KULLU HANDLOOM SHAWL

UNDERSTANDING
OF APPAREL QUALITY

ASSIGNMENT–2

RAJEEV KUMAR
(BFT/19/774)
 GARMENT DEFECTS EXPLORATION

Defects is an imperfection that impairs worth or utilityii. Want or absence of

something necessary for completeness or perfectioniii. A fault that spoils the
material.

Fabric defect : A Fabric Defect is any abnormality in the Fabric that hinders its
acceptability by the consumer.

Fabric defect detection is of great importance for the quality control in the textile
industry. It is reported that the price of fabric is reduced by 45%-65% due to the
presence of defects, which results in the emergence of intelligent inspection
systems to ensure the high quality of products.

Importants :

 Due to the increasing demand for quality fabrics, high quality requirements
are today greater since customer has become more aware of poor quality
problems
 To avoid Rejection of fabric, It is necessary to avoid defects.


SOME OF THE COMMONLY OCCURRING DEFECTS IN WOVEN SHAWL

 Coloured Flecks  Slough Off

 Missing Ends  Float
 Knots  Shuttle Smash
 Missing Pick  Snarls
 Slub  Hole
 Oil and Other Stain  Stitches
 Broken Ends  Lashing In
 Oily Ends Bunch  Untrimmed Loose Threads
 Oily Picks  Local Distortion
 Broken Patterns  Weft Bar
 Reed Mark  Cut
 Double End  Tear
  COLOURED FLECKS : Presence of coloured foreign matterin the yarn.

Causes : Cotton fibres getting contaminated during theginning stage with

leaves, immature fibre, yellow fibre, etc.

Mending : Coloured portion is removed from the yarn witha plucker. The
resultant bare patch can be corrected bycombing with metallic comb.

 KNOTS : Knot is a fastening made by tying together the endsof yarn

Causes : Thread breaks during process ofwinding, warping, sizing or weaving

Mending : Non Mendable.

 SLUB : Slub is a bunch of yarn having less twist or no twistand has a

wider diameter compared to normal spun yarn
Causes : Broken tooth in the chain of gear system & Improper
carding/combing.

Mending : The slub should be cut with the clipper fromboth the ends. The
resultant bare patch can be corrected bycombing with a metallic comb or by
insertion of a separatethread with the help of fine needle

 BROKEN ENDS WOVEN IN A BUNCH : Broken ends woven in a

bunch This defect is causedby a bunch of broken ends woven into the
fabric

Causes : Failure of the weaver in attending the warp breaksproperly

Mending : The broken ends woven in a bunch can beremoved by using a
plucker and the resulting loose endsshould be cut with clipper. As a result, a
bare patch occursand combing in both directions with a metallic comb can
fillthis up.

 DOUBLE END : Double end When two or more ends gets woven as
one.This defect is characterized by a thick bar running parallelto the
warp.

Causes : Wrong drawing, taking more ends in heald eye.

Mending : This fault can be corrected by pulling out theextra end with the
help of needle. A bare patch is formedand can be filled by combing in both
directions with the helpof metallic comb.

 FLOAT : Float is the improper interlacement of warp andweft threads

over a certain area
 Causes : Broken end entangling with the other ends & Improper sizing (ends
sticking)

Mending : Only minor floats can be rectified. The floatingthreads are cut with
a clipper . Combing in both directionrectifies the resultant patch.

 GOUT : Gout is a foreign matter accidently woven into the fabric.

Causes : Unclean environment & Improper loom cleaning.

Mending : The extra foreign matter can be pulled out witha plucker. Combing
in both direction rectifies the resultant patch.
  HOLE, CUT, TEAR : Hole, Cut or Tear This is self explanatory

Causes : During removal of hard particles like, Iron particleswoven in the cloth

 Course temples used for fine fabric

 Hard substance between layers of fabric in cloth roll
 Sharp edges on cloth roll.

Mending : Non- Mendable

 MISSING ENDS : Missing Ends The fabric is characterised by a gap,

parallelto the warp. The number of ends missing may be one or more.
Causes :

 In electric warp stop motion, the electric bars are dirty orcorroded..
 Dirty drop wires or accumulation of lint may prevent theirdropping.
 Loom not equipped with warp stop motion.

Mending : When there are only two adjacent endsmissing, the fault can be
rectified by combing in bothdirections using a metallic comb. This may fill the
barepatch formed due to missing ends

 MISSING PICKS : Missing Picks A narrow streak running parallel with

weftthreads caused due to absense of weft.

Causes :

 Fell of the cloth not adjusted after loom stoppage formending.

 Faulty weft-stop motion.
 Faulty let-off and take-up motion.

Mending : When there are only two adjacent picksmissing, the fault can be
rectified by combing in bothdirections using a metallic comb. This may fill the
barepatch formed due to missing ends
  STITCHES : Stitches A Single thread float
Causes :

 In case of synthetic yarns, ends sticking together due tostatic charge during
weaving.
 Two adjacent ends sticking together during shedding for abrief period of
time.

Mending : Stitches are cut with a clipper from both theends. Combing in both the
directions with the help of ametallic comb may rectify the resultant bare patch
formed

 UNTRIMMED LOOSE THREADS : Untrimmed loose threads Any

hanging threads on the faceof the fabrics are termed as loose threads.

Causes : Tail ends not trimmed after piecing up

Mending : These defects can be easily rectified with thehelp of clipper.

  WEFT BAR : Weft bar An unwanted bar, running across the full width
ofa piece which differs in appearance from the adjacentnormal fabric.
Causes :

 Faulty let-off and take-up motion.MENDING Non mendable .

 Difference in count, twist, colour, lustre.

Mending : Non Mendable

 SHUTTLE SMASH : Shuttle smash Ruptued cloth structure

characterised bymany broken warp ends and floating picks.

Causes :

 Slack ends in certain portion. The sagging ends obstructsshuttle flight.

 Insufficient picking force
 Improper timing

Mending : Non mendable

  LASHING IN : Lashing in An extra piece of yarn woven into the fabric
inthe vicinity of the selvedge

Causes :

 In case of auto loom, weft cutters worn out or not. Set properly
 Early or late picking.
 Defective setting of the shuttle box

Mending : This defect can be corrected by pulling out theextra pick from the
selvedge end, which can be clipped withthe help of clipper. A bare patch is formed
and can be filledby combing in both directions with the help of mettaliccomb

 OILY ENDS : Oily Ends These are oily warp ends.

Causes :
 Improper handling of warp beams.
 Oil-contaminated guides and oily hands during process ofwarping.
 Improper handling and storage of material in spinningdepartmen

Mending :

 Keep the stained portion of the fabric over an absorbent pad. Apply the stain
remover, wetting the stain and surrounding portion thoroughly
 Rub gently to quicken the penetration of the stain remover
 Rubbing should be done towards the centre of stain to avoid spreading.Note:
Delicate fabric needs reduced pressure, otherwise, hole formation or
displacement of the fabric will occur

 LOCAL DISTORTION : Local distortion A Distortion occurs when there

isdisplacement of warp and/or weft threads from their normalposition.

Causes :

 In filament fabric having low reed picks.

 The emery roll is worn out

Mending : This defect can be corrected by combing in both directions using a

mettalic comb
 References :

https://www.intouch-quality.com/blog/5-common-fabric-
defects-prevent

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/
233754105_Fabric_Defect_Detection_in_Handlooms_Cottage_
Silk_Industries_using_Image_Processing_Techniques

https://www.craftsvilla.com/

http://www.craftclustersofindia.in/site/home.aspx

https://hpmandi.nic.in/handicraft/