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D y e i n g • F i n i s h i n g • P r i n t i n g • C o a t i n g
June 2009
International
Dyer
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Dyes & Chemicals Technical Textiles Putting the Squeeze on Drying Costs
2 COMMENT 22 TEXTILES & SUSTAINABILITY

• Asia’s Optimism Holds Recovery Hope
23 PREVIEW - TECHTEXTIL
4 INDUSTRY NEWS • Focus on Functionality
7 LOCAL COLOUR 24 PREVIEW - ITM

• Awake to the Need for Technology
• Putting the Squeeze on Drying Costs
• A Mill Rises from the Ashes
• Promoting Technical Innovation 26 TEXTILES & SUSTAINABILITY
10 DYES & CHEMICALS NEWS 29 RESEARCH: SILK PRINTING

• Printing the ‘Queen of Fabric’ by Sodium Alginate
12 TECHNICAL BRIEFING: PLASMA TECHNOLOGY and its Blend with Guar Gum
• Plasma Processes for Novel Treatments
33 DIGITAL PRINTING
15 TECHNICAL BRIEFING: FINISHING MACHINES • Beyond Globalisation
• Optimising Quality and Production Costs
43 PEOPLE IN THE NEWS
17 TECHNICAL BRIEFING: NOVEL EFFECTS 44 MACHINERY & SERVICES
• Novel Effects on Garments and Fabrics
45 SDC NOTES
20 TECHNICAL TEXTILES
• Advanced Textiles Partnership 49 DIARY OF EVENTS
Comment:News.qxd 06/05/2009 11:49 Page 2
International
Dyer
Editor: Comment
JOHN SCRIMSHAW
Technical Editor:
DR IAN HOLME
Rebuilding an
Assistant Editor:
BERNARD CHYZY
China Correspondent:
ZHAO HEMING
India Correspondent:
Industry by Robot
DR RAVINDRA ADIVAREKAR
North America Correspondent:
JOHN MCCURRY
Design and Production Manager:
GAVIN GIBSON
Editorial Design:
RICHARD MICALLEF
Display Advertising Sales:
DAVID JAGGER Not so many years ago, the textile industry in Europe looked like a lost cause. But it
Classified Advertising Sales:
JON BLOOM always had strength in technology and innovation, and there were some people who
Advertising Design: were not prepared to write it off.
JAY FAULKNER
Faced with the possible annihilation of an entire sector, with all the consequences that
Subscriptions:
MARGARET MARSHALL would follow in terms of loss of employment opportunities and export potential, the
Managing Director: European Union has pumped large sums into research and development to help the
MARK JARVIS
industry overcome its biggest competitive weakness, the cost of labour.
World Textile Publications Ltd. Projects go under names such as LEAPFROG (automated garment production) and
Perkin House, 1 Longlands Street
Bradford, West Yorkshire, BD1 2TP DIGITEX (digital fabric coating), and progress in these multi-agency initiatives was aired at
England a recent event in Brussels.
Tel: +44 (0)1274 378800 It is clear that the ambitions of the public-sector, commercial and academic interests
Fax: +44 (0)1274 378811 (General)
Fax: +44 (0)1274 378812 (Editorial) behind these projects is undimmed. LEAPFROG proposes to overcome a large part of the
e-mail: info@world-textile.net
Website: www.internationaldyer.com
cost differential between Europe and Asia by doing away with labour altogether,
especially in the most intensive area of garment assembly. Instead of sewing, the project
Printed in the UK by Thanet Press Ltd.,
Union Crescent, Margate, Kent, CT9 1NU proposes the jetting of thermal adhesives, which will allow robots to weld the parts
together by means of lasers.
Advertisement Sales Offices
This is no longer science fiction. Much of the basic work has been done and the
MAIN OFFICE: David Jagger,
World Textile Publications Ltd., Perkin House, researchers are now seeking a further €100 million to build a functioning production line.
1 Longlands Street, Bradford, West Yorkshire Their aim is nothing less than the repatriation of major elements of the clothing industry
BD1 2TP, United Kingdom.
Tel: +44 (0)1274 378800 Fax: +44 (0)1274 378811 from Asia to Europe.
E-mail: djagger@world-textile.net
First on the list will be the estimated 12 million nurses’ uniforms required each year in the
SWITZERLAND, GERMANY, AUSTRIA & ITALY:
Hans Rauber & Bruno Fisch region. In theory, each uniform can be individually made, using jet coating of the fabrics to
Iff Media ag, Emmersbergstrasse 1,
CH 8200 Schaffhausen, Switzerland. apply antimicrobial treatments, scanning the wearer’s body to extract their measurements,
Tel: +41 (0)52 633 0888 Fax: 41 (0)52 633 0899
E-mail: iff@iff-media.ch generating and cutting a pattern automatically, applying decorative details by inkjet printing,
JAPAN: Katsuhiro Ishii,
and assembling the finished garment by robotic welding.
Ace Media Services Inc. 12-6, 4 chome, Nishiiko Ten years from now, the image of a clothing factory may be less like the traditional
Adachi-ku, Tokyo 121-0824, Japan
Tel:0081 3 5691 3335 Fax: 0081 3 5691 3336 ‘sweatshop’ and more like the most automated car-assembly plant.
E-mail: amskatsu@dream.com
Of course, with Asia upgrading its technology rapidly and even beginning to compete in the
U.S.A: Mr Bob Moore
PO Box 4032, Cave Creek, AZ 85327-4032 USA area of technical textiles, there will always remain a question of just how long Europe can stay
Tel: +1 480 595 0494 Fax: +1 480 595 1749
E-mail: ramco@qwest.net ahead by this strategy.
INDIA: Mr Yogesh Jog,
Bridge Media, D-2/M-4, Amikrupa Housing JOHN SCRIMSHAW
Complex, B/H Sweet Home Society,
Near Shreyas Foundation, Ambawadi, Editor
Ahmedabad-15 Guajart, India.
Tel: 91-79-6622428 Fax: +91 79 656 3533
E-mail: bridge_media@yahoo.co.in
CHINA: Michael Hay

Ringier Trade Publishing, 401-405, 4F, New
Victory House, 93-103 Wing Lok Street,
Sheung Wan, Hong Kong
Tel: +852 2369-8788 Fax: +852 2869-5919
Email: mchhay@ringier.com.hk
Subscriptions (11 issues)

Worldwide £299.00
For subscription details and directory
availability, please contact Sue Pritchard at
World Textile Publications on
+ 44 (0)1274 378801.
E-mail: info@world-textile.net
Website: www.internationaldyer.com
© 2009 World Textile Publications Ltd.

ISSN 0020-658X
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News:News.qxd 05/05/2009 12:18 Page 4
Industry News
US Army Awards Fire

Protection Contract
Family Firm Wins $1 Billion Deal
Military-supplies company ADS the user, to take account of Luke Hillier. “Our soldiers are exceed $1 billion.
Inc has won a contract valued at evolving combat environments, exposed to hazardous combat ADS is a second-generation,
over US$1 billion, to deliver the and protects the soldier from conditions every day and the family-owned small business.
US Army’s new Fire Resistant head to toe. It is designed specif- FREE clothing system will The company was created in
Environmental Ensemble (FREE). ically for aviation and combat- increase soldier protection and 1979 in Virginia Beach, Virginia,
ADS will act as the integrator for vehicle crewmen, and uses survivability – which is the core as the government sales division
the 17-component protective- advanced textile technologies in a mission of our company.” of a local diving-supply centre
garment system, working with range of garments, from The US Army’s Program and catered to the Norfolk-
more than ten American technical- lightweight base layers to Executive Office, Product Virginia Beach military
garment manufacturers. weather-protecting outerwear. Manager, Clothing and Individual community. Since that time, the
FREE is designed to give soldiers “Our company has worked Equipment (PM-CIE) awarded company has widely expanded
built-in protection from flame and closely with the Army and the this indefinite delivery, indefinite its product offerings and
heat threats present in combat best garment manufacturers and quantity (IDIQ) contract, currently delivers essential
conditions, while remaining textile companies in the United consisting of a base year and operational equipment,
highly functional in a spectrum States to create this technolog- three additional option years. If combined with logistics
of cold and wet-weather climates. ically advanced protective all contract options are exercised solutions, to every branch of the
It can be adapted in the field by clothing system,” said ADS CEO the total contract value will US military and Federal agencies.
Organic Tin Ecolabel

Compounds Reform
‘Phase-Out’ Approved
The European Council of Ministers has ordered the phasing-out of
organostannic compounds within the EU over health concerns, a Reforms have been approved by the European Parliament to a revised EU-
decision that will affect textile and clothing producers. wide ecolabel system, making it tougher for clothing and textile producers
Ministers voted that, from January 2012, the use of dioctyltin to secure when using environmentally damaging chemicals.
(DOT) compounds in gloves, footwear (or a section that comes in An informal agreement with EU ministers means
touch with the skin), childcare articles, nappies, wall and floor that parliament’s April 2 decision should fast-track
coverings will be banned where the chemical’s concentration in the the changes. Another change would see a
article or part exceeds 0.1 % by weight of tin. The substance is requirement for companies to reduce animal
used as either a stabiliser a catalyst in manufacturing. testing to secure an eco-label.
Meanwhile, the use of dibutyltin (DBT) will be banned in the Textile and clothing producers are already
same concentration levels from fabrics coated with PVC from able to apply for and receive an EU
January 2015. This chemical is used as a stabiliser when making ecolabel (whose logo is a plant with a flower
such products. comprising the EU’s ring of stars), but such
A European Commission note said of the relaxed timetables: applications should be tougher in future,
“Certain producers of articles containing DOT and DBT will need although MEPs claim the new system has also
time to adapt, and an appropriate transition period should be been simplified. “The overall objective is to promote
therefore foreseen…” products with a reduced environmental impact,” said
a parliamentary communiqué.
4 INTERNATIONAL DYER
Digital Finishing at Heart of

Automation Project
€100 Million Bid for Robotic Garment Line
European researchers are seeking Commission, heard an overview of funding commitment of around productivity or flexibility. Digital
€100 million of funding to build a the wide-ranging textile-and- €220 million, of which about €150 application of chemicals and
fully automated clothing- clothing research and million is contributed by the coatings for pre-and post
production line. development work supported by European Commission through its treatments plays a key role.
The European Technology EU funding schemes and going Research Framework Much of the groundwork in the
Platform for the Future of Textiles under names such as LEAPFROG, Programmes. These projects flagship LEAPFROG project has
and Clothing held its 4th Annual DIGITEX and AVALON. range from the development and been completed and the next
Public Conference in Brussels, at As a result of the work of the application of new fibres and phase is the construction of a
the start of April. More than 220 Technology Platform, established textile materials, to innovation in working production line, in which
participants, from industry and in 2004, more than 30 collabo- production processes, targeting robots will assemble garments by
academia across Europe, as well rative textile-research projects are new functionalities, resource- means of seam welding.
representatives of the European ongoing, representing a total efficiency or radically higher ● Full report – page 33
Massive Textile Nanotech

Job Losses Divisions
An EU-funded study has confirmed the major differences between
Union Calls for industry, governments and environmentalists over nanotechnology.
Government Relief The ‘mapping study on regulation and governance of nanotech-

nologies’ involved Britain’s Institute of Nanotechnology, as well as
Over eleven million textile jobs have been lost in the past nine the Innovation Society, Switzerland, and others. It confirmed that
months and a further three million are at risk, according to the environmental and consumer groups want probes into nanosafety
sector’s international trade-union body. and a “strict precautionary approach”; industry thinks current
Neil Kearney, general secretary of the International Textile, environmental-health laws are sufficient; while governments prefer
Garment and Leather Workers’ Federation (ITGLWF), said: “In many more studies.
countries the clothing industry is the main sector of industry, and
for workers who lose their jobs in this sector the prospects of
finding alternative employment are bleak.
“The situation is particularly tragic for workers in developing
countries where there are no social safety nets. In addition, as
many as 80% of the workers involved are women and, again, the
Cartel Plea
vast majority are less than 24 years old and often the only
breadwinner in their extended family.”
Migrant workers were among the most badly affected. Bangladesh
alone has some six million migrant workers, many employed in
Rejected
The European Court of Justice has dismissed an appeal by the Archer
overseas-owned textile, garment or shoe enterprises, and their Daniels Midland Company (ADM) against a European Commission €10.13
forced return to their country would further increase pressures. million fine in 2001, for the company’s participation in a global cartel for
The ITGLWF has urged governments to take the lead in relieving sodium gluconate, a textile-bleaching admixture. The decision should bring
the crisis and preparing for recovery, providing economic, to an end a long legal battle since the Commission, in 2001, fined six
industrial and social infrastructure, including social safety nets, producers of sodium gluconate €57.53 million, for participating in a secret
and strictly enforcing legislation, particularly labour legislation. worldwide cartel between 1987 and 1995.
JUNE 2009 5
Industry News
Dye Deal
Approved
The European Commission has approved the acquisition of sole control
of American Carbon-Black dye producer Columbian Chemicals Holding
LLC by fellow US company One Equity Partners II LP, a private-equity
fund. The Commission fast-tracked approval and imposed no conditions
on the deal, which includes European Union Carbon-Black sales.
Aid for Spanish Mills

The Spanish textile and clothing the recession. This programme will
sector will benefit from a €800- finance technical research, reindus-
million subsidy plan, helping it trialisation, innovation, export
and its customers to withstand assistance and training for the
the recession. textile, clothing and related sectors
The European Commission has in Spain. It is “a comprehensive
granted approval for the scheme programme that aims to help
as the EU gatekeeper for national companies of the textile and
subsidies under the EU’s state aid clothing industry to adjust to the
regime, which has been signifi- changes in the market,” said a
cantly liberalised since the onset of Brussels note.
Sustained Ethical
Recognition
Milliken & Company, USA, has been named one of the 2009 World’s
Most Ethical Companies by the Ethisphere Institute for the third
consecutive year.
Milliken said that it earned a coveted place on the list by going beyond
legal minimums, introducing innovative ideas to benefit the public and
forcing its competitors to follow suit by consistently upping the ante for
what it takes to be an ethical leader.
“Milliken believes that operating with the utmost ethical conduct and
integrity is the personal responsibility of every associate in the company.
Their conduct benefits not only Milliken, but also our customers,
communities, associates, and shareholders,” said Milliken’s president
and chief executive, Joe Salley.
Earlier this year Milliken was named for a fifth year as one of the ‘Best
Companies to Work For’ in Fortune magazine’s annual top 100 listing.
Chinese Stimulus
The Chinese government has announced a stimulus plan to assist the
country’s textile industry. The three-year plan involves higher export-tax
rebates, the removal of obsolete capacity and investment in efficiency. As
a result, China expects the production of large textile enterprises (with
annual revenue of more than 5 million yuan or $732,000) to increase by
10% year on year.
Correspondents2:Santex Santashrink.qxd 30/04/2009 16:51 Page 7
Local Colour
Awake to the
Need for From Dr Ravindra
Technology Adivarekar, India

Correspondent
THE PAST few years have indeed been a

renaissance era for the Indian textile-
processing industry. Although textiles have
been one of the major forces in generating
revenue for the country through exports, the
thrust of rapid modernisation began around
2004-2005.
India has been known for textiles since the
days of its earliest civilisations. It enjoys a
good raw-material base in the form of cotton,
and most of the processing industry in India
concentrates mainly on the processing of
100% cotton and cotton blends, with the
exception of certain clusters that concentrate
on synthetic and wool processing.
What the industry was lacking was the
availability of the latest technologies, and this
can be considered as the main reason why
the country has been able to keep the pace
with the Western world.
Monforts Thermex at JCT, India
The Indian industry did realise that, in an
era of globalisation and the eradication of number of investments in this sector. But
quotas, it had to rapidly modernise itself with projects that were in the end of the pipeline
the state-of-the-art technologies, in order to are still moving towards implementation. This
compete with the rest of the world. Today, we “A substantial number is a temporary setback to the industry and we
have reached a level where there are a expect that the pace of investments might
substantial number of process houses of process houses are pick up in the coming 6-7 months.
equipped with the best of the technologies Active processing mills are looking at
available in the world. equipped with the sustainable solutions and are going in for
In addition, the impetus given by the value-added products to improve their
Indian government in the form of Technology best technologies” margins and to get an extra edge over global
Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS) has fuelled competition. This has led to investment in
the growth of the textile industry. TUFS was state-of-the-art dyeing and finishing
introduced by the government in April 1999, technologies. There has been a special thrust
and an interest subsidy of 5% is given to 10% capital subsidy. in the area of resin finishing and
manufacturers. Subsequently, the scheme Unfortunately, in the global financial improvement in durable-press ratings. Many
has also provided an upfront capital subsidy meltdown, banks and major financial buyers demand a durable-press rating higher
of 20% for decentralised weaving units, as institutions have slowed down the than 3, and the requirement varies between
an alternative to 5% interest compensation disbursements of loans to the textile industry
for specified processing machines, and a and this, in turn, has slowed down the Continued on page 8
JUNE 2009 7
Local Colour
A Mill Rises
from the Ashes
IN THE midst of in Rhode Island or move it to the South. The ramps up, but it is his hope that the figure will
the global South had many advantages, such as financial go much higher. So far, he says, about 90% are
recession comes assistance, labour, environmental and logistics. former employees.
an encouraging The disadvantage was it would take time. “We started very lean so we would not have
story about the to worry about meeting production levels to
resurrection of a suit staffing and the possibilty of laying people
venerable textile off if the orders did not happen as fast as we
firm in Rhode “The new Bradford had hoped. Even our industry is very soft right
Island, a state that now, but we are structured so we can survive
was once the heart will learn from the at minimal capacity levels indefinitely. We want
of the US textile to build the personnel and capacity as soon as
From John industry. old Bradford’s the market turns. Our hope is to get to pre-fire
McCurry, Bradford Printing staffing levels, running two shifts with more
North America and Finishing,
mistakes” than 200 employees.”
Correspondent which can trace its Mr Griseto says the military-uniform market is
roots to 1911, currently very difficult. Wars in Iraq and
reopened earlier this year with new ownership, Afghanistan have drained federal funding and
following a period of turmoil. For Rhode Island, a “In the end I decided to purchase the uniforms are currently less of a priority than
state with an unemployment rate of more than building and equipment from the previous munitions, fuel and body armour.
10%, Bradford’s resurrection is a particularly owner and build a new company and culture, He says the new Bradford will learn from the
good piece of news. with the intention of hiring many of the old old Bradford’s mistakes. The new company will
A devastating fire at the factory in 2007 was employees, but not their work ethic or strive for better communication between all
the first of several woes that sent the company, company culture. My chief financial officer levels and management and install many lean-
previously known as Bradford Dyeing and vice-president of operations have a stake manufacturing procedures.
Association, on a course for closing in 2008. in the company as well and are my eyes and The fire destroyed the company’s bleach
Bradford’s previous owners had some issues ears when I am not there.” house and Mr Griseto says phase two of the
with the previous labour union as well as some Bradford will continue with its traditional company’s reopening will involve building a new
environmental issues, says Nick Griseto, the market of military uniforms and equipment, bleach house.
company’s new CEO and owner. which accounts for about 95% of its business. “We have a second phase which will be state-
“He [the previous owner] eventually lost his Bradford is the largest producer of battledress of-the-art. That will start in the summer and will
will to continue with the business,” Mr Griseto uniforms to the US Department of Defense, and take a year to 18 months to complete. In
says. “I was responsible for all sales and the sole source. addition, we will be upgrading other areas of the
controlled 95% of the sales, so I decided I Mr Griseto says employment at the facility to make us more competitive and a
would do one of two things: keep the business reopened factory will reach 75 as production better place for our associates to work.”
Continued from page 7

possible ppm levels. between the resin and cellulose of the fabric,
3 and 4, depending on the fabric quality Several process routes have been adopted at temperature 150-160°C.
being finished. by the textile industry for application of resins
Conventional resins based on DMDHEU did onto cotton fabrics. b) Moist- cure process
offer these ratings, but the limitation with This batch-wise process involves pad-dry
normal DMDHEU resins is that they release a a) Pad-dry (in a stenter) followed by curing (in (maintaining moisture to a level of 10-16%,
substantial amount of formaldehyde a hotflue) varying with fabric), batching for 20-24 hours
(suspected to be a potent carcinogen). In this process sequence, the fabric is padded under atmospheric conditions, and then
Recent technologies adopt resins that are with the resin, with appropriate pick-up, and washing off, followed by top finish.
modified DMDHEUs and other resins that dried in a stenter. The dried fabric is then The above resin-finishing processes have
keep formaldehyde release to the least- taken to a curing range for crosslinking Continued on page 9
Promoting
Technical
Innovation From Zhao
Heming, China
Correspondent
FOUR NEW was the name of exchange meeting of digital-printing application had accounted for a merits, but it always has some environmental and
Chinese dyeing industry, held in Shanghai on April large share in the Western market, while China health problems, and is limited to the printing of
6-7. The name stands for ‘new material, new was in its initial stages but developing quickly. The polyester fabric.
technology, new process and new product’. Atexco VEGA system could jet 20,000 fine ink dots The CoolTrans technology presses the pattern
The meeting was jointly sponsored by China in every second, and jet the reactive, acid or from the paper onto the fabric without high
Dyeing & Printing Association (CDPA) and disperse dyes evenly on various fabrics. temperatures. It is also called wet transfer printing
Hangzhou Atexco Digital Technology Co Ltd. The Compared to traditional process, this system and has significant advantages on natural-fibre
participants included 260 representatives from could not only save energy and reduce emissions, fabrics such as cotton, wool or silk, since those
dyeing and printing enterprises, related institutes but also save a lot of water because it had no fibres mainly rely on water-soluble dyes such as
and associations. Some leading companies in this need for sizing. Jin said it only used 4% of the reactive or weak acid dyes. And it's impossible to
industry made presentations and displayed their water consumed by the traditional process. apply the sublimation-transfer printing to them.
new innovations. Through co-operation over several years with
As the co-sponsor of this meeting, Atexco external experts, NewTech made a breakthrough
brought its latest VEGA DBP high-speed digital ink-
jet printing system. Hangzhou Atexco, established
“Overseas orders in this field and launched its first CoolTrans
system in 2007, and then applied for patents.
in 1992, is a company specialised in R&D, for printed textiles Features include high-speed printing, no batch
manufacturing, sales and service support of digital variation as well as energy-saving, and it is more
inkjet- printing technology and equipment. are decreasing” eco-friendly than the traditional process. The
According to Jin Xiaotuan, the general manager of products maintain a pleasing natural-fibre hand
Atexco, in the current economic situation, overseas and meet key international standards such as
orders for printed textiles are decreasing, especially In terms of speed, the VEGA system could fastness to soaping, staining, dry and wet friction,
the traditional single-colour and single-design process 140 sq m of fabric per hour, with the perspiration and sun.
orders. The old 10,000-metre order is divided into definition of 1080dpi. The drop size and The whole situation of textile industry is still weak,
ten or more small orders, and it seems absurd to speed were regulated through computer but there is some good news from this meeting.
use traditional rotary or flat screenprinting machines software and hardware. According to latest customs data, the export value
to process orders of this size. Thus, small batches, Another highlight of this meeting was the of textiles and garments in March was US$12.146
more varieties and quick response have become the CoolTrans technology from Shanghai NewTech billion. This is $5.489 billion more than February -
core of competitiveness for textile manufacturers. Fabric Printing Co Ltd. Transfer printing has up by 82.23%; or $350 million more than last
While VEGA digital printing system fit this trend appeared in the last 50 years. It prints patterns on March, up 2.96%. This does not mean the recovery
and is replacing the traditional printing process in the fabric via a heat press, and is also called of this industry, but might give textile mills more
the 1000-metre-order business, Jin said the sublimation transfer printing. This technology has its confidence through this difficult time.

1) Padding cotton fabric with resin temperatures of 100°C, and 30% volume steam in
limitations in terms of getting DP ratings 2) Passing through a Thermex hotflue (with the circulating air-flow, allows the material to be
above 3 and also consistency within the controlled humidity and temperature finished within just 3 minutes. The special drying
same fabric lots. maintained in the chamber) for crosslinking conditions in the air/steam mixture also minimise
and drying the risk of over drying.
c) Continuous moist crosslinking process 3) Washing off Owing to the benefits offered by the
This is a novel technology offered by continuous moist crosslinking process, many
Monforts. Continuous moist crosslinking The continuous moist crosslink process provides processors in India, including Alok, Welspun,
takes care of the limitations associated with the highest ‘easy-care’ performance, together Monti (India) and Abhishek Industries, have
the above processes. The process route with optimum retention of strength properties in a adopted this state-of-the-art technology and
followed is: very short span of time. Operation with drying already started reaping the benefits. ID
JUNE 2009 9
D&C:News.qxd 01/05/2009 14:19 Page 10
Dyes & Chemicals News
Firestop
in India
Deal
UK-based flame-retardant
producer Firestop Chemicals
Limited, has signed a distri-
bution agreement with BR
Impex, of Delhi, India. Under
the terms of the agreement BR
Impex will promote and
distribute Firestop products to
the textile market in India.
The Firestop products to be
distributed include Noflan, which
is based on phosphorus
chemistry developed in Russia
and is designed to provide an
effective flame-retardant finish to
a range of substrates, including
wool and wool-blend materials,
cotton and cotton-rich blends.
Firestop’s product range for flame
retarding of polyester include:
•Firestop PFRA – a pad-dry-cure
Sawgrass Pigment Inks ‘Revolutionary’ system to give 50-wash durability.

•Firestop PESX – an exhaust
Sawgrass Technologies has head clogging, maintenance and (UV), Laundering, Wet and Dry system, applied in the dyebath to
announced the successful testing downtime associated with traditional Crocking and Perspiration. Based give 50-wash durability, used in
of its new water-based M-Textile water-based pigment inks. The one- on the test results, Sawgrass combination with Firestop PXCO
modified pigment inks by the ink-prints-all approach enables M- claims they meet the prevailing and Firestop Buffer CO.
American Association of Textile Textile to replace acid, reactive and AATCC colourfastness standards BR Impex, whose chairman is
Chemists and Colorists (AATCC). disperse dyes, which call for for a wide variety of digital textile Naresh Garg, is well-established
It says the inks, which print on steaming, washing, drying, and printing applications. and has been supplying the
both natural and man-made sometimes wastewater treatment. It says the new inks contain no Indian market since 2001.
textiles without wet post- The new inks are said to be effective hazardous air pollutants (HAPs) or Firestop chairman Jim Murray-
processing, display three-year on cotton, polyester, cotton- toxic air pollutants (TAPs) and Smith said: “We are very
outdoor durability. polyester blends, silk, nylon, wool require only 3 minutes of in-line pleased indeed to have found
Sawgrass describes the M-Textile and other natural fibres. heat fixation. They are compatible the ideal partner and we look
inks as a completely new and M-Textile ink has recently with printers including Mimaki, forward to a mutually beneficial
revolutionary category of digital undergone AATCC testing at the Roland, Mutoh, Splash of Color, co-operation in this dynamic
textile inks. It says the exclusive University of Philadelphia. Tests d.gen, ATP and Ichinose. and fast-growing market”.
binder-free formula eliminates the included Colorfastness to Light • Digital Printing – pages 33-42
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Eastern Color & Chemical Company, of Vitamin E to enhance skin softness and brush to the screen or part to be cleaned it
Providence, RI, USA, has launched Ecco health. Eastern says Ecco Additive E is made quickly reduces tackiness and viscosity that
Additive E, a specially formulated emollient from 100% biodegradable components. makes rinsing-off with a modest flow of
that can be pad-applied to fabric, to provide Another new product, Ecco Ink Cleaner WA- water extremely easy. Subsequent precipi-
a luxuriously full feel. When touched against 312 Conc, is a totally biodegradable cleaning tation in the waste stream will not occur,
the skin, it slowly releases the antioxidant medium for plastisol inks. When applied by says Eastern.
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Plasma:Santex Santashrink.qxd 05/05/2009 14:51 Page 12
Technical Briefing: Plasma Technology
Plasma
Processes for
By Dr Ian Holme,
Technical Editor
Novel Treatments
Environmentally friendly method of applying functional textile coatings
THE USE of plasma processes in the textile demands of the process. Aqueous-based Because plasma treatments are carried out
industry has advanced relatively slowly since processes generate a pollutional load in the on air-dry textile materials, plasma processes
Irving Langmuir first used the term plasma wastewater from the process, leading to are claimed to be energy-efficient and economic
in 1928. However, over the last decade increased costs for effluent treatment and alternatives to conventional aqueous-based
much accumulated research and disposal. In addition the removal of water from processes, the current major method of
development has been carried out that textile materials is energy-intensive. Normally, as processing, referred to as textile wet processing.
offers considerable advantages for many much water as possible is removed by During plasma treatment the textile remains
types of treatments currently attained by mechanical dewatering processes such as dry, avoiding the need for costly thermal drying,
energy-intensive wet processing1-3. centrifugal hydroextraction, open-width while, in addition, no water has to be supplied
Plasma processing offers opportunities for mangling, or vacuum extraction. and softened and no wastewater is generated
the production of innovative finishes that may The greater the volume of the capillary from the plasma treatment. Thus plasma
be applied to one side, or alternatively both spaces within the textile structure, and the treatments offer economic and ecological
sides, of a fabric. Suitably constructed plasma greater the weight per unit area of the textile, advantages, as well as offering dyers, printers
units can also be configured to treat individual the more difficult it is to remove water by and finishers opportunities for exploiting
garments or footwear, opening up a host of mechanical means. The retention of water by innovative approaches to producing novel
opportunities for branding and marketing. the textile after dewatering also increases the effects, in some cases impossible to obtain
The major advantage of plasma treatments is greater the proportion of hydrophilic fibres through conventional wet processing. Plasma
that they offer a dry alternative method of present because such fibres exhibit a high treatments are also generally regarded as more
processing textile materials. Solvent-based fibre-saturation value. The removal of the environmentally friendly than conventional
machinery uses organic solvents that are much water retained in the material after mechanical textile wet processing treatments1,2.
more costly than water and the machinery must dewatering can thus only be accomplished by Dr Guy Buyle (CenTexBel, Ghent, Belgium),
incorporate a solvent-recovery system that must the application of thermal energy, generally by who has been actively involved in the ACTECO
be highly effective in order to meet the using hot air, or alternatively radio-frequency or project (Eco efficient activation for hyperfunc-
necessary economic and environmental microwave heating. tional surfaces), a European FP6-funded project
with 25 partners in eight countries, has
Table 1: Types: Gas Pressure Viewpoint admirably summarised the advantages of
various types of plasma processes according to
Gas Pressure + - the gas pressure used (see Table 1)4. For fabric
Uniformity Batch processes treatments at widths of 1.5 metres upwards, it
Low (~0.01kPa)
Flexibility Expensive equipment is easier to operate plasma treatments under
atmospheric pressure. Low-pressure plasma
Uniformity Batch process OR
Subatmospheric (~1kPa machines require strong pumps to remove the
Flexibility Expensive equipment large amount of air trapped in the machine and
In-line Influence environment within the fabric, while, in addition, the presence
Atmospheric (~100kPa) of water in the fibres extends the processing
High speed Less flexible
time to reach the low-pressure region5.
> Each pressure has advantages (and disadvantages) Atmospheric-pressure working enables
plasma treatments to be combined with
Source : G Buyle Innovation in Textiles 2009 : Smart, Nano and Technical Textiles for Medical, Industrial and Clothing
Applications (IoN, London, 18-19 March, 2009). spraying or aqueous aerosols and can be
carried out in-line. By contrast, the low-

pressure plasma treatments must be carried Table 2: Types: Substrate Viewpoint
out under batch conditions, because no Substrate
satisfactory seal design for the machine has Geometry Uniformity Scale upwidth ?
Thickness
yet evolved to allow continuous entry/exit of
Corona Line < 10mm
- +
the fabric whilst maintaining the low pressure
(µdischarges)
required for plasma treatment5. Atmospheric
plasma equipment is also less expensive to DBD(Dielectric Barrier
Plane < 20mm
-/+ -/+
Discharge) (µdischarges)
purchase and maintain than low-pressure
plasma equipment. Glow discharge Plane < 15mm + -
Dr Buyle has summarised the effectiveness of
four types of plasma with respect to the Plasma jet Line No limit + -/+
geometry, substrate thickness, uniformity and
scale-up width (see Table 2)4. However, plasma > Scale up to uniform plasma for thick(er) substrates not evident
processes operate at the substrate surface so
Source : G Buyle Innovation in Textiles 2009 : Smart, Nano and Technical Textiles for Medical, Industrial and Clothing
that physical or chemical modification of a fabric
Applications (IoN, London, 18-19 March, 2009).
is limited to the top surface layer, leaving the
bulk properties of the fibres unaffected under
normal treatment conditions.
Plasma treatments can be divided into two
main groups4, namely ‘removal’ (or degradative
surface treatments), such as:
• Cleaning
• Etching
• Sterilisation
and also ‘addition’ treatments of various

types, eg.
• Activation: (temporary) increase of surface

energy
• Functionalisation: (permanent) introduction
of chemical groups
• Deposition/coating Ahlbrandt Coating Star - system used to nebulise precursors
There are many potential areas of exploitation nano-silver coatings The plasma treatment of fibre surfaces can be
for plasma processes that have been studied. • Application of flame-retardant finishes used for removal of surface contaminants such
Typical applications for textiles include1,2,4: • Production of shrink-resist finishes for wool as natural impurities (eg. waxes) or applied
fabrics impurities (eg. sizes). Ablation/cleaning
• Imparting hydrophilic properties to synthetic • Sterilisation treatments processes can also modify the physical surface
fibres, eg. polypropylene and polyester • Fabric pretreatment to aid the removal of structure of the fibres by erosion of polymeric
• Imparting ultra-hydrophobic properties, eg. impurities from the fibre surface, eg.desizing. materials. In addition, functionalisation of the
water-repellent, oil-repellent and self- surface layers with chemical groups that can act
cleaning finishes Important developments for the future in as reactive sites for subsequent dyeing, printing
• Increasing the adhesion of coatings to plasma technologies will depend upon plasma- or finishing could also lead to improved
fabrics polymerisation processes6. Typical among adhesion in coating/lamination treatments1,2,4.
• Pretreatment for printing, eg. as an these are: The application of polymers, ceramic
alternative to wet chlorination of wool for materials, metals and glass/diamond-like
conventional screenprinting, and for digital • Cold-plasma discharge synthesis of new coatings could thus be greatly enhanced, with
inkjet printing of fabrics polymeric structures to impart novel effects greater resistance to abrasion in the end use.
• Enhancing the dyeability of fabrics by surface to the fibre surfaces Fortunato et alia7 have pointed out that fibres
treatments, eg. introduction of functional • Plasma-induced polymerisation processes may thus be coated with functional polymers
groups or nanoporous coatings directly on the fibre surface and coatings in which there is a gradient within
• Modifying the electrical conductivity of • Surface grafting of polymers the coating, leading to variable properties across
fabrics for antistatic finishes or for use in • Modification of the fibre surface to accept the coating thickness. Multilayer coatings are
wearable technologies the deposition of polymers and reaction with also possible, to produce appropriate optical or
• Application of anti-microbial finishes, eg. the fibre surface diffusion properties. In other treatments barrier
JUNE 2009 13
Technical Briefing: Plasma Technology
Table 3: Oleophobic process for polyester fabric: comparison of environmental impact

Global Warming Potential Acidification of ground, Photochemical Ozone
Treatment (kg CO2) air, water (g eq. SO2) Creation (g C2H4) Eutrophication (g PO43-)
Plasma 0.4 1.22 0.19 0.26

Traditional 1.67 2.36 2.81 0.76
Source : G Buyle Innovation in Textiles 2009 : Smart, Nano and Technical Textiles for Medical, Industrial and Clothing Applications (IoN, London, 18-19 March, 2009).
protective coatings may be applied, with structure forms a barrier for a gas containing A recent comparison of the environmental
enhanced durability to abrasion, washing, etc. plasma-created species, thereby resulting in an impact of applying an oleophobic finish to
In composite materials the interface ‘edge effect’. It was concluded that a useful polyester fabric via plasma and by traditional
between the fibres and the matrix is critical in empirical approach was to use the ratio of the wet processing has been carried out4. The
determining the mechanical/chemical porosity of the textile structure to its thickness results are illustrated in Table 3. Lifecycle-
properties of the material2. Plasma in determining the extent of this ‘edge effect’. analysis studies of the energy use have
treatments have been shown to improve the Thus, for structures with a high confirmed that the plasma process uses only
performance of composite materials in terms porosity/thickness ratio, the flow of electrical one third of the energy used in traditional
of their interlaminar shear strength, resistance current through the pores of the textile is easy wet application.
to fatigue, delamination and corrosion. during forced-gas-flow treatments8. This Clearly there is still much research and
Enhanced reactions in the interphase can results in optimal transfer of plasma power development work to be done if the optimum
include a plasma-induced increase in the throughout the total textile volume. The results are to be obtained from plasma
bonding surface via micropitting and efficiency of the plasma treatment is further processes. However, plasma may be regarded
mechanical interlocking, as well as by a improved by gas-flow constriction, which as a dry, green process compared with
change in the surface chemistry. Such creates high gas velocities in between the traditional textile wet processing and its
performance enhancements are also likely to fibres and yarns. Thus, the efficiency for forced potential for exploitation in the textile and
be noted in textile coating and laminating flow is higher than for free flow, in which clothing industries is now under active study in
operations, where adhesion of the coating or species penetration occurs by diffusion and the a number of research and development
laminated foil to the textile is crucial to current flow occurs along the surface and centres worldwide.
attaining the highest levels of operational edges rather than through the textile structure. * The last edition of International Dyer
performance in the end use. However, in textiles with a low contained a report on the conference of the
Verschuren and Kiekens have studied the porosity/thickness ratio, etching can occur only Institute of Nanotechnology. The proceedings
flow of gas around and into textile structures at the surface of the structure because the of the conference are now available online at
while they are treated (etched) in a plasma at penetration of the plasma-created species is www.nano.org.uk, priced at GB£150. ID
reduced pressure8. It has been found that, difficult, so that the treatment efficiency in
even under reduced pressure, the textile dense structures is lower8. References
1. R. Shishoo, (ed) Plasma technologies for
textiles (Woodhead Publishing Ltd,
Abington, UK: 2007).
2. R. Morent, N. De Geyter, J. Verschuren, K.
De Clerck, P. Kiekens and C. Leys, Non-
thermal plasma treatment of textiles,
Surface and Coatings Technology 202,
Issue 14 (15 April 2008) 3427-3449.
3. I. Holme, Int Dyer 192 (5) (2007) 7.
4. G. Buyle, Conference presentation,
Innovations in Textiles 2009: Smart, Nano
and Technical Textiles for Medical,
Industrial and Clothing Applications (IoN,
London, 18-19 March 2009).
5. T. Stegmaier, A. Dinkelmann, V. von Arnim
and A. Rau, in reference 1, 129.
6. U. Vohrer, in reference 1, 202.
7. G. Fortunato, F.A. Reifler, R. Hutenus,
M. Halbeisen, A. Ritter, D. Hegemann and
M. Amberg, Conference presentation
(Reference 4).
8. J. Verschuren and P. Kiekens, AUTEX
Research Journal, 5, No 3, September 2005.
Ahlbrandt Coating Star placed in-line in the textile finishing line
Benninger:Santex Santashrink.qxd 30/04/2009 16:21 Page 15
Technical Briefing: Finishing Machines
Optimising Quality
and Production Costs
Jürgen Ströhle, of Benninger AG, Switzerland, considers opportunities
for modernising existing finishing machinery
WITH THE increasing pressures resulting

from the current global economic crisis,
pressure is also increasing in all areas of
the manufacturing industry.
This applies particularly to the textile
industry. Suppliers in strongly contested
markets around the world need to be able
to rely longer and more heavily on state-
of-the-art production equipment.
However, this does not mean always
buying new machines. Benninger offers to
selectively modernise parts of an existing
installation, as this only requires a modest
financial investment yet still brings a plant
right up to date again – thus restoring its
competitive edge.
The process of finishing textiles has
always been one of the most important
links in the production chain. Textile-
finishing installations have to be perfect –
seconds are no good to anybody any
more. This is why it is necessary to keep
modifying existing machinery in order to
keep up with latest developments.
Modernisations
Modernising existing machinery does not Benninger IMPACTA
necessarily mean that it has to be
replaced with the latest model. This also
applies to Benninger machines and instal- Enlargement of existing washing zones process, maximum liquor application with
lations for textile finishing. In many cases, By enlarging the existing washing zones an IMPACTA dosing unit in single-stage
with the aid of carefully modified with EXTRACTA washing compartments, bleaching systems can save up to 30% in
components, the performance of existing the productivity or effectiveness of the terms of chemicals and 50% in terms of
installations can be significantly improved washing process can be improved. In the steam, water and personnel costs. In the
– with a relatively modest budget. In the process, the pre- and post-washing stages process, the residual liquor amount is
process, these components are carefully can be omitted, which in turn has a reduced by 80% over conventional impreg-
matched to the existing installations, so positive impact on water consumption. nating vats. It is therefore a good option
conversions can be performed efficiently to convert existing bleaching systems by
and with relatively ease. Maximum liquor pick-up application for fitting an IMPACTA unit, which is a
The following components and process single-stage bleaching successful way to implement the single-
steps can be improved through retrofits: In comparison to a 2-stage bleaching stage process.
JUNE 2009 15
Benninger:Santex Santashrink.qxd 30/04/2009 16:22 Page 16
Technical Briefing: Finishing Machines
Water dosing further competitive advantages thanks to reproducible fabric transport in which
Water is an expensive resource. Water the reduced process costs: just-in-time the tension can be monitored and
dosing in l/kg instead of allowing preparation, increased process reliability, creasing can be avoided. This makes
unregulated water consumption will result no need for manual preparation and the technology perfect for elastic fabrics
in significant water and steam savings, as hazardous handling, plus labour time as well.
the amount of water added to the system savings and high flexibility are just the
is a function of the throughput of fabric. most important of the many advantages of Perforated rollers
automatic lye control. Installing perforated rollers on machines
New drive like the DL steamer, instead of a 3-roll
State-of-the-art drives offer only Wear-free single AC motor drives traction unit with a lay-on rubber roller,
advantages: a modern AC drive, controlled Retrofits from friction-clutch drives to offers two key advantages: controlled
and reproducible fabric tension, reliable state-of-the-art single AC motor drives are fabric transport due to no slippage in the
services and replacement-part availability available for any EXTRACTA washing steamer, and there is none of the wear
all help to optimise processes. EFF1 machine type LE. In contrast to associated with rubber rolls.
motors can also be fitted as an option. mechanical transmission drives with
many individual components, modern Drive and control system
Lye control individual motors do not have wearing The entire scope of automation offers
Efficient, automatic lye control offers components. The AC drive delivers a major further potential for bolstering
competitive strength. Here, the genuine
replacement parts are pre-configured for
Benninger installations.
Controlled pick-up and maximum

squeezing off
A finishing padder equipped with the
world-renowned S-roller technology for
controlled liquor pick-up and maximum
dewatering offers further advantages:
controlled and adjustable liquor
application is possible with a system
that is suitable for integration in any
stenter frame, whether old or new. Further
advantages include maximised dewatering
and therefore savings of up to 30% in
terms of the energy required for drying.
With the aid of nip technology,
performance can be improved further in
any type of stenter frame. Thanks to this
nip technology, residual liquor is reduced
by 80% on the finishing padder equipped
with S-rollers. This is particularly
important for modern and expensive nano
applications. It goes without saying that
the system features controlled and
adjustable liquor application.
Pre-washing units for optimised

production
The FORTRACTA pre-washing unit for
surface contamination is a completion for
any existing textile-finishing machine, to
optimise production results (see
illustration) by removing more than 50% of
the dirt. The low-maintenance pre-
washing compartment significantly
improves production, whilst also reducing
Benninger FORTRACTA pre-washing units can be added to any existing textile-finishing machine for major consumption of water and steam at the
optimisation of the production results. same time. ID
Sarex:Santex Santashrink.qxd 05/05/2009 12:20 Page 17
Technical Briefing: Novel Effects
Novel Effects on
Garments and Fabrics
By Dr Naresh M. Saraf and Dr Ashok G. Sabale, of Sarex, India
CLOTHING IS one of the three basic needs
of the human species. This basic need is
transitioned into a demand when it is
directed to a specific type of clothing.
Fashion demands are the driving force behind
garment-manufacturing units.
Garment processing is an emerging
technology, which involves first making
garments and then imparting aesthetic qualities.
Value-addition has gained overwhelming
Fig.1: Localised application of Saracrease PW
popularity due to the fashion world’s taste for a
distressed and worn-out look. It allows substan-
tially higher earnings in relation to the cost of
imparting the effect, which may be either
functional or aesthetic.
In many cases, the garment may not look
desirable or attractive if it remains untreated.
Aesthetic value-addition by the application of
a fashion treatment or ornamentation
attracts the immediate attention of
consumers, making a garment more
appealing. This kind of value-addition is Fig.2: Localised application of Potassium Permanganate
governed by the latest ‘trends’ and provides
a differentiator from competing products.
The global demand for these treatments has
created a very healthy atmosphere for the
growth of garment processing, which can
include the fading of particular portions of a
garment, distressed or worn-out looks, stone-
washed soft handle, creasing, vintage, etc.
As the competition increases, there is a
need to implement newer technologies that
Fig.3: Fabric after treated with Helar PPN
will give better results. We at Sarex are
experimenting with fabric and garment
details, including embellishments in order to resins or melamine resins, it imparts naturally garment, whereas for localised fading or
add value to garments. soft and sharp creases without altering tone bleaching highlights, the preferred product,
change or patch/ring formation after drying and potassium permanganate, is applied by spray,
Stylistic Feature: Permanent curing. Finishing with Saracrease PW is durable brush or any other suitable technique.
Crease (Wrinkle) to multiple home launderings, with minimal Potassium permanganate has the potential of
Saracrease PW has been developed to achieve impact on tear/tensile strength. achieving dazzling-white bleach effects but
desirable localised creases on any portion of the suffers from the yellow-brown stains of residual
garment, to satisfy the casual and used look, Sparkle Spray: Potassium manganese oxides. These yellow-brown stains
which is the rage among modern youth. Permanganate Neutraliser need to be neutralised/eliminated to get the
It is specifically designed to impart soft Generally, bleaching of denim garments is effect of white discharge. Eliminating
wrinkles at any desired location on a garment, carried out using sodium or calcium manganese oxides using conventional
as shown in Figure 1. Unlike conventional glyoxal hypochlorite to achieve fading of the entire bisulphites, metabisulphate blends or other
JUNE 2009 17
Technical Briefing: Novel Effects
inorganic products is a cumbersome, polluting delayed yellowing. The product is also available is in high demand. Put simply, it involves the
and smelly affair due to the odours of sulphur. in a form of a 100% powder. Helar PPN (Conc) differential discolouration of different parts the
Helar PPN, developed by Sarex, is an is easily dilutable to the required strengths. fabric structure in denim and other garments.
extremely effective permanganate neutraliser, Sarafinish OMP is a unique formulation to
which simplifies elimination of yellow-brown Contrast Magic Wash create special effects on denim and non-
stains in a single wash, without any of the Sarafinish OMP is an innovative product to denim garments, either alone or by using
problems indicated above. Garments treated achieve a variety of aesthetically appealing thermocol balls for mechanical abrasion on
with Helar PPN (Figure 2) display bright-white effects on all kinds of textile substrates and the surface of the garment.
discharge effects without tendering or onset of garments. It gives a certain fashion look, which Sarafinish OMP achieves these fashion effects
in an essentially dry (water-free) garment
a b c processing sequence. It works on the unique
principle of microscopic localised bleaching of
the very upper surface of the textile, leaving the
lower and middle portions totally unaffected –
as a result of which the textile exhibits a
superbly contrasted effect, highlighting the
colour difference between the faded top and
unaffected lower portion of the substrate.
This principle allows exotic effects on pile
fabrics, corduroys, ribbed jerseys, terry towels
(Figure 4), carpets, etc. Some of these effects
are popularly known as French frost, white wash,
ice wash, snow wash, or acid wash. Apart from
these effects, Sarafinish OMP can create the
cracked look, black sky look, bright white look,
d e f etc. The advantage of Sarafinish OMP is that it
Fig.4: a,b,c: Dyed Terry towel before treatment with Sarafinish OMP; can be used for denim garments as well as non-
d,e,f: Dyed Terry towel after treatment with Sarafinish OMP denim garments such as fleece, T-shirts, etc.
These novel effects can be imparted by the
following two methods:
Ball Blast Effect: This effect can be
achieved by filling the drum washer to 3/4
capacity with thermocol balls of varying sizes.
The balls are wetted out with a little water
before loading in the machine. Sprinkle 1-5%
Sarafinish OMP on these wet thermocol balls
and rotate the drums for 5-10 minutes, for
even distribution of Sarafinish OMP. Load the
a b c d e machine with desized dry garments and treat
for 10-15 minutes, depending upon the effect
Fig.5: a. NaOCl (80g/l) and Sarableach BBA (0.5%) for 15 min., b. NaOCl required. Unload and treat the garments with
(80g/l) and Sarableach BBA (0.5 g/l) for 7.5 min., c. NaOCl (80g/l) for 30 min., mild peroxide or sodium hydrosulphite to
d. NaOCl (80g/l) for 15 min., e. Desized Denim remove traces of Sarafinish OMP.
Ocean Wash Effect: Wet out the garments
with water and tumble in a tumble drier without
heat to achieve 65% pick up of water uniformly
on the garments. Add 30-40% Sarafinish OMP
on weight of dry garments and tumble for 8-15
minutes to obtain the required effect. Unload
and rinse the garment to remove traces of
Sarafinish OMP. Best results are obtained by
washing with 1% hydrogen peroxide 50%, pH
10-10.5 at room temperature for 10-15
minutes, followed by rinsing at 60°C for 2
a b c d
minutes. Carry out soaping with Saralan Jet LF
0.5% at 80-85°C for 10-15 minutes, followed by
Fig.6: a. NaOCl (40g/l) and Sarableach BBA (01g/l) for 40 min., b. NaOCl (40g/l) and
Sarableach BBA (0.5g/l) for 30 min., c. NaOCl (80g/l) for 30 min., d. Desized Denim rinsing. Garments can then be treated with a
required tint and/or softener.
Bleach Bath Accelerator

Sarableach BBA is a unique, highly active bleach-
bath accelerator for hypochlorite bleaching of
denim garments or other cotton substrates, to
produce rapid fading or localised special effects.
Sodium hypochlorite or calcium hypochlorite is
used as a bleaching agent to achieve wash-
down effects ranging from bright look to ice-
wash look. As is known, bleaching with
hypochlorite follows the equation below:
_
a b c
NaOCl + H20 Na+ + OCl
_ _
Fig.7: a. Biopolishing with 0.5% Sarakol BSA, b. Biopolishing
OCl + H20 HOCl + OH without Sarakol BSA, c. Grey
Note that hypochlorous acid (HOCl) is the
active bleaching agent.
Sarableach BBA catalyses the above reaction
dramatically (more than five times). This
increase allows the following advantages:
(a) Due to the catalytic action of Sarableach

BBA, production time can be reduced by
50% (Figure 5). Thus it is possible to double
production with the same capacity. For
localised effects, Sarableach BBA can be a b c
applied on desized garments, using spray,
brush or other applicators; air dry and bleach
as usual, followed by antichlor treatment.
Fig.8: a. Biopolishing with 0.5% Sarakol BSA, b. Biopolishing
(b) While maintaining the level of fading or
without Sarakol BSA, c. Grey
wash-down effect, Sarableach BBA
substantially reduces the required localised bleached effect similar to sand during the treatment may cause ‘backstaining’
concentration of hypochlorite (Figure 6), blasting, without fabric damage. or ‘re-deposition’ onto the denim material, eg.
leading to a lower effluent load, less- In the case of calcium hypochlorite, which re-colouration of the blue threads and blue
aggressive garment-processing environment is slower in action compared to sodium colouration of the white threads, resulting in less
and more reproducible or predictable hypochlorite, treatment time can be reduced contrast between the blue and white threads.
bleaching. by half by the addition of Sarableach BBA. This tinting reduces the contrast between
Sodium hypochlorite solution, which has low the dyed warp and the undyed weft in the
The above advantages, while important for stability and may decompose during storage, denim garment, while the tinted pocketing
conventional garments, become extremely can still be used at lower concentration leads to shabby appearance. To prevent such
critical for denims in blends with Tencel without affecting its performance. loose dyes in the wash liquor from depositing
garments, because Tencel and Lycra are on the garment, special auxiliaries are used –
extremely sensitive to hypochlorite, which Anti-Backstaining namely anti-backstaining agents or dye-
conventionally would have led to strength loss All wet processing stages for denim transfer inhibitors.
and reduced elasticity (under normal garments, such as desizing, fading or Sarex has developed a concentrated
bleaching conditions). upbraiding and biopolishing, lead to release product, Sarakol BSA, in 100% powder form,
For garments containing Lycra and Tencel, the of indigo or sulphur dye, which tints/stains specially formulated to avoid backstaining of
concentration of sodium hypochlorite can be the white pocketing material (cotton or labels and pockets during processing of indigo-
reduced by almost 50%, with reduced effluent polycotton) as well as the undyed weft yarn dyed denim garments. Also, Sarakol BSA is
quantity and without affecting the end results. of the denim fabric. compatible with all the enzymes used and can
Due to low concentration of sodium By wet processing of denim, the usually blue- be added in desizing of denim garments, or
hypochlorite in bleaching with Sarableach BBA, dyed denim is given a faded or worn during acid-cellulase and neutral-cellulase
degradation of Lycra and Tencel is prevented. appearance, with the characteristic white and treatment for colour fading.
Localised application of Sarableach BBA blue contrast. Wet processing the denim Thus, treatment with Sarableach BBA
on desized denim garments, as well as material typically involves the use of amylase, (Figures 7 and 8) can result in a decreased
garments dyed with sulphur and selected pumice stone and cellulase and results in the number of washes, thereby increasing produc-
reactive dyes, followed by drying and removal of dye to give areas of lighter colour. tivity and decreasing the consumption of water
bleaching with hypochlorite, can produce The dye removed from the denim material and chemicals, including surfactants. ID
JUNE 2009 19
Technical Textiles:News.qxd 06/05/2009 09:12 Page 20
Technical Textiles
Coated Membrane for Propex

Emerges
New Cricket Venue from
Bankruptcy
Dubai stadium gets TiO2-topcoat Propex Inc, a US-based global
supplier of polypropylene fabrics
Birdair Inc, a contractor of and fibres for the geosynthetic,
lightweight long-span roofing concrete, furnishings and
systems and tensile structures, has industrial markets, has emerged
completed construction supervision from bankruptcy.
of the S3 Cricket Stadium in Dubai, During its 14 months under
United Arab Emirates. Chapter 11 protection the
Built using a fibreglass-woven, PTFE company right-sized its balance
membrane with a TiO2-topcoat, sheet, restructured its debt and
Cricket Stadium will become part of created additional cash flow.
Dubai Sports City – the world’s first Propex’s assets were
purpose-built sports city. purchased by a fund managed
Spectators at Cricket Stadium will by Wayzata Investment
benefit from the TiO2-coated fabric’s Partners, a Minneapolis-based
high degree of translucency, which private-equity firm. The
shades yet allows natural light to filter company is emerging from
Spectators at the S3 Cricket Stadium, Dubai, are protected from the elements by
through the fabric membrane 20,000 square metres of architectural fabric membrane. bankruptcy with a strong
structure, offering protection from foundation and sufficient
adverse weather conditions. light transmittance and solar shading architectural fabric membrane liquidity to aggressively
The PTFE coated woven fibreglass properties, which is said to make it tensioned over it. expand its market leadership,
membrane is durable and weather an ideal choice for sporting venues. TiO2-coated fabric membrane was said Wayzata.
resistant, capable of withstanding Taiyo Middle East (TME) was selected for Cricket Stadium because “We are excited about the
temperatures from -100°F to awarded the roofing portion of the of the minimal maintenance required opportunity to work with
+450°F. It is also waterproof, flame project in late 2006 and hired to keep the fabric looking new. Wayzata going forward to grow
resistant, and immune to UV rays, Birdair, whose essential project role “The TiO2 coating adds the ability the Propex business,” Propex’s
claims Birdair. consisted of membrane and for the membrane to self-cleanse executive vice-president and
TiO2 is a non-toxic coating that supporting steel frame utilising natural resources, such as chief operating officer, Stan
actively neutralises airborne construction supervision. sunlight and natural rain water,” said Brant, said in a statement.
pollutants and odours and self-cleans Construction began in October Ahmad Dalain, TME director of “We have made great strides
by breaking down organic materials. 2007. Birdair contractors have now projects. “This makes TiO2-coated in our restructuring to
Along with its low maintenance completed the installation of the PTFE the best choice for long life reposition this company as the
requirements and design flexibility, 600-ton structural steel truss system structures, as there is a minimum premiere supplier of
TiO2-coated membrane offers natural with 20,000 square metres of cleaning cost. Previously, the polypropylene fabrics and
necessity to frequently clean fabric fibres. Even in the current
membranes as part of their economic climate, our new
maintenance was a shortcoming. capital structure makes Propex
However, now with TiO2, this is no a stronger company that is
longer a concern.” focused on growth in our
The venue’s roofing system was current markets as well as
completed on budget and on time expanding into new ones,”
but, as construction supervisor, he added.
Birdair overcame challenges including Propex Inc. voluntarily filed for
an intricate steel geometric design protection under Chapter 11 of
consisting of several curved and long the U.S. Bankruptcy Code on
steel trusses. January 18, 2008. The company
The 25,000-seat stadium, has continued to operate under
expandable to 30,000 seats, will the supervision of the
maintain facilities to accommodate Bankruptcy Court throughout
players, match officials, VIPs, the Chapter 11 process.
The membrane’s TiO2-coating is non-toxic, actively neutralises airborne pollutants and
odours, and self-cleans by breaking down organic materials. spectators and the media.
Advanced Textiles Partnership

Plasma Project to Modify Nonwovens
The Institute of Environmental and Human as making a fabric more or less absorbent. pioneered the use of atmospheric plasma in a
Health (TIEHH) at Texas Tech University, USA, is Before, this treatment could be carried out number of industries, including textiles, during
partnering with Enercon Industries Corp to only at low pressure, which was not feasible the last decade.
develop technology to advance the functionality commercially in the industry. Recently, “Success with enhancing the wettability and
of nonwovens and technical textiles. atmospheric pressure plasma technology had dyeability of textiles is well-proven,” Mr Wolf
Seshadri Ramkumar, an associate professor in been developed in which the plasma said. “Texas Tech’s leading-edge material
the Nonwovens and Advanced Materials treatment could be achieved in normal expertise will allow us to apply and advance our
Laboratory of TIEHH, said the partnership atmospheric pressure. technology for even greater surface
sought to explore the opportunities of commer- “We are very excited at the possibilities of functionality of industrial fabrics.”
cialising atmospheric-plasma technology in the working with Enercon,” Mr Ramkumar said. Texas Tech’s Nonwovens and Advanced
nonwovens and specialty-fabrics industry, to “Initial lab trials indicate that Enercon’s Materials Laboratory at TIEHH focuses on
make apparel-grade nonwovens and other atmospheric-plasma technology improves a fundamental and applied research activities to
value-added fabrics, such as liquid-repellent nonwoven fabric’s breathability by as much as develop sophisticated materials that help with
fabrics and breathable protective fabrics. 95%, which is a welcoming result for exploring improving human health and the environment.
Plasma technology is a surface-modification atmospheric plasma for a number of value- Most recently, a non-particulate nonwoven
treatment technique to modify the surface of added applications.” decontamination wipe, which has applications
the materials. Mr Ramkumar said this made it Rory Wolf, Enercon’s vice-president of in military and homeland security, came out of
suitable for various desired applications, such business development, said his corporation has TIEHH’s nonwoven research.
Biofront
Car Seat Falke Shirt Gains ‘Red Dot’
Fabric Falke’s Fremont charcoal shirt has
been honoured with a ‘red dot’
A car seat fabric made entirely of design award.
Teijin’s Biofront, a green The new running shirt is based on
bioplastic produced almost a natural material: a polyester
completely from plant-based fibre, with embedded charcoal
feedstock, is used in the new (carbonated bamboo). The high-
Mazda Premacy Hydrogen RE tech material ensures excellent
Hybrid vehicle. moisture management and
The 100% Biofront seats absorption, thus preventing
incorporate an upgraded version unpleasant odours, says the
of a fabric co-developed by Teijin company.
Fibers and Mazda in autumn This effect is increased by an
2007. The new version offers open-mesh structure that further
improved texture and quality, enhances breathability. At the
thanks to the fabric's optimised same time, the very light material
structure and enhanced emits a subtle infrared radiation
dyeing/finishing processing, that has a warming effect,
improvements that have further thereby improving blood
upgraded the fabric's suitability as circulation - something that
a mass-produced material for greatly pleased test runners.
automotive interiors, says Teijin. However, the fibre has more to
Teijin says that it will continue offer: it oxygenates the air with
to refine Biofront fabric for use in negative ions for increased well-
automobiles, aiming at sales being. This comfortable sensation
within the industry of ¥100 is bolstered by the pleasant feel
million in 2011 and ¥300 million of the soft, skin-friendly material.
in 2012.
JUNE 2009 21
Technical Textiles
More Drifire Functional Spunbond

Garments
for Naval Table Linen
Aviation
The US Naval Air Systems
Command (NAVAIR) has signifi-
cantly expanded its authorisation
for Naval Aviation Commands,
including Marine Aviation
Commands, to procure a greater
variety of Drifire garments
through open purchase or
through GSA.
The Drifire performance and
flame-resistant uniforms that
have received approval to date,
include the company's silk-weight
T-shirts and silk-weight boxer
shorts, both of which were
previously authorised for
purchase in August 2008, as well
as the addition of silk-weight
long-sleeve T-shirts, silk-weight
long pants, mid-weight T-shirts,
mid-weight long sleeve T-shirts,
and mid-weight long pants.
“The men and women of NAVAIR
Anti-soiling (lotus effect) finish on PP/PE variant of SFTI developed spunbonded table linen.
work hard and they need safety
garments that are able to keep up Researchers at Sächsisches Textilforschungsinstitut eV “The newly developed table linen made from
to them. Our performance (STFI), Germany, have completed a project on the spunbonded nonwovens fulfils a large range of user-
garments are going to help them development of new table linen made from spunbonded specific requirements,” says STFI’s Dipl-WA Ralf Taubner.
keep cool in the summer, warm nonwovens for different outdoor applications. The flexible behaviour of the material as well as good
in the winter, but most The project explored the optimisation of nonwoven adhesion characteristics on table surfaces is a
importantly, dry, comfortable, and characteristics and examined the extent to which material particular feature of the table linen. In addition, an
safe,” said L. Gene Cone, chief combinations made of polypropylene (PP) and anti-soiling (Lotus Effect) surface finish was achieved,
executive of Drifire. polyethylene (PE) as well as polyester (PET) and polyamide together with a pleasant textile hand and outstanding
Since the initial authorisation, (PA) could serve as basic materials. Bi-component laying and draping characteristics.
Drifire says that it has received spinning technology was used for material processing. The Special importance was placed on having an open
countless testimonials from project also made use of the potential for adding design potential for colouring and printing, good weather
military men and women who additional components to make polymer blends with and UV stability as well as high durability to repeated
have tested the company's line of special functional characteristics. washing processes.
performance FR garments.
Drifire manufactures a complete
line of high performance FR fabric
and garments, utilising the dri-
Release patented moisture-
High Performance Awning Fabric
management technology. The Herculite Products Inc has sealable and completely providing a natural fabric
product lines are designed and unveiled a new high- waterproof. The product can be design element.
built to work as a system of performance textile featuring used for commercial awnings Herculite Natura is available and
layered FR protection, along with the look and feel of woven cloth and canopies designed to exclusively distributed in North
high-performance moisture- on both sides. protect people and furnishings America by TriVantage and
management wicking through The company said Herculite from bad weather and the sun’s backed by Herculite’s 8-year
each layer of FR protection. Natura was fire resistant, heat harmful UV rays, while limited warranty.
Techtextil & ITM:Santex Santashrink.qxd 06/05/2009 09:51 Page 23
Preview: Techtextil
Focus on Functionality
Techtextil, Frankfurt, Germany
June 16-18
A TECHNICAL-textiles show may not be the
obvious location, but Techtextil will this year host
a conference on natural fibres, as part of the
International Year of Natural Fibres.
The aims of the conference, on June 17 and
18 June, is to draw the world of natural fibres
into closer contact with technical
applications, and to draw attention to the
benefits offered by natural fibres. The focus
will be functionality and the latest findings
about innovative applications in fields such as
automotive and building construction.
Organisers Messe Frankfurt say that, although
natural fibres already play an important role in
the textile industry, their share of the technical
segment is still quite low. The Natural Fibres
Congress is expected to generate new initiatives
and open up new perspectives for the market.
Benninger DyePad
The UN General Assembly declared 2009 to
be the International Year of Natural Fibres at
the end of 2006. According to the Food and
Agriculture Organisation of the United
Nations (FAO), the Year of Natural Fibres will
help the UN achieve its Millennium
Development Goals by boosting the efficiency
and sustainability of this branch of agriculture,
which provides employment for millions of
people in the poorest parts of the world.
The Natural Fibres Congress is expected to be
one of the highlights of Techtextil, which runs for
three days, from June 16-18. The last Frankfurt
event, in 2007, attracted more than 23,000
visitors, including those to the parallel Avantex
technical-clothing exhibition, and as recently as
last November, the organisers were confident
that 2009 would be even better.
It was from around November that the key
An operator servicing the Monforts Energy Tower
automotive sector went into crisis and the
troubled economic background can be Symposium will remain separate from the textiles, with all working features. The TT Montex
expected to have its effect. However, in March Avantex Symposium. chamber is 4m long, instead of the standard 3m,
Messe Frankfurt could boast ‘excellent’ As in previous years, the majority of the and is designed to provide an absolutely even
preliminary results, with more than 800 show will be dedicated to applications in temperature over the width and length of the
exhibitors booked, of which 12% are new to technical fibre and fabrics. However there is dryer for coating processes. A single gas burner
the exhibition. Notably, China has an increased always a significant representation by or heating element and two ventilators per
presence – up from 53 companies to 60. companies promoting processing technology, chamber are said to make a coating line
This year Avantex will be an integrated part of coatings and other ancillary products. comprising three 4m chambers more economic
Techtextil. Messe Frankfurt said the move was In June, Monforts will be exhibiting a working than four 3m chambers. A specially developed
aimed at optimising profitable synergies, through model of its TT (Technical Textiles) Montex nozzle system for coating applications will also
overlaps and interactions for exhibitors and stenter, offering what the company calls a new be featured. Where space may be a premium
visitors. However, the main Techtextil concept for finishing coatings and technical Continued on page 25
JUNE 2009 23
Preview: ITM
Putting the Squeeze

on Drying Costs
New Resilio roll-covering technology brings major performance
benefits and energy savings
ONE COMPANY taking full advantage of the • Typically 40% better expression on knitted expertise in mechanical squeezing and
opportunities at the forthcoming ITM exhibition, goods. dewatering equipment with specially developed
in Turkey, is the UK’s Richard Hough Ltd (RHL), • Typically 18% better expression on wovens. dual-layer technology for the covering. The
which claims dramatic improvements in water secret is in the integration of the squeezing
expression, and major cost- and energy- savings Cost savings are equally significant, power of the sub-layer with a revolutionary
in drying, for users of its novel roll-covering potentially reaching as much as €50,000 profile-hugging top layer, devised by RHL.
technology for fabric dewatering applications. per year depending on the applications (see Says RHL’s Anthony Ashton: “This greatly
Specialist squeeze-roll manufacturer RHL has Table 1). increases the surface contact in the nip,
collaborated with Just Rollers plc, world leader in The Resilio roll will be officially launched at thus expressing the liquid from every void
elastomer roll-coverings, to develop the new ITM 2009, when it will be the focus of the RHL and undulation in the fabric, with
Resilio system. It says trials have identified presentation on Booth 611 in Hall 6. microscopic efficiency.”
substantial performance benefits over the RHL has applied for a patent for the new Other key features of the new Resilio roll are
existing market-leading elastomer roll cover: Resilio roll, which combines the company’s own said to include:
Table 1: Resilio Roll Cost Savings • Greatly improved ‘gentle’ squeezing

Drying costs for 8-compartment stenter frame performance compared to hard rubber rolls
• Superb bond strength
Process Typical drying costs per year (€) Savings using Resilio system (€)
• Resistance to the majority of processing
Finishing of woven fabrics 100,000-125,000 18,000-22,000 chemicals
Thermo-fixing of woven 150,000-190,000 27,000-34,000 • Very hard-wearing – excellent abrasion
fabrics
resistance
• Increased service life compared to standard
hard rubber rolls
East Meets West • Uniquely developed compound blends
RHL also manufactures the well-known

ITM, Istanbul, Turkey Roberto roll, as well as extra-tough Resistor roll
June 6-10 coverings for use in demanding environments
Times may be hard, but the organisers of ITM of Tuyap Holding, Bulent Unal, said: “The where harsh or aggressive chemicals and resins
2009 (International Textile Machinery most effective exhibition of the year 2009 are used.
Exhibition) are still expecting the best part of will bring together manufacturers from the New compounds for the latest Resilio and
1,500 exhibitors at the next edition, in June – Balkans, Ukraine and Russia, Caucasian Resilio-Resistor products have been
which would make it the biggest yet. and Arab countries, Southern and Central developed and perfected through an
The exhibition, in Istanbul, services a massive Africa as well as Central Asia. Increasing intensive testing programme in Europe and
textile industry in Turkey, while its location is production of textiles and planned the USA, and RHL now believes machinery
considered a natural meeting point for investments as well as growing existing manufacturers need to respond quickly to
Western Europeans to meet customers from investments due to energy resources has the increasing need for greater fuel economy
the Middle East, Eastern Europe and the resulted in a big interest from the start of and lower emissions, driven by the long-term
Balkans. The target for visitors is 80,000. 2008 promotions.” prospect of high oil prices.
This year’s event is expected to see the ITM 2009 will take place at a larger and newly Says Anthony Ashton: “The new Resilio and
presence of important textile manufac- renovated Beylikduzu Tuyap Fair Convention Resilio-Resistor compounds will challenge textile
turers from Asia and Africa. The president and Congress Centre. finishing machinery designers to develop new
energy-efficient and ‘gentle’ fabric-processing
The new Resilio coverings developed with Just Rollers. Schematic showing the Resilio squeezing effect.
machines to suit the rigorous demands of the weft yarns or between the surface contours therefore, the softer outer cover (6) is able to
21st century – and the machinery manufacturer of the fabric. Also, the relatively thin and gently and closely conform to the textile
that chooses the wrong technology options may softer outer cover (6) makes the surface top fabric passing the roll, while the underlying
risk being marginalised.” layer to more ‘deformable’ than previous relatively hard sub-layer (5) supports the thin
types of rubber-covered squeeze rolls and outer cover (6) to provide sufficient
Resilio squeezing effect (Figure 2) thus increases the efficiency of the squeeze squeezing force.
The Resilio roll (1) has a dual-layer covering, nip between two such rollers by effectively
consisting of a hard rubber (97° Shore A) increasing the area of contact between the Two versions
sub-layer (5) at normally 10-20mm thick, rollers and the fabric with minimum loss of The Resilio for final squeezing and padding
combined with a relatively softer rubber (70° nip force. The relatively softer outer cover (6) is available in two versions, Resilio 100 and
Shore A) top layer (6) at 2mm thick. At the also gives the added advantage of squeezing Resilio 150, the latter having increased
critical thickness of 1-2mm, the elasticity of the textile fabric more gently than previous temperature and abrasion resistance for
the top layer combines with the high density types of rubber-coated squeeze rolls, which arduous applications.
of the sub-layer. The effective Shore A have a significantly harder outer surface. Resilio-Resistor is offered in three types for
hardness of the combination of the two However, the relatively hard and thick harsher environments:
layers falls in the range of 80-85°. underlying sub-layer (5) plays an important • Resilio-Resistor A – For running in a medium of
The squeezing effect can be described role in the improved performance of the hot caustic at 90°C or for hot hydrogen
as follows: Resilio roll (1) because it retains sufficient peroxide bleaching.
The softer outer cover is sufficiently resilience to provide sufficient squeezing • Resilio-Resistor B – For running in acidic
resilient to conform closely to the textured force. This squeezing force is concentrated medium including pre-wash.
surface of the fabric, thereby squeezing liquid into a very narrow nip line area due to the • Resilio-Resistor C – For running in medium or
out of the cavities between the warp and cushioning effect of the top layer. Effectively, hot caustic at 90°C including pre-wash.
Monforts has introduced a ‘stand alone’ Energy result is an energy saving of 10-15%. apparel and military applications.
Tower for retrofitting to existing stenters or Benninger, showing with Elmatex, will focus on The Edolan C-Range is a new range of
hotflues with restricted access above the units. the Küsters DyePad, which it describes as the water-based polyurethane dispersions with a
Wumag Texroll will be promoting the energy perfect professional solution for technical fabric. high amount of solids – which provides an
efficiency of its cylinder dryers with insulated With its deflection-controlled S-Roll, the nip energy saving as less water needs to be
housings. It says that, due to this feature, the pressure is infinitely variable and can be evaporated after application. It contains four
quantity of extracted air is decreased consid- maintained at a constant, uniform pressure. different types of soft to medium-soft
erably and the temperature within the housing Benninger says further developments have put aliphatic polyurethane dispersions. Among
is increased from 40°C up to 70°C. Therefore the main emphasis on the infrastructure, such as them, Edolan CA is said to be very soft and to
the cylinder and fabric are surrounded by air fabric guidance, dosing and recipe management. have extremely good adhesion towards
with a higher temperature and cannot cool From the textile-chemical community, synthetics, especially polyamide. Edolan CT is
down. The steam-absorbing capacity of air Tanatex will be showing a variety of new medium soft has high flexibility combined
increases from 38g water per kg air at 40°C to options in its Edolan range of performance with excellent abrasion resistance. The first is
290 g/kg at 70°C. This leads, says Wumag coatings. Edolan Breathable is a collection of recommended as a basecoat and the second
Texroll, to a decrease in relative air humidity, coatings for waterproof, breathable fabric as a topcoat for articles with high light-
and overall evaporation capacity rises. The constructions, for sportswear, protective fastness requirements. ID
JUNE 2009 25
Impact Final:News.qxd 30/04/2009 15:50 Page 26
Textiles & Sustainability
$1.7 Million Penalty million, including 30 fewer audit agreement with the EPA. Tennessee; LaPorte, Orange, and
after Environmental premature deaths per year, 2,000 Invista conducted 45 separate Victoria, Texas; and Martinsville and
Violations fewer days/year when people would audits of environmental practices Waynesboro, Virginia.
miss school or work, and over and compliance at facilities located As part of its corrective action,
Invista 9,000 fewer cases of upper and

lower respiratory symptoms.
in: Seaford, Delaware; Athens,
Calhoun, and Dalton, Georgia;
Invista will install pollution-control
equipment to treat air pollutants at
Pays Up The settlement resolves violations

disclosed under Invista’s corporate
Kinston, North Carolina; Camden,
South Carolina; Chattanooga,
four of its plants, while at others has
agreed to improve control of
Fibre giant Invista is to pay a US$1.7 benzene wastes.
million civil penalty and spend up to This is the largest settlement under
an estimated $500 million to correct the EPA’s audit policy, which was
NatureWorks Claims
self-reported environmental launched in 1995. The policy
violations, discovered at facilities
Manufacturing Breakthrough provides incentives to companies
across the USA, according to a joint
announcement by the Environmental
Protection Agency (EPA) and the US
Greener Ingeo that voluntarily discover, promptly
disclose, and expeditiously correct
environmental violations. The
Justice Department. companies must also take steps to
The company disclosed more than prevent future violations.
680 violations of water, air, The EPA may reduce or waive
hazardous-waste, emergency penalties for certain violations if the
planning and preparedness, and facility meets the conditions of the
pesticide regulations to the EPA after policy. Consistent with the audit
auditing 12 facilities it acquired from policy, EPA waived a large portion of
DuPont in 2004. the penalty in this case.
“By correcting these violations,
Invista will reduce harmful air Retails Textile Sales Top
pollution by nearly 10,000 tons per $100 Million
year,” said Catherine R. McCabe,
acting assistant administrator of the
EPA’s Office of Enforcement and
UK Organics
Compliance Assurance. “Invista is Rise
making a clean start in a settlement
that achieves significant environ- UK sales of organic clothing and
mental benefits, and we encourage textiles in 2008 topped £100
other new owners to do the same.” million for the first time, according
John C. Cruden, Acting Assistant to estimates published by The Soil
Attorney General for the Justice Association. The figure was
Department’s Environment and boosted by a 40% increase in sales
Natural Resources Division, said: of organic-cotton products, with
“This settlement is a significant the UK accounting for up to 10% of
achievement, as it will reduce air the global market.
pollution in numerous The association said that,
communities, and demonstrates although precise figures were not
the United States’ commitment to NatureWorks has reported a new manufacturing breakthrough with its Ingeo available for the size of the UK
ensuring that all facility owners plant-derived plastics that cuts CO2 emissions and energy consumption. market for organic cotton, best
come into compliance with A new, proprietary manufacturing process, commissioned late last year, estimates pointed to sales of
environmental requirements. lowers CO2 emissions by 60% and reduces by 30% the energy required to £60–65 million in 2007 and
“This settlement reflects an produce Ingeo plastics compared to previous Ingeo production. £85–90 million in 2008. When
effective use of EPA’s audit policy The company says emissions and energy reductions are even greater when sales of other organic fibres, such
and the value of companies Ingeo bioresin is compared to petroleum-based plastics. as wool and linen, were taken
performing audits and working with The process of manufacturing PET, for example – the polymer most into account, the market added
the United States to correct commonly used to make water and soda bottles and the mainstay of the up to £100 million – a 25%
violations found at their facilities.” synthetic fibres industry – emits 3.4 kilograms of CO2 per kilogram of resin increase on 2007.
The joint statement says the produced. By contrast, the new Ingeo manufacturing process emits 77% The Soil Association says sales
emission reductions resulting from less, with 0.75 kilograms of CO2 per kilogram of resin. The new Ingeo of organic clothing and textiles
correcting these violations will production technology also consumes 56% less energy than the equivalent have increased more than tenfold
result in estimated annual human weight of PET. since 2002 and that, while the
health benefits valued at over $325 current economic downturn is
Impact Final:News.qxd 30/04/2009 15:50 Page 27
likely to cause a slowing of

growth in 2009 and 2010, the Students Launch Underwear Range
rate of growth will pick up again
in two years and sales will almost
treble between 2008 and 2012,
Soy Fundamentals
reaching £280 million.
Over 150 retail shops and over
250 web outlets now sell organic
textile products in the UK.
Polyester/Wool Blend is
‘World First’
Sustainable
Suiting Cloth Uranus Apparel, a new eco-friendly company company is seriously committed to utilising soy
formed by two college students, is launching its as a more sustainable alternative to cotton fibre.”
Japan's Teijin Fibers has launched a first line of soy underwear for women under the Soy fabric is manufactured from the by-products
new polyester-wool blend suiting brand name Uranus. The garments are boyshort- of soy food production such as tofu and soybean
and trouser fabric within its Eco-A- style and have been appropriately named oil. According to Uranus, it is extremely soft and
Wear range, manufactured using its ‘soyshorts’. comfortable, often being compared to silk or
Ecopet range of yarns, with fibre “The idea for Uranus Apparel was developed by cashmere, while it is also more durable and dries
from recycled plastic bottles. two University of Florida students, who sought to more quickly than cotton.
It claims the new fabric, described create a product that would promote sustain- Uranus Apparel soyshorts are packaged in a
as soft to the touch and wrinkle- ability with a sense of humour,” said co-founder burlap drawstring pouch that is both reusable and
resistant, is the first environmentally Natalie San Andres. “Despite the funny name, the 100 percent biodegradable.
friendly polyester and wool-blend
fabric in the world. Other Eco-A-
Wear products include blends with
viscose and cotton, or 100% fully Global Retail Sales despite the global retail outlook, cotton production increased to
recycled polyester. Continue Sharply most brands and retailers selling 145,872 metric tons (MT)
Teijin says Eco-A-Wear fabrics are Upwards organic cotton products (668,581 bales) grown on
greener because they do not rely remained committed to their 161,000 hectares in 22 countries
solely on petroleum. The recycled
polyester fibre is generated from
Organic sustainability plans and upbeat
about market growth, with plans
worldwide (from 57,932 MT
produced in 2006/07).
used plastic bottles that are Cotton to expand their product lines by OE notes that, during 2008,
collected, processed into flakes then
ground into pellets, and made into
Boom 24% and 33% in 2009 and 2010
respectively. This would result
certified organic-cotton fibre
supplies grew by 95% - signifi-
polyester staple fibres. Global retail sales of organic in an estimated $4 billion market cantly higher than the annual
“Interest in sustainability has cotton apparel and home textile in 2009 and a $5.3 billion market growth rates of 45% in 2006 and
grown, with the consumer more products reached an estimated in 2010. 53% in 2007.
aware about waste output,” said $3.2 billion in 2008, according to “It is a sign of the times that “Farmers who planted on
Moses Cohen, business the Organic Cotton Market despite ominous financial speculation or expanded without
development and project manager Report 2007-2008, released by forecasts, brands and retailers market partners may have shifted
at N.I. Teijin Shoji (U.S.A.) Inc. “At the non-profit organisation are standing fast to their the market into a state of
Teijin, we are dedicated to create Organic Exchange. commitment to making their oversupply in 2009,” says
products that are as economically This represents a 63% increase product lines more sustainable Pepper, who strongly discourages
advantageous as they are ecolog- from the $1.9 billion market in by ever increasing their use of farmers from taking this kind of
ically sound. We are very committed 2007. The top ten organic organic cotton and other organic risk. “Brands may want to
to solving the problem of waste and cotton-using brands and retailers fibres such as wool, linen, and explore opportunities for
through our research and globally were Wal-Mart (USA), silk,” said LaRhea Pepper, expanding their organic
development have invented a C&A (Belgium), Nike (USA), H&M Organic Exchange senior director. programmes with their business
process that utilises disposed plastic (UK), Zara (Spain), Anvil (USA), The amount of organic cotton partners,” she continued, “as for
bottles to create fashionable fabric. It Coop Switzerland, Pottery Barn grown worldwide in 2007/08 the first time in many years,
has taken Teijin two years to perfect (USA), Greensource (USA), and increased by 152%, according to supplies of organic fibre, yarns,
Eco-A-Wear and now we are bringing Hess Natur (Germany). OE’s Organic Cotton Farm and and fabrics are more available
it to market.” Organic Exchange said that, Fiber Report 2008. Organic- than in previous years.”
JUNE 2009 27
Techaids Ad:Layout 1 01/05/2009 09:36 Page 1
Silk:Santex Santashrink.qxd 01/05/2009 11:43 Page 29
Research: Silk Printing
Printing the ‘Queen of

Fabric’ by Sodium Alginate
and its Blend with Guar Gum
By Priyanka Kesarwani and Archana Singh, MAB College
of Home Science, Kanpur, India
NATIONAL AND international awareness of the

environment and ecology, and the use of eco-
Table-1: Various Concentrations and ratio's of thickening agents
friendly fibre and dyes, have been increasing all S. No. Thickening agent Concentration/ratio of thickening agent
over the globe. Silk is the queen of fabric and
6%
known for its rich lustre, fascinating feel and 1. Sodium Alginate 8%
dignified drape. 10%
Printing plays a special role in adding value to 20:80
Sodium : Guar 40:60
silk for both apparel and furnishing goods, and 2. Alginate Gum 50:50
the printing of this fabric can be effectively (8%) (3%) 60:40
80:20
achieved by eco-friendly reactive dyes.
At present sodium alginate is the most widely After the preparation of the thickening paste, Results
used thickener in reactive-dye printing. This the scoured fabric was printed with the help of a
thickener is washed out easily from the fabric but screen, using the following recipe (Kale 1976). Visual Assessment of the
its cost is high. This has led to the development printed silk sample
of alternative thickeners or the blending of 30 parts Procion colour Printed silk sample were judged by a panel of 30
sodium alginate with other thickeners. In view of 30 parts urea judges, comprised of textile experts and
the price, a partly substituted blend with guar 230 parts warm water (120ºF-140ºF) research scholars, for various attributes, viz.
gum represents an acceptable alternative. 650 parts thickening agent uniformity of colour, sharpness of outlines,
Printing with reactive dyes along with the 60 parts sodium bicarbonate whiteness of ground and overall appearance. It
blending of guar gum results in excellent printing was observed that a blend of sodium alginate
qualities and good fabric handle, therefore an 1000 parts and guar gum in the ratio 80:20 scored the
attempt was made to print silk fabric with pure maximum marks 402 (1st Rank) when
sodium alginate and its blend with guar gum by Note: 10% solution of sodium bicarbonate is compared with the other ratios. The sample
using reactive dyes. prepared and 60 parts is added to the printing printed with the 8% concentration of sodium
paste just before printing. alginate scored 2nd highest marks (396),
Methodology The printing paste was prepared by whereas 6% concentration and 10% concen-
mixing the dyestuff with urea before adding tration scored 357 and 192 marks respectively
Cream-colour silk fabric with a count of 125 cold water. The mixture was heated to not (Table 2, Figure 1).
ends and 92 picks, and with a weight of 50gsm, more than 70ºC (160ºC) to dissolve the dye
was selected for the study. The scouring of the and urea; the solution obtained was then Computer colour matching
fabric was done by 0.5ml mild alkali /100ml stirred into the thickening and the required (Spectra-scan)
water at 50ºC for 30 minutes. The dye used for amount was added to the cold print paste. For the computer colour matching, the sample
the study was dichlorotriazinyl reactive dye (Brill The paste was stirred properly and applied printed with 6% concentration of sodium
Red-M). to the fabric through a screen. Lastly, the alginate was taken as the standard sample and
The pastes of sodium alginate and guar gum printed samples were dried and steamed the other printed samples were compared with
were prepared separately by sprinkling the dry for 45 minutes at 95ºC in a steam ager and this standard sample. Results are presented in
powder over the cold water under constant these printed samples were subjected to Table 3, which shows the DL value of the printed
stirring and were allowed to stand for few hours visual assessment, computer colour samples. It was found that the sample printed
to attain full swelling of the gum particles. The matching, bending length, crease recovery with the 8% concentration of sodium alginate
blend was prepared by mixing 3% concentration angle and cost calculation for optimisation was closest to the standard sample, with the
of guar gum and 8% concentration of sodium of a suitable concentration or ratio of DL* value –0.645, while the blend of the
alginate, in various ratios given in Table 1. thickening agent. sodium alginate and guar gum in the ratio 80:20
JUNE 2009 29
had a DL value of –1.284, which was

Table-2: Visual evaluation of the printed silk sample comparable to the DL value of sample
Concentration/ratio of printed with the 8% concentration of
Thickening agent Marks obtained
thickening agent sodium alginate. Other samples showed
6% 357 more deviation in DL value when compared
Sodium Alginate 8% 396 with the standard.
10% 192
Ostar, T. (2000) reported that the blend
20:80 352
Sodium : Guar 40:60 357 of guar gum and sodium alginate shows
Alginate Gum 50:50 365 intermediate behaviour, in which increase in
(8%) (3%) 60:40 370
80:20 402 the alginate component reduces the elastic
property of the paste and increases the
extent of penetration and colour strength.
Determination of fabric
stiffness
Printing with sodium alginate causes slight
increase in fabric stiffness, and the blend of
sodium alginate and guar gum in various
ratios causes slightly greater increase the
fabric stiffness, when compared with the
unprinted sample. But the sample printed
with the blend of sodium alginate and guar
gum in the ratio 80:20 had almost
comparable stiffness value to the sample
printed with the 8% concentration of
sodium alginate (Table 4, Figure 3).
Statistical analysis reveals that there is an
insignificant difference (p<0.05) between
the stiffness value of the sample printed
with sodium alginate and the blend of
sodium alginate and guar gum, but there
was a significant difference (p>0.05) in the
stiffness values of the samples printed with
different concentrations and ratios of
thickening agents.
Sonja S.I. (2000) reported that printing
with reactive dye caused a slight increase in
fabric stiffness even when alginate was used
as a thickening agent and this increase in
the fabric stiffness in the blended gum was
due to higher reactivity of the substituted
guar gum compared to alginate. The
researcher also reported that the mixture of
highly substituted guar gum with sodium
alginate could be used for reactive printing,
as the fabric-stiffness value was comparable
to that of printing with sodium alginate.
Crease-recovery angle
There was slight decrease in the crease-
recovery angle when the sample was printed
with sodium alginate. The blend of sodium
alginate and guar gum caused a slightly
greater decrease in the crease-recovery angle
when compared with the unprinted samples.
It was found that the sample printed with the
blend of sodium alginate and guar gum in the
Fig 1 : Visual evaluation of the printed silk sample
ratio 80:20 had almost comparable crease-
Table 3: Computer colour matching (Spectra-scan) of the printed sample

St. illum D65 L* 48.994 a* 52.412 b* 28.867 c* 59.836 H*28.833
Concentration / ratio of
S.No. Thickening agent thickening agents Illum Da* Db* DL* DC* DH* DE*
8% D65 3.074 5.248 -0.645 5.285 2.946 6.328

1. Sodium Alginate 10% D65 5.142 6.128 -5.282 4.158 2.013 5.218
20:80 D65 3.742 4.131 -4.385 3.142 3.012 6.381
Sodium : Guar 40:60 D65 3.123 3.102 -3.214 2.132 4.016 6.328
2. Alginate Gum 50:50 D65 2.136 3.012 -3.815 3.016 2.346 8.088
(8%) (3%) 60:40 D65 3.124 2.342 -2.152 2.036 2.136 7.017
80:20 D65 1.123 3.214 -1.284 1.045 3.012 6.158
recovery angle with the sample printed with

the 8% cent concentration of sodium alginate Table 4: Bending length and crease recovery of the samples
(Table 4, Figure 3). Type of Bending length (cm) Crease recovery (º)
Statistical analysis of the data indicates that sample
Thickening Concentration / ratio of
the difference in the value of crease-recovery Unprinted agents thickening agent Warp Weft Warp Weft
angle was insignificant (p<0.05) when the silk sample 2.5 1.9 110º 115º
samples were printed pure sodium alginate 6% 2.6 108º 113
Sodium 21.9
and a blend of sodium alginate and guar gum, 8% 2.67 107.5º 112
Alginate 2.5
10% 3.1 104º 109º
while this difference in value of crease-
recovery angle was significant (p>0.05) for 20:80 2.9 2.4 105.2º 109º
40:60 2.8 2.3 105.5º 110.5º
various concentration ratios of thickeners. Printed silk 50:50 2.83 2.27 106º 111º
Sample 60:40 2.7 2.1 106.5º 111.5º
80:20 2.75 2.05 107º 112º
Cost calculation
The cost was calculated for printing one
metre of silk fabric, including the cost of
dye, chemicals, thickeners, and excluding
the labour charges. It was calculated that
the fabric printed with 8% concentration of
sodium alginate cost Rs 16.92, whereas
for the fabric printed with the blend of
sodium alginate and guar gum in the ratio
80:20 the cost was Rs 15.00 – that is, Rs
2.00 per metre lower when compared
with the printing of silk fabric with pure
sodium alginate.
Selection of best
concentration/ratio of the
thickening agents for printing Fig 2: Bending length of Silk fabric
silk fabric with reactive dye
On the basis of various physical tests of the
printed sample, it is concluded that the silk
sample printed with blend of sodium
alginate (8% concentration) and guar gum
(3% concentration) in the ratio 80:20 scored
the highest marks in visual evaluation and
has a lower printing cost. When the result of
bending length, crease recovery and
computer colour matching were observed, it
was found that the results were comparable
to that of the sample printed with only
sodium alginate (8% concentration).
Therefore the blend of sodium alginate (8%
concentration) and guar gum (3% concen-
tration) in the ratio of 80:20 was selected Fig 3: Crease-recovery angle for silk fabric
as best for printing of silk fabric.
JUNE 2009 31
Table 5: Colour fastness thickness and tensile strength of the silk samples
Washing Fastness Crocking fastness Perspiration fastness Tensile strength (kg)
Concentration Staining Cotton Wool Staining
Thickening Change in Thickness
of thickening
agent Colour colour (mm)
agent / Ratio Cotton Wool Warp Weft
Cotton Wool change Wet Dry Wet Dry
Al AC Al AC Al AC
Unprinted
silk sample 0.08 13 32
Sodium : Guar
Alginate Gum 80:20 5 5 5 4/5 5 4/5 5 4/5 5 4/5 4 5 4/5 0.09 11 9
(8%) (3%)
The silk sample printed with the above

standardised concentration of thickening agent
Conclusion References
Kale, D.G. (1976) Principles of cotton
was tested for various physical properties, viz. From all the above reported results, it can be
printing. 2nd ed. Mahajan Brother
tensile strength, thickness and colour fastness. It concluded that the blend of sodium alginate
publication, Ahmedabad. 128-139.
was observed that there was slight decrease in (8% concentration) and guar gum (3%
tensile strength and slight increase in the concentration) in the ratio 80:20 gave the Narkar, R.K. (1991) Perspective in printing
thickness of the printed sample when compared best results and is hence optimised for with reactive dyes. Colourage, Supplement of
to the unprinted sample. The test for colour printing of silk fabric with reactive dye. September issue.38, 2 : 39-42.
fastness revealed that the blend of sodium Printing with the standardised concentration
alginate and guar gum in the ratio 80:20 had and ratio did not degrade the physical and Shenai, V.A. (1999) Technology of printing
excellent fastness properties to washing, colour-fastness properties and the difference 4th ed. Mumbai Sevek publication 64-75 p.
crocking, light and perspiration (Table 4). was found to be insignificant (p< 0.05).
Narker (1991) reported that reactive dye has Thus the findings can be successfully Sonja. S.I., Ostar, T., Schneider, R. (2000)
Printing properties of a high substituted guar
high tactical value, brilliancy and good all-round utilised for the production of good-quality
gum and its mixture with alginate, Ecology
fastness properties, particularly to rubbing prints on silk fabric with reactive dye on
and color science.
(crocking) and washing. large scale. ID NO
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Digital Textile:Santex Santashrink.qxd 06/05/2009 09:04 Page 33
Digital Printing
Beyond Globalisation
Robotic garment handling and digital finishing are a potent recipe
for the return of a significant chunk of the clothing industry to
Europe in the near future. Adrian Wilson reports from Brussels.
ADVANCED DIGITAL-inkjet finishing and printing The achievement of LEAPFROG, he added,

techniques have pivotal roles to play in a new had been in introducing concepts that today are
plan to re-establish garment manufacturing in practically unknown or unused, in respect of
Europe – a plan being advanced by the smart materials, laser and inkjet applications,
European Technology Platform (ETP) for the robotics and realistic, virtual sampling and real-
Future of Textiles and Clothing. time 3D, in addition to the use of radio-
At its fourth annual public conference, held in frequency (RFID) tagging along the total
Brussels, Belgium, from April 1-2, progress was production pipeline.
reported on over 30 collaborative textile- “Some of the results relating to research
research projects that have been announced by materials in respect of virtual prototyping have
the ETP since its establishment in 2004. already transferred to direct use, while others
These represent a funding commitment of require further development,” said Mr Walter.
around €220 million, of which about €150 “Other technologies investigated have simply
million is being contributed by the proved to be not suitable.
European Commission. “But most importantly, we have
Two of the largest projects are demonstrated that radical innovation in
LEAPFROG, involving innovative fabric clothing technology can be brought back to
preparation, automated garment manufac- the fore. We are working on a demonstration
turing and 3D garment prototyping, and automation plant, to be installed in Italy by
DIGITEX, which is directly concerned with June, and have now made the decision to do a
digital finishing and printing, and specif- follow-up project in the area of automated
ically, more exactly understanding and garment manufacturing.” Lutz Walter: “A lot of the technology for the textile industry
belongs to the Twentieth Century, if not the Nineteenth.”
controlling the interaction between inkjet Alessandra Monero and Riccardo Bagglini, of
droplets and the textile substrate. D’Appolonia in Italy, described some of the Laser welding is viewed as having
work on developing the finishing line for just-in- tremendous advantages, being already
LEAPFROG time garment making-up. employed in other industries for the welding of
As a four-year project that began in May 2005, This has involved, among other things: metals and polymers at speeds of up to 1,300
LEAPFROG – Leadership for European Apparel • An investigation of stimuli-sensitive filaments metres a minute.
Production From Research along Original for just-in-time-production The hybrid line resulting from this work
Guidelines – has involved 36 partners from • The development of a shape-memory- basically consists of:
across Europe, from research organisations and polymer grasping device, employing an
SMEs through to leading brands Hugo Boss, actuation meter that can be controlled by • An adjustable mould
Ermenegildo Zegna and La Redoute. temperature, light or energy changes, rather • A spraying station
“A lot of the technology for the textile than using step motors. • A robotic welding station
industry belongs to the Twentieth Century, if Polymer-actuator technology will be lighter • Intelligent overhead trolleys
not the Nineteenth,” said Lutz Walter of and cheaper and more easily integrated into
Euratex, the European textile-industry the garment-production process Rezia Molfino, of DIMEC at the University of
association. Introducing various areas of • The inkjet digital finishing of different kinds of Genova in Italy, explained that the adjustable
research for the project, he explained: “The interlinings mould has five ‘spine’ columns, corresponding
aim of LEAPFROG has been to move towards • Various methods for effectively replacing to the five seams of a jacket. Each spine is
three things – bringing back clothing manufac- the fusing or sewing of interlinings, by equipped with linear stepped motors for the
turing to Europe, enormously increasing the inkjet deposition of adhesives, with a laser fine regulation of shape, and pneumatic
speed of real-time prototyping for garments, welding process called Clearweld, actuators for cutting blades and needles. All of
and the development of new product-service developed at the TWI (World Centre for the columns are mounted on slides, to allow
offerings, which also bring production closer Materials Joining Technology) in radial movement.
to the point of sale.” Cambridge, and by hybrid techniques Continued on page 34
JUNE 2009 33
Digital Printing

Zimmer Targets The modular structure of the mould is based on a bed of actuated pins that
can be duplicated up to any multiple size. A neoprene membrane is shaped by
Production Fabrics the pins and equipped with a pneumatic suction system for fabric clamping.
Each module is totally autonomous and a notebook PC hosts the control
system that drives the step motors to move the pins. Special software
New High-Speed Colaris Machine
ultimately models the surface shapes.
The spraying station employs a low-viscosity absorber, based on acetone.
The ultrasonic spraying nozzle has an adjustable focusing mechanism and the
spraying head is mounted on a SCARA robot.
Roberto Mortorsi, of ROBOX in Italy, said that the intelligent overhead
trolleys were self-sufficient from one position to another, with absolute position
read-out. They moved at up to one metre a second, had positioning precision
of up to 1mm and were based on Zigbee technology.
Integration
Just as crucial are the virtual garment-prototyping and integration modules,
which have been developed by networking partners within LEAPFROG.
A CVP (Collaborative Virtual Prototyping) system has been developed at the
IFTH textiles research institutes in France, in collaboration with French retail
brand La Redoute, and is based on four main steps:
Zimmer Colaris 1. The design process – remote assembly, based on defined body size and
Zimmer Austria has become the latest big name to enter the market fabric characteristics
for production-volume digital fabric printing, with its new Colaris 2. Online cost evaluation to obtain the best ratio of quality, prices and style
range of wide-format machines. (based on more than 1,500 components)
Equipped with piezo print heads of a design exclusive to Zimmer, the 3. Remote animation – for real-time virtual trials and aesthetic evaluation
Colaris offers 4, 6 or 8 process colours and speeds of up to 480 sq 4. A virtual showroom to store 3D blocks of all of the styles in collections. Each
m/hour – which Zimmer translates as 2,000 linear metres per shift. garment has basic 3D, blocks which can be modified as required.
The complete system comprises an entry unit, printing machine, The Extended Smart Garment Organisation integration module, meanwhile,
dryer and ‘high end, reliable’ software. employs TexTag RFID tags from Deister, which have been configured to survive
The Colaris uses variable-drop technology, producing a perceived all manufacturing processes – especially finishing – and allow a multiple quality
printing resolution of more than 720dpi. It is available in widths of check along the supply chain.
180, 260 or 320cm. This system is now in use between weaving and finishing mills, including
Zimmer says that in design development, the main focus has been Piacenza, Zuleeg, Knopf & Sohn and ColorWeb Gmbh, and the garment-
on simplicity of operation. The control panel is conveniently sited manufacturing plants of companies including Hugo Boss, Zegna and Bivolina.
and has a multilingual user interface to reduce training expenditure. The components of this system will either become available commercially or
The water-based inks supplied with the system are certified as as open-source licences in the near future.
compatible with the safety standard Oeko-Tex 100.
Colaris is the result of close collaboration between Zimmer Kufstein DIGITEX
and the Austrian textile group Josef Otten GmbH & Co, based in Meanwhile, Gerrit Koele, of TenCate, co-ordinator of the €12.7 million
Hohenems, at whose subsidiary Textildruck Imst the system is DIGITEX project, said there was an absolutely logical synergy between
already operational. digital printing and advanced mass customisation, but that inkjet
Founded in 1943 by Dr Josef Otten, the grandfather of the present Continued on page 37
owner and CEO, Christian Otten, the company has been
transformed over the past two decades from a large-scale producer
into a specialised niche-market supplier of high-end designs,
exporting more than 95% of its production. It is equipped for
finishing of natural fibre and offers non-mainstream processes on
fabrics such as silk, cotton, rayon, linen and their mixtures. It also
operates a programme called ‘Next’, for rapid response to new
trends and customer requests.
The company operates rotary printing machines with eight and ten
colours as well as pigment, reactive and disperse printing. Prior to
the installation of Colaris, it already operated five other digital textile-
printing machines.
Zimmer is best known in digital printing for its successful Chromojet Gerrit Koele: “If you had asked anyone in the film industry what they were trying to
carpet and pile-fabric printers. achieve through research and development a decade ago, they would have said to make
better films. But then the film industry went digital. And everything changed.”
Visit us at
TECHTEXTIL 2009
Hall 3.0 Stand F80
EDOLAN® BREATHABLE
Supports your active and extreme lifestyle
EDOLAN® BREATHABLE is a concept to obtain a coating with so-called “breathable” characteristics due to
its ability to transport moisture vapour. It is ideally to be used for coatings for waterproof breathable fabric
constructions for sportswear, leisurewear, protective apparel, military applications etc. EDOLAN® is the
TANATEX portfolio of waterborne polyurethanes, polyacrylics and additives to design innovative solutions.
10969172_Tanatex_Adv_TechTextil.indd 1 14-04-09 16:14:51

Digital Printing
Ink System European Release

Offers Print of New Nassenger
Konica Minolta IJ Technologies has announced the official launch of its
Through Results Nassenger VII high-speed inkjet textile printer, equipped with newly
developed high-performance inkjet printheads. Sales of the printer were
Ink supplier J-Teck3 has the printed fabric. The colour scheduled to begin in the European market in mid-April.
launched EPS (Equalizing on the reverse side is vibrant The new Nassenger VII is characterised by newly developed 512-nozzle
Printing System), designed to and intense and scarcely high-speed-drive inkjet printheads to deliver a maximum print speed of
allow homogeneous colour distinguishable from the front. 210 sq m/hour – more than three times faster than its predecessor, the
penetration into the fabrics in J-Teck3 adds that the feature Nassenger V. Konica Minolta says this makes it one of the fastest inkjet
direct-to-textile printing, will be particularly appreciated textile printers in the world. It is aimed at printers whose work typically
through the use of a clear ink in applications such as flags involves short-run production of a variety of styles.
and dedicated software. and banners, as well as in Equipped with a multi-gradation recording mode to control droplet size,
J-Teck3 says EPS CLEAR printing fashion items such as the new printer enables the reproduction of a wide range of tones. To
replaces one or more colour scarves, where the print- secure high productivity, it is equipped with a high-capacity ink tank that
slots in the digital printer, through effect was not can hold ten litres of each colour. The in-line degassing unit incorporated in
usually a light ink. The system previously achievable with the ink-supply system ensures greater stability during long hours of
keeps the ink volume uniform, digital printing. operation. Capable of printing on a maximum fabric width of 1,850 mm,
regardless of differences in The company will supply the Nassenger VII is also said to be suitable for printing fabrics for curtains
shade and intensity. In this samples of EPS CLEAR, and bed linens.
way, says the company, it is together with a software CD Konica Minolta says its exclusively developed acid and reactive inks
possible to achieve uniform and activation code, providing satisfy its own stringent safety standards and overseas safety regulations
colour penetration with light or time-limited access and a and are safe for human health. They contain no carcinogenic materials,
dark shades, on both sides of demonstration. making them safe for use by operators.
The Nassenger VII will be demonstrated at FESPA Digital, in Amsterdam.
Continued from page 34 “Textiles are a 3D environment and, in

technology would also be critical to the modelling, you have to look from all kinds of
finishing aspect. contact angles to calculate the true impact of
Within the context of the project, Koele just a single, nano-sized drop.
said the following finishing technologies had “However, both pre- and post- finishing
been explored in respect of coating, dosing treatments will all change in the near future
and monitoring: because the amount of the substances we are
• Antibacterial functions now adding is changing to an idiotic degree.
• Anti-static functions We are getting to the stage where we know
• Chromic materials what we can do in respect of the textile
• Smart fabrics architecture and chemistry in order to add only
• Controlled release systems for medicines, the very exact amount that is required to
perfumes, and repellents achieve a desired effect. And that implies huge
• Hydrophobic/hydrophilic materials savings and economies of scale. It’s no longer
about simply and inexactly mixing up recipes in
Functionalities Alan Hudd: “There are huge ecological benefits in huge quantities.”
“We have achieved something we can really respect of multi-functional finishing that is both Alan Hudd, the founder of UK digital inkjet
scalable and consistent.”
use after the project – a cost-efficient and specialist Xennia, which was acquired by Ten
clean technology, which will bring new film industry went digital – and everything Cate last year, reinforced Koele’s observations
functionalities,” he said. “I think these textile changed. The same kind of major change is with a history of the recent developments in
developments can be compared to the recent likely to happen to the textiles industry.” digital-inkjet technology.
history of the film industry. If you had asked Koele added that there were big problems at In summing up, he mentioned the main
anyone in the film industry what they were the beginning of the DIGITEX project in getting obstacles currently facing its mass adoption by
trying to achieve through research and across new ideas about a very complex area. the textile industry – very expensive inks and low
development a decade ago, they would have “It’s a huge job to know exactly what drop production speeds, making it only really suitable
said simply ‘making better films’. But then the interaction is on a textile substrate,” he said. for short production runs.
JUNE 2009 37
Digital Printing
garment-manufacturing line in the world over

the next decade.
Its first target would be the estimated 12
million nurse’s uniforms required every year in
Europe, expanding to other public-sector
uniform orders before mass markets.
“Of the €211 billion annual value of textiles in
Europe, 36% is still apparel, and of that, a third
is sold at normal prices, a third at discount and
a third is waste – that’s €21 billion wasted,” said
Dick Hendriks, chairman of the governing
council of the technology platform.
Dick Hendriks: “Of the €211 billion annual value of textiles in Europe, €21 billion is wasted on unwanted products
with a doubtful environmental and social profile.” “These new developments give us
enormously powerful new tools, which, given
This will all change, he predicted. “As these things change, there’s absolutely the necessary level of industrial commitment,
“We currently have very successful instal- no reason why the technology can’t win will change the rules of the game as we know it
lations running in Spain for digitally printing economically in industrial-textile applications. today, especially in the more conventional
ceramic tiles at speeds of 24 metres a minute As important as anything is that there are clothing and interior-textile markets.
and widths of 1.2 metres,” he said. “It was a huge ecological benefits in respect of multi- “A quantum leap in automation, highly
big challenge to ensure the nozzles worked functional finishing that is both scalable and efficient and flexible functionalisation and
perfectly all the time at that speed, but it has consistent. Inkjet will allow the textile industry customisation in the development and
been achieved. to become very selective and it’s now a very production of textiles and apparel, combined
“As far as the cost of ink is concerned, stable process.” with intelligent logistic and service concepts,
companies are trying to take the huge margins can allow Europe to regain its global
they enjoy in the inkjet desktop-publishing Further Funding leadership. It can reverse the current
market, but this will change as industrial-scale Following the success of these key projects, commoditisation trends, which clog our
demand accelerates. There’s also the issue of the European Technology Platform for the supply chains and distribution systems with
XY overprinting to compensate for errors, which Future of Textiles and Clothing is to seek cheap and often ultimately unwanted
will shortly be eliminated due to the increased around €100 million in further funding, in a products, with a doubtful environmental and
accuracy of the printheads. bid to build the most advanced, automated social profile.” ID
Lectra Announces
High-Speed Isis Enhanced Kaledo
CAD/CAM company Lectra has announced a
Installed in Italy new version of its Kaledo professional textile-

design software platform, including the new
Vector FX Extended range.
Fashion Application for Long Awaited Printer Known as Kaledo (V2R1), the latest software
is claimed to offer opportunities to enhance
The first super-fast Isis digital-fabric tional Cha Group, based in Hong Kong, performance when dealing with extremely
printer, from Osiris Digital Prints, of the and the Veronelli family. It will initially run large repeats, and to achieve more accurate
Netherlands, has been installed and is the Isis alongside its suite of three colour management for improved colour
running at its new location in Italyl. Monna Lisa textile printers and smaller communication throughout the supply chain.
The Isis can print more than 1,700 sq Mimaki and d.gen machines. The suite also provides many new and
m/hour at 144dpi, on fabric up to Osiris managing director Rob Morskate improved tools, including multicolour, space-
160cm wide, using continuous print will describe the Maver application during dye and fancy yarns, for the development of
heads built by the French company, the forthcoming FESPA Digital Textile complex knits and woven fabrics.
Imaje. After an extended development Conference, May 12-13, in Amsterdam. Lectra says benchmark tests show that,
period since it was announced at ITMA With a starting price around €3 million, compared to previous versions, Kaledo Print
2003, the first 8-colour machine has the Isis is designed to print on fabric (V2R1) performs over 50% faster when
been commissioned at the premises of without pretreatment and using only manipulating repeats, especially with very
Maver Srl, in Fenegro, Como, where it slightly modified screenprinting inks. large files. In addition, its offers considerable
will be used for printing high-fashion, Osiris calculates that it is more timesavings compared to the earlier U4ia.
high-volume fabrics. economical than rotary screenprinting for The new Kaledo (V2R1) design suite will be
Maver is a joint venture by the multina- runs between 100 and 1,500 metres. available this summer.
J-Teck:Layout 1 01/05/2009 09:30 Page 1
Digital Printing
Kornit Showcases Dark Polyester

Kornit Digital, which manufactures a range of temperature curing while maintaining extremely overcoming the difficulties involved with dark-
high-speed direct-to-garment (DTG) printers, high durability and wash fastness, and with its polyester DTG printing, Kornit has once again
has revealed a new solution for printing on proprietary pre-treatment wetting solution paved the way into a new era.”
dark polyester. creating a sealed printing surface, it is able to Kornit's dark-polyester printing application will
The company says a new and innovative produce full 4-colour-process prints on dark be presented for the first time at FESPA Digital,
software application for enhanced workflow and polyester applications, without altering the in Amsterdam.
production, combined with its automatic- chemistry in any way. Kornit 932NDS
wetting pretreatment process, means 100% "With this new

dark-polyester fabrics can now be printed ground-breaking
digitally with the Kornit 931DS and Kornit application added
932NDS industrial digital inkjet printers, using to the company's
Kornit's existing ink technology. portfolio, Kornit
Kornit says dark polyester has been known Digital supplies
for its limited capacity to absorb heat, due to customers a
dye-migration side effects – a chemical unique and all-
process where the dye in the fabric sublimates inclusive solution
under high temperatures and migrates into the that other
ink layer. The main challenge facing the DTG companies have yet to
market in this particular area is curing dark offer," said Sarel
polyester by heat without having it result in a Ashkenazi, vice-president of
discoloration of the print. marketing and business
But the company claims that, with its own development. "We believe
‘superior’ water-based ink, formulated for low- that by successfully
European Release of Gandi

New Nassenger Celebrates
Konica Minolta IJ Technologies has new printer enables the reproduction of a
Landmark
announced the official launch of its wide range of tones. To secure high At the ISA Show in Las Vegas, in April,
Nassenger VII high-speed inkjet textile productivity, it is equipped with a high- Gandinnovations was celebrating the
printer, equipped with newly developed capacity ink tank that can hold ten litres of manufacture of its 2,000th printer.
high-performance inkjet printheads. Sales each colour. The in-line degassing unit "This is really a monumental occasion,"
of the printer were scheduled to begin in incorporated in the ink-supply system said James Gandy, president of
the European market in mid-April. ensures greater stability during long hours technology and engineering, ahead of
The new Nassenger VII is characterised of operation. Capable of printing on a the event. “I was there when the first
by newly developed 512-nozzle high- maximum fabric width of 1,850 mm, the printer came off the line five years ago
speed-drive inkjet printheads to deliver a Nassenger VII is also said to be suitable for and I'll be there to see the 2,000th
maximum print speed of 210 sq m/hour – printing fabrics for curtains and bed linens. printer roll off the line in early April. We
more than three times faster than its Konica Minolta says its exclusively work extremely hard to ensure that
predecessor, the Nassenger V. Konica developed acid and reactive inks satisfy its every printer we produce is of
Minolta says this makes it one of the own stringent safety standards and exceptional quality.”
fastest inkjet textile printers in the world. It overseas safety regulations and are safe During the show Gandinnovations
is aimed at printers whose work typically for human health. They contain no demonstrates its three newest models -
involves short-run production of a variety carcinogenic materials, making them safe the Aquajet, the eco-friendly Jeti 3348
of styles. for use by operators. UV RTR Jetspeed and the Jeti 1224
Equipped with a multi-gradation The Nassenger VII will be demonstrated Nanojet.
recording mode to control droplet size, the at FESPA Digital, in Amsterdam.
Digital Printing
Condé Launches CafePress

Transfer Printer International Move
CafePress is the latest major US Internet supplier of
US manufacturer custom-printed merchandise to strengthen its
Condé Systems has international footprint.
introduced the The company has launched a UK website,
DyeTrans RJ-900 www.cafepress.co.uk, with products priced in both
printer, described as pounds and euros, and has introduced speedier interna-
a fast, professional tional shipping options. Similar expansion has taken
sublimation-transfer place in Australia and Canada.
inkjet printer at an Launched in 1999, CafePress allows its users to design,
exceptional price buy and sell printed merchandise such as T-Shirts, mugs
point. and bumper stickers. Best known for its T-Shirt sales, it
The printer claims to offer one of the world’s largest selections of
incorporates a new- user-designed products, bought, sold and shipped
generation ‘Wide Condé DyeTrans RJ900 worldwide. Its international business grew 30% in 2008.
Model’ print head, “We continue to see new interest in CafePress pop
with 4 colours and 360 nozzles/colour, The DyeTrans RJ-900 offers a up around the globe and we’re ecstatic over our
which enable printing at 2880 dpi. It is maximum media size of 44in with international growth in 2008,” said vice-president of
claimed to deliver superior line sharpness print width of 41in. With its marketing Amy Maniatis. “This new site will provide
and photographic quality with continuous dedicated Wasatch SoftRIP and our UK community a significantly more user-friendly
tones, smooth transitions and a wide Condé ICC Profiles, it can print 178 experience and we can’t wait to see what new
colour gamut. It is also equipped with a sq ft/hour in 360dpi 2-pass mode product designs emerge!”
maintenance-mirror mechanism that and offers USB and Ethernet The expansion follows a similar move last year by the
simplifies print-head maintenance. 100BASE-TX/10BASE-T connectivity. company’s major rival, Zazzle.com.
Machinery & People:News.qxd 06/05/2009 11:35 Page 43
Machinery & Services
New REACH Testing Service E-Beam

Consumer ‘Has Right to SVHC Data’ Wastewater Study
The UK’s Shirley Technologies has launched a request information on the levels of SVHC for An environmental project in Sri Lanka will examine the
new service for textile companies to test for products bought from a retailer. The retailer potential for treating dyeing wastewater with electron
substances of very high concern (SVHCs) in now had a legal obligation to reply within 45 beams, both to remove discolouration and top
garments, fabric, sewing thread, accessories days to the consumer, informing him if the destroy organic impurities.
and any other component in the supply product he had purchased had any of these The Atomic Energy Commission, in co-operation with
chain. The service is in response to new EU substances in it. the Central Environmental Authority, is conducting a
REACH regulations. “The service can help protect organisations feasibility study into the treatment of wastewater by
“For EU-based companies it is their responsi- within the supply chain - be they a means of an Electron Beam Facility. The International
bility to ensure any textile products including manufacturer or a retailer - and will help to Atomic Energy Agency, in Vienna, has agreed to
chemicals used in manufacture, whether they legally enforce the banning of certain provide technical assistance for technology transfer
have been produced outside or within the EU, substances that can cause serious harm to both and an expert. Dr Bumsoo Han from Korea is in Sri
have been evaluated to ensure they are REACH humans and the environment,” said Asif Shah. Lanka to carry out the study and to create awareness
compliant,” said Asif Shah, of Manchester- “There is a list of 15 substances that are of the technology among industrialists.
based Shirley Technologies. “If you are a textile currently considered to be SVHC – and which Dr Bumsoo Han was earlier associated with a pilot
company based outside of the European Union will be rigorously monitored if being used or plant for treating 1,000m3/day of dyeing wastewater
then you are obliged to inform your EU based sold within the EU.” with an e-beam that had been constructed and
buyers on the status of SVHC within products Shirley Technologies Ltd (STL) is a UKAS operated since 1998 in Daegu, Korea, together with a
that are supplied to them. (United Kingdom Accreditation Service), biological treatment facility.
“Our new service will test to determine accredited laboratory, providing independent The Electron Beam facility treats the polluted water
whether the products they are producing textile testing, certification, advisory and with help of an e-beam and is claimed to help both in
contain SVHCs and issue them with a certificate investigation services across the traditional and decolourising the water and in oxidising organic
which will show their SVHC status.” specialist textile industries. It is an independent impurities, with a reduction in treatment time and an
Shirley Technologies said the new EU law also subsidiary of BTTG Ltd, formerly the British increase in flow-rate limit of 30-40%.
empowered consumers by allowing them to Textile Technology Group.
Digital Textile is the world’s only magazine dedicated wholly to textile applications in
the rapidly developing field of digital printing. Delivering vital information for both users
and suppliers in the industry’s three major segments – traditional textiles, flags &
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JUNE 2009 43
Machinery & People:News.qxd 06/05/2009 11:36 Page 44
People in the news
The AATCC has announced the International Conference. First

David Repper, managing director winners of its fifth annual place winners will also receive a
of UK-based textile-testing- C2C/CITDA design competition, complimentary copy of Pantone’s
instrument company James H. developed by its Concept 2 Color Passport. The first place
Heal Ltd, is celebrating 40 years Consumer® Interest Group and winner of the Product Design
with the business. Mr Repper, a the Computer Integrated Textile category is eligible to compete
textile graduate from Leeds Design Association. The theme for the SDC International Colour
University, joined the firm in of this year’s design competition and Textile Award.
1969 and took the helm from his was Color Concepts.
father, the late Harry Repper, in Winners were:
1982. Over the years, he has Fabric Design – 1, ‘Let Freedom
been responsible for the Reign’, by Miranda Shilati,
company’s continuous Syracuse University; 2, ‘Pattern
investment in the latest design in Architecture’, by Eleanor
and manufacturing technologies, Hoffman, North Carolina State
working in close consultation with many leading retailers, test houses and University. Dan Williams, of Prism
customers throughout the world. Product Design – 1, ‘Footsteps Instruments, in Pickering,
Heal’s portfolio of equipment now encompasses fabric and colour- Maternity’, by Erika Neumayer, Ontario, Canada, has joined
fastness testing instruments and Quality Assured Consumables, while Dominican University; 2, ‘Sweet the expanding SDL Atlas
its dedicated service and calibration division, HEALINK, offers UKAS Snowflakes’, by Wesley Kathryn network of sales represen-
calibration throughout the world on a wide range of testing Woods, Auburn University. tatives and will promote SDL
instruments. In 1995 Heal’s won the prestigious Queen’s Award for Winners will receive cash Atlas lines of colour-
Export for their outstanding achievements in the export market. awards of $1,000 for first place measurement and evaluation
The management and staff have sent best wishes and expressed and $500 for second place, and units and other company
gratitude for Mr Repper’s passion and dedication. complimentary student products throughout Canada.
registration for the 2010 AATCC
The Monthly Web Magazine on Environment and Ethics in Textile Sourcing
The New Eco-Electronic Newsletter

for Buyers, Specifiers and Sourcing Executives in the Textile Field
IMPACT is a must for buyers, specifiers and sourcing executives in the textile field.
Issues reported on include ‘eco’ products, fair trade, employment standards, ethical
brands and retail strategy, PLUS new technologies that strive to create textiles that
respond to growing consumer demand in this area.
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Email: spritchard@world-textile.net
SDC:SDC.qxd 01/05/2009 14:20 Page 45
SDC Notes
SDC gets new president
Dr Mike Bartle, new president of the SDC, with Nancy

Taplin, winner of the UK final of the SDC Global Design
Competition Dr Bartle (right centre), with Chris Sargeant, (SDC vice-president fashion/design) and the UK competition finalists
AFTER ONE of the most eventful twelve months in performance fabrics, as group operations director
the Society’s recent history, Sue Williams has – a post he held until his retirement. During this Global finalists
ended her year as president to be succeeded by last phase of his career he was principally India (grand final host country):
Dr Mike Bartle, a member of the SDC since 1974. concerned with establishing off shore activities, Mr C S Balaji, PSG College of Technology,
Born in Great Ayton, North Yorkshire, Dr Bartle especially in Egypt, where he set up Anglo Textiles SDC Tirupur Region; Ms Bijal Vora, Nirmala
Niketan College, SDC Mumbai Region
was educated at St Mary’s College, employing 350 people in three factories.
Middlesbrough. He then joined the polyester Dr Bartle was awarded the Society’s Silver Medal Australia: Ms Angelina Anderson, TAFE
production unit at ICI Wilton which fostered a in 1999 for services to the West Riding Region and NSW Sydney Institute
life-long interest in textile dye chemistry. A four the SDC Colour Centre. A Fellow of the Society, he Bangladesh: TBC
year part-time course at Teesside Polytechnic also serves on the Court of the Worshipful China: Ms Xiyue Zhao, Jiangnan University
followed and he became a graduate of the Royal Company of Dyers, a City Livery Company dating
Hong Kong: Ms Wong Chau-Hung, Hong
Institute of Chemistry. back to at least 1188. He is the 88th president of
Kong Design Institute
He then moved to Sketchley Ltd, a large the Society of Dyers and Colourists.
dyehouse and drycleaners, as a works chemist. Pakistan: Ms Nadia Munir Khan, Iqra
University, Islamabad
Whilst at Sketchley’s he developed an interest in Winners announced
textile colouration that prompted him to return to South Africa: Ms Moipone Qekisi, Nelson
the laboratory to undertake research into the Shortly before the president’s inaugural Mandela Metropolitan Technikon
chemistry of azo dyes at St Andrew’s University speech at the Day of Celebration Dinner, the UK: Ms Nancy Taplin, Colchester School of
that led to a PhD. Society announced the winner of the UK final Art & Design
After St Andrew’s, Dr Bartle joined of the 2009 SDC Global Design Competition
USA: Ms Erika Neumayer, Dominican
Blackburn-based J B Martin Velvets where he as Nancy Taplin from Colchester School of Art
University in Chicago, Illinois
worked for several years and was involved in & Design. All 10 country finalists will now go
the acquisition of another velvet company by on to compete in the grand final in Goa,
the Rivington Reed Group. After the collapse India, where the global winner will be More information:
Secretariat secretariat@sdc.org.uk
of the Group he bought the company himself announced on 26 June 2009. The competition
Membership members@sdc.org.uk
which was subsequently renamed Pendle is intended to encourage the inspired use of Patron Scheme patron@sdc.org.uk
Velvets (Accrington). colour in fashion or textiles and, for the first Technical & Training tech@sdc.org.uk
SDC www.sdc.org.uk
Six years later he was invited to join the time, students were asked to incorporate
SDC Enterprises www.sdcenterprises.co.uk
Bradford-based Lister Group in Bradford, sustainable thinking into their designs. ColourClick www.colourclick.org.uk
working in various factories around the country The Society also announced the winner of the Colour: Design & Creativity www.colour-journal.org
Colour Experience www.colour-experience.org
where he gained first hand experience in hand AIC2013 Congress Logo Competition sponsored
knitting and industrial yarns, silk weaving and jointly by the SDC and The Colour Group (Great Tel: +44 (0) 1274 725138
Fax: +44 (0) 1274 392888
printing, including furnishing fabrics such as Britain). The competition was won by Mr Karol
velvets for drapes and upholstery. Domagalski from Bucks New University and the For a complete list of membership benefits and current
In 1994 Dr Bartle joined Cloverbrook Ltd, a weft winning design will now be adopted and used in all subscription rates, telephone +44 (0) 1274 725138
or email members@sdc.org.uk
knitter, dyer and printer of sportswear and promotional materials for the event.
JUNE 2009 45
ID June 09 Classified:ID January 09 Classified.qxd 06/05/2009 09:20 Page 46
International Orders to: Jon Bloom, International Dyer Classifieds,
Dyer Perkin House, 1 Longlands Street, Bradford, West Yorkshire, BD1 2TP, Great Britain.
Tel: +44 (0)1274 378824 • Fax: +44 (0)1274 378811 • E-mail: jbloom@world-textile.net
Spares, Parts, Accessories & Services, Machinery for Sale
DEADLINE DATES
JULY 2009 AUGUST 2009
Copy: 25TH MAY Copy: 22ND JUNE
Published: 22ND JUNE Published: 20TH JULY
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Adding colour improves your advert

International To advertise contact Jon Bloom
Dyer t: +44 (0) 1274 378824 f: +44 (0) 1274 378811
e: jbloom@world-textile.net
D y e i n g F i n i s h i n g P r i n t i n g C o a t i n g
ID June 09 Classified:ID January 09 Classified.qxd 06/05/2009 09:20 Page 47
For a categorised listing of more than 3,500 pieces of used

textile equipment, visit www.textilemachines.info
Machinery
Spares, for Accessories
Parts, Sale & Services, Machinery for Sale
Volksbadstraße 85, D-41065

Mönchengladbach, P.O. Box 100807,
D-41008 Mönchengladbach
Phone: ++49 (0) 2161 492680
Telefax: ++49 (0) 2161 48544
Internet: http://www.kruckels.com
e-mail: josef@kruckels.com
J O S E F K RÜ C K E L S T E X T I L M A S C H I N E N G M B H
F i rs t A d d r e s s fo r S e c o n d H a n d
- 13 warp knitting machines MAYER ·12 SULZER PU 153” ·Compactor FERRARO
·THIES Ecosoft 480 kg ·Knotting machine USTER Ustermatic/FISCHER POEGE
with following details:
·Emerizing machine SPEROTTO ·Thermic Oil Heater, 200.000 to 1 Mio. Kcal
KS-2, 130" wide, 18 E gauge, Y.O.M. 1979 ·Laboratory calander ·1 Nonstop-Upwinding Device, like new!
KS-2, 130" wide, 28 E gauge, Y.O.M. 1979 ·Liquor coating unit MENZEL Optimax ·15 Winding machines for sewing threads
·3 Centrifuges KRANTZ ·Cylinder dryer, 270 cm wide, 20 cylinders
KS-3, 168" wide, 28 E gauge, Y.O.M. 1981 ·350 shafts for SOMET looms, 220 cm ·2 Yarn reeling machines CROON & LUCKE
KS-2, 130" wide, 28 E gauge, Y.O.M. 1978 ·Continuous tumbler 220cm ·big quantity of laboratory equipment
·Weft straightener MAHLO ·Hydro-extractor for knitwear
KS-2, 130" wide, 28 E gauge, Y.O.M. 1979 ·2 Friction calender ·Washing compartments KÜSTERS Rotojet, up to 320cm ww
KS-4, 136" wide, 24 fine gauge, Y.O.M. 1986 ·HT-Cone dyeing machines, 1-550 kg ·High frequency dryers KRANTZ
·Foulard KÜSTERS, 320 cm ·Yarn steamer WELKER, made in 1991
HKS-2, 130" wide, 28 E gauge, Y.O.M. 1985
·4-bay stenter ARTOS; 1986, MAHLO weft straightener,cloth ·Sample twisting machine VOLKMANN VTS07
HKS-2, 130" wide, 28 E gauge, Y.O.M. 1985 width 1600mm ·Sample jigger
HKS-2, 168" wide, 28 E gauge, Y.O.M. 1985 ·Open-width washing machine WET-TEX, 1994, 160 cm working width ·10 A-frames 300 cm wide
·autom. dye kitchen STORK ·Cord braiding machine
HKS-2, 130" wide, 28 E gauge, Y.O.M. 1989 ·various stainless steel tanks, 50-4000 l ·Inspection machine UNGLAUB, 200cm, for high-elastic fabric
HKS-2, 130" wide, 36 E gauge, Y.O.M. 1989 ·Cone sectional warper HACOBA USK 1000 electronic ·Coating/Laminating machine MACHTEX
·Sectional warper HOLLINGSWORTH 1994 ·Raising machine LAMBERTI, 320cm WW
KS-3, 130" wide, 18 fine, Y.O.M. 1998 ·Tearer for Recycling ·Foulard KÜSTERS, 400cm wide
HKS-3-M, 130" wide, 24 E gauge, Y.O.M. 2000 ·Sanfor-Shrinking-Plant MONFORTS + COMFIT 180cm ·Polrotor SISTIG
·Sample Warpers ·Warp knitting machines
For further information about our company and a complete oversight of our current sales range please visit our website:
www.kruckels.com
Advertisers Index
Manufacturer of stenter pin plates,
pinned wheels, stenter and industrial brushes.
Suppliers of new and reconditioned Avocet Dye & Chemical Co. Ltd..................Back Cover
stenter chain and pin carriers.
Machine knives and blades for the BASF South East Asia Pte.Ltd. ........Inside Front Cover
Finishing and Carpet Industries.
Clariant International Ltd........................................11
PLEASE VISIT OUR NEW WEBSITE
www.jwstead.com DMG World Media....................................................3
Tel: +44 (0) 1274 597814 Fax: +44 (0) 1274 532177
E-mail:info@jwstead.com Fortex srl ................................................................37
J Teck 3 Srl........................................Front Cover & 39
Jaysynth (Europe) Ltd ............................................42
Konica Minolta IJ Technologies, Inc ..............................36
Sawgrass Europe ....................................................41
a gap Stork Digital Imaging B.V. ......................................40
in the Tanatex Chemicals BV ............................................35

et
mark Techaids ................................................................28
Thies GmbH & Co. ....................................................6
International
D y e i n g F i n i s h i n g P r i n t i n g C o a t i n g
Dyer
For further details on how to advertise in this space contact Jon Bloom: P r i n te d a t T h a n et P re s s L t d . , U n i o n C re s c e n t , M a rga te , Ke n t , C T 9 1 N U
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tel. +44 (0)1274 378824 or email: jbloom@world-textile.net 1 L o n g l a n d s St re et , B ra d fo rd , We s t Yo r k s h i re B D 1 2 T P. © 2 0 0 9 Wo r l d
Te x t i l e P u b l i c a t i o n s L t d .
JUNE 2009 47
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International Calendar of Events
Dyer Submit your event listing to: The Editor, International Dyer, World Textile Publications Ltd., Perkin House,
1 Longlands Street, Bradford, West Yorkshire, BD1 2TP UK. Tel: +44 1274 378800 Fax: +44 1274 378811
e-mail: jscrimshaw@world-textile.net Website: www.internationaldyer.com
MAY 2009 JULY 2009

12 - 13 FESPA Digital Textile Conference, RAI, 12 - 15 Shanghaitex 2009, Shanghai New 16 - 19 Textech International Expo 2009,
Amesterdam, The Netherlands. Conference International Expo Centre, Shanghai, international exhibition for garments &
on inkjet printing of textiles, in association PR China. textiles. China Friendship Conference Center,
with Digital Textile e-Broadcast. Website: www.adsale.com.hk/en Dhaka, Bangladesh.
Contact: FESPA. Tel. +44 1737 240788; E-mail: exhibition@adsale.com.hk Tel: +880 2 8812713
Fax +44 1737 240770; Fax: +880 2 9894573
Website: www.fespadigital.com Website: www.cemsonline.com/textech.html
16 - 18 Techtextil 2009, exhibition for technical
E-mail: cems@cemsonline.com
textiles, Frankfurt, Germany.
12 - 14 FESPA Digital Printing Europe, digital printing Contact: Messe Frankfurt. 16 - 19 Dhaka International Fabric Show 2009,
exhibition, RAI, Amsterdam, The Netherlands.
Tel. Tel: +49 69 7575-0 China Friendship Conference Center,
Contact: FESPA. Tel. +44 1737 240788; Dhaka, Bangladesh.
Fax: +49 69 7575-64 33
Fax +44 1737 240770; Website: www.cemsonline.com/difs.html
Web: www.techtextil.messefrankfurt.com
Website: www.fespadigital.com E-mail: cems@cemsonline.com
/global/en/home.html
19 - 20 Principles of Web Handling seminar, E-mail: info@messefrankfurt.com SEPTEMBER 2009
Birmingham, UK. 08 - 10 Caitme 2009. Central Asian International
Website: www.SeminarsForEngineers.com; 16 - 18 Avantex 2009, international forum and
Textile Machinery Exhibition, Uzexpocentre,
e-mail: info@SeminarsForEngineers.com; symposium for high-tech apparel textiles. Tashkent, Uzbekistan.
Tel. +1 973 560 9092 Contact: Messe Frankfurt. Tel: +998 71 113 01 80
Tel: +49 69 7575-0 Fax: +998 71 151 21 64
20 - 21 Introduction to Dyeing, Printing Fax: +49 69 7575-64 33 Website: www.textileexpo.uz/en/
& Finishing. 2-day training course, Website: www.techtextil.messefrankfurt.com/ E-mail: office@ite-uzbekistan.uz
Manchester, UK. global/en/home.html
Contact: Dinah Wharton, 16-18 48th Dornbirn Man-Made Fibers
E-mail: info@messefrankfurt.com Conference, Dornbirn, Austria.
University of Leeds.
Tel. +44 113 343 3758; Contact: Austrian Man-Made Fibers Institute,
e-mail: d.j.wharton@leeds.ac.uk 25 - 26 SDC International Conference, Tel. +43 (0)5572 36850.
‘Sustainability in Coloration: Vision 2020’, Website: www.dornbirn-mfc.com
JUNE 2009 Goa, India.
Contact SDC: E-mail: info@sdc.org.uk NOVEMBER 2009
06 - 10 ITM 2009, international exhibition of textile 18-20 INDTEX 2009, new exhibition of textile
machinery. Tüyap Fair, Convention and technology. Bombay Exhibition Centre, NSE
Congress Center, Istanbul, Turkey. 30 - July 02 Fenit 2009, international textile industry
Complex, Mumbai, India.
Tel: +90 212 592 59 92 trade fair, Parque Anhembi, São Paulo, Brazil.
Contact: David Tellett
Fax: +90 212 599 38 82 Tel: +55 11 3060-5000 Tel. +44 (0)1727 814 400
Website: www.itm2009.com Fax: +55 11 3060-5001 Fax. + 44 (0)1727 814 401
E-mail: info@itm2009.com E-mail: info@alcantara.com.br e-mail: indtex@mackbrooks.com
The World’s Premier Monthly Trade Publication

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MARCH 2009
AVOCET AD:AVOCET AD.qxd 01/05/2009 11:52 Page 1
Avocet Dye & Chemical Co Ltd

Birds Royd Lane, Brighouse
West Yorkshire, England HD6 1LQ
Tel: +44 (0)1484 401221
Fax: +44 (0)1484 401844
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Front Cover red:Front Cover.

qxd 06/05/2009 11:46 Page 1

International friendly and safe digital products, using

PAGE 10 PAGE 20 PAGE 24

2 COMMENT 22 TEXTILES & SUSTAINABILITY

7 LOCAL COLOUR 24 PREVIEW - ITM

10 DYES & CHEMICALS NEWS 29 RESEARCH: SILK PRINTING

CHINA: Michael Hay

Subscriptions (11 issues)

© 2009 World Textile Publications Ltd.

In association with Incorporating Official media partner Organised by

US Army Awards Fire

Organic Tin Ecolabel

Digital Finishing at Heart of

Massive Textile Nanotech

Government Relief The ‘mapping study on regulation and governance of nanotech-

Aid for Spanish Mills

Technology Adivarekar, India

THE PAST few years have indeed been a

Continued from page 7

Continued from page 8

Dyes & Chemicals News

Sawgrass Pigment Inks ‘Revolutionary’ system to give 50-wash durability.

Our textiles’ expertise delivers outstanding effects.

Clariant International Ltd, Rothausstrasse 61, 4132 Muttenz, Switzerland, www.textiles.clariant.com

Technical Briefing: Plasma Technology

carried out in-line. By contrast, the low-

and also ‘addition’ treatments of various

• Activation: (temporary) increase of surface

Technical Briefing: Plasma Technology

Table 3: Oleophobic process for polyester fabric: comparison of environmental impact

Plasma 0.4 1.22 0.19 0.26

Technical Briefing: Finishing Machines

WITH THE increasing pressures resulting

Technical Briefing: Finishing Machines

Controlled pick-up and maximum

Pre-washing units for optimised

Technical Briefing: Novel Effects

Technical Briefing: Novel Effects

Bleach Bath Accelerator

(a) Due to the catalytic action of Sarableach

Coated Membrane for Propex

Advanced Textiles Partnership

More Drifire Functional Spunbond

Putting the Squeeze

Table 1: Resilio Roll Cost Savings • Greatly improved ‘gentle’ squeezing

East Meets West • Uniquely developed compound blends

RHL also manufactures the well-known

Continued from page 23

Textiles & Sustainability

Invista 9,000 fewer cases of upper and

Pays Up The settlement resolves violations

likely to cause a slowing of

Research: Silk Printing

Printing the ‘Queen of

NATIONAL AND international awareness of the

Research: Silk Printing

had a DL value of –1.284, which was