BASICS OF SNARING

Unless an animal has a good reason to act to the contrary it will take the path of least resistance.  This principle is
what makes snaring so effective.   In areas where coon, fox or coyote exist, find a path, gully, log crossing, fence,
dugout, culvert or other features that restrict the LINE OF TRAVEL and place a snare DIRECTLY IN THE CENTER
OF THE LINE OF TRAVEL. Fox, coon and coyote meet hundreds of small obstacles such as branches, weeds or
vines every time they travel and will walk right into a snare as if it were just another weed or branch.  They have no
idea they are in trouble until it is too late.

Fast, easy and effective.

Groundhog, Opossum      5-6” diameter loop              2” off the ground

Fox                                   8” diameter loop                  8” off the ground

Bobcat                             8" diameter loop                  8" off the ground

Coon                               6-8” diameter loop               3-5” off the ground

Coyote                            10-12”diameter loop            10-12” off the ground

Wolverine                        8" diameter loop                  8" off the ground

Beaver                           10”diameter loop                  2-3” off the ground

Wild Hog                        up to 18" diameter loop       10-12" off the ground

Wolves                          18" diameter loop                 10-12" off the ground

Stake snares down better than you would stake a trap, because your catch will be pulling with all four legs.

Swiveled Snare Shop Snares have swivels that fit easily on either 3/8" of 1/2" rebar stakes.  The entire lock and
snare loop can also be slipped through the swivel to function as a tree lock or an adjustable snare tie off. 

CHOOSING THE RIGHT SNARE

Step 1: State Regulations - It is your responsibility to know and abide by your state's regulations. We have provided
links for all the states, where you can find requirements and restrictions. The links are located at the bottom of this
page under the Customer Service tab.

Step 2: Cable Selection - There are many different types, sizes, constructions and lengths of cable to choose from.

Type of Cable: There are many different types of cable out there, all with different qualities, characters, and uses.
When the Old Timers were first exploring the land they used whatever was available to them; vines, horse hair, etc,
but times have changed and there are a lot better options out there for the trappers of the new century!

Galvanized Aircraft Cable - This is a steel cable that has been galvanized. Galvanized is a process that puts a thin
layer of protecting zinc on the cable, this zinc retards the rusting process and give the cable a sort of shiny
appearance. Galvanized Aircraft Cable (GAC) is the most popular type of cable used in the snaring industry today
Stainless Steel Cable – This is what it says, stainless steel cable. This cable will not rust, and is stronger than GAC,
but not completely chew resistant. It is a lighter shade of gray than the GAC, and is normally used in maritime
regions that deal with salt water.

Cable Construction: How cable is constructed affects almost every characteristic about the cable. It will determine
flexibility, smoothness, strength, weight, etc. Cable construction should be chosen with diameter of cable, different
construction may allow you to choose a smaller diameter cable, etc. 

7x7 – Made for use when extreme flexibility is not necessary. It can be used in aircraft and automotive controls,
agriculture applications, etc. In snaring, this cable is the most popular. Trappers use it for snares, extension cables,
drowners, to connect earth anchors, etc.

7x19 – Made for extreme flexibility, it’s the strongest of the three constructions we have available, and is not as prone
to kinks. Common uses for this cable include; rigging in sail boats, winches, exercise equipment, garage doors, etc.
In snaring this cable is usually used for large animal foot snares (bear, hog), drowners, and extensions. It is usually
not used for neck snares because its flexibility forms a tear-drop loop. 

1x19 – This is a stiff, smooth cable and is strong, it tends to kink somewhat easily. It can be used for standing rigging,
guying applications, etc. In snaring this cable is used mainly for dispatch snares, and is very fast when “loaded”. The
stronger cable will allow you to choose a smaller diameter cable and still be able to hold the bigger animals.

Cable Diameter: The diameter of the cable can be determined by your target animal and construction of cable.

      1/32” - Squirrel, Pine Marten, etc

      3/64” - Mink, Squirrel, Rabbit, etc

      1/16” - Bobcat, Fox, Rabbit, Ground Hog, Opossum, etc

                 (Some trappers will use a 1x19 1/16” cable for coyotes with a

                  dispatch spring and kill pole)

      5/64” - Bobcat, Fox, Raccoon, Coyote (1x19), etc

      3/32” - Raccoon, Coyote, Fox, Beaver, Badger

               -Wolf (1x19)                                                                                   

               - Most popular size for snaring, very versatile

               - Also used for drowners, earth anchors, extensions, etc

      7/64” - Coyote, Bear Cub, Small Alligator, Wild Hog, Wolf

      1/8”   - Coyote, Bear, Alligator, Wild Hog, Wolf           

                - Earth anchors, drowners

      5/32” - Bear, Alligator, Wild Hog

      3/16” - Large Bear

               - Foot Snares

 

Cable Length: Different situations call for different lengths of snares.

      30” - Mink, Squirrel, Rabbits, etc

             - Smaller animals require smaller loops and the cable can be quite

               a bit shorter to eliminate excess.

      33 ½” - Beaver or fox.

                - This makes a 10” loop, and most snares like this are designed for

                   a bait pole or have wire attached for fox.

      42” - 48” - Raccoon, Fox, Bobcat, Badger, Rabbit, Opossum, Ground Hog

                     - Fence line

                     - Road ditch snaring, leaves smaller burn

      5’ - Raccoon, Fox, Beaver, Coyote

          - Most popular length

          - will work in trail sets, ditches, fence lines, etc, very versatile

      7’ - Coyote, Beaver, Wild Hog

      8’ - Wolf, Wild Hog

     10’ - Bear, Alligator, Wild Hog

Step 3: Anchoring End – To determine what type of end you want on your snare, you should know what type of
anchoring system you will be using. Whether you prefer to use a rebar stake, an earth anchor or a Pogo anchor, the
end on your snare can make attaching them a lot easier.

Adjustable Loop End: This loop can be adjusted bigger and smaller allowing you to loop it around a fence post, or
rebar stake. It also allows you to easily run the snare back through the loop to anchor to a tree, brush, etc. This type
of end has no swiveling action and tends to kink the cable badly when an animal is caught, but actually makes it work
better than a swivel in an entanglement situation (dispatch snares, kill poles).

Solid Loop End: A solid loop has many of the same qualities as an adjustable loop, except it can not be made bigger
or smaller. We put solid loops on our under-ice beaver snares; they can easily be nailed to a bait pole.

Swiveled End: Swivels are the most popular type of anchoring end. They allow the cable to turn with the animal as it
rolls and fights, which means less kinking. If you want to live catch anything a swivel is a must.

Combo Snare Ends/Tree Lock: Combo Ends can be used for many different things; swivel, adjustable loop end,
drowner lock, or in-line swivel. We don’t have any pre-made snares with these ends on them, but they can be custom
made, or you can put them on yourself if you like.
 

Step 4: Snare Lock – All snares must have some sort of locking mechanism to work. Whether it is a bent washer
lock, mechanical lock, or a knot in the cable, a lock is what closes down on the snared animal and holds it there.
Check your state’s regulations, some states have restrictions on what type of lock you can snare with.

Relaxing Lock: A relaxing lock will close down on the animal when they walk through the snare and are pulling on the
cable, but it will release the pressure off the cable once the animal stops pulling. Relaxing locks tend to be less
aggressive, but some newer locks, like the Micro Lock, are just as aggressive as the non-relaxing locks. A relaxing
lock should be used if you are trying to live catch an animal, and they greatly reduce fun damage commonly caused
by non-relaxing locks. (i.e. all of the washer locks, Micro Locks, Relax-a-locks)

Non-Relaxing Locks: A non-relaxing lock is designed to hold its position on the cable. When an animal is pulling and
fighting the snare, the non-relaxing lock will get tighter and tighter, and when the animal stops pulling the lock bites
into the cable and holds its position tight around the animal. These are great in dispatch sets, and entanglement
situations. (i.e. Berkshire Sure lock, BMI Locks, Grawe’s Bullet Locks, Gregerson Locks, Berkshire Modified L-Locks)

Mechanical Locks: These locks are a non-relaxing lock with moving parts. They are very aggressive, fast, and non
forgiving, but you can easily release them off an animal once they are dispatched, etc. (i.e. Cam-Locks & Amberg
Wedge Locks)

Step 5: Support Collar – The support collar is the device that attaches your snare to the support wire. The wire can
then be adjusted to the proper height and position in the trail.

Twist-On Support Collar: All our snares feature this support collar. They fit 3/64”-1/8” cable and 14ga - 9ga wire, so
no more wondering what size wire you have, these will fit on any wire you’ve got. To attach to your support
wire, twist the collar with a left hand thread. If you are holding the wire in your left hand and the collar in your right
hand, twist the top of the collar toward your body. These are fast when you’re out on the snareline and when you’re
building your own snares!

Wammy Support Collar: These are the old style of support collar. They are specific to cable size and wire gauge. To
attach to your support wire, simply plug the wire into the collar. Wammy Support Collars are a headache to keep
separate when you are building snares, but on the snareline go on fast.

Plastic Tubing: We do not offer plastic tubing on snares, but it is being used. It is usually just a 1” – 2” surgical tube
on the snare. To attach to the support wire, simply slide the wire into the tubing. We don’t like the tubing because in
cold weather it tends to crack and get bridle and not usable.

No Support Collar: You can opt to have no collar on your snares if you like. If you are setting them under a fence and
want to just us a piece of string to hold the loop up, or if you bend the support wire into a “W” and lace the snare
trough it for support, you don’t necessarily need the support collar.

Step 6: Deer Stop/Live Catch Stop – Is a stop placed on the inside of the loop that prevents the loop from closing
past a certain point.

Deer Stop: A standard deer stop makes a 2 ½” diameter loop. The deer stop allows a leg caught deer to pull its leg
back through the snare, and allows you to re-set the snare. Check your state’s regulations when it comes to deer
stops, some states require them, some don’t, and some have specific diameters the deer stop must be set at.
Live Catch Stop: A live catch stop is the same stop as a deer stop, it is just placed to make a bigger loop on the
snare. The standard live catch coyote stop is set at a 3 ½” diameter loop. This loop will not allow the coyote to
escape, but will make sure the snare doesn’t close too tightly on the coyote and choke it out. Most fox will be able to
escape from a snare with a live catch coyote stop; because the loop is too big and they can pull their head back
through the loop.  The standard live catch fox stop is a 2 ½” diameter, the same as a deer stop.

Step 7: Breakaway Device – A breakaway device is required in some states, so check your state’s regulations.
They can be a couple different things; S-hooks, J-hooks, Release Ferrules, or Breakaway Locks. They are devices
that are designed to “breakaway” at a certain poundage of strength; they can straighten out, or pull off the end of the
cable.

S-Hooks: An S-hook is an “S” shaped hook, usually made from a galvanized wire, with a pre-determined breaking
strength. These S-Hooks are designed to complete the loop, between the lock and the cable, when they breakaway
they straighten out releasing the loop and allowing the caught cow or deer go. S-Hooks work best with Cam-Locks or
Wedge Locks, because of how they lay on the cable.

J-Hooks: A J-hook is a “J” shaped hook, usually made from a galvanized wire, with a pre-determined breaking
strength. These J-Hooks are designed to complete the loop, between the lock and the cable, when they breakaway
they straighten out releasing the loop and allowing the caught cow or deer go. J-Hooks work best with washer locks
and Micro Locks, because of how they lay on the cable.

Release Ferrule: A release ferrule is a small stop placed behind the lock on the cable. When the animal pulls with
more force than the ferrules are rated for, the stop will pop off and release the loop and the animal. To properly use
release ferrules you must have the appropriate swag tool and compress the tool completely. If you do not follow
directions with release ferrules the breakaway poundage might end up way lower or higher than what they are
actually rated for.

Breakaway Locks: A breakaway lock is designed to “tear-out” at a pre-determined poundage. They started when
guys would drill or cut out locks for homemade breakaways, and now are tested and made by a manufacture. Some
states don’t accept breakaway locks as a breakaway device, so make sure you know your state’s regulations. (i.e.
Gregerson Locks, Grawe’s Mini-Mag Lock, NWRC Locks)

Step 8: Dispatch Spring – A dispatch spring is made to apply extra pressure on the lock. They are not legal in all
states, so be familar with your state's regulations. These work the best in entanglement situations.

Regular Dispatch Spring: These come in either 25# or 50# which is a measure of how much pressure is applied on
the lock. The spring is placed behind the lock on the cable.

Canadian Dispatch Spring/Stinger Spring: This spring looks like a tiny conibear spring. It is placed behind the lock on
the cable. It was made famous by Marty Senneker, from Canada.

Step 9: Ask Questions – Snaring all comes down the personal preference. Asking your neighbor trapper will never
hurt; he probably won’t give out his secrets, but almost always will tell you what doesn’t work! We are here to help to;
after you go through all this information, if you still can’t find what your are looking for, or don’t understand what
something is used for just give us a call. Talking to your local game warden can give you ideas too.
 

FOOT SNARES

NOT legal in all states - Please check your states regulations.

 COLLARUM

Canine specific capture device, great in urban areas.  Safe and humane tool.
Spring assisted, animal pulls on the bait that is attached to a trigger, fires the spring and the loop fires up around the
neck RAM POWER SNARES
These are spring assisted snares, very quick and humane kills
Great for fence lines, or in their line of travel

Mini Ram -  Mink

Ram #1- Coyote, Beaver, Fox, Lynx, Wolverine, Raccoon

Ram #2- Fox, Raccoon, Lynx

Ram Wolf Master - Wolf, Cougar, Bear, Wild Hogs

FREMONT HUMANE FOOT SNARE

BEAR

Designed to be placed in their walking path or next to a tree.  If placed next to a tree, use branches to make a “tepee” so they
have to step on the Fremont to get the bait which is hung at eye level back in the tepee. 
Once they step on the trigger, the spring fires a loop up around their foot.
Connect the opposite end to an extension or a tree.

            *Anchor as high as possible so the animal has less leverage

Spring becomes detached from snare after the catch is made

WILD HOG

Designed to be placed in their walking path.

When the hog steps on the trigger the spring fires a loop up around the hog’s leg.
Connect it to an extension and a tree. 

            *Anchor as high as possible so the animal has less leverage

Can be used for mountain lion

Spring becomes detached from snare after the catch is made

FOX

Used for live catching fox

Designed to be placed in their walking path
When the fox steps on the trigger the spring fires a loop up around the leg
Can be used for lynx also
Spring acts as a shock absorber after the animal is caught
 

M-15 BEAR FOOT SNARE

Connects to a 5 gallon bucket

Bear reaches in to retrieve bait in back of bucket, pulls on trigger, spring fires and cinches the loop around the foot
Connect the opposite end to an extension, and the extension to a tree. 

            * Anchor as high as possible so the animal has less leverage

BELISLE FOOT SNARE 

Designed to be put in the animals line of travel or at a bait station

The animal steps on the trigger and the spring fires a loop around the foot

 6” - Medium sized animals

 8” - Wolves and Coyote

12" - Bear

SNARE PARTS

Swivel - Allows snare to turn on stake. This prevents the cable from getting twisted and keeps the animal more
comfortable.

Support Collar - Often referred to as a wammy. After the snare loop is opened to the desired diameter the support
collar is slid next to the lock. A pigtail support or nine-gauge support wire is then plugged into the support collar. The
pigtail support or support wire is then bent to position the loop to the exact position desired.

Lock - Prevents the snare loop from opening after a catch is made.

Deer Stop - stops the snare loop from closing completely, thus allowing leg caught deer to escape.

Steel Cable Ends or Aluminum Stops -  are at each end of the snare cable, this holds everything together.

There are a lot of different options when it comes to snaring, it can be very overwhelming!

The top priority of the entire staff at The Snare Shop is to provide the best products and service possible. Call if we
can help in any way.

ADVANTAGES OF SNARING

Low Cost - Can buy dozens of snares for the same price of a few traps.   Less attractive to thieves

Versatile - The same snare can be used for fox, coyote, coon, badger, beaver, skunk or opossum.

Weather Proof - Rain, freezing weather, strong winds or snow will not hinder a snare's performance

Easy to use - Snaring is very simple.  Faster and easier then most trap sets
Selective - Small animals such as birds and mice will not be caught

Compact & Light - Over a hundred snares can be put in a 5 gallon bucket.  A dozen snares weighs very little and
can easily be carried in a hunting vest.

Natural - Catches many trap shy animals.  A snare loop looks like a weed or piece of grass to most animals.

Caution - Do not use snares where livestock are grazing. Use deer stops, a breakaway device or step-over sticks
when deer or livestock are present. 

Any Situation - Can use in any situation that a body gripping trap is used at a fraction of the cost.  They will increase
fox catches over the Conibear System for coon