessible all season from a trailhead that crosses the river and
leads up to the canyon ridge.

Recreation on land and water


Outdoor-recreation enthusiasts will find great hiking
through rolling hills and rafting opportunities on the Yakima
River. The canyon is famous for year-round water sports and
is widely regarded as one of the finest destinations for fly and
drift-boat fishing in the nation. This stretch of the
Yakima River is the only Blue Ribbon trout fishery
in the state.

Umtanum Creek Recreation Area


A few miles south of Ellensburg, the
Umtanum Creek Recreation Area, an ideal place
for rafting, kayaking or fishing on the Yakima
River, offers aspen and cottonwood groves,
surrounding remnants of historic homesteads
with their remaining untended apple and
walnut trees. In spring, the desert comes to
life with a dazzling display of wildflowers.
Beavers are busy modifying the creek,
and the Audubon Society recognizes
Umtanum as an important birding area;
an yo n
g the c
r af t in
yakima river canyon
yakima river canyon

there are lots of viewing opportunities. Recreation Area, overseen by the Bureau southern half. If you want to stalk this
Rattlesnakes are also common during of Land Management. A reservoir there rarest of rare plants, June is the best
late spring and in the summer—leave is used for boating, swimming and month to spy them blooming in the
them alone and stay alert so you can rafting, and this is the last take-out point basalt columns, looking like bouquets
enjoy your visit. for floaters and anglers on the river. left behind by rock climbers.
Park in the lot and cross a suspension Binoculars are recommended to see
bridge over the river and head out for Selah Cliffs Natural Area Preserve the flower, which exists nowhere else
an easy hike along the creek, or ascend a Five miles northeast of Selah, in the world. But look around, too, at
succession of ridges to see snowcapped stretching along Selah Creek from the cliffs within the project area; they’re a
mountain peaks to the west and the Saddle eastern edge of SR-821 and I-82, the prime habitat for prairie falcons and
Mountains and endless desert to the east. Selah Cliffs Natural Area Preserve is an golden eagles.
Wildlife viewing includes California excellent example of a private and public The byway officially ends as SR-821
bighorn sheep, mule deer, Rocky partnership that resulted in conservation rejoins the rushing traffic of I-82. But if
Mountain elk, and coyotes. Golden of an endangered habitat. The preserve, you want to celebrate your discovery of
eagles gracefully soar high above on open to the public, is home to a rare this remote byway, cross the river into
the thermals that rise from the canyon population of basalt daisy, a threatened Selah, buy a can of apple juice and raise
floor. The basalt cliffs here, with their plant that certainly looks dainty and a toast to your travels in the town that
clefts and crevices, are home to the only grows high up in cracks in the dubs itself “the apple juice capital of
densest population of nesting raptors rock left by ancient lava in the canyon’s the world.”
in the state of Washington. For a
truly comprehensive look at birding
opportunities along this byway, go to Planning Tips
http://wa.audubon.org and look for the
Getting There: From Seattle, take
Great Washington State Birding Trail—
I-90 east for 107 miles to Ellensburg
Sun and Sage Loop. (about a 1.5-hour drive) and take the exit for
SR-821 South/Canyon Road. The byway runs all
Roza Dam the way to an intersection south of Selah, where it
merges onto I-82 south heading toward Yakima.
Down the road from Umtanum Creek
and 10 miles north of Yakima is Roza Gas, Food and Lodging: Motels,
Dam. Built in 1939, the dam diverts resorts, RV parks and other lodging are
plentiful at both ends of the byway in Ellensburg,
water to irrigate the otherwise arid land
Selah and Yakima. Gas is available in Ellensburg at
in the lower Yakima Valley, making it the north entrance and in Selah and Yakima at the
one of the most bountiful agricultural south. Gas up before you head through the canyon.
regions in the world. Every vegetable you Restaurants featuring locally grown cuisine
are easy to find at both ends of the canyon in
can imagine—and some you’ve never
Ellensburg and Yakima. Check with the visitor
heard of—along with tree-ripened fruits center in Ellensburg or Yakima (see the resources
like apples, cherries, peaches, pears, and below for their Web addresses) and find out where
plums, and of course hops and wine the locals eat. That’s where the best food and
conversation will be found.
grapes, are grown in the valley’s desert
thanks in large part to the water diverted Connected or Nearby Scenic Driving Distance 18 MILES
from this dam. Byways:
Swiftwater Corridor, Mountains
to Sound Greenway, White Pass, Chinook Pass Drive time 75 minutes
Take in the impressive operation,
photos: PATRICK BENNETT

and don’t miss the fish ladder where Local Resources: plan to spend 1 day
salmon and endangered steelhead make Ellensburg Chamber of Commerce
www.visitellen.com best seasons year round
their heroic upstream leaps on the long Yakima Valley Convention and Visitors
journey home. Bureau www.visityakima.com top adventures
Just above Roza Dam is the Roza

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 87


information

Scenic Byway Designations

The byways are broken down into three tiers: All American beauty and breathtaking vistas. A selected byway must
Roads, National Scenic Byways and State Scenic Byways. also demonstrate rich and varied archaeological, cultural,
These designations are awarded by the U.S. Department of historical, natural, and recreational qualities. We’ve even
Transportation’s Federal Highway Administration based on included several “Savor Washington: Farm to Fork” itineraries
a rigorous grant application process and development of a for you to experience along the way. There is truly something
“corridor management plan” by the destination marketing for everyone to enjoy on these treasured pathways.
organizations and city planners. You, the traveler, are rewarded by simply being able to plan
This process involves countless hours of work and some time, select a direction and drive. It is our sincere hope
coordination with local communities and state agencies such that you will use this guide to plan many road trips across our
as Tourism, Fish & Wildlife (with assistance from Audubon wonderful state. Also of note is that the estimated travel times
Washington), Transportation, Parks, and Agriculture to indicated in the planning tips in each byway come in two
ensure proper signage, infrastructure and travel adventures forms: the time it takes to accomplish the drive from start to
are available along the selected routes. finish and the time it may take to stop and enjoy a few of its
The definition of “scenic” goes far beyond natural distinct experiences.

Scenic Byways Quick Reference Guide

Statewide and National Resources All American Roads


Washington State Tourism Washington State Department of Agriculture Chinook Pass Scenic Byway – Page 9
www.experiencewa.com/scenic-byways.aspx Savor Washington
www.chinookscenicbyway.com
Phone: 360-594-4010 / 1-877-260-2731 www.agr.wa.gov/Marketing/SmallFarm/
Phone: 360-825-7666 or 205-304-3598
SavorWA.aspx
Washington State Parks Phone: 360-902-1800
www.parks.wa.gov International Selkirk Loop – Page 15
Phone: 360-902-8844 / 1-888-CAMP-OUT Audubon Washington
www.selkirkloop.org
http://wa.audubon.org/
Phone: 208-267-0822
Washington State Department of Fish & Wildlife Phone: 206-652-2444
http://wdfw.wa.gov Pend Oreille River Tourism Alliance
National Scenic Byways
Phone: 360-902-2200 www.porta-us.com/pages/activities/byway.asp
www.byways.org/explore/states/WA
Phone: 208-437-0274
Washington State Department of Transportation Phone: 1-800-4BYWAYS
www.wsdot.wa.gov/localprograms/ National Parks Service
scenicbyways/map.htm www.nps.gov
Phone: 360-705-7000 Phone: 360-854-7200
Washington State Ferries U.S. Forest Service
www.wsdot.wa.gov/ferries www.fs.fed.us
Phone: 206-464-6400 / 1-888-808-7977 Phone: 1-800-832-1355

88
information

National Scenic Byways State Scenic Byways Skamania County Chamber of Commerce
www.skamania.org
Coulee Corridor – Page 21 Phone: 509-427-8911 / 1-800-989-9178
Cape Flattery Tribal Scenic Byway – Page 40
www.couleecorridor.com Vancouver USA Tourism
Makah Nation
www.visitvancouverusa.com
Phone: 509-632-8638 www.makah.com
Phone: 360-750-1553 / 1-877-600-0800
Phone: 360-645-2201
Grand Coulee Chamber of Commerce
www.grandcouleedam.org Strait of Juan de Fuca - Highway 112 Cranberry Coast Scenic Byway – Page 52
Phone: 509-633-3074 www.highway112.org
Cranberry Coast Tourism
1-800-COULEE2 Phone: 360-452-8552 / 1-800-942-4042
www.cranberrycoast.net
Grant County Tourism Olympic Peninsula Tourism
Cranberry Coast Chamber of Commerce
www.tourgrantcounty.com www.olympicpeninsula.org
www.cranberrycoastcoc.com
Phone: 509-754-2011 Ext. 331 Phone: 360-452-8552 / 1-800-942-4042
Phone: 360-268-9422 / 1-800-345-6223

Mountains to Sound Greenway – Page 25 Cascade Loop – Page 42 Grays Harbor Tourism
http://visitgraysharbor.com
Mountains to Sound Greenway Trust Cascade Loop Association
Phone: 1-800-621-9625
www.mtsgreenway.org www.cascadeloop.com
Phone: 206-382-5565 Phone: 509-662-3888
Hidden Coast Scenic Byway – Page 54
Lake Chelan Tourism
Stevens Pass Greenway – Page 29 Washington Coast Chamber of Commerce
www.cometothelake.com
www.stevenspassgreenway.org www.washingtoncoastchamber.org.
Phone: 1-877-440-7933
Phone: 360-677-2030 WWCCC@washingtoncoastchamber.org
Leavenworth Chamber of Commerce
Leavenworth Chamber of Commerce Grays Harbor Tourism
www.leavenworth.org
www.leavenworth.org http://visitgraysharbor.com
Phone: 509-548-5807
Phone: 509-548-5807 Phone: 1-800-621-9625
Skagit Valley Tourism (Mt. Vernon Chamber)
Sky Valley Visitor Information Center Ocean Shores
www.visitskagitcounty.com
www.skyvalleychamber.com www.tourismoceanshores.com
Phone: 360-428-8547
Phone: 360-289-9586 / 1-866-60-COAST
Snohomish County Tourism
www.snohomish.org Cascade Valleys – Page 46
Lewis & Clark Trail – Page 56
Phone: 425-348-5802 Woodinville Tourism
1-888-338-0976 www.lewisandclarktrail.com/section4/
www.ci.woodinville.wa.us/play/tourism.asp
washington.htm
Wenatchee Valley Visitors Bureau Phone: 425-489-2700
Hells Canyon Visitor Bureau
www.wenatcheevalley.org Redmond Tourism
www.hellscanyonvisitor.com
Phone: 1-800-572-7753 www.experienceredmond.com
Phone: 509-758-7489 / 1-877-774-7248
Snoqualmie Valley Chamber of Commerce
Strait of Juan de Fuca - Highway 112 Mount Adams Chamber of Commerce
www.snovalley.org/vg_attractions.html
Page 33 www.mtadamschamber.com
Phone: 425-888-4440
www.highway112.org Phone: 509-493-3630
Phone: 360-452-8552 / 1-800-942-4042 Outside Seattle
Skamania County Chamber of Commerce
www.outsideseattle.org
Olympic Peninsula Tourism www.skamania.org
www.olympicpeninsula.org Phone: 509-427-8911 / 1-800-989-9178
Chuckanut Drive – Page 48
Phone: 360-452-8552 / 1-800-942-4042
Tri-Cities Visitors Bureau
Chuckanut Drive Association
Sekiu-Clallam Bay Chamber www.visittri-cities.com
www.chuckanutdrive.com
www.sekiu.com Phone: 509-735-8486 / 1-800-254-5824
Phone: 360-963-2339 / 1-877-694-9433 Bellingham Whatcom County Tourism
Vancouver USA Tourism
www.bellingham.org
www.visitvancouverusa.com
White Pass Scenic Byway – Page 37 Phone: 360-671-3990 / 1-800-487-2032
Phone: 360-750-1553 / 1-877-600-0800
www.whitepassbyway.com Columbia River Gorge – Page 50 Long Beach Peninsula Visitors Bureau
Phone: 360-494-2223
Columbia River Gorge Visitors Association www.funbeach.com
Visit Rainier www.crgva.org Phone: 360-642-2400/1-800-451-2542
www.visitrainier.com Phone: 1-800-98-GORGE
Phone: 360-748-4514 / 1-877-270-7155
Mount Adams Chamber of Commerce
www.mtadamschamber.com
Phone: 509-493-3630

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 89


information

Mt. Baker Scenic Byway – Page 60 Port Angeles Chamber of Commerce Swiftwater Corridor Scenic Byway – Page 80
www.portangeles.org
Mount Baker Foothills Chamber of Commerce Alpine Lakes Wilderness
Phone: 360-452-2363
www.mtbakerchamber.org (Cle Elum Ranger Station)
Phone: 360-599-1518 Grays Harbor Tourism www.fs.fed.us/r6/wenatchee/cle-elum-
www.visitgraysharbor.com wilderness
Bellingham Whatcom County Tourism
Phone: 1-800-621-9625 Phone: 509-852-1100
www.bellingham.org
Phone: 360-671-3990 / 1-800-487-2032 Willapa Harbor Chamber of Commerce Cle Elum/Roslyn Chamber of Commerce
www.willapaharbor.org www.cleelumroslyn.org
Glacier Chamber of Commerce Phone: 509-674-5958
www.glacierchamber.org Phone: 360-942-541
Phone: 360-599-2714 Ellensburg Chamber of Commerce
Long Beach Peninsula Visitors Bureau
www.visitellen.com
www.funbeach.com
North Cascades Scenic HIghway – Page 62 Phone: 509-925-3137 / 1-888-925-2204
Phone: 360-642-2400 / 1-800-451-2542
Cascade Loop Association Whidbey Scenic Isle Way – Page 82
www.cascadeloop.com Palouse Scenic Byway – Page 72
Whidbey-Camano Island Tourism
Phone: 509-662-3888 www.palousescenicbyway.com
www.whidbeycamanoislands.com
Skagit Valley Tourism Phone: 509-334-3565 / 1-800-365-6948
Phone: 360-675-5412 / 1-888-747-7777
www.visitskagitcounty.com Pullman Chamber of Commerce Snohomish County Tourism
Phone: 360-428-8547 www.pullmanchamber.com www.snohomish.org
Winthrop Tourism Phone: 509-334-3565 / 1-800-ENJOY-IT Phone: 425-348-5802 / 1-888-338-0976
www.winthropwashington.com
San Juan Islands Scenic Byway – Page 74 Skagit Valley Tourism
Phone: 509-996-2125 / 1-888-463-8469
www.visitskagitcounty.com
San Juan Islands Visitors Bureau Phone: 360-428-8547
North Pend Oreille Scenic Byway – Page 64 www.visitsanjuans.com/visitors/scenic-byway
Pend Oreille River Tourism Alliance Phone: 1-888-468-3701 x 1 Yakama Scenic Byway – Page 84
www.porta-us.com/pages/activities/byway.asp Yakama Nation
Phone: 509-447-5286 Sherman Pass Scenic Byway – Page 76
www.yakamanation-nsn.gov
International Selkirk Loop Republic Tourism Phone: 509-865-5121
www.selkirkloop.org www.republicwa.org
Yakima Valley Convention and Visitors Bureau
Phone: 208-267-0822 Phone: 509-775-3216
www.visityakima.com
Kettle Falls Visitor Center Phone: 509-575-3010 / 1-800-221-0751
Okanogan Trails Scenic Byway – Page 66 www.nps.gov.laro
Goldendale Chamber of Commerce
Okanogan County Tourism Council Phone: 509-738-2300 www.goldendalechamber.org/visitors
www.okanogancountry.com Phone: 509-773-3400
Colville Chamber of Commerce
Phone: 1-888-431-3080
www.colville.com
Phone: 509-684-5973 Yakima River Canyon – Page 86
Pacific Coast Scenic Byway – Page 68
Ellensburg Chamber of Commerce
Northwest Tribal Tourism Spirit Lake Memorial Highway www.visitellen.com
www.explorepacificnwtribes.com (Mount St. Helens) – Page 78 Phone: 509-925-3137 / 1-888-925-2204
North Olympic Peninsula Visitor Bureau Cowlitz County Tourism Bureau Yakima Valley Convention and Visitors Bureau
www.olympicpeninsula.org www.visitmtsthelens.com www.visityakima.com
Phone: 360-452-8552 / 1-800-942-4042 Phone: 360-577-3137 Phone: 509-575-3010 / 1-800-221-0751

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