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01/07/2021

TEXTILE TEST METHODS TRAINING


COLORFASTNESS TEST
TRAINER: MD. KHAIRUL ALAM MOJUMDER

TRAINING TOPICS (DAY 1)

1 Color fastness to washing (ISO 105 C06:2010)

2 Color fastness to rubbing (ISO 105 X12:2016)

3 Color fastness to water (ISO 105 E01:2013)

4 Color fastness to perspiration (ISO 105 E04:2013)

5 Color fastness to phenolic yellowing (ISO 105 X18:2007)

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01
COLOR FASTNESS TO
DOMESTIC & COMMERCIAL
LAUNDERING
ISO 105 C06:2010

SCOPE & PRINCIPLE

SCOPE :
This method determining the resistance of the colour
of the textiles of all kind and in all forms to domestic
or commercial laundering procedures used for normal
household articles using a reference detergent.

PRINCIPLE:
• A specimen of the textile, in contact with one or
two specified adjacent fabrics is mechanically
agitated under specified conditions of time and
temperature in a soap solution, then rinsed and
dried.
• The colour change of specimen and staining of
adjacent fabric(s) are assessed using Grey Scale.

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APPARATUS

45±10 mm
Launder-O-Meter
• It consists of a water bath containing a rotatable
shaft with radial supports.
• Rotational speed of shaft: 40 ± 2 rpm.
Centre of shaft
• The temperature of water bath which is
thermostatically controlled, varies between
different test procedures.
• The bottom of the containers being (45 ± 10) mm
from the center of the shaft.

APPATATUS

Stainless steel containers

• Diameter of (75 ± 5 ) mm 75 ± 5 mm
125 ± 10 mm

• Height : (125 ± 10) mm


• Capacity : (550 ± 50) ml

STEEL CONTAINER

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APPARATUS

Non-corrodible stainless steel Hot Plate Balance


balls ≈ 6 mm in diameter

REAGENT

Detergent with Phosphates (ECE 1993 AATCC Reference


reference detergent type B) Detergent WOB

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REAGENT

Sodium Perborate Tetra hydrate Sodium Carbonate


(If required) (If required)

APPARATUS

• Single adjacent fabric complying with ISO 105 F01 TO F07,


• Multifibre adcent fabric (DW or TV)

Note: Multifibre Adjacent Fabric:

• DW: Tests at 40 °C and 50 °C and in certain cases, to be


indicated in the test report, also at 60 °C
• TV : In certain tests at 60 °C, and in all tests at 70 °C and 95 °C

Multifibre adjacent DW and TV

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ADJACENT FABRIC SELECTION

Pairs of Adjacent Fabric


Second piece
If first piece is For tests at 40 and 50C For tests at 60 and 95C

Cotton Wool Viscose


Wool Cotton ---
Silk Cotton ---
Viscose Wool Cotton
Acetate Viscose Viscose
Polyamide Wool or Cotton Cotton
Polyester Wool or Cotton Cotton
Acrylic Wool or Cotton Cotton

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APPARATUS

• Grade 3 water,
• Non-Dye able Fabric for example,
polypropylene Net
• Grey Scale (Staining & Color Change)

Grey Scale for Staining & Color Polypropylene net


Change

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SAMPLE PREPARATION
40 ±2mm 40 ±2mm

For Fabrics:
Wool
• Cut a specimen 10cm x 4cm along the length or width
direction of the fabric.
• For multi-coloured fabrics, prints or stripes, all colours of Acrylic
the design should be included. This may require more

100 ±2mm
than one specimen being tested.
Polyester
• Avoid all specimens within 5cm of the selvedge.
• Cut a piece of multifibre 4cm wide. The multifibre has Nylon
selvedges and is approximately 10cm in length.
• Align the test specimen and multifibre and sew together
along one short edge to form a composite specimen. Cotton
• If adjacent fabric is used make it sandwich by 2 single
adjacent fabrics. Di Acetate

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TEST SPECIMEN - YARN

• Yarn may be knitted into fabric and tested in this


form. Where yarns or loose fibres are to be
tested, take a mass of the yarn or loose fibre
approximately equal to one-half of the combined
mass of the adjacent fabrics.
• Place it between 100 mm × 40mm multifibre and
non-dyeable fabric/ specified single fibre
adjacent and sew them along all four sides.

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TESTING CONDITION
Test No Temp Liquor Detergent S. P g/l Available Steel Time Adjust pH
°C Volume g/l CL % Balls (min)
A1S 40 150 4 - - 10 30 -
A1M 40 150 4 - - 10 45 -
A2S 40 150 4 1 - 10 30 -
B1S 50 150 4 - - 25 30 -
B1M 50 150 4 - - 50 45 -
B2S 50 150 4 1 - 25 30 -
C1S 60 50 4 - - 25 30 10.5±0.1
C1M 60 50 4 - - 50 45 10.5±0.1
C2S 60 50 4 1 - 25 30 10.5±0.1
D1S 70 50 4 - - 25 30 10.5±0.1
D1M 70 50 4 - - 100 45 10.5±0.1
D2S 70 50 4 1 - 25 30 10.5±0.1
D3S 70 50 4 - 0.015 25 30 10.5±0.1
D3M 70 50 4 - 0.015 100 45 10.5±0.1
E1S 95 50 4 - - 25 30 10.5±0.1
E2S 95 50 4 1 - 25 30 10.5±0.1
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SOLOTION PREPARATION

• Prepare the wash liquor by dissolving 4 g/l of


detergent with grade-3 water .
• For all C, D or E tests, adjust the pH as stated in table
by adding approximately 1 g/l of Na2Co3of solution.
• The liquor should be cooled to 20°C before the pH is
measured.
• For test where perborate is used, prepare the
washing solution by heating the liquor to a maximum
temperature of 60°C for not more than 30min.
• For tests D3S and D3M, add to the wash liquor
sufficient NaOCl or LiOCl solution to provide the
concentration of available chlorine specified in Table.

Note : A minimum volume of 1 liter of detergent


solution shall be prepared, because of possible lack of
homogeneity of the detergent powder
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TESTING PROCEDURE

• Take required volume of wash liquor in the container,


then adjust the temperature of the wash liquor to
within ± 2 ° C of the specified temperature (Except
D2S & E2S),
• Then place the specimen, together with the
specified number of steel balls in the container,
• Then Operate the machine at the temperature and
for the specified time,
• For tests D2S & E2S, place the specimen in the
container at a temperature of approximately 60 °C,
close the container and raise the temperature to
within ± 2 °C of the specified temperature in not
more than 10 min. Begin timing the test as soon as
the container is closed. Operate the machine at the
temperature and for the time specified in Table

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RINSING & DRYING

• For all tests, remove the composite specimen at


the end of the wash and rinse twice for 1 min in
two separate 100 ml portions of water at 40 °C.
• For all methods, extract the excess water from the
composite specimen.
• For all methods, dry the specimen by hanging it in
air at a temperature not exceeding 60 °C, with the
parts in contact only at the line of stitching.

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EVALUATION

• Assess the change in colour of the specimen and


the staining of the adjacent fabric using the grey
scales according to ISO 105 A02 & ISO 105 A03 or
Instrumentally (ISO 105-A04 and ISO 105-A05).

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TEST REPORTING

• Reference to this part of ISO 105 (ISO 105-C06:2010).


• Complete identification of the sample.
• The instrumental and/or numerical grey scale rating for the change in colour of the specimen
• If single-fibre adjacent fabrics were used, the instrumental and/or numerical grey scale rating for
staining of each kind of adjacent fabric used.
• If a multifibre adjacent fabric was used, the type of multifibre adjacent fabric used and the
instrumental and/or numerical grey scale rating for staining of each type of fibre in the
multifibre adjacent fabric.
• The number of the method of test used (as listed in Table 4) whether steel balls were used in
some of the A or B tests.
• Whether souring treatment in acetic acid reagent as described was conducted.
• Whether the AATCC 1993 Standard Reference Detergent WOB or the ECE Detergent with
Phosphates was used.
• Any deviation from the test method.

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02
COLOUR FASTNESS TO RUBBING
ISO 105 X12:2016

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SCOPE

• This part of ISO 105 specifies a method for


determining the resistance of the color of textiles
of all kinds to rubbing off and staining other
material.
• The method is applicable to textiles made from
all fibers in the form of yarn or fabric, including
textile floor coverings whether dyed or printed.
Two tests may be made; dry and wet rubbing
cloth.

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PRINCIPLE

• Specimens of the textile are rubbed with a


dry rubbing cloth and with a wet rubbing
cloth.
• The machine provides two combinations of
testing conditions through two alternative
sizes of rubbing finger,
one for pile fabrics;
one for solid color or large print fabrics.

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APPARATUS

Crockmeter: Cotton Rubbing cloth Grey Scale for Staining


Finger diameter: Rectangular Rubbing
Mass per unit area : According to ISO 105 A03
16 ± 0.1 mm Finger:
110± 5 g/m
Moves to and fro, 19mm X 25.4mm
Whiteness : 74± 4
Straight line track length: For pile fabrics,
pH: 7.5±1
104 ± 3 mm, including textile floor
For other fabric :
Downward force: coverings
50 X 50 mm (±2 mm)
9N ± 0.2 N For pile fabric :
25 X 100 mm (±2 mm)
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SPECIMEN PREPARATION

Fabric or textile floor covering:

• Two pieces of not less than 50 X 140 mm for each Weft


dry and wet rubbing (Length & Width direction)
• More specimen can be use for higher precision Weft
• For pile fabric, cut the specimen with the pile lay
pointing in the long direction.
Warp
Yarn:
Form a layer of parallel strands by wrapping it
lengthways on a cardboard rectangle of suitable
dimensions.
Warp

SPECIMEN PREPARATION
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CONDITIONING

Condition specimen and crocking cloth at least 4 hrs


as per ISO 139 prior to testing.
Atmosphere :
Temp - 20±2ºC &
RH - 65 ± 4 %

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TEST PROCEDURE - DRY

• Place a test specimen on the base of the crockmeter.


• Then place the rubbing cloth on the rubbing finger by
clip,
• Run the machine for 10 sec or 10 cycle by to and fro
motion,
• Open the rubbing cloth from finger and place new
rubbing cloth for another dry rubbing test,
• Condition the rubbing cloth and
• Remove fibrous material that might interfere with the
rating
• Evaluate the staining by grey scale for staining.
Tested rubbing cloth

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TEST PROCEDURE - WET

• Weight the conditioned rubbing cloth,


• Soak in grade 3 water, remove excess water and weight
again to ensure 95-100% take-up,
• Test by following the dry rubbing test.

DRYING: Air dry the test cloth & conditioning the test
cloth.

Tested rubbing cloth

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VERIFICATION

• The apparatus performance by in-house or


established rubbing specimen with three dry
rubbing tests periodically.

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ASSESSMENT

• Back each tested rubbing cloth with three layers


of white rubbing cloth while evaluating,
• Rate dry and wet crocking fastness by means of
the gray scale for staining under the suitable
illumination and record the numerical rating.

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TEST REPORT

• Reference to this part of ISO 105-X12


• State whether dry or wet crocking test
• Finger and force were used in the test
• Whether dry or wet rubbing was performed along
with the percentage of soak
• Time and atmospheric condition of conditioning
• Identification of the long direction of the
specimen mounting, i.e., warp, weft or oblique
• The numerical rating

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03
COLOR FASTNESS TO WATER
ISO 105 E01:2013

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SCOPE & PRINCIPLE

SCOPE :
This part of ISO 105 specifies a method for
determining the resistance of the colour of textiles of
all kinds and in all forms to immersion in water.

PRINCIPLE :
A specimen of the textile in contact with either two
single fiber adjacent fabrics or multifiber adjacent
fabric is immersed in water, drained and placed two
plates under a specified pressure in a test device.
The specimen and the adjacent fabrics are dried
separately. The change in colour of the specimen
and the staining of the adjacent fabrics are assessed
by comparison with the grey scale instrumentally.

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APPARATUS

Acrylic plate Oven A non-dyeable fabric


Flat-bottomed dish
(60 mmX115 mmX1.5 mm) Maintained 37 ± 2°C If Required

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APPARATUS

Perspiration tester Grey Scale for Staining & Color Multifibre


Weight piece approximately Change DW Multifiber complying F10
5 kg / pressure (12.5±0.9) kPa
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ADJACENT

• For adjacent complying F01 – F07 selection see the Table

If first piece is Second piece is to be


Cotton Wool
Wool Cotton
Silk Cotton
Viscose Wool
Polyamide Wool or Cotton
Polyester Wool or Cotton
Acrylic Wool or Cotton

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REAGENT

Grade 3 Water

Specification Of Grade 3 Water,


As complying with ISO 3696
• pH at 25°C : 5.0 to 7.5
• Electrical Conductivity : 0.5 mS/m at 25°C (milli Siemens/meter)
• Oxidizable Matter : 0.4 mg/l (max)
• Residue After Evaporation : 2 mg/kg at 110°C

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SAMPLE PREPARATION
40 ±2mm 40 ±2mm

For Fabrics:
• Cut a specimen 10cm x 4cm along the length or width Wool
direction.
• For multi-coloured fabrics, prints or stripes, all colours of
the design should be in contact with all components of the Acrylic
multifibre.
100 ±2mm

• For fabrics of different shade or fibre composition on face Polyester


and back, both sides should be tested.
• Avoid samples within 5cm of the selvedge. Nylon
• Cut a piece of multifibre 10cm x 4cm wide.
• Align the test specimens and multifibre and sew together Cotton
along one short edge to form a composite specimen.
• If adjacent fabric is used make it sandwich by 2 single
adjacent fabrics. Di Acetate

Multifibre Specimen 38

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COMPOSIT TEST SPECIMENT-FABRIC

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TEST SPECIMEN - YARN

• Yarn may be knitted into fabric and tested in


this form. Where yarns or loose fibres are to be
tested, take a mass of the yarn or loose fibre
approximately equal to one-half of the
combined mass of the adjacent fabrics.
• Place it between 100 mm × 40mm multifibre
and non-dyeable fabric/ specified single fibre
adjacent and sew them along all four sides.

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TESTING PROCEDURE

TESTING PROCEDURE
• Weight the composite Specimen.
• Liquor ratio: 50:1.
• Soaking Time: 30 min at room temperature.
• Remove the excess water by using glass rods.
• Prepare a package with 11 acrylic plates , up to 10 test specimen into the perspirometer.
• Total load 5kg or pressure 12.5±0.9 Kpa.
• Perspirometer position : Vertical or Horizontal.
• Testing temperature and time: (37 ± 2) °C for 4 hrs.
• Specimens that show signs of drying should be discarded.

DRYING
• Dry the specimen by hanging it in air at a temperature not exceeding 60°C. Separately specimen
and adjacent fabrics.
• For yarn/loose fiber remove sewing at three sides.

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EVALUATION

• Assess the change in colour of the specimen using


the ISO 105 A02 (Grey Scale for Assessing Change
in Colour) and
• Staining of the adjacent fabric using the ISO 105
A03 (Grey Scale for Assessing Staining) or
• Instrumentally according to ISO 105 A04 & ISO
105 A05

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TEST REPORT

• Numerical grey scale rating for the colour change & staining of the specimen & multifiber/
adjacent e.g.: 5,4-5,4,3-4,3,2-3,2,1-2 &1.
• A reference to this part of ISO 105 (ISO 105-E01:2013).
• All details necessary for the identification of the sample tested.
• The numerical grey scale ratings and/or instrumental assessment for the change in colour of the
specimen and Staining of the multifiber.
• Any deviation, by agreement or otherwise, from the procedure specified.

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04
COLOUR FASTNESS TO
PERSPIRATION
ISO 105 E04:2013

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SCOPE & PRINCIPLE


SCOPE:
This method is intended for determining the
resistance of the colour of textile of all kinds and in
all forms to the action of human perspiration

PRINCIPLE:
• Specimens of the textile in contact with adjacent
fabrics are treated in two different solutions
containing histidine, drained and placed between
two plates under a specified pressure in a test
device.
• The specimens and the adjacent fabrics are dried
separately.
• The change in colour of each specimen and the
staining of the adjacent fabrics are assessed by
comparison with the grey scales.
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APPARATUS

Acrylic plate Flat-bottomed dish Oven


(60 mmX115 mmX1.5 mm) Maintained 37 ± 2°C

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APPARATUS

Perspiration tester
Grey Scale for Staining & Multifibre DW
Weight piece approximately Color Change
5 kg / pressure (12.5±0.9) kPa

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APPARATUS

pH meter A non-dyeable fabric


(for example, polypropylene)
If Required

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ADJACENT
For adjacent complying F01 – F07 selection see the Table

If first piece is Second piece is to be


Cotton Wool
Wool Cotton
Silk Cotton
Viscose Wool
Polyamide Wool or Cotton
Polyester Wool or Cotton
Acrylic Wool or Cotton

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REAGENT

• Grade 3 Water,
• L-histidine monohydrochloride monohydrate
(C6H9O2N3.HCl.H2O)
• Sodium chloride (NaCl)
• Disodium hydrogen orthophosphate
dodecahydrate (Na2HPO4.12H2O) or disodium
hydrogen orthophosphate dihydrate
(Na2HPO4.2H2O)
• Sodium dihydrogen orthophosphate dihydrate
(NaH2PO4.2H2O)

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COMPOSITE TEST SPECIMEN

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TEST SPECIMEN - YARN

• Yarn may be knitted into fabric and tested in


this form. Where yarns or loose fibres are to
be tested, take a mass of the yarn or loose
fibre approximately equal to one-half of the
combined mass of the adjacent fabrics.
• Place it between 100 mm × 40mm multifibre
and non-dyeable fabric/ specified single fibre
adjacent and sew them along all four sides.

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SOLUTION PREPARATION
Perspiration Solution, freshly prepared, containing per litre of Grade 3 water,

Alkaline Solution Acidic Solution

Chemical Name Amount Chemical Name Amount


L-histidine monohydrochloride 0.5g/l L-histidine monohydrochloride 0.5g/l
monohydrate monohydrate
Sodium Chloride 5.0g/l
Sodium Chloride 5.0g/l
Disodium hydrogen orthophosphate 5.0g/l
dodecahydrate or, Or Sodium dihydrogen orthophosphate 2.2g/l
disodium hydrogen orthophosphate 2.5g/l dihydrate
dihydrate
pH 5.5±0.2
pH 8.0±0.2

Note: Adjust the pH of each solution if required by add 0.1mol/l Sodium Hydroxide
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TESTING PROCEDURE

• Weight the composite Specimen


• Liquor ratio: 50:1
• Acid and Alkaline test is done separately
• Soaking Time: 30 min at room temperature,
• Remove the excess solution by using glass rods,
• Prepare a package with 11 acrylic plates , up to 10
test specimen into the perspirometer,
• Total Load 5kg/ Pressure (12.5±0.9) kPa
• Perspirometer position : horizontal or vertical
• Testing temperature and time: (37 ± 2) °C for 4 hrs.

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DRYING PROCEDURE

Open out each composite and dry it by hanging it in air


at a temperature not exceeding 60 °C, with the two or
three parts in contact only at the line of stitching.

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ASSESSMENT & REPORTING

ASSESSMENT
• Assess the change in colour of each specimen and the staining of the adjacent fabric(s) by
comparison with the grey scales visually or instrumentally.

TEST REPORT
• A reference to this part of ISO 105 (ISO 105-E04:2013)
• All details necessary for the identification of the sample tested.
• The numerical grey scale ratings for change in colour of the specimen in each solution.
• For single-fibre adjacent fabrics : The numerical grey scale rating for staining of each kind of
adjacent fabric used
• For multifibre adjacent fabric : The numerical grey scale rating and/or instrumental assessment
for staining of each type of fibre in the multifibre adjacent fabric, and the type of multifibre
adjacent fabric used.
• The option used.

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05
ASSESSMENT OF POTENTIAL
OF PHENOLIC YELLOWING OF
MATERIALS
ISO 105 X18:2007

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SCOPE

This part of ISO 105 specifies a method for assessment


of the potential to phenolic yellowing of textile
materials.
The method is specific to phenolic yellowing and does
not cover the many other possible causes of yellow
discoloration found on textile materials.
Phenolic Yellowing:
Discoloration of textile materials caused by the
action of oxides of nitrogen and phenolic compounds,
which lead to the production of a yellow color.
Potential to phenolic yellowing:
Possibility or capability of phenolic yellowing.

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PRINCIPLE

A test package, consisting of test paper, specimen


and control fabric is-
• Firmly wrapped in BHT–free polythene bag
• Loaded in test device
• Placed in an oven/incubator under specified
time and temperature
• Allowed to cool down
• Staining of control fabric and specimens are
assessed immediately with reference to grey
scale.

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TEST SPECIMEN

• Select the specimens to represent the sample,


or as agreed between the interested parties.
• If yarn or fibre is to be tested, then take a
mass of the yarn or loose fibre that is
sufficient to form by hand a mat of material
approximately 100 mm × 30 mm.

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APPARATUS & MATERIALS

Glass plates:
Each (100±1)mm X (40±1) mm X (3±0.5)mm.
Clean the glass plates thoroughly between each test,
using a cleaner that does not leave a residue (e.g.
alcohol).
Incubator or Oven: To maintain (50 ± 3) °C.
Test device:
Consisting of a stainless-steel frame into
which a weight of mass (5 ± 0,1) kg and base of
minimum (60 × 115) mm is closely fitted.

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APPARATUS & MATERIALS

• Test Papers: (100 ± 2) mm × (75 ± 2) mm, density (88 ± 7) g/m2 at 20 °C, of > 98 % pure cellulose
treated with < 0,1 % 2,6-di-tert-butyl-4-nitrophenol to give a Grey Scale for Staining Grade 3 or
worse (i.e. 2/3, 2, etc.) on the control fabric.
Store the test papers in resealable aluminum foil packaging in a cool dry environment or conditioned
laboratory. Use within 6 months of opening.

• Control Fabric: (100 ± 2) mm × (30 ± 2) mm, white polyamide, that is known to yellow when
subjected to the test method. Store the control fabric in resealable aluminium foil packaging in a
cool dry environment.

• Butyl Hydroxytoluene free polyethylene film: Approximately 63 μm thick, measuring a minimum


of (400 ± 5) mm × (200 ± 5) mm.

• Grey scale: For assessing staining (in accordance with ISO 105-A03).

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TESTING PROCEDURE

Fold 6 test papers in half Place each specimen and Place each sandwich in
along the 100 mm axis to control fabric in each between two glass
make 6 sandwiches sandwich plates

NOTES:
1. If less than 5 specimens are being tested, use 7 glass plates in the package.
2. Ensure that for reduced number of specimens, the control fabric is still tested.

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TESTING PROCEDURE
Control Fabric
Test specimen

Complete Test
specimen

Test Papers

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TESTING PROCEDURE

Wrap the test package in Seal with adhesive tape Place the package in test
3 layers of BHT-free to create an airtight device and apply
polyethylene bag package specified pressure

NOTES:
1. Each test device can accept 3 packages, one placed on top of another

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TESTING PROCEDURE

Place the test device on


its side inside an oven Remove the package
for 16 h ± 15 min, at 50 ± from oven Allow it to cool down
3°C.

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ASSESSMENT PROCEDURE

• Assess the specimens within 30 min of opening as in


some material, colour may fade rapidly when
exposed to air
• Ensure that control fabric has yellowed to grade 3 or
lower using grey scale for staining. If control doesn’t
show any yellowing, repeat test with new specimens
• Assess staining of specimens against original
material using grey scale for staining (visual or
instrumental)

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TEST REPORT

• No. and year of publication of ISO 105 X18


• All details necessary for complete identification
of sample
• Numerical grey scale rating for staining to
express the potential of phenolic yellowness of
materials

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Q&A

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Together, we can ensure our products remain safe.

Thank You

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MD. KHAIRUL ALAM MOJUMDER


+880 1670318931
khairul.mojumder@intertek.com

www.intertek.com

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