*Survey results from an

independent 3-week consumer study

including 75 participants.
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BEAUTY
April 2022
REPORTER
15 Tyler, the Creator makes
beauty products

16 Editors’ Favorites
18 Porsche Poon’s makeup is
out of this world

22 The most fantastical new

trends

28 A new day for Brazil’s

oldest pharmacy

30 Four tips to treat eczema •

Iceland’s natural beauty

31 Winnie Harlow knows

her sun care

32 Can upcycling save the

world? • A look inside the
latest Allure Beauty Box

34 A world-famous lipstick •
Why a visit to Taiwan should be
on your dream list

NEWS &
TRENDS
39 Beauty Remix. Wild at
Heart. Singer and (now) actor
Karol G leads a life as colorful
as her hair.

42 Identity. Why Is Malaysia

Afraid of Nur Sajat? For
transgender beauty
entrepreneur Nur Sajat, being
herself is an act of power.
By Sarah Carr

46 Modern Wellness.
Soak It Up. An ode to the
healing powers of H20.
By Brennan Kilbane

51 Makeup Magic. Italian

Lessons. A study in Venetian
opulence, courtesy of model
Faty Syll. 74
ABOUT A CURL
56 Social Creatures. These South Asian models
PETER ASH LEE

Global Tech Support. How are making waves (and

spirals) with their natural
to find a beauty community,
curls. Victor Glemaud dress.
wherever you are. Proenza Schouler dress.
By Taylore Glynn Swarovski earrings.
 39
OH, GEE
Reggaeton artist and—
as of recently—actor
FEATURES Karol G isn’t
afraid of bold moves.
62 In Focus and On Point. Tibi jacket. Jenny Bird
earring and necklaces.
Deepika Padukone, queen
Marla Aaron and Martine
of Bollywood, has her sights Ali necklaces. To create
set on another domain. a similar makeup look:
By Dianna Mazzone Norvina Pro Pigment
Palette Vol.2, Liquid
68 Faces of Kabul. When Glow in Penny, and Lip
Gloss in Metallic
photographer Fatimah Hossaini set Rose by Anastasia
about capturing the strength of Beverly Hills.
Afghan women, she had no way of
knowing it’d soon be put to the
ultimate test.

74 Curl Power. These models

are setting the record straight
(or rather, curly) on what South
Asian hair “should” look like.
By Jada Jackson

80 Magic Eyes. When

eyeliner is so much more than just
eyeliner. By Iman Sultan

84 London, Baby.
Bridgerton actor Charithra
Chandran takes us out on the
town. By Anita Bhagwandas

REGULARS
4 Letter From the Editor
8 Contributors ON THE COVER

Supriya Lele bodysuit and trousers.

10 Inspiration. Massimo Dutti earring. Misho ear cuff.
By Jessica Cruel Photographed by Rid Burman. Fashion
stylist: Priyanka Kapadia. Hair: Yianni
54 Ask the Beauty Expert. Tsapatori. Makeup: Daniel Bauer.
A state of affairs on K-beauty Manicure: Pooja K and Sunita P. Set
design: Sandesh Kambli. Production:
58 The Face Chart. Banke Khatri Productions. To create a similar
makeup look: 5 Couleurs Couture in 079
Meshida Lawal does bridal beauty.
Black Bow, Diorshow 24H Stylo in 091
60 Me, My Shelf & I. How Matte Black, Backstage Glow Face Palette
in 002 Glitz, and Rouge Dior Forever
an Indigenous performer packs Liquid in 100 Forever Nude by Dior.
her kit

88 Flashback. The inimitable In “Perfect Vision” in the March issue, we incorrectly said
hairstylist Nikki Nelms created all of Zoë Kravitz’s Catwoman hair
style of Grace Jones looks for The Batman. While Nelms worked on The Batman, she
did not create all of Kravitz’s hair looks. Allure regrets the error.

ALLURE IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT © 2022 CONDÉ NAST. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 32, NO. 3. April 2022
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OFFICE: Condé Nast, One World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. Roger Lynch, Chief Executive Officer; Pamela Drucker Mann, Global Chief Revenue Officer & President, U.S. Revenue; Jason Miles,
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SO BY ALLURE IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

APRIL 2022 ALLURE 3

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
MY PASSPORT HAS BEEN collecting
dust for the last couple of years.
Travel is something that has always
given me the chance to look around
and into the eyes of someone new, to
begin to explore what other people
experience as they move through
the world.
So I was thrilled this holiday
season to jet off to Accra, Ghana,
with a group of friends. As soon as
we arrived, I experienced something
unique. I was in the Upside Down
(or maybe the Right Side Up?),
where I was no longer the minority.
All around me there was brown
skin, ranging from tones of latte
to espresso. I was transported to a
world with a new level of acceptance
after only a 10-hour flight. It got me
From left: Prayer flags in Nepal; yours
truly on a visit to Ghana late last year;
sunset near Ganga Ghat, Varanasi, India.
4 ALLURE APRIL 2022
thinking about our Allure Global
Beauty issue—a theme we have
explored for a few years now.
How could we represent the full
kaleidoscope of a beauty culture (or
as much of a kaleidoscope as we can
cover in one issue)?
Starting on page 62, we dive into
the rich influence of South Asia.
Our cover star, Deepika Padukone,
was photographed in Mumbai, a
city where she is well-known for
her extensive Bollywood credits.
Padukone kicks off our tour with
guides that include Charithra
Chandran (an actor now appearing
in season two of Bridgerton), who
finds ways to celebrate her rich
Indian heritage as a first-generation
immigrant in London. She also
speaks on the colorism within the
community—and how she overcame
self-doubt by watching actors like
Mindy Kaling thrive. We also highlight
three models of South Asian
heritage who have embraced their
resplendent curls and challenged the
long-held South Asian beauty ideal of
thick, straight, swinging hair.
Then we do a deep dive on kohl,
the inky black pigment that is both
the origin of our current black eyeliner
obsession and a purported healing
substance in Ayurvedic medicine.
And before we leave South Asia,
we visit Afghanistan with a photo
portfolio by Fatimah Hossaini, an
Afghan Iranian photographer who is
using her lens to bring into focus the
lives of Afghan women. Now in exile,
Hossaini shares with us some of the
photos she took of women in Kabul
before the Taliban took control last
summer. They are colorful, moving,
and striking in their beauty—a
reminder of just how much is at stake
in that country right now.
For me, the power of global
beauty coverage is letting these
topics be surrounded and supported
by stories of the same tone
and cultural roots—just as I was
surrounded by my people in Africa.
When taken together, they give us
a fuller picture of the South Asian
experience and a small taste of the
region’s perspectives on beauty.
International travel may not yet
be in the offing for everyone,
but this issue will take you on an
expedition where all cultures are
CRUEL: COURTESY PHOTO. REMAINING IMAGES: GETTY IMAGES.
valued and a love of beauty is the
universal currency.
Jessica Cruel, Editor in Chief
@jcruel
 *Recommended for retinol users and not for beginners **See improved look of wrinkles © J&JCI 2022
GENTLE
ON SKIN*

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CONTRIBUTORS

City Guides
When a group of
editors in New York
City wants to dive deep
on global beauty, well,
they need some far-
flung assistance. These
are just five of the
many talented world
citizens who worked
with us on this issue. Banke Meshida Lawal Priyanka Kapadia
We asked all of them MAKEUP ARTIST, FACE CHART, STYLIST, IN FOCUS AND ON POINT,
PAGE 58 PAGE 62
the same question: “The terrain is very wide,” says Lawal of the When Kapadia needs to upgrade her nail
beauty destinations in her home base of game—and her mood—she heads over to
When you’re not Lagos, Nigeria. She loves to soak in the mud The White Door, not far from her home in the
baths of the Carib Health Group’s holistic spa Bandra district of Mumbai. “It feels super
working, what’s your off the shores of the posh Ikoyi neighborhood: luxurious, nestled on a busy street,” she says.
“It’s a healing practice for arthritis and “It’s so peaceful once you’re in there.” The
favorite hometown inflammation.” For all of Lawal’s nail whole space is bathed in white tones, with
beauty escape? needs—from stiletto manicures to natural-
and-neutral—she is loyal to the “homey
creamy leather armchairs at the nail stations.
Kapadia usually chooses a nude or earthy
environment” of The Nail Room. It’s where she gel polish, but “when I’m feeling a bit
got her first professional manicure 15 years adventurous or before a holiday, I get some
ago and she’s never strayed. fun nail art too,” she says.

TSUKI: COLIN LEAMAN. PORTRAITS: COURTESY OF SUBJECTS.

Tsuki Iman Sultan Rosaline Shahnavaz

HAIRSTYLIST, CURL POWER,
PAGE 74
It’s been several years since New York
City-based Tsuki has been able to travel
home to Japan, but he already knows which
beauty spot he’ll head to first when he
finally lands in Tokyo again: Yuen Bettei
Daita is a modern take on a traditional
Japanese hot springs (or onsen) inn and it’s
inside the limits of the bustling capital city.
It feels like a “nature weekend,” says Tsuki.
“But you’re only on a train for 15 minutes.”
You can make it a day trip or stay overnight.
Either way, you spend much of your time
soaking in an onsen and sipping freshly
brewed sencha.
WRITER, MAGIC EYES,
PAGE 80
Sultan was raised outside Philadelphia, but
moved to her parents’ hometown of Karachi,
Pakistan, at 22. When she wants a break from
the commotion of the city, she escapes to
Blush Studio, a salon with a menu of
massages and manicures. The minimalist
studio, founded by Hina Farid, reminds Sultan
of her favorite pared-back beauty destinations
in New York City. For a glam session, Sultan
recommends makeup artist Bina Khan’s
pop-up inside the luxury boutique, Ensemble
Pakistan: “Khan has over 25 years experience
and a mission to celebrate the diverse hues
of South Asian skin tones.”
PHOTOGRAPHER; LONDON, BABY,
PAGE 84
Her parents are Persian, she grew up in
South London, but her favorite beauty
getaway? It’s Russian. The smell of
eucalyptus and birch permeates every
corner of Banya No. 1, a Russian
bathhouse that Shahnavaz calls “a little
haven in London.” (It has locations in
two neighborhoods: Hoxton and Chiswick.)
Whenever she can, Shahnavaz spends
the day enjoying its plunge pools,
body scrubs, massages, and the in-house
restaurant, which offers traditional
delicacies and drinks like vodka
with gherkin.

8 ALLURE APRIL 2022

 All Abroad!
I N S P I R AT I O N

AKWAABA IS A TWI WORD that

translates to “welcome,” and I heard it CHARLOTTE MENSAH
often on my recent trip to Ghana. For me, a AFRO COMB
When traveling, I opt for
Black American visiting Africa for the first
twists that can be worn in an
time, it was a joyful homegoing and history updo or released for a twist
lesson. These were my travel essentials. out. This pick both detangles
BY JESSICA CRUEL and volumizes, depending
on the day.

SUNDAY II SUNDAY
ELISA JOHNSON
DAILY SCALP SERUM CHELSEA PARIS
SUNGLASSES
SLIDES
I love an all-white
outfit. These slides
work just as well with
an ivory bathing suit
as a linen short set
worn for a night out
dancing to
Afrobeats.

JUAN DE DIOS TOP AND BOTTOM

BAG-ALL
POUCH

BIKINI: COURTESY OF BRAND. BEACH: GETTY IMAGES. REMAINING IMAGES: JOSEPHINE SCHIELE.
ELTAMD UV
STICK SPF 50+
Sunscreen that
glides on all the
hard-to-reach spots.
CEREMONIA
ACEITE DE MOSKA
Daily oil application
keeps my coils
shiny and frizz-free.

“THE BEACH IN
GHANA WAS BUSY
WITH FISHING &
I FEASTED ON
TILAPIA STRAIGHT
BOLGA FAN
FROM THE OCEAN.”
In Accra, I picked up this
woven grass fan. I was
channeling my inner
Baptist church mother in
the African sun. Back in
NYC, it’s wall decor.

10 ALLURE APRIL 2022

PRECISION BEAUT Y TOOLS,
Q U A L I T Y YO U C A N T R U ST.

@t weezerman | t weezerman.com
 JESSICA CRUEL
EDITOR IN CHIEF

EXECUTIVE BEAUTY DIRECTOR JENNY BAILLY CREATIVE DIRECTOR NATHALIE KIRSHEH DIRECTOR OF EDITORIAL OPERATIONS AMANDA MEIGHER
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR OF EDITORIAL INITIATIVESSOYINI DRISKELL

DEPUTY BEAUTY DIRECTOR ELIZABETH SIEGEL PRODUCTION/COPY/RESEARCH CREATIVE

SENIOR FASHION EDITORTCHESMENI LEONARD DEPUTY MANAGING EDITOR NICOLE STUART VISUALS DIRECTOR KATHRYNE HALL
SENIOR BEAUTY EDITOR DIANNA MAZZONE
PRODUCTION MANAGER BRENT BURKET ART DIRECTOR ALEXANDRA FOLINO
SENIOR MANAGER OF SPECIAL PROJECTS
SENIOR COPY MANAGER LESLIE LIPTON INGRID FRAHM
DIGITAL ART DIRECTOR
MONICA PERRY COPY MANAGER DAWN REBECKY SENIOR VISUALS EDITORLAUREN BROWN
BEAUTY EDITOR PAIGE STABLES
RESEARCH DIRECTOR AMBER ANGELLE SENIOR DESIGNER BELLA GERACI
FASHION ASSISTANT LEILA ALI
SENIOR BUSINESS DIRECTOR EILISH MORLEY ASSISTANT VISUALS EDITOR CASSIE BASFORD
BEAUTY ASSISTANT TALIA GUTIERREZ
SENIOR DIRECTOR, TALENT CASTING HELENA SURIC
EDITORIAL ASSISTANT JENNET JUSU
SENIOR ENTERTAINMENT EDITOR
CONTRIBUTING EDITORS
EUGENE SHEVERTALOV
JESSICA CHIA, BRENNAN KILBANE, BOOKINGS MANAGER MORGAN SENESI
AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT
EMILY NEWHOUSE, DANIELLE PERGAMENT,
AND SOCIAL MARCI ROBIN, LIANA SCHAFFNER
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DAVID DeNICOLO
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 BEAUTY
REPORTER
Going Places
Tyler, the Creator, on Ferraris,
cliff jumping, and his new
brand, Golf Le Fleur.
I live in the moment 98 percent of
the time. The way I dress, a lot of
people say, “Oh, you must have a
special occasion.” I see every day of
my life as a special occasion. We
gotta like looking beautiful. Having a
manicure is it. I like smelling good, so
I’m gonna smell good. When I wear
[my French Waltz (below right)] in
five years, I’ll think of being in the
Dominican Republic cliff jumping. I’ll
think of driving a [Ferrari] Enzo. I’ll
think of being in Paris at [my late
friend] Virgil [Abloh]’s show. I’ll think

future nostalgia.
TO PAIGE STABLES
PROP STYLIST: NICOLE LOUIE

Clockwise: Golf Le Fleur hair

pick, Georgia Peach nail polish,
French Waltz, and London
Square luggage, though Tyler,
the Creator packs light: “I don’t
need to bring a lot. Existing is PHOTOGRAPHED BY JOE LINGEMAN
the focal point.”
BEAUTY REPORTER

Editors’ Favorites
With these globally inspired
finds, you can travel the world
without leaving your
bathroom.

1. LilaNur Parfums
Incarnation. The
closest you can get to
teleporting from the
jasmine fields of India
directly to the rose
gardens of France is
spritzing on this
perfume that combines
the scents of both—
then unfolds into
smoky patchouli.

2. Loewe Medium
Ivy Candle in Light
Pink. Come for the
candy-colored vessel
(the curved design was
inspired by an ancient
Greek mug), stay for the
clean, herbaceous
aroma of fresh-cut ivy.

3. Evolvetogether
Havana Hydrating
Hand Cream. This
quick-to-absorb cream
(we didn’t leave so
much as a fingerprint
on our phone screen) is
so hydrating, you won’t
feel the need to reapply
it—unless you’re
raving a whiff of its
transportive, woody,
cardamom scent.

4. Joaquina
Botánica
Calendula +
Peptides
Hydrating
Essence. To honor
her Colombian roots,
Giovanna Campagna
infuses her products
with botanicals native
to South America, like
the sacha inchi peptides
in this refreshing rose
water mist.

16 ALLURE APRIL 2022

BEAUTY REPORTER

TA L E N T S H OW

Porsche Poon
Eyes, lips, and cheeks
are but loose guidelines
for this London-based
makeup artist’s surrealist
creations.
AS TOLD TO DEVON ABELMAN

I’M A MIDDLE CHILD, so I’m good

at knowing what people need.
Makeup, for a lot of people, isn’t a
mask anymore. It’s expression. The
moment I thought I could explore
makeup to show off art was when

I started assisting [makeup artist]
Isamaya Ffrench. Most fashion jobs
are clean skin, probably a colored
lip, or some detail on the eye.
[Editor’s note: Ffrench’s tongue-in-
cheek approach to beauty makes
“pretty” look ironic and occasionally
bizarre.] I wanted to explore [like
Isamaya does], so I started doing my
own projects.
I look to [my] Asian culture,
manga comics, and illustration books
for inspiration. I’ve started doing
3D lines using 3D pens [and using
sewing supplies like pins, as well
as pom-poms and hair extensions]
and playing with clouds. They are
kind of artsy, but at the same time
still beauty. I researched [ancient
Chinese] illustrations of clouds [as
inspiration] for a picture of three girls
with their faces together (above). The
lines are linked up, which I thought
would be such a cool group shot.
People do winged liner to
elongate the eyes, so when I play
with patterns, I follow that way of
POON: COURTESY OF TALENT. REMAINING IMAGES: SIMON THISELTON AND MICHIYO YANAGIHARA.
From top: Poon; their take on a group
shot; red and bleached brows
thinking. When I get a confirmation
of casting [for a job], I print out
[pictures of] the models and draw on
their faces so I immediately see what
it can look like.
I’m at a stage where I want to be
special. I want to be seen. When I
put out work, people are like, “That’s
too much,” or some people will say,
“I love it!” My style is probably not
universal, so I always try to keep
myself grounded. Sometimes I
feel like it’s good to live in my little
bubble—and I’m slowly blooming in
my own little world.

18 ALLURE APRIL 2022

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Healthy living is so much easier
when you adopt a lifestyle that
nurtures your body and brings
you joy. For inspiration, look to
the Mediterranean lifestyle,
rooted in the centuries-old
tradition of eating fresh, locally
sourced food, walking to local
markets and cafés, and spending
plenty of time in the sunshine
with family and friends.
Combining this philosophy for
well-being with his scientific
expertise, Dr. Antonio Bruno
Italy’s uniquely rich, fertile soil and
high agricultural standards make the
rare, natural ingredients of Bruno
MD products possible. For example,
Bruno MD’s collagen is sourced from
trusted European suppliers, while
its Red Orange Complex — proven
in double-blind clinical studies to
improve overall skin elasticity and
decrease wrinkle depth — is sourced
from Italian blood oranges near
Mount Etna volcano in Sicily. Together
with algae-derived astaxanthin, a
powerful antioxidant that combats
“Along with improving the
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Benvenuta, healthy, glowing skin!
BEAUTY REPORTER
1 3
ALL How do you turn a ribbon into
TIED more than a ribbon? Hairstylist
Cyndia Harvey suggests you
UP
double up on them, like she did
at Giambattista Valli’s spring 2022
show (1), and contrast their
simplicity with richly textured hair.
She used the ribbons to gather
up cornrows, Afros, and slick
styles. It’s also a perfect
complement to oversized ruffles
(2) on the runway.
22 ALLURE APRIL 2022
ULTRA- This season, hundreds of brushes
VIOLET were dipped into hundreds of
shades of periwinkle—Pantone’s
MIGHT
color of the year. Those brushes
made their way to lashes, lids,
even bobs. The dye jobs at
Valentino (3) had a particularly
powerful Alice in Wonderland
vibe. But if you want to keep the
magic alive, ”use sulfate-free
shampoo,” says hairstylist Brian
O’Connor. Pastels fade easily.
Clockwise from left:
Giambattista Valli, spring
2022; Gucci Rouge à Lèvres
Mat Matte Lipstick in Sydney
Lavender; Christian Siriano,
spring 2022; Nyx Professional
Makeup Epic Wear Liner
Sticks in Periwinkle Pop;
Jennifer Behr headband;
Valentino, spring 2022; and
Paul & Joe, spring 2022.
GIAMBATTISTA VALLI: FRANCOIS DURAND. PAUL & JOE: TRISTAN FEWINGS/BFC. ALL: GETTY IMAGES. SIRIANO: IMAXTREE. REMAINING IMAGES: STUART TYSON AND JOSEPHINE SCHIELE.
ONE What is the opposite of a smoky
AND eye? An eye ringed with a
cloud, or a rainbow, or a flower
DONE
chain! And we’re not using the
fashion singular here—we mean
one eye. Inspired by face paint
for kids, makeup artist Georgina
Graham drew playful shapes
around a single eye on the
models at Paul & Joe (4). Her
technique: “Release your inner
child and have fun!”
NEW

e in ne e
5 BENEFITS IN EACH BOTTLE TO MAKE
SALON-QUALITY STYLE EFFORTLESS
BEAUTY REPORTER
The Rio Deal
LOCATED NEAR A central port in
downtown Rio de Janeiro, where
ships dock from Europe, is a
pharmacy called Granado. It first
opened in 1870, and is a Brazilian
institution. Now, its colorfully
packaged soaps and lotions—some
of which have been around for a
hundred years—are finally available
online in the U.S. That means
Americans can buy best sellers
like Castanha Do Brasil liquid soap,
infused with hydrating Brazil nuts
and poured into a cheery yellow and
green bottle.
Nature is at the core of Granado’s
formulas—and trends are irrelevant.
Local ingredients such as murumuru
butter, cupuaçu butter, and the oil of
Brazil nuts are found throughout the
brand’s line of products, including
sugar scrubs, one beloved Antiseptic
Talc, and soaps (Brazilians treasure
their bar soaps and the sunny Bossa
scent is a favorite).
Each product comes with a story
for the senses. “If you ever come
to Rio, you’ll see the mountains
28 ALLURE APRIL 2022
are close to the ocean, so for the
fragrance of [our Carioca line], we
wanted something humid, with
a bit of sea salt. We have explored
Brazilian ingredients in perfumery,
[even using] cashews,” says Sissi
Freeman, Granado’s director of
marketing, whose family acquired
the business in 1994. At the time
(and even up until the early aughts),
a premium pharmacy like this was
one of the main places to purchase
and sell upscale personal care in Rio.
“When our team starts creating [new]
packaging or [formulas], we go
back to the archives,” says Freeman.
If you are lucky enough to visit
Granado, you will find much of the
original furniture is still in place in
the pharmacy. Historic oak accents
mix with the aroma of the fragrant
soaps—a sight (and smell) so
arresting, Granado is the subject of
Step inside Brazil’s
longest-standing
apothecary, a
shopping destination
that has captured
hearts and softened
skin for generations.
BY PAIGE STABLES
STORE INTERIOR: COURTESY OF BRAND. SMEAR: GETTY IMAGES. PHARMACY: GRANADO COLLECTION. LANDSCAPE: GETTY IMAGES.
From left: Granado’s
flagship store in Rio;
the pharmacy, circa
1920; and a bird’s-eye
view of Rio.
a glossy Assouline book. “We like
[combining] traditional elements with
contemporary ones—like a modern,
iron staircase—so it doesn’t feel like a
museum,” adds Freeman.
In every direction, there are
elements of design that mirror the
brand’s history, such as the vibrant
Portuguese-tiled floors, which are
also in the 80 Granado shops around
the globe (these are mostly scattered
throughout Brazil, as well as in
Portugal and Paris). Here, palm trees
bring Brazil’s great outdoors inside.
As Granado continues
growing into new categories—
and countries—one thing remains:
Brazil will always be the central
inspiration. As Freeman says, “It’s a
traditional brand.”
BEAUTY REPORTER
Foreign
Exchange BY DEVON ABELMAN
IF YOU SCROLL through Australian
artist Tara Chandra’s content, you’ll
see her smiling big in the funkiest
of sunglasses, taking selfies in
grassy fields…and boldly sharing
the journey of her most debilitating
eczema flare-ups. “Never be
ashamed of your [skin] doing its
natural thing,” Chandra says. The
images of her bright red neck have
created a judgment-free forum to
share advice and support among
her followers around the world.
Here, Chandra’s top tips, which
she’s learned through experience—
and her very international
comments sections.
CLEAN ACT
Showering may be painful, especially
during active flare-ups, but for Chandra,
washing her skin and hair daily can prevent
product, dirt, and oil buildup. “I moisturize
immediately after showering to rehydrate
my skin,” she says. Consider doing some
housekeeping too: Because dust mites are
a common trigger, Chandra has found that
vacuuming and changing her towels every
day help avoid flare-ups. She also covers her
mattress and pillows with
dust-mite protectors.
TESTING, TESTING
“The simplest way to treat eczema is
to avoid triggers,” says Dr. Marie Jhin, a
dermatologist in San Carlos, California.
An allergy test helped Chandra pinpoint
what can trigger her eczema. She is
particularly sensitive to dust mites, house
molds, and fermented foods, including
alcohol. To help build up her tolerance,
her allergist prescribed sublingual
immunotherapy, giving Chandra small
doses of what she’s allergic to.
KEEP THINGS IN ORDER
Much like the rest of skin care, eczema
treatments are more efficient when they
are applied from the lightest [water-based]
texture to the heaviest [oil-dominant].
“I layer hydrators first, like aloe vera gel
or hyaluronic acid [serum], followed by
fragrance-free lotion,” Chandra explains.
(She uses Epaderm Cream daily.) “Then I
seal with an ointment, such as Aquaphor or
Vaseline.” [Always consult your doctor about
the best eczema treatment for your skin.]
COLD CALLING
If you ask Íris Laxdal, the founder of
Angan, where she sources the Icelandic
sea salt in her brand’s signature bath
soak, she’ll happily tell you. (Icelanders
are friendly like that.) But revealing the
secret location of the geothermal pool
her family has been soaking in for
generations is off the table.
The bathing culture in Iceland is
serious. Locals have been visiting their
country’s mineral-rich waters—said to
increase circulation and soften skin—
since at least the 12th century. “As a kid,
you’re not going to the playground,
you’re going to the [geothermal] pool,”
says Laxdal, who was raised in a suburb
of the country’s largest city, Reykjavík.
“You’re part of nature.”
This connection underscores many
aspects of Icelandic beauty practices,
On her
Instagram and
CHANDRA: COURTESY OF SUBJECT. LANDSCAPE: GETTY IMAGES. BL+ PRODUCTS: JOSEPHINE SCHIELE. REMAINING IMAGES: COURTESY OF BRAND.
TikTok feeds,
Chandra
shares her
style triumphs
and skin
challenges.
SELF - REFLECT
Steroid creams are one of the most common
options for treating eczema, but they are
not always suitable long-term. For Chandra,
topical steroids never fully healed her eczema.
She recalls, “[After] being gaslit, for lack of a
better term, by multiple dermatologists who
reduced my experiences to, ‘You just need
to use a steroid cream,’ I decided to post on
Instagram to see if anyone had alternatives for
me.” In the process, Chandra’s experience has
helped others find alternatives and understand
the signs of a topical steroid withdrawal.
such as whipping up salves using native
plants. Sóley Elíasdóttir was inspired by her
great-great-grandmother, an herbalist, to
start Sóley Iceland. She relies on
handpicked Icelandic herbs like willow, an
alternative source of salicylic acid, for her
spring water–based hair care.
Skin barrier-strengthening silica, like
the kind found in Iceland’s Blue Lagoon,
inspired BL+, a line of serums developed by
Blue Lagoon researchers.
But truly being one with nature means
respecting its resources. “We work in
partnership with the Icelandic Forest
Association,” says Elíasdóttir. “They tell us
that by picking herbs, we are helping to
balance our island’s carbon footprint.” And
that Icelandic sea salt we mentioned is
produced with geothermal energy. Now,
about that secret pool… —DIANNA MAZZONE
 RAY OF
LIGHT
“We thought we were going
to have flying cars in the
future. The least we can
have is sunscreen that looks
good on skin,” says model
Winnie Harlow, who just
launched Cay Skin, her own
line of sunscreens, including
mineral and chemical
formulas. We talked with
Harlow about the
Caribbean, beach life, and
her childhood hair
memories. BY JENNET JUSU

ON MYTH BUSTING: “I wanted to

squash that whole narrative that
Black people don’t need sunscreen.
It’s not true at all. Like, we do. No
one’s melanin is enough to protect
them from the sun’s rays. Cay Skin is
for everyone under the sun.”
ON HERITAGE: “I love islands. I love
to be in the heat. I love beaches. I’m
Caribbean through and through.
[Harlow was born and raised in
Canada, but has Jamaican ancestry
on both sides of her family.] It’s the
music I listen to, the food I eat, it’s a From left: Cay Skin Isle Body Oil SPF 30,
part of my life. Cay Skin was named Lancôme Teint Idole Foundation, Curls
Blueberry Bliss Hair Mask, and
after the cays—or keys—which
Pat McGrath Labs Skin Fetish Sublime
are little pockets of islands [in the Perfection Concealer.
Caribbean]. I wanted to package the
Caribbean in a bottle. I wanted to
make sure the ingredients spoke to
PORTRAIT: BRANDON ALMENGO. PRODUCTS: COURTESY OF BRANDS.

that as well: There’s nectar from the

fruits in the Caribbean to hydrate.”
ON TOUGH LOVE: “I grew up in
Toronto, but my dad lived in
Jamaica, so I would go see him every
summer. I remember my dad
rubbing sunscreen into my skin with
his rough hands. He’s a mechanic. I
hated the experience. Not just
because of his rough hands, but
because I didn’t want to go outside
with that blue tint all over my body
from the sunscreen not being the
right tone for my skin. When I got
older and was doing a photo shoot,
they didn’t want me to reapply
sunscreen because of that same
blue tint. By the second day [of the
had to come [because of] the pain
and inflammation. I didn’t realize
how passionate I was about [sun
care] until I had that experience, so I
decided to create Cay Skin.”
ON COMMITMENT: “I’ve definitely
gone to the beach with a full
beat. People are like, ‘You’re at the
beach with makeup on? That’s so
unrealistic.’ But I like makeup. It might
get messed up while I’m there, but it’s
cool. I wanna get cute, you know?”
ON HAIR HAPPINESS: “My first
weave I ever got was at my auntie’s
salon in Jamaica. I was in middle
school. It was bomb. It had a middle
part and a side-bang situation.”
ON HOLY GRAILS: “For foundation,
I use Lancôme Teint Idole, and Pat
McGrath makes the best concealer.
I’m obsessed. She gets everything
right! And I just started using
Curls Blueberry Bliss. I’ve watched
YouTube videos about it for years
and I always see people open [it],
and they’re like, ‘It just smells so
good.’ But it really does!”

APRIL 2022 ALLURE 31

BEAUTY REPORTER

Source
Material
With global supply
channels kinked and the
climate in crisis, food
waste has never been a
more precious resource.
BY TAYLORE GLYNN

TURNING OCEAN PLASTIC into

athleisure, or leather-bound books into
a luxe armchair: This transformative
process of repurposing by-products or
waste is called upcycling. Now there’s
a growing (and long-overdue) push to
use agricultural by-products and food
waste in beauty products in order to
optimize the cosmetics and food
industries’ shared supply chains.
Each year, as much as 20 percent
of the world’s banana production may
be discarded due to damage or
imperfection, according to one
estimate. (That’s about 24 million tons
of bananas that go straight to the
garbage!) Kadalys, a Martinique-based Regenerative Gel Cleanser. (And any
brand, repurposes some of these biomaterials left over are returned to
banana peels and pulp to produce the soil as compost.)
omega-packed extracts used in its It’s taking the idea of trash as
skin care. “Bananas have healing and treasure to the nth degree:
antimicrobial properties,” says “[Upcycling] is ideal for consumers
cosmetic chemist Ginger King. “There and the planet because we’re using
are even [brands making] by-products that may have just
preservatives from banana leaves.” ended up in the landfill,” says
Olive groves are equally useful Pamela Marcos, senior director
ground. Last year, minimalist skin-care of product development and
brand Circumference sourced unused regulatory at Farmacy. The brand’s
olive leaves from buzzy, California- new 10% Niacinamide Night Mask
based olive oil brand Brightland. is infused with antioxidant-rich oil,
These leaves produce an antioxidant cold-pressed from discarded
extract used in the brand’s Daily blueberry seeds, an ingredient King
says helps support collagen
synthesis. (Farmacy is also working
to fight food insecurity, with a

A L LU R E B E AU T Y B OX A L E RT !

OIL WELL
So you’re saying facial oils don’t have to feel oily or be too much for my hormonal skin? Osea Essential Hydrating Oil
has made me rethink the entire category. One pump helps calm my sensitive skin with a nongreasy blend of eight oils
(including hydrating jojoba seed and soothing geranium). I press the fast-absorbing formula into my skin while giving
my face and neck a gentle massage, resulting in hydrated and nonirritated skin. Then I smear any extra oil onto my lips
to seal the deal. —TALIA GUTIERREZ
The April Allure Beauty Box includes Osea Essential Hydrating Oil along with six other products ($23 per month). Go to allure.com/
beautyreporter to subscribe to the Allure Beauty Box and get this facial oil (while supplies last) and more delivered to your door.

32 ALLURE APRIL 2022

Hello
sustainable.
Twenty years of the Original DivaCup®.

Recycle through the

DivaRecycles Program
visit divacup.com to learn more
BEAUTY REPORTER

BY POPULAR CHOICE
Think about how many different lipsticks are tucked into makeup bags, rolling around the bottom
of purses, and waiting to be rediscovered in random kitchen drawers (just us?) around the world.
Yet, somehow, the same shade of red—not just any red, but a very specific brick red—is currently a
favorite in 19 countries. Last year, people on the planet Earth bought 2.4 million bullets of MAC
Chili, an intense red with warm orange undertones. (That’s nearly five lipsticks sold every minute.)
According to MAC, it’s a top-seller in Hong Kong, Korea, Japan, China, Vietnam...still with us? The
U.S., Canada, Myanmar, Cambodia, Laos, Taiwan (almost there!), Malaysia, the Philippines,
Singapore, Ivory Coast, Nigeria, Ethiopia, Kenya, and Ghana. “It’s brought the ‘brick-color boom’ to
Korean beauty,” says Jae-Hyun Park from KakaoTalk Gift of Kakao Corp, a leading retailer in Korea.
The reason a brick red, of all things, is so globally popular? “The mix of colors makes it much less
intimidating than a traditional blue-red lipstick,” says makeup artist Allan Avendaño. “Its brown-
orange [undertones] give it the ability to be worn day or night.” —TALIA GUTIERREZ

Come along on a quick jaunt after cleansing, toning, and

to Asia’s rising beauty capital,
Taiwan. BY JESSICA CHIA
WHAT DO MEDICAL devices,
semiconductors, and sheet masks
have in common? All of them are
regularly manufactured in Taiwan.
After decades of churning out
precise machines for tech and
medical applications, Taiwan
manufacturers have started to create
advanced skin- and hair-care
formulas too. “The manufacturing
standards are very high [in terms of]
automation used to keep things
sanitary, make things consistent, and
package things in the best way,” says
Jude Chao, a Taiwanese American
founder whose brand, Love, Jude, is
manufactured in Taipei.
We’re just starting to see more
moisturizing, says Annie Wang, the
Art by Taiwanese
founder of Glowie Co, a beauty
e-tailer that offers T-beauty
photographer
Zhang Ahuei.
products stateside. (We would be Below, from left:
remiss not to mention two things Catiss Ginger Cat
here: 1) Single-use products, like Lip Balm, Eadem
Cloud Cushion Airy
sheet masks, are not the most
Brightening
environmentally friendly skin-care Moisturizer, and
options; and 2) Taiwan has taken SH-RD Protein
measures to eliminate other single- Cream.
use products, such as banning
plastic straws.)
Taiwanese women tend to go to
salons multiple times a week to get
shampoos, scalp massages, and
conditioning treatments, says
Artemis Tsai, founder of Taipei-
based hair-care brand SH-RD.
Instead of the usual filtered water
you’ll find in hair care, Tsai’s Protein
Cream Gold Deluxe Edition contains

PORTRAIT: ZHANG AHUEI. PRODUCTS: COURTESY OF BRANDS.

T-beauty brands coming to the U.S.,
but beauty has been a deeply
ingrained part of the culture in
Taiwan for decades. “Growing up, my
Taiwanese mother would often make
a ‘beauty soup’ dessert, which
featured snow mushroom,” says
Alice Lin Glover, cofounder of
Eadem. “It wasn’t until I was older
and more research emerged that I
understood what my mom and
ancestors knew: This powerhouse
superfood is beneficial for skin.” The
mushroom stars in Lin Glover’s
newest cream, the Eadem Cloud
Cushion Airy Brightening Moisturizer.
Rather than being guest stars,
sheet masks are used daily as part
of Taiwanese skin-care routines,
mineral-rich Taiwanese deep-sea
water, along with micronized-gold,
UV filters, and vitamins B and E, to
make hair just-left-the-salon shiny,
even if (shh!) you haven’t gone.
And T-beauty wouldn’t be
T- beauty if it weren’t fun and a little
irreverent. Catiss (a portmanteau
of “cat” and “kiss”) has a selection
of better-for-you lip balms (no
parabens, phthalates, or
petrochemicals) that come in the
shape of spotted and striped
3D cat paws. Meow.

34 ALLURE APRIL 2022

YOU DESERVE TO FEEL GOOD.

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Wild at Heart

BEAUTY REMIX
How a bold tattoo and a healthy dose of
self-love set Latin music star Karol G on an
exciting new path. BY ECLEEN LUZMILA CARABALLO

KAROL G IS FEELING ANYTHING

but blue these days. The reggaeton
artist, originally from Medellín,
Colombia, recently exchanged the
Latin music industry hub of Miami
for Los Angeles to nurture a nascent
acting career (first gig: a role in
Netflix’s upcoming Griselda,
starring Sofía Vergara). Today, Karol
taps in to chat from her family
home in Colombia, wearing her
signature striking blue hair and an
oversize pastel pink hoodie.
She’s been reading the 1992
feminist classic Women Who Run
With the Wolves, by Clarissa Pinkola
Estés. “Women are wild by birth,”
Karol says, based on the text at
hand and her personal experience.
“The woman who is wild and doesn’t
care makes other people horribly
uncomfortable because we were
taught that it couldn’t be like that.

Courréges dress. Agmes earrings. To

create a similar makeup look: ColorStay
Eyeliner in Sapphire, ColorStay Ultimate
Suede Lipstick in Private Viewing, and
PhotoReady Instant Cheek Maker in
Make Me Bronze by Revlon. These pages:
Fashion stylist, Miso Dam. Hair: Rena
Calhoun. Makeup: David Velasquez.
Manicure: KJ.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY PHYLICIA J. L. MUNN

APRIL 2022 ALLURE 39

BEAUTY REMIX
So that’s why people criticize…
because a woman who is berraca [a
badass] makes the insecure
uncomfortable.”
Though she has been running
with the music wolves for 15 years,
Karol is still working to achieve her
desired level of success. There’s no
question that she’s off to a great
start. With more than 48 million
followers on Instagram, three top-
selling albums, as well as a career
peak with the global hit “Tusa” with
Nicki Minaj, it’s safe to say Karol is
the genre’s leading lady of this
generation. Soon, she’s going to
perform at her first Coachella.
Even with all of those positive
achievements under her belt, Karol,
“WHEN SOMEONE
MEETS YOU AND SAYS
YOU’RE PRETTIER IN
PERSON? NOW, THAT’S
THE REAL THING.”
born Carolina Giraldo Navarro, had
an uncomfortable 2020-21. The
media’s focus on her fluctuating
body image, changes within her
inner circle, and a breakup (with
fellow Latin music star Anuel AA),
followed by a big move, led to an
internal shift. The breakup was
perhaps the most challenging
experience because of her
ex-fiancé’s comparable fame and
how their relationship blossomed on
tracks like “Secreto,” with steamy
lyrics such as, “Celibacy is
impossible...You are mine, I do not
share.” Although big changes in life
are not always the most pleasant to
endure, they often result in
something beautiful. “Last year…I’m
telling you from the heart…it was a
year that I don’t know how we made
it, but we made it,” Karol says. “And
best of all was that while I was
working, people didn’t see it.”
The 31-year-old singer relishes
the growth that came in the last few
months. When she got the
distinctive thorn-hugged heart
tatted on her left arm, it was a
marker in time, a synthesis of what is
and what could be. “People don’t
know that this tattoo is the opener of
my [next] album,” Karol says. “I
mean, literally, a lot of things start
from here. The tattoo represents
a moment in my life where I
questioned myself a lot. I
strengthened and weakened myself
Tibi jacket. Jenny Bird
earring. Jenny Bird, Maria
Aaron, and Martine Ali
necklaces. To create a
similar makeup look: Blush
in Apricot and Crushed
Liquid Lip in Peach & Quiet
by Bobbi Brown.
 Rta dress and
a lot. It was a very important jacket. To create a
similar makeup look:
moment for me personally, not for
Mineralist Rosewood
my career. For Carolina.” Eyeshadow Palette,
On KG0516, an album released in Endless Glow
March 2021, Karol further unleashed Highlighter in Whimsy,
a type of performer familiar to the and Statement
Luxe-Shine Lipstick
genre since the ’90s, when
in Frenchie by
Panamanian pioneer La Atrevida and BareMinerals.
Puerto Rican star Ivy Queen made
their marks. There was a dearth of
women in the early aughts until the
current generation, including Karol,
Natti Natasha, and Becky G, came
onto the scene. Still, Karol feels
there’s more work to be done for
reggaeton to reach its full potential,
both behind the scenes and in how
women artists are judged (often
based on physical attributes more
than anything else).
“Bichota” is Karol’s personal
anthem of self-confidence and was
the name of her sold-out tour. The
title, a slang term meaning “big
shot,” is controversial due to its use
in the drug scene. But in this case,
the word refers to a big shot who’s in
tune with a more daring, empowered
side of herself.
Her next music project will
explore a more personal, softer side
of Karol that cohabitates with the
strong one. Working on it has
required her to unlock new levels of
vulnerability, both with her team and
herself, and to reflect on how she
cares for herself and her body.
According to Statista, in 2020,
breast augmentation was the
second most performed plastic Coachella quickly approaching, she wasn’t around fans, journalists,
surgery procedure in Colombia, there are a slew of serious meetings or the like. “I didn’t even think it was
preceded only by liposuction. Karol taking place to decide everything going to last more than a month,”
has had both—the former at 18, from creative ideation to—not the she says. Now, the tops of blue wigs
and the latter just a few years ago, least of which—whether or not Karol can be seen in waves from the stage
on her back. Although she openly will keep the bright blue hair and, if at her shows.
talks about surgery, she would so, for how long. “When people It’s during time spent connecting
take back the first procedure if she think of Karol G, [they] think of the directly with fans that Karol feels
could and now opts for less invasive blue hair and the heart tattoo,” she most seen. Late last year, before
alternatives (including lots of early- says. “I just went to Latin America greeting the crowd at her Atanasio
morning cardio) to sculpt her body. and I’m going to do my tour in Girardot Stadium show in Medellín,
And she’s a skin-care devotee. Europe, so I feel like people want to she quietly visited with incarcerated
The actor in training shows me a buy their blue wig. So how do you women in the city. “To me, I feel
skin-care travel pack that consists take away the opportunity? People like that’s the perfect concept of
of essentials like face masks and buy a ticket for a tour like that and I beauty,” she says. “When people
eye creams (all in all, at least 20 get there with a different color hair? know you and they see you as
items), which probably exceeds my I don’t know.…You see that it’s beautiful because of your essence,
entire collection. complicated?” because of what you had with
But the glow goes beyond skin Reminiscent of artist-defining them, how you express yourself,
deep. “My environment is the only hairstyles, such as Ariana Grande’s how you handled yourself, more
thing that keeps me sane inside now,” high ponytail, in this case the bright than the physical. I mean, when you
Karol says. “I’ve even had friendships blue brand is the product of make videos, take pictures, you are
that I’ve had to cut off because they pandemic-quarantine boredom. super-produced, super-made up,
don’t do me any good mentally.” Karol always had an affinity for the everything. But when someone
Being in a good mental state is look, otherwise best exhibited by meets you and says, ‘No, you’re
key because with the Netflix show, Bulma from Dragon Ball Z. Ironically, prettier in person?’ Now, that’s the
new music in the works, and the color felt safe to test because real thing.”

APRIL 2022 ALLURE 41

IDENTITY

Why Is Malaysia
Afraid of
The transgender beauty
entrepreneur refused to let
an intolerant government
take away her power—and
now she’s helping others
reclaim theirs.
BY SARAH CARR

IT’S LATE JANUARY IN SYDNEY.

Even in the dark, Nur Sajat is
resplendent, a sliver of Australian
moonlight illuminating her skin as
we connect over Zoom. She’s just
made the three-hour drive back from
Canberra, one of many stops on her
way to rebuilding the beauty
business she had to shutter in her
home country more than a year ago.
Her matte-plum lips are precisely
lined, fawny lashes frame her dark
eyes, and her skin is glowing against
the same white sundress she twirled
in on Instagram earlier that day to
the delight of her more than 400K
followers. Many of these followers
live in Malaysia, where Sajat was
born, raised, and, in 2021, forced to
flee to escape the threat of up to

PORTRAITS: COURTESY OF SUBJECT. REMAINING IMAGES: GETTY IMAGES.

three years in prison for dressing as
a woman.
In Malaysia, Nur Sajat
Kamaruzzaman isn’t just Instagram
famous. She’s a self-made beauty
industry entrepreneur who started
selling cosmetics on social media in
2014 (“I was just testing the waters,”
she says of the early days). By 2015,
Sajat had built a successful
cosmetics company called Nur Sajat
Beautician. Within a few years, she
had also recorded and released a
debut single, “Makhluk Penggoda”
(in English, “Tempting Creatures”),
and shared an inside view of her life
in a web-based reality TV show
called Nur Sajat Rated Xtra. Across
30 episodes, Sajat takes business
meetings in her office, feeds her kids

42 ALLURE APRIL 2022


Nur Sajat?
in a breakfast nook wallpapered in a
Goyard-esque print, and eats dragon
fruit on Instagram Live. In the show
and on social media, Sajat’s vibrant
confidence and advanced use of
digital filtering combine for an
overall mesmerizing effect. I’d hoped
to avoid any reference to America’s
own first family of reality television,
but the parallels are hard to ignore:
the impossibly long hair, the family
values, the way public interest in
Sajat’s lifestyle has spread,
Kardashian-like, across Malaysia, her
followers awash in a wave of flawless
contouring and flattering shapewear.
As Sajat racked up likes, views,
and customers on social media in
the late 2010s, her growing
business earned her currency
offline as well. She was recognized
by the sultan of Pahang as one of
the best Muslim businesswomen in
Malaysia, invited to speak at
universities and government-
affiliated business events, and
actively engaged in religious charity
work. Sajat never hid her identity as
a trans woman: She won the Miss
International Queen talent
competition in 2013, and explained
in interviews that she was born
intersex, raised as a boy, and
became a woman. But because the
transgender community faces
discrimination and persecution in
Malaysia, in more recent years she
began declining to publicly answer
questions about her gender as the
government became increasingly
fixated on her. “Even though there
were so many questions being
asked, especially on social media,
and people were questioning if I
was a woman, I did not respond,”
she says. “It’s not that I felt
embarrassed to say that I am trans,
but I was worried for my family, my
kids, and my career.”
Sajat’s growing success fueled
more and more interest in her
gender identity. The questions just
kept coming. But it wasn’t a few
online trolls debating her
chromosomal makeup that
ultimately forced her to go
underground and across multiple
national borders. It was a blouse and
a headscarf.
In 2018, Sajat attended a religious
event wearing a baju kurung—a
long-sleeve top with a sarong—and
headscarf, traditionally considered
female attire. “In Malaysia, there are
sharia laws that target Muslim
transgender people,” says an activist
with Justice for Sisters, a Malaysian
transgender advocacy group. “If you
wear women’s attire, you can be
fined and/or imprisoned.”
What is sharia law? Let’s back up
for a second: Malaysia has a dual
legal system. Federal and state laws
apply to everyone, and religious
sharia law applies only to Muslim
citizens and is enforced at the state
level. There are separate police
forces and courts; the religious
police, JAKIM, enforce sharia law.
“JAKIM does the religious raids and
oftentimes they’ll say, ‘We’re about
to go raid a bunch of LGBT people,’
and tell the [national] police to
come along,” says Phil Robertson,
deputy director of Human Rights
“IT’S NOT THAT I FELT
EMBARRASSED TO BE
TRANS. I WORRIED FOR
MY FAMILY, MY CAREER.”
Watch’s Asia division. “Because
then the police will say, ‘Okay, [if]
we find some instances of
wrongdoing, then we’ll have to
arrest them.’”
Before increasing Islamization
came to Malaysia in the ’80s, there
was more tolerance and respect for
transgender people in the country.
“At that time, transgender people
were able to access health services
from the government for free
when it came to gender identity
issues,” the Justice for Sisters
advocate says. “Trans health care
was provided for free, including
hormone replacement therapy and
sex reassignment surgery.” In
1982, however, a fatwa was issued
against sex reassignment surgery,
making it haram, or forbidden.
Says Robertson, “Islam has been
politicized in Malaysia. That’s the
reality of it. You’re dealing with
successive governments that have
used religion to [drum up] support.”
In 2021, three years after Sajat
wore women’s clothing to a religious
event, she was charged with
insulting Islam. This offense can be
punishable by jail time in a country
where transgender women are
sometimes imprisoned with men
because the government does not
recognize transgender identity.
When Sajat was called into the
Department of Islam to discuss the
charges, she alleges that religious
officers assaulted her, groping her
breasts as her mother called out in
protest. Sajat was ultimately
charged again, this time with
obstructing a civil servant. “It was an
excuse to hold her there,” Robertson
believes. “The sad part is that not
only was she hit with this charge,
but she was subjected to abuse in
custody, which is what happens
to transgender women all the time
in Malaysia.”
IDENTITY

When Sajat didn’t show up for
her court date in February 2021, the
religious authorities dispatched a
reported 122 officers and personnel
throughout the state of Selangor to
search for her—but she had fled,
leaving her family, spouse, children,
fortune, businesses, and home
country behind. Sajat crossed the
border into Thailand and a group of
Malaysian NGOs helped Robertson
and Human Rights Watch get her
safely to Bangkok.
While Robertson worked with
the U.N. High Commissioner for
Refugees to secure Sajat’s refugee
status, the Malaysian government
publicly suggested if Sajat returned
to Malaysia and “admitted wrong,”
rehabilitation camp could be an
option, all the while referring to
Sajat with male pronouns. The
Malaysian government also sought
to have her extradited from
Thailand, but Sajat was allowed to
very successful LGBT woman and
entrepreneur, selling cosmetics—and
selling a very prominent lifestyle.
That kind of image is threatening to
the Malaysian authorities. They don’t
want LGBT people and trans women
looking up to Nur Sajat and saying,
‘Well, geez, I can also do that kind
of thing. I can also be successful.
I can be who I am and I can live
my dreams.’”
If the Malaysian authorities
didn’t want people looking up to
Nur Sajat, their plan backfired, big
time. She’s back to showing others
that they can indeed live their
dreams: In her new home, Sajat is
taking her business global. “When I
reached Australia, I felt peace,” she
says. “And even though I had to
start from zero, I’m actually
blossoming when it comes to my
career as a businesswoman.”
Since starting over, she already
has a team selling her coveted
corset, Let’s Bengkung (in English,
“Let’s Bend”). And her new team
is starting to feel like a family. “Many
of them actually left their countries
or homes because they had their
own bad experiences or failures in
life, and I’m here to build them up as
a leader.”
Sajat launched her newest
product, a beauty supplement for
skin, hair, and nails, one year after
she was arrested and put in prison in
Malaysia. “It’s kind of sad, but at the
same time it’s empowering. I want
to prove to the trans community that
there’s hope,” she says. But she
can’t forget how she was targeted at
home. “My achievement shows
everybody, not just LGBT people,
that there’s always a second chance
in life.”

“THERE’S ALWAYS A
stay in the country as a refugee
under UNHCR protection until she
could safely settle in Australia.

SECOND CHANCE
Why did Malaysia go through all
this trouble? In the three years
between the clothing incident and

IN LIFE.”
the charges brought against her,
the Malaysian government has been
in the midst of a political crisis and
criticized for infighting and
mismanagement of the COVID-19
pandemic. The country has had
three different prime ministers
since 2018.
“I became a scapegoat for these
politicians and their corruption,”
Sajat says. “They use the LGBT issue
to divert attention from the main
issues of the country and I am one
of their victims.” Sajat is still a
practicing Muslim and is quick to

PORTRAITS: COURTESY OF SUBJECT. REMAINING IMAGES: GETTY IMAGES.

mention that she’s never blamed
Malaysia as a country for what
happened to her. “The citizens of
Malaysia are all victims of the
current situation—everyone. The
LGBT issue is the most sensitive
issue in Malaysia, and because I
have so many followers across social
media, I became the easiest target
for these politicians to use to divert
attention from their corruption.”
So: Why is Malaysia afraid of Nur
Sajat?
“The traditional view of LGBT
people by the government and
others is that somehow they’re social
misfits, and that if you go down this
path you will ruin yourself,”
Robertson says. “The interesting
thing about Nur Sajat is that she is a

44 ALLURE APRIL 2022

MODERN WELLNESS

A bathhouse in
St. Petersburg,
Florida, in the ’70s
 Soak
It Up
Humans have been
bathing together since
the dawn of civilization.
Only recently have things
trended toward the
(private) tub. But a revived
bathhouse culture is
emerging worldwide.
Maybe it’s time to take the
plunge. BY BRENNAN KILBANE
BY THE 1ST CENTURY B.C.
bathhouses were operating in Rome.
They were community centers of
hygiene, exercise, relaxation, and
other activities that exist today
under the greater wellness
umbrella—and some rather less
G-rated ones that do not. Admission
was superlatively cheap. Wealthy
patrons looking to purchase public
favor (or perhaps out of the kindness
of their solid-gold hearts!) would
often pay to waive entry fees,
effectively washing the masses.
Centuries later, the public bath is
less popular than it has ever been,
even in societies where communal
bathing is still culturally significant.
Tokyo has seen a trickling decline
in the use of sentos (community
OPPOSITE PAGE: JONATHAN BLAIR
bathhouses) and attempts to revive
the industry with flashier amenities—
in-bath movie screenings, beer taps,
a dozen cats (in one bathhouse’s
lobby, not the actual bath)—may not
be enough. During the pandemic,
Tokyo’s bathhouses were allowed
to remain open, but revenues in
some places fell by half. Historic
hammams throughout North
Africa—some of which had held on
for centuries—closed in March 2020,
some permanently. In Korea, about
3,000 public baths have shuttered
in the past three decades.
A decisive victory against the
modern bathhouse was won in the
19th century, when a man named
John Michael Kohler invented the
modern house bath—a cast-iron
tub first made from a pig trough
of all things—granting generations
of Americans the opportunity to
submerge themselves in warm
water without leaving their homes.
His name is thus porcelain-etched
into basically every bathroom in
America, like a guardian deity.
The bath is no longer a place
for community, for symposium,
for ablution. Even bathing at home
is falling out of favor, at least
according to a 2021 New York
Times report. Apparently, climate
enlightenment and worldwide social
distancing have inspired people to
bathe less overall.
There are two kinds of people
on this Earth: those who view the
bathhouse as a place to charge their
human battery and those who would
rather have a root canal than bathe
among strangers. But it is difficult,
if not biologically impossible, to
retain stress while you soak. The
impulse to seek out a hot bath,
where you can momentarily forget
it all and maybe experience a sense
of community, endures. If you are
feeling that millennia-old itch, this
story is for you.
Dip In a Toe
So, you want to visit a
bathhouse? Here’s what you
need to know.
1 KEEP QUIETISH
The earliest bathhouses were social centers,
so light conversation is welcome in the
hammams, onsens, and Russian banyas of
today. But be respectful of those who are
there to relax.
2 BYOB ( ATH PRODUCTS )
Shampoo and body wash may be provided;
they may not be better than the stuff you
have at home. (You’ll shower before your
soak.) Towels—one bath-size, one
washcloth to take into the water, where
permitted—are usually available on site, but
they’re just as easily mixed up with other
patrons’, so perhaps bring your own.
3 B A R E W H E R E?
Nudity rules vary across nations. Many
Japanese onsen forbid swimwear of any
kind. It keeps the water a few stitches purer.
By contrast, at a hammam (including baths
in Turkey, the Middle East, and North Africa)
you may wear a bathing suit or your
underwear. Coed bathhouses often have
swimwear-optional gendered baths and
swimwear-mandatory shared pools.
4 I N K O K?
Bringing a tattoo or four into the baths is
acceptable in nearly every bathing
culture—except, somewhat famously, in
Japan, where they have associations with
yakuza gangster culture. This stigma is
eroding by the day, but the front desk at
ryokan baths are typically stocked with
stickers for obscuring body art.
5 S TAY CO O L
As a reference, doctors caution that your
home bath should not exceed 120 degrees
Fahrenheit. At the natural springs in
Germany’s Baden-Baden, water comes out
of the ground at 132.8 or hotter. Using a
small bucket (or a cupped palm), introduce
the water to your skin in doses to acclimate.
APRIL 2022 ALLURE 47
MODERN WELLNESS

Waters of Life
IN THE FRENCH COUNTRYSIDE,
there’s a storybook main street—
cobblestone road, charming
storefronts, sheep down the way—in
the medieval town of La Roche Posay.
Just across from the pharmacie is
a building that features “Thermes
Saint-Roch” written in navy letters.
The building’s thermal center belongs
to La Roche-Posay, the skin-care
brand, not the town, and every year
some 7,500 people travel here from
around the world, hoping to treat skin
conditions such as eczema, psoriasis,
burn wounds, and skin-related side
effects after cancer treatment.
The same water that flows
through the town, from a thermal
spring purportedly discovered in
the 14th century, is piped into white-
and-blue tiled shower stalls and
baths inside the building. The water
is rich in selenium, a mineral that
is a known anti-inflammatory and
antioxidant. “The waters can help
alter the part of the skin’s immune
system that is overactive in eczema,
psoriasis, or scar formation,” says
Mona Gohara, M.D., an associate
clinical professor of dermatology at
Yale School of Medicine.
Patients have daily appointments
for three weeks, which usually
consist of a filiform shower (a type
of hydrotherapy using pressurized
water), a bath, a massage under
the water, and a spray. “The filiform
shower, for example, exfoliates to
eliminate scales and relieve itching
on atopic or psoriatic skin,” says
Olivier Maschi, development director
of the La Roche-Posay Thermal
Center (its English name). Infused
with healing minerals, “the water
looks like our typical bathing water,
but it certainly doesn’t feel that way,”
says Shari Marchbein, M.D., a clinical
assistant professor of dermatology at
NYU Grossman School of Medicine.
“It actually leaves a silky, hydrating
coating on skin.”
In less than a month, children
and adults alike can find relief. “The
experience is intensive; the patient’s
focus for three weeks is solely the
treatment of their skin condition,”
says Dr. Gohara. “But treating skin
conditions requires a multifaceted
approach, [and here] the epicenter
of the wheel is thermal spring water.”
—PAIGE STABLES

BRING IT ON HOME

If you are willing to cloths, which are

forgo the communal Japanese but recall
sense of wellness the Korean practice of
endemic to the luxurious. Undress, seshin, or full-body, for no less than 20
bathhouse setting, and turn on the manual exfoliation. minutes, but no more
it is possible to shower, but do not Now you are ready to than 45. You’ve got
replicate the enter it yet. Let the soak. If your bath is things to do! Namely,
experience in the steam fill your pores not already located in you need to apply
comfort and solitude and bathroom. Run a a mineral spring, you Red Flower’s
of your own home. moisturizing can manufacture your lightweight
First, take between $5 bar—Kate McLeod’s own with a few Hammam Cardamom
and $10 out of your Naked Stone, which handfuls of Bathing Amber Oil,
wallet and place it out wraps skin in a pillowy Culture’s Big Dipper massaging it from
of sight. This is a layer of cocoa salts—clay from your extremities
thought experiment butter—over your France, salt from the inward toward your
intended to see if skin. Then, in the Dead Sea, and pink chest. Done! Collect
paying for a bath shower, take a cloth salt from the your deposit from
makes it feel more and vigorously rinse, Himalayas. Luxuriate wherever you left it
shedding the top and enter the rest of
layer of your skin as your day healthier
you go. We like Salux and wealthier than
when you left it.

284 A.D. 1644 1717

Plumbing A new emperor, Diocletian,
ascends to the highest
Legend has it that Japanese onsens are
used to treat illnesses and injuries until a
The English aristocrat and proto-beauty
journalist Lady Mary Wortley Montagu

The Past position in the Roman Empire.

Under his reign, entrance to
the baths costs but two
denarii, the lowest
denomination of bronze coins.
shogun requests two barrels of hot
spring water be carried to his castle daily.
Citizens become curious, which leads to
leisurely bathing, hot springs inns, and
the slow birth of hot springs tourism.
visits the hammams of modern-day Sofia,
Bulgaria, and gawks marvelously at the
nudity: “All being in the state of nature,
that is, in plain English, stark naked,
without any beauty or defect concealed.”
 Wet, Hot,
American
Springs
THE BAKER HOTEL in Mineral
Wells, Texas once drew legions
of pilgrims to its healing waters,
including Judy Garland, Ronald
Reagan, and, allegedly, Bonnie
and Clyde. The hotel opened in
1929, during a time when the
town’s waters—which, we now
know, contained more than
trace amounts of lithium—were
being piped into local drinking
pavilions and bathhouses. The
Baker Hotel’s entire second
floor was one enormous, ornate
bathhouse and spa and the
MODEL: FERNANDO GOMEZ/TRUNK ARCHIVE. REMAINING IMAGES: GETTY IMAGES.

building itself was plumbed

Travel Guide
directly to local mineral wells.
Though it survived the Great
Depression—cattle barons kept
on coming—it has sat closed and
abandoned since 1972. “One day,
KINOSAKI ONSEN
there was a For Sale sign up,”
Tucked where river
says Chad Patton, a principal meets mountain,
on the new Baker Hotel and Spa
some inns in Japan’s
project, involving a $73 million Kinosaki Onsen resort
renovation. “All that plumbing town offer guests a
to local wells is still intact and hairihodai (all-you-
can-soak) package
will be updated and used going deal: a village of
forward. Our eventual goal is to
Japanese spas with
have indoor and outdoor bathing the price of an
facilities in those mineral waters. overnight stay. The
We have about 70,000 followers town’s seven “mystic”
onsen, each promising
on TikTok. You’d never think that
a different spiritual
20-somethings would have such benefit or river view
an interest, but check it out.
or marvel of natural
You’ll see.” The Baker Hotel is plumbing, unfurl
expected to reopen in 2024. conveniently through
this walkable historic
town.
BANYA ZHIVICA,
MOSCOW The
Siberian banya imbues
bathing with a certain
elemental intensity.
Banya Zhivica, in
central Moscow, offers
CAGALOGLU,
spagoers programs
ISTANBUL
lasting, at minimum,
Constructed in 1741,
an hour and a half, at
Cagaloglu is one of
maximum, five
Istanbul’s great
wonderful hours,
hammams.
under the stewardship
Magnificent marble
of a “bathing expert,”
colonnades and
who administers
domed ceilings give
oaken-broom whacks.
bathers the powerful
impression that they
An accompanying
treatment might
are supporting actors
include a bath of deer
in a sultan’s dream.
antler extract,
Yet, a tip-to-toe
followed by a massage
treatment, where the
of field grass or an
body is vigorously
ice-water plunge.
scrubbed and then
bathed in bubbles,
costs about as much
as a 45-minute
massage at a
mid-market Hilton.

1846 1891 1992

British Parliament passes the Public Bath
and Wash Houses Act, which gives local
authorities the state’s blessing (and financial
support, in the form of loans) to build public
baths. In the next two decades, nearly 50
baths are constructed in cities across
England and Wales.
New York City opens the
People’s Baths. According to
an 1895 report by the New York
Tenement House Committee,
out of 67,897 New Yorkers
surveyed, only about 300 have
access to bathrooms.
Finland’s Minister of Defense Elisabeth Rehn
publicly disavows the practice of conducting
national security debates in the sauna, a method
of diplomacy embraced by former Finnish Prime
Minister Urho Kekkonen and his predominantly
male cabinets. “I believe in making decisions
when I am fully clothed,” she said.

APRIL 2022 ALLURE 49

 Give him the
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 sons
e s
It a l i a n L
THESE PAGES: JACQUES BURGA/VOGUE MEXICO. STYLIST: SIMONE RUTIGLIANO. HAIR, MAKEUP, AND NAILS: ANDREEA NATALIA BUCUR.

THE GRITTI PALACE, A 15TH-CENTURY PALAZZO

ON THE GRAND CANAL, EMBODIES THE OPULENCE
OF VENICE. PHOTOGRAPHED THERE, MODEL FATY
SYLL SHOWS US HOW MAKEUP CAN TAKE
ON THE SAME LUMINOUS ENCHANTMENT.
Create stained-glass lids with liquid tints in pastel
colors that light up your whole face. We love Giorgio
Armani Eye Tint Long-Lasting Liquid Eyeshadow.

APRIL 2022 ALLURE 51

M A K E U P MAGIC

INK AND QUILL

Once upon a time, this magazine told you to trace a delicate dash of white eyeliner along your waterlines to brighten
your eyes. In this time: Why not take that 100 steps further with an opaque white cream brushed across your lids,
even up into your brows? (And adorn your hair with a spray of black feathers while you’re at it.) About-Face Matte
Fluid Eye Paint in White Noise comes with a doe-foot applicator that makes it easy to maneuver. If you prefer more
free-form artistry, dip a finger into a pot of Maybelline New York Color Tattoo Cream Eyeshadow in Chill Girl.

52 ALLURE APRIL 2022

RUBY
WOOED
If you want to fall in
love with red all over
again, we suggest
bypassing your lips
and blending a
lustrous crimson from
lash lines to brows.
Try Shiseido POP
PowderGel Eye
Shadow in Doki-Doki
Red or Hourglass
Scattered Light Glitter
Eye Shadow in
Rapture, which builds
from a sheer shimmer
to an opaque sparkle.
 Ask the
WHAT ARE THE NEXT BIG THINGS IN K-BEAUTY?
around 2011. It was a breakthrough
moment—the stuff in that aqua tube
gave me dewy cheeks with zero
sunspots—and it was happening in
front of millions of mirrors that year. I
am old enough to remember how BB
creams jump-started the K-beauty
phenomenon that has shaped the
last decade of beauty, which means
I am also old enough to be highly
invested in what comes next from
the world’s skin-care epicenter.
1. THE BIG HANBANG.
Pronounced hahn-bahng—but
you will know that very well, very
soon—these are traditional Korean
medicinal ingredients, like lotus
and ginseng. “You are seeing
hanbang translate into a lot of
Korean products,” says Charlotte
Cho, founder of Then I Met You and
cofounder of K-beauty retailer Soko
Glam, who notes that some brands
are basing their entire ethos on
this category. Acwell, for example,
uses traditional herbs and licorice
OTHERWISE INFLAMED) QUESTIONS TO BEAUTYEXPERT@ALLURE.COM.
54 ALLURE APRIL 2022
root for brightening and ginseng for
boosting microcirculation.
2. SLIME FOR A CHANGE.
What’s the next snail mucin, that
gloopy (and hydrating) secretion
we’ve seen in so many Korean sheet
masks and serums? Well, snail
mucin. But minus the snail part.
“The younger generation of Koreans
cares more about animals and, as
a result, vegan skin care is top of
mind,” says Cho. (Snails aren’t killed
for their mucin: Usually, they crawl
over mesh, their mucin is collected,
and then sterilized.) “You’re going to
see brands rolling out ‘phytomucin,’ a
vegan alternative, in the next year.” It
can be made from wild yam, okra, or
seaweed. Says King, “Seaweed and
okra have similar moisturizing and
firming benefits as snail secretions,
and wild yams may have antioxidant
and moisturizing benefits.”
WANT CHEEKY, LIPPY, AND EYE SHADOW-Y ADVICE, COURTESY OF
ALLURE’S EDITORS? SEND YOUR BURNING (OR ITCHING, OR
in Korea, but proceed with caution
when you inevitably see them here.
“I am in favor of anything to help
prevent maskne, but skin bacteria
are only one component,” says Jill
Weinstein, M.D., clinical instructor
of dermatology at Northwestern
University’s Feinberg School of
Medicine in Chicago. “Other factors
include occlusion and friction from a
mask, even heat and humidity under
a mask. Plus, spraying a liquid onto
paper masks may compromise their
integrity.”
5. TECH FUTURES.
As more Koreans use gadgets like LED
masks as part of a daily routine, Cho
has one last prediction: “Your next
big Korean skin-care trend may not
be in the form of an essence, mist,
or serum. It is going to come from
a top electronics company, such as
Samsung or LG.” —ELIZABETH SIEGEL
GETTY IMAGES
 Subscribe at

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KARINA LONGWORTH,
creator of YOU MUST REMEMBER THIS,
and VANESSA HOPE

WHEN A HOLLYWOOD MOGUL SHOT THE AGENT

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S O C I A L C R E AT U R E S

Global Tech Support

In the world’s great exchange

of ideas—and lipstick
shades—social media can
serve as society’s biggest
salon, a place to cultivate
beauty communities from
thousands of miles away.
BY ELIZABETH SIEGEL

ILLUSTRATED BY NIEGE BORGES

IT’S EASY TO FIND the downsides of
social media, but rolling your eyes at
vacation selfies—another sunset?—is
only part of the virtual experience.
If you haven’t always been
comfortable expressing yourself
however you want, in front of
whatever sunset you want,
Instagram and TikTok provide
creative escapes that can lift a low
mood, or even change everything.
Let’s say you live someplace
where one particular kind of cultural
beauty look is idolized—it happens
all over the world, to various extents.
“Pakistan’s beauty standards are
primarily rooted in its colonial
history, defined by Western ideals:
fair skin; long, silky hair; almond
eyes; and thin figures,” says Anaa
Saber, a New York City-based
Pakistani American model who’s
made annual trips to Pakistan since
childhood. “But access to social
media and beauty ideals from
around the world have opened the
floodgates to experimenting with
beauty from a counterculture
perspective.”
That freedom to experiment
doesn’t mean you need to dye your
hair pink and invest in holographic
makeup. “You don’t have to post.
Just curating your feed is a way to
express your tastes that can be self-
affirming,” says Stephanie Sadre-
Orafai, a sociocultural
anthropologist and associate
professor of women’s, gender, and
sexuality studies and media studies
at the University of Cincinnati. “And
it gives you a sense of community
whether or not you’re interacting
through comments.” In other words:
It’s possible to cultivate a sense of
belonging in a virtual world that can
mitigate a feeling of otherness in the
brick-and-mortar world.
“I never felt American enough in
school. And whenever I went back
home, I was never Pakistani enough,”
says Saber. “I was longing to be a
part of a community, and through
social media I met similar people
who could relate to my upbringing
from both my worlds. Social media
opened those doors to the
diaspora.”
While social media has been
correlated with a negative impact on
the mental health of some of its
youngest users, at its best it can
engender healthier habits, especially
in places like Korea, where aesthetic
expectations have historically been
“really difficult and really harsh,”
says Charlotte Cho, a Korean
American and cofounder of Soko
Glam and founder of Then I Met You.
Now, “you can see diversity in body
types on Instagram, TikTok, all of
these global platforms. Fitness and
well-being is trending now [among]
Gen Z,” she says. “That whole idea of
being slim and petite and small has
changed. I think that’s a positive,
because a curvy physique is not
traditionally a beauty ideal in Korea.
When you’re not just looking at your
own friends in this bubble, it’s a
great opportunity to feel more
comfortable.”
And if your local community
judges you for wearing purple
lipstick, you can play with color for a
virtual audience without the side-
eye. “It’s funny because our country
is full of color—the flower markets,
the temples—but people are shy to
wear colorful makeup,” says model
Dream Passalak of Thailand. “I love
to wear colorful makeup every day,
so people thought I was not Thai:
‘You must be a foreigner.’ It was
hard. But Instagram has affected a
lot. The older generation plays with
color online too, and I think people
are more open-minded now.”
For queer youth around the world
who may not have access to LGBTQ+
communities outside of social
media, “having safe spaces to
“CURATING YOUR
FEED TO EXPRESS
YOUR TASTES CAN
BE SELF-AFFIRMING.”
navigate online is, in a lot of ways, a
lifeline,” says Brian Wenke, executive
director of It Gets Better Project. The
nonprofit focuses on uplifting and
empowering LGBTQ+ youth on four
continents through storytelling,
educational programming, and
social media events primarily on
TikTok and Twitch. One of their
biggest success stories is that of It
Gets Better Russia. “There are
propaganda laws in place there that
make it very difficult to talk about
the queer experience in public
forums,” explains Wenke. “So our
affiliate found a creative way to
navigate that by flagging their
content as 18+, building up a
tangible following through VK [the
Facebook equivalent in Russia].” And
in both Central and South America,
where laws protecting LGBTQ+
people have improved but have not
erased cultural stigma, It Gets Better
affiliates have safe hours where
young people can anonymously
seek mental health counseling
online. They also offer more colorful
forms of support. “For our virtual
Pride celebration, [Colombian
beauty influencers] Calle y Poché
conducted beauty tutorial
segments. It was hands down the
most watched segment of the
event,” says Wenke. “Events like this
give people hope in this space.… It’s
a beautiful thing to watch.”
We are not saying that social
media isn’t flawed. It is. But
sometimes, in so many varied
pockets of the world, these platforms
actually do what they are intended
to—connect, support, and inspire—
and that can make all the difference
in someone’s life, or look.
APRIL 2022 ALLURE 57
 T H E FAC E C H A RT W I T H

Banke Meshida Lawal

“This project on the lower GET THE LOOK: Melt

took me back. I’d eyelids. Greens, Cosmetics Gemini
Palette, BMPRO
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painting on face unforgettable they turn the ombré, trace Eyeliner in Jet Black,
charts, then life engagement- eyes magical. lips with a liner Wynkk Beauty lashes,
got too busy. Now party look. I’d Ombré lips are and then apply BMPRO Matte Lipstick
I’m thinking of fallen in love one of the things lipstick over it. in Chocolate Mousse
creating a face clients [here in and Geisha Girl, MAC
with the muted Use a lip brush
Cosmetics Lipglass
chart for every greens in an eye Nigeria] have to blend the and Lip Pencil in
single bride I work shadow palette told me they colors, then add Chestnut, C.B.C Candy
with. [For this and it was an love about my a stark white Beauty Cosmetics
one], I wanted excuse to pile makeup over cream in the Duo Chrome Glitter,
the years. To and Juvia’s Place The
them on. I always center and top
Saharan Vol. 1 Blush
love to add color with lacquer. Palette.

58 ALLURE APRIL 2022 ILLUSTRATION BY SAMANTHA HAHN

 Tia
ME, MY SHELF & I

Wood BY DIANNA MAZZONE

Growing up in Saddle Lake Cree

3

1
Nation in Alberta, Canada, Tia Wood
(who also has Salish ancestry) began
dancing almost as soon as she
learned to walk. She spent weekends
performing at powwows wearing full
Indigenous regalia, but at school she
hid behind colored contacts, and
edited her online photos to look “a
lot lighter” than her natural skin tone.
But in high school, she had a
revelation: “‘Wait a minute! We don’t
have to do this. We’re beautiful too,’”
recalls Wood. “I started decolonizing
beauty standards and doing things
that highlighted all my Indigenous
features, like my hair and my nose.”
Around the same time, she began
posting videos on TikTok educating
others about her culture while
showcasing her musical talent. Now,
after moving to Los Angeles to
5
pursue her singing career, she’s
ready to try out an even bigger stage.
PROP STYLIST: NICOLE LOUIE. WOOD: RACHEL BARKMAN.

“I used to have really severe acne and I

tried a lot of very harsh [treatments] on
my face. Then I started using Olay Total
Effects 7 in 1 Moisturizer [1] and it really
helped my acne clear up and even out
my skin tone. I noticed that when I’m in 9
colder climates, I break out more.”

“Milani Bright Side Illuminating Face

Primer [9] is a new favorite. I started using
it because we had powwows here in Cali
and it was the only primer that I could
find at Walgreens. But then I really liked it.
Powwows can go from noon to midnight
and this helped everything stay in place.”

60 ALLURE APRIL 2022

 “I use two different shades of
CoverGirl TruBlend Undercover
Concealer [8]: one that’s my
actual skin tone and another as a
highlighter. I don’t wear any other
foundation, just this. I use a sponge
to blend it in.”

“There are some great Indigenous

beauty brands and Cheekbone
Beauty is really good quality. I
4 apply Sustain Blush/Bronzer in
Medium [4] with a fluffy brush. I
use one side of it at a time. I really
hate sticky lip glosses, [but] their
Sustain Lip Gloss [5] (in Fire, Wild
Berry, and Sundance) isn’t like
that at all. It’s shiny, not sticky. I
wear it religiously.”

“I learned the powder ‘baking’

technique on YouTube and it
really does make a difference [for
setting makeup]. I bake with Coty
Airspun Loose Face Powder [6]
where I get most greasy, like the
sides of my nose and under my
eyes. One/Size Preserve the Serve
Luminous Setting Spray [2] gets
rid of that cakeyness you can have
with matte makeup.”
7

“It depends on my mood, but I do

like wearing makeup even if I’m just
chilling or going to the studio.
Garnier SkinActive Micellar
6
Cleansing Water All-in-1 [3] takes it
off, but is super gentle on my skin.”

“My [body] also gets really dry in

cold climates. So when I go home
8 [to Alberta] I always make sure to
bring a little cup filled with Lush
Dream Cream Body Lotion [7].”

B. Yellowtail scarf. Hecho a Mano earrings

and necklace. B. Yellowtail rings.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY JOE LINGEMAN

 d In
Focus

e
and
On

e
Point
As 1.4 billion Indians
could tell you,
Deepika Padukone
is the queen of
Bollywood. Her
dedication to mental
health and wellness
stands out in an
industry that, like its
Western cousin, has
traditionally traded
primarily on looks.
By Dianna Mazzone

a
PHOTOGRAPHED
BY RID BURMAN

ik
62
 Dateline Mumbai
Lune earring. Misho ear cuff. To create a similar makeup look: Drama Liqui-Pencil Waterproof Eyeliner in
Purple Cabaret, Dual Finish Highlighter in Radiant Rose Gold, and L’Absolu Mademoiselle Lip Balm in Ice Cold Pink by Lancôme.
These pages: Fashion stylist, Priyanka Kapadia. Hair: Yianni Tsapatori. Makeup: Daniel Bauer. Manicure: Pooja K and
Sunita P. Set design: Sandesh Kambli. Production: Khatri Productions.
 W
When Deepika Padukone was a toddler, she had a ”very,
very naughty” habit of climbing on sofas and tables. She
grew out of it when she was about five. (“The minute my
sister was born, I calmed down and I became protective
and maternal.”) But metaphorically, you might say Padu-
kone’s feet still haven’t touched the ground.
As the reigning queen of the Indian film industry—also
known as Bollywood—Padukone has been put on a ped-
estal. When I send a message to a WhatsApp group of
my India-dwelling, soon-to-be in-laws and ask for their
impressions of her, they speak of Padukone in the same
sort of glowing terms you or I (assuming you, too, are
more familiar with Hollywood actors) might use when
describing Jennifer Lawrence or Lupita Nyong’o. Of
course, they represent just a teeny, tiny fraction of the
some 1.4 billion people living in India, but considering the
sheer number of followers Padukone has on Instagram
(64.4 million and counting), it’s safe to say they are drops
in a very large ocean.
Before Padukone ascended to her Bollywood throne,
she ruled over another court: badminton. What began for
her as an after-school hobby quickly turned into competi-
tion at the national level. Padukone’s skills run in the family:
Her father, Prakash, was a professional player, ranked num-
ber one in the world in 1980. (Six years later, Padukone was
born in Copenhagen, where her father and her mother,
Ujjala, had moved in pursuit of the game.)
“A lot of the life I live today is based on sport,” says
Padukone, “that routine and discipline.” As a kid growing
up in Bangalore, she recalls waking up at four-thirty in
the morning on school days for training, then racing to
school, after which she’d stop home for just enough time
to grab a snack before heading out for another practice
session. “When my friends caught up on weekends or
had sleepovers, I didn’t really do much of that,” Padukone
says. “You make certain sacrifices.”
Somewhere between competitions, she started model-
ing at the behest of a friend’s mother, who ran an agency.
When Padukone finally took a break from badminton at
age 16—if you can call pausing to take your board exams
(the equivalent of the SATs) a break—she had the realiza-
tion that she preferred modeling to athletics.
“I sat [my parents] down and had this conversation
with them and they were supportive. My father remem-
bered his parents allowing him to just follow his heart,
so they did the same [for me],” says Padukone. “The only
thing they wanted me to do was finish my education…
which I didn’t end up doing because when I started mod-
eling, things got so busy.”
“Busy” is a rather humble way to characterize
Padukone’s quick ascent. In a matter of months, she
landed major campaigns that included TV commercials
and print ads that caught the attention of Bollywood
casting directors. She received several movie offers, but
“I wasn’t ready for them,” she says. “I don’t know where
64
I found the wisdom and the courage and the strength to
say no, but I said it.”
I ask her if she’s a big believer in the timing of the uni-
verse. “Sometimes I just know [things] deep down inside.
I don’t have to vocalize it. I don’t have to say it to anyone.
I just know.” She offers the example of knowing, even as
she was pursuing modeling, that she would eventually
be an actor. “We’d sit in a [movie] theater and I’d see
some of these actresses onscreen. I don’t know what it
was. I just looked at them and felt like, This is where I’m
going to be,” she says. “And, honestly, I did nothing to
consciously work toward that, which I find so strange.”
When the timing was right, she did, however, pursue
one of those film roles. “A very prominent director noticed
me in one of these [modeling] campaigns. She was cast-
ing for a movie opposite India’s biggest superstar,” says
Padukone. “He was then and he continues to be.”
That star was Shah Rukh Khan, and that film turned
out to be Om Shanti Om which, if you ask anyone in that
family WhatsApp chat, is one of the greatest—if not the
greatest—Bollywood movies of all time.
After passing muster with a choreographer
(Bollywood films are known for their elaborate dance
sequences) and meeting Khan at his home (“I remem-
ber just sitting at the edge of the sofa, being so nervous,
and almost in a daze. I couldn’t even process what was
happening”), Padukone found herself on a film set for the
very first time. “They never auditioned me. Even today,
I look at [the director, Farah Khan,] and I’m like, ‘What
were you guys thinking?’”
Following the film’s premiere in 2007, Padukone’s
life changed overnight. But at the same time that offers
started pouring in, Padukone says she began “feeling
lost” in the industry: “My first experience was almost
served to me on a platter. I was so well presented and
so well taken care of that I thought that’s just the way it’s
going to be; that the director would always make sure
that I act well, and that my diction is on point and I’m
looking amazing.” She continues, “It took me many, many
films to realize that’s not always the case. There’s parts of it
that the director will bring, but there’s a lot of it that I need
to bring to the table [myself].”
Padukone considers the 2012 movie Cocktail, in which
she plays a spunky London nightclub-goer, a turning point
in her career. “Just in terms of the character, the movie
itself, the music in the film, the way I was being styled,
I knew that this was that moment I could really change
things for myself if I wanted to,” she recalls. “I was able to
let go of my inhibitions.”
In the years since, she has taken on roles as varied
as a star-crossed lover based on Shakespeare’s Juliet (in
RamLeela, opposite her now-husband, Ranveer Singh);
a strong-willed architect (in the comedy Piku); and an
acid-attack survivor (in Chhapaak, which tells the real-
life story of Laxmi Agarwal).
Short and Sweet
The Attico top and skirt.
Swarovski earrings.
Anushka Jain Jewellery
and Zevar King rings. To
create a similar makeup
look: Terracotta Light in
Natural Warm, Precious
Light Rejuvenating Effect
Illuminator in Light
Golden, and KissKiss Bee
Glow in Honey Glow
by Guerlain.
 Chhapaak was the first film undertaken by Ka
Productions, a company formed by Padukone in 2018.
Serving as a producer puts her in the driver’s seat for
creative and operational decisions. “I think it really gives
me an opportunity to change a lot of things that I’ve
seen go amiss as an actor. Things are just brushed under
the carpet,” she says. “I’m that person who will always
question why things are being done a certain way, even
if they’d been done the same way for many, many years.”
Those things, says Padukone, can range from mak-
ing sure there are nutritious food options on set to
establishing equitable working conditions. “I think it’s
important for the crew be compensated for [overtime].
And if you do go over, you have to ensure that everyone
gets at least a 12-hour turnaround. You can’t finish at
midnight and then expect everyone to be back on set at
seven in the morning,” she says.
As one of a small but growing number of female
producers in Bollywood, Padukone is committed to pri-
oritizing diversity in all its forms when casting. “I think
“FOCUSING ON THE IMPORTANCE OF
MENTAL HEALTH IS MY CALLING.”
we’ve moved on from Indians just being the doctor or
the taxi driver in the movie,” she says. “[But] I think we
have a long way to go.”
Padukone didn’t always share her opinions so freely.
“Speaking out about my experience with mental illness
and standing up for what I believe in, I think all of that
happened around the same time,” she says. She’s ref-
erencing the decision she made in 2015 to share her
struggle with depression with the world. The year prior,
“I remember just waking up feeling completely unmo-
tivated, directionless…I didn’t want to face the world,”
she says. “Life just felt meaningless.”
Padukone recounts breaking down in front of her
mother in the same room inside her Mumbai home
where she’s speaking to me from now. The walls are cov-
ered in pastel floral wallpaper and I think to myself that
it does not look like a room in which anything bad could
possibly happen. But, of course, there’s always more
to something—or someone—than what meets the eye.
“I had this blockbuster year and everything was going
perfectly well. I was in this relationship [with the person]
who I’m married to now. And everything was perfect.
Like, how could life be any better?” she says. “I think
that’s probably how it seemed to everyone around me,
including myself.”
Padukone’s mother was the first to recognize that
her daughter needed professional help. She connected
her with a family friend and counselor, who worked
in tandem with a psychiatrist to diagnose Padukone
with clinical depression. The actor was immediately
prescribed medication, but resisted it “for a very long
time.” Today, she sees being open about mental health
as an equally important step in her own healing.
“I struggled and I suffered for many months because
I didn’t know anyone who had been through something
like this,” she says. “I felt like if I shared my experience
and even just one person was like, ‘I identify with these
symptoms,’ then my purpose would be served.”
Padukone’s story inspired not just one person, but
66
likely millions. Data published by the World Health
Organization shows that approximately 15 percent of
Indian adults “need active intervention for one or more
mental health issues.” It’s possible the real number is even
higher, since Padukone reports that in India there’s still
considerable stigma around discussing mental health.
She established the LiveLoveLaugh Foundation to
keep the conversation going and to provide resources
for those who are suffering. Since the ratio of psychi-
atrists to the general population in India is just 0.75
(so, not even one whole psychiatrist) to every 100,000
people, one of the foundation’s most important under-
takings was creating a certification program to help
general physicians learn to identify, manage, and treat
common mental health disorders.
And that’s just the start of what Padukone hopes to
accomplish. “I think that focusing on the importance of
mental health is what my calling is,” she says. “It’s work
that I will continue to do. And hopefully the foundation
will survive even beyond me.”
Padukone, though just 36, has been thinking about her
legacy a lot lately. “You reach a stage in your life where
you wake up thinking, What is it that I want to be remem-
bered for? And what is it that I want to leave behind?”
she says. The answer—in addition, of course, to the foun-
dation and her acting oeuvre—is an as-yet-unnamed life-
style brand centered on self-care and ritual.
With that in mind, it’s fitting that beauty—specif-
ically, skin care—will launch first. The debut products
include cleanser, toner, moisturizer, eye cream, and
SPF, all of which will “marry what we call a global ingre-
dient with an Indian ingredient and bring the best of
both together,” says Padukone.
“I wanted the products to reflect my journey and
my experience. I’ve led this life of being—how do I
say this?—extremely rooted, but at the same time I’ve
also had a lot of exposure to the rest of the world,” she
explains. “I think the line and the collection is an exten-
sion of that. For example, I’m not someone who wakes
up and wears a sari every morning, but neither am I
someone who wakes up and wears a suit every morn-
ing. I think that’s where the modern Indian woman is
today. She can embrace the best of both worlds.”
I ask her how, coming from an industry hyper-focused
on box office numbers, she plans to measure the
brand’s success: “I think if we are able to shift the nee-
dle [when it comes to] the kind of lifestyles people have
and help them prioritize their mental health along with
their physical health, that for me will define the success
of this brand.”
Giving people the tools to create an “uncompli-
cated” yet efficacious skin-care ritual is just the first
means by which Padukone plans to do so. She also
envisions launching candles, athleisure, and home
decor in the years ahead. “I’ve always been fascinated
by spaces, interiors, and that sort of thing,” she says. I
smile, thinking about how Padukone went from scaling
couch cushions to now, perhaps, creating them. And so
begins another climb.
Purple Reign
Halpern dress. Swarovski
earring. Radhika Agrawal
Jewels rings.
FA C E S O F
KAB

ROAD SHOW
“When I traveled to Afghanistan for the first
time in 2013, I had to be with a man to take
a taxi,” says Hossaini, who notes that had
changed in more recent years. “I decided
to invite this woman to sit in the taxi. She
wanted to experience the freedom.”
UL
WHEN PHOTOGRAPHER FATIMAH HOSSAINI BEGAN
DOCUMENTING THE BEAUTY AND STRENGTH OF AFGHAN
WOMEN, SHE HAD NO IDEA THAT THEIR WORLD WOULD SOON
BE UPENDED. TODAY, HER WORK IS A REMINDER OF WHAT’S AT
STAKE—AND THE UNWAVERING RESILIENCE OF HER SUBJECTS.
P HOTOGRA PHED BY FATI MAH HOS SA IN I A S TO LD TO D IA NN A MA ZZO N E
 My grandparents left Afghanistan
during the Soviet War, when my
parents were kids, and migrated
to Iran. I was born in Tehran, [the
capital], and grew up there. Since
high school, I was always looking
to understand what it means to
be an Afghan. I was carrying the
name of Afghanistan within myself,
but I had never been there. I didn’t
know where Afghanistan was. I was
challenged by my identity.
I was looking for any opportunity
to go to Afghanistan and in 2013, I
was able to take a trip through the
University of Tehran, where I was
studying photography. By 2015, I
lived between Tehran and Kabul, and
after graduation in 2018, I moved to
Afghanistan completely.
When I arrived in Kabul, I could
see that there was so much beauty
that no media was covering. They
wanted to victimize the women of
70
Afghanistan; to show them in burkas.
I had photographed women in burkas
before, too, because when I was in Iran,
whenever I searched for information
on the women of Afghanistan, it was
all about restrictions.
But when I moved to Afghanistan
myself, I could see that the new
generation was so different. So I
decided to tell the story of the women
of Afghanistan. I invited different LIFE IN
women to stand in front of my COLOR
camera. I cannot say that everything Hossaini says this
was perfect then, but at least we had image represents the
a part of democracy. Women could marriage of tradition and
experience the freedom to go out in modernity. “In the past
few years of the republic,
the streets. We had a space in the
so many women [got]
economy and politics and the arts, tattoos,” she says, adding
every part of society. that the woman pictured
On August 15 of last year, the here also has her nails
Taliban took over Kabul. The main and makeup done. “I want
victims, as it always happens, are to cut [through] the cliché
expectations that Afghan
women. They [largely] banned
women don’t know about
women from going back to school, [those things].”

BEHIND THE SEAMS
Though most of the textile shops
that line Chicken Street, a popular
shopping district in Kabul, are run by
men, Hossaini sought to capture the
femininity of the handmade fabrics.
“She’s drinking tea as a symbol of
Afghan hospitality,” says Hossaini.
“Everywhere you go in Kabul—shops
included—you are [offered] Afghan
green tea.”
“I’M TRYING TO
KEEP THE STORIES
OF THE WOMEN OF
AFGHANISTAN ALIVE.”
going back to work. They imposed
very crazy outfits. We worked over two
decades to tell the world that there’s
more to the women of Afghanistan
than burkas. It’s very heartbreaking
to see that within weeks, we lost
everything. Our women have to go
to the streets in protest to ask for
basic rights again—and the Taliban is
arresting them for doing so.
I was forced to leave my home
and my Afghanistan. Being born out
of the country, I could never imagine
how war can be, how panic-inducing.
When I reached the airport, it was
crazy because of all the people there.
Your future and life could change
 LIFE
CYCLE
This photograph of a
woman with a bike on
Chicken Street was
one of the last images
Hossaini captured
before she was forced
to flee Kabul.

within hours. Getting out depended

on which country had troops that
could take you. In the end, French
troops recognized me, as the
ambassador was there. They took
me to a French shelter and now I’m
in Paris.
Because I had to leave
Afghanistan, I couldn’t finish the last
series, called “Pearl in the Oyster,”
for my photo book, Beauty Amid War.
At first, I wanted to end it with black-
and-white pictures to represent the
day we lost everything. But then
I thought about the concepts of
my work—beauty, femininity, and
hope. Why did I have to finish the
book with black-and-white pictures?
So instead, I decided to work on
portraits of Afghan women artists
who left Afghanistan for France.
I don’t know why these terrorists
have a problem with women. I
do know that they are afraid of
women’s power. Through my work,
I’m trying to keep the stories of the
women of Afghanistan alive. I think
that a photo can change the world.
An image is more powerful than a
thousand words.

APRIL 2022 ALLURE 73

 POWER
In South Asian culture, hair holds a lot of currency. It’s the ultimate signifier of beauty.
The hair of South Asian women is even sought after around the world for wigs and extensions:
It’s long, it’s strong, it’s glossy black. Oh, and it’s very, very straight. Except when it’s not at all.
We talked to three models of South Asian heritage about how they learned to appreciate, even
love, their rich, sometimes raucous waves and curls. BY JADA JACKSON

PHOTOGRAPHED BY PETER ASH LEE

74
UPWARD SPIRALS
David Koma dress. Norma Kamali
one-piece. Demarson earrings. To
create a similar makeup look: Hot
Singles Eyeshadow in Heat and
STFU, Epic Wear Liner Sticks in
Blue Trip, Turquoise Storm, and
Intense Tea, Epic Wear Metallic
Liquid Liner in Brown Metal, and
Epic Wear Liquid Liner in Stone Fox
by Nyx Professional Makeup.
These pages: Fashion stylist, Ron
Hartleben. Hair: Tsuki. Makeup:
Sena Murahashi. Manicure: Naomi
Yasuda. Models, from top: Amira
Chandni Dhanoa, Shaanti Chaitram,
and Deseni Fernando.
FRESH PERSPECTIVES
“Growing up in New Jersey,
I was surrounded by girls
who looked a lot different
than me—they all had
straight, silky hair. I started
to straighten my big, poofy
curls because I wanted to
be just like them,” explains
Sri Lankan American model
Deseni Fernando. “But after
seeing more people in the
media and in my South
Asian community embrace
their curls, I started to see
the beauty in that. I
thought, Wow, my hair is
like that too.” So over the
last year, Fernando stopped
straightening for good.
“Embracing my curls has
made me a much more
confident and proud South
Asian woman,” she says.
Theophilio bodysuit.
Hannah Jewett necklace.
Mateo ring. To create
a similar makeup look:
Chromagraphic Pencil in
Landscape Green and
Lipglass in Spite by MAC.
 MAKING SPACE
“When I first started
modeling I would go to
shoots with my hair blow-
dried. I thought it would
be easier for the
hairstylist,” says Indo
Guyanese model Shaanti
Chaitram. “I was thinking,
I will just try to take up as
little space as possible.
And all the other South
Asian models that I saw
had pin-straight hair. It
almost felt like I was
hiding a part of myself.”
By putting aside her hot
tools and claiming her
whole self, Chaitram has
found encouragement
from the natural hair
movement on social
media: “It’s not
specifically directed
toward me as a South
Asian woman, but it gives
me room to not feel like I
have to straighten my
hair. Because straight hair
is not the only thing that
looks great.”
Saint Laurent by Anthony
Vaccarello catsuit. Area
earrings. To create a
similar makeup look: Artist
Color Shadow in Lime
Green, Nile Green, and
Bottle Green, Aqua Resist
Color Pencil Eyeliner in
Graphite, and Rouge Artist
Lipstick in Vivid Naked by
Make Up For Ever.
GROWTH EXPERIENCE
“My family’s from Punjab and we are Sikhs,”
says Indian American model Amira Chandni
Dhanoa. “In the Sikh religion, your hair gives
you strength. That’s where your energy comes
from.” So Dhanoa had never cut her hair, up
until a few months ago. “As I let it grow out
again, I am able to see how much vibrance my
hair holds,” she says. “And I’ve realized how
normal it was for me to feel overwhelmed by
my hair as a girl because of how curly and
thick it was.” Dhanoa recalls her mom
straightening it for her, starting around
second grade: “It would take hours and she
would do it while I slept. I would go to bed with
curly hair and wake up with silky coconut oil–
straightened hair.” As an adult, it took cutting
it all off to find love for her natural texture:
“Growing it back, learning how to nourish it…
that saved my relationship with my hair.”
Rick Owens gown. Sophie Buhai bracelet.

78
NATURAL WONDERS
From left: Mônot bra and pants.
Demarson earrings. Cup of Stars
blouse and dress (worn as a skirt).
Sophie Buhai earrings.
 IN SOME PARTS OF THE WORLD, KOHL IS MORE
THAN JUST AN EYELINER. IT IS A SPIRITUAL
PRACTICE, A CULTURAL PHENOMENON, AND FOR
WRITER IMAN SULTAN, IT IS HOME.
WHEN I WAS 13 YEARS OLD, I STOOD IN FRONT OF THE MIRROR and traced a
rich black liner around the inner rims of my eyes. Before that moment I’d only been
allowed to wear makeup for special occasions and parties, with my mother as the
makeup artist, dabbing my eyes with kohl. They would quickly start to water and, as
I blinked, the liner silhouetted my eyes with its deep, intense magic.
At 13, I was old enough to wield my own kohl eyeliner, Hashmi Kajal (kajal is the
Hindustani word for kohl). The jet-black cream came in a red-and-black tube with a
flashy gold applicator. If Pakistan had a national eyeliner, it would be Hashmi Kajal.
In fact, it tends to be used by South Asians wherever they are, whether in India,
diasporic communities in the Middle East, or in Queens. I’ve found it’s also available
in the United States, even though the FDA has banned any product with kohl or kajal
as a color additive, including Hashmi Kajal. (The words kohl and kajal are used legally
as marketing terms in the U.S., often to describe creamy, richly pigmented liners. But
as a color additive, kohl and kajal—or other names it might go by, such as al-kahal,
surma, tiro, tozali, and kwalli—are banned by the FDA.)
As a Pakistani American teenager growing up in a Philadelphia suburb, traditional
kohl was a talisman of sorts. I looked different than almost everyone in my town.
When I felt I didn’t belong, lining my eyes with even the lightest touch of kohl
instantly reminded me of Pakistan and made me feel confident in my beauty.
In the 13 years since I first lined my own eyes, I have expanded my makeup routine,
but kohl has been a constant. By the time I was an adult, living and working in Karachi,
Pakistan, I layered my entire face with foundation and bronzer, building a lacquered
wall against the men I had to deal with outside the sanctuary of my grandmother’s
home. But I still wore kajal, its lush pigment defining my heavy-lidded eyes.
Kohl is a magic spell, a declaration of intention, a will to power. After remaining in
an abusive relationship, using kohl helped me gather the pieces and transform into
myself again. Kohl was, and still is, a home for me. No matter where I am or what
challenges I confront, it is an asset both humble and powerful.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY STEPHANIE GONOT

80
 In South Asia, kohl may be
kept in small brass bottles.
By Far tote. JW Pei bag. Jewelry,
counterclockwise from top: Prounis
chain, pendant, and ring; Sauer
bracelet; Prounis ring; and Sauer ring.
Prop stylist: Samantha Margherita
 1

Black Is the Kulfi Underlined Kajal Eyeliner in Nazar No More (1) has all of
the pigment but none of the smeariness of traditional kohls.

New Black Rituel de Fille The Black Orb Enigmatic Eyeliner (2) comes in a
pot reminiscent of traditional kohls (smudge it on with your
fingers or a brush). Neither contain traditional kohl color
additives, so both are legal in the U.S.
 SACRED
PRACTICE
In South Asia, traditional kohl
transcends surface-level beauty
and is often used as a form of
protection against the evil eye,
When you see kohl or kajal used legally on the side of an a jealous gaze believed to
eyeliner in the U.S., it is a marketing term meant to make cause fatalistic harm and injury.
you think of intense black pigments and creamy textures. “Recently, I had a bride come to
But these liners are not made of traditional kohl’s iron oxide me for her makeup, and her
pigments (with their signature black, red, and yellow tones). mother told me to put a dot of
They are made of the same color additives in most modern kajal behind her ear [to ward
eyeliners because of the FDA’s ban on kohl color additives off the evil eye],” says Syed
and potential health risks. Zubair, a Karachi-based makeup
Traditional kohls have iron oxide pigments and can come artist. In traditional households,
in a few different forms: as a creamy stick or pencil, in a newborns’ eyes are delicately
squeezable tube, or in a pot, similar to a powder. This last dabbed with kohl because of
form is usually kept on hand for religious purposes, applied the widely held belief that it
delicately with a clean finger or a separate applicator, but repels not just the evil eye, but
it may also be used as makeup if you’re old school. (My the glare of the sun and some
grandmother keeps hers this way.) Traditional kohl is called diseases. In Ayurvedic
“surma” by Muslims, who may use it for religious purposes; medicine, kohl is said to have
it may be worn as an eyeliner during Ramadan. healing properties for cleansing
Traditional kohl has also been made at home: Ingredients and rejuvenating the eyes,
like almonds or aloe vera may be burned using a clay lamp and practitioners use it to make
over which a clean plate (of bronze or copper, for example) preventative treatments for
traps the fumes. The soot that collects on the plate may be eye infections.
mixed with clarified butter or oil, creating kohl—and giving
the material its creamy texture and sweet fragrance. This is
how our grandmothers and great-grandmothers made cos- THE
metic kajal, often keeping it in small brass bottles.
Regardless of how it is created, kohl, when used as a cos- CONUNDRUM
metic, is applied on the waterlines of the eyes, making them Throughout Africa, the Middle
look pronounced without trying too hard. “It’s a no-fuss, East, and South Asia, traditional
easy product,” says Natasha Ramachandran, a model in New kohl is a cultural and cosmetic
York, who grew up in India. “You don’t have a lot of makeup staple, yet it is not without
on, and kajal...it adds a little something to your face. A lot of potential health risks: “The black
women seek comfort in that.” iron oxide and pigments in most
commercially produced kajal
may contain elevated levels of
lead,” says Renuka Thergaonkar,

SMOKE SHOW
Ph.D., a cosmetic chemist in
Mumbai. “Prolonged application
After rimming your eyes with liner (on the waterlines, can cause excessive lead storage
instead of along the lash lines, is the classic way to use in the body, which impacts the
traditional kohl) “push a rich bronze shadow into the base brain.” The brain damage can
of the lashes, and [add] an even softer color like dirty lead to cognitive dysfunction
gold to create a diffusion,” says Bina Khan, a celebrated and neurological disorders. In
makeup artist from Karachi. “It’ll create the impression the U.S., the FDA has banned
that your [liner] has smudged really nicely.” kohl as a color additive.

83
 London,

Baby
GO OFF THE MAIN DRAG, TAKE A LEFT, AND YOU WILL FIND
LONDON’S MOST CHARMING BRITISH BEAUTY SPOTS—AND
ONE VERY DELICIOUS CURRIED APRICOT- CHICKEN SANDWICH.
YOUR TOUR GUIDE TODAY WILL BE BRIDGERTON’S
CHARITHRA CHANDRAN, NBD. BY ANITA BHAGWANDAS

PHOTOGRAPHED BY ROSALINE SHAHNAVAZ

84
Chanel jacket and top. To
create a similar makeup
look: Matte Signature
Liquid Dip Eyeliner in Blue,
True Match Mineral Blush
in Bare Honey, and Rouge
Signature Lightweight
Matte Lip Stain in I Create
by L’Oréal Paris. These
pages: Sittings editor,
Tchesmeni Leonard. Hair:
Declan Sheils. Makeup: Neil
Young. On-set producer:
Joseph Beattie. Locations:
Pak’s Wig World, Spice
Shop, Iris Avenue.
 JUST BEHIND OXFORD STREET—
London’s shopping district—is a
family-run deli with vintage Formica
tables and a retro vibe. There is pre-
cisely zero pretense at Paul Rothe &
Son, the 122-year-old sandwich shop
where actor Charithra Chandran,
who appears in the second season
of Netflix’s Bridgerton (which pre-
mieres March 25), has suggested we
meet. “It is a London institution,” she
emails before our interview, and a
girl’s gotta eat. “I love sandwiches.
They have, like, 100 different mus-
tards. I love mustard.”
Chandran is a first-generation
British South Indian and we’re here to
talk about her London. But first things
first: “I’m feeling Coronation Chicken
today,” she says. That’s a British filling
created for Queen Elizabeth II, and
it’s a curious mix that includes roast
chicken, mayonnaise, apricot jam,
and curry powder. It tastes much
nicer than it sounds. Then Chandran
politely addresses the dilemma of so
many first meetings these days: “Are
we hugging?” (We are.)
Over a cup of English breakfast
tea and a cacophony of “White or
brown bread, mate?,” Chandran tells
me about the unexpected turn her life
took over the last year and change.
After studying philosophy, politics,
and economics at Oxford, she was
set for a corporate career. Instead,
she pursued acting, which had been a
hobby, studying at London’s National
86
Youth Theatre. After a raft of auditions,
she was cast in Amazon’s spy thriller
Alex Rider, and then as Bridgerton’s
Edwina Sharma. “It’s really key to
me that [Asian women] aren’t just
supporting characters and vehicles for
other people’s stories; we have stories WIGGING OUT. “Credit where
credit is due, Black women
of our own,” says Chandran. “It’s been
have been wearing wigs and
such an honor [playing Edwina].” creating these beautiful
One story that’s inescapable here hairstyles for years,” says
is the legacy of colonial rule: Though Chandran. “My love for wigs is
c o l o r i s m ex i s t e d b e fo re B r i t a i n very new and it was mainly
colonized India in 1858 (until 1947), brought on by [wearing them
in] Bridgerton. I need to keep
colonialization amplified it. And, more my hair pretty standard for my
than half a century later, it’s something career, and wigs [like the ones
Chandran has personally experienced. at Pak’s Wig World, below] are
“All my life I grew up with people such a fun way to experience
telling me that I would be pretty if I was different looks and have fun
with your identity. [Growing
lighter-skinned. I remember [someone]
up,] I wasn’t allowed to dye
said to my grandma, who is quite light- my hair or to have extreme
skinned, ‘Your granddaughter’s cute. haircuts, so now I fear
Shame she didn’t take after you.’ She committing to anything.
meant my skin color.” Chandran recalls But I desperately want a wig
trying to wash the color off of her hands [that looks] like Tokyo’s hair
from Money Heist [a dark
when she was younger, until something
brown bob].”
“I STILL USE COCONUT
OIL IN MY HAIR ONCE
A WEEK, USUALLY
SUNDAYS.”

started to shift: “When I was 16, seeing
people like Mindy Kaling have her own
show and Lupita Nyong’o at the Oscars
in her blue Prada gown, I just thought,
These people are beautiful.… Oh, my
God! I’m beautiful too. And I don’t need
to change anything about myself.”
Now, beauty is how Chandran stays
connected to her Indian heritage, inspired
by memories of visiting Tamil Nadu in
India. “My grandmother would sit me on
this little stool, put oil in my hair, plait it,
and then buy fresh jasmine flowers to put
in it,” she says. “I still use coconut oil in
my hair once a week, usually Sundays.”
It’s her body moisturizer too. And instead
of perfume, Chandran’s ultimate scent is
sandalwood soap.
“Obviously, [Britain] has a lot of issues,
and I don’t want to take away from that,”
she says. “But it’s also a multicultural
success story. [When I was younger,] my
friends would be jealous of my skin color
and I wouldn’t understand why. I think
part of being British is actually learning
to accept the skin I’m in.”
FOLLOW THE THREAD.
“I’m going to be dictatorial
about this: I don’t trust any
other way to do my
eyebrows,” says Chandran,
referring to threading (above,
at London’s Iris Avenue
salon). “Threading is just so
clean and your eyebrows
look so neat. I used to go with
my mum to her eyebrow
place. I was 11 or 12 my first
time and was so scared that I
said, ‘Mummy, please hold
my hand,’ and I would just
grip her. But it’s not that
painful. If you’re going to
thread, always do it at least
24 hours before an event
because it will be swollen.
Wait at least one sleep.”
SPICE OF LIFE. “Food is the
center of society, right? It’s
how you connect with other
people and learn about
parts of the world, which is
why I visit small businesses
[like the Spice Shop, left],”
says Chandran. “[They sell]
rose water, which my mum
has always used. It’s better
than any kind of micellar
water to take makeup off
and just so cleansing.
Turmeric has spiritual
meaning too and is
supposed to ward off evil
spirits to protect you.
Literally, every day of my life
growing up, I had turmeric
on my skin. I still make my
own masks and scrubs
with [traditional Indian
ingredients like] turmeric,
yogurt, and chickpea flour.
Why spend so much money
[on beauty products] when
you have these natural,
amazing ingredients in
your pantry?”
Chandran’s own top, skirt,
and boots.
 1979
FLASHBACK

With her global music

career beginning to
blossom, Jones greeted
fans at the Electric
Circus nightclub in New
York City, April 25, 1979.

Grace Notes
JACK VARTOOGIAN/GETTY IMAGES

NEW YORK CITY didn’t know what
to do with Grace Jones in 1975.
Her androgyny, her fierce beauty,
her regal Blackness: None of it
fit into the era’s typecasting. So
the Jamaica-born model made a
beeline for Paris, where her career
took off. She began modeling for
Yves Saint Laurent and Kenzo and
soon became a phenomenon—as
a musician, an actor, and a beauty
innovator. When Jones got a
flattop—an impromptu
middle-of-the-night cut by her
neighbor, famed hairstylist
Christiaan—women and men
around the world followed suit.
When she brushed metallic pinks
and purples over her cheekbones,
Technicolor highlighter became a
trend years before highlighter was
even a makeup category. Jones
raised nonconformity to an art form,
blazing a trail for many to follow.
Her stated philosophy is simple:
“I’m not fashion, I’m style.”
—ELIZABETH SIEGEL

88 ALLURE APRIL 2022

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