Installation and Removal of Interference Compressor Drive Coupling Hubs

Introduction

Ariel provides straight, keyless drive stubs on most models of compressors. The drive couplings are
provided by the packaging Distributor and are sourced from a variety of vendors. In all cases, the
coupling vendor’s recommendations for interference finish, fit and temperature to install and remove
must be followed.

High torque keyless drive couplings involve a shrink fit accomplished by machining the hub to a smaller
diameter than the mating shaft.  The coupling manufacturer, based on the material of the hub and torque
requirements determines the “fit”. The coupling hub is heated to expand the inner diameter to install it onto
the drive shaft.  As it cools, it shrinks in diameter, and a tight mechanical fit is accomplished.

Installation

Note: Always follow the coupling manufacturer’s recommendations for fit, finish of the hub inner diameter
and heating temperature.

1. Ensure the compressor drive stub and coupling hub inner diameter are clean, dry, and free of
imperfections
a. Measure the outer diameter of the drive stub and the inner diameter of the coupling to
ensure the correct interference fit
b. Fabricate and install a bracket for lifting and installing the hub.
i. Ensure the bracket will support the weight of the hub and hold it parallel with
the drive stub when suspended
c. Clean the shaft and hub diameter of any oil or lubricant of any kind.
2. Heat the compressor hub evenly using an induction heater or oven to the specified
temperature. Typically the temperature is 350⁰ to 400⁰F (177⁰ to 204⁰C) above ambient
temperature for steel hubs
a. Oven heating is preferred, but if oxyacetylene torches are used, use an oxygen acetylene
mixture. Mark the hub body at the top, center and bottom of their length in several
places with heat sensitive crayons, one 350˚F (177°C) and one 450˚F (232°C) melt
temperature. Elevate the hub with refractory bricks to allow the flame to flow through
the hub. Depending on the diameter, multiple Rose Bud torches are required to heat the
hub evenly. Direct the flame towards the hub bore using constant motion to avoid
overheating an area. Once the heat sensitive crayons melt, the hub is ready for
mounting. Regardless of method used, the heat MUST be applied evenly to avoid
distortion. This is especially important when using open flame heating.

Warning! Do not use an open flame in a combustible atmosphere or near combustible materials. In
any event, extreme care must be exercised when handling heated hubs to avoid injury to personnel.

Caution! Do not spot heat the hub or distortion may occur.

Caution! Do Not Exceed 600˚F (315˚C) During the Heating of the Hub. Excessive Heat may soften the
Hub, Reducing the Strength of the Steel and may affect the Performance Characteristics of the Hub.

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 3. Slide the coupling onto the compressor drive shaft until the hub is fully engaged. Typically, this
will require the hub to “bottom out” on the positive stop on the drive stub.

Removal

If the compressor drive hub requires removal, typically something has failed either the coupling or the
compressor crankshaft. In most cases, it is desirable to remove the hub in such a fashion that it can be
reused. Several methods have been used to successfully remove interference fit drive hubs.

Horizontal Removal

If space permits and the crankshaft does not need to be replaced, horizontal removal may be preferred.

1. Remove the center section of the coupling and disc packs from each side if applicable.
2. Measure the distance between the driver-coupling half and the compressor coupling half to
ensure there is enough clearance to slide the coupling half off the drive stub.
3. Attach a puller and lifting bracket to the compressor coupling half
4. Use at a minimum of 3 Rose Bud torches to quickly and evenly heat the compressor coupling
half

Warning! Do not use an open flame in a combustible atmosphere or near combustible materials. In
any event, extreme care must be exercised when handling heated hubs to avoid injury to personnel.

5. Hold tension on the puller and when the coupling half begins to move, slide it off the drive stub
quickly.

Vertical Removal

Vertical removal is the best practice and poses the least amount of risk of “sticking” the coupling half
before it is completely removed. If the crankshaft requires replacement, or if there is not enough
clearance to remove the compressor coupling half, this is the recommended method.

1. Remove the center section of the coupling and disc packs from each side if applicable.
2. Remove the cylinder head end heads
3. On most frames you can loosen the wiper packing glands on each throw and move them
outboard toward the cylinder
4. Remove the crankcase tie bars
5. Roll the unit over if possible to position the connecting rods for the cap removal
6. With the cap removed, push the entire connecting rod, crosshead and piston rod assembly
outboard until the connecting rod will sit on the bottom crosshead guide surface and not
interfere with the crankshaft removal.

Caution! Place a piece of cardboard or oil soak pad on the crosshead guide surface before sitting the
connecting rod down on the crosshead guide surface to avoid damage.

7. Repeat on all throws

8. Loosen and remove the drive end cover bolts and taper pins

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 9. Loosen and remove the auxiliary end drive chain(s)
10. Use tie wire to secure the drive end cover to the crankshaft
11. Use clean nylon lifting straps to lift the crankshaft and drive end cover evenly out of the frame
12. Set the crankshaft down on supports being careful not to damage the oil slinger on the
crankshaft or the seal and labyrinth in the drive end cover
13. Attach a clean nylon strap to the auxiliary end of the crankshaft and carefully lift it until it is
suspended vertically with clearance for the coupling half to be removed
14. Place some wood blocks or cribbing under the coupling half and heat to 350-400 degrees F.
quickly and evenly.
a. If open flame is used, three to four Rose Bud torches are required to get the half up to
temperature quickly and evenly.
15. When the interference fit is compromised due to the thermal growth, the coupling half will slide
off due to gravity.
a. In some cases, it may take a tap with a hammer to loosen the fit.

Be sure to replace the oil seal in the drive end cover before reassembly as the heat may damage the
seal. This way the drive end cover and coupling half can be reused.

REV1 4/21/20 DMcCoy