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The Background of clothing

• Clothing, food, and shelter are some of the basic important needs of mankind
• Textiles were first developed as a means for carrying food and as mats in shelter.

Clothing • Only in later stages it is used as clothing.

• Humans often wear articles of clothing, also known as dress, garments or attire,
on the body. In its broadest sense, clothing includes coverings for the trunk and
PREPARED BY
limbs as well as coverings for hands, feet and head.
MONIKA PANGHAL

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Maslow’s hierarchy of needs theory

Why do you wear the clothes you • Clothing is considered

one of the physiological
do??? needs, which are the basic
needs for humans.

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Purpose of clothing
1. Protection
• Clothing’s are mainly used to cover our bodies, make us look more elegant and also to
express a lot about an individual’s status, personality and occupation. • Clothing is it provides protection from heat
cold, wind, and rain.
• Different clothing styles are used depend on occasions and social situations.
• It absorbs perspiration, prevents sudden
• Human wear clothes for functional and/or social reasons. Clothing protects the body chills, and acts as a buffer between your
and it also delivers social messages to other humans. body and accidental burns, scratches, and
rough surfaces.
• Purpose/need of clothing:
• Protection
• Modesty
• Identification
• Status
• Adornment
• Sanitation

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2. Modesty 3. Identification

• We all live in a society which has preset • Certain types of clothing,

unwritten rules as to how an individual colors, and accessories have
should or should not dress and all of us
invariably follow those rules.
become representative of
certain groups, activities,
• Modesty refers to what people feel is the and occupations.
proper way for clothing to cover the body.
• This means that a specific
• A different group of people follows
different standards of modesty. style of dressing along with
a specified accessory helps
every individual to easily
identify them in a big
crowd as to what their
occupation is.

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3. Identification 4. Status
• Uniforms can helps us
identify people as • Clothes are one of the important
member of a group factors that represent the status
symbol of an individual.
• Uniforms also identify
athletic teams. • In olden days the kings and queens
had a specific style of dressing which
• Baseball player
was very unique from the other
• Hockey player people, which made it easier to
• Tenis player identify them and understand their
• Football player etc. status.
• In today’s world in an official
meeting, the official wears like suits
and coat that too of a reputed
company or brand represents the
status of every individual.

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5. Adornment 6. Sanitation
• Clothes made of a particular quality is used by people working in some special jobs
• Every individual loves to look good therefore like chefs who work in the kitchen have to wear an apron, a hat and a mask while
each one of try to decorate ourselves with a cooking so that the food they make remains hygienic and is not contaminated.
certain style of clothing, jewelry, and • Also, people working in a food factory have to follow similar dressing code.
cosmetics which help in enhancing our
appearance and personality. • Surgeons to have to follow a dressing code and use disposable gloves, face mask, cap,
and aprons in order to avoid contamination.
• We decorate ourselves based on the
situations.
• Adornment, or decoration, also helps people
to express their uniqueness and creativity.

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Apparel product categories Sociological influence of apparel

• Women’s wear • Sociology is the study of society, Humans tend to do and believe what they
see
• Men’s wear
• Gender
• Children’s wear Categories • Occupation
• Occasion
• Social status
• Cultural background of person
• The place where person live (urban or rural).

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Gender Occupation
• The modern society not believe in gender biasness & strongly oppose this,
but we all are still comfortable in maintaining difference in male & female

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Occasions Indication of place, caste, religion

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Social status Cultural background of person

• The second factor which influenced on selection of clothing is cultural
background of person and upbringing of a person.

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The place where person live (urban or rural) Psychological/physiological influence of apparel

• Age • Comfort
• Size/Figure
• Activity level
• Self-concept :
• Self esteem (Self-esteem is the individual’s
global positive or negative attitude toward
himself or herself ),
• body image

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Age Size/Figure

• A small child required different types of cloth & a age person required
different type of cloth.
• Clothing selection also depends on physical health of person, the person who
have a special build of body required a different kind of cloth.
• Clothes should be in accordance with the figure irrespective of latest trends in
fashion.
• By judicious use of colours & clothes figure flaws can be camouflaged & salient
features highlighted.
• To look thinner and taller: Wear plain clothes of single color &
vertical lines and design
• To look shorter and fatter: Wear dress with multicolor and
horizontal lines

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Your Basic Needs

Who decides what clothes you
• Physical needs – comfort, protection and safety
wear?
• Clothing covers the body and protects from weather, harm and
injury
• Intellectual = communicate info about people and their lives
• Emotional= Make you feel attractive/confident
• Social needs= Help identify you with other people

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Your Activities Your Activities

• Linked to how and where you spend your time • A check of the weather guides our choices
• Sports
• Warm weather clothing feature light colors to reflect sunlight, loose styles
• Traveling
• Working • Cold weather clothing have multiple layers, heavy fabrics to trap air
• Hiker chooses comfortable shoes • School may have dress code
• Sports enthusiasts need protective gear • Part time job may have uniforms
• Weekend activities call for either casual or dress outfits

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Your Personal Preferences

• Your likes and dislikes
• People who want comfort
• Your values and beliefs guide your clothing choices • Choose clothes that feel good
• Wear well over time
• Examine your values to discover your overall attitude
• Looking for low cost
• What do you look for in clothing? • Special sales/bargains
 Comfort, durability • Preserve free time
 low cost, • Clothing with little care
 easy care, • Status
 status, • Looking for expensive expensive
 latest style • Have designer name
• Latest style/color

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Other Influences Influence of Friends

• Family, friends, media influence our choices
• Peer group- consists of people with a similar background, social status, and
age
Family • Friends/classmates
• Where the family lives and what they do • Big influence on how we act and dress
• Favorite activities
• Families who live in northern climates need
heavy coats, boots, etc.
• Families who enjoy outdoor activities need
clothing for hiking, water sports, etc.

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Impact of the Media Advertising

• Message are communicated through the media to a large audience • Tells you where the clothes are to buy
• Source of media: • Useful to consumers
 Television,
• Purpose is to sell product, image idea
 Radio,
 Movies, • Powerful tool
 Video,
 Magazine, • May not mention negatives in ad
 Newspapers,
• Look for facts
 Catalogs

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Celebrities Elements of design

• In creating a design one of the components which interact is the Art
• “imitation” is the sincerest for of flattery Elements
• Admire someone, they can influence your choices • The elements and principles of design are flexible and should be interpreted
• Entertainers = clothing, hairstyles, fashion within the context of current fashion.

• Sport celebrities endorse brand products
• A design can be defined as an arrangement of lines, shape, colors and
texture that create a visual image.
• The principles of design are the rates that govern how elements are
combined.
• The elements are therefore the raw materials that must be combined
successfully.

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Elements of design Line

• Line • It provides the visual dimensions of length and width.

• Form • Line can emphasize or minimize parts of a person’s body

• Shape • Lines are either structural (seams, hems, neckline) or decorative (stripes, plaids)

• Texture and Structural - lines required to maintain Decorative - lines created by the
designer purely for decoration; for
• Color the structure of the garment;
example, a printed-on design
for example, seams

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Structural lines Decorative lines

Vertical Line

• Vertical Lines can stop eye movement which will give volume
to an area
• Vertical lines go up and down. They lead the eye up and
down. They give the impression of height and slimness. They
also give the feeling of dignity, strength and poise.
• For the best effect, put vertical lines over an area of the body
you want to look slimmer.
Straight Curved Vertical Horizontal Diagonal
Lines Lines Lines Lines Lines

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Horizontal Line Diagonal Lines

• Horizontal Lines - symbolize rest, peace and • Diagonal Lines -dynamic and action-oriented
relaxation
• Adds excitement and movement to an outfit
• Go from side to side. They carry the eye from side
to side.
• They give the impression of less height and more
width. Tend relaxed, calm feeling.

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What line appears in this dress?

Curved line
• Curved line are the lines of nature, they are gracefully and gives a feminine
effect

Combination of straight, vertical, diagonal

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Form Shapes
• It is an object having three dimensions like length, width and depth. • It describes the outer dimensions or contour of an object.
• The human body is a form and by viewing it analytically, its various • It is the overall outline or silhouette.
perspectives are revealed.
• Examples: Squares, circles, ellipses, ovals, rectangles, triangles
• The human form changes visually with clothing, especially as fashion
changes.

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Color
• Color is one of the most important parts of designing. • Black, dark tones or deeply grayed colors tend to make the figure appear
smaller or slimmer than bright or light colors
• Color is the first thing we notice when we look at a piece
of clothing • A plain color makes the figure look slimmer than a combination of
contrasting colors.
• There are basic colors for the various seasons.
• Summer: bright and energetic
• Colors can affect how humans feel and act.

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Warm Colors: red, orange, and yellow
• These are the colors of fire, of fall leaves, and of sunsets and sunrises, and
are generally energizing, passionate, and positive.
• Red: very hot color. It’s associated with fire, violence, and warfare, love and
passion.
• Orange: vibrant, creativity, more friendly and energetic color
YELLOW (PRIMARY COLOR)
• brightest and most energizing of the warm colors. It’s associated with
happiness and sunshine. Yellow can also be associated with deceit and
cowardice, thoug
Cool colors: (green, blue, and purple)
GREEN (SECONDARY COLOR)
• down-to-earth color, new beginnings and growth. It also signifies renewal and
abundance. Alternatively, green can also represent envy or jealousy, and a lack of
experience. It can have balancing and harmonizing effect and is very stable.
BLUE (PRIMARY COLOR)
• Blue is often associated with sadness in the English language.
• Blue is also used extensively to represent calmness and responsibility.
• Dark blues are more strong and reliable. Blue is also associated with peace and has
spiritual and religious connotations in many cultures and traditions.
• Light blues are often relaxed and calming.

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PURPLE (SECONDARY COLOR) WHITE

• It’s associated with creativity and imagination, too.
• Dark purples are traditionally associated with wealth and royalty, while lighter purples
(like lavender) are considered more romantic.
• Neutrals
• Black
• is the strongest of the neutral colors.
• On the positive side, it’s commonly associated with power, elegance, and formality.
• On the negative side, it can be associated with evil, death, and mystery
• White is often associated with purity, cleanliness, and virtue. In the West, white is commonly
worn by brides on their wedding day. It’s also associated with the healthcare industry,
especially with doctors, nurses and dentists. White is associated with goodness, and angels are
often depicted in white.
GRAY
• It can sometimes be considered moody or depressing.
BROWN
• It is associated with the earth, wood, and stone. Brown can be associated with dependability
and reliability, with steadfastness, and with earthiness. It can also be considered dull.
BEIGE AND TAN
• t’s a conservative color in most instances, and is usually reserved for backgrounds. It can also
symbolize piety

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In Brief…
• Red: Passion, Love, Anger
Texture
• Orange: Energy, Happiness, Vitality
• As texture is the feel, drape and degree of stiffens and softness of the fabric.
• Yellow: Happiness, Hope, Deceit

• Green: New Beginnings, Abundance, Nature

• it also creates a visual effect upon the wearer, given a small swatch of fabric,
the designer can visualize the texture and the fall of fabric which helps him
• Blue: Calm, Responsible, Sadness to design further.
• Purple: Creativity, Royalty, Wealth • Smooth texture
• Black: Mystery, Elegance, Evil • Rough texture
• Gray: Moody, Conservative, Formality

• White: Purity, Cleanliness, Virtue

• Brown: Nature, Wholesomeness, Dependability

• Tan or Beige: Conservative, Piety, Dull

• Cream or Ivory: Calm, Elegant, Purity

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Smooth surface/texture Rough texture

• Reflects more light and, therefore, is a more intense color. • Absorbs more light and, therefore, appears darker.

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Principle of design
• Good outfit should have proportion, balance, harmony, emphasis and
Elements of design Principle of design rhythm to express art principles.

• Elements of design are the parts • Principle of design are the concepts
• They structure and carry the work • They affect content and message

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Proportion Balance
• In design involves the relationship of one part to • Balance is the feeling of rest and equilibrium. This is essential to the total
another. design of a costume.
• Uneven space relationships are more interesting • Types of balance
than even ones. • Symmetric or formal balance
• Asymmetric or informal balance

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Symmetric or formal balance Asymmetric or informal balance

• Is achieved when two sides of a design are alike on either side of its
vertical center. • It is achieved by using space, color, and the varying
importance of objects to produce a feeling of rest.

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Harmony
• unity + variety = harmony
• Unity-everything works together
• Variety-design is not boring, several
used to hold viewers attention
Emphasis
• It means that one part of a design must be more important
than the other parts. The eye should go first to this part.
• Points of attention in a design.
elements
• The feature in a design that attracts one's eye.

• is the pleasing combination/ arrangement of • The focal point.

hues, values, lines, shapes , texture and • Emphasis can be achieved through size, placement, color
intensities look like they belong together. and use of lines.

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Rhythm
• is the movement of the eye from one part of the design to other
parts. Repetition of a line or shape is one of the most common
ways of attaining rhythm.
• Rhythm is achieved when the lines, shapes, colors, textures, or
patterns in clothing and accessories are arranged to lead the
viewer’s eye easily from one part of the garment to another.
Thanks
• Repetition can be a repeat of lines, shapes, colors, or textures.

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Processes involved in the cutting section are:

Marker planning, The four main operations or

Spreading and processes involved in the cutting
section are:
cutting technology • Marker planning
• Fabric spreading
Chapter-10, 11
• Fabric cutting
• Preparation for the assembling
process

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Clothing Manufacturing Process

• Fabric goes through 3 major processes before becoming a garment. They

are:

Cutting Sewing Finishing

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Cutting room
Flow chart in garment industry
• The first stage in the manufacture of garments is the cutting of materials
into the necessary pattern shapes. These are then joined together by
means of seams to create three-dimensional garments.
• Where large quantities of a garment style must be cut, a lay is created
which consists of many plies of fabric spread one above the other.
• The three processes involved in cutting of garment parts accurately and
economically and in sufficient volume to keep the sewing room supplied
with work are:
• The Planning, drawing, and reproduction of the marker
• The spreading of the fabric to form a lay
• The cutting of the fabric

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Marker Marker Reproduction

• It is an illustration of accurate and precise planning of The Marker Reproduction is done in different ways as per the requirement of
the unit:
patterns for a particular style of garment and the sizes to be
• Directly on Fabric
cut from a single spread on a marker paper. • Mark on Paper
• To prepare an efficient marker, the width of the fabric to be • Plot on Paper by an automated plotter.
spread in a lay as well as the number of pattern pieces to be • Directly cut using the CNC Cutters
included in the marker plan for all the required sizes should
be known prior to it.
• Marker width that is less than fabric width leads to more
fabric wastage while marker width that is wider than fabric
results in incomplete cut components.

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Marker making Types of Markers

1. Sectioned Markers
• Contain all the pattern pieces
for one style in one or two
sizes.

2. Continuous Markers
• Contain all the pattern pieces
for all sizes included in a
single cutting.

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Marker Making Marker Planning depends on…

Marker Marker
Marker Nature of Fabric and
Requirements of Requirements of
Utilization/ Desired result in
Planning Making quality in cutting Production Planning
production Garment
• Pattern alignment in • Free movement of • Size ratios
Marker planning, Marker utilization, relation to the grain Knife • Best Utilization of
of the fabric • Total no. of patterns cutting room
or the placement which may include • Fabric Symmetry & have to be included • Fabric Savings
of pattern pieces drawing the marker Asymmetry in a lay. • Efficiency of marker
to meet technical plan directly onto • Design • Correct labeling of plan
requirements such fabric, drawing it onto a Characteristics of cut parts(during
as no. of pieces, the Finished bundling).
paper marker by pen or Garment
grain, etc. and the automatic plotter.
needs of material
economy.
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Requirements of Marker Planning Requirements of Marker Planning

1. Nature of the fabric and the desired result in the finished 2. Requirements of quality in cutting
garment • Free movement of blade/cutter
• Total number of patterns in marker
a) Alignment of patterns with respect to fabric grain – • Sorting and bundling of cut fabric panels (as per colour
• All the patterns in the marker plan should be kept such and size)
that the grain line in the pattern should be parallel to the
fabric selvedge for better hanging and draping of
garments.

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Requirements of Marker Planning Requirements of Marker Planning

1. Nature of the fabric and the desired result in the finished garment
b) Fabric symmetry and asymmetry –
• If the face and back side of the fabrics have a similar appearance
(when they are turned round through 180°), then they are called
‘two-way’ or ‘symmetrical’ fabrics and it does not warrant any
special requirement while marker planning.
• The asymmetric fabric where the face and back are dissimilar
needs some attention during marker planning. Examples of
asymmetric fabrics are those having a nap or pile. More
complicated fabrics are ‘one way’ or ‘asymmetrical’.
3. Requirements of Production Planning
• Each order is specified by a certain quantity with respect
to size and colour.
• For example, an order for 12,000 trousers may include
4800 blue, 4800 green and 2400 red, across sizes 30, 32,
34 and 36 in the ratio 2:4:4:2.
• The production planning and control department have to
ensure adequate supply of cut components to the sewing
room at regular intervals.

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Requirements of Marker Planning Methods of Marker Planning

1. Manual Marker Planning

1. Nature of the fabric and the desired result in the finished
garment

c) Design requirements in final garment –

• Design aspects of final garments also have to be
considered while marker planning to get a better visual
appearance of the finished garment. For instance, if a
vertical stripe in a garment does not exhibit a complete
replica of a repeat on the right and left panels of garment
it looks awkward.

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Methods of Marker Planning Marker Efficiency

1. Manual Marker Planning • Marker efficiency refers to fabric utilisation and is defined as the percentage of
• It is the conventional marker planning method and is still the total fabric that is actually utilised in garment components.
used by the garment industries where they make single • It depends on how closely the patterns are arranged in the marker; that is, length
garment markers.
of marker. The marker efficiency is defined by the formula as given below:
• The marker planner works easily by moving around the
full-size patterns until an acceptable marker plan is
obtained. Marker Efficiency (%) = Area of patterns in the marker plan *100
Total area of the marker
• Multiple copies of the marker are usually required, which
can be done by reproducing the master marker with
different types of duplicating methods (for example- The factors affect the marker efficiency are :
Carbon duplicating method).
• Characteristics of fabric,
• profile/shape of the pattern pieces
• grain requirements.
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Methods of Marker Planning Cut order plan

2. Computer Aided Marker Planning • ‘Lay plan’, ‘cut plan’

• VDU with keyboard, mouse • Cut order planning is nothing but deciding the arrangement or
combination of markers and spread lays for a particular
• Specifie fabric width, no. of pieces, sizes and constraints
garment style order.

Digitizer 20 23

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Methods of Marker Planning Fabric Inspection

2. Computer Aided Marker Planning • Fabric has always remained the cynosure of problems in
• This method is normally part of an integrated system which includes digitising or garment industry, it accounts for the maximum cost,
scanning of full-size patterns into the computer.
• The planner uses a visual display unit (VDU) with keyboard, tablet and data pen,
consumes maximum lead time to procure and continuously
puck or mouse. change it is texture and colour every season to cause
• The planner specifies the exact make-up of the marker plan, like the width of the headache for production personnel.
fabric, the pattern pieces to be used, the sizes to be included and all constraints to
be applied, including any matching of checks.
• The system produces a marker plan automatically or interactively.

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• Slanted tables with opaque glass top

and light source from top and bottom
1. Manual fabric as the fabric inspection platforms.
inspection • The crucial job of identifying defects
still lies on operators’ skill.
• Finally operators need to put sticker, Marker paper on top of lay
analyse and segregate rolls. 26
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2. Automatic fabric inspection Spreading of Fabric

• The objective of spreading is to place the required number of

• Automated fabric inspection plies of fabric one on top of the other (lay), that the
systems are based on adaptive,
neural networks. production planning process has dictated, to the length of
• This coupled with specialized marker plan, in the colours required, correctly aligned as to
computer processors that have length and width, and free from tension.
the computing power of several
hundred Pentium chips makes • The lay height depends on order size, fabric characteristic,
these systems viable. capacity of the spreader, cutting method and equipment used.
• These machines are designed to
find and catalogue defects in a
wide variety of fabrics including
greige fabrics, sheeting, apparel
fabrics, upholstery fabrics,
industrial fabrics, tire cord,
finished fabrics, piece-dyed
Video fabrics and denim fabrics.

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Fabric Spreading Before Spreading You Should Know…

• Spreading is the process of superimposing lengths of fabric on •No. of Cuts Planned

a spreading table, cutting table.
•Sizes Planned in each cut
•Length of the marker
•No. of plies planned in each marker
•Width of the roll

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Objectives/requirements of the Spreading Process

1. Shade Sorting of Fabric Rolls

Nap one-way face to
face spreading

While spreading fabrics of

more than one roll in a
Nap either way & face
spread, they have to be to face spreading
separated by means of Spreading
interleaving paper, which Mode
aids in easy identification Nap one way & face
one way spreading
and separation of the plies
for bundling.
Nap either way & face
one way spreading

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Objectives /requirements of the Spreading Process Objectives /requirements of the Spreading Process

2. Ply Direction and Lay Stability 1. Shade Sorting of Fabric Rolls

2. Ply Direction and Lay Stability
3. Alignment of Plies
4. Correct Ply Tension
5. Elimination of Fabric Faults
6. Elimination of Static Electricity, Fusion in Cutting
7. Avoiding Distortion in the Spread
(a glazed paper with its glossy side kept down is put at the
top of the spreading table )

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Video Video2
Types of Spreads

Figure :Types of spread.

1. Flat spreads (scrambled spread)
(a) Alternate plies in different 2. Stepped spreads (section spreads)
directions; symmetrical pattern
pieces; fabric stable face to
face.

(b) Alternate plies in different

directions; fabric stable face
up; turntable spreader.

(c) All plies in the same

direction; fabric stable face up.

(d) All plies in the same

direction; symmetrical pattern
pieces; fabric stable face to
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face; turntable spreader. 37

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Types of Spreads Manual spreading machine

1. Flat spreads (scrambled spread) –In this type of spread, all plies are of
the same length.

2. Stepped spreads (section spreads) –

• In this method, the spread is normally built like small steps, with all the
fabric plies in a step having the same length.
• It is commonly used when the order needs to cut the imbalance between
the quantities to be cut, which prevents the use of the flat spread.

For example we required to cut 95 singles of a size 14 dress and 65 singles of

a size 12 dress, all in the same colour, In this case we will spread Sixty-five
plies of the fabric would be spread to a length to include both markers,
followed on top and at one end by a further 30 plies of a length to fit the size
14 marker. The marker containing the size 12 patterns would then be placed
on top of the 65 plies and the marker containing the size 14 patterns on top
of the 95 plies. This is known as stepped spread.
Video 1 Video 2
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Spreading Table Process/methods of Spreading

• Spreading normally requires a flat, smooth surface. Manual spreading machine –

• Spreading and cutting tables are available in standard widths.
A spreading table should be about 10″wider than the fabric
width.
• It may have rails fixed on the top of a spreading table to guide
and control the spreader as it moves along the length of the
table.
• This is one of the most common types of machine available
in garment factories in Ethiopia.
• In this case, two persons are normally required. One
operator at each side of the table for the spreading
operation aligning the plies manually.
• Fabric package is supported on frame and operator aligns
the plies manually along the table where the end is
secured by weights or a clamp.
• The fabric plies cut with hand shears, circular knife etc.
• It is a time-consuming method, but such machines are
Ideal for small-scale production.

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Process/methods of Spreading Automatic spreading machine

•Manual Spreading
•Auto Spreading

Manual fabric spreading: Video Auto fabric spreading: Video video

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Process/methods of Spreading Nature of fabric packages

Automatic spreading machine – 2. Tubular knitted fabric – rolled and plaited

• These are the advanced solutions for spreading fabric. This kind of form is used for the manufacture of
• The machine head carries the piece of fabric from end garments like underwear, sports shirts and t-shirts. It represent
to end of the spread, dispensing one ply at a time the fabric in width-wise folds rather than in a roll, helps to avoid
onto the spread consist of a frame or carriage wheels tension in the fabric.
traveling in guide rails at the edge of the table, a fabric
support, and guide collars to aid the correct unrolling
of the fabric.
• Number of plies to be laid can be set and the spreader
repeats the laying process until it achieves the
required number of plies.
• When piece is finished, the spreader returns to an
auto lifter at the end of the table, transfers the empty
centre bar to the lifter which then advances the next
piece to the spreader.
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Nature of fabric packages

• Spreading machines carry the piece of fabric from end to end 3. Folded fabric – rolled and plaited
of the spread, dispensing one ply at a time on the spread.
• The fabric is rolled onto a flat board (1-2 cm thick) and
• Spreading machines may include:
the width of the fabric varies from about 70–80 cm folded.
 A motor to drive
 A platform on which the operator rides
 A ply cutting device with automatic catcher to hold the
ends of ply in place
 A ply counter
 An alignment shifter actuated by photo electric edge
guides
 A turntable
 A direct drive on the fabric support, synchronized with the
speed of travel, to reduce or eliminate tension in the fabric
being spread.
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Nature of fabric packages Nature of fabric packages

1. Open fabric – rolled 4. Velvet – hanging

• Open fabric package or roll is formed by the open
width fabric which is used for making woven garments.
In most of the time, fabric is supplied by wrapping over
a tube in garments manufacturing industry which is
about 7 to 8cm diameter.
• More rarely, velvets may be delivered wound on
specially constructed frames to prevent the pile from
becoming crushed.

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Advancements in Spreading Quality Requirement in Cutting

• Fabric defect marking sensors (in Automatic spreading

machines ) Clean Edges
• In this system, a reflective label is normally fixed at the selvedge of the
fabric during the fabric pre-inspection. Automatic spreading machines
having this sensor detect the label as it crosses the electric edge control Un-scorched, un-fused edges
eye and stops the machine and allows spreader to trace the defect.

• Air flotation tables Precision of Cut

• The fabric can be spread on one table and then transferred to the cutting
table with a conveyor arrangement by minimizing the handling and
transportation time. With the air flotation facility in spreading tables, a lay Freedom of knife movement
can be transported easily to the adjacent cutting table.

• Vacuum table
Pattern Count
• The vacuum is applied from the bottom of the table through small holes
in the table to compress the lay and stabilise it.
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Quality Requirement in Cutting

1. Accuracy of Cut
• Garments cannot be assembled satisfactorily, and they may not fit the
body correctly, if they have not been cut accurately to the pattern
Fabric cutting shape.

2. Clean Edges
• The fabric edges after cutting should not show fraying or snagging.
These defects are due to an imperfectly sharpened knife, which could
result in heat generation due to friction with fabric which leads to
fabric damage. The heat generation during cutting with knives could
be reduced by means of using sharpened knife blades, serrated or
wavy edge knife, utilisation of anti-fusion paper between fabric,
spraying of lubricant over the blades and reducing the lay height and
blade.

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Fabric Cutting Quality Requirement in Cutting

• Process of separating a spread into garment components as a 3. Consistent cutting

replica of pattern pieces on a marker. • Based on the method of cutting employed, the lay height
• It also involves transferring marks and notches from the will vary. To get a consistent quality of cutting, the lay
marker to garment components to facilitate sewing. height should be as low as possible without affecting the
production planning and quality of cutting.

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Cutting Tools Straight knife

• The elements of a straight knife consist of a base plate, a

•Hand Shears
straight, vertical blade, and an electric motor above it, a
•Straight Knife handle for the cutter to direct the blade, and a sharpening
device.
•Round Knife • It is versatile, cheaper, portable and easy to maintain. It is
•Band Knife suitable for cutting curved lines.
• A straight knife cutter has a vertical blade which reciprocates
•Notcher up and down. The straight knife is pushed forward by the
•Drills operator manually.
• The straight knife machines are one of the most useful cutting
•Computer Controlled Cutters machines in garments.
•Die Cutters • Lay of higher height can be cut very easily. It is convenient to
cut the lay of 10 inches height.

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Hand shears Round knife

• Hand shears are normally used for cutting single or double

fabric plies. The lower blade passes under the plies; but the
consequent distortion of the fabric is temporary and accurate
cutting to the line can be achieved with practice. Left-handed
shears and right hand shears are also available.

Video
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Straight knife Round knife

• As the name indicates, it has a rotating circular blade so that

the leading edge cuts downwards into the fabric.
• The elements of a round knife are a baseplate, above which is
mounted an electric motor, a handle for the cutter to direct
the blade, and a circular/round blade rotating so that the
leading edge cuts downwards into the fabric.
• Round knife is mostly use for cutting the big parts of the
garments pattern.
• It is used only for cutting straight lines rather than curved
ones.

Video
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Band knife Die cutting

• The die is a knife in the shape of a pattern periphery,

including notches. The die is placed on fabric lays and forced
to cut in the exact shape of a pattern.
• Die cutting is only appropriate to situations where large
quantities of the same pattern shape are to be cut.
• Die cutting also offers much faster cutting than knife cutting
for the same depth of cut.
• It is proportionally more economic for small parts.

Video
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Band knife Computerised cutting

• The principle of operation is different from a straight or a

round knife in that the band knife passes through a slot in the
cutting table in a fixed position and the section of lay to be cut
is moved (by hand) past it.
• This type of machine is used to cut small parts of a garment
like collars, cuff and collar bands.
• Space must be left around garment parts when planning the
marker so that they can be sectioned out using a straight knife
and then cut exactly using the band knife.

Video 1 Video 2 Video 3

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Die cutting Computerised cutting

• This method gives the most precise and accurate cutting at

high speed.
• The frame/carriage supporting the cutting head has two
synchronised servo-motors, which drive it on tracks on the
edges of the table.
• A third servo-motor keeps/positions the cutting head at an
accurate position on a beam across the width of the carriage.
• The cutting head includes a knife, sharpener and a servo-
motor to rotate the knife.
• After loading the disc having the marker plan into the
computer, the operator positions the cutting head’s origin
light over the corner of the spread (reference point) and
cutting system works according to the instructions.
Video
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Laser cutting Water jet cutting

• In this, fabric is cut with the help of water.

• A very high velocity, small diameter stream of water is
generated by applying high pressure water to a nozzle. This
high pressure water jet acts as a solid tool (means) to cut the
fabric.
• The drawbacks of this system are water spotting, wet edges
and inconsistent cutting quality.
• Water jet cutting is most effective with harder sheet
materials, leather and plastic.

Video
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Laser cutting Auxiliary devices

• A laser produces a beam of light that could be focused into a Notcher

very small point/spot (0.25 mm), producing a very high energy
density and result in localised increase in temperature.
• In this system, cutting takes place by way of burning, melting
and vaporisation.
• The limited depth of fabric cutting (single or two plies) is the
major drawback of this system.
 Lasers are not common for cutting garments, but they have
been used successfully in home furnishings and in the cutting
of sails (where edge fusing is actually desirable).
Hand Notcher

Notcher machine

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Water jet cutting Notcher

• Notcher are used to produce notch with a greater accuracy

and consistent depth at right angle to the edge.
• Notches are cut into the edges of garment parts to enable
alignment during sewing with other garments parts. Notches
also help in distinguishing front and back of the garment cut
pieces.
• There are different notch profiles like straight notches and ‘V’
notches.

Video
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Auxiliary devices Types of fusing machines

Drill • It is used to drill marks through all

the layers of fabric for the position 1. Flat Bed Fusing machines
of pockets and darts. 2. Continuous Fusing machines
• when an identification mark is
required inside the body of a
panel to illustrate the dart point,
pocket location, or location of an
inner element such as a pocket or
appliqué etc. and help the sewing
machine operators for proper
Video Video positioning.
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Clamp 1. Flat- bed fusing machine-

Are manually set spring clips that hold the edge of a cut • It consists of two horizontal
bundle square and prevents shifting of the plies. metal plates.
• This is a static method whereby
the assembly is fed or positioned
onto the bottom plate and the
head or the top plate is closed
over it and heat is provided by
electric element.

Video
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Fusing 2. Continuous fusing machine

• Fusing is essentially a method of joining two textile surfaces  It is the most common fusing machine
used in the garments
by the means of thermoplastic adhesive resins.
manufacturing industries.
• The fusible interlining consists of a base fabric which carries
 This type of machine has an endless
on its surface a thermoplastic adhesive resin, usually in the
conveyer system for transporting the
form of small dots, which melts when heated to a assemblies successfully through the
specific temperature. heating, pressure and cooling stages.

• On application of heat and pressure the resin, laid onto the

garment part, will flow into the fabric of the garment thus
attaching the interlining permanently.
Video Video Video
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• Cutting- after the completion of the above operations the laid

fabric will be separated into the exact copy of the pattern
pieces by the operation cutting. There should be a qualified
person to perform the operation so that precise cuts, clean
edges and other cutting defects can be reduced. After cutting,
bundling and ticketing is done.

• Ticketing - is a process whereby each cut piece of fabric is given Garment Sewing
a unique number so that cut pieces of different shades do not
get mixed and sewn together resulting in garment rejection.
• Bundling - cut pieces after passing through ticketing and
fusing need to be bundled or tied up together before taken to
the sewing operation.

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Preparation for sewing

Numbering/ticketing
Construction of Garment Parts

• All cut parts need to be numbered before sending to sewing section to Seams
avoid shade variation while assembling.
• All the parts in a single garment should possess the same panel number. • Seaming is a mean of joining two or more parts of a
Generally, size of the garment is also mentioned in the number and the garment together to form a finished edge.
last two digits are the running numbers. • The type of seam selected should suit the fabric, type of
garment and position of the seam in the garment.
• The following are four types of seams which are commonly
used on garments.
• Plain Seam (Open Seam)
• Top-stitching Seams
• French Seam
• Flat-felled Seam
Video Video-Bundling
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Preparation for sewing Plain Seam (Open Seam)

Ticketing & bundling • Plain seam is the most commonly used of all seams to sew two
• Tickets carry details : style no, size, ply no, bundle no., date garment pieces together.
issued
• It is used on side seams, shoulder seams and style lines. It can be
Bundling applied in most fabrics, except knits.
 Small batches of garments move from one work station to another in a • The seam allowances of plain seams may be pressed to one side or
controlled way
they may be pressed open.

Bundle ticket consists of

Order no.
Bundle no.
Quantity:
Style no.
Size :
Section collar

82 *RS = right side of fabric *WS = wrong side of fabric 85

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Top-stitching Seams Sewing machine

• Top stitching seams are topstitched from the right • Sewing machine - A Sewing machine is a textile
side. machine used to stitch fabric and other material
• Topstitching is the good way to emphasize a together with thread.
construction detail, hold seam allowances flat or
decorate the plain fabric.

OR

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French Seam

• French seam is stitched twice, once from the right side and once
from the wrong side.
• The raw edges of fabric are enclosed so that fraying does not
occur. This seam gives a finished seam look from the outside of the
garment as well as from the inside.

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Flat-felled Seam

• Flat-felled seam is a very strong and durable form of

construction for sportswear. It provides a clean finish to
both sides of the garment.
• It is also frequently used for setting sleeves on men’s
shirts

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Lower portion of sewing machine

• In this machine the
stitch is formed by
two or more needle
threads passing
through the
material, inter
looping on the
underside and
interlocking on the
upper side.

• These machines
FLATLOCK MACHINE are mainly used for
knits.

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Lockstitch Machine Bar Tacking Machine

o It is used to make more tight stitches across the point to be
reinforced.
• Lockstitches appear identical on both sides; they are
o The applications of the bar tack machine in the garment industry are
reversible. given below:
• It is one of the most versatile items of equipment in the Reinforcing the ends of pocket opening.
sewing room. Sewing on belt loops.
• It is widely used to sew seams in woven-fabric garments Attachment of labels.
and to construct garment details.

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Overlock Sewing Machine Buttonhole Machines

• The main function of overlock (overedge or sergers) • Used for creating buttonholes in the garment and to
machines is to trim and cover rough edges of fabrics finish the edges.
in order to present a clean and neat appearance
where seam edges are visible.

Seam appearance
Overlock sewing machine Seam appearance
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Button Sewing Machine 12 needle flat bed double

chain stitch with shirring
• Used to sew the button in the garment without
damaging it.

Multi needle chain

stitch machine

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Feed of Arm Sewing Machine

o It is used to stitch a tubular seam of narrow width on the edge of
shirts and trousers.
o This machine is largely used for attaching sleeves.
o This m/c is common for sewing outside leg seams in jeans.
Sewing machine attachments/Work aids
 The extra machine parts/ Attachments which may be
attached to general sewing machine to speed up the
production and improve quality in the sewing
machine are called work aids.

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Blind Stitch Machine

o This machine is used for fastening hems or facings. It
Machine attachment types
performs this operation without the stitch impression
showing on the right side of the garment.
o Example of Blind machine’s use is in the bottom hem of
trousers.

Edge Guide

Binder

Seam appearance Folder

zipper foot

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107

Sewing needle Types of thread

Spun Threads
1. Type of Sewing Thread
• Needle are available in different sizes.
 Spun threads are made from staple fibres spun into single yarn.
• For different fabrics, different needles Two or more plies of spun yarns are plied to make a sewing
thread.
are used.  Spun Threads have excellent sewing performance with soft feel.
• For different threads, different needle sizes are  Spun Threads are less strong than filament threads.
 It can be used in light as well as heavy weight fabric.
used.
Long Groove Eye Core Spun Threads
 Core spun yarn has a continuous filament core (about 76%)
covered with cotton, rayon or polyester (about 24%). Two or
more of these composite yarns are twisted to form core spun
Shank Shoulder
thread.
Short  Core spun threads has excellent tenacity, soft touch, low
Blade Scarf Point
Groove shrinkage.
 Core spun threads are costliest thread 107

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Sewing Thread
2. Thread Packages packages

Garment finishing

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Thread twist Pressing

• When a sewing thread is constructed, it is made up of
multiple strands, usually two or three strands (also
referred to as plies or ply) twisted together, although
some may have as many as six or eight strands twisted
together.
• S-twist threads are appropriate for use in double-
needle machines.
• Single needle machines uses Z-twist.
• Ironing, Pressing and Finishing are all different
processes that are used to remove “unwanted crease”
& impart “wanted crease”. A crease can be removed
either by compressing between two flat surfaces or by
applying tension.
• Pressing is the process of application of heat, pressure
and moisture to shape or crease garments or garment
components into the geometric forms proposed by
the designer.

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PRESSING EQUIPMENT AND METHODS

Irons

Tunnel finisher Thanks

Pressing Table
Carousel pressing machine 113

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PRESSING EQUIPMENT AND METHODS

Hoffman press Dolly press / Steam air finisher

111

CAROUSEL pressing machine

Consist of 2 or 4 heads & bucks.
It comprise vertically mounted top bucks and bottom bucks which rotates
through 180° or 120°.

Dolly press / Steam air finisher/Steam air bag

It consists of a frame carrying a steam distribution system,
compressed air distribution system and a pressing form which is a
canvas bag in the approximate shape of the garment to be pressed,
i.e. a body shape but with no sleeves.

Hoffman press
• It comprises of a static buck and a hinged head plate, these 2
major components are virtually identical in size and shape.
• Garments are positioned on the static buck.
• At the commencement of the pressing cycle the head plate is
driven downwards by a foot controller or by hand. 112

112

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• Pattern making is an art.

• It is the art of manipulating and
shaping a flat piece of fabric to
conform to one or more curves
of the human figure.
WHAT IS • Pattern making is a bridge
PATTERN function between design and
Introduction To Pattern MAKING ?? production.
Making And Grading • A sketch can be turned into a
CHAPTER - 4 garment via a pattern which
interprets the design in the form
of the garment components.
PREPARED BY: MONIKA PANGHAL

1 2

PATTERN PATTERN MAKING

TOOLS
• 2D template that
represents the shape that 1. Straight pins
will be cut out in fabric. 2. Push pins
3. Straight pin holder
• A pattern is flat while the
body is not.

3 4

PATTERN MAKING TOOLS

4. Scissors and shears

Paper scissors 6. 36-inch ruler
Fabric scissors. 7. Tailor’s square/L
sacle—24 X14-inch
metal ruler with two
arms forming a 90°
angle
Tailor’s square/ L-
square
5. Pencils and pens: 8. Triangle with
 Use 4-H lead for pattern work. measurements to
 Coloured pencils square lines.

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12. Notcher

9. Curve rules
13.Tracing wheels
10. French curve Pointed wheel
11.Hip curve rule Blunted wheel

7 8

• Anthropometry is the study of

the measurement of the human
ANTHROPOMETRY
body in terms of the
dimensions of bone, muscle,
14.Tailor’s chalk and adipose (fat) tissue
• The purpose of the
anthropometry component is
15. Measuring tape—60 to collect high quality body
inches long measurement data using
standardized examination
procedures and calibrated
16. Metal weight equipment

9 10

BODY MEASUREMENT THREE-DIMENSIONAL SCANNER

• The latest measuring techniques use

• Body measurements are important for pattern construction.
high accuracy electronic equipments
There are two methods to obtain body measurement:
such as three-dimensional scanners
• Direct body measurement
and computers to store and analyse
• Three- dimensional scanner
data.
• The body must dress the tight-fitted
Direct Measurement clothing and stand inside the
• This is a kind of traditional manual measuring method. This scanning chamber. The laser beams
method is measured the dimension of human bodies by using will scan on the body and send the
a measuring tape. data to a computer for analysis and
form a three-dimensional image.

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SIZE CHART
SYMBOL KEY • Garment size chart represents a set of measurements which
will suit and fit a category of people when wearing the
• CF _ Center front clothes.
• CB _ Center back • Size codes, usually in the form of numbers or alphabets are
used in the size chart to indicate garment size. Some of the
• BP _ Bust point size codes used in different places are as follows
• SS _ Side seam
• SW _ Side waist
• SH _ Shoulder
• HBL _ Horizontal balance line
• SH-TIP _ Shoulder Tip

13 14

Drafting
METHODS
OF
PATTERN
MAKING Draping

Flat paper
patternmaking
Drafting

15 16

DRAFTING

It involves measurements derived from sizing systems • Drafting is an engineered method of Pattern
or accurate measurements taken on a person, dress or making, based on a set of body
measurements.
body form.
OR
Measurements are marked on paper and construction
• Drafting is a method of pattern making,
lines are drawn to complete the pattern.
based on a set of body measurements.
Drafting is used to create basic, foundation or design • It is a two-dimensional basic method of
patterns. preparing a paper pattern.

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DRAPING Draping of a two-dimensional

DRAPING piece of fabric (muslin fabric is
preferred) around a form,
conforming to its shape,
creating a three-dimensional
“Draping is an artistic fabric pattern.
approach in which the
person makes pattern
by fitting cloth to the
curves of a dress form or This muslin is transferred to
human figure”. paper to be used as a final
pattern.

19 20

CONTD…

• Draping is most preferred by

designers, as this method brings
their vision into reality.
• Draping is one of the best
methods of creating patterns. +
• This muslin is transferred to Dress form for children
Dress form for men
paper to be used as a final pattern.
• Draping allows one to visualize
the garment before it is cut and
stitched.
Dress form for women

21 22

DIFFERENCE BETWEEN
DRESS FORMS Mannequin
• Dress forms don't have a • Mannequins are the complete
head or limbs. figures of human being, basically
• Dress forms model from the used for displaying purpose,
neck to the top of the thighs rather than designing.
and the form is fixed on to a
wood or metal stand.

Dress form without arm, legs

Dress form with leg, arm

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METHODS OF PATTERN MAKING

• A basic pattern or sloper is the
FLAT PATTERN starting point for flat pattern
MAKING designing.
1. Drafting
• It is a simple pattern that fits the
2. Draping
body with just enough ease for
3. Flat paper patternmaking movement and comfort.
• Widely used in the ready-to-
wear market because it is fast
and accurate.

25 26

• A basic sloper has no PATTERN

Difference seam allowances, no
between sloper design interest, only
GRADING
and pattern construction lines are
marked on it

• While pattern has seam BY:

MONIKA PANGHAL
allowance with all style
lines and design features.
27 28

Monika Panghal Monika Panghal

29
GRADING GRADING METHOD
• Process of systematically increasing and
decreasing the dimensions of a master size
1. Manual pattern grading or two-dimensional
pattern into a range of sizes for production. grading
• Due to cost constraints and time, one sample 2. Computer-aided pattern grading or three-
size pattern is developed and fitted, and then
dimensional grading
other sizes are graded from this master
pattern.
• Grading becomes necessary when large
numbers of different sized garments have to be
produced in a relatively shorter time as is
done in the garment industry.

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Monika Panghal Monika Panghal

• Grading is done by hand. Advantages:

• The desired range of size is created one by • Cost effective process
one using pattern templates/master patterns.
Disadvantages:
• A first master pattern pieces are sketched on
the pattern board and then the points are • Time consuming process
marked around the pattern pieces as per the • Expected accuracy may not be
direction of grade rules. obtained.
• In this way we can get both the enlarged or reduced size patterns for all
sizes of a particular style of garments.

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Monika Panghal

COMPUTER-AIDED Types of pattern

PATTERN GRADING
• At first grade rules are stored in the computer memory
and then the computer can automatically develop pattern • Basic block or block pattern
sets for all sizes using the direction given in the grade
chart.
Advantages: • Basic pattern set
• Quick process i.e. less time consumption; • A five-piece pattern set
• High accuracy may be obtained
Disadvantages:
• High initial cost is involved
• Skilled operator is required.

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THANK YOU

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FASTENINGS
• Fastenings are a subdivision of trimmings.
• The function of fastenings is to hold garment parts together and allow
the garment to be put on and taken off.
• Fastenings can also be used in decorative purpose. They include
GARMENT FASTENING zippers, buttons and buttonholes, snaps, hooks and eyes, hook and
bars, velcro, buckles and eyelets, etc.
ITEMS/CLOSURES
CHAPTER- 5 PREPARED BY: MONIKA PANGHAL

1 2

ZIPPERS • Separating zippers (Open-ended zippers): are opened at both ends.

• Zippers make a complete closure by means of interlocking teeth or This type of zipper is usually used on jackets.
coils.
• The three main types of zippers are:
(i) conventional,
(ii) separating and
(iii) invisible. • Invisible zippers: are opened at one end and the coils are self-
concealed in the seam. The invisible zippers look like a smooth,
continuous seam line on the garment.
(i) Conventional zippers (Close-ended zippers):are opened at one end.

3 4

BUTTONS BUTTONHOLES
• Buttons are 3D forms used in conjunction with buttonholes for fastening of garments.
• Buttonholes are finished opening sized to accommodate a button
• Buttons can be used alone as decoration. without straining the garment fabric.
• Two basic types of button are:
• Buttonholes are made on the overlap of the garment.
• sew-through button and
• shank button. • Garments may have vertical or horizontal buttonhole.
• Sew-through buttons: have two or four holes for attachment to garments with
threads
• Shank button has a stem extension under the surface of the button for attaching the
button to garments.

Sew-through buttons
Shank button

5 6

1

SNAPS
• Snaps are paired of opposing circular plate, moulded with mating balls and sockets.
• They can be a variety of sizes and are used to fasten a garment area where a smooth,
flat closure is desired.
• Type of snaps
1. Sew-on snap
• It is necessary to attach the sew-on snap fasteners by means of hand stitching.
7 8
HOOKS AND BARS
• A set of shaped metal plates includes one of the plates that is curved to
form a broad hook, the other is a raised bar receptacle.
• They are commonly attached to waistbands for fastening
9 10
ELASTICS
• Elastics are thread, cord and braided of woven ribbon or fabric which
have resilience and flexibility.
• The stretchable core substance is covered with cotton, silk, synthetic
or yarn blends.
• Elastics may be applied directly to garments by a lockstitch, zigzag or
overedge machines or may be enclosed in casings.
• • They are commonly used on garment openings which
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NO-SEW SNAP
• They are pressed onto garments by special button-pressing machines.
• One set of no-sew snap consists of a cap, a socket, a stud and a post.
• The face surface of snap may be decorative in size, shape or color.
HOOKS AND EYES
• A set of wire fasteners includes one of fasteners shaped into an
engaging hook and the other is a receptacles eye formed into a round
eye or straight eye.
• Small hooks and eyes are used often at necklines.
HOOK & LOOP TAPE /VELCRO TAPE
• Hook-and-loop tapes are woven nylon hook and loop
tape fasteners that consist of one tape with minute
flexible hooks and the other with many small soft loops.
• When opposing tapes are pressed together, hooks
engage loops to form a strong closure that opens when
tapes are peeled apart.
need to be opened and closed quickly and easily.
• They are often used on jackets, sportswear, and
children’s clothes
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BUCKLES
• Buckles are devices in a variety of size, shape, design and material,
consisting of an open rim having a single or centre bar, with or without
a prong.
• They are used as functional fastener and as decorative details.
• They are often used on the free ends of belts and straps
FACINGS
• A facing is the fabric used to finish/hide a raw edge such as a neckline,
armhole, front and back openings and gives the garment a clean look.
• It is a duplicate layer of fabric stitched to the raw edge of a garment for
the purpose of clean finishing the seam.

13 14

LINING INTERLINING
• Interlinings are functional trimmings. They are applied between the
• Linings are sewn into the garment to hide in inner construction and outside layer of the garment and the facing.
give a neat finish.
• They provide shape, support, stabilization, reinforcement and improve
• They may be applied to coats, jackets, dresses, skirts and pants, in their performance for garments.
entirety or just partially.
• They are fused or sewn to specific areas on the inside of garment
components such as collars, facings, cuffs, waistbands.

15 16

THANKS

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