Brazilian Artisanal Cheeses: An Overview of their

Characteristics, Main Types and Regulatory

Aspects
Bruna A. Kamimura, Marciane Magnani , Winnie A. Luciano, Fernanda B. Campagnollo, Tatiana C. Pimentel,
Verônica O. Alvarenga, Beatriz O. Pelegrino, Adriano G. Cruz , and Anderson S. Sant’Ana

Abstract: A large variety of cheeses exist in Brazil, reflecting historical and cultural aspects. Brazilian artisanal cheeses
present differences in the processing, ripening time (when applied), type of milk used, texture, size, shape, color, moisture
content, flavor, the use or not of starter cultures, among others. This review describes the main artisanal cheeses produced
in Brazil, focusing on general and particular characteristics associated with their making process and geographical identity.
Overall, the high variability of the physicochemical data and deficiency of information on sensorial properties of Brazilian
artisanal cheeses were noticed. On the other hand, culture-dependent methods were mostly used to expand the knowledge
into the microbiology of these cheeses, whereas their microbial diversity has been recently discovered through the use of
16S rRNA gene sequencing-based methods. The certification of a geographical indication for Brazilian artisanal cheeses
may encompass an essential milestone for adding value to these products. Regardless of their significance in the diet,
culture, and economy of producing regions, taken together, the reviewed literature discloses the need of insightful studies
to generate scientific data to support the expansion of the market, while ensuring the protection of historic aspects related
to the production of Brazilian artisanal cheeses.
Keywords: artisanal foods, cheese ripening, dairy products, food composition, local foods, raw milk cheese

Introduction by the existence of a large number of small cheese makers, with

Cheese is a product obtained by partial or complete coagulation
of milk, cream, partly or fully skimmed milk protein, or a com-
bination of one or more of these ingredients, using a coagulating
agent (rennet, for instance) (American Cheese Society, 1978). A
large variety of cheeses exist worldwide, which can be catego-
rized based on several properties such as texture, milk employed
(type and if the milk was pasteurized or not) and the manufac-
turing specificities. Cheeses may also be classified based on their
origin, receiving the name of the producing region (“Protected
Designation of Origin”), which carries the influence of the local
environment on cheese properties, (Velčovská & Sadı́lek, 2015).
Brazilian cheeses reflect historical and cultural aspects, with pro-
duction and consumption reaching 766 and 786 thousand tons in
2016 (USDA, 2016). The cheese market in Brazil is characterized
CRF3-2019-0155 Submitted 6/13/2019, Accepted 7/12/2019. Authors
Kamimura, Campagnollo, Alvarenga, and Sant’Ana are with the Dept. of Food
Science, Faculty of Food Engineering, Univ. of Campinas, Campinas, SP, Brazil.
Authors Magnani and Luciano are with the Lab. of Microbial Processes in Foods,
Dept. of Food Engineering, Federal Univ. of Paraiba, João Pessoa, PB, Brazil. Author
Pimentel is with the Federal Inst. of Paraná, Campus Paranavaı́, Paranavaı́, PR,
Brazil. Authors Pelegrino and Cruz are with the Dept. of Food Technology, Faculty
of Veterinary, Fluminense Federal Univ., Niterói, RJ, Brazil. Author Cruz is also
with the Dept. of Food, Federal Inst. of Education, Science, and Technology of Rio de
Janeiro, 20270-021, Rio de Janeiro, RJ, Brazil. Direct inquiries to author Sant’Ana
(E-mail: and@unicamp.br).

C 2019 Institute of Food Technologists®
nearly 40% categorized as artisanal cheeses (SEBRAE, 2008). Ar-
tisanal cheeses are typically characterized by production in small
scale, using milk produced on the farm and following traditional
cheese-making techniques proper from each region (Cardoso &
Marin, 2017; Kamimura, De Filippis, Sant’Ana, & Ercolini, 2019;
Martins et al., 2015a).
Artisanal cheeses can be produced using raw or pasteurized milk,
even though when the former is employed a ripening period of,
at least 60 days, would be needed (Brazil, 1950). Nevertheless, the
Regulatory Instruction n. 30 of August 7, 2013 from the Ministry
of Agriculture, Livestock and Food Supply (MAPA) states that
the commercialization of artisanal cheeses ripened for less than 60
days is allowed if scientific and technical reports confirm that the
diminution of the ripening time does not compromise the quality
and safety of the products (Brazil, 2013). However, the previous
regulation (Brazil, 1950) caused difficulties for the commercial-
ization of artisanal cheeses out of the state of production due to
the obligation of the seal of the Federal Inspection Service, issued
only after an inspection by such federal body (Brazil, 1950). In
2018, a new regulation (Law n. 13.680 of June 14, 2018) allowed
the inspection of artisanal products by state public health bodies
and the replacement of the seal of the Federal Inspection Ser-
vice by the “ARTE” (artisanal) seal (Brazil, 2018). The changes
above mentioned can be considered vital for the maintenance of
the traditional aspects of Brazilian artisanal cheese production be-
cause several of these cheeses are ripened for a period shorter than

doi: 10.1111/1541-4337.12486 Vol. 0, 2019 r Comprehensive Reviews in Food Science and Food Safety 1
Brazilian artisanal cheeses . . .
60 days. Also, the commercialization of artisanal cheeses through-
out the country allows intensification of the link between the
product and popular culture, which is crucial for the preservation
of the heritage.
In Brazil, some artisanal cheeses receive the names of the region
or state of production given their historical connotation and high
economic relevance (Bemfeito, Rodrigues, Silva, & Abreu, 2016).
The main artisanal cheeses production sites in Brazil are situated
in the Southeast (specifically in the state of Minas Gerais, with
several producing microregions), North, Central, Northeast, and
South.
The state of Minas Gerais is known as the significant raw
cow’s milk cheesemaker in Brazil, which are traditionally ripened
at room temperature (Martins et al., 2015a; Oliveira et al.,
2017). The manufacture of artisanal cheeses in the state of Minas
Gerais is divided by producing microregions. The first artisanal
cheese-making regions were Araxá, Cerrado, Canastra, and Serro
(Arcuri, El Sheikha, Rychlik, Piro-Métayer, & Montet, 2013).
Then, in 2009, Campo das Vertentes region received an official
identification as Mina’s artisanal cheese producer, and in 2014,
Triângulo Mineiro and Serra do Salitre was also inserted as
producing regions (Agricultural Institute of Minas Gerais [IMA],
2009, 2014a, 2014b).
In the north region the artisanal cheese produced is Marajó
cheese, elaborated from raw buffalo’s milk in the Marajó Island,
home of the largest water buffalo herd in the country (Seixas,
Félix, Silva, Perrone, & Carvalho, 2015). In the Northeast region
of Brazil, two kinds of cheeses stand out: the curd cheese and
the butter cheese. Both are made with pasteurized milk, with
the former being a characteristic product from the Northeast of
Brazil, but currently popular and commercialized in other regions
of Brazil (Castro et al., 2016; Medeiros et al., 2016). Conversely,
butter cheese is highly consumed in the Northeast region (Nassu,
Lima, & De Andrade, 2009). Caipira cheese is another artisanal
cheese produced in the central region of Brazil, more specifically
in the state of Mato Grosso do Sul (Mato Grosso do Sul, 2004).
Finally, in the south of Brazil, Colonial and Serrano cheeses are
the main artisanal cheeses manufactured (Cruz & Menasche, 2014;
Wilkinson, Cerdan, & Dorigon, 2015).
Although Brazilian artisanal cheeses have tremendous histor-
ical and socioeconomic importance, no previous studies detail
technological aspects and microbiological, chemical, and sensory
attributes of these products. The characterization of these cheeses, milk skimming during the mass cooking process). Both types of
according to each producing region as well as their distinguishing
characteristics, may lead to the attainment of “Protected Designa-
tion of Origin.” Besides the characterization of the cheeses may
add value to these products, enhancing their appeal, marketing
potential (Bemfeito et al., 2016), while avoiding the illegal market tivity (0.99) resulting from the washing steps (Amarante, 2015,
(Cavicchioli, Camargo, Todorov, & Nero, 2017, Martins et al.,
2015a). Thus, this review aims to provide an overview of the
technological, microbiological, chemical, and sensory attributes
known until now of Brazilian artisanal cheeses. Furthermore, the
information summarized in this review may assist in identifying ar-
eas in which further studies are required towards strengthening the
quality and safety of Brazilian artisanal cheeses as well as supporting
the development of strategies for their certification of origin.
Brazilian Artisanal Cheeses and Their Producing
Regions
The central producing regions of artisanal cheeses are located
in the North, Northeast, Central, Southeast, and South regions of itive environment, normally hindering the growth of pathogens
Brazil, as shown in Figure 1. The state of Minas Gerais is considered (Seixas et al., 2014). Despite this, the occurrence of potentially
2 Comprehensive Reviews in Food Science and Food Safety r Vol. 0, 2019
the primary artisanal cheese maker in Brazil, encompassing the
producing microregions of Araxá, Campo das Vertentes, Canastra,
Cerrado, Triângulo Mineiro, Serra do Salitre and Serro (Figure 2).
Brazilian artisanal cheeses present differences in their process-
ing, ripening time (when applied), type of milk used, texture, size,
shape, color, moisture content, flavor, the use or not of starter
cultures, among others (Table 1). The main steps of processing
of the different types of Brazilian artisanal cheeses are presented
in Figure 3. It is essential to highlight that a distinguishing fea-
ture of cheese making in Brazil, particularly in the states of Minas
Gerais and Mato Grosso, is the use of “pingo,” a native ferment
obtained from the cheese production of the previous day at the
end of desorption (native whey starter). “Pingo” gives identity to
cheese in each region, reflecting the natural environmental settings
of the raw milk used in cheese-making. “Pingo” is responsible for
transferring the raw milk microbiota to cheeses, which directly in-
fluences the acidity, aroma, and flavor of the final products (Santos,
Lamounier, & Teixeira, 2017).
North region
Marajó cheese. Marajó cheese is an artisanal good from Marajó
Island, in the Pará state. Marajó cheese has been produced for
more than 100 years and represents the socioeconomic basis of
small farmers living in the Marajó Island. The primary production
of Marajó cheese is concentrated in the area of the cities of Soure,
Salvaterra, and Cachoeira do Arari (da Cruz, Dias, dos Santos
Souza, & do Santos, 2015).
Following the cultural tradition and historical aspects of the
region, Marajó cheese is produced by spontaneous coagulation
(no lactic culture added) of buffalo’s raw milk, added or not of
cow’s milk (at a maximum proportion of 40%). The production
includes the following steps: the skimmed milk is maintained in
open containers at a temperature around 28 °C during 24 h for
fermentation (Simões, Portal, Rabelo, & Ferreira, 2014). The ob-
tained curd is drained and washed with water, or milk (buffalo
or cow’s milk) for reduction of the acidity, followed by a new
draining and cooking (80 to 90 °C for 30 min) with addition of
salt and cream or butter (in quantities enough to be absorbed by
the curd mass) (Figure 3) [State Agency for Agricultural Defense
of Pará (ADEPARÁ, 2013)]. The obtained Marajó cheese is de-
nominated butter type (when added of butter during the mass
cooking process), or cream type (when added of cream from the
cheese should have a maximum of 40% total fat, 65% fat in dry
matter, 35% to 50% moisture, and 1% to 2% sodium chloride
(ADEPARÁ, 2013). Therefore, it is a nonripened cheese made
of raw buffalo’s milk, but a cooked mass with a high water ac-
Kamimura et al., 2019).
Because the curd coagulation during the manufacture of Marajó
cheese involves only autochthonous microorganisms found in the
raw milk and the processing premisses, this cheese presents a diver-
sified microbiota, which confers its unique sensory characteristics
(Figueiredo, de Andrade, Pires, Peña, & de Figueiredo, 2016).
Among the species identified as part of the microbiota of Marajó
cheese, the thermophilic lactic acid bacteria (LAB) are the most
abundant, with the dominance of homofermentative and cata-
lase negative coccus, such as Streptococcus, Lactococcus, Enterococcus
as well as several Lactobacillus species (Table 2) (Figueiredo et al.,
2016; Kamimura et al., 2019).
The diversified microbiota of Marajó cheeses creates a compet-

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Brazilian artisanal cheeses . . .
Figure 1–Map of artisanal cheese producing regions in Brazil.
pathogens in Marajó cheese, such as Staphylococcus aureus, may still
be explained by the employment of raw milk of poor quality or
due to postthermal processing contamination (Kamimura et al.,
2019; Seixas et al., 2014; Seixas et al., 2015).
Regarding the sensory characteristics, Marajó cheese has soft
and compact texture, semi-hard and slimy consistency, slightly
sour and salty taste, white-straw color and may have a cylindrical
or rectangular shape (Table 1) (ADEPARÁ, 2013). Butter-type
Marajó cheese is generally drier and greasier than the Marajó
cream type (Amarante, 2015). To protect the cultural and historical
aspects of Marajó cheese, the state of Pará Farming Protection
Agency released the Ordinance n. 418 of February 26, 2013,
processing, in which the identity and quality properties of this
cheese are detailed (ADEPARÁ, 2013).
Northeast region
Butter cheese (“Manteiga” cheese). Butter cheese is genuinely
Brazilian, primarily made and eaten in the Northeast region (Leite
et al., 2019). The production of butter cheese has been the leading
destination of the milk produced on distant farms in the coun-
tryside of several states of Brazilian Northeast. The manufacturing
technology of butter cheese is simple, empirical, and its processing
is handmade (de Medeiros et al., 2017). It is a cheese obtained
by milk coagulation using food grade organic acids (lactic, citric,
or acetic). The curd is drained, washed and melted with butter
(called “Manteiga de garrafa” ou “Manteiga da terra”). “Manteiga de
garrafa” ou “Manteiga da terra” is a typical Brazilian Northeast but-

C 2019 Institute of Food Technologists®
ter obtained from the heating of the cream from milk skimming
at boiling temperatures (100 °C), under agitation until com-
plete melting and water content reduction. Butter cheese making
process must include some steps as follow: acid milk coagulation,
partial whey drainage, curd washing with water or cow’s milk, salt-
ing and cooking with butter (85 °C for at least 15 min), molding
and packing (Figure 3) (Nassu et al., 2009). According to Brazilian
Legislation, the addition of another type of fat in butter cheese is
considered fraud (Brazil, 2001).
The Normative Instruction n. 30 of June 26, 2001, defines
that the butter cheese must have moisture content from 46% to
54.9% and a fat content in the dry matter varying from 25%
to 55% (Brazil, 2001). However, due to the deficiency in the
standardization of the procedure parameters, the butter cheese may
present considerable variation throughout the Northeast region
(Table 1) (Evangelista-Barreto, da França Santos, dos Santos Souza,
de Sousa Bernardes, & Silva, 2016). For instance, moisture ranging
from 39.8% to 54.5%, fat from 15.1% to 24.9%, fat in the dry
matter from 33.2% to 46.0%, protein from 22.6% to 24.3%, ash
from 1.8 to 2.7%, chlorides from 1.1% to 2.2%, water activity of
0.97 and pH from 5.5 to 6.1 were found in six different brands of
butter cheeses retailed in the city of Natal, Rio Grande do Norte
state (Nassu et al., 2009).
The Normative Instruction n. 30 of June 26, 2001 (Brazil,
2001) also describes the sensory characteristics of butter cheese.
This cheese is described as a soft cheese tending to unctuousness
properties, semi-friable texture, small mechanical holes containing
Vol. 0, 2019 r Comprehensive Reviews in Food Science and Food Safety 3
Brazilian artisanal cheeses . . .
Figure 2–Map of artisanal cheese producing microregions in Minas Gerais state, Brazil.
liquid fat inside, straw-yellow color, taste and odor remembering
butter, slightly acidic, and soft, thin crust (Brazil, 2001). In general,
butter cheese is marketed in a rectangular or cylindrical shape with
2 to 10 kg (Amarante, 2015).
The microbiology of butter cheese is diversified, with the
prevalence of Leuconostoc, Lactobacillus, Streptococcus, and Lactococ-
cus species (Table 2) (Kamimura et al., 2019). The artisanal butter
cheese is frequently made from raw milk, which may impact in the
quality of the final product, making this cheese more susceptible to
microbial contamination (Alexandre, Aquino, Lyra, & Froehlich,
2016; Kamimura et al., 2019). Some studies about the micro-
biological characteristics of artisanal butter cheese have reported
the occurrence of spoilage and pathogenic microorganisms. In a
study with 40 samples of butter cheese produced in the city of
Maceió, Alagoas state, a total of 37.5% were found to not comply
with the Brazilian legislation regarding Salmonella spp. and total
coliforms parameters (Alexandre et al., 2016). Also, from the total
samples analyzed, 17.5% and 42.5% presented coagulase-positive
Staphylococcus and thermotolerant coliforms above the maxi-
mum limits established by Brazilian rules, respectively (Alexandre
et al., 2016).
Additionally, the authors observed that 40% of the cheese sam-
ples were contaminated with filamentous fungi and yeasts. High
counts of mesophilic bacteria, filamentous fungi, and yeasts, total
and thermotolerant coliforms, Escherichia coli, coagulase-positive
Staphylococcus were found in artisanal butter cheeses samples pro-
4 Comprehensive Reviews in Food Science and Food Safety r Vol. 0, 2019
duced and retailed in the city of Cruz das Almas, Bahia state
(Evangelista-Barreto et al., 2016). A total of 45.8%, 15.4%, 77%,
and 15.4% of the butter cheese samples produced in differ-
ent cities of the Rio Grande do Norte state were not under
the Brazilian regulation regarding total coliforms, thermotoler-
ant coliforms, coagulase-positive Staphylococcus, and Salmonella spp.
(Feitosa, Borges, Nassu, Azevedo, & Muniz, 2003), which show
that the microbiological quality of these cheeses can vary widely.
This variation demands stricter inspection of the product in the
markets, the development and enforcement of regulations towards
the standardization of the production process, and the quality and
safety aspects of these cheeses.
Curd cheese (“Coalho” cheese). Curd cheese, a typical North-
east product, is amongst the well-known Brazilian cheeses. It was
established in Brazil by Europeans and has been prepared since
the 19th century, particularly in Ceará, Rio Grande do Norte,
Pernambuco, and Paraı́ba states (Queiroga et al., 2013). The curd
cheese has significant socioeconomic importance, and its manufac-
turing and promotion is the primary incoming basis for numerous
families and small milk producers. Furthermore, curd cheese is
also a cultural identity element of the Northeastern region (Bruno
et al., 2016; de Carvalho et al., 2015). The manufacturing process
(Figure 3) includes milk heating at 35 °C, coagulation with rennet
or other appropriate coagulating enzymes, curd cutting, mass stir-
ring, partial whey drainage, cooking at 45 to 55 °C, salting (1%
to 2%), molding, mechanical pressing and packing (Bruno et al.,

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Table 1–Characterization of Brazilian artisanal cheeses produced in different regions.

Region Type of cheese Classification Characteristics Composition Production Ripening References

North Marajó Medium to high Fatty cheese with a soft,
moisture compact texture, small
pores, a pleasant aroma,
white color, slightly acid and
salty; cylindrical or
rectangular shape, and
weight between 250 and
500 g.
Two types: Cream type
(Moisture 50% and Fat
22%) and Butter type
Marajó Butter type cheese Fusion of the curd mass
produced in rainy and dry
seasons:
Acidity 0.42% and 0.26%
pH 5.27 and 5.59
Moisture 50.52% and
49.74%
Fat 22.33% and 20.50%,
Protein 25.17% and
24.54%
Ash 2.53% and 2.36%
Not ripened Bittencourt et al. (2013)
desorbed of buffalo milk
and/or buffalo milk mixed Figueiredo et al.
with bovine milk in the (2016)
maximum proportion of Lourenço et al.
40%, washed with water or (2013)
buffalo or bovine milk, Seixas et al. (2014),
obtained by spontaneous Seixas et al. (2015),
coagulation and added of Simões et al. (2014)
cream milk or butter, salted,
cooked and molded.
Brazilian artisanal cheeses . . .

(Moisture 35% and Fat Total dry extract 49.57%

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42%).
Northeast Butter Medium to high Cylindrical or rectangular
moisture shape, weight between 1
and 15 kg. Color varies from
straw white to caramel.
Salty taste, rancid aroma
and flavor, butter flavor and
oiliness.
Northeast Curd Medium to high Elastic consistency, compact
moisture and soft texture, uniform
white-yellow color, mild
flavor, slightly acidic, salty,
slightly acid odor, thin crust,
presence or not of small
holes.
Rectangular shape and
weight between 1 and 5 kg.
and 50.26%
Fat dry extract 45.08% and
40.77%
NaCl 1.06% and 1.08%
Marajó Cream type cheese
produced in rainy and dry
seasons:
Acidity 0.35% and 0.32%
pH 4.89 and 5.58
Moisture 43.06% and
41.00%
Fat 38.05% and 33.98%
Protein 18.65% and
19.78%
Ash 1.60% and 1.68%
Total dry extract 56.94%
and 59.00%
Fat dry extract 66.55% and
57.48%
NaCl 0.45% and 0.66%
Aw 0.982 and 0.980
Minimum and maximum Usually skimmed raw bovine Not ripened Brazil (2011)
values: milk, spontaneously Cavalcante & Costa
Moisture 39.08% to coagulated, whose mass is (2005)
54.46% subjected to desorption, Nassu et al. (2009)
Fat 7.87% to 24.88% washing with water and/or
Fat dry extract 15.59% to milk, salting, melting with
45.95% addition of “Manteiga da
Protein 19.87% to 27.74% Terra” and molding.
Ash 1.79% to 3.20%
Aw 0.962% to 0.971
pH 5.47% to 6.19
Acidity 0.15% to 0.32%
Chlorides 1.13% to 2.20%
Lactic acid 0.32 g/100 g Bovine raw milk with addition It is usually Cavalcante et al. (2007)
pH 6.12 of industrial rennet, clotting commercialized Fontenele (2017)
Moisture 42.94 g/100 g (35 °C, 35 to 45 min), curd fresh or with a Medeiros et al.
Ash 4.11 g/100 g cutting, stirring, curd maturation period (2016), Oliveira et al.
Fat 30.55 g/100 g cooking and whey drainage, of up to 10 days. (2017)
salting, molding, pressing,
cold storage (2-12 °C) and
package.
(Continued)

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 Table 1–Continued.

Region Type of cheese Classification Characteristics Composition Production Ripening References

Brazilian artisanal cheeses . . .

Central Caipira Firm consistency; uniform
mass; particular flavor;
without dyes and
preservatives; presence or
not of mechanical holes.
Southeast Araxá Semi-hard texture of raw
paste, a cylindrical shape,
weigh from 1.0 to 1.2 kg.
Characterized by an
ivory-white color crust and
acid flavor.
Filtration of fresh raw bovine Mato Grosso do Sul
milk; addition of rennet and (2004)
natural starter; coagulation,
curd cutting; stirring;
syneresis; molding; pressing;
dry salting and ripening.
30 days of ripening: The endogenous culture is 22 days Luiz et al. (2017), Sobral
Moisture 27.88% obtained from cheese whey et al. (2013)
Fat dry extract 48.28% and is added to the raw milk
Chlorides 1.97% in concentrations between
pH 5.15 0.1% and 2%. Addition of
Aw 0.92 industrial rennet; curd
cutting, stirring, molding in
plastic forms, pressing,
superficial salting, turning
cheese daily and ripening in

6 Comprehensive Reviews in Food Science and Food Safety r Vol. 0, 2019

shelves.
Southeast Campo das Dry and Rainy seasons: Raw milk with addition of 22 days Castro et al. (2016)
Vertentes Moisture 55.97 and 49.35% endogenous starter cultures
Total solids 44.03% and and clotting agents. The
50.65% endogenous starter culture
Protein 17.54% and comes from the whey
19.86% drained from the previously
Fat 28.28% and 29.06% made cheeses (known
Titratable acidity 0.15% “pingo”), which is collected
and 0.08% and used for cheesemaking
pH 5.53 and 5.44 on the next day.
Southeast Cerrado Cylindrical shape Moisture 54.26% Filtration of raw bovine milk, 22 days Fernandes et al. (2011),
Weight around 1.2 kg Acidity 0.21% addition of rennet and Lima et al. (2009),
Diameter around 18 cm pH 5.43 “pingo”, curd cutting, Oliveira et al. (2013)
Height around 6 cm Protein 14.55% stirring, molding, superficial


Fat 27.62% salting, turning cheese daily.
NaCl 2.62%
(Continued)

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Table 1–Continued.

Region Type of cheese Classification Characteristics Composition Production Ripening References

Southeast Serra da Low Creamy and soft or hard and pH 4.77 Bovine raw milk inoculated 22 days Andrade et al. (2017)
Canastra firm sensations, crumbly Acidity 1.49% with commercial rennet and Bemfeito et al.
texture; salty and bitter Moisture 39.22% “pingo” (Natural Starter), (2016)
Brazilian artisanal cheeses . . .

tastes, sour taste; buttery NaCl 1.24% salting and manual pressing. Dores et al. (2013)

C 2019 Institute of Food Technologists®

and rancid attributes.
Cylindrical shape
Weight around 1.0 kg
Diameter around 15 cm
Height 5 cm
Serro Medium Cylindrical shape
Weight around 1.0 kg
Diameter around 13 cm
Height around 6 cm
South Colonial Intermediary Cylindrical, square or
moisture rectangular shape, weighing
between 500 to 1500 g.
South Serrano An uncooked cheese,
semi-hard texture, intense
taste and a yellowish colour,
without dyes and
preservatives.
Cheese bulk has small
irregularly distributed holes.
Fat 29.18%
Protein 18.51%
<60 days of ripening and >60
days of ripening:
Moisture 50.83 and 38.42%
pH 5.42 and 5.82
Titratable acidity 0.957 and
1.070%
Aw 0.913 and 0.866
NaCl in moisture 0.849%
and 0.855%
pH 5.41 to 5.90
Acidity 0.09% to 0.55%
Moisture 37.52% to
48.09%
Protein 16.74% to 28.35%
Fat 19.33% to 26.95%
Ash 3.06% to 6.99%
Fat dry extract 37.15% to
47.01%
Total carbohydrates 2.53%
to 6.62%
Aw 0.82 to 0.86
For 28 days of ripening:
Fat 33.47%,
Protein 26.81%
Acidity 0.33%
NaCl 1.03%
Moisture 36.42%
Bovine raw milk with addition
of rennet and “pingo”,
coagulated in natural
temperature, obtaining a
firm mass, which is
compressed into forms,
eliminating the whey.
Superficial salting.
Coagulation of raw bovine milk
with addition of industrial
rennet, pressing, molding,
syneresis and brining.
Raw milk obtained from beef
cattle breeds and mixed
breeds and fermented by
natural microbial
populations.
Filtration of milk, salting,
coagulation with addition of
rennet, curd cutting,
syneresis, molding, pressing
and ripening.
Oliveira et al. (2013)
Resende et al. (2011)
17 days Machado et al. (2004)
Mata et al. (2016)
30 days Fava et al. (2012), Ide
and Benedet (2001),
Silva et al. (2015)
Silveira Júnior et al.
(2012)
15 to 30 days Córdova and
Schlickmann (2015)
Delamare et al.
(2012)
Pereira et al. (2014)
Pontarolo et al.
(2017)
Cruz and Menasche
(2014)

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Brazilian artisanal cheeses . . .

MILK

Total skimming Acid

Addition of rennet coagulation

Natural
coagulation Draining

Addition of Addition of Addition of salt Addition of Addition of salt

Draining starter culture “Pingo” “Pingo” Washing with
(optional) milk or water
Coagulation Coagulation
Washing with Coagulation Coagulation
milk or water Coagulation Addition of salt
Curd cutting Curd cutting and butter
Curd cutting Curd cutting
Draining Curd cutting
Heating Draining Cooking
Grinding Stirring
Addition of salt Stirring
and cream Draining Manual Molding
Draining Draining pressing
Partial draining
Cooking Molding BUTTER
Molding Molding Molding CHEESE
Cooking
Molding (optional)
Mechanical
Manual pressing Pressing Mechanical
pressing pressing
MARAJÓ Addition of salt
CHEESE Dry salting
Ripening
Dry salting Ripening
Molding
COLONIAL Ripening
Ripening CHEESE SERRANO
Mechanical CHEESE
pressing MINAS
CAIPIRA
CHEESE
CHEESE
CURD
CHEESE

Figure 3–Cheesemaking steps of Brazilian artisanal cheeses.

2016). The curd cheese can also be made by adding starter cultures
and without cooking of mass (Brazil, 2001).
Even though the manufacture of the curd cheese is a daily and
straightforward practice in Northeast region since the last century,
the ingredients used for its production may vary depending on
the state, resulting in a considerable variability of technological,
physicochemical and sensory properties (Queiroga et al., 2013).
Therefore, a discussion should be made whether harmonization
can be achieved to ensure the maintenance of the quality char-
acteristics and technological properties of this cheese. Another
possibility is defining microregions based on the technological
approaches and quality aspects of the curd cheeses produced and
issuing regulations towards protecting and differentiating them and
the practices employed in their making. For instance, the state of
Pernambuco issued legislation with the parameters for curd cheese
making, which states that the curd cheese is produced with raw
milk from the bovine, caprine, ovine, or buffalo species. Accord-
ing to this legislation, the curd cheese may be fresh or mature
and smoked, added or not of condiments and spices [Agency for
Agricultural Defense and Inspection (ADAGRO), 2018].
Because the curd cheese does not melt when heated, it is widely
consumed roasted and in barbecues (Silva et al., 2012). The pH
should be maintained high (>6.0) to avoid demineralization of the
mass, which could result in a product that melts and warps under
heat (Amarante, 2015).
According to the Normative Instruction n. 30 of June 26, 2001,
the curd cheese is characterized by medium to high moisture (36%
to 45.9%), with semi-cooked or cooked mass, and fat in the dry
matter varying from 35% to 60% (Brazil, 2001). However, each
curd cheese may have particular characteristics based on the type
of milk used, microbiota, and technology employed (Fontenele,
Bastos, dos Santos, Bemquerer, & do Egito, 2017). An average pH
value of 6.0, 55.4% moisture, 26.2% fat, 21.5% protein, 3.1% total
nitrogen and 0.7% chloride were found in curd cheese samples
produced in ten distinct farms in the city of Calçado, Pernambuco
state (Table 1) (Freitas Filho et al., 2012). The curd cheese has a
slightly salty and acid flavor, mild aroma, yellowish-white uniform
color, thin crust without cracking; semi-hard and elastic consis-
tency; and thick and soft texture (Brazil, 2001). Commercially, the
curd cheese is found in 1 to 5 kg rectangular or cylindrical shape
or on wood skewers, ready for roasting (Amarante, 2015).
The curd cheese presents a heterogeneous LAB microbiota in-
cluding Enterococcus, Streptococcus, Lactobacillus, Leuconostoc and Lac-
tococcus genera, that lead to the development of characteristic flavor,
aroma, and texture (Table 2) (Kamimura et al., 2019; Medeiros
et al., 2016; Silva et al., 2012). Because of its physicochemical

8 Comprehensive Reviews in Food Science and Food Safety r Vol. 0, 2019 

C 2019 Institute of Food Technologists®
Brazilian artisanal cheeses . . .

Table 2–Microorganisms found in Brazilian artisanal cheeses.

Type of cheese Microorganisms References

North Marajó Enterococcus faecium Figueiredo et al. (2016)

Enterococcus durans Seixas et al. (2015)
Coliforms Simões et al. (2014)
Escherichia coli
Staphylococcus aureus
Fungi, yeast
Northeast Butter Listeria spp. Alexandre et al. (2016)
Salmonella sp. Feitosa et al. (2003)
Coagulase-positive Staphylococcus Viana et al. (2009)
Escherichia coli
Thermotolerant coliforms
Total coliforms
Fungi and yeast
Mesophilic aerobes
Northeast Curd Lactobacillus fermentum Andrade et al. (2011)
Lactobacillus plantarum Bruno et al. (2016)
Lactobacillus rhamnosus Feitosa et al. (2003)
Enterococcus casseliflavus Medeiros et al. (2016)
Enterococcus durans Silva et al. (2012)
Enterococcus faecalis Evêncio-Luz et al. (2012)
Enterococcus faecium Meneses et al. (2012)
Enterococcus gallinarum
Enterococcus italicus
Lactococcus garvieae
Lactococcus lactis
Lactococcus lactis subsp. lactis
Leuconostoc mesenteroides
Streptococcus infantarius subsp.
infantarius
Streptococcus lutetiensis
Streptococcus macedonicus
Streptococcus thermophilus
Streptococcus waiu
Weissella paramesenteroides
Total coliforms
Thermotolerant coliforms
Escherichia coli
Listeria spp.
Listeria monocytogenes
Salmonella sp.
Coagulase-positive Staphylococcus
Staphylococcus aureus
Staphylococcus chromogenes
Staphylococcus cohnii cohnii
Staphylococcus cohnii subsp.
urealyticus
Staphylococcus epidermidis
Staphylococcus haemolyticus
Staphylococcus hominis
Staphylococcus hyicus
Staphylococcus lentus
Staphylococcus lugdunensis
Staphylococcus saprophyticus
Staphylococcus xylosus
Aeromonas caviae
Aeromonas hydrophila
Aeromonas sobria
Aeromonas veronii
Fungi and yeast
Central Caipira Lactococcus Kamimura et al. (2019)
L. plantarum
L. casei/paracasei
Enterobacteriacea
Staphylococcus

(Continued)

C 2019 Institute of Food Technologists® Vol. 0, 2019 r Comprehensive Reviews in Food Science and Food Safety 9
Brazilian artisanal cheeses . . .

Table 2–Continued.

Type of cheese Microorganisms References

Southeast Araxá Lactobacillus casei Luiz et al. (2017)

Lactobacillus paracasei Perin et al. (2017)
Lactobacillus plantarum Sobral et al. (2013)
Lactobacillus rhamnosus
Enterococcus faecalis
Enterococcus rivorum
Lactococcus lactis
Pediococcus sp.
Escherichia coli
Coliforms
Staphylococcus aureus
Campo das Vertentes Lactobacillus acidipiscis Castro et al. (2016)
Lactobacillus brevis Perin et al. (2017)
Lactobacillus paracasei Sant’Anna et al. (2017)
Lactobacillus plantarum
Lactobacillus rhamnosus
Lactococcus lactis
Lactococcus garvieae
Enterococcus faecalis
Enterococcus faecium
Pediococcus acidilactici
Total coliforms
Thermotolerant coliforms
Staphylococcus spp.
Cerrado Lactobacillus brevis Fernandes et al. (2011)
Lactobacillus paracasei Lima et al. (2009)
Lactobacillus plantarum Perin et al. (2017)
Lactobacillus rhamnosus
Lactococcus lactis
Enterococcus faecalis
Enterococcus raffinosus
Leuconostoc mesenteroides
Streptococcus agalactiae
Total coliforms
Thermotolerant coliforms
Serra da Canastra Lactobacillus casei Borelli et al. (2006)
Lactobacillus brevis Perin et al. (2017)
Lactobacillus hilgardii Resende et al. (2011)
Lactobacillus paracasei
Lactobacillus plantarum
Lactobacillus paraplantarum
Lactobacillus rhamnosus
Weissella paramesenteroides
Enterococcus spp.
Enterococcus faecalis
Lactococcus spp.
Escherichia coli
Total coliforms
Thermotolerant coliforms
Staphylococcus spp.
Staphylococcus aureus
Serro Lactobacillus brevis Galinari et al. (2014)
Lactobacillus buchneri Mata et al. (2016)
Lactobacillus parabuchneri Perin et al. (2017)
Lactobacillus paracasei Pinto et al. (2009)
Lactobacillus plantarum
Lactobacillus rhamnosus
Lactococcus spp.
Enterococcus faecalis
Weissella paramesenteroides
Escherichia coli
Total coliforms
Thermotolerant coliforms
Staphylococcus aureus

(Continued)
10 Comprehensive Reviews in Food Science and Food Safety r Vol. 0, 2019 
C 2019 Institute of Food Technologists®
Brazilian artisanal cheeses . . .

Table 2–Continued.

Type of cheese Microorganisms References

South Colonial Lactococcus Zaffari et al. (2007)

Lactobacillus Silva et al. (2015)
Leuconostoc Kamimura et al. (2019)
Macrococcus caseolyticus
Staphylococcus sp.
Staphylococcus equorum
Staphylococcus vitulinus
Salmonella sp.
Total coliforms
Thermotolerant coliforms
Listeria innocua
Listeria seeligeri
Serrano Lactobacillus acidophilus Delamare et al. (2012)
Lactobacillus curvatus Melo et al. (2013)
Lactobacillus fermentum Pontarolo et al. (2017)
Lactobacillus paracasei Rosa et al. (2008)
Lactobacillus plantarum
Lactobacillus rhamnosus
Enterococcus sp.
Lactococcus sp.
Leuconostoc sp.
Total coliforms
Thermotolerant coliforms
Escherichia coli
Coagulase-positive Staphylococcus
Listeria spp.
Listeria monocytogenes
Salmonella spp.
Staphylococcus aureus

characteristics, the curd cheese has been studied as a matrix for
the incorporation of probiotic microorganisms. For instance, Lac-
tobacillus acidophilus (LA-5), Lactobacillus casei subsp. paracasei and
Bifidobacterium lactis were added to goat curd cheese and count
>5.5 log CFU/g were found after simulated gastrointestinal con-
ditions exposure (Oliveira, Garcia, Queiroga, & Souza, 2012). The
goat curd cheese matrix has been reported to present protective
effects towards Lactobacillus rhamnosus EM1107 when exposed to
in vitro digestion (final counts of 6.8 log CFU/g) (Rolim et al.,
2015) and toward L. acidophilus (LA-5), L. paracasei, L. casei-01,
and B. lactis BB 12 (Bezerra et al., 2017).
Apart from the lactic acid bacteria, these cheeses may present
high counts of potentially pathogenic microorganisms if not han-
dled under proper hygienic conditions during processing and if
the sanitary management of dairy herds is deficient. For instance,
high counts (6 to 9 log CFU/g) of Staphylococcus spp were reported
in curd cheese samples (n = 300) retailed in the city of Fortaleza,
Ceará (Andrade, Borges, Figueiredo, Machado, & Porto, 2011).
Nine species of Staphylococcus were identified among the isolates:
S. cohnii subsp. cohnii, S. saprophyticus, S. xylosus, S. epidermidis, S.
lentus, S. cohnii subsp. urealyticus, S. hyicus, S. lugdunensis, and S.
aureus. S. aureus was isolated from 100% of the samples analyzed
(Andrade et al., 2011). The widespread incidence of Staphylococcus
in the cheese samples may indicate that the milk used for cheese
making was of poor quality and that hygienic conditions were
not adequate during cheese-making. Also, the presence of S. au-
reus in 100% of the samples may be more concerning considering
that this cheese undergoes thermal processing (Oliveira, Padovani,
Miya, Sant’Ana, & Pereira, 2011). Therefore, thermal processing
may eliminate the background microbiota, and if recontamination
takes place, toxigenic strains of S. aureus may find adequate condi-
tions for growth during curd cheese commercialization. The curd
cheese produced with raw milk and collected in seven different
farms of the city of São Rafael, Rio Grande do Norte state, has
also been recently reported to harbor >4.4 log CFU/g of S. aureus
(Pereira, Góis, Soares, Souza, & Sousa, 2017). These results indi-
cate that the contamination of raw milk and hygiene employed
during the making of this cheese under artisanal conditions must
be highly improved.
Central region
Caipira cheese. Mato Grosso do Sul is known for cattle ranch-
ing. Therefore, the animals present low milk yield, which was ini-
tially directed to the cheese production for farmers’ consumption.
In 1980, the production of dairy products reached the market,
mainly due to the improvement of roads, and the Caipira cheese
has played an essential role in the income of families since them.
Caipira cheese is produced according to the historical and cul-
tural tradition of Mato Grosso do Sul state, which is regulated by
the Law n. 2820 of May 4, 2004. The cheese-makers are required
to preserve the regional characteristics of Caipira cheese to obtain
a quality accreditation (Mato Grosso do Sul, 2004). In the state
of Mato Grosso do Sul, 14 cities (Aquidauana, Água Clara, Ban-
deirantes, Camapuã, Corguinho, Campo Grande, Ribas do Rio
Pardo, Dois Irmãos do Buriti, Jaraguari, Rochedo, São Gabriel do
Oeste, Santa Rita do Pardo, Terenos and Sidrolândia) have been
working to maintain this quality accreditation to commercialize
Caipira cheese.


C 2019 Institute of Food Technologists® Vol. 0, 2019 r Comprehensive Reviews in Food Science and Food Safety 11
Brazilian artisanal cheeses . . .
Caipira cheese is manufactured using fresh, whole and raw cow’s
milk, and is processed in the farm of origin, showing firm con-
sistency, typical flavor, and uniform mass. Caipira cheese does not
contain dyes and preservatives in its formulation and can present
mechanical holes or not (Mato Grosso do Sul, 2004). Caipira
cheese manufacture must start up to 90 minutes after milking, with
some mandatory steps. These mandatory steps for the production
of Caipira cheese comprise filtration, the use of “pingo” and ren-
net, curd cutting, grinding, draining, molding, manual pressing,
dry salting and ripening (Mato Grosso do Sul, 2004). Therefore,
this is a cheese with noncooked mass, in which the pressing step
is performed exclusively manually. Also, Caipira cheese-making, a
ripening stage, is employed (Figure 3).
The microbiota of the Caipira cheese is characterized by the
presence of heterofermentative and homofermentative LAB, with
the prevalence of Lactococcus, and high Lactobacillus diversity, with
the dominance of L. plantarum and L. casei/paracasei (Table 2).
These microorganisms are accountable for the development of the
sensory characteristics and can produce antimicrobial compounds,
contributing to the safety aspects of the product (Kamimura
et al., 2019). However, microbial contaminants have also been
found in these cheeses, such as Enterobacteriaceae and Staphylococcus
(Kamimura et al., 2019). The physicochemical characteristics of
Caipira cheese have not been reported in scientific studies yet.
Southeast region
Minas artisanal cheese. Documents from the 18th century have
demonstrated that the manufacturing of Minas artisanal cheese was
habitual by that time. Portuguese explorers traveled to the Central
region of Brazil looking for gold and introduced the practice of
cheese making, based mainly on the techniques used in the Serra da
Estrela, Portugal. The artisanal Minas cheese, however, does not
resemble the cheese produced in Portugal, which is made with
sheep’s milk and vegetable rennet from a thistle flower. The Minas
cheese has similar characteristics to the São Jorge cheese, which
is produced in the São Jorge Island in the Azores. This cheese is
produced with cow’s milk, uses animal rennet for coagulation and
is ripened. Therefore, the origin of Mina’s artisanal cheeses is a
matter of debate. After the decay of mining at the beginning of
the 19th century, the Minas artisanal cheese was structured in the
local economy and widespread.
Minas Gerais state is considered the largest artisanal cheese-
maker in Brazil. The Minas artisanal cheese is made by approx-
imately 27000 small and medium farmers living in 519 out of
the 823 municipalities of the state. Cheese-making in the state of
Minas Gerais comprise a source of income for farmers’ families
(Correia & Assis, 2017).
The Minas Gerais Institute of Farming (IMA) recognizes seven
traditional microregions of Minas artisanal cheese-making: Araxá,
Campo das Vertentes, Canastra, Cerrado, Serro, Serra do Salitre,
and Triângulo Mineiro (Figure 2 and 3). The division of these
microregions is based on abiotic factors such as the predominant
vegetation, altitude, average temperature, air relative humidity, and
peculiarities of the cheese making process. These factors confer
distinct physicochemical, sensory, and microbiological character-
istics to the artisanal cheeses produced. Although the steps in the
cheese making processes are quite similar among the microre-
gions, the climate factors favor the development of specific mi-
crobial species during production and ripening period, resulting
in a microbial signature of these products. Consequently, the nat-
ural conditions associated with the specific know-how in each
12 Comprehensive Reviews in Food Science and Food Safety r Vol. 0, 2019
producing region contribute each Minas artisanal cheese a unique
identity, despite the lack of documented differences.
By the Ordinance n. 1305, of April 30, 2013, the cheese maker
from the delimited regions that are willing to be registered as a
Minas artisanal cheese-maker must follow specific criteria. These
criteria comprise: (1) certificate of conclusion of the course of
“Good practices for obtaining milk and cheese production” for all those
involved in the milking and cheese production process within the
farm, including new hired employees; (2) analysis of the milk pro-
duced in the rural properties in which the dairy plants are located;
(3) sanitary control of herds in rural property and noncommer-
cialization of the cheeses without proper approval of the labeling
by the regulator; and (4) the ripening step should be performed at
room temperature (IMA, 2013a).
Some factors contribute to the uniqueness of Minas artisanal
cheese, such as: (1) the terroir obtained due to the mild climate, high
altitude, native pastures and mountain waters, (2) raw and fresh
whole cow’s milk, (3) the use of “pingo,” which is responsible for
the sensory characteristics of the products of the delimited region.
The legislation requires that the milk used for cheese-making
originates from the same property in which the cheese will be
made, or, optionally, from a group of producers (maximum of 15,
located up to 5 km from the dairy plant). The curd should have a
firm consistency, with or without mechanical eyes and maximum
moisture content of 45.9%, that is, a cheese of medium moisture
content (Amarante, 2015; Castro et al., 2016).
The processing of Minas artisanal cheese comprises the follow-
ing steps: milking and milk filtration, the addition of rennet and
“pingo,” coagulation, curd cutting, stirring, draining, molding,
pressing, dry salting, and ripening. This cheese is not cooked, pre-
senting a natural crust. Cheese salting is done by including a thick
layer of coarse or crushed salt at the surface of the cheeses, with
the salt content varying among microregions (Figure 3). Con-
sidering the traditional process of manufacture, the ripening step
was made on wooden shelves, which contributed to the prod-
uct characteristics. However, a set of new elements have been
incorporated into the cheese production process, such as the re-
placement of wood forms by plastic or stainless steel materials and
industrial rennet (Santos et al., 2017). This, however, comprises a
contradictory measure that may interfere in the historical cheese-
making procedures and on the microbiota present in Mina’s arti-
sanal cheeses. Therefore, measures such these should be carefully
evaluated before implementation. Additionally, during the ripen-
ing time, cheeses are turned upside down daily in order to obtain
a homogenous product.
The main difference among Mina’s artisanal cheeses manufac-
tured in the different microregions is the pressing step. The cheeses
manufactured in the microregion of Serro are pressed manually
(using the hands), while cheeses manufactured in the microre-
gions of Canastra, Cerrado, Araxá, and Campo das Vertentes are
pressed with the aid of cheesecloth. This difference in the pressing
step is directly related to the ripening time of cheeses. For Serro
cheeses, a higher concentration of lactose is attained in the prod-
uct, which allows more significant production of acid by LAB,
precluding the development of pathogenic microorganisms and
resulting in a shorter ripening period (generally 17 days). On the
other hand, cheeses produced in the other microregions gener-
ally present a 22-day-ripening period (Costa Júnior et al., 2014),
although the ripening time of each cheese is particular to each
microregion and even to cheese-maker.
Araxá cheese. The microregion of Araxá has more than
two centuries of tradition in cheese-making based on

C 2019 Institute of Food Technologists®
Brazilian artisanal cheeses . . .
historical-cultural references. Cheese consumption is a common
habit of the residents, considered indispensable in their daily diet
(Correia & Assis, 2017). The cheese traditionally produced in
the microregion of Araxá uses the technique introduced by the
Portuguese settlers coming from the Serra da Estrela region (Ama-
rante, 2015).
The IMA Ordinance n. 594 of October 6, 2013, delimited
the microregion of Araxá. This area is in the Araxá plateau, en-
compassing part of the mesoregion of the Triângulo Mineiro and
the Alto Parnaı́ba. Araxá cheese production is performed in the
cities of Araxá, Campos Altos, Ibiá, Pedrinópolis, Perdizes, Sacra-
mento, Santa Juliana, Uberaba, Conquista, Pratinha, and Tapira
(IMA, 2013b; Sobral et al., 2013). It is an area of 13629 km2 and
altitude of 910 to 1359 m (Amarante, 2015), with characteristic
hydrography and relief and a phosphate-rich soil (Sobral et al.,
2013).
Araxá cheese is produced with whole raw cow’s milk, “pingo,”
rennet and salt. It is interesting to mention that in Araxá region
the cattle are feed with sugarcane, resulting in a more acidic and
intense flavor cheese. The consistency is semi-hard, thick texture,
with white cream coloration. It has a thin and yellowish crust,
without cracks; and cylindrical shape of 13 to 15 cm in diameter,
weighing 1 to 2 kg. The ripening time is of 22 to 30 days. The
chemical composition is diversified, but the moisture content of
27.9%, fat in the dry matter of 48.3%, chlorides of 2.0%, pH of
5.2 and water activity of 0.92 were previously reported (Table 1)
(Luiz et al., 2017; Sobral et al., 2013).
The microbiota of the Araxá cheese is characterized by the
prevalence of Lactococcus (Lactococcus lactis), followed by Lactobacillus
(L. plantarum, L. brevis, L. rhamnosus, L. casei) (Table 2) (Kamimura
et al., 2019; Luiz et al., 2017). Furthermore, other microorgan-
isms have also been found in these cheeses, such as Enterococcus
faecalis, Enterococcus rivorum, and Pediococcus spp. (Luiz et al., 2017,
Perin, Savo Sardaro, Nero, Neviani, & Gatti, 2017, Sobral et al.,
2013). Lactobacillus species are essential during the ripening pro-
cess due to the production of volatile substances that impact on
the sensory properties of these cheeses. Furthermore, some species
can have probiotic properties. Enterococcus spp. are considered ad-
junct cultures, because of their lipolytic and proteolytic properties,
even though some strains may present antibiotic-resistance (Luiz
et al., 2017). Also, as these cheeses are made from raw milk, be-
ing moderately manipulated and potentially harboring pathogenic
microorganisms initially present in milk or originated from poor
hygienic and sanitary conditions during the manufacturing pro-
cess. Staphylococcus and E. coli have been found in Araxá cheeses
(Kamimura et al., 2019, Luiz et al., 2017, Perin et al., 2017,
Sobral et al., 2013), with average 5 log CFU/g of coagulase-
positive Staphylococcus being found in Araxá cheeses (Souza, Melo,
Medeiros, Conde, & Nader Filho, 2015).
Campo das vertentes cheese. The production of the Campo das
Vertentes cheese began in the early 18th century by the Portuguese
immigrants, “new Christians” from the Minho region. The area
of Campo das Vertentes was constituted of fertile valleys and mild
climate, being considered highly productive (Amarante, 2015).
Therefore, the immigrants established in the area, and a whole
structure was built for the production of beef cattle and milk,
agricultural products, sweets, and cheese (Correia & Assis, 2017).
The IMA Ordinance n. 1022 of November 3, 2009, delimited
the microregion of Campo das Vertentes. The area is located in
the Serra da Mantiqueira, a mountain chain along the borders of
Rio de Janeiro, Minas Gerais, and São Paulo states (IMA, 2009).
The microregion of Campo das Vertentes comprises the munic-

C 2019 Institute of Food Technologists® Vol. 0, 2019 r Comprehensive Reviews in Food Science and Food Safety 13
ipalities of Barroso, Chaves, Coronel Xavier Chaves, Conceição
da Barra de Minas, Lagoa Dourada, Carrancas, Nazareno, Madre
de Deus de Minas, Prados, Resende Costa, Piedade do Rio
Grande, Ritápolis, São João Del Rei, Santa Cruz de Minas,
Tiradentes, and São Tiago (IMA, 2009). It is an area of 6254 km2
and altitude of 400 to 1300 m (Amarante, 2015). The recognition
of the Campo das Vertentes microregion as a traditional cheese-
maker region allowed many cheese makers to comply with the
legislation. Additionally, other new producers also had the oppor-
tunity to enter the market, and thus obtain the regularization of
their production and dairy premises (Costa Júnior et al., 2014). A
recent report, however, suggests that this microregion still lacked
the contribution of sanitary and inspection bodies, as well as of
the government support, to reach the levels achieved by other mi-
croregions, such as the Canastra microregion (Costa Júnior et al.,
2014).
Campo das Vertentes cheese is also made with raw milk and
“pingo” (Castro et al., 2016). This type of cheese has a thin crust
without cracks, white-yellowish mass, dense texture, semi-hard
consistency, slightly acidic taste, and a not spicy and pleasant
flavor. It is commercialized in a cylindrical shape with 13 to 15
cm diameter, 4 to 6 cm height, and 0.7 to 1 kg weight (Amarante,
2015). Despite the historical and economic importance, data
on the physicochemical characteristics of Campo das Vertentes
cheeses was reported only recently (Castro, 2015; Castro et al.,
2016). The physicochemical characteristics of the Campo das
Vertentes cheese were reported: 49.4% to 56.0% for moisture,
44.0% to 50.7% for total solids, 17.5% to 19.9% for protein,
28.3% to 29.1% for fat, 0.1% to 0.2% for titratable acidity, and
pH of 5.4 to 5.5 (Castro et al., 2016).
The microbiota of the Campo das Vertentes cheese was char-
acterized by the prevalence of Lactococcus (L. lactis and L. garvieae),
followed by Lactobacillus (L. acidipiscis, L. brevis, L. paracasei, L.
plantarum, and L. rhamnosus) and Leuconostoc species (Table 2).
Furthermore, other microorganisms were also found, such as E.
faecalis, Enterococcus faecium, and Pediococcus acidilactici. Strains with
probiotic properties could be isolated from the Campo das Ver-
tentes cheeses, such as P. acidilactici (PA2) and L. plantarum (LP4)
(Sant’Anna et al., 2017). Such species were able to protect mice
from infection caused by Salmonella Typhimurium, which could
make L. plantarum (LP4) a potentially probiotic strain for food
application (Sant’Anna et al., 2017). Conversely, microbial con-
taminants, and potentially pathogenic bacteria were also identified
(Staphylococcus spp.) in the Campo das Vertentes cheese (Castro
et al., 2016; Perin et al., 2017). High counts of total and ther-
motolerant coliforms, Staphylococcus (>104 CFU/g) and yeasts
and molds (>108 CFU/g) in this type of cheese. The presence
of coliforms may cause cheese deterioration, resulting in early
blowing, while the presence of high concentrations of coagulase-
positive Staphylococcus could also be harmful to consumers be-
cause of the possible production of enterotoxins. Additionally, high
counts of yeasts and molds suggest inefficient sanitization of uten-
sils and the utilization of raw milk of poor quality (Castro et al.,
2016).
Canastra cheese. Canastra cheese is amongst the most antique,
most traditional and famous cheeses made with raw milk on a
small scale in Serra da Canastra (Dores, Nobrega, & Ferreira,
2013). The IMA Ordinance n. 694 of November 17, 2004, de-
limited the microregion of Serra da Canastra, which occupies part
of the mesoregions of the West and Southern/Southwest of Minas
Gerais state (IMA, 2004). This region encompasses the munici-
palities of Delfinópolis, Bambuı́, Medeiros, São Roque de Minas,
Brazilian artisanal cheeses . . .
Piumhi, Vargem Bonita, Tapiraı́, and São João Batista do Glória
(IMA, 2004). The “Protected Designation of Origin” with the
geographical indication of Canastra cheese manufacturing was rec-
ognized in 2011 by the Nacional Institute of Industrial Protection
(INPI), under the number IG201002 (Andrade, Melo, Genisheva,
Schwan, & Duarte, 2017). It is an area with 7452 km2 and alti-
tude of 637 to 1485 m (Amarante, 2015); and the natural pastures
of mature grass and native grasses give rise to more cultivated
pastures with high productivity, mainly Brachiaria. This region is
characterized by a high-altitude tropical climate, with an average
annual temperature of 22.2 °C, with a minimum of 16.7 °C and
maximum of 27.6 °C (Meneses, 2006).
Canastra cheese is produced from raw cow’s milk inoculated
with commercial rennet and “pingo,” in order to start the fermen-
tation process (Andrade et al., 2017; Dores et al., 2013). Canastra
cheese has a thin crust with yellow color and without cracks,
white-yellowish mass, dense texture, semi-hard consistency with
a tendency to soft, butter-like nature, slightly acidic taste, and a
marked and spicy flavor. These characteristics are present in this
cheese due to the climate of the Canastra region, which combines
hot days and cold nights. Canastra cheese is cylindrical with 15
to 17 cm diameter, 4 to 6 cm height, and 1 to 1.2 kg weight
(Amarante, 2015). The chemical composition reported for Canas-
tra cheese is 44.9% moisture content, 0.5% titratable acidity, 18.5%
protein, 23.6% fat, and 1.9% chloride (Table 1) (Oliveira et al.,
2013).
The ripening period of Canastra cheese is about 22 days at room
temperature and this time is effective in reducing pathogens such as
L. monocytogenes (Campagnollo et al., 2018; Cadavez et al., 2019).
Nevertheless, ripening under chilling was not effective, even after
64 days, in decreasing the S. aureus populations below the regula-
tion values (Dores et al., 2013). According to Dores et al. (2013), it
is needed to know the impacts of ripening and temperature on the
fate of foodborne pathogens and on the physicochemical features
of Canastra cheeses to direct the modifications in manufacture,
training the producers to avoid the informality and clandestinity
of these products.
Canastra cheeses microbiota is diverse and influenced by differ-
ent factors, including the altitude of the production region. This
type of cheese was characterized by the prevalence of Lactococcus,
followed by Lactobacillus (L. casei, L. brevis, L. hilgardii, L. paraca-
sei, L. plantarum, L. paraplantarum, L. rhamnosus) and Leuconostoc
(Table 2). Furthermore, other microorganisms have also been
found, such as E. faecalis, and Weissella paramesenteroides (Borelli
et al., 2006; Kamimura et al., 2019; Perin et al., 2017). A previ-
ous research (Resende et al., 2011) observed higher LAB counts
in samples of cheeses collected from 600 to 900 m in altitude.
Lactobacillus rhamnosus, L. plantarum, and L. casei were the main
microorganisms isolated and identified, suggesting that the species
were well fitted to the processing premises of Canastra cheese, con-
tributing to the sensory characteristics of this product. Nonethe-
less, contaminants such as Staphylococcus were recently detected in
Canastra cheeses (Kamimura et al., 2019), which have been found
in counts higher than 5 log CFU/g (Borelli et al., 2006).
Cerrado cheese. The beginning of the manufacture and con-
sumption of Cerrado cheese was registered during the settlement
of Minas Gerais state, in the so-called Gold Cycle. There are
records in 1798 of artisanal cheese consumption in Vila do Para-
catu do Prı́ncipe with mention to cheese making using raw milk in
the Cerrado region (Pohl, 1976). The IMA Ordinance n. 619 of
December 1, 2003, and n. 874 of October 2, 2007, delimited the
microregion of Cerrado, which includes part of the mesoregions
14 Comprehensive Reviews in Food Science and Food Safety r Vol. 0, 2019
of the Triângulo Mineiro and Alto Parnaı́ba and the Northwest
region of Minas Gerais state (IMA, 2003a, 2007). This microre-
gion comprises the municipalities of Abadia dos Dourados, Coro-
mandel, Cruzeiro da Fortaleza, Arapuá, Patrocı́nio, Carmo do
Paraı́ba, Lagoa Formosa, Guimarânia, Patos de Minas, Matutina,
Rio Parnaı́ba, São Gotardo, Santa Rosa da Serra, e Tiros, Laga-
mar, São Gonçalo do Abaeté, Presidente Olegário, and Varjão de
Minas. It is an area of 29,397 km2 and altitude of 691to 1258 m
(Amarante, 2015). Its climate is characterized as tropical of high-
altitude, with an average annual temperature of 22 °C, with a
minimum of 16.4 °C and maximum of 27.6 °C (Meneses, 2006).
Cerrado cheese has a thin crust with yellow color and without
cracks, white-yellowish mass, dense texture, semi-hard consistency
with a tendency to soft, butter-like nature, slightly acidic taste, and
a not spicy and pleasant flavor. It is commercialized in a cylindrical
shape with 15 to 17 cm diameter, 4 to 6 cm height, and 1to 1.2 kg
weight (Amarante, 2015). The chemical composition may vary,
but studies have reported: 46.5% to 54.3% of moisture content,
0.2% to 0.4% of titratable acidity, pH of 5.4, 14% of protein,
28% of fat and 2% to 2.6% of chloride (Table 1) (Fernandes
et al., 2011; Oliveira et al., 2013).
As the other Minas artisanal cheeses, Cerrado cheese is produced
using raw milk and “Pingo.” “Pingo” obtained from Cerrado
cheese is composed of different LAB species such as Enterococcus
spp. (E. faecium, E. faecalis, E. raffinosus), Lactococcus spp. (L. lactis),
Streptococcus spp. (S. agalactiae, S. bovis), and Pediococcus spp. (P. acidi-
lacti and P. pentosaceus) (Table 2). These microorganisms are key
for the sensory features of the cheeses (Lima, Lima, Cerqueira;,
Ferreira;, & Rosa, 2009). However, problems with undesirable
microorganisms were also reported. Fernandes et al. (2011) eval-
uated the physicochemical and microbiological characteristics of
six Cerrado kinds of cheese, and found that 100% samples pre-
sented >5 MNP/g of total coliforms, 67% presented >2 MNP/g
for thermotolerant coliforms, and 100% presented high counts of
foreign materials, such as dark spots, animal and human hair or
plant histological elements.
Serro cheese. The Serro cheese is obtained by the technique
introduced by the Portuguese settlers coming from the Serra da
Estrela region (Amarante, 2015). The recognition of this cheese
was consolidated in 1930, with the opening of the road connect-
ing Serro and Belo Horizonte cities (Correia & Assis, 2017). The
IMA Ordinance n. 546 of October 29, 2002, and n. 591 of May
26, 2003, delimited the microregion of Serro, which includes part
of the mesoregions of the Belo Horizonte metropolitan area and
the Vale do Rio Doce (IMA, 2002, 2003b). The region combines
geomorphological, edaphic and microclimatic conditions that led
to the emergence of natural pastures, where the grasses typical of
altitude fields are predominant. The Serro microregion encom-
passes the municipalities of Conceição do Mato Dentro, Alvoradas
de Minas, Dom Joaquim, Marterlândia, Paulistas, Sabinópolis, Rio
Vermelho, Serra Azul de Minas, Santo Antônio do Itambé, Serro,
and Coluna. The geographical indication of Serro cheese was rec-
ognized in 2011 by INPI with IG number 201001. It is an area
of 6960 km2 and altitude of 600 to 1200 m (Amarante, 2015),
and the relief is bumpy and enjoys a high-altitude tropical climate
(Meneses, 2006).
Serro cheese results from the combination of different factors
such as climate and vegetation (pastures). Also, the features of this
cheese result from the development of specific microflora, accord-
ing to the microclimate and socio-cultural factors. The produc-
tion of Serro cheese is made with whole raw cow’s milk, “pingo,”
rennet and salt. It shows a semi-hard consistency, thick texture,

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Brazilian artisanal cheeses . . .
yellowish-white color, slightly sour taste, and a thin crust with no
cracks. Its flavor is quite typical and markedly more acidic than
the other Minas artisanal cheeses, probably due to the edapho-
climatic conditions of this region. The shape is cylindrical (13
to 15 cm in diameter and 4 to 6 cm height), and the weight
ranges from 0.7 to 1 kg. The total solids content varies from 46%
to 52%, and the fat content in the dry matter is at least 50%
(Table 1). Oliveira et al. (2013) reported 47.8% for moisture con-
tent, 0.5% for titratable acidity, 14.1% for protein, 28.0% for fat
and 1.8% for chloride. Additionally, it is generally moister than the
other Minas artisanal cheeses, and the ripening time is of at least 8
days, but it generally takes 17 days (Amarante, 2015). This short-
est ripening period is probably due to the warm climate of Serro
microregion.
The microbiota of the Serro cheese presents the predominance
of Streptococcus genus, followed by Lactococcus (L. buchneri, L. brevis,
L. parabuchneri, L. paracasei, L. plantarum, L. rhamnosus, Lactobacil-
lus, and Leuconostoc (Table 2) (Kamimura et al., 2019; Perin et al.,
2017). Production of Serro cheese should be performed using the
Good Manufacturing Practices (GMC), otherwise it can offer a
health risk, as high contamination by coagulase-positive Staphy-
lococcus was previous reported, with counts of 5.4 log CFU/g in
fresh cheeses and of 4.1 log CFU/g in ripened cheeses (Brant,
Fonseca, & Silva, 2007).
Serra do salitre and triangulo mineiro cheeses. The microre-
gion of Triângulo Mineiro was the 6th region of the Minas Gerais
state to be recognized as Mina’s artisanal cheese maker by the IMA
Directive n. 1397 of February 13, 2014 (IMA, 2014a). This mi-
croregion is situated in the northcentral zone of the mesoregion
of the Triângulo Mineiro and Alto Paranaı́ba, representing more
than 10000 km2 and an altitude of about 900 m (Amarante, 2015).
The Triângulo Mineiro microregion encompasses the municipal-
ities of Cascalho Rico, Araguari, Indianópolis, Estrela do Sul,
Monte Alegre de Minas, Nova Ponte, Monte Carmelo, Romaria,
Uberlândia, and Tupaciguara (IMA, 2014a), including about 1300
artisanal cheese producers (Milkpoint, 2014).
As the other Minas artisanal cheeses, the Triângulo Mineiro
cheese is made of raw cow’s milk and added of rennet, “pingo”
and salt (Figure 2 and 3). It has a semi-hard crust, thick texture, a
golden-yellow color, mild and slightly acid taste (Portal do Queijo,
2019). There are no studies regarding the composition, endoge-
nous microbiota or microbiological contaminants of Triângulo
Mineiro cheese. However, Soares (2014) studied the Minas arti-
sanal cheese made in Uberlândia, a city belonging to the Triângulo
Mineiro microregion, and found that at the end of ripening time
the cheeses presented 47.2% for fat in dry matter, 35.9% for mois-
ture content, 2.1% for chloride, 27.5% for protein, 5.3% for ash,
30.1% for fat and 2.0% for titrable acidity. Microbiological analysis
indicated the lack of L. monocytogenes and Salmonella spp. was iso-
lated in only one sample (n = 120). The author also observed that
a more extended ripening period resulted in a decrease of total
coliforms and E. coli counts, and that coagulase-positive Staphylo-
coccus achieved the limit allowed by Brazilian legislation after 26
days of ripening.
The Serra do Salitre microregion was recognized as the 7th ar-
tisanal cheese producer region of the Minas Gerais state, according
to the IMA Ordinance n. 1428 of August 29, 2014 (IMA, 2014b).
This region, which was separated from the Cerrado microregion,
is also situated in the mesoregion of the Triângulo Mineiro and
Alto Paranaı́ba and encompasses only the municipality of Serra do
Salitre with an area of 1297 km2 , altitude of 1220 m and enjoying
a high-altitude tropical climate (Amarante, 2015).

C 2019 Institute of Food Technologists®
The Serra do Salitre cheese is prepared employing raw cow’s
milk, industrial rennet, “pingo,” and salt (Slow Food, 2019).
The cheese of this microregion has thin and yellowish crust
without cracks, buttery and white-yellowish mass, dense texture,
and slightly acid, pleasant and not spicy taste. Commercializa-
tion is performed in a cylindrical form with a diameter of 15 to
17 cm, the height of 4 to 6 cm, and weight of 1 to 1.2 kg (Ama-
rante, 2015). Ripening is generally carried out for 7 to 21 days
on wooden shelves at room temperature (more extended ripening
periods results in more intense cheese flavor), but Serra do Salitre
cheese can also be consumed fresh (Slow Food, 2019) or receive
layer of edible resin being then called the Imperial cheese from
Serra do Salitre.
Streptococcus, Lactococcus, Staphylococcus, Weissella, and Lactobacil-
lus were amongst the most prevalent members of the microbial
community present in the Serra do Salitre cheese, including raw
milk, “Pingo,” and rind and core cheese samples (Sant’Anna et al.,
2019). On the other hand, Pseudomonas was the most abundant
genus in raw milk samples. When considering the cheese core mi-
crobiota, Lactobacillaceae and Streptococcaceae families prevailed, with
Lactococcus, Streptococcus and Lactobacillus being the most abundant
genera. In the rind samples, Streptococcus was the most prevalent
genus, followed by Lactococcus. Still, in cheese rind samples, the
Planococcaceae family was predominant, indicating it may present a
significant function in the ripening process. Perin et al. (2017) ana-
lyzed Serra do Salitre cheese samples and found counts of 5.0, 6.2,
and 3.5 log CFU/g for mesophilic aerobes, LAB and coagulase-
positive cocci, respectively, while E. coli and total coliforms were
not detected. Authors also observed that, among LAB, Lactobacillus
spp. were the most predominant genus, identifying species such as
L. paracasei, L. brevis, L. plantarum, and L. rhamnosus. Finally, Lima
et al. (2009) identified Enterococcus spp., Lactococcus lactis, Enterococcus
faecalis, and Streptococcus agalactiae in samples of raw milk, “pingo,”
curd and fresh cheese during Serra do Salitre cheese production.
These authors also identified 35 different species of yeasts in these
samples, with Debaryomyces hansenii and Kluyveromyces lactis found
in all samples.
Southern region
Colonial cheese. Initially, the Colonial cheese was made by the
Azorean settlers; later, it was produced by the Germans and Italians
who had arrived in Brazil. The immigrants originally established
in the Serra Gaúcha and after in the Taquari Valley. At the be-
ginning of the 20th century, they migrated to the western region
of Santa Catarina, constituting the “colonies.” Thus, the term
“colonial” refers to the culture and tradition brought by immi-
grants from nonIberian Europe, to their way of life and their
agriculture (Wilkinson, Cerdan, & Dorigon, 2017). This product
was traditionally processed in rural properties for family consump-
tion, together with other food products such as jellies, salami and
pork products, jams, fruit juices, canned vegetables, pasta, biscuits,
among others (Bankuti et al., 2017). In the Brazilian legislation,
there is neither standardization of the techniques used for the pro-
duction of Colonial cheese nor Technical Regulation of Identity
and Quality of this type of cheese (Silva, da Silva, Tonial, & de
Castro-Cislaghi, 2015).
The Colonial cheese is made in the states of Rio Grande do
Sul and Santa Catarina. This product is made with raw milk from
European cows (Dutch and Jersey), which have high productivity.
The processing of Colonial cheese includes the steps of milk fil-
tration, the addition of salt (in milk or the mass), the addition of
rennet, coagulation, curd cutting, heating (30-45 °C), draining,
Vol. 0, 2019 r Comprehensive Reviews in Food Science and Food Safety 15
Brazilian artisanal cheeses . . .
molding, mechanical pressing, ripening, packaging, and market-
ing. It has a hard or semi-hard crust; the mass is compact with some
eyes, yellow coloration, soft and creamy, it is semi-fat and has a
slightly aromatic and spicy flavor. It is commercialized in pieces
of 0.7 to 5 kg, easily sliced and melted under heat. The ripening
time ranges between 30 and 75 days (Fava, Hernandes, Pinto, &
Schmidt, 2012). Colonial cheese chemical composition may vary
depending on the region due to the absence of legislation and
process standardization. The reported pH is 5.4, moisture content
of 43.7%, chlorides of 1.7%, fat content of 22.2% and protein of
28.6% (Table 1) (Ide & Benedet; 2001).
The microbiota of the Colonial cheese was characterized by the
prevalence of Lactococcus, followed by Lactobacillus and Leuconostoc
(Table 2) (Kamimura et al., 2019). However, samples of Colo-
nial cheese and raw milk from the Rio Grande do Sul state were
analyzed, and elevated populations of Staphylococcus and coliforms
were found. These results suggest milk and artisanal cheeses of
poor quality, even though L. monocytogenes and Salmonella spp.
were not recovered (Funck et al., 2015). Zaffari, Mello, and Costa
(2007) studied the microbiological quality of Colonial cheeses
sold in borders of coastal roads in Rio Grande do Sul (62 Colonial
cheese samples and 18 samples of other varieties), and observed
that 84% of the studied samples had thermotolerant coliforms
counts of 2.7 to 3.7 log CFU/g, 16% presented Listeria spp., being
3.7% L. monocytogenes. The presence of Brucella spp. was not ob-
served. Schmitt et al. (2011) verified the hygienic-sanitary quality
of Colonial cheeses (30 cheese samples from the Rio Grande do
Sul) and observed that 100% were not in conditions for human
consumption. These results were found because of the presence
of coagulase-positive Staphylococcus and thermotolerant coliforms
in populations that surpassed the microbiological standards estab-
lished by the Brazilian legislation for cheeses.
Serrano cheese. The history of Serrano cheese began in the
15th century when it was used as a bargaining product by the
troupes to have salt, sugar, cassava flour, among other foods. It is
produced exclusively by small family ranchers of the Serra Catari-
nense (Santa Catarina state) and the region of the Campos de
Cima da Serra (the Rio Grande do Sul state), with the tradition
of producing Serrano cheese for more than 200 years. The process
of cheese making is preserved by rural families, such as the use of
wood tools (Cruz & Menasche, 2014). However, some character-
istics have changed during the years, such as the cheese size and
the ripening time.
In the state of Rio Grande do Sul, the dairies used to make
Serrano cheese is located in the municipalities of Cambará do Sul,
Bom Jesus, Campestre da Serra, Ipê, Caxias do Sul, Monte Alegre
dos Campos, Jaquirana, São Francisco de Paula, Muitos Capões,
São José dos Ausentes, and Vacaria. These dairy plants must take
into account the preparation procedures and the requirements
set in the Technical Regulation of Identity and Quality of Ser-
rano Cheese (the Rio Grande do Sul, 2016). In Santa Catarina,
the municipalities are Ana Garibaldi, Urupema Bocaina do Sul,
Bom Retiro, Bom Jardim da Serra, Capão Alto, Campo Belo do
Sul, Cerro Negro, Lages,Correia Pinto, Palmeira, Otacı́lio Costa,
Painel, São Joaquim, Rio Rufino, Urubici, Ponte Alta, and São
José do Cerrito (Amarante, 2015). These regions are characterized
by high altitude (1000 m), distinct seasons with pronounced win-
ter (frost and even snow), native grasslands, and poor soils (Cruz
& Menasche, 2014).
Since 2009, the Agricultural Research Company and Rural
Extension of Santa Catarina (EPAGRI), together with the
Rio-Grandense Association of Technical Assistance and Rural
16 Comprehensive Reviews in Food Science and Food Safety r Vol. 0, 2019
Extension (EMATER) have a team of extensionists and researchers
working on a Serrano Artisanal Cheese Project (Córdova &
Schlickmann, 2015). It is a challenge, besides necessary, to grant
the Geographical Indication and the registration of Serrano cheese
as an immaterial and cultural Brazilian patrimony, as well as the
legalization of its production and commercialization, taking it out
of informality (Córdova & Schlickmann, 2015). In 2016, it was
approved the Law n. 14.973 of December 30, 2016 that supplies
the production and marketing of artisanal Serrano cheese in the
state of Rio Grande do Sul. This law endorses the production
of artisanal cheese in this state and defines some standards of
production and commercialization (the Rio Grande do Sul,
2016).
Serrano cheese is defined as a ripened product obtained by
enzymatic coagulation of raw milk through the use of industrial
rennet, and it is classified as medium moisture content, semi-fat
cheese, with fat content in the dry matter ranging from 25% to 44%
(Table 1) (the Rio Grande do Sul, 2016). Its production is carried
out on the property of milk origin, from fresh, whole, raw, and
safe milk. Artisanal dairies are small establishments, located in rural
properties with up to 250 m2 of built area, exclusively destined to
the manipulation of milk. Therefore, the purchase of milk or curd
is prohibited. The Serrano cheese has as obligatory ingredients the
milk, rennet, and sodium chloride, while the addition of other
ingredients is not allowed. Therefore, this type of cheese is not
added to commercial lactic cultures, preservatives, or additives
(Amarante, 2015). Moreover, a vital singularity of Serrano cheese
is the utilization of raw milk obtained from beef cattle breeds,
which eat native fields or improved pastures. This characteristic
is reflected in the production system, because these beef breeds
produce reduced amounts of milk, with a higher fat content,
which gives to Serrano cheese a buttery appearance (Almeida,
2007).
The processing of Serrano cheese comprises the following steps:
milk filtration, the addition of salt (in milk or the mass), the addi-
tion of rennet, coagulation, curd cutting, draining, manual press-
ing, molding, mechanical pressing, ripening, packaging, and mar-
keting (Almeida, 2007; Amarante, 2015). Usually, Serrano cheese
is eaten after 15 to 30 days of ripening when presenting a strong
taste (slightly acid, spicy and salty), typical aroma, a semi-hard mass,
and a yellowish color. This cheese is commercialized in urban areas
of the district, in small markets or directly by the cheese-producing
farmers (Cruz & Menasche, 2014).
Serrano cheese represents the primary funding source of 50% of
producers, and it is estimated that in the Serra Catarinense around
2000 producers are selling this type of cheese. On marketing, 53%
of cheeses produced are sold directly to consumers and the re-
maining to retailers (Córdova et al., 2014). However, besides the
economic, cultural and social significance of Serrano cheese, most
of its manufacture and commercialization are carried out infor-
mally, without sanitary inspection; and only a few producers have
the financial conditions to spend in new apparatus and structure
to meet the hygienic standards (Cruz & Menasche, 2014).
The consumers highly appreciate this cheese, but few data are
obtainable on the physicochemical and microbiological features of
this cheese (Rosa et al., 2008). Physicochemical changes during
Serrano cheese ripening include a important reduction of pH
through the first week, with values of 5.3 in summer and 5.1
in winter, and a considerable augment of pH between the first
and fourth ripening weeks during summer. Also, cheese moisture
decreases during this period, with noteworthy deviation between
the seasons studied; however, no significant variation in water

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Brazilian artisanal cheeses . . .
activity was detected, and NaCl concentration was low (Rosa
et al., 2008). Considering the microbiota, Leuconostoc, Lactobacillus
(L. acidophilus, L. curvatus, L. fermentum, L. paracasei, L. plantarum,
L. rhamnosus) and Lactococcus are prevalent in this type of cheese
(Table 2) (Delamare, Andrade, Mandelli, Almeida, & Echever-
rigaray, 2012; Kamimura et al., 2019; Pontarolo et al., 2017).
Lactobacillus was highly abundant during processing and ripening
process, particularly in the final stages of processing (Rosa et al.,
2008). Products with L. plantarum and L. casei presented higher
acceptance by the consumers (Delamare et al., 2012).
Potentially pathogenic microorganisms (S. aureus, Salmonella, E.
coli, and L. monocytogenes) were also identified in Serrano cheeses
(Delamare et al., 2012; Kamimura et al., 2019; Pontarolo et al.,
2017). Melo et al. (2013) evaluated the microbiological character-
istics of 108 Serrano cheese samples and observed that Salmonella
spp. was not detected, and Listeria spp. was isolated in 19.4% of
the samples, being 16.7% L. innocua and 2.8% L. monocytogenes.
Furthermore, 58.3% were positive for total coliforms, 59.3% were
positive for E. coli, and 33.3% presented >103 CFU/g of S. au-
reus. Delamare et al. (2012) evaluated 20 Serrano kinds of cheese
and observed mean values of 3.4 log CFU/g of thermotolerant
coliforms, 8.8 log CFU/g of mesophilic bacteria, 3.4 log CFU/g
of Staphylococcus, and 5.1 log CFU/g of molds and yeasts. The
presence of the pathogenic microorganisms demonstrates the de-
ficiency in the hygiene procedures in the preparation of the cheeses
and make the cheeses unfit for consumption.
Regulations of Cheeses in Brazil, with Particular
Focus on Artisanal Types
The regulation concerning the production and commercial-
ization of cheeses in Brazil has been modified in the last years.
Technical regulations for the identification and quality parameters
of cheeses, in general, are preconized on the Ordinance n. 146 of
March 7, 1996 (Brazil, 1996). This ordinance recommends that
the milk used in cheese production must be obtained by suit-
able mechanical devices and subjected to pasteurization or similar
heat treatment. The exceptions to mandatory heat treatment ap-
ply only for milk used in cheese making of products ripened at
a temperature above 5 °C for at least 60 days. The mandatory
ripening when using raw milk was considered an obstacle for the
commercialization of traditional artisanal cheeses because it would
compromise the historical and social aspects of cheese-making as
well as the chemical, sensorial and microbiological characteristics
of these products. Some artisanal cheeses, when submitted to a
long ripening period (i.e., 60 days), may become very hard and
with a bitter taste, resulting in reduced consumer acceptance and
de-characterization of the product.
Law n. 1.283 of December 18, 1950, made mandatory the prior
inspection and monitoring of environments of cheese making and
retail, considering technical and sanitary aspects for all animal ori-
gin products, including cheeses (Brazil, 1950). Also, to be approved
for retail in other Brazilian states, cheeses must present the Federal
Inspection System (SIF) seal.
Since the Minas Gerais state is the major artisanal cheese-maker
in Brazil and many types of cheese are manufactured in the differ-
ent producing microregions, the Minas Gerais government issued
state regulations, such as the State Law n. 14.185 of January 31,
2002 (Minas Gerais, 2002); the Ordinance n. 44.864 of August
1, 2008 (Minas Gerais, 2008); and the State Law n. 19.492 of
January 13, 2011 (Minas Gerais, 2011). These regulations estab-
lish the identification and classification of Mina’s artisanal cheeses,

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procedures for manufacturing, quality and suitability for consump-
tion, installations, equipment technical characteristics, certificates
for marketing, rules for transportation, and packaging possibilities.
The commercialization of cheeses ripened for less than 60 days
would only be allowed when their moisture content was <54.9%
(Minas Gerais, 2002). Later, in 2008, the maximum moisture con-
tent required for commercialization of cheeses ripened for less than
60 days was reduced to 45.9% (Minas Gerais, 2008). Despite these
changes, it should be highlighted that these were Minas Gerais state
regulations, and not applicable to interstate marketing of Mina’s
artisanal cheeses.
Concerned about the extinction of artisanal cheeses in Brazil,
cheese producers, academics, public and private entities partici-
pated in the 1st Symposium of Brazilian Artisanal Cheeses, held in
November 2011 in Fortaleza, Ceará - Brazil. After this conference,
the Ministry of Agriculture, Livestock and Food Supply issued new
guidelines for this sector through the Normative Instruction n. 57
of December 15, 2011 (Brazil, 2011). The new regiment allowed
artisanal cheeses traditionally made from raw milk to be ripened
for less than 60 days when technical and scientific studies prove
that reducing the ripening period did not compromise the quality
and safety of the product. The definition of a new ripening period
would be carried out by a specific normative act, after the evalua-
tion of these studies by a technical-scientific committee designated
by the Ministry of Agriculture, Livestock and Food Supply. There-
fore, although there was a permission to produce artisanal cheeses
ripened for less than 60 days, the SIF seal was still mandatory for
interstate commercialization of artisanal cheeses (Brazil, 1950).
Subsequently, the Normative Instruction n. 30 of August 07,
2013 (Brazil, 2013), replaced the Normative Instruction n. 57
of December 15, 2011 (Brazil, 2011), comprising the current
legislation for artisanal cheeses made in Brazil. This new Norma-
tive Instruction promoted the relaxation of the certification pro-
cess for artisanal cheese-makers, interested in selling their product
throughout the national territory. The main differences observed
in the new Normative Instruction were: (1) the definition of the
ripening period can be made after the evaluation of the studies
by the state and/or municipal, industrial and sanitary inspection
service recognized by the Brazilian System of Inspection of Prod-
ucts of Animal Origin - SISBI/POA; (2) the commercialization
by producers is allowed if have the cattle were controlled for bru-
cellosis and tuberculosis by the state entities of Animal Health
Defense for at least 3 years from the date of publication of the
Normative Instruction; and (3) the implementation of Mastitis
Control Program with the conduction of examinations for detec-
tion of the disease is preconized, but without pre-fixed periodicity
(Pimentel, Oliveira, & Cruz, 2017).
Recently, the Law n° 13.680 of June 14, 2018 (Brazil, 2018) was
approved, which amends the Law n° 1.283 of December 18, 1950,
and creates a state seal, so-called ARTE. The ARTE seal identifies
products of artisanal origin that can be commercialized throughout
the country. This new seal is granted by the public health entities
of each state, simplifying the cataloging requirements of small and
medium producers. Thus, a product with the ARTE seal may
be commercialized over the country following the ripening rules
enforced by the Normative Instruction n. 57 of December 15,
2011 (Brazil, 2011)
In addition to the previously mentioned legislation, some states
have specific guidelines that regulate the production, identity, and
quality of their artisanal cheeses. In the Pará state, the Ordinance n.
418 of February 26, 2013 (ADEPARÁ, 2013), details the techni-
cal regulation for Marajó cheese production, with the procedures
Brazilian artisanal cheeses . . .
adopted during the cheese manufacture and the physical-chemical
and microbiological quality parameters of the final product. In
2018, the Ordinance n° 007 of January 4th (ADAGRO, 2018)
regulating the identity and quality parameters of artisanal curd
cheeses produced in the state of Pernambuco was issued. In the
state of Mato Grosso do Sul, the Law n. 2.820 of May 4, 2004,
approaches the production process of Caipira artisanal cheese, as
well as the hygienic-sanitary quality required (Mato Grosso do
Sul, 2004). Regarding Mina’s artisanal cheeses, the Ordinance n.
818 of December 28, 2006 (IMA, 2006), and the Ordinance n.
1837 of July 5, 2018 (IMA, 2018), approve the physical-chemical
and microbiological criteria, respectively, that these cheeses must
comply. The Ordinance n. 32 of November 7, 2018, approves
the internal regulation for Colonial cheese in the Santa Catarina
state. This ordinance establishes the manufacturing stages, and the
physicochemical and microbiological parameters required for the
final product (Santa Catarina, 2018). Finally, the Law 14.973 of
December 29, 2016, provides the production and marketing of
artisanal Serrano cheese in the Rio Grande do Sul state (the Rio
Grande do Sul, 2016).
Concluding Remarks and Perspectives
This review describes the main artisanal cheeses produced in
Brazil, the historical and cultural connections with their produc-
ing regions or microregions, the particularities of the making pro-
cess and available information about the characteristics of each
cheese. Several cheeses have been produced in the country, char-
acterized and their producing regions recognized by governmental
bodies. However, it is known that more than 30 types of artisanal
cheeses and producing regions exist in Brazil in the more diverse
biomes. For several of them, the production and consumption are
still limited or formal recognition as artisanal cheese producing
region was not achieved yet. On the other hand, for the artisanal
cheeses produced in other areas, there is a lack of chemical, sensory
composition and microbiological data.
Overall, detailed information about the main characteristics of
the Brazilian artisanal cheeses are limited as most of the chemical
and microbiological data available comprise centesimal compo-
sition and culture-dependent methods, respectively. Despite this,
the high variability of the physicochemical data has been generally
found, which indicates that raw materials and processing practices
may vary significantly among batches and even among dairy farms.
Moreover, insightful characterization of sensorial properties and
consumer behavior towards Brazilian artisanal cheeses have been
barely found. Revealing these properties, as well the steps and fac-
tors that result in the desired characteristics of the final products,
is of particular interest for preserving the historical aspects and
traditional characteristics of these products.
Another critical characteristic of Brazilian artisanal cheeses re-
lates to their microbiological aspects. Microbiological data based
on culture-dependent methods have been found, even though in
several cases, the sampling strategy could be considered limited.
Despite this, culture-dependent methods combined with advanced
approaches of characterization can be strategic to bioprospecting
LAB with probiotic properties, flavor enhancer, starter cultures,
among others, present in the Brazilian artisanal cheeses. Addition-
ally, recent advances have been made towards the understanding
of the microbial diversity present in Brazilian artisanal cheeses
through the use of culture-independent methods (such as based
on 16S rRNA gene sequencing). Nevertheless, these methods are
decisive not only for revealing the microbial diversity in raw ma-
terials, processing premises, and final products, but also to gain in-
18 Comprehensive Reviews in Food Science and Food Safety r Vol. 0, 2019
sights on the microbial dynamics during ripening/storage and their
association with processing practices, producing regions, chemical
properties of Brazilian artisanal cheeses. Also, as some Brazilian
artisanal cheeses are made from raw milk and ripened for less
than 60 days, studies are required to assess the fate of zoonotic
and foodborne pathogens during ripening as well as the growth
potential (specifically of foodborne pathogens) during their shelf-
life. The certification of a geographical indication for Brazilian
artisanal cheeses encompasses another highly important milestone
for adding value to these products. Canastra and Serro Mina’s
cheeses have already received a geographical indication, but this is
still pending for most of the other Brazilian artisanal cheeses.
Regardless of their significance in the diet, culture, and econ-
omy of producing regions, taken together, the reviewed literature
discloses the need of insightful studies to generate scientific data
to support the expansion of the market, while ensuring the pro-
tection of historic aspects related to the production of Brazilian
artisanal cheeses.
Acknowledgments
This work was supported by São Paulo Research Founda-
tion (FAPESP) (Grants: #2013/20456-9 and #2014/14891-7),
National Council for Scientific and Technological Develop-
ment (CNPq) (Grants: #403865/2013-1, #302763/2014-7 and
#305804/2017-0). This study was financed, in part, by the
Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nı́vel Superior -
Brasil (CAPES) - Finance Code 001.
Conflict of Interest
The authors declare no conflict of interest.
Authors’ Contributions
ASS and BAK contributed to plan, write and to prepare the
first version of the manuscript. MM and FBC contributed to
write and with the revision of the drafts of the manuscript. BAK
designed the figures and built the tables. FBC, VOA, TCP, AGC,
BOP, and WAL contributed to write and revising the drafts of the
manuscript. All authors revised and approved the final version of
the manuscript.
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