TUKA CAD &

ITS TOOLS
 TUKA CAD[INTRO]
 TUKA cad is the complete software and hardware solution for
computerized pattern making, grading and marker making on a
personal computer & can be operated on Microsoft Windows 95 and
upwards or Windows NT. TUKA cad has multi-tasking & Multi user
operation ability, built-in e-mail & Automatic data maintenance.
Also, it features
 Digitizing
 First Pattern Design
 Pattern Alterations
 Auto patterns
 Grading
 Style Definitions
 Printing reports
 Plot patterns
 Graded nests
 Full size markers
Various tools icons
 1] Standard tool bar
SELECT TOOL (END)
This is a default tool used in the Design Software . With this tool user can select
the pieces, segments, points, notches, darts, internal lines, buttons etc.

NEW (CTRL+N)
This tool is used to exit an open style file and start a new style file (.tud).

OPEN (CTRL+O) This tool is used to open an existing style (.tud) file. Click on the
tool and the Open Dialog Box displays

SAVE (CTRL + S) This tool is used to save the current opened file. To save the file
with a new name go to File Menu and choose SAVE AS......
PRINT

The print command is used to output the pieces to a printer

PLOT (CTRL+P)

The Plot command is used to send the pattern pieces displayed on screen directly
to a plotter /cutter or to a folder as a plot/cut file.

DIGITIZE

The DIGITIZE command is used to open the Digitizer Window and input data from an
attached Digitizer Board

EXCEL REPORT (SUMMARY REPORT)The SUMMARY REPORT command is used to

generate a Microsoft Excel spread sheet . All Style, Size , Piece and Internal
information can be exported to MS Excel as an xis file or attached as anew sheet to
an existing MS Excel file.

CUT (CTRL + X)

The CUT Tool is used to remove the selected piece(s) from the working area and
copy the date to the windows clipboard. The piece(s) can be pasted into another
Style (tud) file or other applications by clicking the PASTE TOOL
COPY (CTRL + C)

The COPY TOOL is used to copy the selected piece(s) from the working area onto the windows clipboard. The plece(s) can be pasted
into the same or another Style (tud) file, or other applications by clicking the PASTE TOOL. The copied pieces will have an
(UNDERSCORE) and number after the piece names.

PASTE (CTRL+V)

The PASTE TOOL is used to paste the last pattern(s) pieces out of copied to the windows clipboard into the current open style.

UNDO (CTRL+Z)

The UNDO tool is used to reverse the most recent action performed in the design file. Undo is unlimited.

REDO (CTRL+Y)

The REDO tool is used to forward any UNDO actions

ZOOM IN
The Zoom in tool is used to display a selected area in a maximized view. Click and Drag a window ever the desired area to zoom in

ZOOM OUT

The Zoom tool is used to zoom out the piece(s) on screen. Each click of the tool reduce the screen view by 10%.

ZOOM ALL (HOME)

The Zoom all tool is used to achieve the maximum possible view of all the pieces on the Working Area.

ZOOM REAL SCALE

The Zoom Real scale tool is used to display a selected piece in a real scale view .

CONTEXT HELP

This tool used to quickly jump to the text help chapter for a specific tool or menu item

VIDEO HELP

video help ios used quickly see a brief tutorial video for a specific tool /menu item .
 2] PIECE TOOL BAR

PIECE INFORMATION (CTRL+I)

The PIECE INFO tool is used to display or modify information for the selected piece. Information such as the
piece name, size, description, orientation and folding attributes can be defined and changed.

GLOBAL INFORMATION Piece Info modifies attributes only for each currently selected pattern piece: Global
Info modifies attributes for all pattern pieces, pieces on the working area, or selected pieces on the
working area.

REPLACE OLD The REPLACE OLD TOOL is used to replace the place in the place bar with the current
selected piece on the working area. This is a temporary save of the piece. Clicking the SAVE button will
update all pattern pieces and save to disk.

SAVEACTIVE AS NEW This TOOL is used to remove the piece from the working area and store
changes and also simultaneously create a copy of the original piece in the piece bar.

REMOVE ACTIVE The REMOVE ACTIVE TOOL is used to remove the selected place from the
working area and send it back to the piece bar without updating any changes to the piece.
SWITCH PIECES The SWITCH PIECE TOOL is used to toggle from the current modified piece in the
working area for the original piece in the piece bar.

SEPARAT USEPARATE (FO)The SEPARATE tool is used to keep the selected piece(s) on the working

SEAM The SEAM tool is used to add or strip away seam allowances to a pattern.

DELETE SEAM The DELETE SEAM Tool is used to delete the seam allowance from one piece, few
pieces, or all selected pieces.

REMOVE SEAM ALONG SEGMENT

The REMOVE SEAM tool is used to delete the seam from piece. specific line segment of a piece.

INTERNAL TO SEAM The INTERNAL TO SEAM tool is used to convert an internal line to a seam
contour. This tool is helpful when the file is imported from another CAD System such as a .dxf file
format and the seam line is converted as an internal contour. Note: the internal contour must be a
closed contour.

CUT SEAM ANGLE The CUT SEAM ANGLE tool is used to create a customized seam corner.

SET HALF The SET HALF tool is used to set mirrored or symmetric pieces as a half piece. This the
user more working space on the work area. Half pieces will Open when plotting and gives loading
into the Marker
 OPEN HALF
 The OPEN HALF tool is used to open a pre-defined HALF piece on the working area
and make the piece a whole piece. The piece will no longer by symmetric on both
sides.

DELETE HALF
The DELETE HALF tool is used to remove the HALF attribute and CUT the piece along the
Half line

SHOW/HIDE HALF
The SHOW/HIDE HALF tool is used to view and hide the pieces half side. When viewing
both halves the user can only work on the topside or active side of the piece and you
can see the changes on the bottom half. area and remove all other unselected pieces
back to the piece bar

MAKE RECTANGLE
The MAKE RECTANGLE command is used to create Rectangle Pieces. When drafting new
pieces you can start with this to make a Basic Block.

MAKE CIRCLE
The MAKE CIRCLE command is used to create Circle Pieces. Please define a minimum of
12 points when making a circle piece.

MAKE POLYGON
The MAKE POLYGON command is used to create a multi sided Polygon Piece.
 3] SEGMENT TOOL BAR

CREATE PARALLEL
The CREATE PARALLEL tool is used to create an internal segment parallel from a selected segment
along the external contour.
EXTEND PARALLEL
The EXTEND PARALLEL tool is used to extend a selected segment in parallel direction while
maintaining the angles of the segment. This will automatically extend or shrink the segment along
the angle of the end points. This differs from the MOVE PARALLEL TOOL CA in that the selected
segment will change length based on what angles are at the start and end points of the segment.

EXTEND CONTOUR
The EXTEND CONTOUR tool is used to extend an external contour as segment following any angles
on the curved line.

SMOOTH SEGMENT
The SMOOTH tool is used to make a crooked line smooth.

SWAP SEGMENT
The SWAP SEGMENT tool is used to swap an internal contour to become an external contour and
vice versa.
  4] INTERNAL TOOLBAR

SELECT INTERNALS
The SELECT INTERNALS tool is used to select multiple internals(buttons , internal
contours, etc. ) by window. All the internals in the window will be selected.

COPY INTERNALS
The COPY INTERNALS tool is used to copy and paste the internals in one piece to the
same or another piece on the working area.

NOTCH
The NOTCH TOOL is used to add a notch to a segment along the perimeter of the place. or
to an internal segment. The DEFAULT NOTCH SETTINGS are in the TOOLS
MENU.....OPTIONS....NOTCHES BUTTON.

BUTTON
The BUTTON tool is used to create drill holes in the piece or to mark a reference point.

MULTI BUTTONS
The MUTLI BUTTONS tool is used to add several buttons Into the piece by equal distance.
 CIRCLE

The CIRCLE TOOL is used to create an internal circle inside a piece.

CIRCLE TO CONTOUR

The CIRCLE TO CONTOUR tool is used convert an internal circle to an internal contour with points.

TEXT

The TEXT tool. s used to add text to a piece. It is also used to move the annotation of the " piece to a location
other than on top of the grain line.

JOIN CONTOURS

The JOIN CONTOURS tool is used to join two separate internal segments into one internal segment at a common
point..

EXTEND INTERNAL

The EXTEND INTERNAL tool is used to extend or shrink an internal segment in any direction by a specified value
or up to external contour of a piece.

OVIDE CONTOUR

The DIVIDE CONTOUR tool is used to divide an internal contour into multiple segments. This is the opposite
function of the JOIN CONTOURS Tool.

TRIM INTERNAL

The TRIM INTERNAL tool is used trim and clip overlapping internal lines.

GLOBAL SET INTERNAL PARAMETERS The GLOBAL SET INTERNAL PARAMETERS tool is used to change internal
element atributes for one piece, few pieces, or for all the pieces in a style.

For example: You wish to change all T-Notches to V-Notches for every piece in a style.
 5] DARTS/PLEATS TOOL BAR

ADD FULLNESS

The ADD FULLNESS Tool is used to slash and spread across a piece to add fullness in it.

MULTI MMULTIPLY FULLNESS

The MULTIPLY FULLNESS tool is used to Slash and Spread (Add Fullness) multiple times along a
selected segment.

DELETE FULLNESS (CTRL+DELETE)

The DELETE FULLNESS tool is used to remove fullness from 2 selected points

CREATE DART

The DART TOOL is used to insert a dart between 2 selected points on a segment of a piece.
MULTIPLY DARTS
The MULTIPLY DARTS command creates several darts on a selected segment at the same
time.

COPY DART
Use the COPY DART command to copy a selected Dart to the clipboard. Then use the Paste
Dart command to paste the copied Dart into the pattern piece at a point.

PASTE DART
Use the COPY DART command to copy a selected Dart to the clipboard. Then use the
PASTE DART command to paste the copied Dart into the pattern piece at a point.

CLOSE DART
The CLOSE DART command closes the selected dart(s).FIX DART When this tool is Active,
this means that the dart apex has been moved to a new location and must be fixed to
make the dart legs even in length.

PLEAT
The PLEAT tool is used to insert and open a pleat(s) inside the piece.

PLEAT LINES
The PLEAT LINES tool is used to first draw the pleat centerline without opening the pleat .
After the pleat line is drawn double click on the line with the SELECT TOOL(arrow)
 6] FABRIC/STRIPES

SHOW/HIDE GRADING (F4)

This button will toggle between showing the base size only and showing all sizes in the graded nest.

SHOW/HIDE SEAM (CTRL+F6)This button will show and hide the seam allowance lines on all pieces in the
style

SHOW/HIDE GRID

This button will toggle the grid display on and off.10

SHOW/HIDE STRIPE AND PLAID LINES

The SHOW/HIDE STRIPES tool is used to display horizontal vertical and diagonal the working area.

SHOW/HIDE GUIDE LINES

This command is used to show and hide guide lines on the working area. To guide line hold the CTRL KEY
and DRAG mouse from the top or left side of screen.

DLETE GUIDE LINES

This command will delete all guidelines placed into the working area.
SHOW FABRIC FULL SCREENSHOW FABRIC FULL SCREEN is used to show a selected
fabric pattern (IMAGE FILE) on the screen. The IMAGE displays on the entire
working area of the screen. Image files (.Bmp..Jpg..Tiff.ect) are loaded using the
Fabric Pattern Editor located in the FILE MENU.
7] EDIT TOOL BAR

ADD POINT
This ADD POINT tool is to add a point onto the perimeter of a piece or to an
internal contour

MOVE POINT
The MOVE POINT tool is used to move a single point in an X/Y Direction.

MOVE PROPORTIONAL The MOVE PROPORTIONAL tool is used to move a

segment proportionally between. two points.

MOVE PARALLEL
The MOVE PARALLEL tool moves a segment of a piece in an X/Y direction while
maintaining the original shape of the segment.
The MOVE
ALONG tool is used to move a point along the contour of the piece.

MOVE POINTS (UNEVEN)

The MOVE POINTS tool is used to move multiple points on a segment in an X/Y
direction for each selected point.

MULTI MOVE
The MULTI MOVE tool is used to move selected segments on one or more pieces in a
parallel direction. This requires you click and drag a window over the segments to
move.

ALIGN POINTS
The ALIGN POINTS TOOL command aligns a selected group of points horizontally.
vertically or by a specified angle.

SET POINT ANGLE

The SET ANGLE tool is used to define the angle at any corner of the two
intersecting lines. This is mainly used to get a 90-degree corner.

ROUND CORNER
The ROUND CORNER tool is used to create a curved intersection where two lines
intersect along the perimeter.
SET POINT (0,0)
The SET POINT (0,0) command is used to change the start measuring point for the
selected pattern piece in the working area. This will reset the rulers along the top
and left side of screen to 0.0. This is also called the home position on working
area for plotting.
START POINT
This START POINT command is used to define which grading point will become the
first point. This is also the point where the knife will plunge and begin cutting on
an automatic

8] ROTATE TOOL BAR

ROTATE
The ROTATE tool use to rotate piece, piece over the grain line or internals of a
piece.

ROTATE PIECE/CONTOUR
The ROTATE PIECE/CONTOUR tool is used to rotate a piece and/or an internal
segment. The pivot point is in center by default. To rotate around a point you must
first select the point with the SELECT TOOL and then click the ROTATE
PIECE/CONTOUR Tool.

ROTATE CW
The ROTATE CW tool is used to rotate the selected piece or pieces in the Clock
wise direction in 90 Degree increments.
ROTATE CCW
The ROTATE CCW tool is used to rotate the selected piece or pieces in the Counter Clockwise (Anti
Clockwise) direction in 90 Degree increments.

FLIP HORIZONTAL
This command flips the selected piece or pieces 180 degrees along the X axis (Left and Right on
Screen).

FLIP VERTICAL
This command flips the selected piece or pieces 180 degrees along the Y axis (Up and Down on
Screen).

FLIP ALONG
The FLIP ALONG tool used to flip a piece or internal along a selected segment.

ROTATE TO HORIZONTAL
The ROTATE TO HORIZONTAL tool is used to rotate a piece along a selected segment in a
horizontal direction. Note: Segment must be selected first!

ROTATE TO VERTICAL
The ROTATE TO VERTICAL tool is used to rotate a piece along vertical direction. Note: Segment
must be selected first!

GRAINLINE PARALLEL TO SEGMENT

The GRAINLINE PARALLEL TO SEGMENT tool is used to make the grain line parallel to a selected
segment
ROTATE TO GRAINLINE
The ROTATE TO GRAINLINE tool is used to rotate piece(s) so the grain line is horizontal on screen.

FIX GRAINLINE (RESET)

The FIX GRAINLINE tool is used to redraw the grain line to fit in the center of the piece.

9] TOOL KIT BAR

WALK (CTRL + W)
The WALK tool is used to walk two or more pieces along the sew lines together.

MEASURE (CTRL + M)
The MEASURE tool is used to measure distances between any two points. The points can be
vertical, horizontal or diagonal.

CUT
The CUT tool is used to cut a piece. The cut tool draws a line across the piece and splits the piece
along the line.

DRAFT
The DRAFT tool is used to draft internal lines. It can also be used to draft a new piece. To draft
curve points hold the SHIFT KEY while drafting the contour.14
CUT ALONG INTERNAL

The CUT ALONG INTERNAL tool is used to cut (split) a piece along an existing internal line. Note:
The end points of the internal contour must be touching the external contour!

MOVE PIECE (SPACEBAR)

The MOVE PIECE tool is used to move pieces around on the working area. To snap 2pieces together
at a common point click on the point of piece to move.

MOVE INTERNAL

The MOVE INTERNAL tool is used to move an internal segment, button, grain line, text, and circle.
To move by exact X/Y distance Press the ALT KEY after picking up the internal and the click to get
the dialog box.

TRACE SEGMENTS

The TRACE SEGMENT tool is used to trace the segments from an existing piece to create a new
piece. Trace the new piece by click in the middle of each segment and trace clockwise.

JOIN PIECES

The JOIN PIECE tool is used to join two different pieces together as one along a shared segment. If
the two pieces have the same length and angle, they are joined perfectly. If they do not have the
same length and angle, and if the line segments are not parallel, the pieces will join but their
junction is not perfect.

BUILD PIECE

The BUILD PIECE tool is used to create new pieces from 2 or more overlapping pieces or simply
from sections of a piece divided by internal contours.
FOLD IN
The FOLD IN tool is used to fold back a segment on the pattern as an internal
contour, or to check for symmetry on 2 sides of a piece.

FOLD OUT
The FOLD OUT tool is used to mirror an internal section of a piece along a mirror
line and Fold it out.
• Skirt
 Basic skirt

MEASUREMENTS
• Length-61cm
• R.waist-96
• R.hip-70

CONSTRUCTION LINE
• Waist to hip -20cm
• AA’=7cm
• AD’=1/4R.hip+1cm
• AD’1/4R.waist+5cm

DART
• BF=6-7cm.
• FF’10 to 12 cm
• Take mid pt. of F & B
and mark as H
• Width of darts =2.5 cm
each[total=5cm]
Measurements for seam
allowances of skirt

 Waist line- 1.5cm

 Side seam – 2.5cm
 Hem -4cm
Seam allowance of skirt
Summary report of skirt
Pattern card of skirt
Marker making of skirt
• Bodice
Adult Bodice Block

Measurement Construction lines

required  AB-length+2cm=39.5cm
 Length- 37.5cm  AC-1/2 across shoulder=17.5cm
 R.w- 65cm  AD-1/4 Round Bust -
1.2cm=20.5cm
 A.F- 30cm
 DE-1/4 Round
 A.shoulder- 35cm Bust+2.5cm=23.75cm
 Distance between point-17.5cm  AF=AG-1/12 Round bust=7.8cm
 A.back- 34cm  Cc’=2cm
 A.bust- 85cm  AJ-1/2 of AD =10.25cm
 Highest shoulder to bust point-  JK-1/2 Across front=15cm
25cm
 BL-1/2 Round
Waist+4cm=2o.25cm
Adult bodice block

Back Darts
 AB-37.5cm  EM=10cm
 DE-1/2 Round  Waist dart= for
bust=21.25cm front[4cm],for
back[2.5cm]
 BL-1/4 Round waist+
2.5cm=18.75 cm  Side seams dart= 2.5cm
 JK-1/2 Across back =  Arm- hole dart=2cm
17cm
Measurements for Seam
allowances of bodice

 Neck line – 0.7cm/0.28”

 Shoulder line – 1.5cm / 0.6”
 Arm hole – 0.7cm/0.28”
 Side seam – 3cm/ 1.2”
 Hem line – 1cm / 0.25”
 Center front – 1cm/0.25”
 Front Bodice

Block & Dart Seam allowance

 Back bodice

Block & dart Seam allowance

 Grading
 At center front waist level – Pt.A

X Y
XS 1.5cm 0
S 1.5cm 0
M 0 0
L -1.5cm 0
XL -1.5cm 0

 At pt B sweep level
X Y
S +1.5cm -1cm/1cm

 At pt. C Armpit level

X Y
XS 0 -1cm
0 -1cm
 At pt. D lowest shoulder level
X Y

S 0 -0.25cm

 At pt. E highest shoulder level

X Y

XS 0 -0.25cm

 At neck center front level

X Y

XS .25cm 0

 At dart
X Y
XS 1.5cm 0.25cm

 At acc. Pt. G
X Y

XS 0 -0.5cm
 Grading
Front Back
Summary report of bodice
Pattern card of bodice
Bodice marker
• Sleeve
 Sleeve

For arm hole

measurements curve
 At point – go down by
 Round bust-: 85cm 0.5cm
 Sleeve length -:15 cm  At point 2- remains the
 CONSTRUCTION LINES same
 AB – ½ R.B-7cm  At point 3- go up by 1cm
35.5cm,AB=CD  At point 4- go up by 1cm
 AC-length=15cm  At point 5- remains the
same
 At point 6- go down by
1.5 cm
Drafting of sleeve
Measurements for seam
allowances of sleeve
 Neck line – 0.7cm/0.28”
 Shoulder line – 1.5cm / 0.6”
 Arm hole – 0.7cm/0.28”
 Side seam – 3cm/ 1.2”
 Hem line – 1cm / 0.25”
 Center front – 1cm/0.25”
Sleeve with seam allowance
 Grading
 AT pt. A&E [round bottom level]
X Y

XS + 0.75 cm -0.5cm

 At pt. B&D [ bicep level]

X Y

XS 0 -1cm

 At pt. C[cap level]

X Y

XS -0.25cm 0
Sleeve with grading
Sleeve summary report
Sleeve Pattern card
Sleeve marker
• Trouser
 Measurements of trouser

Measurements Construction lines

required
 Length= 40inch[outside leg to
 Length=88.9 cm ankle]=100cm.
 Hip=83.82cm  Width= 1/4hip- 1cm or 0.4 inch] +
front crotch [1/120trouser hip+
 V.hip=27.94cm 0.5cm] = 29.5 cm= 12.6 inch
 Ankle length=  Ak= BL= outside length = 40inch or
 Knee length=60cm 100cm
 Waist=68.58 cm  AC = BD = upper hip length= 4 inch
or 10cm
 AE= BF = hip length = 8inch or 20cm
 AG=BH= crotch length= 11.6 inch or
29 cm
 AI= BJ = knee length = 24inch or
60cm
 Construction line

 BM = HN = ¼ hip – 1cm/0.4inch =  At knee level= for straight[ same

9.6 inch or 24cm knee]
 MO= NP= hip/10 = 10cm or 4 inch  Slim fit = ¼ round ankle – 1cm =
7.5 cm/ 3 inch
 MN’= 0.5cm
 At knee level = 12cm/ 4.8”, slim =
 MB= ¼ waist +4 cm/ 2cm wide 10.5 / 4.2” .
each[0.8 inch each]= 22.5cm/
9inch  For back
 For dart  Copy front
 OL= LB’ = by providing mid point
OB
 OO’ = OO’’ = LL’’ = 1cm / 0.4inch
 E’F = ¼ hip = 25cm / 10 inch
 DC’ = ¼ upper hip = 23.5 cm/ 9.4
inch
 E’F = ¼ hip = 25 cm/ 10
 Trouser [drafting ]
front back

Trouser’s components
Measurements for seam
allowances of trouser
 Hemline – 1.25cm
 Inner seam- 1.25 cm
 Outer seam – 2.5 cm
 Crotch line- 1cm
 Waist line- 1cm
 Trouser[ Seam allowances]

Ccomponents

Front Back
Summary
report
Pattern card
Trouser marker
J & D software
Write up
Thankyou

 SUBMITTED to- Ms. Shwetambri Sharma

 SUBMITTED by Ananya
 Gmt 3
 Roll no. 2022243