IMPORTANT TOPICS OF PATTERN MAKING:

UNIT-2:
Methods of Garment designing
Different methods of developing a Garment design- Drafting, pattern making, draping (in brief)
their advantages and disadvantages. Preparation of basic blocks for front, back, sleeve, skirt for
children and adult, adult bodice block, trousers and skirts

Use of software like CLO3D, Tuka3D, Accumarketc for design of Apparel. Study and use of Artificial
Intelligence techniques to understand and incorporate customer preferences such as styles, colours,
patterns etc. in clothesdesign

Methods of Garment designing

Different methods of developing a Garment design?

The development of a garment comprises of different

processes.

 Fit is the most important factor leading to the final

acceptance or rejection of a garment.
 Fit must be designed into the original pattern through
subtleties in the pattern that provide fullness unobtrusively
at appropriate locations to accommodate body bulges in a
flattering manner
 Good customized fit is dependent on the pattern
drafting incorporating various shapes and proportions of
the individual customer. 
 With the onset of the Industrial Revolution, standardized
patterns were essential to the success of ready-to-wear
clothing.

There are three methods of developing a Garment designing:

 Drafting,
 Draping
 Flat pattern making,
Drafting:
It involves measurements derived from sizing systems or
accurate measurements taken on a person, dress or body form.

 Measurements for chest, waist, hip and so on, and ease

allowances are marked on paper and construction lines
are drawn to complete the pattern.
 Drafting is used to create basic, foundation or design
patterns.

Draping:
It involves the draping of a two dimensional piece of fabric
around a form, conforming to its shape, creating a three-
dimensional fabric pattern.

 This muslin is transferred to paper to be used as a final

pattern.
 Ease allowances for movement are added to make the
garment comfortable to wear.
 Advantage of draping is that the designer can see the
overall design effect of the finished garment on the body
form before the garment piece is cut and sewn.
 However, it is more expensive and time consuming than
flat pattern making.

Flat Pattern Making:

It involves the development of a fitted basic pattern with comfort
ease to fit a person or body form. Pattern making is an art.
 It is the art of manipulating and shaping a flat piece of
fabric to conform to one or more curves of the human
figure .
 Pattern making is a bridge function between design and
production.
 A sketch can be turned into a garment via a pattern which
interprets the design in the form of the garment
components.
 A pattern is flat while the body is not.
 The body has height, width and depth.
 With in this roughly cylindrical framework there are a
series of secondary curves and bulges, which are of
concern to the pattern maker.
 Darts are the basis of all pattern making.
 They convert the flat piece of cloth into a three
dimensional form, which fits the bulges of the body.
 A patternmaker typically makes a pattern from a flat
sketch with measurements or a two dimensional fashion
illustration.
 The basic pattern is the very foundation upon which
pattern making, fit and design are based.
 The basic pattern is the starting point for flat pattern
designing.
 It is a simple pattern that fits the body with just enough
ease for movement and comfort.
 A sloper is the starting point for flat pattern designing.
 Five basic pattern pieces are used for women’s clothing.
 They include a snug-fitting bodice front and bodice back
with darts and a basic neckline, a sleeve and a fitted skirt
front and back with darts.
 However, as fashion changes frequently women’s styles
fluctuate frequently.
 These basic slopers are then manipulated to create
fashions.
 A basic sloper has no seam allowances, which facilitates
its manipulations to various styles.
  It has no design interest, only construction lines are
marked on it.
 It is necessary that the basic structure of a sloper should
be such that adjustments can be introduced easily.
 For a good pattern making, accurate measurements are of
utmost importance.
 The flat patternmaking method is widely used in
the ready-to-wear market because it is fast and accurate.

Advantages and Disadvantages of Drafting, Draping and Flat

Pattern Making

 Drafted Patterns Advantages:

1. A good pattern of the right size which has been adjusted to
suit your individual requirements will enable you to obtain a
good fit.
 2. A pattern prepared on thick paper or card board can be
preserved for a long time and can be used over and over again.
 3. By manipulating the basic pattern pieces it is possible to
produce patterns for complicated and original designs. (For
example, the basic sleeve can be adapted for a puff sleeve or
bell sleeve etc.)
 4. A paper pattern of a particular size can be used to make
new patterns of proportionately larger or smaller sizes by
following a systematic procedure called "grading".
5. Cutting with the help of a paper pattern is quicker and easier
than drafting straightaway on the fabric.
6. Use of a paper pattern will enable you to cut the garment
with a minimum amount of fabric because it is possible for you
to try out the placement of pattern pieces in different ways till
you have found the most economical way to keep them.

Disadvantages:
 a) It is time consuming process as it takes lot of time to draft
the pattern.
 b) Unless the techniques and principles of drafting is known it
is difficult for the persons to prepare paper pattern.
3. The paper pattern can be rarely used more than once unless
copied on a thick sheet.

Draping Advantages:
1. Varies styles can be tried over the model.
 2. Very simple to work once when the techniques is learnt.

 Disadvantages:
1. Required skin to drape
2. It requires a model
 3. It requires lot of fabric
 4. Laborious process
 5. Not economical as fabric consumption is more

FLAT PATTERN MAKING Advantages:

 Very useful to the beginner as it is a better method of learning

than cutting the material directly.

 Paper patterns can be preserved and used whenever required

and is therefore time and labour saving.

 Adjustment in paper patterns can be done to ensure perfect

fitting.

 A paper pattern of a specific size can be used to produce

patterns of other sizes by means of a grading process.

 Helps in designing layout and thus helps in using the material

in an economical manner
What is Pattern making?

• A pattern is a garment template made on a paper which is traced

on fabric before cutting.

• It is a blue print which guides the garment constructor for stitching

a well fitted garment.

• Fundamental step in garment construction.

• Highly skilled technique

IMPORTANCE OF PATTERN MAKING?

• Helps to convert 2-dimensional fabric into a well-fitted 3-
dimensional garment.

• Help in planning layout of all the pattern pieces in a garment

before cutting.

• Helps to save material and allows maximum fabric utilization by

accurate calculation of material.

• Patterns can be used again and again if the body measurements

remain the same with some alterations if required.

 Patterns can be graded to various sizes.

• Can be used for developing various design variations.

• Speed up the process of garment production due to planned layout

on fabric.

• It also help in mass production of same styles in various sizes and

colours.

METHODS OF PATTERN MAKING

1. Drafting

2. Draping

3. Flat pattern making

All the three methods are based on body measurements plus ease.
Ease is the extra allowance added to the body measurements to
allow for basic body movements.

DRAFTING

A system of pattern making that depends on measurements taken

from a form or model to create basic sloper, master or foundation
block.

DRAFTING Consists of seven pattern pieces:

i. Front bodice,

ii. Back bodice,

iii. Skirt front,

iv. Skirt back,

v. Trouser front,

vi. Trouser back

vii. Sleeve block

These basic drafts should only have –

• Minimum number of structural lines (darts and seams),

• Little or no information,

• No seam allowances and

• It should fit the body comfortably without being tight or loose.

IMPORTANCE OF DRAFTING
• Ensures proper fitting

• Preceding process for making paper patterns

• Drafts can be used again and again and thus saves time and effort

• Effective , economical and easy method

MAKING OF A DRAFT
1. Have all the tools needed ready before starting.

2. Ensure you have the correct measurements.

3. Use a large table or a board for drafting.

4. While drafting on a paper use the paper in the vertical direction.

5. Pin the paper on the drafting board using drafting pins.

6. Leave a margin of 1" on all sides while drafting on a paper.

7. First of all, draw the 'base line' along the longer side of the paper

8. Draw the other base lines perpendicular to the base line. These
lines are the 'top line' and the 'bottom line’.

9. Mark all lengthwise measures like shoulder to chest, shoulder to

waist, shoulder to hips, depth of neck, etc. along the lengthwise line.

10. On the basis of these marks, mark out the widthwise measures
like width of neck, across shoulders, etc.

11. Shape the armhole, neck line, etc. with the help of the French
curve.
DRAPING

In this method, by the skilful use of hands, a two dimensional fabric

is draped or shaped around a dress form or a human body to create
a three-dimensional garment prototype.

 Draping is a creative approach to pattern design.

• Oldest method of pattern making

• The fabric pattern developed after draping is then transferred on to

the paper, corrections are made if any and then the same is
converted into final pattern after testing its fit.

IMPORTANCE & LIMITATIONS OF DRAPING

 Best suited method for asymmetrical designs.

• Gives good results for some special designs like cowls, pegged skirt
etc.

• Time consuming

• Requires skill and expertise

• Expensive as it involves the use of fabric

FLAT PAPER PATTERN MAKING

• Flat patterning is a two-dimensional system of pattern making that
is dependent on previously developed drafts.

• These blocks are traced to get a working pattern which are then
adapted or manipulated to develop various design variations known
as production patterns/commercial Pattern

 Unlike drafts, paper patterns contains all the detailed markings

like cutting and stitching lines, seam allowances etc.

 They also gives information on suitable fabrics, quantity of

material required, pattern layouts etc.

 These patterns explain the steps in using the pattern and are
mostly used by dress manufacturing companies.

MAKING A PAPER PATTERN

1. Keep the note book with measurements nearby for ready
reference.

2. The working pattern should be of the actual size of the

garment to be made.

3. The drafting should be made on the smooth side of the

paper.

4. While making a pattern keep allowances for seams, turning,

in-lays, etc.

5. Mark the darts, gather, turning, etc. on the pattern.

6. Mark the pockets, buttons and buttonholes and the pattern.

7. Check all curves on the pattern before cutting.

 8. Develop a pattern for only half of a portion which has two
identical sides like half of front or half of back. etc.

9. Make the larger parts on the pattern first and then make the
smaller parts.

10. While making a pattern note down the all the

measurements and on the largest part of the pattern.

11. Mark all the required information on pattern pieces

What are Blocks or Slopers?

A Block, also called a Sloper is the Master or Foundation
Pattern that is used to make other patterns and other blocks.

A full set of basic Blocks usually consists of: Bodice Front &

Back, Sleeve and Skirt Front & Back.  Using these blocks while
applying the principles of patternmaking allows you to make
sewing patterns.

From these basic blocks you can also make derivative blocks,
such as Sleeveless, Torso, Extended Line Dress, and others.

You can also create other blocks from scratch, such as an

Overgarment Block, Jacket Block, or Jeans Block.

Patternmakers in the Fashion Industry use these blocks to

make patterns for their clothing line; their particular blocks will
be made for their target audience; e.g. if that fashion line
makes clothing for curvier figures, their blocks will be different
to another fashion house that makes clothing for a less curvy
shape. 

The measurements used to make blocks will therefore vary

from fashion line to fashion line, but they get their
measurements in some way or other from anthropometric
data.  

Given the difficulty of making clothing to suit a wide range of

figures and measurements, even within a specialised target
audience, many people have fitting issues with ready-to-made
clothing, even in clothing that is targeted to their body type.

If you make a personalised block to fit your individual figure,

clothing made from that block will be a better fit than clothing
made from a standard block, especially if you vary from the
standard in a large way and/or in a number of ways.
What are Blocks Made Of?  How do you store
them?
Blocks are made of Patternmaking Cardboard, which is also
called Patternmaking Paper.

 Patternmaking cardboard comes in sheets or rolls. 

 The sheets come in a smaller size - e.g. 120cm x 74 cm or

114cm x 76cm, and larger sheets, - e.g.  240cm x 148cm.

 The rolls come in 100 metre lengths, either 1.2m or 1.5m

wide. 

 The weight of this cardboard is about 225gsm;  it needs to

be thick enough to trace around onto paper to make a
pattern, and it needs to be thick enough hold it's form so
that it can be stored hanging up. 

 For the home patternmaker, the sheets are obviously the

more useful option. 

 You usually punch a large hole (e.g. around 2cm | .75in

diameter) into the block and use a Pattern Hook to hang it
up and store it.  You can store a lot of Blocks on one
Pattern Hook.
Why use Blocks?
Using Blocks means you don't have to create every pattern
from scratch.

 The Basic Blocks have no design features other than what

is required for fitting. 

 This means it has only minimum ease - called wearing

ease, and the only features are darts required for shaping
the garment to the body.

 Extra ease (design ease) and features are added when

creating patterns from the block.

Block or SLOPER
A simple master pattern that is used to make more detailed
patterns.
  Blocks generally have no design features other than what
is required for fitting.

 A Block is usually made from a thin cardboard, not paper,

so that the patternmaker can trace around it to create
patterns. 

 The term Block is more commonly used in Australia and

the UK, while the term Sloper is used in the United
States.

Preparation of basic block of Bodice?

The Basic Bodice Block

The Front of a basic Bodice Block usually has two darts. 

 You can create a one-dart block, but usually only because

it is easier to create the initial block that way; once made,
you would then create a two-dart block from that, and use
the two-dart block to create patterns. 

 Having only one dart in a bodice block (unless you have a

very small bust), creates distortion. 

 The bigger the bust cup, the bigger the distortion.

 In the blocks used, the two dart block has the darts in
the waist and the side seam (other blocks can have them
in the waist and shoulder).

 When making patterns from these blocks you can  - by

using the principles of patternmaking - move these darts
to other locations (e.g. move a side seam dart into the
shoulder or the armhole), change the dart/s to gathers or
tucks, or remove them by making a Princess Line design.

 You use the block,  while applying the principles of

patternmaking, to create a pattern.

 IMAGE 1: BODICE BLOCKS

 An example of a Bodice Block set:  Front and Back. 

 This Front Bodice has darts in the side seam and waist,
but other Bodice Blocks may have the darts in the
shoulder seam and waist, or a single dart in the waist.
 

Using Blocks to Make Patterns AND Other Blocks

Once you have created Close Fitting Bodice Block, you can use
that block to create patterns for blouses, shirts, tops, and the
bodice part of dresses, etc.

Once you have created a Straight Skirt Block with two darts,
you can use that to create patterns for a six-gore skirt, and
eight-gore skirt, a yoked skirt, or an A-Line skirt.

If you make a lot of A-line dresses, you could make yourself an

A-Line Block from your Straight Skirt Block, to save that bit of
extra work each time you make a pattern for an A-line dress.
You can use the Close Fitting Bodice Block to create a
Sleeveless Block;  As lowering necklines and armholes require
certain adjustments when the making the pattern, it is easier to
have all of these adjustments marked on a Sleeveless Block to
save having to redo those steps each time you make a
sleeveless pattern.

A block is a template that saves you from having to recreate the

basics in that template each time you make a design.
Preparation of basic block of Sleeve?
IMAGE 2: SLEEVE BLOCK

An Example of a Sleeve Block.

This is a Fitted Sleeve Block as it has a dart in the elbow.

Other  Sleeve Block options include the two-piece Sleeve
Block, which has a seamline under the arm, and the basic
Sleeve Block with no dart/curve at the elbow.

Preparation of Seven sets of basic block

 The Basic Block or Sloper Set consists of seven pieces:

Bodice Front, Bodice Back, Sleeve, Skirt Front, Skirt Back,
Pants Front and Pants Back. 

 See the images below an example of each of these.

Examples
IMAGE 1: BODICE BLOCKS

An example of a Bodice Block set:  Front and Back. 

This Front Bodice has darts in the side seam and waist, but
other Bodice Blocks may have the darts in the shoulder seam
and waist, or a single dart in the waist.

IMAGE 2: SLEEVE BLOCK

An Example of a Sleeve Block.

This is a Fitted Sleeve Block as it has a dart in the elbow.

Other  Sleeve Block options include the two-piece Sleeve
Block, which has a seamline under the arm, and the basic
Sleeve Block with no dart/curve at the elbow.
IMAGE 3: SKIRT BLOCKS

An example of a Skirt Block set: Front & Back.

This Skirt Block as two darts in the front and two darts in the
back.  Other Skirt Blocks may have one dart in the front and the
back, or two in the back and one in the front.
IMAGE 4: PANTS BLOCKS

An example of a Pants Block set: Front and Back.

These Pants Blocks have two darts in the back and one in the
front.  Other Pants Blocks may have two darts in both the front
and the back.  The shape of the leg may also differ.
Other Blocks
You can have many more Blocks such as Jeans, Torso,
Extended Line Dress, Jacket, Overgarment, Shirt., etc.  Some
blocks are made from scratch (examples are the basic blocks:
Bodice, Sleeve, Skirt), others are made from an existing Block.

What is the Difference Between a Block and a Pattern?

 A Block is a Master Pattern, usually made of a thick

cardboard, which you use (by tracing around or marking
through with a pinwheel) to make the pattern on thin
paper,  which is then cut out and pinned to
fabric. Whereas, pattern is a finished design ready for
cutting out and sewing. 

 As blocks are made from cardboard, it is easy to trace

around them. You usually make design-line markings on
 the blocks which you then transfer to the paper pattern,
and you can also refer to those design lines on the block
when making future patterns with that same Block. Blocks
are usually stored by hanging them on a pattern hook,
they aren't folded up like paper patterns. 

The image below shows a set of Blocks, the whole block set is
hanging up on two pattern hooks.  All the Blocks in this set are
Women's Size 10 and consists of the following pieces:  (Bodice
+ corresponding Sleeve), (Blouse + Sleeve), Skirt, Pants,
Jeans,  (Extended Line Dress + Sleeve), (Jacket + Sleeve).
In a Nutshell
If it's made of cardboard, and you use it as a Master to make
other patterns, it's a block.  If it's made of tissue or other paper,
meant to be placed onto fabric for cutting out, it's a pattern.
 CONTENTS OF A PAPER PATTERN
A pattern contains the following information:

• Written Information

• Markings and Symbols

INFORMATION ON A PAPER PATTERN

• Name of the garment

• Name of the pattern piece

• Size

• No. of pieces to be cut

• Style no./Code no.

• Cutting line

• Stitching line

• Fold line

 Construction details – like darts, pleats, gathers, pockets etc.

 Notches - Marks that are needed to help assemble garment

sections correctly.

 Instructions for speciality fabrics like directional prints.

 Sometimes, pattern can also suggest and explain the steps in

preparing the garment like marking, cutting and stitching the
garment.
PATTERN SYMBOLS:
How to draft the Basic Bodice Pattern and sleeve pattern

The Measurements Needed

These are the measurements you will need to draft the basic bodice pattern. As a reference use
the industrial size M. The horizontal measurements here are already divided in half.
Basic Bodice pattern: starting point
Let’s start the pattern by drafting this rectangle here.

The height is your back waist/nape to waist length+ 2 cm.

The width is ½ bust circumference + 4 cm of ease. Instead of 4, you can also add just 2 cm of
ease to get a more fitted bodice, but it’s easy to modify the pattern afterwards, too. I’ll keep both
alternatives throughout the tutorial in any case.
Separate the little rectangle at the upper right corner.
The height is 2cm.

For the width, choose your measurement among these:

 Size XS: 6,5cm

 S: 7cm
 M: 7cm
 L: 7,5cm
 XL: 8cm
Then draw the horizontal line in the middle using your armscye depth -measurement + 1,5 cm of
ease. If you chose 2 cm of ease earlier, 0,7 cm here is enough. This will be the underarm line.

So for this example: 20cm+1,5cm = 21,5cm.

Mark the side seam position along the underarm line calculating ½ bust circumference /2 + 1,5
cm of ease from the right. (For the smaller amount of ease, add just 0,5 cm here.)

Using the reference measurements, the calculation would be: 46cm /2 =23cm + 1,5cm= 24,5cm.

You can also see 2 vertical lines on both sides. For the back side calculate ½ back width + 1,5 cm
(or 0,7 cm) of ease.

For example 18cm +1,5cm = 19,5cm.

When it comes to the front side we also need to add 2 cm because of the bust dart. There’s an
asterisk as this value depends on your bust dart width. But more on that later.

So ½ chest width + 2cm + 1,5cm (0,7 cm) of ease: 17cm +2cm +1,5cm = 20,5cm.

Bodice Pattern: Back piece

Now that we have the first part drafted, we can start filling in the details. The back-side first. I
added numbers so it’s easier to understand which area I’m talking about.
Neckline, Shoulder slope, Armscye, Hipline
1. Draw the neckline. At least the first 3cm from the c.back should be a completely straight line
and then you can curve.

2. Measure 4,5cm from the top and draw a short parallel line. This will be the guideline for the
shoulder slope. Then calculate your shoulder width + 1,5cm for the dart and draw a line starting
from the base of neck and ending on the guideline you drew earlier.

3. Add a dart in the middle of the shoulder line. The length is 8 cm and width 1,5 cm.

4. To draft the armscye, first measure 5 cm upwards from the underarm line (=point A) And then
mark point B in the middle of the shoulder tip and point A. These are your guide marks for the
armscye and at the same time will be useful tacks later for a sleeve.

The armscye line should touch the point B, but stay a couple of mm outside of point A. Don’t
curve too much.

5. At this point we can also add the hipline. So check your measurement chart for the distance
between waist and hip.

Waist and Hip

Next up, the lower part of the back piece. Here you see some variation in the dart width and
amount of ease. The idea is that you must balance the numbers depending on your own
measurements.

If you don’t have much difference between your bust- and waist measurement, the dart needs to
be smaller. Otherwise your side seam doesn’t have any curve. If needed, you could even reduce
the amount of ease a bit.

On the other hand, if you have a really small waist or large bust, the side seam curve could be too
steep unless you increase the dart width. You could even take in the back seam at the waistline.
1. Mark the side seam along the waistline calculating ½ waist circumference /2 + dart width +
1,5cm (0,5cm) ease.

For this example I chose 2,5cm dart. So the calculation would be: 37cm /2 = 18,5cm + 2,5cm +
1,5cm = 22,5cm.
2. To find the location for the dart, first measure the center point between the side- and back
seam at the waistline, and then move 1 cm towards the backseam. We already talked about the
dart width, but as for the length, the dart ends 2 cm below the underarm line and 1 cm above the
hipline.

3. Mark the side seam along the hipline calculating ½ hip circumference /2 + 1-1,5cm of ease
(0,5cm for a more fitted bodice). Here again, you can adjust the amount of ease depending on
your measurements.

For example 48cm / 2= 24cm + 1,5cm = 25,5cm.

Finally draw the side seam with the help of the two reference points, adding some curve to the
waist and hip without exaggerating.

Bodice Pattern: Front piece

Now that the back piece is ready we can draft the front piece.
Neckline, Bust Dart

1. Starting from the neckline. You can get the A-B distance from the back piece. Remember the
little rectangle you drafted in the beginning..? The front neckline width is the same.

Add 1 cm to that to get the missing measurement from point A downwards. Now you can draw
the front neckline.
2. Then we can tackle the bust dart. First mark point C. You can get the B-C measurement, too,
from the back piece: it’s the distance between the base of neck and the little dart. The idea here
is to have the two darts (front and back) match at the shoulder line.

Measure the bust level from point A downwards. Mark it at the c. front and then measure ½
distance between bustpoints to get the starting point for the bust dart. Unite it with point C.

Measure 7,5 cm from bust point upwards along the dart leg, then 2 cm* in a 90 degree angle and
mark the point.

* Depending on the difference between bust- and above the bust -measurements. If there is very
little difference, you can reduce the value a couple of millimeters. In the opposite case, you might
want to increase. The maximum amount I’ve ever had to increase has been 5 mm.

Draw the other dart leg from the bust point, passing through the previous guide mark.

3. Measure 6,5 cm downwards from the top and draw a short parallel line.
Shoulder slope, Armscye, Waist, Hip

1. Close the bust dart by cutting open the little bit between c.front and bust point as in the
picture.

Draw the shoulder slope with the dart closed using your shoulder width -measurement. It ends at
the horizontal line you drafted previously. Then open the dart again and tape the bit you cut
open.
2. To draw the armscye, let’s first add a guide mark 5 cm upwards from the underarm line. The
front armscye line should touch this point. You can curve it more than the back armscye at the
underarm region. Make a nice continuous line from front to back.

3. Draw a line from the bust point all the way down.

Measure the front waist length from point A downwards and draw a horizontal line that crosses
with the one you just drew.

Measure ½ waist circumference + dart width + 2,5 cm (1,5 cm) ease to mark the side seam along
the waistline. Here the rules are the same as with the back piece: find the dart width that best
suits your measurements.

In my example 37cm /2 = 18,5cm + 3cm + 2,5cm = 24cm

The widest point of the waist dart should be at the front waist level. The dart starts 2 cm below
the bust point and ends at hipline.

4. Measure ½ hip circumference + 1-2,5 cm (1,5 cm) of ease depending on your measurements.

For example 48cm /2 = 24cm + 2,5cm = 26,5cm.

Finally, draw the side seam respecting the two reference points and curving the line slightly at the
waist and hip.

The Basic Bodice Block is Ready

Here is the end result using the size M measurements. Bare in mind that these are so called ideal
measurements, so don’t worry if your pattern looks different.
Bodice Sleeve Pattern
The bodice will also need a sleeve that goes with it. We’ll get most of the measurements directly
from the bodice.

Other measurements: the total sleeve length and the elbow level. It’s also good to have the upper
arm circumference.
Here’s a picture of the bodice with the areas to measure.
The Sleeve Cap
1. Start the pattern by drawing these 3 horizontal lines. The first two are 5 cm apart from each
other. To draw the uppermost line, measure the distance between the underarm line and the
shoulder tip of your bodice back (1) with a straight line. *Detract the following cm (=x) from the
measurement :
 Size XS: 3,5 cm
 S: 3,5 cm
 M: 3,5 cm
 L: 4 cm
 XL: 4cm
For example, my bodice size is M, so I’d detract 3,5 cm.

2. Then mark the starting point for the sleeve cap along the future bicep line. Measure the bit 2A
from the bodice and add 1 cm. From that point, draw a vertical line straight up to the second
horizontal line.
The next measurement is that between the armhole notch and the shoulder point of the bodice
front (3), measured in a straight line. Add 1 cm of ease.

Draw a slanted line using this measurement ending on the uppermost guideline.

Then do the same with the bodice back (4). This time the line goes in the other direction and
ends on the second guideline.

Draw a vertical line straight down from that point. Then measure the bit 2B from the bodice and
mark the end point of the sleeve along the bicep line.

3. Now we have this house-shaped sleeve cap. Mark the middle point along the two slanted lines
(=reference points). Then draw your sleeve cap as in the picture.
The front armhole line should start with a more pronounced curve on the bicep line.

Use the reference points to shape the upper part of the sleeve cap; at these points, the curve
should be at its maximum, about 1,5-2cm away from the slanted line. The front side is usually
more round than the back side.

Notice where I placed the sleeve armhole notches: 5 cm above the bicep line, just like the bodice
has its armhole notches 5 cm above the underarm line.

Sleeve Cap -check

Compare the measurements of the sleeve cap and the armscye lines of the bodice, on both sides
of the armhole notches. The basic sleeve has about 10% of ease between the cap notch and the
armhole notch, both front and back. Meaning the sleeve cap is bigger than the armhole of the
bodice.

So measure the armscye line length of the bodice between the armhole notch and the shoulder
tip, and add 10% to get the measurement needed for the sleeve cap. For example if the
measurement is 13cm, the ease would be 1,3cm and as a result, the sleeve cap should measure
14,3cm.

If you’re not happy with the measurements, try to adjust the sleeve cap shape. You can modify
the cap width and -height. And also move the cap notch a bit to left or right if you need to
distribute the ease.

The remaining part of the sleeve cap, after the armhole notch, should have the same
measurement as the bodice. You can adjust the sleeve size if needed.

Finally, measure the bicep line length and compare it to your upper arm circumference to see if
the sleeve will be wide enough at that point.

Rest of the Sleeve

When you’ve controlled and adjusted the sleeve cap, mark the middle of the bicep line and draw
a line straight down from that point. This will be the grainline of your sleeve pattern. It doesn’t
always coincide with the cap notch btw.
Measure the total length of your sleeve starting from the top of the sleeve cap and choose the
hemline width. It could be for example 26 cm. So divide 13 cm on both sides of the centre line.
Then draw the underseams and finally the elbow line.
Final Touches and Toile
Now you’re supposed to copy the pattern. Never cut the original. Check all the lines. They should
continue smoothly between the front- and back pieces. The waistlines should match. Close the
little shoulder dart at the back, re-draw the shoulderline and cut. Check that the two darts match
at the shoulderline.

Make a toile to check the fit so you can make corrections to your original pattern. Besides the
general fit all around, you will want to check for example the shoulder seam position and if you
managed to get the bust points right.

Check the fit of the sleeves: do they feel too tight, can you move your arms back and forth
without the fabric pulling? How’s the length?

Once you’re happy with the result, the basic bodice pattern is ready for use. Let me know if you
encountered problems and if there’s something that isn’t clear.