BSA A10 Golden Flash 1950 Workshop Manual

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Instruction Manual for SA Golden Flash Mode! Ald S$ LTD., BIRMINGHAM, IL Divectors: Sik BReNAuo MockrK, gat, 10, (Clair Jokers em ACT. Diewssns, onan 0S. F Diane. oo YU trian A810 tines) Ve Bicwringhacn. Telephones: Viral Tetearamy wid Service, Spares and Repairs Department Tetcphoners Rising, VIC 2214 8 oe) _ SERV." Biemingham. ioe Eads veserve the right fo alter the designs or any tinal details of their manufactures al any Hine Wiout giving notice Apel, 159 Copyright BSA. Co. Lt, wensrs, Prin in Exgland. 1 USEFUL DATA. Petrol tank capacity fappess ve AL galls, Oil tank capacity : 1 gall, Gearbox capacity 1 pint Bore (mm). - : 70 Stroke fmm) 1. : : St Capacity (oe. . 646 Tappet clearances cold}, inlet and exhaust —O10in, “Compression ratio we BR to T Piston ri (mean) (compression) 13in, te + scraper) “Olin, + Opens 30° before take. Closes 70? after bale {exhaust}... Opens 65? hefire bide. Clyses 25° after tube. Lenition timing (see page 23)—piston distance before td.c, with points just opening 11 38in, Ping points yap (maximum) o1sin. (renimum) Ain, Gear ratios jsole) ‘Top 442 ‘Thivel : 5.36 Second 777 First tal (with sidecar) Top o 516 Thin - 6.26 Second 9.08 First : 13.3 Tyre sizes (inches) Front 2 25x19 Rear 8.50419 ‘Tyre pressures ip.s.i.} solo) Front 16 Rear : 7 (with sidecar) Frome 11) 22 Rear 18 Sidecar 18 Chain sizes Front ... 3in, Duplex, 80 inks Rear (solo) * tin.» tin. 100 Tinks Sidecar fin.» fin. 104 links Rear brake drum chainwheel fgloi 1.” 42 teeth with sidcear 49 teeth Carburetter jet o 170 Valves Gnlet and exhaust) |”) Stellite tipped Nir cleaner wee : . Vokes TA piston giving » compression ratiy af 728 0 1 ieSichokata to spectat etd 2 Oi THE TOOLKIT Carburetter spanaer Tyre iever Ring spanner ‘Spanner for general use Lucas magneto spanner Cylinder head bon spanner Grease gun O10" Tapper clearance gai SWITCH GEAR ANMETER AMR LEVER DIPPER SWITCH Hoon BUTTGA cWwTcH I SPEEDOMETER THROTILE TWIST GRIP (OPEN tH DIRECTION. PETROL oraseow) FILLER CAP. FOOT GEAR CHANGE REAR BRAKE. ay MAIN PETROL TAP KICKSTARTER RESERVE BETROL TAP. OW FILLER cAD Fig. 1. The Controls. THE CONTROLS. HANDLEBAR CONTROLS. Twist Grip Throttle. Controls engine speed. ‘To open throttle (to increase engine speed) turn grip towards rider. ull moverent is about one quarter of a thn. Front Brake. Hand lever on right bar, below twist grip throttle. Pull lever towards bar to apply brake and note that this operates front brake only. Air Lever. (On the right handlebar. Controls the additional supply of air to carburetter, allowing the mixture of air and petrol to be varied as conditions require. Move clockwise to open (to increase supply of air). ‘Lhe normal running position is fully open. Clutch Lever. Hand lever below left bar. Pull towards bar to declutch, ie., disengage the drive between the engine and the rear wheel. As the clutch lever is slowly released, the drive is restored gradually and without sudden jerks. Always declutch when changing gear. FOOT CONTROLS. Rear Brake Pedal. On left-hand side. Operates rear brake only. Foot Gear Change Pedal. On right-hand side. To engage first gear from the neutral position, the pedal is moved upwards. 5 Fo chang. ty a higher gear move the pedal down- wards. To change to a lower gear raise the pedal. The pelai automatically returns tu central position, reauy tur next gear change. Kickstarter Pedal, On right-hand side behind gear change pedal. Depressivn of this pedal rotates engine. See in structions on starting engire GENERAL. Petro! Taps. Located under rear end of tank. ‘They have one serrated knob and one hexagon knob. To turn petrol oft, serrated knob is pushed in. To turn petrol on, hexagon knob is pushed in. Both taps communicate with the main supply in the petrol tank, but if one tap only is used and the other left in the “off” position, a reserve is Jeft in the tank which can only be fed to the carburetter when the secur? tap is turned on. Lighting Switch. On panel at rear of headlamp. Controls lighting ‘of lamps as indicated on markings. Ignition Cut-out. Situated on the frame tube below the saddle, and quite conveniently placed for the rider's left hand, is the ignitior cutout button. Pressure on this for a second stops the engine, and it is useful for stopping if the throttle is set for a reliable tick-vver [see page 92) Ammeter. On top of headlamp, Enables rider to ses at ‘a glance whether dynamo is charging the batter ot whether battery is discharging, DRIVING. To Start the Engine. Set gear control in neutral position, 1e,, between first and second year positions If cold, first depress carburettor tiekler women tarily. Open twist grip control a small amount close the air lever, and then give kickstarter a zorous kick downwards. Note that while it is necessary to close the aie lever when starting from cold, this may ant be necessary when the engine is warm, and should certainly not be so if a restart is made after a short wait only. On some occasions, such as when the engine is not fully warmed up, or when it has cooled down a little during a temporary halt, it may require the air lever to be partly closed for starting, and the rider is advised to study this point During normal running the air lever should always be kept fully open, although a slight gain in power at low spceds on hills may sometimes be obtained if the lever is closed a very smail amount This is another point for the rider's investigation. ‘To Engage First Gear. Declutch and move geat change pedal 1peerds ty its limit. Tf difficulty is experienced in enga: first year when stationary, rock the machine back- wards and forwards, inaintaining slight pressure on the gear change pedal, until the gear is felt to engage. To Move Off. Open throttle slightly and gently release clutch Jever. As clutch engages open throttle a little furthe: To Change Gear (up). Disengage clutch and press gear change pedal downwards to its limit, at the same time closing the throttle. Engage clutch and revpen throttle together immediately after changing. Note.— Violent pressure on the gearchange pedal is neither necessary nor desirable. ‘To Change Gear (down). Disengage chitch, open throttle slightly, and raise gearchange pedal wpwards to its limit, all these operations being performed simultancously. Re-engage clutch immediately. Note.—When changing gear, either up or down, it is preferable—after moving pedal—to hold it in position with the foot until after the clutch has been re-engaged, when the gears will be felt to engage. HINTS ON “RUNNING-IN” A NEW MOTOR CYCLE, ‘The rider who has just purchased a new machine for the first time will do well to remember that all the hidden working parts are just as new as + 8 the enamel ami plating whieh he can sev, and that they must not be felly laden until thes well run-in. Pare This runniag-in is really the most important period in the life of the engine, and the bandting you give it during the early part of its life will determine the sort of service it will give you later. No matter what the maximum speed of your model may be, be content with a cruising speed of not more than 40-45 m.p.h, until you are satishert that the engine is really run-in. Tis maxima will then not disappoint you. Th you try te put it through its paces too sooa you will mn the risk of seizure and other troubles which may have a lasting effect on the engine, and, in any case, until it 3s really run in it will not be at is best. \ motor cycle engine is quite different from other tepes of machinery which give maximum service fren the moment they arc assembled. Tt is a power unit, relatively small and compact in size, running at very high speeds, handling a great deal of eat and developing an enormous amount of peer. So give your engine a chance to settle down during the first 1,000 miles of its life. Avoid sudden and sharp acceleration, especially awhen the engine is not pulling under load Do aot force it up hills in top gear, when a change down would case the lad. Carry out the periodical maintenance details described later with faithful regularity Do not let the oi! level in the tank get tun low. Economy in oil may prove very expensive at a later date, If you run consistently with the level 9 two low the cil may overheat, for you must re- member that the oil cools as well as lubricates, and a new engine tends to run a little hotter than one which is wetl -an-in After the first 250 miles drain and refill the tank with fresh oil and clean the filter (Fig. 2, page 12). Do this again at 1,000 miles and thereafter every 2,000 miles. Information regerding the correct grades of oil is given in the chart on page 34 and inside the back cover And one more tp that is worth while—have a sniall quantity of upper-cylinder lubricant added to the petrol cach time you fill up~or if this is difficult to obtain, add abont an egg-cup full of engine oil to every two gallons of petrol ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM. ‘The engine lubrication system {see Fig. 3) is of the dry sump type operated by a double gear pump, situated in the bottom of the timing case, ‘The oil flows from the tank—throngh a filter in the tank—to the supply portion of the pump, which delivers it past an automatic valve to the timing side main bearing and thence to the hollow crankshaft and the big-end bearings. After Inbricating the big-ends and circulating through the engine in the form of mist, the oil drains down through a filter in the bottom of the crankcase, from which it is drawn by the return, portion of the pump past another ball valve and delivered up the return pipe to the tank. “There is also an oi supply to the rocker box which is taken from the pump return pipe, and this 10 supply is fed through a vertical pipe at the cear tr banjo unions at the nearsite ends ut the rw ker spindles. \ pressure release valve (4, Fig. &) is interposed between the delivery side of the pump and the bigcend bearings. This is preset te control pressure in the supply system, anil it stub be examined peviedticall ensgre that it is operating freely aru not impede by the presence of even tiny particles uf Swern matter, ‘The construction of this valve os shew in the exploded view in Tig. a anc if ot is lis mantled, the parts should be thoroughly rinsed in petrol before reassembly. Note that both hesagens must be screwed right home and maile really Giebt say every 1,000 miles—-u To check the flow of pilin the lubricating system, remove the tank filer cap whilst the engine is running. Oi] should be seen issuing from the return pipe from the crankease. ‘The tank and crankease should be drained periodically, and replenished with clean oil (sce Perindical Maintenance, pase M4, Any restriction in the pressure release pipe in the tank will cause an inexease in pr the oil tank, and will result in leakage af nl at the filler cap, This can be put right by inserting a length of flexible wire into the pipe at its lower end {just in front of the rea: mudguard: and pushing the wire right up the pipe, thus clearing any obstruction ssnre inside ‘Tu remove the oil tank filter fur cleaning, remove the oil pipe banjo union plug at the bottom uf the tank, Lhe filter will come out with the plug. The filter should be placed in a can Jar cover it with petrol, and thoroughly washeil Hefure replacing make sure that it is quite dry nf petrol xe eneuzh 7 Ww PERIODICAL MAINTENANCE. WEEKLY. Cleaning. Obviously regular and thorough clean- ing will keep your machine lookingesmart and will help to retain both its new appearance and value. But it helps also to lengthen ity life and maintain eticiency if the leaning precess is carried out correetly. Toke special care to prevent dust and grit from working into suea parts as hubs, carburette magneto, dyname, brakes and gearbox, To rub dry and caked mmd from the frame, tank and mudguards means that the enamel on these parts will be subjected to an abrasive action which will quickly destroy the polish. Soak the sul first. and then float it off with copious supphes of Gean water sugplied cither with a hese or a sponge. If a hose is used, take care not to direct the stream of wate: directly on to the hub bearings, magneto, dynamo and. carburetter. When all dirt is semoved, dry and polish off with a clean duster. The engine and gearbox are best cleaned with a brush and paraffin, and then dried off with clean Tag. Oil Tank. Inspect level of oil at least once a week, Gil level should never be allowed to fal) Lelow the level mark on ontside of tank, When scpping-vp do not All the tank completely—leave aluut ene inch margin between the oil and top of tank. Tyres. Examine carefully for cuts and remove any flints or metallic scraps which may have be- come embedded in the tuber. Cheek pressures with a gange, and rectify if necessary. 4 Steering Head. Give two or three strokes of the grease Sum every week. Brake Pedal. Give a few drops of ail weekly, Saddle Nose Bolt. Give a few drops of vil wechly Control Rod Joints and Exposed Cables. ‘ive a few drops of oil weekly. Gearbox. Examine oil level and top up it neces: sary tu the level plug. EVERY 1,000 MILES. Hubs. Inject grease through nipples in centre uf hub. Do not over lubricate as grease may he forced on to the brake Tinings and cause inetfective brakes. Three or four strokes of the grease gun should be ample. DU NOT LUBRICATE WITH OTT. Rear Suspension (when fitted). A few strokes of the grease gun. Steering Head. Lift machine and place a box under the crankcase so that front wheel is clear of the yround. ‘Test for play in the steering lead by trying up-and-down movement. Check also that steering is free. If necessary, adjust as explained on page 20, Brake Cam Spindles. A few drops of vil. ‘Tappet Adjustment. Sec pages 20-22. Clutch Adjustment, There must abways be a slight amount of play in the clutch control arm on the veatbox -pr a short length of irce cable at the handlebar lever end. If the play becomes excessive difficulty will be experienced in changinys 15 gear, as the clutch may not fully disengaze, in which case the control arm should be adjusted as explained on page 24. Chaiss. To check the front chain tension remove inspection pig 4, Fig. 4, and fee) the up and down play, which should not be more than half-an-inch. ‘To adjust the tensioner, if necessary, see page 27. Check that there is not more than three-quarters of an inch play in the rear chain. Tf excessive, adjust as explained on page 28. EVERY 2,000 MILES. Automatic Advance. Remove timing cover and examine advance mechanism; if necessary apply a few drops of thin machine oil. Oil Tank. Drain out the old oi) (ptefezably after a run while the enyine is still warm), wash out with flushing oil or thin machine oil—-NOT jaraifin or petrol—and refill with new oil. Remove filter and wash thoroughly in petrol or paraffin and make sure that it is absolutely dry before replacitig. 16 Grankcase Filter. Remove plate before crank: case and wash the gauze filter in petrol, dry and replace it Gearbox. Kemove drain plug at bottom of gear box and drain ont old oil, Wash out gearbox with flushing oil and refill with new oil through inspec- tion hole (Fig 9}, to level of iiller plug Note.—In the ease of new machines it is advis- able to rain the oil tank and sump after the first 250 miles, and again after 1,000 miles. The gearbus should be drained after the first 500 miles. There- after these operations need only he carried vat at 2,000 mile intervals. Bulk getails of lubrication points and correct Grades of oil are given on the lubrication chart on pages 34 and 35, and inside the back cover. Primary Chain Oilbath. ‘This is provided with a supply of special lubricant before the machine leaves the factory, and topping up should only be required at infrequent intervals, Check level and top up if necessary with engine oil. One of the cover fixing screws is painted red and also serves as a level plug (sce Fig, 4). Remove it to check level and replace afterwards. (Approximate capa- city 4 pint.) Hubs, ‘These are Sted with ball journal bearings, and no adjustment is either provided or required. So long as they are adequately lubricated as des- cribed on page 15 they will give faultless service throughout the life of the machine. Dynamo and Magneto. See pages 55 and 56 Central Stand Fulcrum, A few strokes of the grease gun. 17 HOW TO CARRY OUT THE VARIOUS ADJUSTMENTS CALLED FOR JIN THE PREVIOUS SECTION. Fiy 3. Front fork and steering bead. Forks. ‘There is no adjustinent for the telescopic forks fitted to this model. The only maintenance likely to be required, apart from the routine check up on the tightness of nuts and bolts, is if, after considerable mileage, the forks appear to develop excessive up-and-down movement, If this occurs remove the large Hexagon headed cap 4 at thr (y/o! each fork Teg, and also the small drain plugs shewn in Vig. 6. After all the remaining vil 5) 1s has drained out of each ley, tepiace the drain plags: anil reall to the correct level, using a quarter-pint of it to each leg for this purpose. Nore the correct amount—a quarter of a pint. A little more than this will not be hurmful, but on no account must the fork legs be filled right up to the top, or the forks will be unable to function. Use only the oils recommended in the chart on paye 34 and inside the back cover. (NOTE.—It helps to remove the last traces of oil from the forks when draining, if the rider stands astride the machine, grasps the handlebars, and works the forks up and down.) 19 Steering Head. Kemove the steering damper Job with stem and chen the steering head lockput Ut, Pig. 8). Slacken the pinch bolt € and the two pinch bolts throuzh the bottom yeke holding the 5 in position, Turn the adjusting sleeve 1 ness has Teen taken up. Do pot over- len or stocriny will be stiff and the bal} races may be damaged. Tighten all three pinch “bolts after adjustment is complete and then replace the steering head locknut and damper knob. Note-t is advisable to re- efter tightening the locknut 2. heck the adjustment Tappet Adjustment, Tappet adjustment and checking must always be done when the engine is stone cold, and the operation is casily carried out when the inspection covers (4, Fly 7) on the rocker box are removed, using the special spanner provided in the toolkit for this purpese isee pase 3) Place the machine on its stand anc turn the engine by means of the kickstarter. This latter operation will be found easier if the sparking plugs are first removed. It is, of course, essential that any valve whise tappet clearance is being checked or adjusted should be closed, and its tappet on the base circle or neutral portion of the cam. ‘To obtain this position for the nearside inlet valve turn the engine until the offside inlet valve is fully open. Similarly, te set the offside inlet valve in the correct pesition, tum the engine until the nearside inlet valve is fully open. Follow the same procedure exactly for the two exaust valves. The clearance should be .OWin To adjust the clearance, if it is found to. be incorrect, held the pin with one of the tappet spanners shawn on pase 3 and with the other tappet 20 spanner also shown on the same page, release the Jocknut © Phen, bokliag nut C, screw pin & up or down as requited until the feelor ange cn just be removed. Wher this is ebtaine, hokl 3 with its spanner and tighten mnt © very securely, When © is properly tightened, check the play again, to make certain that it has not been altered while tightening the nut. Check and adjust ail four adjusters in the same manner, and do not forget that this must be done while the engine is quite cold. Finally, replace the inspection covers. and the sparking plugs. 21 Clearances tend to increase slightly when the engine warms up to its working temperature, and if an attempt is made to adjust clearances while the engine is warm there may be insufficient clear- ance when the engire is cold. Running an engine without cnongl: tappet clearance is harmful te the valve seats, aud is ome of the commonest sources ff trouble in this direction. Ignition Timing. It is a rare uceurrence tor the magneto pinion to slacken off and disturh the ignitign setting, and it is not advisable to interfere with the standard setting unless it is known to be at fault This however advisable to check ever the timing, alter carrying out any adjustment to the magneto contact points, asa slight variation of the points: tends to advance or setard the timing. (Opening the points advances timing, closing them retards timing.) : TE the timing requires re-setting, fiest check that the fully open gap at the points is between .010in and 4H2in, Then remove the tappet inspection Covers (A, Fig. 7} and the sparking plug from the ottside cylinde® followed by the timing cover and the magneto pinion which is self-extracting. Yo re- move the pinionpit is only necessary to unscrew the hexagon fad in an anti-clnckwise direction. After a few turns it will become stiff, but after further turning in the same direction the pinton will come away from its taper ‘Lo set the timing, tum the engine forward until the olfside piston is at the top of its compression stroke. This can he checked by means of a red inserted through the sparking plus hole and resting 22 on the piston head. Tf, when. the piston is in this position, cither of the valves is found te be partly open, tis means that the piston is at the top of the wrong,stroke, and the engine must accordingly be turned’ through one complete revolution — If tappet clearance can be felt at both valves [sce page 20) the piston will be at its correct top dead centre for ignition timing. Having satisiicd yourself that the piston is at tthe correct top dead centre, (urn the engine back until the piston has descended exactly 11/32 This can casily be accomplished by enzayiny low gear and revdlving the rear wheel backwards. Leaving the engine, get in this position, turn the magneto shaft forwatd in advance of the pinion {i.e., to operate the auitomatic advance mechanism by applying a spanner to the central Kexagon and turning it anti-clockwise against the resistance of the springs). Wedging the mechanism iththe fully advanced position, with the points just beginning to opon {not more than .002in.) by the action of the arm on the lower cam (see Fig.'8). Then lightly 23 fap the magneto pinion on te its taper, tighten the bolt and carefully check the setting. Lf it is correct, finally tighten the maynete pinion bolt. Tt cannet be too strongly emphasized that the ignition timing must he correctly set for satisfactury engine performance, and also that any temptation to improve upon the maker's setting should be avoided, as this setting has Reon found best aiter Gaetul Wiel and experiment, “The fact that this cagine is fitted with automatic ignition advance makes it all the more pecessary that the shove timing instructions should be faithfully carried ont. g. Fig. 9. Clutch control adjustment. Clutch Control. The main clutch adjustment is totally enclosed in the gearbox outer cover, and to reach thisitis first necessary to remove the inspection plate (Fig. 9). With the plate removed it will be seen that just inside the cover there is a nut A which locks the adjusting screw Z in position, Loosen the Jocknut and with the aid of a screw, 24 drivet, adjust the serew sv that there is a little clearance between it and the ball which is lucated behind it, Then retighten the locknut and replace the filler plug, Further adjustment, if necessiry, 8 provided by the cable adjuster on top of the wearbos, just under the magneto, Remember, however, that sume free moveitent in the control arm is necessary, ey if the adjustment is too tight, there will be constant pressure on the clutch, with consequent wear and loss of efficiency. Fig. 10. Clatels spring adjustment. Clutch Spring Pressure. Aiter_ a considerable mileage it may be desirable to increase the spring irst remove the outer half of pressure a hittie, 25 the primary chainessr, aul then the domed elutet cover «fj big. J), wich is seenred by twelve screws: fer the cluteh body. Tori] then be seen that the chnich plies are compressor Ty springs, the pressure of which is cunth led by the pnts 2. To increase the spiny oressure tighten these nuts B slightly. Tt is impertant tat each of the six sure even pieaed ecually te pressure, others plates will slide uneventy anh cluteh drag may result adjusting ants is th After the adjustment is completed, depress the clutch lever and spin the clutch by eperating the kickstarter when the outer spring plate © should be seen {o revolve parallel with the other plates. If not, adjust individual springs until plates are true. Replace the cover and chaincase. 26, Chains. ‘To adjust the front chain remoye the inspection plus A (ix. 4 Jocknut 2 (Big. 11 on the chain tensinner adjuster Torn the adjuster ©, serewing it np te reduce the slack in the chain, ami dewn Lo increase it, Feet the tension by inserting the jingets thronch the inspectfon plug bole. ‘The cimzect amount of slack. sod then slacken oll fe up and dawn movement, on the tronr chain és, not Jess than half-an-inch. If the pluy os being increased, pressnre on the kickstarter will help to move the tensioner plate down. ‘This is, of course, unnecessary when the play is being reduced, Rear Chain Adjustment (rigid frame: “Uus is adjusted by means of serew adjusters iu the fork, ends in front of the wheel spindle, Slacke uf nut vt Pig. 12) and then unscrew the spindle a lle Ly means of a tommy bar inserted in the hole in the spindle end 7! Screw the adjusters © in or out until the chain tension is correct with an up and dewe movement of three quarters of an inch Rear Chain Adjustment (spring frame). Slacken colt the two hexagons d and B (Pig. 13] on the nearsile spindle end and the bolt head C on the offside by means of a tommy bar, and then screw the chain adjusters Lin or out as the case may be, until the chain tension ig correet, w'th an up and down movement of not less than half-an-inch, with the machine on its central stand, se that the rear wheel js in its lowest position 28 Wheel Aligament. Make sure that the wheel is hard up against the adjusters wher checking, and also that the adjustment is equal oa both sides of the wheel su that the latter is in correct alignment iu the frame, This can be done either by ylancin along the line of both wheels when the front wheel is set straight, or by means of @ long straight-lve or the edge of a plank placed along the sules of the wheels. The straightedge showkl touch both walls of both tyres After adjusting, re-tighten 4 and ff atl also the locknuts D. Tt is a good plan periodically te remove bath chains, clean thoroughly in petrul or parailin and then gently warm in a mixture of grease and graphite. When cool wipe of excess erease, clean sprockets and replace chains. Remember wh placing a chain fitted with detachable connecting link that the spring fastener must always be put on with the closed end facing the forward direction of travel fie. om the top sun) of the ehain re OTHER PERJODICAL ADJUSTMENTS. Brakes. In the case of the rear brake a knurled nut on the brake tod effects any adjustment acces- sary, and a few turns are all that is required to improve braking efficiency. The front brake is adjusted by means of the knurled ‘thumb nut on the cable stop at the Jower end of the forks Sparking Plugs. The sparking ping is of soc importance in satisfactory engine performance that, it is advantageous to give proper attention to this component, It is poor cconomy ty use aay but the most cfiicient plug, The better plug will scum pay fur itself by effecting more camplete combustion 29 ioe) maximum development of power from the fuel supply, Reduced paver due to partially unburned fuel will he climinated. Tests shew that the plng most suited t the reqnicements of unis engine is the Champion 1.105, Remove the sparking plugs every 1000 miles or so for inspection Tf the car buration system is in correct adjustment and the air lever is at all times kept as far open as cireumn- stances permit {sce “Driving,” page 7) the sparking plug points should remain clean almost indefinitely. An over-rich mixture from the carburetter will, however, cause the formation of a svoty deposit on the points and, later, outside the plug body (as upper view, Fig. 143, If therefore such a deposit 30, is foun], rlean it off carefully and cheek your use of the air lever, Too much oil getting past the piston und inte the combustion chamber will also fonl the plug points with carbon deposit, bur thi should not be possible unless the piston, rus and cylinder bore are worn beyond the stage it which a re-bore is usnally considered necessary. \ worn os defective oil control ring on a piston might, however, produce such over-uiliny symptoms. “The: continued use of leaded fuel may also eventoally produce a deposit on the plug this time of a greyish colour. A Light deposit Une to any of these canses can easily be cleaned of, but if it is allowed to accum= ulate, partionlarly inside the body, the plug may spark internally swith an adverse effect on cagine performance --if, indeed, it dees not stop the engine altogether: and the plug showkl be taken to a garaye for cleaving. If eventually the cteaning process fails to restore the plug to its original condition of efheiency, it shonkl be replaced by a new «ne. When inspecting a phuy also check the sap between the points. This should be .015in,-018in, and adjustment should be made by bending the side wire J [Pig. 14), Never attempt to move the 31 centre electrode, and it is abvays advisable ty use a special plug gap tool (Fig, 151 obtainable at 6d. fron: any Champion Plug stockist or from the Champion Sparking Plug Co. Ltd Middleses, Peeler gauges are attached to verify correct Kap Feltham, Air Cleaner, The air cleaner needs to be dis mantled and cleaned periedically, The filter clement should be washed thoroughly in petrol, allowed to dry, and then reassembled Cylinder Head Unit, Aiter the machine has covered its first 250 miles from new or after decar- bonising. check the tightness of the cylinder head bolts Tf they need to be tightened, work in a. diagenal order, and leave the central bolt to the last in order to ensare even distribution of picssure with consequent frecdem from distortion Carburetter. So lony as the engine continues to perform satisfactorily, the carkureticr is hest Teft alene, particularly by the inexperienced rider. only adjustment in which the cwner is Hkely to be interested is the pilot air screw @'ig. 16} which controls the slew running mixture. This is set bcfore the machine jeaves the works, but the best setting may vary slightly to suit riders’ sequire- ments, or diflerent Jnealities, Jurning the pilot air screw inwards enriches the mixture, and unscrewing weakens it, A ricer mixture gives a slower and more reliable tick-over, but it is naturally undesir- able t6 have the mixture too rieh, even with the thre ttle practically clesed~ which is, of course, the throttle pesition for tickover so the best way to set the pilot air surew is to screw it im until the miatuce is Gbyieusly too rich, and then unscrew it the a2 CLI SLIDE W NEEDLE vig. 16 AIR SCREW IP & NOTCH ADJUSTMENT FOR NEEDLE POSITION THROTTLE SLIDE ito i CHAMBER ‘The carburetter dismantled 33 om. BRAND, - GREASE, vont Sumer Winter Forks only 30° SAR 20 : Belmoline LD Price's SAE 40 Energol Castrol Grant NNL. Castrolite Castrolease Pris Heavy Essolube at 40 20 Eigse: Grease Mobile dD Bh Aretie — Mebal Grease | Xo Shell ‘Yyinle Double Single 5 Retinay CD _ M4 2 Gratton’ hl ever 41 Yeiitry: chat fl evel ; Se tee able, oppntir pots B MACHINE OW. bart rake cams spindles fear brake pedal Pa dae tas “bolt i ro few, Ce Th Atgntaatie nelvane™ morhans ty ete GREASE. var - Ty Wheel baie Eh Steerung head ER | Sela stsqaisiom stew gtted fo) Centra stand Juleran: a 35 unti] the setting is just right, and frther unscrewing increases the tickover speed unduly, ‘This may seem complicated, but the effect of altering the setting is very noticeable and the rider wil! ea detect thy syruptamrs Tr és doubly important to avoid over-niebness of the tick-over setling if much riding is dene on small throttle openings for this is what is known as runmng on the pilot, aud if the pilot is tow rich the general petrol consumption will be adversely affected. ‘The running mixture can oniy be altered by adjusting the height ef the needle in the throttle valve or by fitting a main jet of different size. Such alterations should not be made except for very special purposes, as dictated by abnormal requirements, and only then on expert advice. DECARBONISING THE ENGINE. Decarbonising and “top overhaul” of an engine is extremely simple, but it should only be carried out when the engine really needs it, The usual symptoms are an increased tendency to “pink” (a imetallic knocking when under heavy load) due to the building-up of carbon on the tops of the pistons and insile the cylinder heads, a general falling-off of power noticeable mainly on hilis, and a tendency for the engine to run hotter then usual, it is first necessary to remove the petrol tank. Turn off the petrol taps and detach petrol pipes. ‘Che tank is secured to the frame by a belt through, the steering head lug and another through the seat jug at the rear of the frame top tube. ‘The saddle nose belt should also be taken out, When these Bolts ave removed, the tank can be taken off 36 Yext detach the high tension Teas and remove the sparking plugs. Disconnect the steady staxs. from the rocker box to the frame, take oft the carburetter by removing the flange bolts and sliding it of sideways to disconnect the rubber sleeve at the junction of the air leaner By un screwing the ring nut at the top of the carburetter, the slide can be pulled right out and tied up to tie top tube out uf the way, while the sain body of the instrument can be completely removed. By unscrewing the exhaust pipe and silencer brackets to the frame, the pipes and silencers can be removed complete. Note that the silencer brackets are attached by means of the pillion footrest bolts Kemove the oi supply pipe banjos and the rocker bos, noting that this is fixed fo the evlinder head hy bolls above and nots and studs under the box. Having removed the covers A Fig. 7/it will be necessary to Temove the front stud in the rear cover before the rocker box can be removed. ‘This is accomplished by applying the special spanner provided in the tool kit to the flats machined on the std which are exposed when the cover is taken off. The cylinder head hulding-dewn bolts can now be removed, “There are mune yf these, including the central one which sbould be removed first, and replaced last. The cylinder head anit can new be removed, If it shows a tendency to stick, & few Light taps with « wooden mallet ander the exhanst ports will loosen it Rotate the engine by means of the hickstarter until the pistons are at the tup of heir stroke, and scrape off the carbon deposit with an old penknife, taking care not to damage the piston crowns AI traces of carbon must he cleaned from the cylinder heads. a7 Grinding-in Vatves. ‘Lo remove the valves place awonden bleck, which will fit inside the catinder head, ot a bench, and then lay the bead over the Block with the valve heads resting on it: then compress the velve springs until tu split collers can be removed, When the collets are ont, the valve ad top collar can be tifted owt spones a Valve urinding should only be attempted if pitting is net dep, Hf deep pit marks appear, return the valve te BS.A, Repair Dept, at Monte gomery Street, Sparkbrovk, Birmingham, fur re- facing, as attempts at grinding-in in this case will result im wear of the vaive svats, and the valve may become pocketed Smear a small quanti (obtainable Irom any garage or accessury shop) over the fary of the valve, and return the valve to its seat. Vote that a light spring inserted under the valve head greatly facilitates the grinding. in operation, allowing the valve to lift and be rotated to a now position periodically, Hold tne valve stem with the special tool provided and rotate the valves backwards and forwards whilst maintaining astcady pull, The valve should be raised and turned to a new position after every few strokes. Grinding shoul be continued until the valve seat and face show a auiformly polished surface all roand. Tt is most important that each valve should be ground in on its own seu: y of grinding compound Should the valveseats in the heail be badly nitted, the latter should be returned to BS. \ for reentting, and this may neewssitate the filling of new valves. Nefure replacing the valves anil springs all traces of grinding compound must be removed from both face and seat, and the valve stems smeared with 38 Valve Springs. After a period of several thongand miles it may be desirable to renew the valve springs as these tend nltimately to lose their eflicieney due to heat. If the sorings are renewed whilst decar- boniaing, it will save dismantling specially to replace them at a later dete Valve Rockers. Te romove the rockers from the rocker boxes, if this should be veanired for any reason, temove the oil Supply pipe banjos and the acorn nuts on the Tocker spindles, and tap the latter out, applying @ small centre punch to the threaded ends exposed whea the nus are removed so as 10 avoid damaxing the threads Careful note should be kept of the rocker assemi-ty for replacement, as the Varions washers must cbvidusly be inserted in the correct order ‘see Fig. 171. Cylinder Block, Tn the onlinary course of events it should rarely be necessary 10 remove the cylinder block, since ton overhaul. already described uswally suffices to keep the machine in first class working condition, In any case, this operation is diiTicult to carry ont without the help of an assistant, and unless the condition of the engine indicates that the pistons, rings or cylinder bores require atten- tion, the owner wil he well advised not to disturb the cylinder block Symptoms indicating faulty piston rings might include Reavy oil consumption, poor compression fut only if the velves are in Goud order; otherwise they are much more likely to be the cause) and excessive piston slap when warm, This Jatter mizht be due to worn bores. which could be checked without removing the block, if thy pistons were moved to bottom dead centre, thus exposing the bores for examination and measurement. 40 ‘Ta semove the cylinder block, nae the eylnder base nuts. tura the engine until the pistons are at bottom dead centre. and then, preferably astride the machine, carefully lift the luek up until the pistons are of the eres, While this is being done, get an assistant steaily the pistons as they emerye and to refieve you of the weight of the bluck, so that it may be lifted clear. When the block is removed, cuver the mouth of the crankease with rag to prevent dust anit grit fattiny in, To remove a piston from is connecting fu it ig first necessary to take cut one of the gudyeon pin circlips. ‘This is best accomplished with @ pointed Instrument such as the tang of a file suitably ground ctting hefore a gndgeon pin can be withdrawn it may be necessary to heat the piston with the ail of rags immersed in hot water, wrung oat, and held round the piston. ‘Then, supporting the piston, tap the gudgeon pin through using a light hammer and a punch, Whea the piston is free, mark the inside of the piston skirt at the back, so that it can be replaced the correct way round If the rings are stuck in their grnaves they will need to he carefully prised free and removed from the piston. All carbon deposit should be carefully scraped Irom the grooves and the inside edges of the rings. Tf any of the rings show brown patches on the susface, replace with a new ting, Cheek the piston ring gaps by inserting each piston in its bore and sliding cach ring inbependently up to the skitt of the piston. Check the wap with fecler gauges. ‘This should nut be less than .W Min. or more than d13in, fer the two upper ings, and O0gin. and .O13in. respectively for the huttom ring, 4 which is the sluiied sceaper zing, These are the 8 Jur new rings. Fit new rings if the vexeceds Uw figure stated, although a an inch extra gap are not few thousandths serious. Tt is advisable to check the gap of now rings before ditanz, and if the sap is less than OOSin, the emis «1 the Hmys shenkd be carefully filed to the correct Timit J should be meted that piston vin brittle, and unless halted very earctully broken © very, are easily, Res replace the pistems on their connecting rds isee that they are the right way round), smear the guilgeon pins liherelly with engine oil, and tap into sembling. When the rings are tehtied, position. ‘Then ret the zudgeon pin ciretips Smear the pistons Liberally with clean engine oil, turn the rings 50 that the gaps aze on the opposite sides of the pistons: &t a mew vylinder base washer on the crankease; liberally coat the inside of the eyli the help of your assistant, slide the eytinder block over the two pistons der bores with Clean engine vil and then, with This operation will be simplitied if the piston rings are compressed bue their grooves by means of metal clips, surh as ran be obtained from acces- sory suppliers, and two strips of wood are prepared of such a size that they can be Inid across the mouth of the erankesse under the pistons, one in front and one belind, sas ti bold the pistons square and steady while the cylinder block is being lowered, AS soon as the pistons eater the Leres the piston cing clips will be a.tomatically pushed ot and they, together with the strips nf wonrl, Gam be slid out before the block is finally lowered into position 42 Nest replace the valves inte their respective ports, place the springs over thy tenis with the top collar in position. and with the head resting on wooden block as before, compress the springs until the split on the inside of the enilets will serve tu lead then in position until the spring is releaseil. Make «nite sure that the collets are correctly lucaterl iets ean be ingeried. A dah of grease Place the push rods on fo their respective tappets and then lift the cylinder head int position, Re- place the nine cylinder head bolts and make them all really tight, working diagonally in order ty secure even tightness, and leaving the central bolt te the last. When they are all right down give them a final wrench to make certain that they really are tight 43 Now replace thy rocker box making sure that the push rods are correctly inserted inte the recker ends and thoronghly tighten the varivas nuts and bolts. licfore replaciny the rocker box inspection covers, check the tappet clearances as described on page 20, and adjust if necessary, which will be quite likely if the valves have beea ground in. 4 ce the oil supply pipe banjos, and the stewly stays. then the carburettor, the exaust pipes and silencers, and the petrol tank and pipe. tis advis. able to examine the sparking plugs amd clean them before repliciig. Cheek that the gaps hetween the points are correct and adjust if neves o page ary ost Removal of Front Wheel. ‘To remove front whrel from forks, detach brake cable, then slacken the pinch bolt (4, Fig. 18} at the front of the nearside fork end. Insert tommy har in the hole in the shouldered spindle end # and unserew, Note that this has a left-hand thread and unserews clnekwise. Spindle can then be pulled out, and the wheel will drop ont. 5 IMPORTANT. Take care that the wheel is not ilropped on te the bush which projects from the brake cover sid) ofthe hi. Muough #s is pressed in, it may if subjected to a sharp blow, fall ingidle the cover plate thus necessitating the removal of the latter heiore it can be retrieved and located in p:sitien, After replacing ue wheel do not forget finally to tighten the pinch bolt 1 Detachable Rear Wheel. On models fitted with spring frame first remove the outer nut at C (Fig, 20), To remove the rear wheel insert a tommy bar in the hole in the spindle end (4, Fi 19. Fig, 20 spring frame: and unscrew. The spinde has a tight-hand Iireail. and therefore unserews anti-clockwise. ‘The ilistance bush si falls clear of the machine when the spindle is removed, or alter- natively the spind.e can be pulled out until it is clear of the hub and then slid backwards eut of the slotted chainstay end, carrying the bush with it, The wheel should then be pulled sideways towards the olisirie of the machine, so as to disen- gage the coupling splines on the hub from the brake. When the hub is dear of the brake the wheel can be dropped out. To replace the wheel the above operations are sinyply carried out in the reverse order. This is the most convenient way of dealing with the busi when refitting the wheel, When’ detaching the rear wheel, it is quite unneces- sary to touch the hexagon nut C on the near- side. This shouid enly be removed when it is slesized ty dismantic the brake gear, or stackened oi when the rear chain tension is adjusted (see page 28) 46 Fig. 21 47 Gearbox, The four-speed gearbox titted ty his mule] 3s of the censtant-amesit stishny with internal dog en incorporating the gear engagement Hues are mounted one pair jf and £, Pig, 21) on the mainshalt, and fone paar (Cand fy on the ka pinion type agement. ‘The sliting: pinians aft, and cach pair ted by a separate sliding fork (2 and Fi specially designed to couple together the individnal members of each pair, These forks slide un a common axis, provided by a horizontal red G, and their respective motious, by which the various gear epgagements are secured, are determined by the rotation of a cam plate A in which are machined two special cam grooves, one for each fork, and in which the operating peys J formed on the forks engage. is oper Foot Gear-change. ‘The cam plate, which oper- ates the sliding ferks, is caused to rotate by the foot gear-change mechanism through the intermed- jary of a sleeve K’ to whieh the plate is fixed, and on which double-acting ratchet tecth are formed. When the foot gear-change pedal I. is raised or depressed the rocking lever Mis rocked on its fulerum {mounted in the gearbox partition which is not illustrated) by means of a ballend N en- gaging in the slotted lever O, coupled to the pedal, and the spring-loaded ratchet pawl P at the other end of the rocking tever imparts the appropriate movement to the sleeve K. Dismantling. Tsis is a ob which is only under taken by the experienced owner as a rule, and one which in the ordinary course of events shonid never be necessary. efore carrying out this work the clutch must first be taken off bodily by removing the domed cap 4, the six spring nuts B, and then 48 the spring plate C (Fig. 10, page 25), whereupon the central fixing nut can be unscrewed and the clutch withdrawa from the splines on the gearbox wmiainshaft, Then disconnect the speedometer deive under the outer cover at the front (C, Fix. 9:, page wi. Mave the gears to the neutral position, and tun remove the ycarbox onter cover which will come away with the kickstarter and gear-change pedals and the clutch lever (first release the clutch cable! still in position, Note that as the cover is withulrawn the spring pressure on the kickstarter peilal is released. This point must be watched when re- assembling. eta etek) ita ADIUSTING te | | ‘Wart INSERTS SINE coven | Fig. 22 Pull'out the clutch operating rod which passes through the centre of the mainshaft, and then re- lease the nut on the mainshaft whieh holds the kickstarter ratchet pinion and sping, laying these Tatter aside. The gearbox partition can then be 49 removed, together with the feet gear chin rocking lever 1 The red @ is posed inte the searhos shell at the cluteh en and secured Ly & aeub screw which, is accessible uniter the gearbax. Kelease this grub) screw atul then pull vat tbe cmd. Hf sbouki then be possible to withdraw the entire gear efuster come plete with shafts and the two sliding forks bodily irom the gearbay, althouxh, if preferred, the com- ponents may be withdrawn separately. This may call for a certain amount of manoeuvring, but the experienced owner will have no difficulty. Reassembly. ‘This is carried ont in precisely the reverse order, lirst making certain that the cam plate is in tlw nevteal position as described above Rear Suspension if fitted), To dismantle the rear suspension, dirst detach the rear wheel Next detach the silencers by removing the nuts and bolts (4, Fis. 28). Then release pinch belts Band remove plugs C. The central columns of the suspension units can then be tapped out from underneath and withdrawn through the top lugs. When this is done the remainder of cach unit can be slid off sideways from the bottom lug and laid on a bench for com- plete dismantling, which consists merely of taking ‘the various pieces apart, carefully noting their respective positions for subsequent reassembiy. The wheel spindle brackets which, together with the bearing sleeves to which they are attached, form the spriny plungers. can be separated from the sleeves when the pinch bolts D are withdrawn Note that each of these engages in a notch in its bearing sleeve and also that tie bottom studs at A similarly engage in notches in the central columns. 30 ‘These are essential for correct engagement and locking, and particular attention must be paid tn their proper alignment on reassembly SOME GENERAL HINTS. A guod rider periodically checks all nuts and bolts with a spanner to sce that they are tight Poor compression may indicate either that tap- pets are badly out of adjustment, that valves uved gtinding-in, or in the case of a machine which has covered a very big mileage, that piston rings are hadiy worn and need replacement, 51 It is advisable occasionally to clean the air heles in the petrol tank filler cap, as if these yet choked, petro) starvation may cause engine stoppage. At intervals of several thousand miles, it is advisable-—when tank is almost empty —to remove the petrel taps, clean the filter above the tap, and drain the tank and wash out with petrol to remove any collection of dirt or water which may have accumulated. Blow through the taps before re- placing. Difficult starting or engine stoppage is usually due to faults in either the carburation or ignition system, and in the event of these troubles arising, the following checks will enable the cause to be located. ‘Make sure that there is petrol in the tank, aad that it is reaching the carburetter by depressing the tickler and fiooding the float chamber. Fxamine main jot which can be reached by un- screwing the hexagon at the base of the carburetter ody. Removing jet and blowing through it will clear any obstruction. See that the high-tension leads to the sparking plugs are connectec. Remove plugs, and if oily or sooted, clean them. Check that plugs are sparking correctly by connecting high-tension lead and laying cach plug on its side on top of cylinder; then turn the engine over several times by means of the ikickstarter, when the plug should spark inter- mittently. ELECTRICAL SECTION Instructions for the Maintenance of LUCAS ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT 38 The electrical equipment is designed and manu factured to give long periods of service without any need for adjustment or cleaning. ‘The small amount of aitention which is required is described: Tuclow and we advise riders to carry out the pro- cedure outlined in order to ensure that the best servive is obtained. BATTERY. Aliout once a month take off the battery iid, remove the filler plugs from each of the cells and examine the level of the electrolyte in each cell, If necessary. add sufficient distilled water to bring the electrolyte level with the top of the separators. Do not use tap water and do not use a naked light when examining the condition of the cells ‘The condition of the battery should occasionally be checked by taking hydrometer readings of the specific gravity of she electrolyte. Readings should be taken after the motor cycle has been out for a ron when the electrolyte is thoroughly mixed. The specific yravity readings and their indications are as follows — 1280-1300 Battery fully charged. ‘About 1.210 Battery about half discharged. Lieluw 1.150 Battery fully discharged ‘The veadings for each of the three eclls should be approximately the same. If one cell gives a reading very different from the others it may be that elec~ drelyre has been spilled or has leaked from this 34 particular cell or there may be a short circuit, between the plates. In this case the battery must) De examined by a Lucas Service Depot or Agent Finally never leave the battery im a hscharge condition for any length of time, wipe away all moisture and dirt item the top of the atte and keep the terminals clean and smeared with petrmeum jelly te prevent corvosion DY MO. Output Control. The dynamo is of the compet sated voltage control type and is arranged to work in conjunction with a regulator unit which is fitted alongside the eureut, The regulator canses the dynamo te give an Gutput which varies according to the load on the battery and its state of charge. ‘The dynamo also gives an increase of output to balance the current taken by the lamps whenever they are switched on. It will be noted that during daytime running when the battery is in good con- dition the dynamo gives only a trickle charge so that ammeter readings will seldom be more than one ur two amperes. A discharge reading may be observed immediately after switching on the head- Jamp, but after a short time the battery voltage will fall and the regulator will respond causing the dynamo output to balance the Jamp Ioad Maintenance. About every 10,000 miles, take off the cover band and chek the brushes and commutator, See that the brushes move freely in their holders by holding back the brush springs and pulling gently on the flexible connectors. Tf a brush is inclined te stick, remove it from its holder and clean its sides with a petro! moistened cloth, Te careful to replace brushes in their original positions in onder te retain beddi 88 ‘The commutator should be clean, free from oil or dirt and should have @ polished appearance. If it is dirty, clean with a dry duster while the engine is slowly turned over. Tf the commutater is very dirty, moisten the cloth with petrol Lubrication. No iubrication is required to the dynamo as ball bearings are fitted to both the commutator and driving end bracket. — These bearings arc packed with grease during assembly and will last until the machine is in need of a complete overhaul. MAGNETO. Cleaning and Adjustment. About every 3,000 miles remove the contact breaker cover and examine the contact breaker. If the contacts are burned or blackencd, clean them with fine carborundum stone of fine emery cloth and afterwards wipe away dust or dirt with a petrol moistened cloth, Check the contact breaker setting after cleaning. ‘Yo check the contact breaker setting, turn the engine until the contacts are fully opened and insert the gauge provided on the ignition spanner. Ii the setting is correct the gauge should be a sliding fit If, however, the gap varies appreciably from the gauge, slacken the lockaut on the fixed contact and turn the contact screw until the gap is set to the gauge. Finally tighten the locknut. ‘Next examine the pick-ups which can be semoved when the fixing arms are moved aside. Sce that the brush in each pick-up moves freely and while the pick-ups are removed, clean the slip ring track and flanges with a soft dry cloth Lubrication. About every 5,000 mites take off the contact breaker cover, Turn the engine over until the small hole in the cam can be seen. This 36 hole is ftted with @ wick which enables the oil to reach the pad and cam face, A few drops nf thin machine oil will be adequate. Fah cme that no oil gets on fo the contucts, Renewing High Tension Cable. A high tension cable showing signs of cracking or perishing must be replaced by 7mm. rubber covered ignition cable. To make the connection to the pick-up terminal, 57 thread the moulded terminal ant over the cable, Dare the end of the cable fer about fin, thread the vive throygh the washer removed from the original cable and bend back the wite strands. Screw the nut into its terminal LAMPS. Headlamp. This is of the sealed beam type, Po Femuve the lamp iront, slacken Tuck the xing screw at the top of the pump. Note that the lass is sealed to the reflector body ani cannot be sepa rated. This unit is clipped to the amp rim in the usual way for casy replacement To replace the front, locate the metal tongue in the slot at the bottom sf the Jamp, press the front an aad seeure by retightening the fixing screw. The headlamp must be set go thar the main dhiving light beam is parallel with the vod surfat Ti necessary adjust “he headlamp by slackening the two fixing bolts. The driving light filament of the main bulb must also be correctly toeused in the reflector. To fucus remove the lamp front and reflector and slacken the clamping clip which secures the bulb hulder and move the bulb holier backwards ur forwards until the best results are achieved. Finally Ughten the clamping screw. Tail Lamp. ‘The portion of the lamp carrying the red glass can be reroved by pushing mn and turning to the left. When refitting, engage the bayonet fixing, push in and turn to the right to secure the beady in positina. Replacement Bulbs. Lucas No, Watts Tleadiamp imam)... us 168 30/20 Headlamp ipilot and tail lampi 2 3 as PROPRIETARY INSTRUMENTS FITPINGS ANI) ACCESSORIES No expense is spared to secure as standard equipment the must suitable and highest «quality: instruments and accessories, Nevertieless, the Company's guarantee di not cover such parts amd in the event of trouble bemy experienced te parts in question shoukd be retrred to anil claims: made direct on the actual manufieturers, who will deal with them on the terms of their respective guarantees, as follows >— Carburetters: Messrs. Amalgamated Carburetters Lil. Perry Barr, Birmingham. Electrical Equipment : Messrs, Joseph Lucas Ltd., Lirmingham, Grease Gun: Messrs. Tecalemit, Ltd, Groat West Road, Rrentford, Middlesex. Saddles: Messrs. Herbert Terry & Sons 1td., 216 Corporation Street, Birmingham, Speedometers : Messrs. Smiths Motor Accessvries Jti., Crickle- wood, London, N,W.2, SPECIAL NOTE. Prompt attention to all claims under guarantee will be ensured if your covering letter gives :-— (1) Make, year and model of motor cyele (2) Date of purchase and name of dealer from whom obtained. 59 BS.A. MOTOR CYCLE SPARES STOCKISTS. aa MTD SAVE ‘TIME AND POSTAGE BY CONTACTING YOUR NEAREST BS.A, STOCKIST FOR B.S.A. SPARE PARTS, SPAR PART CATALOGLES, INSTRUCTION BOOKS, TRANSFERS, ETC. ALL BSA. DEALERS CARRY STOCKS OF BSA, SPARE PARTS BUT THE FOLLOWING APPOINTED STOCKISTS MAINTAIN A COMPREHENSIVE. Ton Aberdeen. Aldershot. Andover... Aylesbury. Banbury Barnsley. Bedford. Belfast .. Biggleswade . Birminghom. nape? Birmingham Srertirosk 12 Birkenhea Blockburn.. Blackpool. Bolton... RANGE. Tekghone Telegraphic Nome of Stocks. Address Na Address. [Dawsons <1 2426, Thistle Street. 1272 George Chevie (Coeles} #47, Hotburn Street... 6027 Westen, Ld ‘Aberdeen. Phillips Bros.(Alderstot? Birchett Rox M112 Phillips, Cyeles, Lid. ‘Aldershot’ Andover Motor & Cycle Weyhill Rud... 2991 Co. Eborns Garage 1. + 44, Walton Street 159, Eborn's, ‘Aylesbury. ‘Trinder Brox + 2&3. Broad Street. 2546 TT. Garner & Son. Sheffield Road .. +. 2866 The Imperial Cycle Co. 53, Sts Loves... 2374 '. J. Chambers 106 and 10%, Donegall 272534 Fastmote, WG Pass. Belfast. Bryans. 25,27, 72 and 74, 3108 ‘Shortonend Street. Cagis Cyle & Motor 26, Brand Stee Mi 104, Bath Rowe (erie) Mi Goed Sat T pm) C.E, Cape & Sons Ltd. 13-15, Unner Hagley Berend Road. Deel? Shevelbotiom’s Lid... 376,Ladypool Rosd.. South Bc Simiter Lad,» 540, Now Chester Ra Rog Fetey Shunteworth & Cedae (SCS Bn Stet 6085 A. Hall & Son... 143, Church Street. 785 Charlie Robinson. 9 and 421, Higher 3951 Bridge Street. Ba B.S.A. Motor Cycle Spares Stockists—continued. Toten Boscombe Brenemouth Bridgwater Brighton Bristol. Chapslencle: E Chatham Chelmsford .. Chichester. Colwya Bay .. Coventry. Croydon. Darlington .. Derby .. Doncaster... Dorchester. Dudley. + Chas. E. Cope & Sons 193, Tea. Name of Sto bist. Tepe can Addis Ro “Ader Conte Bro 82 and 8 Chit Hoge ‘hire Read, Ankers & Wall. 188 My Stet 28 Anderon® Wal Redhill, Motors (Brigh- 104, North Road. 5281 ener S.J Foir Motors Ltd. 201/3, Cheltenham Rd, 46233 Arts Core (Pr, W, 30/32, Walnerdey Ra 714 Cone Matar hay, cSt Ld. + TAI, Manningham 3116 King & Harner Lid... Milton Road Comer... 3251 Motors, Morel Fler. ++ St. Donets Stret,. 3045 idee Gap inure (Cans 155, Gy Road... 3422 Robert Bevan & Son» 2155, Caste Steer. 188 W.T, Tien 8 Son + irhewe Brow... 314 Tin, hg Edwards & Soot Tay Garge + «4523 Edvards Grae, series Le 129, Town End a mew Gray coe HG, High Street. 405, Haalers Garage Ltd... New Street 2227 Hadley Lente Paynter. Bath Stet 2857. Payne age eee Davies Bros . «HH, Bridge Street .. 510 W.Goodridge & CoLtd. East Steet... 2033 + SS, Motor Cele Supply 6a, High Sweet. 2632 Gilbert Emery... Post Office Chambers, 2813, Benshira Row. Coventry Motor Mast London Rud...» 216718 Coventy Gedey’s La. + 228/234, Landon Rowd. Grordon ala . ‘he Durlex Mote and Grange Reed... Bion Dune white Bree + 205/9, Northgate BM . Ingl’s Provincial Gar- Walbrook Bond... 45289 wh Sano (Dovess- 7, Hall Gale oe. 254 ee) Lid. Tile S' .... 31,South Steet. 367 Motors. Dorchester. igh Street 6t BSA. Huddersfield Hell Ipswich Jersey Keichley Kendal .. Kirkealdy Leunceston .. Motor Cycle Spares Stockists—continued. Telephone Telegraphic Name of Stocktt. Address. ‘ors. 7, King Street... Dudley James Parkes & Se King Sur °F MeLean .. Riverside Deve 5088 Vehicle Sor oped Saat ot ge P. Pike & ee ‘Ltd, .. Alphington Street. 383! Pike, Exeter, Bell Bros. (HPF “td. “ee a "Gone Das Da oft I. & Alexander & Co. ot Gt. Western Det en Mato. Fits va ae 2aWorcete Street. S187 "Gloveter 3187, Harry Wardali Lid .. 15i15, Osborne Street 2302 Mild & Co, Leds. Vitrs Road. 5 177 Mild Matra Bs, Feel! (Gulnd) 2, Woodbride Rd Gud 1. Peron “The Garage, Barston J em HH Aga, (Pronto Uh, Bower Road 3135 EMBED (arom) Staton Rand 0445. Pink, Harrow. Dintnges Garages Lid Wivelifeld Road. 1148 A. Kear & Co, 5 +. $2b,Commercial Street 2259 Kost, Hereford G. Woorim J. HH, Plat Street 322i Bradshaws 16 Wann Rod Howe Earnshaw. | Manchester Road .. 123 Browns (Witham) Ltd 43, 47 48, Witham .. 31417 Revetis Lad, Clarkson Street. 2822 Gerke ete Pes Vand 12, New Suess Canal Catal Dick Race Cold Gage Hao “Tom O'Louahlin «66, Sticklandente ss 315 “The County Motors .. Junction Read 2568 J. Wooldvidye & Son, Weatson Road... 2d 62 Leeds BSA. Tone Leicester. Liacoln Liverpool Llawheden London, NW. NAW ws. SEB... Es Er Niz.. NZ SEA.. Sw. Swo WR. Woo. Lowestoft Maidstone Mansfield .. Manchester Middlesbrough Newcastlewon- ryoe Newton Abbot... Motor Cycle Spares Stockists—continued. Telegrapive iddrew Telephone ine of Satin, dtr TS Means & Co Lower Baste 2558 Warns is amet E vo Campion & Son Welford Place... 58054 Wee iv) Ls. 6, Hi Sect 75 Be Ge Ma Ca Pa Re a Se Ge ro cua 2 nan James Bowen & Sons .. Lider Narberth, Uswrhaden Gadfreys Ltd... Eden Street Euston Goa Bike bot Leadon = 41, Bytom Street. 1. Grose Lid 378381, Baton Road Eo, Kays of Ealing... .. 810, Bond Steet .. Fabio Searewlay, ” * BaF Gos, Dosa. F. Puke & Son Lid 44, Hh Sten, La Groen Eleanor Motor 26si9, Mose Stee Abert «AIR Romford Road, Crago Loveinote, Forest Gate. i London. Grooge Grose Lid .. 634; High Rod, Hille Finchley, 2148 Gland Lawrence Glan’ Comer,” Finchley Tad. Finchley ost Weiters Ltd... 1615, Kennington Retiagee Lane. 1362 Owen Bos, ++ 19, Botersea Rise. Battersea ‘Chaphare function, 1299 Cloode Roe Lad... 88782) Falla Rood nnn, Reet, Ws Falher 4246-718 green, London, Turners Sttes .. «. 81:83, Goldiaeh Rd Sb, Bash verdt Bush, Whitby’ of Acton Lid, 27. The Vas Aton Sh buh RWriehe —... OAD, London RASC Redhill Motors (Mid- The Brovdvay.. «3% stone) Le. We Henatock 2... 128, Chestefield Rd. 778 Colmes Depot. 1718, Waton Steet Bacicce Tom, Davies (Motors) 233, Deansyate ..Blacifriars Led 0651 Fred Feamley Lad. .. 6924, Ashun Old Rd East Eaat Manchester, Vadye 5, Webb & Win Lud, Cher Road Sires Longford Stretiord Garage. Pale Yare & Cobb 160 Linhorpe Rend 38734 Papaob. Ltd. Middlesbrough. Date (Newent) Motor Heymariet «. Newcastle, Ene, 21897 Neatleca-Trne Eien Co... 87. Queen Sweet. “BS 83 BS.A. Motor Cycle Spares Stockists—continued. Telephone Teegraohie Noe Adres. Toon, Name of Sect, Alra Northasnpton .. P.C. Spokes &Son.. 1, Henry Street. 160 Norwich gga (Neri) $2 Dake Steet 2727 Nottinghem .. E ¥ eamson fe Son Stavos Suet... B61 Orford WIE Toole «oO Hid, Stee St. 285 Parkston Bob Foster. += A725 Aabley Road.» 63 Perth .. M. Shaw & Sous. 1B, High Steet 5 463 Peterborough .. Burtows Bron. .. ++ 55:57, Westrte 2154 Plymouth... P. Pike & Co. Ltd... 2528, Union Plce . 3108. ko Plvmoath Portemouth .. Pery Kila Lid. 656%, Elm Grove, P'raguth ‘Sothues TS . © GE Minne =. 2. 10, "Cuhert Read, “= Preston. «, Loxhamns Gammon Led. a. oni Charme Se Dat Leth ys Fal Presion sit Deo Sb. Pulborough. Gray & Rowse. Bury Geto... Barw 4 Readiog .. .. Fortenone Bros, Ld. . 4-2, West iret -- 443 4148 Reating wee os Pills & Bhwnild 1924, Sau tet 299 Redhill .. .. The'edkjll Motor and 50, Brighton Reed... 327 Ele Works Cok Romford... GoBL Wilson 2+. George Street... 2660 Scarborough». Ea Watkinson... Rewoe Steet... 1657 Sevenoaks. Angus Motor Cycles Station Pornds 5 5. 3338 x Aust .- Kelawoy (Gres ond 34 Somh Soest” + 102 Shetfeld .. .. Welt Wrage Lid. .. Stanley Works, Wel- 26098 Sofild 26098 Themen’ Garege .. Farhi: Lenick 85. _‘Thomiea's Shetland 2 then Shrewsbury. JeR Meredith .. +. Goleham Head... 4533 Leni Sittingbourne ., Scones’ Garage «. 9, West Steet... 66 Segons, 152, Portewood Roed 1408172 62, King Steet «5 5068 Stockport ..... Theobald & Coppock. 6 Cheterente.. .+ 283 Tasha Cone Stochon-n-Toes Sig Jones np 7a Dies Road 6179 SuveooTeent. J. Bons Howards Phe, Sie 2890 Southampton ,, Alec. Bennett Lid. «. HF, Brockbank 64 B.S.A. Motor Cycle Spares Stockists—continued. Ton Nane of Stack, Adres, «RR Talat Sunderland... Danns Garage Lid... 534, North Bridge 4998 Suttons 4 Ne Hemock Foret Suet Gatare 99. lenstck, 90 samen See James. se iby Piton Lane a. 20560 LE Swindon... Enters Garage... 5/8, Mancieter Rend 2788 Taunton Thetford .. 2943 Edwacds Motor W, P, Edveards(Motors) 58, East Street Ld Cyeien, Paton WIKC, Lambert Lud, Castle Siret Tunbridge Wells C. £. Tunbridge 2, Vale Road Twickenham .. CA, Bay | 192, Heath Read, Papesrose Lloyd Couper & Co, 61, Queen's Read ans Joti Frodstam Lad... 7a, Winsch Steet. 475 5, Contin & Soma. 2335.7, Ledon Rd Sout 416 T'bridae Motce Wide Wells Watford .. W.L. Lewis & Sons.. $1, Church Street .. 210 Tiley 9, Feedeih Pee. 72 ons 52, Sidbury 283 Blan, Sid Wolverhampton. C. E. Cope & Sons.. 168-9, Stafford Street 22350, bry Worceter Worthiog .. 2. Whelands.... «56, Bronte Steet 1224 cee The Yeowl Motor Mar Honor. ss 267 Metur Man ve G8, Rowall (Yor) Lawrence Steet 2. 3793 Rowal gen L. York.

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