PRESENTS

The ultimate guide to

EXTENDING
YOURHOME
How to get
an extension
right first time
❯ INSPIRING IDEAS
❯ EXPERT ADVICE
❯ COST INFORMATION
❯ DESIGN INSPIRATION

PROJECT MASTERCLASS

Digital
FOURTH
EDITION
Edition
 WELCOME
If you’re thinking of extending your own home, this book is for you. We’ve spent decades writing
about the different elements of home extension projects at Homebuilding & Renovating and this
Ultimate Guide to Extending Your Own Home is the first time we have gathered all of our wisdom
into one place.

Our guide is split into several key sections to follow the process that most homeowners face. Is an
extension necessary and worthwhile? Are there other options? Where can I extend, and how much will
it cost? Once I’ve decided to extend, what next? Who should I speak to? How will the project
be managed? And so on.

Having been through several serious building projects, from a major extension and remodel through
to a complete new self-build home, we can relate to the issues you face. Above all, homeowners often
lack high quality independent expertise, relying instead on designers and builders, all of whom have
vested interests in steering your project one way or the other.

Picking up this book gives you a unique opportunity to become a fully skilled-up home extender —
and given the potential for your home extension to change your life, it is a small price to pay to help
you navigate this often scary and confusing once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Jason Orme
Managing Director, Homebuilding & Renovating

CONTENTS
12 SHOULD YOU EXTEND? 38 SIZING IT UP 62 FINDING BUILDERS 126 ROOFLIGHTS
Is extending the right call? How big is too big? How to find the best A guide to vertical light

18 ASSESSING FEASIBILITY 42 WHERE TO START 68 ULTIMATE COST GUIDE 128 FLOORING

FRONT COVER IMAGE: SIMON MAXWELL AND JOE TRAYLEN PHOTOGRAPHY

Working out costs vs value How to begin the process A detailed guide to costs Choosing the best for you

23 FINANCING THE PROJECT 44 ESTIMATING COSTS 74 CONTRASTING EXTENSIONS 132 KITCHENS

How to fund your extension Initial ideas on budgets Design guide Design & build guide

26 WHERE TO EXTEND? 46 GETTING IT DESIGNED 80 THINKING OUTSIDE THE BOX 139 UNDERFLOOR HEATING
Side, rear or something else? The process explained Terrace extension project How to install it

32 KNOCKING THROUGH 52 PLANNING APPROVAL 96 INTO THE BLUE 140 ROOFING

How to tackle removing walls Do you need planning? Contemporary extension Design guide for extenders

34 WHICH EXTENSION? 56 LIVING WITH EXTENDING 102 WORKING FROM HOME 143 EXTERIOR FINISHES
Single or double? On-site basics explained Extension and garden office Which cladding to use?

37 SHOULD YOU REMODEL? 60 WHO WILL BUILD IT? 118 PATIO DOORS 145 OUTSIDE
Why extending might not work Project management routes How to choose correctly A guide to garden design

EXTENSIONS 9
ASSESSING
THE PROJECT
Before you start, it’s worth taking some time to check
that an extension is the right project for you
❯ Extend or Remodel?
❯ Assessing Costs vs Value

❯ Financing

EXTENSIONS 11
 Do you
really
need to
EXTEND?
Photography: Katie Lee

Don’t rush into an extension project without

considering all the other possibilities first

12 EXTENSIONS
An extension can totally transform
your home, but a lack of space
isn’t necessarily the most common
problem to solve in older homes —
so consider your options first

EXTENSIONS 13
14 EXTENSIONS
 Extensions are expensive, disruptive and risky. You will be instigating a
major building project, probably for the first time, and dealing with all sorts
of decisions, regardless of how much trust you invest in a builder, that you
may be ill-qualified to take on. You’ll be spending most likely one of the
largest sums you’ve ever spent on a project you know next to nothing about
and relying on a handful of experts, if that, to get you through.
So why do it? Why put yourself through all of that? The irony is that, for
some people, an extension is well down on the list of most suitable home
improvement projects that they should undertake and, save knocking the
whole thing down and starting again, should be the project of last resort —
given all the above.

Should you extend or remodel?

Let’s examine the basics. We extend, clearly, when we don’t have enough
space. But that raises the key issue — and highlights the main mistake so
many people make: is it additional space you need, or is what’s in your
mind (for example, an open plan kitchen with living and eating functions,
overlooking the garden) a space that you can create from what you already
have? The number one extension project is to create a bigger kitchen. Also,
the biggest disparity between homes built before 2000 and what we want
now isn’t the number of rooms or the size of the houses — it’s the size of the
rooms, and in particular the size of the kitchen. Look at any home not of
the 21st century and the rear flank kitchen just cannot satisfy our insatiable
demand as British homeowners for the large open living/eating kitchen.
But let’s take another look at the floorplans of those houses. What’s that
large (often larger) room next to the kitchen? The dining room, of course
— invariably used as an office/storage space cleared out for a Christmas
dinner. Then there’s the lounge, often already ‘knocked through’ to create a
large living space, often only half engaged in providing a quality cosy area.
Let’s then take a look at what the market demands — which, so the market
suggests, is the type of home created by developers, who despite it all are
experts in understanding consumer demand and creating homes built for it.
The typical size of those homes is no bigger – arguably smaller, in fact – than
the homes we have been building for decades and probably centuries.
Our families have shrunk, on the whole, over the years, and the number of
bedrooms in our homes certainly hasn’t. There is no large scale shortage of
bedroom space in our homes, certainly nothing worse than we had before.
What this all points to is not that our homes have suddenly become too
small, but that our expectations of them have changed. There can be little
doubt that the huge increase in the number of home extension projects
over the past 20 years has coincided with the explosion in interest in home
design – magazines, websites, Pinterest, TV shows from Changing Rooms
to Grand Designs. We are all much more conscious of our homes now than
ever, and we all aspire to the type of spaces we see everywhere, in other
people’s homes.
So let’s get to the point. An extension should only ever be considered once
all other options for remodelling the existing space have been dismissed. For
the sake of £1,500-£3,000 per wall (removed, reinforced and made good),
could your dream open living/eating kitchen be achieved a lot easier? Open
up into the dining room and steal a bit from the large living room, if you
have one? If you need an extra bedroom, could you use the loft space? It will
almost certainly be cheaper than building new space.
If there is no way that you – or, preferably, a consulted experienced
designer – can work out how to get you there without creating more space,
then you’re on the path to extending. And, as a result of the process of
agonising over whether you really need to extend or not, the happy news
Photography; Fiona Walker-Arnott

is that you’re already on the way to creating a proper viability plan for your
extension project.
Open-plan kitchen
dining spaces can be Creating a plan
created just as easily As anyone who works in almost any job knows, the use of targets,
by removing walls
between dining rooms
monitoring and performance indicators is one of the things we all have to
and kitchens rather live with and plan our working lives around. It’s hardly what we lie awake at
than extending night dreaming of applying to our home life, but stealing a little bit of this

EXTENSIONS 15
 annoying office habit can work wonders for your home project.
Why? Because it helps to give your project a focus, and keep it on track
— and you can use the targets you set as a guideline to assess every single
decision against. What should those targets be? Well, you already have them,
but the key is getting them down on paper.
Clearly, some of them are going to be very pragmatic – how much you
want to spend, for instance – but others, particularly the ones based on
design, will be a little more abstract. It’s really important at this early stage to
get them out and put them down on paper.
These are the things that you have in your head when you imagine the
project complete — the reason you’re doing it. They’re often little lifestyle
snippets, and might be one or some of the following:

❯ family together in a large kitchen, you cooking, the family eating;

❯ lazy Sunday spring morning, drinking coffee and enjoying the sun;
❯ getting cosy watching television on a December evening.

One or more of these might apply to you. It’s now time to go deeper into
that mental image — what do you see? If it’s the third scenario is there a
fire? A stove? How big is the room? If it’s the first on the list, how does the
family interact? Is there an island? Where do the kids sit?
Turning these abstract lifestyle-driven wishes into hard, practical
illustrations of what you want to do in the home is the only way a designer
can hope to create a home in which to do them — and to enable you to
Extensions are the assess if the project is going to be a success or not. Every single decision you
most expensive way make, and how you assess the plans your designer creates — all of it is going
of transforming your
to be a factor of these initial aspirations, so get them down.
home — remodelling
and using ‘unused’ The projects that end in failure tend to fail because they don’t have a clear
space such as attics set of priorities or even a sense of what they’re trying to achieve. The best
should always be the reason for bringing these lifestyle aspirations into sharp focus is that they
Photography: Will Pryce, Mulroy Architects, Rachael Smith

first option give you a chance to see if the plans you have allow you to get what you
want. Where will you sit and have that Sunday 11am coffee, and what will
you be looking at?
Upstairs, practical requirements like extra bedrooms are fairly
straightforward to assess, but think a bit deeper. How big do the bedrooms
need to be? Do they allow for wardrobe space, and ideally for some form
of living space? Even children like to be able to sit in the bedroom itself
and have a bit of time to themselves, so work out where a little set of chairs
might go, for instance.
Ultimately what you want to do in this early feasibility/scoping process
is to work out whether the things that you want the house to do for you are
best achieved through an extension, and if so, what rough size of project this
is going to be — or whether you need to extend at all.

EXTENSIONS 17
 ESTABLISHING
Having decided to extend, it’s now time for the project
planning to get serious. Scoping out your project means
ensuring it makes sense for the house and you, and
means researching the potential ways to extend, how

AN EXTENSION’S much the house can take, and whether it all makes sense
financially. Having established that, it’s now a question
of deciding what extension solution is the best way to
move the house forward.

VIABILITY For those looking for more space and perhaps an

improved lifestyle, the single storey rear (and perhaps
side) extension is the most common project. Depending
on the size of the existing rear of the house, this will
Scoping out your project means weighing mean potentially adding 3-4m projecting from the rear,
either fully across the width or out purely from the
up costs against potential value added, kitchen, and quite possibly along one side of the house
— the so-called ‘side return’ extension, which often
and much more besides only moves the width of the house out about 1m into
a side alley, but can make a significant difference to the
perception of space.
Clearly, the bigger the requirement for space, the
Assessing how much bigger the potential scale of the project — including, for
an extension will add extra bedrooms, a double storey extension. Depending
to your home’s value is
on the existing house, this could be a side extension
important regardless
of how long you intend (for detached or semi-detached homes, perhaps over an
to live there — at existing garage) or a rear two storey extension.
least make sure you At this stage you might be beginning to worry about
get your costs back the scale of the project and if it’s feasible — perhaps,
mistakenly, beginning to take some basic advice on
potential constraints and limitations (everything from
the potential spans of steel joists to the positions of
drains). Let’s be clear — it’s possible to achieve absolutely
anything on your home as long as it has planning consent
and complies with the Building Regulations. Building
technology allows you to deal with almost any problem
that extending an old house might throw at you. The
question for you as a would-be home extender is how
far you’re willing to go (usually down to money) to solve
the problem. Walls can be knocked down, drains can be
bridged or even diverted, steels can do all sorts of things
— the house can even be knocked down and rebuilt in its
new form. The limit is what makes sense financially.
On that basis, there are two really important things to
do when considering an extension project. Firstly, talk
to a builder (rather than a designer). The builders will
be able to give you a sense of the typical solutions for
houses of your type and almost certainly have carried
out similar projects in the local neighbourhood. They
will be able to guide you on some of the practical issues
you might be worried about (e.g. drains) and help
you get an initial sense of what the project might cost.
Photography: Katie Lee

Designers will be essential at some part of the project,

but not yet. These are not individual self-build projects
and bar the very few totally unique extension schemes,
most are simple, practical and largely templated
solutions to common house types and common spatial

18 EXTENSIONS
While additional
bedrooms offer
the best returns on
extension investment,
extra dining and living
space can help the
home sell in the future

EXTENSIONS 19
 needs. At this stage you’re trying to get a sense of the feasibility of extending
from an engineering and construction perspective, and no one is better
placed than a builder for that.
Having established the constructional possibility of extending and ideally
achieved an approximate idea of costs, the other important first step to
ensuring the project is feasible is to talk to an estate agent. They will give
you a sense of the potential uplift in value you’ll enjoy from the proposed
extension and hopefully guide you on some solutions they have seen on
similar houses. At the same time if you need to borrow additional funds
to finance the project, they’ll give you a sense of the home’s current value.
Given that it’s Britain’s most popular extension project, the single storey
kitchen extension actually doesn’t tick many boxes from an estate agent’s
point of view and measuring the value it adds can be difficult to identify. It
doesn’t fit into the main criteria for adding value, which is adding bedrooms.
Turning a two bedroom home into a three bedroom home offers the best
returns, with a fourth bedroom on a three bedroom home almost as good.
Adding bedrooms beyond the fourth offers lower marginal returns, but still
has a quantifiable benefit — think that all-important Rightmove search.
Photography: Getty Images/ Calaimage/Charlie
Extension costs
vary across the UK,
mainly affected by
variations in labour
prices. The South East
is particularly badly
affected
Dean, Richard Parsons
20 EXTENSIONS
Adding space to existing rooms doesn’t help from
a pure room list perspective, but it will add value, in
most cases at least as much as it costs to have carried
out. There is also the sense, particularly in urban and
suburban areas with similar house types, that some
buyers will only look for the houses that have been
‘done’. Also, in tight urban areas with high house prices
(i.e. most of the UK but particularly in the South),
house values tend to be measured on a £/m2 basis –
judged on space rather than the number of rooms.
Either way, the key is to ensure that the value will
increase by at least as much as your builder thinks you
might spend on the project.
That’s all very well, but how much should your builder
be quoting for an extension project? Firstly, be very wary
about anyone giving too detailed an estimate at this
early stage. An estimate is no more than a guess based
on limited information and effectively worthless until
you go to quote stage, which is a fully-fledged cost offer
based on the facts of the construction project in detail.
All of the decisions you will end up making, from the
kitchen to the provision (or not) of underfloor heating,
from the sliding doors to the lighting, will affect costs.
And if your builder doesn’t know this, the estimate is no
more than a finger in the air.
With that in mind, it’s only really worth knowing
what other similar-scale projects cost in your area.
Regional variations will not have an impact on the 50%
of the build cost typically accounted for by materials,
but they will impact on the remaining costs — labour.
So someone building in an area with a limited supply of
builders and tradespeople in high demand would expect
prices to be higher than in an area where several hungry
builders are fighting for limited work.
All that said, what we’re really after is a good initial
idea of costs to establish the feasibility of a scheme.
Someone carrying out a fairly standard single storey
extension project, managed on their behalf by a builder,
should be looking to allow £2,000-£2,500/m2 for the
finished scheme, with a two storey extension costing
slightly less (on account of more cheaper space) at
around £1,850-£2,250/m2.
In certain parts of the South and high value areas of
the UK – affected by higher costs of living – this you
could easily be paying £3,000/m2, particularly on smaller
schemes. That makes an 8x4m kitchen extension a
£64-£80,000 project; a two storey extension on the same
footprint around £119-£144,000. But, as we’ve established,
these figures are there to be broken depending on the
chosen specification and the build route.
What all of this early-stage research does is to really
sanity check the viability of extending. Can it physically
be done? Does it make financial sense based on the best
guess at costs? All you need now is to finalise the design
and gain planning approval — easy!
The value that
extensions can add
to a house is just one
measure of why you
might do it. Extra light,
and greater enjoyment
of the house, are
the more important
elements

EXTENSIONS 21
 HOW TO
FINANCE AN
EXTENSION
PROJECT
For those not lucky enough
to pay for a project from their
savings, there are a range
of ways to borrow the funds
required for an extension
There are several options for those looking to finance an extension project,
which is most likely to run into the £10,000s, if not more — assuming you’re
not lucky enough to have the money lying down the back of the sofa.
Extend the mortgage
The cheapest option in most cases is to go back to your existing mortgage
provider and look to borrow the money as an extension to the original
amount. This is commonly referred to as remortgaging. For example, if you
have an outstanding mortgage of £100,000 on a house valued at £300,000
and wanted to borrow £80,000 to extend the home, you would need to
consolidate the two borrowing products together into a new mortgage. Most
lenders would allow you to continue your original borrowing on the original
rate while taking out the extra £80,000 as part of the same mortgage (but on
the new rates terms).
The restrictions on this are based on the same criteria that you would have
been subject to when originally taking out the mortgage. These would be
affordability based, with consideration as to the current value of the home.
You clearly couldn’t borrow more than the home is currently worth (the added
value wouldn’t be considered) and the rate would increase the higher the loan
to value (LTV) amount. So it’s a good solution for someone who has spent a
few years in a home paying the mortgage down who has also perhaps seen
increases in personal income. It is likely to be the cheapest way to borrow the
money, but it would be limited to the home’s existing value.
Specialist renovation mortgages
Specially designed for those taking on homes in need of improvement
and extension that need significant work, specialist renovation mortgages
release in stages and approach the project taking into account the home’s full
development potential. So, for example, you would be able to borrow up to
85-90% of the house cost, and then an additional 85-90% of the projected
extension/renovation costs. You would need to provide a fully costed
schedule of works and, of course, the end value of the house would need to
be safely above the combination of purchase and build costs. This is a market
dominated by smaller lenders, so you will need to approach a specialist
broker — try BuildStore.
Loan
Unsecured loans are an easy way to access relatively low amounts and can be
accessed quickly. These amounts wouldn’t usually cover a full extension cost but
could be used to top up privately funded schemes. Interest rates vary but tend to
be over 5% for loans in excess of £10,000, so are not the cheapest way to borrow.
Bridging finance
A short term option for those who can’t access funding elsewhere would
be to consider bridging finance. Working on the premise that someone will
always lend you money, it is just a question of how much and at what price.
Bridging finance companies specialise in lending money on projects that
have low current values and the money will be used for short term value
fixes. Extensions can fall into this category, but it is far from ideal and the
rates are very high — often 1-1.5% a month.
Next steps
Image: Getty
Each individual’s circumstance is different and as a result it’s very important
to get independent financial advice on the best options for you.
EXTENSIONS 23
DESIGN
The key to a successful extension project is getting the
design right — both in terms of look and the process itself

❯ Where to Extend
❯ Knocking Through

❯ How Many Storeys?

❯ Sizes: How Big is Big Enough?

EXTENSIONS 25
 SINGLE STOREY
REAR EXTENSION
This is the most
common extension
type, and the cheapest
to create. Often carried
out within Permitted
Development rights, it
is often used to connect
new open plan kitchens
to the garden

Different
Extension
Styles
Explained
A visual guide to common extension types

26 EXTENSIONS
EXTENSIONS 27
28 EXTENSIONS
OAK FRAME EXTENSION
A brilliant way to add instant
character to a home, or
create extra space in keeping
with a period property

EXTENSIONS 29
30 EXTENSIONS
Photography: Paul Craig
KITCHEN EXTENSION
This successful kitchen
extension relies on an
open plan layout and
uses the fact that it is
single storey to introduce
vertical light from above

EXTENSIONS 31
 REMOVING
INTERNAL
WALLS
A modest remodelling task can
transform the feel of the space —
but approach with caution
Removing internal walls creates
extra light and the feeling of extra
Photography: Katie Lee, Richard Parsons
space — and whether you’re
extending or remodelling, the
costs are probably less than you
might assume
32 EXTENSIONS
For those of us trying to transform older homes, with their greater number of
smaller rooms, into homes fit for our more modern lifestyles, the removal of
internal walls is something we’re going to have to address. It’s not a particularly
difficult job, but it does need approaching correctly, not just to ensure your
home doesn’t develop an alarming lean afterwards (never a good thing) but
also to ensure you maximise the benefits of the ‘opening up.’ Here’s how.
Which walls?
In short, you can remove any internal wall — it’s just a matter of how.
The impact it has on the rest of the home and, therefore, the amount of
work you’ll need to carry out, depends on whether it carries the weight of
any walls above, or performs any other structural function. Removing a
structural wall will cost more and require more in the way of associated
works (such as adding in piers and beams elsewhere to ensure the structural
integrity of the home) but from a design point of view it shouldn’t put you
off. Indeed one of the most common form of domestic building projects –
the side return and rear extension – relies on structural walls being removed
and replaced elsewhere. So don’t start from the position of worrying about
structural walls — that’s what structural engineers are paid to do…
The process
Depending on the scale of the job, you’ll have either engaged with a builder
or a designer to scope out the project. If it’s just a simple knockthrough –
joining two rooms into one larger one – then there isn’t a lot of design work
involved and you might as well engage directly with builders. If it’s part of
a larger scheme and the remodelling has several implications, a designer
is probably the best place to start. Either way, next you need a structural
engineer — the builder or designer will usually be able to put you in touch
with someone they have used in the past. Regardless of whether the walls
are internal partitions (stud) or load bearing, the structural engineer will
need to ensure that the structural integrity of the house is maintained.
The building work
If you’re removing load-bearing structural walls, you’ll need to insert a beam to
take the loading. This is usually steel, and the structural engineer will calculate
the size (as in depth and width) of the steel beam (usually referred to as an
RSJ, or rolled steel joist) needed to hold the weight. They will also calculate the
positions of any piers (to support the beam, like a goalpost) and associated
works. Non-structural walls can be removed without any compensating
measures bar making good at walls, ceiling and floor.
As the span required gets larger, the depth of the steel beam will be bigger,
and in some cases this can result in the downstand (the protrusion of the beam
into the room below) being quite significant. Ensure that you ask your structural
engineer to allow for it to be hidden, where possible, in the floor structure above
— it can save valuable inches on headheight and looks a lot better.
Costs
For a ‘typical’ opening up project, removing a load-bearing wall of around
5m width, builders would typically quote between £1,400-£2,800 + VAT.
This typically comprises temporary support of the structure (through Acrow
props and ‘strong boy’ masonry supports), demolition, building in of required
padstones and supports for the new structural steelwork (rolled steel joist),
insertion of the RSJ, fireproofing (typically one layer of fireboard or two layers of
plasterboard), a skim coat of gypsum plaster and making good finishes at wall,
floor and ceiling junctions. Structural engineers will cost £400-£1,100 + VAT.
EXTENSIONS 33
 HOW TO ADD A
TWO-STOREY
EXTENSION
Looking for more space but want to stay
in your home? Adding a two-storey
extension can be a cost-effective solution
Often cheaper than moving house and more budget-efficient than building
a single-storey extension, a two-storey addition hands you the potential to
create that extra space you need. Whether you want to create a more fluid,
open plan downstairs and add bedrooms upstairs, or extend your kitchen
and create a master suite on the first floor, it can give you the opportunity
to reconfigure a space and transform how you live in your home. It’s a great
opportunity to really change how your house looks from the outside, too.
Calculating costs
A two-storey extension often gives you double the space of a single-storey
addition, but the cost of the foundations and the roof are pretty much
comparable for both build types, meaning the money spent per m2 is less with
a two-storey addition.
The cost of your two-storey extension will be determined by a number
of factors, including size and build quality. So, before you start planning
your design, here’s a guide to what you are likely to pay, per m2:
❯ If you’re extending on a tight budget, expect to pay £1,450 to
£1,800/m2 for basic quality.
❯ For a good quality double-storey extension, you’ll pay between  If you do build a two-storey extension under PD
£1,850 and £2,250/m2.
❯ For a high spec extension, calculate spending between £1,900
and £2,750/m2 or more.
On top of the build costs, you may need to factor in:
❯ Architects’ fees (around 7-15% of construction costs).
❯ Project management (up to around 20% of the net build cost).
❯ Planning application fees (currently £206 in England plus £28 planning
portal fee for online submission, but check with your local authority).
❯ Measured survey costs (between £500-£1,500).
❯ Structural engineer design (£500-£1,000).
❯ Building control charges (check with your local authority).
❯ Party Wall Agreements (£1,000-£2,000 per neighbour for a straightforward
agreement outside London).
❯ Additional costs depending on site location and features (check your local
authority validation checklist) might include a tree survey and report; a flood
risk assessment (both £250 upwards); an ecology report (from £400); an
34 EXTENSIONS
archaeological report (possibly) and a heritage impact
statement in the event that the building is listed.
Remember to consider VAT at 20% for labour, materials
and services. If your individual subcontractors turn over
less than the VAT threshold, they won’t charge you any
VAT on labour, which can be a big cost saving.
Planning permission: the rules
While it is possible to build a two-storey extension
under Permitted Development (PD) rights, it is very
likely that you will need planning permission as the
rules are restrictive — obviously much more so than
building a single-storey extension.
The criteria include:
❯ Two-storey extensions must not extend beyond the
rear wall of the ‘original house’ by more than 3m. (The
term ‘original house’ means either as it was on 1 July
1948 or when it was built. In Northern Ireland it is as
it was built or as it was on 1 October 1973.)
❯ There are restrictions on height: no part of the
extension can be higher than the existing house.
❯ Two-storey extensions must not be closer than 7m to
the rear boundary.
❯ It must be built in the same or similar material to the
existing dwelling.
❯ Extensions must not go forward of the building line
of the original dwelling.
❯ An extension must not result in more than half the
garden being covered.
These PD rights apply to houses and relate to
planning in England. However, if you live in a
designated land, in a conservation area for example, then
you can’t build a rear two-storey extension under PD at
all and will need to go down the planning route.
rights, then it’s well worth applying for a Lawful
Development Certificate. This is not a planning
application — you are seeking a legal determination that
your scheme does not need planning. This is particularly
beneficial when you come to sell the property.
And Building Regulations?
Any extension project will need to comply with Building
Regulations. You will need to submit an application for the
work to your local authority’s building control department.
Some subcontractors (such as electricians) are self-certified,
which means they can carry out work without the need to
involve the building control department.
The design
Adding a two-storey extension to your house does
present several design challenges, and this is an area
where an architect, architectural technician or architectural designer can
be invaluable to your project. Design considerations often include: the
height of your new extension and its impact on both the existing house
and surrounding properties, deciding whether to opt for a complementary
or contrasting extension, how to introduce natural light into the heart of
an extended home, and how the new spaces created will relate to existing
rooms.
The height
Planners usually require extensions to be sympathetic to the existing house,
particularly in designated areas such as conservation areas. As such, it’s
fairly typical that the ridge height of the extension can be no higher than
the existing roof. “Planning authorities typically look for an extension to
be subservient to the existing dwelling, so two-storey extensions may need
lower roofs,” says Carl Huntley, Director of Base Architecture & Design.
What’s more, adding a two-storey extension to the full width of the
building, particularly to attached homes, or those in close proximity to
neighbouring homes, requires consideration, as architect Adrian Gracia,
from Adrian Gracia Architects, explains: “Extending to the full potential
of the site will generally need the upper level to be stepped back if you
do not want your development to be refused on the grounds of being
‘unneighbourly, overbearing and out of keeping’.” (The projects over these
pages showcase some of the clever ways this can be achieved.) Right to light
is another factor your designer will need to consider in this respect.
If your existing house is on the ‘short’ side, again you and your designer
will need to consider how you might accommodate two full storeys,
particularly with our modern predilection for 2.4m+ ceilings. There are a
number of solutions, such as designing first floor rooms to feature lower
ceiling heights than those on the ground floor, or integrating first floor
rooms beneath a pitched roof space. “Utilising the roof space as part of the
design can provide an open, airy feel to the first floor, and introduce more
natural light,” says architect Carl Huntley.
Designing a series of small, intersecting traditional pitched roofs or an
area of flat roofing hidden behind a more traditional pitched roof are clever
means of giving you much-needed ceiling height, too, as Darren Bray,
Director of B.a.d Architects, explains: “With regards to roofs and sight lines,
when we have proposed extensions, we may well keep the height of the new
volume low. So proposing a flat roof against the existing is a good device
to mark the difference between old and new.” Finally, excavating down and
building a two-storey extension at a slightly lower level than the existing
house can be another way of achieving adequate head height.
Where to locate your new extension
Deciding where to extend is another key consideration. For a terraced
house or semi-detached property with limited space, the rear elevation is
often the best (and sometimes only) place to site a two-storey extension.
In this example, it’s best to balance the size of the new extension with the
outdoor space available. You do not want to sacrifice most of your garden; a
large family home needs a garden to match.
If you have room at the side of your house, this can be a good option
as it will typically enable you to retain your existing rear garden space. If
this is the case, careful consideration needs to be given to the design of the
extension, since the frontage at least will be visible from the street.
The planners may require a more traditional design, sympathetic to the
original house.
The exterior:
Contrasting or complementary design?
The exterior of the extension will play a crucial part in
whether your design scheme is approved or rejected by
the planners. “From our experience, the word ‘subservient’
does come into play. It’s something planning officers use
when they are looking to describe a project. If you can
design something that complements what is already there,
then you’re half way to convincing not only the planners,
but the neighbours, too,” suggests architect Darren Bray.
If you are building a complementary extension,
choosing materials that match those used on the house can
make your extension look like it’s always been there.
But if it’s not possible to match existing materials, or
you want a striking design, contrasting materials can
be used to make a statement, as Carl Huntley explains:
“The form of the building generally either needs to
blend into the existing architecture or contrast — either
way clear justification is needed. I prefer contrasting a
complementary extension as it provides an ‘honest’ timeline
to the development period of the house using glass, render,
wood and other more contemporary materials.”
The interior: getting the balance right
You need to consider your lifestyle and requirements
carefully before you start. If the ground floor is going to
be home to your new kitchen, do you need a separate
utility room or cloakroom? Do you need more storage
space that is best factored in at the design stage?
When it comes to the second storey, if you’re
adding an extra bedroom to a two-bed house, you can
realistically do so without another bathroom; but if
you’re taking a three-bedroom house up to a four or
five-bedroom home, it will be more than worthwhile
making space for an additional bathroom, shower room
or en suite, too.
You may want to consider matching elements
of the existing house to create cohesive interior
space. Choose the same decorative elements,
such as mouldings, door furniture and colour
schemes throughout and match floor and ceiling levels,
between the new and existing space.
Remember to be mindful about floor acoustics in
the new extension, says Chris Holt, Managing Director
at CDI Innovative Construction Materials: “Key to
removing annoying footfall noise between upper and
lower floors of an extension is all down to choosing the
correct floor structure. Simple, robust and easy-to-install
floor structures are the best choice to guarantee a creak-
free floor.”
You may also have to reconfigure the layout of the
upstairs hallway to make access to the new rooms feel
natural or reposition the staircase to help create a better
configuration and flow. The key is not to compromise
existing rooms too much when creating the new spaces.
EXTENSIONS 35
IS AN EXTENSION
THE RIGHT
CHOICE?
Think carefully before taking the extension plunge
— it might not be right for you
Before you start focusing on an extension, take some time to consider what
issues you are trying to solve and what would transform your life in your
house. An architect or other design professional can help tease out these
issues and draw out the motivations, long-term and short-term goals, and
lifestyle choices that may affect the course of the project.
Often, starting a project with a ‘question and answer session’, is a sensible
move: How long do you plan to live in the house? Are you thinking of
expanding your family (children, elderly relatives or a dog, for example)? Do
you want more space and light? Do you want a better connection with the
garden? Which rooms do you use the most and why?
The answers to all of these questions will have a bearing on whether your
house can be modified to meet your needs in the future. In turn, this can
result in a solution that doesn’t require an architect, but ultimately it’s about
finding the best fit for the homeowner.
Avoid ‘bolt-on’ additions
People often want to extend to the rear of their house in order to introduce
more light into their home and to connect to the garden and views. A classic
example is adding a conservatory, garden room or glazed extension. If
you are considering this option, don’t simply call a company who sells kit
products straight away; they may only try to convince you this is the right
thing to do, regardless of whether it is or not.
Aspect and orientation are the key to success when considering an
addition of this nature. Such additions can provide useful space in the right
situation, but implemented poorly or to the wrong house, they create a
wealth of issues. For example, they can also cut off the house from the
garden, may end up being little used as they are too hot in the summer
and too cold in the winter, and remove valuable garden space.
You need to take a holistic view and consider the implications for the
rest of the house. The room that a ‘bolt-on’ addition is attached to – often a
former dining room in the case of a terraced house – can become a glorified
corridor, devoid of natural light and its function displaced by the extension.
Essentially, you may end up creating low value, under-used space in the
centre of your house with a poor connection to the outside. An alternative
at a fraction of the price would be to re-landscape, perhaps creating a ‘room
outdoors’, and open your house up to the garden. Consider installing a set of
sliding doors to create the inside/outside space you may be craving — this is
typically a simpler, more cost-effective solution.
Maintaining balance
Too many rooms, either on top or on the ground floor, can
create an imbalance and disrupt the natural flow of your
home. In extending out, you may be creating a ‘bottom-
heavy home’. And, as previously mentioned, sometimes the
result of creating more space is to increase the amount of
circulation rather than adding usable space.
Rather than extend outwards, think about going
up and maximising how you use the volume of the
building. This may involve converting the loft or creating
a mezzanine to use as an office. Explore areas where you
have height, light and underused floor space.
It may be that extending is the way to go — but it may
be less about adding masses of space and more about
releasing potential. For example, adding a 6m2 dormer
window to an elegant house could unlock an attic space,
allowing it to be used as an additional bedroom. The
key is to make better use of the floor space and light to
increase the functionality of the existing space rather
than creating additional space.
Consider remodelling
Remodelling can be one of the most dramatic, cost-
effective and low-risk means of transforming your home
— and, depending on the work, could save you thousands,
if not tens of thousands on an extension project. The
secret is to find ways to unlock the true potential of your
house and to organise the floorplan and circulation to
ensure the space you have works with your lifestyle.
And finally…
An extension won’t automatically add value to your
house. Estate agents are adept at factoring in the
potential of a house into the price so actually doing the
work may not increase the sale price.
Often the buyer will prefer to do the work themselves,
and put their own stamp on the property. You may
extend and add a garage, then someone else may come
along and want to convert the new garage into an
annexe or extra living space. Don’t be tempted to second
guess what other people may want but instead focus on
your own needs as ultimately it has to work for you.
In some cases, an extension can also compromise
your house or garden. If the style of your house is not
to your taste, consider moving rather than carrying out
a radical transformation. If your quaint period cottage
with low ceilings and small rooms no longer serves your
needs you may want to consider upgrading to a modern
house rather than changing the character and features of
your current home. Finally, maintaining a larger house
requires more money and time. More runs of gutter to
unblock, more windows to paint, more floors to clean
and more space to heat — if you are not using the house
effectively it makes very little sense to create even more.
Small can be beautiful.
EXTENSIONS 37
 SIZING YOUR
EXTENSION
Getting the size of your extension right is
critical.We explain how to arrive at an
ideal size for your budget and requirements
Getting the size of your extension right will have a huge impact on whether
it successfully meets your needs — not least, whether it needs planning
approval and, of course, how much it costs to build.
The natural temptation, of course, is to make the extension as big as possible.
Yet with each additional square metre costing somewhere in the region of £2,000,
there is a significant additional cost attached, as well as the space you’re losing in
terms of the garden or yard. The key to establishing correct sizing is to consider
the purpose of the extension, and the rooms you’re hoping to create, and the
particular situation of the extension itself (side or rear, or both).

Visualising the size

It’s very difficult for first-time home extenders to understand what planned
space looks like — which is why so many designers use 3D visualisation
tools. If your designer doesn’t do that, then the best way of working out how
much space you need is to consider your own existing rooms. In most cases
a fairly cosy living room might be in the region of 4mx4m. Kitchens built
before around 1980 in most terraced and semi-detached housing tend to
be smaller than this, which makes the addition of modern kitchen design
features such as island units and dining tables very challenging. If you’re
thinking you’d like to extend out to create a new kitchen, almost certainly
with an island and some dining function as well as a sofa or so, then you
should really be looking at a space of around 30m2-40m2 to feel generous.

Minimum room sizes

Thinking about the individual rooms really helps to work out exactly what
space you need to create. While Building Regulations don’t stipulate individual
minimum room sizes, it’s worth applying some guidelines particularly to
bathrooms: around 4.5m2 gives plenty of space for a generous configuration
of bath, shower, basin and loo. En suites can afford to be a bit smaller, with
around 3m2 giving just enough space for a small shower, loo and basin.
Kitchens – in particular the type of open plan living kitchen that we
all aspire to – need to go well beyond the typical 4mx4m space to be
Photography: Getty Images/Poplasen

satisfactory. Try and aim for at least 24m2-30m2 for this type of arrangement.
This not only gives enough space for suitable circulation around the
units (think about what happens when the dishwasher is open and being
unloaded) but also an overall feeling of generosity. Rather than cramming
units and every perceivable fit of furniture in, think about building in some
‘wasted’ space — it can be a smart way to create the impression of a building
being larger than it really is. A nice way to think about creating generous
living spaces is to plan to position the sofas and chairs off the walls, to allow
circulation space behind them.

38 EXTENSIONS
PROCESS
An insider’s guide to navigating
through the home extension process

❯ Estimating Costs
❯ Design Process Explained

❯ Planning Permission

❯ Getting it Built

❯ How to Find a Builder

EXTENSIONS 41
 HOW TO
START YOUR
EXTENSION
PROJECT
So, you’re keen to extend your
own home.What next?
A n extension project is a process that can take
various forms, and choosing the right path for you
is critical to ensuring it is a success. To put it another
way, you need to start your extension off on the right
foot — otherwise you’ll always be struggling to keep it
on track. So what should you do first?
Having decided to embark on an extension, and
having got the money in place, and with a fair idea of
the size and shape and style of extension you want,
where should you turn? This initial decision is crucial
and boils down to a choice between the common
procurement routes — builder or designer.
Using a builder first
A builder will be able to give you very clear advice
on the main things that they influence — namely
the engineering elements of construction (such as
practicalities around removing walls, the length of
potential openings, roof types and so on) and the
potential build times and projected build costs. Clearly
they can’t do this with any certainty until they have
a lot more information in terms of the design and
specification, but they will be able to give you general
guides that could help to stop a project that could never
realistically meet your budget proceeding through the
design stage. They will also be able to give you advice on
where to save costs.
Photography: Getty Images/CJP
What they won’t be able to do with any degree of
experience is to give you detailed design advice or
advise you on the specifics of planning permission
(or Permitted Development Rights criteria). That said,
builders who have regularly undertaken extensions
of a similar size will be able to give you the benefit of
their experiences with regard to all these things. From
42 EXTENSIONS
a design perspective, however, most builders wouldn’t be expecting to solve
difficult design problems. Additionally, it’s fair to say that most builders
have a relatively limited palette of materials choices (often basing their
recommendations on previous experience).
From a design perspective, you’ll almost certainly need some professional
drawings, whether simply from a structural engineer or a more fully-fledged
design solution. The builder should be able to put you in touch with people
they have worked with previously — and that’s a good way to find designers
with a reputation for providing clear, detailed plans.
PROS:
● ensures project is achievable
● puts engineering and cost at the centre of the project
CONS:
● might limit design choice
Using a designer first
Contacting a house designer is most people’s first choice when it comes
to kicking off an extension project. What you get is someone who can
provide a solution to the problems that the house presents, adding the extra
space in a way that meets your brief, looks pleasing externally and is full
of light inside. They will also be able to give you guidance on navigating
the planning system if required. They will also be able to provide you with
advice on typical costs in their experience of similar projects, and will have
recommendations on the materials choices, too. In most cases homeowners
use designers to simply provide a design service and supervision during the
tendering process with builders, but some designers will offer a full project
supervisory role, effectively managing the builder on your behalf.
PROS:
● Ensures you get the design you want
CONS:
● Not necessarily matching build cost with design
Making a choice
By contacting a builder first you’re clearly bypassing the initial design and
feasibility process. In most cases, extensions (particularly single storey) can
be quite templated — they all look the same, to a degree. This means that
the requirement for individual design is reduced. However, far too many
extensions look very ordinary and detract from the overall enjoyment of the
house (both inside and out), which is where good design pays off.
Key considerations:
1 Work out what’s most important to you and ensure that this is at the
heart of the project. So if you have a fairly straightforward extension
project, with limited design options, and bringing in the project on time
and especially on budget is important to you, then going straight to the
professional who can advise you on these things (the builder) is the best
approach. Likewise, if you’re struggling to come up with a design approach
for your extension, don’t expect a builder to save the day: you’ll need to
speak to a designer first.
2 It’s not enough to choose the right profession to go to — you need
to find a good one. Many qualified house designers create terrible
extensions. Many builders manage projects that end up going over budget.
The point is, hire the individual, not the title.
One of the key choices
for beginners is who
to talk to first — a
builder or a designer.
The choice depends on
what your main priority
is with the project

EXTENSIONS 43
 HOW MUCH WILL
IT ALL COST?
Extension prices are affected by many factors
The cost of your extension project will be determined by four main factors:
its size (obviously); its location; the way it is built (by whom) and what
goes into it (the specification). Understanding the influence that these four
factors have will give you a much clearer idea of the likely cost — but bear in
mind, the only real arbiter of the final cost is the builder.
General guides
Builders and the wider industry tend to price projects on a cost per
square metre (m2) basis, which allows the size factor to be isolated out of
comparisons. While average figures don’t allow you to see the full picture
of build costs, most extension projects end up costing between £2,100-
£2,500/m2 of space. This (very broad) figure includes everything from
the groundworks to all the fixed finishes in the house (kitchens, flooring,
decoration) but doesn’t include the furnishings (sofas and the like).
This figure is intentionally broad because it is affected by all the factors set
out earlier. Some projects can come in well below the lower figure; others
may well expect to double the figure at the top end. But for most people,
working to relatively standardised projects in most parts of the UK, it is
reasonable to target £2,000/m2 (plus VAT) as a starting point.
Size
Clearly, the bigger the extension project, the more it is going to cost. There
are more materials, and the extension will take longer to build, meaning
more labour costs. However, the bigger the project, in most cases the lower
the cost per square metre will be. That’s because the fixed elements of build
costs (such as plant hire etc) are spread out over more area and because
the expensive building elements (the groundworks/floor structure and the
roof) are diluted, particularly in the case of a two-storey extension. Finally,
in larger extension projects the costs of building the more expensive rooms
(kitchens and bathrooms) is diluted by the costs of building relatively cheap
rooms (living rooms and bedrooms, with less electrics, plumbing, and lower
flooring costs, no tiling, etc).
Location
Where you build will have an impact on your costs. While materials prices,
which usually account for around 50% of overall costs, tend to be the same
whether you’re building in Hereford or Hampstead, the costs of labour will
most certainly be different. These costs are driven by shortage of supply,
high demand and local economic conditions, so it is actually quite difficult
Photography: Katie Lee
to generalise. Pockets of regions all over the UK suffer fluctuations in the
supply of both tradespeople and main contractors. However, both the high
subcontractor rates experienced in the South East (bricklayers being a good
example) coupled with high demand across all construction sectors for
building firms/main contractors means that the cost of labour could well be
44 EXTENSIONS
double that of cheaper parts of the UK. There is also the
element of localised demand — if builders are stacked up
for jobs for the next 18 months, they’re able to be more
ambitious with their quotes.
Build route
Not many people build their own extensions, but given
the figures above, you can clearly save £10,000s by taking
on the role of the tradesperson. Much more practical for
most people is the idea of taking on the role of project
manager, which means organising the labour and the
materials yourself, but saving the fee that the main
contractor enjoys. Depending on local conditions and
the main contractor’s order book, this could be anywhere
between 10-40% of the overall cost of the project —
reflecting the mark-up the main contractor takes. Don’t
underestimate the amount of time and skill this task
needs, in addition, of course, to a healthy contacts book
of tradespeople who will genuinely be able to turn up at
short notice should the need arise.
Clearly, the more risk you take on yourself, the more
reward you’ll enjoy. The risks you take, of course, are
that the rates for trades rise and that materials are more
expensive than you had planned — and you probably
won’t have a clear idea of the final cost until you’ve
finished. With professional project management, on the
other hand, you get certainty, fixed costs and an element
of reassurance, but you pay for it.
Specification (and design)
With kitchens for the same space costing anywhere
from £5,000 to well over £100,000, you can get a sense
of the impact that your materials choices will have on
the overall end cost. Flooring costs can easily add a
factor of ten to the specification, and one window choice
could easily be half the cost of another. Buying well and
choosing sensible, good value products for your home is
key to ensuring good value and keeping your extension
costs within the parameters explained above.
Materials account for some 50% of the project and,
of course, the more expensive they are, the higher that
percentage will be. And the more bespoke the choice,
the longer it will take to fit — anything too unusual and
your builders will be adding in additional days to the
labour bill to account for any unknowns. There’s nothing
wrong with spending all the money you want on your
finished extension — but you need to understand the
impact it has on your preferred target budget.
Finally, don’t forget the impact that the design of
your extension will have on cost. If your designer has
specified high ceilings, that’s good design, but not so
attractive financially. Suddenly, the plasterers are having
to spend time cutting up other boards, and fixing them,
and taping joints, and so on — all lots of additional time
(and materials) for a relatively innocent design decision.
EXTENSIONS 45
 The
DESIGN
process
Photography: Fiona Walker-Arnott

Getting your extension designed is the most exciting element of the whole
process — but how you approach it, and who you choose, is critical

46 EXTENSIONS
The most fun part of your extension project is likely to be the design process
— working with a professional to get the space, look and feel (inside and
out) just as you want it. A successful design process results in a successful
design, and a successful project. If only it were always like that! For people
unused to working with professional designers, the process can occasionally
be fraught, expensive and, worst of all, end with a disappointing result. And
having been through the upheaval and expense of extending your home, you
had better be sure you’re happy with it. So a good design experience is key
— here’s how to ensure you get it right.

Do I need a designer?
You’ll need professional design help at some level of your project, but
certainly don’t necessarily need a full-service architect and a long, involved
process. The reality is that many extension projects look the way they do
because there are only really one or two solutions to extending common
house types, and the natural engineering limitations imposed on extensions
(for example, the spans of steel joists) means that for most people there isn’t

EXTENSIONS 47
 going to be a lot of fresh thinking going on. Clearly, a window or rooflight
shape and style will need choosing, as will some design details (such as
whether or not you have a level threshold between the internal and external
floor levels), but this is not design work that requires bold, experimental
architectural energy.
You will, of course, need a structural engineer to work at the design stage
to confirm the size and depth of any steel beams you need. You’ll also need
some design work in terms of the electrical/lighting scheme.
In the majority of cases, homeowners will benefit from employing
an experienced house designer for their extension. Builders (who could
probably build a perfectly adequate-looking extension for you without
the involvement of a designer) and structural engineers wouldn’t be best
placed to solve particular problems with your extension project, or give it
the design flourish that elevates it above the ordinary. Experienced house
designers can help to make even ordinary-shaped extensions feel special
and smart, perhaps with clever window placement or cladding. They will
also be experienced in how to rearrange the flow of the space once the new
extension is complete. There are a lot of very ordinary extensions around,
and it usually pays to have someone with a skilled eye to help yours be
something you’re really proud of.

So what are my options?

The title ‘architect’ is protected under the Architects Act of 1997 and means
that only those registered with the Architects Registration Board can use
the term to describe themselves. This means that they have been through
the appropriate education, and have the qualifications and training. They
will also have signed up to the Architect’s Code of Conduct and have
professional indemnity insurance of at least £250,000.
Searching the lists of the Royal Institute of British Architects (RIBA) is a
good starting place to find a good house designer and while it guarantees
that they meet the above criteria, that’s only a proportion of the whole
skillset required to bring your project to life. A good designer will be
experienced, energetic, engaged with the project (and you) and skilled at
resolving difficult design issues.
The place to start, therefore, is not so much with the title as the person.
Good designers will
You’re after a designer with all the above hard and soft skills. That may well be able to unlock
be an architect, but it might just as easily be a local house designer without solutions in the project
any formal qualifications. Insurance is key, of course, but many non- that you won’t have
architects have that, too. thought of — don’t
simply employ
designers to draw up
How to find one what’s in your head
Start with RIBA’s Find an Architect service at www.find-an-architect.
architecture.com. RIBA also provides a bespoke matching ‘Referrals’ service
for homeowners at www.architecture.com. In terms of non-RIBA designers,
you could try architectural technologists, who offer many of the same
services as architects, at www.ciat.org.uk. Finding non-affiliated house
designers – anyone, frankly, can set themselves up as a designer – is much
more difficult as there is no central database.
Local builders might be able to help – indeed, many people who talk to
Photography: Rachael Smith

builders as the first port of call in their project get good recommendations
from them of designers whose plans are detailed, clear and technically
sound. (It’s generally a very good sign when builders like designers.)
Also, of course, other recommendations might help. Friends, family,
neighbours may well be able to point you in the direction of someone
who has had similar work done. Finally, you could also scour the names of

EXTENSIONS 49
 the designers who submit house plans to the local authority for planning
permission purposes. Which designs do you like (and ideally got approval!)?

Understanding what designers do – and don’t do

The job of a designer is relatively ill-defined — it means different things on
different projects. In the grandest sense, the designer is the expert who can
bring together all of the different elements you need to make a project like
this work, from initial feasibility to co-ordinating any structural drawings,
cost analysis, construction advice, getting it through planning and building
control and even supervising the construction process. That’s all without
mentioning the house plans.
Most designers working on extension projects would expect to be:
❯ producing initial sketches and drawings to get the concept right and
agreed with you;
❯ submission and liaison with the planning authorities (or confirmation of
exemption under Permitted Development Rights, if relevant);
❯ production of final construction drawings for building control and
construction purposes to be sent to a builder for quotation.

In most cases the relationship will end there, although some designers
will be able/willing to manage the builder/tender process and even the build
itself if you wish.
A word of warning here. House designers specialise day in, day out on
the design of buildings. Not all of them specialise in extensions — so bear
this in mind when talking to a practice or an individual with a varied mix of
project types. The truth is that there isn’t a lot of money for house designers
in devoting lots of hours to small extension projects compared to the
money they can earn from larger commercial jobs — so your project may
well regularly find itself at the bottom of their list if the designer gets busy.
Ideally you would want a specialist homes/extensions designer. Also, if your
project requires other non design-related solutions, then don’t assume your
house designer is the person to help.
For sites with sensitive planning issues, you’ll need a specialist planning
consultant. These are people who work all the time around the local
authority’s planning department, knowing the policies and appeal decisions
inside out — something your house designer could never compete with.
Similarly, if you’re particularly worried about costs, don’t expect your house
designer to give you the same level of assurance on materials and labour
prices as a proper quantity surveyor, so don’t be surprised if the answers you
get back on costs are not specific. Use a house designer to their strengths
as part of a team of experts early on in your project and you’ll have a much
better chance of success than relying on them alone.

How do I decide?
With the above in mind, meet the designers in person. Don’t expect a free
design consultation. Talk to them about the project, and see if they get it,
Good design should
not just concentrate and perhaps can convince you that, under their guidance, they can add
on interior space but sufficient skill to make it special. See previous projects, and ask them what
Photography: Malcolm Menzies

also exterior look and their particular areas of interest are. What do they do well, and what do they
material choices bring that others can’t?
Just as importantly as the design conversation is the customer service
factor. Many homeowners instantly feel on the back foot when talking to
designers about their projects, and it’s always a mistake. You’re both the
client and the boss, and you’re employing a designer in the same way that
you would anyone else — to work for you, and to get the job done well. So

50 EXTENSIONS
the element of service is key, namely, how long can I expect the process to
take, what are the turnaround times on revisions, and how do you charge?
In most cases this will be a staged fixed fee, agreed in advance.
What should designers charge?
The traditional RIBA sliding scale is a thing of the past, although some
designers still cherish its simplicity and transparency — effectively a
design charge of somewhere between 10-15% of the overall contract value
(construction cost). Larger projects would tend to be at the lower end of the
traditional fee scale and small projects at the high end. The fee is typically for
three stages of work, concept phase through to planning, (RIBA Stages 0-3),
design development and co-ordination with consultant engineers etc. (RIBA
Stage 4) and then construction phase through to completion (RIBA Stages
5-6). This usually meant that most architectural designers would be expecting
to charge fees of around £7,000-£15,000 for a project in the £70,000- £100,000
range (a large kitchen extension or small two-storey extension).
This approach was unpopular with homeowners, largely because it gave
no certainty as to the design cost but also because there was a disincentive
for designers to drive costs down. Nowadays almost all designers work on a
fixed fee basis. This doesn’t mean that fees are cheaper, but at least they are
more transparent. In most cases this £7,000-£15,000 figure is a good guide
for those building larger scale extensions that require quite a bit of design
input from concept to construction. Anything lower than £5,000 in fees
simply means that the designer won’t be able to afford to put in the design
hours to ensure that everything is as good as can be.
That said, if you only need limited design input, then you should be
paying fees in the £2,000-£5,000 range for planning drawings and the same
again for Building Regs drawings. Perhaps you only need a week’s worth
of a designer to sketch up some plans for planning approval and leave the
builder to get on with the rest.
What do I bring?
So where do you fit into all of this? You, busy cutting out pictures of things
you like from magazines and putting together online moodboards, and
perhaps getting carried away and looking at sofas and wall art? Well, the
level of information you give to your designer is critical in ensuring a
successful outcome. Your brief should include:
❯ basic requirement in terms of rooms needed;
❯ what you intend to use the new space for;
❯ some examples of spaces you like and those you don’t like;
❯ your budget;
❯ other aims, such as energy efficiency, natural light, smart tech, and so on.
What it shouldn’t do is to be too prescriptive in terms of how big the design
should be or what it should look like. Ideally you would want your designer to
add some value for their fees, rather than slavishly drawing up what you have
in your (unskilled) mind. So trust them to add value and don’t feel you have to
totally guide them. On the other hand, be clear about what you want.
One way to rationalise this further is to provide the designer with a list
of the experiences you hope to enjoy in the new space. This will focus their
design process. These experiences might include:
❯ sitting on a sofa having a coffee on a Sunday morning, looking
at the garden;
❯ kids watching television after school while you’re working;
❯ even an area for a Friday night disco!
Provide this list to your designer as part of the brief, and
assess the plans you get back against it. Can you achieve all
those things in your new space? One other way to assess
the design is to work from the detail upwards. For example,
you might have your heart set on a particular sofa, or
having an island in the kitchen. Is there space for that?
Concentrating on the tiny details can enable you to put the
whole plan in context. If not, it’s time for revisions.
Revisions
Nothing is going to be perfect first time, and it definitely
pays to take a few days before feeding back to the designer,
certainly after receiving the first plans. There may well
be stipulations in your agreement about the number of
provisions allowed in the fixed fee, but remember: you’re
not able to change the design once it’s done, so it pays to
take your time and get it right now. Be clear with why
you see the problems, and suggest potential (practical)
solutions. The key frustration for designers here is a lack of
clarity and the feeling that the homeowner has it all in their
own mind — so now’s the time for you to be clear with
them. The key is to agree the broad principles early on so
that you’re not making huge changes to plans that have had
a lot of detailed work going in.
The end of the line
It’s not common, but some relationships between
designer and homeowner end without the production
of plans satisfactory to all. In many cases the injection
of a new approach and a fresh eye can help to unlock a
troublesome project, and in fact many schemes benefit
from having a multi-faceted approach to design, with
each designer bringing a particular skill.
The way that relationships like this end is related
Photography: Philip Lauterbach
to the fees paid. Designs remain the copyright of the
designer but as long as the fee has been paid at each
stage, then the client enjoys a licence to use the designs
on the site in question. This is another reason for
ensuring that there is a clear stage payment agreement,
meaning that the financial hit for effectively sacking
your architect is limited.
EXTENSIONS 51
 PLANNING
PERMISSION
FOR EXTENDERS
Will your project need approval? And if so,
how do you go about applying?
Many domestic building projects such as extensions require planning
permission from your local planning authority. If you don’t receive
appropriate planning permission or proof that your development is otherwise
lawful, you risk being unable to sell your home in the future. More critically,
you could be served an enforcement notice for unlawful development,
requiring you to make a retrospective application. You may have to alter the
development to make it compliant with planning policy, or in some instances,
remove the addition altogether and reinstate the property to its original
form. If you refuse, the ultimate sanction is forced demolition, so it pays to
understand the process and what your responsibilities are.
What is the Local Planning Authority?
In most cases the Local Planning Authority (LPA) will be the planning
department of your local authority. However, in some cases another body
might be responsible for development control – for instance, a National Park.
Do I need planning approval?
Not all home improvement projects require planning approval. Many
smaller projects, such as internal alterations to the layout, are not classed
as ‘development’ or a ‘change of use’ at all and so do not require planning
permission unless the building is listed (in which case listed building consent
is required). Even projects that are classed as ‘development’ in planning
legislation often do not require planning permission, providing the design falls
within the rules set out in legislation allowing automatic approval under what
is known as ‘Permitted Development’ or PD.
PD applies to most dwelling houses (but not flats) and includes many
small two storey rear extensions, single storey rear and side extensions, many
loft and garage conversions, and alterations to the roof, roof covering, wall
cladding, doors and windows, the addition of a small porch and simple things
like adding an oil tank, an aerial or a garden shed or outbuilding.
England, Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland each has its own legislation
on Permitted Development, so always check your local authority website
for details of what is allowed in your area or with the ‘Planning Portal’
planningportal.co.uk.
Permitted Development rights do not always apply, so it is important to
seek advice from your local authority to find out the rules specific to your
property or neighbourhood.
52 EXTENSIONS
Permitted Development rights are restricted in
‘Designated Areas’ such as Conservation Areas, Areas
or Outstanding Natural Beauty, and National Parks.
They can also be removed by the local planning authority
as a condition of a planning permission where future
development needs to be controlled to prevent over-
development. They may also have been used
up previously.
If you want clarity that your proposed development is
lawful and complies with permitted development rules,
you can make an application for a certificate of lawful
existing use or development (CLEUOD). You will find a
list of what is required on your local authority’s website
including the fee.
Typically you are required to provide a scale site plan
and location plan, existing and proposed elevations and
floorplans and a description of the proposals. Your local
authority will then advise whether the proposals fall within
the rules for PD. The certificate gives you and future buyers
confidence that the development is lawful. In England, a
similar process can be used to obtain ‘Prior Approval’ for
larger single storey rear extensions – see below.
Permitted Development rules
In England the current legislation is The Town and
Country Planning (General Permitted Development)
(Amendment) (No. 2) (England) Order 2008. There are
several Classes of PD setting out very specific rules for
what is or is not lawful. Permitted development rights
for householders Technical Guidance published by the
Ministry for Housing (MHCLG) provides very useful
detail.
Class A – Enlargement, improvement or alteration
Class B – Additions etc. to the roof
Class C – Other alterations to the roof
Class D – Porches
Class E – Buildings etc. (outbuildings)
Class F – Hard surfaces (patios etc.)
Class G – Chimneys, flues etc.
Class H – Microwave antennae (aerials etc.)
Class A covers the enlargement, improvement or other
alteration of a dwellinghouse. This is largely defined by
what you cannot do rather than what you can do.
❯ Extensions (including any extensions to the original
house under Class A or under a separate planning
permission) and other buildings must not exceed 50% of
the curtilage (meaning the original garden area).
❯ Any enlargement, improvement, or alteration to a house
must not exceed the height of the highest part of the roof
of the existing house.
❯ The new eaves height (where the lowest part of the
slope of the roof meets the wall) must not exceed the
height of the eaves on the existing house.
❯ Where any part of a proposed extension is within
2 metres of the boundary of its curtilage, then the
 maximum height of the eaves that is allowed for the proposal is 3 metres.
❯ You can’t build out closer to the public highway.
❯ The enlarged part of the house cannot extend beyond a wall which fronts
a highway and forms either the principal elevation or a side elevation of the
original house. This exclusion doesn’t exclude extensions on side walls, but it
does exclude extensions on side walls nearer to the road than the front wall of
the original house;
❯ Single storey extensions can extend 3m from the original rear wall of a
terraced or semi-detached house or 6m subject to ‘prior approval’. For a
detached house the limit is 4m of 8m subject to ‘prior approval’.
❯ Two storey extensions must not project further than 3m from the original
rear wall of the house and must be no less than 7 metres from any boundary.
❯ Side extensions must not be more than half the width of the original house
at its widest point.
The maximum height of the roof of a single storey extension must not exceed
4m with a duo pitched roof or 3m for any other type of roof e.g. a flat roof.

Prior approval
In England, PD rights allow larger single storey rear extensions subject to a
‘Prior Approval’ process of up to 8m on a detached house and up to 6m on
any other house. Details of the documents, drawings and fee (currently £96)
to be submitted will be available on your local authority website. The LPA will
write to the immediate neighbours and give them at least 21 days to decide
if they wish to object. If there are no objections, then as long as an extension
falls within the rules the LPA have to grant Prior Approval, the scheme can go
ahead. If there are objections the LPA will consider the impact of the proposal
on the residential amenity of all adjacent neighbours and will either decide
that the impact is acceptable and grant Prior Approval or take the view that
the impact is not acceptable and refuse. There is a right of appeal against any
refusal of a Prior Notification. The LPA have to issue a decision within six
weeks; if they fail to do so Prior Approval is automatically granted. Regardless
of whether your project falls within the Prior Approval system, you do have
some other options in order to confirm its status.
Class B allows additions to the existing roof of up to 40 cubic metres in
the case of a terrace house, or 50 cubic metres in any other case. The volume
allowed needs to take into account any enlargement to the original roof space
that has already been implemented, whether permitted by this Class or not.
Class C allows the roof to be altered by 0.15 metres beyond the plane of
the slope of the original roof when measured from the perpendicular with
the external surface of the original roof. This allows for reroofing including
insulation or the addition of rooflights.
Class D allows the addition of a porch to the front elevation of a house
providing that the ground area (measured externally) of the structure would
exceed 3 square metres, no part of the structure would be more than 3 metres
above ground level and that no part of the structure would be within 2 metres
of any boundary of the curtilage of the dwellinghouse with a highway
Class E allows outbuildings within the original curtilage subject to them
NO PLANNING (or 6m for a semi- or
REQUIRED terraced home). These being for a purpose incidental to the enjoyment of the dwellinghouse (excludes
Single storey extension individual allowances an annexe which is classed as ‘ancillary’ use). It also allows installation of heating
Photography: Jody Stewart

projects will be do change over time oil or lpg gas tanks or the construction of a swimming pool.
covered under your so it’s worth checking Outbuildings must not cover more than 50% of the original garden area,
permitted development with your local
rights if they project authority for the latest
taking into account all extensions and additions; must not be any further
out from the rear of guidance towards the highway than the existing dwelling; must not be taller than 4m
the house less than 8m with a pitched roof of 3m with any other type of roof; the eaves must be no
taller than 3m or no taller than 2.5 metres if within 2 metres of the boundary

EXTENSIONS 53
 of the curtilage of the dwellinghouse. If any part of the building, container
or enclosure is within 2 metres of the boundary of the curtilage of the house,
then the height limit for the total development is restricted to 2.5 metres if it is
to be permitted development.
Conditions of complying with Permitted Development
Additionally, for a project to comply with Permitted Development Rights it
must meet the following criteria:
❯ the materials used in any exterior work (other than materials used in the
construction of a conservatory) shall be of a similar appearance to those used
in the construction of the exterior of the existing house;
❯ any upper-floor window located in a wall or roof slope forming a side
elevation of the house shall be obscure-glazed and non-opening unless the
parts of the window which can be opened are more than 1.7 metres above the
floor of the room in which the window is installed;
❯ where the enlarged part of the house has more than one storey, the roof
pitch of the enlarged part shall, so far as practicable, be the same as the roof
pitch of the original house
What if my project isn’t within Permitted Development?
If your project doesn’t fall within one of the categories allowed under
Permitted Development, you will need to apply for planning permission.
For home improvements within the existing garden area the application will
usually be a Householder Application. You can find details of the documents
required to make a valid application on your local authority website (search
for Validation Check List). This will typically include:
❯ completed application forms (five copies is a paper application)
❯ the signed ownership certificate
❯ location plan
❯ a site plan/block plan
❯ elevations and roof plan of both the existing and proposed sites,
❯ key cross sections
❯ a Design and Access Statement
❯ the correct fee – in the case of extensions this is currently £206.
❯ relevant reports (trees, flood risk, ecology, contamination etc.)
This is usually handled by your architectural designer although there is no
requirement for this to be the case. Once submitted, the application will be
checked to ensure it is complete and valid. If any plans or reports are missing
the officer or clerk will write to you requesting these. Once the application
is validated the council will confirm this and start the clock on the statutory
timescale for determining the application. The process is broadly as follows:
● The application is validated, and relevant consultees would be notified –
these include any neighbours likely to be affected, the parish council (England
and Wales), Highways, Ecologist, Tree Officer, Drainage Engineer
● ubiquitous planning notice posted to the nearest lamppost
● the application will be assessed by the designated planning officer for
compliance with planning policy and the level of potential controversy; the
stream for the application is then decided: the decision will either be made
by the delegated officer or will be handed to the local planning committee
to decide. In almost all cases, the time of the planning committee is reserved
for larger, more controversial developments, and so extension projects will be
usually decided by the delegated planning officer;
● based on the above responses and whether the application conforms with
local planning policies as outlined in the local plan, a decision is made. In
around 90% of cases this is within eight weeks.
54 EXTENSIONS
Can my neighbours stop my project?
The local authority will base its decision on what are
known as ‘material considerations’, which can include (but
are not limited to):
❯ Overlooking/loss of privacy
❯ Loss of light or overshadowing
❯ Parking provision
❯ Highway safety
❯ Traffic
❯ Noise
❯ Impact on listed building and Conservation Area
❯ Layout and density of building
❯ Design, appearance and materials
❯ Government policy
❯ Disabled access
❯ Proposals in the development plan
❯ Previous planning decisions
❯ Nature conservation
Neighbours will be consulted and invited to comment,
together with parish councils (in England and Wales), but
only those objections based on the material considerations
are taken into account. The loss of a view, or a perceived
reduction in house value, are not material considerations.
Right to light
While the loss of sunlight into habitable rooms and
gardens is a material consideration, there is another
element to consider: your neighbour’s Right to Light.
This is a legal issue rather than a planning matter and
can cause difficulties for home extenders where a rear
extension blocks sunlight entering a neighbour’s side
window. (Only if the window has been there more than
20 years).
The so called ‘50:50 rule’ is generally accepted as
the best way to measure light levels in these cases. The
percentage of a room’s area which can receive adequate
light at a plane 850mm above the floor is calculated. A
point on the working plane is considered adequately lit
if it can receive at least 0.2% of the total illumination
received from the sky. An injury is generally deemed to be
caused where the area of a room receiving light from at
least 0.2% of the sky is reduced to less than 50%. However,
you will need to take legal advice in potential right to
light cases – it is not a matter for your local authority.
The 45 degree rule
As part of their assessment of light loss during the
planning process, local authorities will usually apply
the 45 degree rule, which often forms part of their local
planning policy. Imagine you’re extending to the rear of
the right hand side of a pair of semis. The left hand side
semi has not been extended. To measure the impact of
your extension, a 45 degree line is drawn from the middle
of their rear window (or patio door) across the boundary.
The point at which it intersects with your boundary
is considered the maximum you can extend. However, there are plenty of
exceptions to this rule in practice.

What happens next?

If your planning application is approved, you will received an approval
notice. This will grant planning permission, subject to compliance with the
planning conditions which include a time limit for commencement of three
years, compliance with the approved drawings and plans, approval of external
materials, and building in accordance with the recommendations of the surveys
and reports submitted covering archaeology, ecology, trees, landscaping,
contamination, drainage, flood risk, access and parking and more. It is critical
that you pay close attention to these conditions and formally discharge them by
making an application and paying the relevant fee of £34. The local authority
will confirm in writing that conditions have been discharged.
If your application is recommended for refusal, you will be notified. You can
then usually amend the application and resubmit if officers feel small changes to
the scheme would make it supportable, or you can withdraw the application to
avoid a refusal.
If your application is refused you have the option to appeal the decision
within six months. An appeal inspector will be appointed to review the local
authority’s decision. Their decision can be challenged via the courts.

Do I need a planning consultant?

Many people will appoint a planning consultant before they even buy a plot,
to work out the potential of a development. This could save you thousands of
pounds on buying a project that turns out not to be feasible.
Planning consultants have full knowledge of the ever-changing planning
policies that any project will be subject to. So, whether you are extending,
renovating or building a new home, their help could be indispensable —
especially if your project is in an area of which carries restrictions such as a
Conservation Area or AONB.

EXPERTISE
Planning is part law,
part politics — which
means that it is
very difficult for a
homeowner to fully
understand. Hiring a
planning consultant
is therefore critical
when it comes
to successfully
navigating
controversial planning
situations
Photography: Chris Snook

EXTENSIONS 55
 HOW TO
START YOUR
EXTENSION
PROJECT
An extension project is exciting,
but needs some practical
planning and preparation
to make sure it all
passess off smoothly
A home extension is probably the biggest building
project you’ll ever have been around — and it’s going to
happen to your home, and have a huge impact on you.
How will you cope? The good news is that there are
many things you can do to ease the construction stress
and make your very own major building project a little
bit more bearable.
For all the excitement over how the finished space
is going to improve your life, the realities of the next
few months need careful planning and a realistic
understanding of the logistics of a major building project.

Insurance
Before you start, the very act of carrying out structural
work on your home is something that impacts on
your home insurance policy. You will need to call your
existing home insurance provider and inform them
(truthfully) of the changes, including information on
whether you intend to move out during construction,
or whether the house will be open/unsecured for any
length of time. They will either amend your policy (and
premium) to account for the work you’re carrying out,
Photography: Fiona Walker-Arnott

or suggest you look elsewhere for cover. The good news

is that there are some specialist insurance providers,
such as Self Build Zone, who can provide exactly the Extending your own
cover you need. home is hugely
Don’t forget, too, that while you may or may not need rewarding but requires
a lot of preparation
planning approval depending on the size and position and paperwork to
of the extension itself, you will need to gain building ensure the process is
control approval for the project. This can be carried a success

56 EXTENSIONS
EXTENSIONS 57
 out either by the local authority or private approved
inspectors. Raise it with your builder.

Where will you live?

Can you survive a building project in your own home?
Can you channel your inner Bear Grylls and camp out,
surrounded by leaky roofs and cold north winds gusting
through your home?
Thought not. The decision on whether to move
out or not depends on several factors. Of paramount
importance is ensuring the safety of your family —
keeping children away from the mix of dust, dirt,
rubble and life-threatening tools and sheer drops is
pretty much impossible. The easiest way to think about
it is that if your project is going to involve work that
affects at least half of the ground floor, and can’t easily
be closed off, and is likely to last for at least a month
and will also involve interruptions to the heating and
electrics supply — then you should consider a short-
term rental or start a charm offensive on the in-laws.
There are several other benefits to moving out.
Most reasonable builders will, if the client is going to
continue to live at home, want to ensure the house
is in a reasonable state of tidiness for the evening.
Depending on the builder, and the scale of the mess,
this may range from simply putting some tools back in
their cases and sweeping some rubble into the corner
of a room to getting the industrial vacuum out every
night. As honourable as the approach is, it’s also a waste
of valuable building time – time that could be spent
building and finishing earlier than if you were living
there. So moving out will almost certainly save time
and money.

How long will the project last?

Clearly it depends on the scale of the project itself, but
a typical single storey kitchen extension project could
expect to be completed within four months. Normally
this includes 1-2 months for the external building work
(from digging trenches to finishing the roof and fitting
With good planning,
the windows) to 1-2 months for the internal finishing
an extension project (from plastering and electrics to flooring and making
should last a matter good). The ‘knockthrough’ to the existing house is
of a few months — usually carried out after the new structure is watertight,
part of the success
minimising the disruption.
Photography: Peter Carlsson/Getty Images

of a main contractor
is in co-ordinating
tradespeople How will the new extension be built?
effectively The overwhelming majority of extensions are built
using the standard blockwork wall. This involves
(from the outside working inwards) brick, a 100mm
cavity (usually) fully filled with insulation, an internal
blockwork wall, finished internally with plasterboard.
If brick isn’t the chosen external face, then typically it
is replaced with another blockwork wall which is then
rendered or clad in timber.

58 EXTENSIONS
 This certainly isn’t the only way to build an extension,
but it is the standard wall construction in the UK.
Many extensions are built using different techniques.
Timber frame is the second most common, and is used
for its ability to better accommodate insulation and
a resultant thinner wall thickness. It is also relatively
lightweight so is commonly used for extensions on top
of existing single storey structures. Structural Insulated
Panels (SIPs) – effectively a version of closed panel
timber frame – are fast to build (in a matter of days)
and have significant energy efficiency and airtightness
benefits. Insulated Concrete Formwork (ICF) comprises
the concrete-filled polystyrene blocks you might have
seen on Grand Designs, and offer excellent solidity and
insulative performance.

Site practicalities
An extension project consumes a lot of materials – some
of them bulky, many of them expensive. Deliveries
don’t always turn up just on the morning that the
tradespeople need them, so you’ll need to think about
where expensive sliding doors or bulky bricks might
sit and wait for installation. Ideally the expensive and
easily-removed items (which includes windows) should
be securely stored on site (in a garage, for instance)
while the bulkier items such as bricks will need to be
stored out of the way of reversing cars and ideally be
quite close to where the work will begin. The key is to
have a plan for materials, and think it through — much
better now than making it up on the spot in your
dressing gown while talking to an under-caffeinated
delivery driver at 7am on a wet February morning.
Photography: Sturti/Getty Images

The sites of extension

projects are busy
places and thinking
about where deliveries
are going to be stored
is an important part of
practical planning

EXTENSIONS 59
 HOW WILL YOU
BUILD YOUR
EXTENSION?
There are several different ways to
approach an extension project — but
which one’s right for you?
Nobody builds an extension because they dream of actually building one —
they dream of the lifestyle changes the finished result brings. Indeed it’s all
you can ask to look back on the build element as one that was successfully
navigated without major hiccups on the path to the end result. But it is,
of course, a critical one, and working out how to get it built requires some
serious thought.
There are four main options for homeowners looking to carry out an
extension project to their home. We’ll look at them in detail, and look
at the pros and cons of each.
Before we do, it might be worth having a good long, hard think – and
be honest with yourself – about what you can bring to the project (if
anything). Because the answer on how best to choose your build route lies
with you, your hard skills (construction knowledge), soft skills (things like
organisation) and, most importantly of all, the time you have. Not just in
terms of days you can spend at the house, but your ability to be flexible and
drop things at a minute’s notice. Most building projects are busy, intensive
flurries of activity with many things happening at once — so you need to
be able to contribute in a positive way (or keep well clear).
Option one: ‘Design and build’
This solution can involve a variety of flavours, such as a ‘package’ extension
company or, more commonly, an architect/designer supervising a builder.
Either way, all of the tasks – from interpretation of the plans to costing the
project and ultimately delivering it on budget – are handled by professionals.
Day-to-day decisions and ensuring the building work is to the required
standard is the responsibility of the designer or design and build company,
and as such the involvement of the homeowner is negligible once the design
has been approved. If you consider the main risks of an extension project
include going over budget, or the design being misinterpreted or built
poorly, then this is the route to which you’re best suited. Of course, as you
outsource the risk of overspend and variation, you pay for it — professional
designers will want to be recompensed for their supervisory time, and
design and build companies will factor in their own contingencies. Be
aware, however, that there is no such thing as an entirely risk-free
project. You’re taking a view on the qualities of the design and build
company and/or architect.
60 EXTENSIONS
PROS:
❯ Minimal personal involvement. Perfect for the time-
poor or unconfident extender. Everything is someone
else’s problem so in that sense it’s worry-free on a day-
to-day basis. Because of the tight relationship between
the designer and the construction element, there is likely
to be little variation in costs as you go along.
CONS:
❯ Outsourcing risk comes at a price: this is the most
expensive way to build. Likely to feel less ‘ownership’ of
project. Reliance on quality of professionals means that
risk is never entirely eradicated.
Option two: main contractor
The most common build route for home extenders is to
rely on a main contractor who would cost the project
based on the plans you’ve had drawn up and manage the
project from there. Your level of involvement depends
to a certain extent on the builder and also the level of
involvement you want, because construction is full
of choices. You might (and probably should) want to
choose major items like the windows, bricks and so on.
Ideally you would have done this at the design stage
but inevitably a project like this will involve you and
the builder working together to get the best results.
Clearly, therefore, this arrangement relies on a reliable
builder, but it also relies on a reliable client (you!). You’ll
need to pay promptly at the agreed stages. Ultimately
you’re responsible for the non-site stuff, like ensuring
planning conditions are discharged, and Building
Regulations inspections sorted out (although in practice
most builders want to handle this element). The main
contractor will manage all the labour and materials
on site either with a team they directly employ as staff
or subcontractors, or a mix of the two. Your contract
is with the main contractor (usually referred to as the
builder) so your involvement with the trades on site is
minimal. To that extent you’re still outsourcing risk and
responsibility and the main contractor will add his fees
on to the base labour and materials prices (usually in
the region of 10-15% extra depending on the scale of the
job). Bear in mind that your main contractor will want
to make a reasonable living for himself and his family,
so if he’s taking 10% on five £100,000 projects during a
year, he’s gaining an income of £50,000. As a result, he’s
probably needing to manage more than one project at
once (or at least overlap them). All questions you should
ask when you meet them. Having a builder manage
your project for you is perhaps best described as you
managing a builder managing your project — so active
communication and transparency are critical to success.
PROS:
❯ Clarifies the chain of responsibility — putting a single
source in control means no excuses! An accomplished
builder will ensure a smooth, successful, fast, high quality project with
minimal hassle to you. You’ll be able to tap into the builder’s experience of
previous projects. Potential for lower prices than you could enjoy on most
sundry building items.
CONS:
❯ Success relies on finding a good builder — you’ll be very reliant on
trusting their decisions, so choose wisely. A good builder relies on good
subcontractors, so you’re at the mercy of the builder on those decisions (and
might not always like them). Will require active involvement to ensure the
design is as you had hoped, as builders tend to interpret things based on
their own experience/preferences.
Option three: managing your own project
This route involves taking on the role of the main contractor: so you’ll be the
one hiring, lining up and employing the tradespeople as well as organising
materials are on site when required and in the quantities required. The
time commitment alone is significant simply in organising the site today,
tomorrow and next month (understanding lead-in times of materials,
availability of trades, etc) – as well as being flexible enough during the day to
take and administer calls whenever needed. As a lay person, rather than an
experienced main contractor, you’ll have to get up to speed with a network
of tradespeople from scratch — asking for their loyalty and ability to come
out to see you almost at the drop of a hat in return for no ongoing promise
of work (unlike with a main contractor). You’ll be negotiating prices
with builder’s merchants and other suppliers and, in addition to that, be
responsible for running the site from a logistics point of view. This not only
involves hiring in things like toilets and plant hire, but being responsible
from a health and safety standpoint (as main contractor, you’ll be legally
responsible for the safety of tradespeople) and, not least, organising
deliveries: a brickworker isn’t going to down tools to help you unload and
safely store your new kitchen.
All that said, there are some significant benefits to doing it yourself.
The most obvious one is the price: you’ll be paying the base rates for
materials and tradespeople, so you can expect to save the 10-30% that the
main contractor will take. Additionally, you’ll know every element of the
house and can manage variations completely — so there should be no
communication problems with builders.
input — not least the electrical elements as required
by Part P of the Building Regulations, but if you’re a
confident and practical DIYer and you’re confident that
your work can be as good as that of an experienced
tradesperson, the only thing stopping you is time, or
lack of.
PROS:
❯ Huge cost saving potential. Sense of achievement.
Ultimate control over the schedule, and quality of work.
Ability to change plans without major cost implications.
CONS: Requires good practical skills and construction
dexterity. Ideally you’d have a friendly builder on
hand to make occasional checks or help with hurdles.
Significant time impact and likely to be a slower build
than one using professionals.
So, how do you make a decision on the right route for
you? All four routes are perfectly valid ways to get your
dream extension built, but as we said at the start, the
answer lies with you. What is your attitude to risk? Are
you willing to pay a bit more to outsource some of that
risk? Do you have the time, skills and mental toughness
to run a fast-moving building project? Answering all of
those questions honestly will be an excellent first step on
the way to successfully building a great extension.
TYPICAL BUILD COSTS BASED ON ROUTE
❯ DIY: £900-£1,200/m2
❯ Self-managed: £1,650-£2,000/m2
❯ Main contractor: £1,850-£2,250/m2
❯ Design and build: £2,100-£2,500/m2

PROS:
❯ Significant cost saving against using a builder. Complete control of project
and extra satisfaction/attachment to project that this brings. Self-reliance —
you know you can be trusted!

CONS:
❯ Difficult to access good local tradespeople as a novice. Lots of ‘hidden’ jobs
that fall between trades that will fall to you. Takes a lot of time and stress.
Need to be organised and flexible in your own time commitments.

Option four: DIY

It’s very rare but some homeowners with time and a little bit of construction
know-how decide to literally build it themselves. With most of the key
construction elements covered by high quality how-to guides online, the
confident and time-rich homeowner can save over 50% of the usual costs
by building it themselves. Inevitably some elements will need professional

EXTENSIONS 61
62 EXTENSIONS
Photography: Getty Images
How to
find a
BUILDER
A good builder is a vital part of a successful extension project
— so how do you find one, and how do you keep one?

Most homeowners rely on a builder to run their extension project for them.
In almost all cases it works out absolutely fine, but that initial choice – and
being able to have a good list to choose from in the first place – is a critical
part of making your extension a success.
The process is a mix of following the textbook rules and applying an
element of decidedly non-scientific instinct.

Before you start the search

The earlier you can engage the chosen builder in the design and genesis of
your project, the better. The good builders will want to be able to influence
the project in a way that potentially makes it easier and cheaper for you to
build (and them, of course). They will be able to give you practical guidance
on materials choices and design and engineering decisions in a way that

EXTENSIONS 63
64 EXTENSIONS
Photography: Getty Images/Skynesher
 some designers won’t. A good builder may even be able to recommend a
designer whose plans they have found good to work from in the past —
reversing the traditional designer/builder process.
Some builders won’t want to talk to you until you have finished designs
and perhaps even have planning consent. That doesn’t make them a bad
builder: it makes them a busy builder who has had their time wasted a lot in
the past. Engage early where possible, and ensure they keep you in mind.
Have a clear idea of what kind of service you require from your builder.
Do you want them to complete a whole house contract, which would include
organising everything for you, from the groundworks to the final decoration?
Or would you like to bring in some of your own tradespeople towards the end
of the project, or even do some DIY at the end? Would you like to choose and
supply your own materials (windows, for instance) and if so, which ones?

GETTING TOGETHER A LONG LIST

Ideally you should be coming up with a list of around 10-12 potential
building companies in the first instance. This list – your longlist – should be
populated from a range of sources:

❯ Use the search tools of trade associations such as the Federation of

Master Builders (FMB) and Checkatrade which enable you to find names
of registered builders by project type and location;
❯ Use the services of builder introduction businesses such as Rated People
where you post the details of a job and wait for local builders to contact
you to register interest;
❯ Look for similar local extension projects and ask the homeowner if they
might recommend their builder;
❯ Use any existing trades contacts (e.g. a plumber or electrician you might
have already called out) to see if they might recommend a builder;
❯ Recommendations from friends, family, school gates, etc.
❯ Your designer, if you’re already using one, should be able to give you the
names of builders they have used before.

Phone up (don’t just email) everyone on your list. Explain your location,
your project and situation (whether you have planning yet, ideal start date,
whether the funds are already in place, etc.)

PRODUCING A SHORTLIST
In many ways, your shortlist will select itself. The list of 12 building firms will
reduce pretty quickly — both through your choice and theirs. Several of the
businesses will not return your messages: they’re possibly not working at the
moment, or retired, or more likely too busy to think about taking on new work.
Some of them will politely decline when they find out more about the project.
Inevitably this will reduce your list by half — coming out of this initial process
with a handful of interested parties is the aim of the initial selection procedure.
It’s important to
understand the
terminology of the
SECOND ROUND SELECTION
building industry. Invite the interested parties to the house for a cup of tea to show them your
Main contractors are plans and let them get a sense of the project. Here you’ll outline your own
professionals who take levels of involvement, and it may well be the case that the better builders
on contracts from
will have some helpful suggestions for the project both from a design,
clients and organise
subcontractors engineering and cost management perspective.
(freelance Out of the handful of builders you’re meeting, get a sense of whether
tradespeople) or not you can be around them. This is where the instinct element of the

EXTENSIONS 65
66 EXTENSIONS
Photography: Getty Images/Photovs
 choice comes in. Do they talk too much? Do they try to tell you what you
want, rather than listening and communicating constructively? Are they
able to give you the details of other jobs they have done recently, locally,
who you can talk to? This part of the process is very much a first date, with
communication being the key thing you’re trying to gauge. You don’t have to
think you’ll be best mates, but the ability to get on with each other is really
important — it will help you deal with the odd difficult time that lies ahead.
At this meeting you’re also getting a sense of their availability and attitude
to the work. According to the FMB, the latest guidance is to avoid builders
who claim to be ready for work the very next week — it’s not usually a good
sign. Equally, when it comes to costs, avoid builders who can claim to give
you anything more than a rounded guess at pricing without looking in detail
at your plans, as it’s too early to talk detailed prices.
At each meeting, prepare a pack of information for the builder, writing
down your own expected involvement, details of any planning consent, and
of course a full set of plans, or at the very least a comprehensive list of the
specification you want to include. You should also be asking them:

❯ what insurance they have;

❯ what their typical payment process is (ideally stage payments, paid in
arrears of work completed);
❯ how the business is set up. For example, do they employ people directly
on salary, or do they bring in subcontractors? And if so, what are they
like? How reliable? How long have they been working with them?
❯ how long they might expect the project to last.

FINAL SELECTION
You would expect builders to take around a month to provide a full fixed
price quote for your project. It’s usually a very good sign of their intent if, in
the meantime, they get back in contact with you with questions about the
specification or design. In the meantime, you should be chasing up the list
of previous projects you gained from the first meeting and carrying out your
own investigations.
By this stage, you’ll probably be able to place your builders in order
of your favourites — try and do this before the prices come in. Clearly,
however, the main factor in your choice will be the price.

ASSESSING QUOTES
Firstly, make sure that you’re comparing like with like. Building company X
may well have provided a cheaper price than company Y, but are they detailing
exactly the same service? Have they included everything you asked? Are the
payment terms, the levels of insurance, and the service the same?
Secondly, take a view of the supplied prices in the round. If four of your five
builders have provided estimates in the region of £100,000 and one has come
in at £60,000, try and avoid your natural instincts. This low price will almost
certainly not be a reflection of the final cost anyway: it could be aggressive
low-balling of an estimate to get a job with the aim of raising the cost through
extras. It might also be, more innocently, a result of the builder missing out
The cheapest builder
isn’t always the best. something from, or misinterpreting, the plans. There are occasionally good
They may well not have reasons to go with a very low quote, but you would need to investigate in more
included everything detail with the builder. For example, a building firm employing tradespeople
in their quote, and so on staff (salaried) may prefer to sacrifice the project management costs
might end up having
to claw back costs
enjoyed by smaller operations (who employ subcontractors as and when
through extras during required) in order to keep their team busy in the unlikely event they are quiet,
the project perhaps in those few weeks before a bigger contract starts.

EXTENSIONS 67
 ESTIMATING
EXTENSION
COSTS
Getting a better grip on extension costs
means understanding the details
Getting a firm idea of the eventual price of your extension project is one of
the critical paths to success. You will need it primarily, of course, so you can
start getting hold of the money – either from the bank or your own savings
– but you’ll also need to have a clear idea of costs because you’ll need to
know if the project makes financial sense in terms of the ceiling value of the
property itself.
Fundamentally, however, the key is not just to have an idea of what the
project might cost but ideally a fixed price that is actually a true reflection
of the real costs. In short, most extension projects cost around £1,850-
£2,500/m2 of new space. So a 30m2 kitchen extension could be estimated
at somewhere between £55,500-£75,000 for construction costs (plus VAT
at 20%). If that sounds suitably general – that’s because it is. And that’s all
you can expect when you have no detail or idea of what the extension looks
like, or what materials you’re going to use, or how it is going to be built (and
who’s going to do it). The £1,850-£2,500 price, however, is a very good range
of pricing based on averages.
Yours is likely to fall within that range, but it might be a bit less (if you
manage to use fairly cheap materials, have a ‘good value’ builder, or build it
yourself, and if it’s a straightforward build. It will be significantly more (well
in excess of £3,000/m2) if you’re using in-demand builders in an expensive
area, the build is complex, and the specification is at the Waitrose end of the
scale as opposed to the Aldi version of extension building.
Why are extensions so expensive?
If you’re building a brand new house from scratch, then the average cost is
£1,303/m2 (an average of over 500 projects surveyed for Homebuilding &
Renovating). Why is it cheaper to build from scratch than extend? There are
two main reasons. Firstly, the cost of the more expensive parts of a building
project – typically the roof and foundations/floor structure – can be spread
Photography: Getty Images/Sturti
out over a whole house, whereas with an extension, with relatively limited
space, they are concentrated. Simply put, you just don’t enjoy the economies
of scale on a smaller extension project that you would when building a big
new home.
Secondly, buildings vary in cost depending on what you put in them. A
kitchen, for example, with all its electrical points and plumbing circuits and
68 EXTENSIONS
units, lights and ovens is more expensive to fit out than a
bedroom, which is largely an empty space with minimal
systems and fitted with freestanding furniture. As most
extension projects tend to be for kitchens, the cost is
naturally higher.
Additionally, there is the element of ‘unknown’.
Whereas a new build project is entirely controllable
as it’s a blank canvas, and a renovation is entirely
uncontrollable because you never know what the old
house will throw at you, an extension is a mix of the two.
Tieing it into the existing house always involves some
element of demolition, and making good, and ensuring
the existing walls are in good repair — not to mention
extending the existing heating and electrical circuits.
Getting a fixed price that counts
So how do you get from the headline ‘typical’ cost to
working out a finished, fixed price? The best place to
start is to break down the project into stages, and set up
a spreadsheet that you could put some initial estimates
against. Here’s an example (based on a 30m2 single
storey kitchen extension):
❯ Foundations: £4,500
❯ Superstructure: £15,500
❯ Joinery (windows and doors): £9,500
❯ Electrics: £4,500
❯ Heating, plumbing and ventilation: £5,000
❯ Kitchen furniture and worktops: £15,000
❯ Flooring: £2,400
❯ Decorating and tiling: £3,600
❯ Total cost £60,000.
You can see that these are currently general guides. The
only way that they can begin to become fixed prices
is when you have a finished design. For example, until
you know how many bricks you need, and what type
you want, then your ‘superstructure’ cost is always
going to be an estimate. The more detail you put on the
design, the firmer the estimate. You can get prices in at
a relatively early stage for things like kitchens and patio
doors, and finalise the design and prices as you go.
The key to finalising a fixed cost is to ensure
everything is on the tender document for your builder
to price from. If he or she has to guess what you want,
your price will be a guess, too. Specify everything, down
to the last light fitting, and you’ll end up with a price at
the start that reflects what you’ll pay at the end.
Remember to add VAT
Don’t forget that any work carried out to an existing
home is subject to VAT at 20%. Ensure that when you
talk to builders they’re including VAT in the price they
give you (and not just adding it on when they invoice
you as an unpleasant surprise).
For most projects the
cost of an extension
is split roughly half
on labour and half
on materials — so
significant savings
can be made in both
the build management
decision as well as the
choice of materials
 AD V ERTORIA L

Protecting your
self-build project

Ensuring you have the correct insurance in place can give you peace of mind

W 4
hether you’re building a new home, renovating, Arrange for your warranty audits before you commence
extending or converting, things can go work. The additional audit checks carried out by
wrong, so make sure that you get the relevant the warranty surveyors are over and above (compliance)
insurances and protections in place as soon as you have inspections by the building control body — which adds
purchased the land. Here are simple things that can be done another layer of protection for you and your project.
to reduce the risks.

1 When purchasing a Self-Build Zone Site Insurance policy,

check your sums insured (the cost of rebuilding from
scratch) carefully, bearing in mind the type and size of project.
5 Make sure that any warranty you buy is backed by an
A-Rated insurer. In the last few years, at least three
unrated warranty insurers have withdrawn from the market,
leaving many customers having to purchase another policy.

2 Written contracts are a must right from the start. If you

don’t have them in place, you will have little protection
from your Legal Expenses policy which is included with your
6 Give prompt notice of any claim — taking notes, keeping
all receipts and taking photos frequently, as you go, can
all help your case in the event of a claim.
site insurance. Irrespective of this, verbal contracts don’t
prove that a contract was in place. Changes and variations to
the contract, often forgotten, also need to be evidenced. You
can find information and templates on our ContractStore
7 Make sure you fully understand your obligations under
the CDM Regulations 2015. These regulations apply to
self-builders too, so don’t get caught out!
package on our website and these are available as a package
or individually.
8 Put aside an adequate contingency fund, as most
projects go over time and over budget. Even better, use a

3 If you want to sell the house in within 10 years, your

buyer will probably require a warranty (which you can
transfer to them), so organise a 10-year Structural Warranty
qualified project manager.

For more information on Site Insurance and protecting your

for peace of mind. Retrospective warranties on completed project go to www.selfbuildzone.com, call 0345 2309874 or
houses are expensive and not accepted by all lenders. email sales@selfbuildzone.com.

EXTENSIONS 71
DESIGN
IDEAS
How to transform your home with your new space

EXTENSIONS 73
 Contrasting
extensions
Want to add space and visual interest to your home? Take a look at
this inspiring selection of extension projects, all of which shun the
idea that a new addition should match the old building
IMAGE: RICHARD DOWNER

74 EXTENSIONS
P
eople used to feel that extensions
should, as closely as possible, match
the building they were being added
to. While this undoubtedly produces some
seamless and sympathetic additions, it can
also create spectacularly bad results.
The worst ‘matching’ extensions feature
ugly seams between old and new, materials
that almost, but don’t quite, look the same
and rooflines that sit awkwardly together.
In many cases it is a far better idea to
design the extension to sit in complete
contrast to the original house in order that
both sections can shine in equal measure.
There is no reason why a contrasting
extension has to be whacky or ‘out there’
either. Sometimes, just a selection of
different materials or a shift in the shapes
and forms used in the design are enough.
Finally, remember, even when designing
an extension that is distinctly different
from the original building, it is important to
take into account what you already have, to
reflect it and creating subtle nods to certain
angles, colours, shapes or architectural
details. Do a good job of this, and no matter
how different the two sections of the house
are, they will sit harmoniously together.
THE GLASS BOX EXTENSION
This stunning glass extension was
designed by van Ellen + Sheryn. It links the
19th-century farmhouse to an adjacent
barn and provides unbroken views over the
Dartmoor National Park that it sits within.
EXTENSIONS 75
 IMAGE: ANDY MATTHEWS

THE PAVILION-STYLE
EXTENSION
This extension to a substantial family
home has been cleverly designed by
Tigg + Coll Architects to follow the
form of the existing house. Created in
the style of a ‘pavilion in the garden’,
the roof of the extension is pitched
to reflect the pitch of the original
house. The corner of the extension
is cantilevered, allowing the entire
glazed corner to be opened up — with
the sliding doors disappearing into
pockets in the wall.

A CONTEMPORARY YET
SENSITIVE EXTENSION
As it was being added to a traditional
agricultural barn on the edge of a
conservation area, Tim Offer Architects
took great care with the design of this
extension. Their goal was to meet the
requirements of not only the owners, but
also the planners and neighbours.
The rear addition has almost doubled
the footprint of the previously small
house and despite its crisp, modern
appearance, repeats the gabled form of
the original barn. The extension is clad in
zinc and cedar and these materials were
chosen specifically as a reference to the
IMAGE: MATTHEW SMITH

agricultural history of the building.

Although the extension incorporates
plenty of glazing in order to draw light
deep into the layout, privacy and shading
has been taken into account too with the
addition of a louvred cedar screen.

76 EXTENSIONS
 THE ALMOST INVISIBLE
EXTENSION
There’s no reason why
a contrasting extension
should dominate or
detract from the original
architecture of a building —
as this project, by Proctor &
Shaw proves.
To enhance the brickwork
of the original house, the
extension also features
brick cladding. This has
been cleverly incorporated
into the oversized linear
lintel that frames the
expanse of sliding doors.
The combination of
brick and glass blends the
extension into its landscape
IMAGE (RIGHT): STALE ERIKSEN

at the same time as drawing

out the fine details of the
larger section of the house,
while its linear form sits
in contrast to the vertical
nature of the original.

THE SMALL A MAISONETTE EXTENSION TO

BUT MIGHTY IMPROVE THE GARDEN VIEWS
EXTENSION The owners of this east London maisonette wanted an open
This striking kitchen dining room, with views out over their garden.
little extension, In order to achieve this in a rather limited space, a small
by Studio Bark, extension, designed by Architect Your Home, has been
might measure created, featuring an innovative roof structure that took
just four metres by inspiration from the ribs of a boat. The reverse pitch on the
three metres but full height window was a design trick to maximise the views
that doesn’t stop of the garden.
it from having a
hefty impact.
The ‘box’
features a timber
frame clad in
offcuts of UK-
sourced western
red cedar. In order
to maintain a crisp,
fuss-free finish,
the rainwater
downpipes have
been concealed
within the
cladding void and
now discharge into
the raised planters
located on either
side of the French
doors.

EXTENSIONS 77
 A FARMHOUSE UPDATED
Set in a picturesque Dartmoor valley, this
farmhouse has been fully refurbished
and given several new extensions —
one of which makes a bold and striking
architectural statement. To the east of the
house, a contemporary structure, which
comprises a smooth curve from wall to
roof, wraps over a structural glass box
IMAGE: RICHARD DOWNER

that holds a new living room within.

A total contrast to the rest of the house,
the extension, designed by van Ellen +
Sheryn, offers panoramic views across
the valley, so it creates an extraordinary
aesthetic effect both inside and out.

IMAGE: ANDY MATTHEWS

INGENIOUS EXTENSION TO IMPROVE ACCESSIBILITY
Designed by Tigg + Coll Architects, this striking extension has
transformed a 1930s bungalow into a stylish accessible home.
It was important to the family that the needs of their two
young sons, both of whom have Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy,
were catered for. They also wanted a good visual connection
between the house and the garden and for the vernacular,
height, scale and massing of the original cottage to be taken into
consideration in the design.
The large extension has a self-supporting roof with a timber
diagrid design that forms a continuous canopy over the internal
spaces and external terrace.
Meanwhile, the large expanses of openable glazing now link
the new bedrooms with the outdoors.

ARTS AND CRAFTS

HOUSE TRANSFORMED
The inspiration for this brick and
timber ground floor extension by
Proctor & Shaw was taken from the
timber staircase, bay windows and
fireplaces elsewhere in the house.
This extension is dominated by a
striking 3m wide ‘bay’ window that
combines oak beams and an accoya
IMAGE: EDMUND SUMNER

bifold window. To the inside of the

window, a bespoke sofa has been
installed — when the window is
opened, this becomes a bench on the
patio terrace, while when closed it is
a snug spot to enjoy the view.

78 EXTENSIONS
 R EAL PR OJECT
T ER R A CE EXT ENS I O N

b e f o re

ng outsi

BOX
k i
de
Thin

the

What began as a potential investment opportunity soon turned

into a renovation project for Tim and Aisling Cooney. With
the help of their architect, the couple transformed a run-down
terrace into a contemporary family home 

80 EXTENSIONS
GOING BOLD from Stark &
To complement Greensmith.
the shades As well as
within the weathering
original Victorian beautifully over
brickwork, Tim time, the material
and Aisling opted adds some
to wrap the serious wow
new additions factor to this
in corten steel historic home.

EXTENSIONS 81
82 EXTENSIONS
EXTENSIONS 83
 t i me l i ne

Property purchased Started on site Moved in

JUNE 2017 SEPTEMBER 2018 JUNE 2019

Planning approved Works complete

MARCH 2018 MAY 2019

HOMEOWNERS
Tim and Aisling Cooney

LOCATION East Dulwich, London

PROJECT Contemporary extension and

loft conversion of Victorian terrace

SIZE 180m2

BUILD TIME
Eight months (Sep 2018 - May 2019)
HOUSE COST £875,000
T im and Aisling Cooney had been East Dulwich
residents for over a decade and were living in a compact
apartment block when Aisling fell pregnant. The couple knew it
was time to find a suitable family home and decided to keep an
eye out for any ‘For Sale’ signs that cropped up in the area. 
“After living in cramped flats with low ceilings, we wanted
light and height,” Aisling says. “With a child on the way, we were
keen to have our own garden and a practical interior layout that
connected well with the outdoor space.” 
The pair eventually settled on a double-fronted Victorian
house with lots of potential. The couple had travelled past the
house for years, and its location, scale and garden were perfect
BUILD COST £405,800 for their needs, but it needed modernising.
The neighbouring residence had been converted into
VALUE £1.6million
flats and initially, Tim and Aisling liked the idea of a home
that doubled as an investment opportunity. “We thought we
WORDS Jennifer Grimble
could live in one of the apartments and rent them out later,
PHOTOGRAPHY Simon Maxwell
if we moved,” Tim says. “Whatever we did, we wanted to be
and Joe Traylen Photography 
respectful of the house and its history.”

CHANGING PLANS
The property came with confused deeds and a gentlemen’s
agreement concerning the boundary line. A party wall surveyor
was appointed to address the issues and an Award was agreed. 
Once this issue had been resolved, the couple considered
several architects, before hiring Stephen Butt of Lendel
Stephens. Stephen designed two schemes simultaneously: a

“I’ve always seen the kitchen as the heart of a

family home. It’s the perfect space for us”

84 EXTENSIONS
 R E A L P R O J E C T T E R R A C E E X T E N S I O N

GARDEN VIEWS
Sliding pocket
doors from
Maxlight provide
views of the
garden, while
a large custom
roof window
also brings
natural light
deep into the
floorplan. (The
kitchen units are
from deVOL.)

XXXXXXXX
xxxxx

EXTENSIONS 85
 xxxx
xxxxxxx

86 EXTENSIONS
SAVVY STORAGE
Clever space-
saving ideas,
including a slide-
out cupboard
under the stairs,
provide Tim and
Aisling with
plenty of room
for storage,
while retaining
a sleek, modern
finish.
ZONING ROOMS
A light-filled
living room leads
into a dining
room, separated
by steel-framed
doors, which
allow the two
spaces to feel
connected yet
distinct from one
another.

flat conversion and plans for a single home. “The conversion
into flats was a long shot because the council’s planning policy
promotes the retention of family homes in the borough,”
Stephen says. Sure enough, the idea was rejected, so Tim and
Aisling ran with the family home design.
The Cooneys knew they wanted the kitchen to be the heart
of the home. “The basis of the design was ensuring that the
interior worked for our busy lives. It needed to flow and we
wanted to be able to close off spaces when needed,” says Aisling.  FAMILY-FRIENDLY FINISH
Stephen proposed opening up the front of the house,
removing the cramped hallway and re-orientating the staircase.
“The design removed a reception room, but created a spacious
entrance with a WC, utility room and bespoke staircase,”
Stephen explains.  together and providing a striking contrast between old and new.
He also suggested that the home’s new additions be clad
with corten steel and material lover Tim was immediately
taken with the idea. “We chose a lot of the materials simply
because Tim wanted to have a play,” Aisling laughs. “I needed
some persuading because I thought it might look harsh,
but Stephen had a vision and it made sense.” The finished
design incorporated an extensive internal reconfiguration
and makeover, and a kitchen extension and a loft conversion,
formed from three corten steel boxes.
GETTING UNDERWAY
Stephen took on project management duties [see page 89 for
more] and the couple, who rented locally, visited frequently
to check on progress. Regular site meetings were held and
Stephen developed drawings with the contractor for the home’s
bespoke joinery and corten cladding, which proved to be the
most challenging aspect of the build.
The steel was custom-made in the west country and
transported to London. Since there are only a few specialists
that work with corten, this part of the project was handed to
another contractor. “Errors were made along the way, but there
was a refreshing willingness from the contractors to correct
mistakes and real pride was taken in the finished product,”
Stephen explains. “It was great working with quality materials
and craftspeople.”
A fabric-first approach was also taken, with high performance
glazing specified and the existing building fabric insulated. A
green roof was added to the ground floor extension; this can be
seen and enjoyed from the rear bedrooms.
Eight months later, the couple moved into their new home.
While the front retains its period charm, the rear of the
house is beautifully contemporary, thanks to the corten steel.
The material steps down the façade, binding the new spaces
Inside, the kitchen is the focal point and opens up onto the
landscaped garden via sliding pocket doors. “I love cooking and
I’ve always seen the kitchen as the heart of a family home. It’s
the perfect space for us,” Aisling says.
The top floor has been transformed into a stunning master
suite with enviable views, an en suite and a dressing area
cleverly partitioned off. The room’s full-height sliding glass
doors are shaded by a perforated privacy screen. The rest of the
house blends period styles – cast iron radiators, sash windows
and traditional ceiling roses– with modern, family-friendly
materials, such as oak, terrazzo and polished plaster. 
“The plaster looks great and is extremely low maintenance,”
Tim says. “The house isn’t ostentatious. Every detail was
chosen for its quality, durability and value for money.” 
For Aisling, the best part was moving in. “The house is
perfect for our needs and surpasses anything we could have
envisioned,” she says. For Tim, it’s the little things. “It seems
mundane, but being able to see through the house to the garden
is the most satisfying thing for me, especially after years of
living in small flats,” he says. “Creating a bespoke space is very
rewarding. We’ve achieved what we wanted and now have a
home that works for us.”

EXTENSIONS 87
 THE MASTER
SUITE
A partition wall
has been added
behind the bed to
maximise space
and act as a
private dressing
area. The corten
screen in the en
suite also allows
for privacy
and brings
natural light
into the space.
The polished
plaster and
terazzo are low-
maintenance
material choices.

spotlight on:
Hiring an Architect
to Project Manage
As first-time renovators, Tim and Aisling didn’t know
what to expect. Initially, Tim was keen to take a hands-on
role in the process, but quickly realised that, as he would
be working abroad at the time and Aisling would be caring
for their new-born, hiring Stephen Butt, their architect,
to project manage meant they could continue their busy
lives while their project was in safe hands. 
“We made a conscious decision early on for Stephen to
take on this role,” says Aisling. “We had a very transparent
relationship and a lot of confidence in him, so it became
clear that he could remove a lot of the stress. Putting our
trust in an expert was by far the best decision we made.” 
Thanks to clear lines of communication, the planning
stage was easy and even enjoyable. And being experienced
in dealing with contractors, Stephen was also able to
handle any issues that arose during the build, without
having to involve the Cooneys unnecessarily. “Builders
can sometimes cut corners, but Stephen ensured
everything was completed as planned, to the highest
possible standard,” says Tim. “Everything was tightly
understood. That clarity made the project a success.” 
Stephen was able to react and make alterations quickly
to keep the build moving too, and when it came to budget
management, his assistance proved invaluable. “He
helped make the project what it is and shielded us from
problems,” Aisling says. Tim agrees: “On reflection,
if we’d have tried to project manage, we’d have made
mistakes we couldn’t afford. The scheme would have gone
in a completely different direction.”
As for advice, Tim has one clear message: “If you choose
to trust an expert, try not to interfere,” he advises. “We
agreed to the design and were disciplined enough not to
make changes along the way. We trusted Stephen’s vision
and allowed him to guide the build to a smooth finish.” 

EXTENSIONS 89
90 EXTENSIONS
EXTENSIONS 91
EXTENSIONS 93
 t h e p l a ns
PROJECT COSTS
THE FLOORPLAN SECOND FLOOR
PRELIMINARIES £21,000
Opening up the front of the
house means there is now a DEMOLITION AND ALTERATIONS
clear line of sight all the way to
£25,500
the garden, flooding the house
EN SUITE MASTER BEDROOM
with natural light and making SUBSTRUCTURE (foundation and slab)
the once cramped entrance far
£10,000
more inviting. The first floor now
houses three large bedrooms and UPPER FLOORS £9,000
two bathrooms, while the new
loft conversion offers a striking ROOF STRUCTURE AND COVERING
master suite with enviable views. DRESSING AREA
£36,000

STAIRS £8,000
STORAGE EXTERNAL WALLS AND CLADDING
£35,000

GROUND FLOOR WINDOWS AND EXTERNAL DOORS

FIRST FLOOR
£47,000

INTERNAL DOORS £7,000

INTERNAL WALLS £13,000

GREEN ROOF
WALL FINISHES £8,000
KITCHEN DINER
FLOOR FINISHES £23,000

CEILING FINISHES £7,500

DINING ROOM
DECORATION £12,500
EN SUITE BEDROOM
BATHROOM FITTINGS £30,000

KITCHEN £25,000
UTILITY
MECHANICAL INSTALLATIONS £30,000

ELECTRICAL INSTALLATIONS £20,000

HALLWAY LIVING ROOM
BEDROOM BEDROOM
DRAINAGE £9,000

EXTERNAL WORKS £11,300

WC VARIATIONS £18,000

TOTAL £405,800

SUPPLIERS POLISHED PLASTER Decor Tadelakt: www.tadelakt.co.uk 

ARCHITECT Lendel Stephens: www.lendelstephens.com  ROOF WINDOWS

The Rooflight Company: www.therooflightcompany.co.uk 
MAIN CONTRACTOR AND JOINERY
RMC Design and Build: www.rmcdesignbuild.co.uk  SASH WINDOWS
Global Doors & Windows: www.globaldoorsandwindows.com  
PARTY WALL SURVEYOR ASH Chartered Building
Surveyors: www.ash-surveyors.co.uk  TERRAZZO BATHROOM FLOORING
Diespeker & Co: www.diespeker.co.uk 
QUANTITY SURVEYOR
MESH Construction Consultancy: www.meshcc.com  KITCHEN deVOL: www.devolkitchens.co.uk 

SLIDING GLAZED DOORS Maxlight: www.maxlight.co.uk  LIGHTING Astro Lighting: www.astrolighting.com 

TIMBER FLOORING The Natural Wood Floor Company: JOINERY AND BESPOKE STAIRCASE DESIGN
www.naturalwoodfloor.co.uk Lendel Stephens: www.lendelstephens.com 

94 EXTENSIONS
 R EA L PR OJECT
C O N T EM P O R A RY EXT ENS I O N

Into
the Daniela and Duncan
Forbes have remodelled
their 1950s villa near
Edinburgh, improving
its energy efficiency and
blue
adding a wraparound
extension with a
contemporary cladding

BEFORE

96 EXTENSIONS
EXTENSIONS 97
HOMEOWNERS
Daniela and Duncan Forbes

LOCATION
West Edinburgh

PROJECT
Remodelled and extended 1950s villa

SIZE 150m2

BUILD ROUTE Main contractor

CONSTRUCTION
Timber frame for roof and inner leaf
W hen Daniela and Duncan Forbes
bought an unusual 1950s two-storey detached villa in a village
near Edinburgh, they were confronted by a common problem
encountered in many period properties: a lack of connection
and flow between areas. The beautiful south-facing garden
accompanying the property felt almost completely separate
from the house, and the configuration of the ground floor living
rooms was far from ideal for a young couple and two children
looking for an open, modern family home.

of walls, blockwork outer leaf of walls,
aluminium mesh cladding
BUILD TIME
Six months (Jun 19 - Nov 19)
BUILD COST £104,500
VALUE Undisclosed
WORDS Caroline Ednie
PHOTOGRAPHY David Barbour
GETTING STARTED
Unsurprisingly, Daniela and Duncan had made the decision to
renovate and extend the property and budgeted accordingly
when they bought it in 2018. Living in the house as it was for
around eight months only cemented their resolve. It was at this
point that the couple took the first step towards their vision and
approached Neil Taylor of Edinburgh-based TAP Architects, a
former school friend of Duncan’s.
The couple’s brief looked to address the shortcomings of the
ground floor by streamlining the living spaces and creating a
large central kitchen for Daniela, who is a professional cook and

EXTENSIONS 99
 TOGETHER BUT
DIFFERENT
The glazed
partition
between the
kitchen and
the dining /
living area
creates a partial
separation while
still leaving a
clear line of sight
right through to
the garden.

catering consultant. Extending the house to create a dining and

lounge space with a strong connection to the garden was also a
pressing priority.
“There was this beautiful view at the back, but the only areas
in the house where you could see the garden were a utility room
and glimpses from a badly constructed, draughty sunroom,”
explains Daniela.
“The internal layout was awkward, with a constricted
entrance space under a porch running into a narrow hall
with a dark kitchen on the north-east corner of the house,”
say architect Neil Taylor of the challenges faced. “There was
an L-shaped living room arrangement that went into an
uninsulated and unattractive sunroom and conservatory.
It was clear that we had to take these away and find a way of
reconfiguring the ground floor to create the open-plan spaces
sought and a connection to the garden.”

IMPROVING THE EXISTING HOUSE

A key aim of the project was to minimise structural alterations
to the existing house as far as possible. As a result, the new
extension is built to roughly the same footprint as the previous
conservatory and sunroom to the back and side of the house.
“We didn’t do anything major apart from creating the large
opening that connects the spaces in the new extension to the
garden,” says Neil.
The planning process and five-month build project were
straightforward, despite the house being in a conservation area,
and principally involved constructing a highly insulated timber
frame extension with dense blockwork walls behind the mesh
cladding on the extension. The location of the house below a
flight path informed the thickness of the walls and was also
factored into the noise absorbing super-insulated membrane
roof, the amount of glazing and the number of openable doors
and windows. “We didn’t go for bifolding doors. Instead we
chose a fixed door to the extension due to the noise from the
flight path,” says Daniela.
The existing house has also been upgraded with insulation
to the loft and double-glazed windows. A new boiler and
underfloor heating have been installed within the extension,
creating a much more energy efficient house.
REORGANISING SPACES
The key alteration to the ground floor was moving the kitchen
from the dark north-east corner into a central position, with
views through an internal glazed screen into the new living and
dining space in the extension and the garden beyond. The old
kitchen area is now home to a snug, and a new master bedroom
and shower room have been created.
The family stayed off site during the build, renting locally
and staying with family. However, Daniela was closely involved
in sourcing internal fixtures and finishes, including the new
stainless steel kitchen, the shower room fittings, the engineered
oak flooring and the wardrobes in the bedroom.
“The whole house works really well now,” concludes Daniela.
“It doesn’t feel like two separate spaces when you move
between the old and new parts of the house. The way Neil has
made the space work feels so natural, like the way the house
should have always been.” 

100 EXTENSIONS
 R EA L PROJECT
T ER R A CE EXT ENS I O N
A N D GA R D EN O FFI CE

Working
from
home
Richard John Andrews used his extension and
garden studio as a test bed for his architectural
ideas. Here, he talks to Ellen Finch about his project

MATERIAL
CHOICES
“The studio is an
interpretation
of modular
design,” says
Richard. “We
used construction
plywood that
we could coat
with a treatment.
It means that
regardless of
what we’re
doing, whether
model-making
or pinning stuff
up on the walls,
it doesn’t affect
the condition of
them.” Richard’s
dad helped him
make the sliding
doors from PAR
redwood stained
with Osmo oil.

bef or e

102 EXTENSIONS
EXTENSIONS 103
 t i me l i ne

Planning permission Started on site

Bought house application MAY 2016
2015 FEBRUARY 2016

Planning permission Completed

approved JULY 2017
MARCH 2016

HOMEOWNERS
Richard John and Kristina Andrews
with their dog, Baloo

LOCATION London

SIZE 42m2 (extension only)

BUILD TIME 14 months

HOUSE COST £375,000

BUILD COST £97,500

M uch to my envy, there are
people out there – perhaps you’re one of them – who can knock
up a coffee table, desk or even a shed at a moment’s notice. But
for even the most DIY-savvy, building an extension by yourself
is a step too far — unless you’re Richard and Kristina. The
couple bought their Victorian terrace, then a five-bedroom
house in multiple occupancy (HMO), with a view to extend and
modernise throughout. Taking on the build work by themselves
was just another layer to add to the challenge. Of course, it
helps that Richard’s an architect. After drawing up plans for the
build, he decided to see the process through himself to further
VALUE £550,000 (estimated) his understanding of what makes a project work. Designed with
working from home and the couple’s love of hosting a party in
WORDS Ellen Finch
mind, the resulting extension and garden studio is a unique,
PHOTOGRAPHY Chris Snook
social space that’s testament to what the skill, creativity and
STYLING Amelia Smith
imagination of two people can do.

Walking through your house, it’s hard to imagine

this was once an HMO. It must have been a huge
undertaking — where did you start?
It was! It was originally a three-bedroom house, but when we
bought it, previous owners had converted the two living rooms
into bedrooms, too. It was in pretty dire straits. We had a budget
and we knew we might have to give a bit extra further down the
line if we didn’t want to compromise on finishes. We completed
on the sale the week before Christmas, so when we went away
over the holidays, I started on the design work.

“We’ve been constantly experimenting. I wanted

to explore design elements from start to finish”

104 EXTENSIONS
EXTENSIONS 105
Obviously, as an architect, you got stuck in with the
design side of things, but you also took on the build
work yourself, didn’t you?
That’s right. We put in for planning permission and got it
granted in April, and I started demolishing the existing two-
storey extension in May with the help of my wife. We dug out all
the concrete and got it down to ground zero, so to speak. Then
we set out everything from there. I took a year-long sabbatical
where I put all my projects on hold and dedicated my time to
being on site and building the extension.

Were you hoping to try out new project ideas?

Right from the start, I used it as a test bed — exploring what I
could do in terms of creating a bespoke kitchen at a fraction
of the cost, or building a studio from scratch to achieve that
work-life separation. We’ve done the work over two phases so
far – the first was the extension, the second the garden studio
– and the third phase will be a loft conversion. We’ve been
constantly experimenting. I wanted to explore design elements
and analyse the process of the build from start to finish.
Understanding how something is physically built helps you
design to the best of your ability.
I’m sure you’re used to a fair bit of dust on site, but
how did you cope with living in during the build?
We sectioned rooms off to use as a lounge and bedroom while
we did the work. We prioritised creating a watertight shell
in case the money dried up, so we finished the extension
downstairs and upstairs to form the kitchen and bathroom
first, getting them completed to a standard we were happy
with. Then we reassessed the money and worked out how
much we had left to finish the rest of the house off. We used
downstairs as a temporary flat with a now-working kitchen
while we renovated upstairs, plastering, painting and putting
in rooflights above the staircase. Then we finished off the
downstairs. We’d lived on site for a project in our old flat and
this was a bit like that, but over a massively extended period!
When planning the extension, what sort of vision did
you have for the space?
Because I work from home and we both need flexibility, we
wanted the downstairs area to cater for our slightly nomadic
professional lives, so we can work anywhere from the front
room to the studio. We also wanted it to double up as an
interesting place to entertain, whether we’re having dinner
parties at the table or barbecues in the garden. It needed to be
flexible enough to accommodate our friends with children, too.
I set the studio up with a sofa and a big TV, so when we have
barbecues, the kids can watch Netflix. It means the space is
practical enough so that our friends can relax and know that
their kids have spaces they can be comfortable in, too.
It sounds like you put a lot of thought into the lifestyle
you wanted when you were planning the build — is
that something you also encourage clients to do?
I always ask clients what they do, what their friends are like,
how they want to live in the space, and whether there are
any special circumstances that could stop guests from being
there. I mean, why would you design a space that couldn’t
b e f o r e
accommodate friends and family? People don’t initially
understand when I go down that line of questioning, but they
do when the build’s finished and they see how well it works.
How did you connect the old and new spaces?
I designed the extension so that it looks like it slots in and
fixes onto the existing house. We started with the idea that
everything under the flat part of the ceiling needed to be
really practical — it accommodates the storage and appliances
that come with a kitchen, freeing up the rest of the space for
dining and entertaining. We kept the original brick around the
doorway leading to the middle room, so there’s a continuation
from the outside space. When you look at it from the garden,
it looks like the cork element, the kitchen and the floor were
slid in and could potentially be removed. Inside, our aim was
to create zones. The middle room is somewhere we spend a lot
of time in, whether it’s working, having friends over or training
Baloo, so we wanted to keep it bright and airy. The front of the
house is darker and more secluded — it’s a restful space where
the two of us can relax with a bottle of wine and a film.
What have you learned from the project?
I think I would have liked to have been stronger when we
started the project — it might have helped speed up the build
work! In all seriousness, though, we entered the build with
open eyes and we were very much about the idea of pushing our
boundaries. If we’d had another £10,000, it would have been
amazing to get another person on site on a purely logistical
level — things like having to lift a big piece of wood or steel are
much more difficult on your own! Because it was all a test bed,
I don’t think we’d change anything — everything we’ve done,
we’ve learned from. The kitchen was a massive triumph and
Kristina’s garden work has been incredible. I think we’ve got it
pretty spot on.

EXTENSIONS 107
108 EXTENSIONS
 CREATIVE
CLADDING
Cork was chosen
to clad the
extension, as
it doesn’t swell
or get wet like
natural wood
and repels
water. Plus, it’s
a natural insect
repellent and
adds an extra
thermal layer to
keep the space
warm in the
colder months.

bef or e

EXTENSIONS 109
HAND-MADE
The modern
kitchen,
designed by
Richard John
Andrews Design
and Build, new
vinyl flooring
and pendant
lights from Ebay
bring an eclectic
finish to the
extension.

EXTENSIONS 111
 t h e p l ans
PROJECT COSTS
BUILD WORK £51,000
LIVING
BEDROOM ROOM
GARDEN ROOM £12,500

GLAZING £12,000

FIXTURES AND FITTINGS £10,000 

BEDROOM BREAKOUT
KITCHEN FIT-OUT
SPACE £4,500 inc. appliances

PROFESSIONAL FEES £4,000

BATHROOM FIT-OUT £3,000

KITCHEN

inc. fixtures, fittings and finishes

DECORATING £500 

KITCHEN TOTAL PROJECT COST £97,500

DINER
BATHROOM
SUPPLIERS
ARCHITECT Richard John Andrews:
www.richardjohnandrews.co.uk

STRUCTURAL ENGINEERING
Structure Workshop:
GROUND FLOOR BEFORE GROUND FLOOR AFTER
www.structureworkshop.co.uk

CORK CLADDING Mike Wye:

www.mikewye.co.uk

SLIDING DOORS Maxlight:

WC

BEDROOM

OFFICE
www.maxlight.co.uk

ROOFLIGHT
The Standard Patent Glazing Company:
www.patent-glazing.com
BEDROOM
DECKING Wickes: www.wickes.co.uk
GARDEN ROOM OFFICE CLADDING
Roofing Superstore:
BATHROOM www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk

BATHROOM TILES
Topps Tiles: www.toppstiles.co.uk

VINYL FLOORING
The Colour Flooring Company:
www.colourflooring.co.uk

SANITARYWARE Ebay: www.ebay.

co.uk; Matki: www.matki.co.uk

PLYWOOD (kitchen, worktops and

FIRST FLOOR AFTER dining table) T Chambers & Sons:
www.tchamberstimber.co.uk

112 EXTENSIONS
 AD V ERTORIA L
Custom build
an oak frame home
Oakwrights advises on how to create your dream
home in light of the Help to Build scheme
T
“ he growth of custom build sites across the UK has
created a new invaluable opportunity for self-
builders and it is being actively supported by the
government with its Help to Build scheme. “Our custom
build sites offer you a choice of building plots, crucially with
existing planning permission, highways access and utility
connections, leaving you with less risk and more time to
concentrate on creating your dream oak frame home,” says
James Buchanan from Oakwrights, who also sits on the
Help to Build steering committee.
WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF THE CUSTOM
BUILD ROUTE?
Custom build projects cut out some of the more frustrating
parts of self-build journeys, such as finding a plot and
getting planning permission. They are ideal for those eager
to get on with the design and build as soon as possible. In
the past, self-builders have had to find their own potential
building plot and take the risk that planning permission
may be refused. With our custom build sites, you select a
location and a plot that suits you, that has planning already
Discover plots for sale
on our website
www.oakwrights.co.uk
and start your custom
build journey and let our
in-house teams guide you
through the process by
calling us on
01432 353353.
granted, and has an outlined oak framed house design
and floorplan, which can be adapted to meet your specific
requirements. Not only that, you will join others to make up
a small self-build community.
ONCE YOU HAVE YOUR PLOT, WHICH IS THE
BUILD AND MANAGEMENT ROUTE FOR YOU?
Self-build, Self-managed and Turnkey are routes defined by
the amount of your involvement in your self-build project.
Self-build is the most involved, where you will commission
all your contractors throughout the process and may choose
to do some of the build yourself. Self-managed requires
the planning and management of your main building
contractors, who will broadly take responsibility for the
build. Our Turnkey service benefits from professional
project management by one of our team until the house is
ready for you to move in.
EXTENSIONS 115
SPECIFICATION
Extending your own home is a big shopping trip with
lots of critical choices to make
❯ Patio Doors

❯ Rooflights

❯ Flooring

❯ Kitchens… and more!

EXTENSIONS 117
 Let in
more
LIGHT
New windows will transform a run-down property,
boost kerb appeal and cut energy bills. Here’s
how to choose the right ones for your home

One of the advantages of timber

window frames is that they can
be painted in just about any shade
you can imagine. These windows
in a London extension, specified
by Nimtim Architects, include a
bespoke fixed-frame unit, £432
excluding painting, and UK08
Velux rooflights, H134xW140cm,
£648 each, all painted in bright
yellow. For a similar paint shade
and finish, try Little Greene’s
Mister David, £32 per ltr.

118 EXTENSIONS
Wooden window frames

▲
The original windows
Enduringly fashionable, thermally efficient and environ- of this kitchen were
mentally friendly, timber window frames are the best replaced with spiral
balance sliding sash
choice for Edwardian, Victorian and Georgian homes, windows in hardwood with
or for authentic new-builds that mimic these periods. applied hardwood glazing
For best results in a period property, ensure the new, bars and a microporous
double-glazed units reflect the original windows as far paint finish. Fitted with
with low-e (emissivity)
as possible, paying attention to the joinery quality, the
double-glazed units,
thickness of the frames and bars, and the design and they came with internal
finish of the ironmongery. shutters, finished in the
Timber window frames can be painted in a wide same microporous paint.
variety of colours, which makes them an ideal choice By Scotts of Thrapston,
windows are made to order,
for contemporary-style period homes and modern new- and prices are
builds, too. on application.
Check if the price quoted includes the glazing, fittings
and installation, and whether the windows will be fitted
▲

The owners of this

with an undercoat applied. Ensure, too, that there’s an period-style new-build
anti-rot warranty of at least 50 years. took great trouble to
specify the windows.
Which timber do you choose? The project included
the manufacture of
Hardwood, such as oak or ash, is typically denser, traditional casements
stronger and more durable than softwood, and won’t and an angled bay, a
need as much maintenance, but it is much more expen- charming diamond
sive. Timber frames do need repainting every few years, design, a large screen
and a feature window,
which will add to your costs – but if the job is done pro-
all of which give
fessionally, the frames themselves should last for years to the house distinct
come. Saving money by going for a softwood? Douglas character. By Westbury
fir is a hard-wearing choice. Joinery, prices vary
depending on scale of
project.
COST: Between £6,000 and £15,000 for softwood;
£8,000 and £20,000 for hardwood.*
▲

Jeld-Wen’s
Stormsure Standard
Casement windows
come in a wide range
of sizes, shapes,
styles and glazing
options; there is also
a selection of stain
and paint finishes to
choose from. Available
double-glazed in
softwood or oak, and
with various simulated
bar designs. A standard
open/fixed/open
configuration like this,
H100xW160cm, costs
around £875.
* PRICES ARE ESTIMATES

EXTENSIONS 119
 ▲
These bespoke-
Metal windows designed SL80 folding
With their slim sightlines and wide choice of colours glass windows, H220x
and finishes, improved security and high thermal W540cm, create a
efficiency, metal (usually steel and aluminium) window large picture window
when the slim frames
frames are popular for contemporary homes, with
are folded back.
modern designs coated with a specialist film to make Closed, they offer
them virtually maintenance and rust-free. excellent thermal
Since materials such as aluminium are so easy to resistance, and are
work with, thin profiles with neat, square edges are available with either
double or triple
easier to achieve than with wood or uPVC, meaning that glazing. The external
daylight and views are maximised. Or, you can install aluminium frames are
period-style metal framing with a modern twist and painted in RAL8025.
make an architectural feature of your windows. Crittall Made in Germany, to
install windows of
or Crittall-style windows (steel-framed designs usually
this size and style,
associated with Art Deco and Modernist buildings), including the fixed
are seeing a renewed popularity in contemporary elements, would cost
renovations of homes of all periods. £9,000 to £11,000,
Solarlux.
Why should metal frames
be thermally broken?
A thermal break is a depth of non-thermally conductive
material inside the frame that separates the inside and
the outside elements, and it is important to check your
windows have it. Why? Because metal conducts heat and
▲ This aluminium-
cold very easily, and non-thermally broken frames will framed casement
feel hot or cold to the touch as the frames outside are window is a bespoke,
made-to-measure unit.
heated or cooled by the weather. Part of a lightweight ▲
As well as reducing the thermal efficiency of the This slim-framed
range that can be
steel window was
window, a cold internal frame will attract condensation designed to order, it
hot dip galvanised
and frost, which will in turn damage internal surfaces, is available in
and powder painted
a selection of
such as your curtains or flooring. During the summer, using an advanced-
colours. It measures
hot frames will be an unwelcome source of heat. performance surface
H135xW168.5cm and
coating. It offers high
is from Express Bi-
thermal performance
COST: Between £8,000 and £20,000.* folding Doors.
and weather-proofing,
and requires minimum
maintenance. Prices
on application, Clement
Windows.
▲

With ultra-low
U-values, these triple-
glazed tilt and turn
aluminium windows
offer superior thermal
performance. They
come in a composite
design, too, with timber
frames on the internal
side. The windows are
all made to measure;
prices on application
from Livingwood
Windows

120 EXTENSIONS
 ▲
This inward-opening, tilt and turn Thermo Alu 80 window has
Composite windows engineered, laminated timber internal frames and external aluminium
If you like the look of timber but prefer the low cladding, which provides a strong, durable surface requiring minimal
maintenance of metal, composite frames are a good maintenance. The frame has a factory-applied paint or stain finish,
option, especially if you live in a coastal area that’s and comes with double or triple glazing. This window cost £1,530, but
expect to pay around £300 to £400/m2, Olsen.
exposed to the elements. Virtually maintenance free,
composite frames are very thermally efficient – you’ll
often see them matched with triple glazing and installed
in homes achieving Passivhaus standards.
Composite frames are typically made with an
engineered soft or hardwood internal frame, with
aluminium strips fitted externally to provide a
weatherproof capping. The frame’s sleek aluminium
strips can be powder-coated in a wide range of colours,
in gloss, matt, satin or anodised finishes
to create a contemporary look from the outside
that’s ideal for modern renovations.
For period properties, more traditional-looking
designs are starting to become available, too, with the
internal timber framing giving a softer finish that suits
these homes. This internal timber, just as with all-timber
frames, can be lacquered, stained or painted.

How does composite compare?

Composite window frames, like other quality units,
come supplied pre-assembled and factory-finished for
longevity – expect yours to last for up to 40 years, which
is comparable to timber frames. Good-quality uPVC
units should last up to 35 years, and metal frames up to
50 years. The downside? Composite windows are not an
inexpensive option.

COST: Between £10,000 and £25,000 – more if you

have the windows triple glazed.*
▲

The 255 sliding

window has a solid
oak interior and an
aluminium exterior.
It can be ordered
with a built-in insect
screen and either
light-filtering or
blackout shades. A
two-panel sliding
integrated window
– minimum H152.4x
W320cm – costs
around £8,000, not
including installation;
a four-panel folding
integrated window of
the same size, with a
shade one side and an
insect screen on the
other, costs around
£9,720, Centor.

EXTENSIONS 121
 uPVC windows
If budget is an issue, uPVC window frames are a more
affordable option. The upsides to uPVC are that it’s
virtually maintenance free, and efficiently reduces noise
intrusion and draughts. The downsides are
that uPVC frames cannot be easily repaired once
damaged, and budget designs will look cheap, reducing
your home’s kerb appeal. Plus, some future buyers may
still find window frames in uPVC off-putting, so think
carefully about fitting them if
you’re considering moving in the near future.
If you do go for uPVC frames, invest in the best you
can afford, and ensure they are as aesthetically pleasing
as possible by looking for designs with detailing such
as sculptured frames, beads, Georgian bars, woodgrain
effects and run through sash horns, deep bottom rails
and authentic, external putty lines.

How have uPVC window frames improved?

Once known for their undesirability in an area, thick
frames and tendency to discolour, new designs can
be made to mimic timber, with period-style designs
such as sash windows being so convincing as to be
acceptable to many local councils’ conservation officers.
Manufacturers are also improving the wrongly perceived
reputation that uPVC windows ▲ Exclusives Premium triple-
are environmentally unfriendly by using recycled glazed uPVC white woodgrain
casement window comes in 11
plastic to make them.
colour options, including white,
No longer just available in identikit white, green, grey, black, and woodgrain.
uPVC frames now come in a wide array of It can be ordered with two colour
contemporary colours and wood-effect finishes options – one inside and one for
to suit everything from an ultra-modern new-build outside – and measures around
H100xW200cm, from Everest.
to a charming country cottage.

COST: Between £5,000 and £15,000*

▲

These window
frames have the
traditional look of
flush-fitting timber
windows but are
what’s called ‘timber
alternative’, meaning
uPVC made to
convincingly
mimic wood. Virtually
maintenance free, they
are available flush or
stormproof frames.
Timber Alternative
casement windows in
white, H120xW180cm,
from Evolution. ▲ With flush external contours that are in
keeping with period properties, these Genesis Flush
Sash casement windows in uPVC replicate the
character of traditional timber frames. Available
in a range of colours and woodgrains, and with
traditional or contemporary window furniture.
Prices are on application from Bison.

122 EXTENSIONS
Folding doors
Folding doors are the most popular of glazed door
designs simply because they offer uninterrupted views
of the garden when open. They’re a flexible option, too:
in colder months, a single traffic door in the set can be
opened to provide outdoor access.

Choosing a folding door configuration

Folding door sets up to six metres wide usually consist
of three or more individual leaves that slide along a
track, to concertina at one end. They can either be top-
or bottom-hung. Think carefully about the side of the
opening you want your doors to stack, and whether you
want them to fold outwards into the garden; inwards
into the room; or half-in-half-out. Whichever option
you choose, it is impractical for furniture or garden
pots to sit in their path. Another important decision is
where the traffic door sits within the set, and in which
direction it opens. ▲ The owner of this house
wanted a large space that
Which material to choose? combined living, kitchen and
dining areas, connected to
Frames in aluminium, timber and composite
the garden by folding doors.
(aluminium with a wood overlay on the inside) come These are in aluminium, and
in a range of colours and finishes. The strength of a modern Anthracite Grey on
aluminium allows for slimmer sightlines and larger the outside with traditional
expanses of glazing than timber generally does. white on the inside. They
measure H2.15xW4.223m
and cost around £7,000
COST: Bi-fold doors are around £1,200/m*, with (excluding side panels),
bespoke hardwood designs a higher price point. Anglian

▲ Think about
glazing early on when
planning an extension.
Here, apex windows
and folding doors
maximise the link with
the outdoors from the
living area. The 3+1
▲

These Warmcore configuration measures

aluminium doors H2.23xW4.38m, from
have a full thermally around £1,440 per
efficient core, which is leaf, plus glazing and
particularly effective installation, Origin
when matched with
double- or triple-
glazing. Available as
single, French, bi-fold
and sliding doors (the
latter two in 4m and
6m widths) and H2.4m,
prices start around
£840 per door leaf,
Bison

EXTENSIONS 123
 ▲
Simple and chic,
Sliding doors sliding doors allow
Slim-framed sliding doors look contemporary and for wide expanses
sleek. They are ideal for very wide – generally around of glazing, perfect
six metre – openings and, because they can take for framing a view
larger panes of glass than folding doors, and have less and allowing in
maximum daylight. This
obstructive framework, they are the best for maximising made-to-order 211
views of the garden when closed. Sliding doors also Integrated Sliding Door
don’t take up space within a room or garden when H2.2xW2.7m, is from a
pulled back. The downside? As one panel is usually fixed, range of customisable
options. It comes
at least 50 per cent of the opening will always be covered
with a Standard
with glazing. Weave Insect Screen
and Tuscany Smoke
Choosing a sliding door configuration Blackout shade, and
There are a variety of configurations for this type costs around £8,913.60
plus installation,
of door: the basic one fixed panel, one sliding panel Centor
combination; two panes on a double track that slide
to allow for opening at either end; two sliding centre
panels that glide back over fixed end panes; and triple
track systems that allow multiple sliding panes to stack
one on top of the other. Sliding doors work well for
corner designs, too, where two sets of doors meet at a
90° angle, opening up a whole section of the room when
▲

Angled fixed-frame
pulled back. To work out which to choose, consider the glazing and a frameless glass
placement of furniture indoors and out, the best access balustrade above a lightwell
help to fill the rooms in this
from house to garden, and which open-door position extension with light and
will provide the optimum view. provide a dramatic contrast
between the extension and
How are sliding door systems operated? house. This two-panel Grand
Slider II aluminium sliding
Some sliding doors are on tracks; others, with a turn of a
door measures H2.353x
handle, lift a few millimetres, and glide open smoothly; W3.185m and is finished in
and there is the tilt and slide, meaning the doors can be Grey Aluminium (RAL 9007)
tilted inwards for ventilation, or will slide open. with stainless-steel handles
on the inside and out. The
system costs from £1,250/
COST: Sliding doors cost from around £1,100/m*. linear metre, including fitting,
ID Systems
▲

Despite the
impressive size of this
six-panel lift-and-slide
door system, opening
it is simplicity itself.
A turn of the handle
lifts the door onto
ball bearings, so even
panels weighing as
much as 300kg glide
back at the slightest
touch. Shown here
in RAL7016 and
H2.35xW13m, the XP
Glide R door system
is around £1,300/m,
including installation,
Expressv Bi-folding
Doors

124 EXTENSIONS
Metal-framed doors
Influenced by Crittall’s iconic windows and doors, and
the interior trend of industrial style, metal-framed
doors are making a real comeback, with original designs
vying with contemporary imitators. Ideal for modern
renovations of Georgian, Edwardian and Victorian
properties, they also bring character and texture to
contemporary new-builds. Although a range of opening
options is available, these doors generally look more
authentic as French doors, with door panels set into
larger expanses of metal-framed glazing creating the
most impressive finish.
The downsides? The dense, black nature of the
framing of these doors means the eye will focus on
them, rather than the garden beyond. If you would like
to strike a balance, look for designs with the slimmest
frames and largest glazed panels possible.

Choose the best metal-framed doors

Ensure the metal – including aluminium – doors you ▲ Working alongside ▲ For a traditional
ADE Architecture, Clement look with very modern
are considering have a thermal break (a depth of non- Windows created this standards of insulation,
thermally conductive material inside the frame that impressive EB24 floor- the Sieger Legacy
separates the inside and the outside elements) to prevent to-ceiling steel screen, door system recreates
excess heat loss and condensation. Check, too, whether H3.83xW4.2m, with single the appearance of
and double doors to the low-performing steel
the doors are supplied with toughened glass filled with frames. The glazing
terrace. The handles,
Krypton gas, which gives more insulation than standard hinges and concealed bars are bespoke so can
double glazing. Look for laser-cut hinges, which are bolts were all finished in be made to your own
machined through the frame, rather than added on dark bronze, while the design. This arrangement
afterwards, making them more secure. steel door sections are in is H3xW3.2m. Door
Granite Grey RAL7026. The Installation, including
24mm insulated glass units fixed side and over
COST: Industrial-style metal framed doors cost from are argon-filled. Price on lights, costs from around
£1,400/m. application £7,200, Sieger Systems
▲

The owners of this

house wanted to flood the
back of the property with
natural light, while ensuring
the renovation was in
keeping with original period
features. Floor-to-ceiling
steel twin French door sets
with openings above and a
fixed panel between, span
the height of the room. The
glazing covers H3.05x
W5.15m, and cost around
£12,000, Fabco Sanctuary

EXTENSIONS 125
 ROOFLIGHTS
Pitched, flat, solar reflective
— there’s more to rooflights
than meets the (upward looking) eye
Occasionally building terms can be straightforward, and the term rooflight
(sometimes referred to as a skylight) is a good example. It is an opening
in a roof designed to let light in. But behind the apparent simplicity of the
concept lies a surprisingly diverse group of products with differing purposes
and very different price points — from simple fixed skylights, costing a few
hundred pounds at most, to Centre Court-style glazed openings sometimes
costing as much as a small house. What they tend to have in common
is that they are made by specialists who rarely venture into the world of
conventional vertical windows.
Standard ‘wall-based’ windows are typically cheaper and better
understood, but often the configuration of a house is such that there are
dark corners that conventional windows can’t reach. Hence people look to
the roof as an alternative source of daylight. As pressure on space increases,
we find ourselves using roof space more and more, thus increasing the
popularity of rooflights.
Photography: David Woolley
126 EXTENSIONS
It’s worth mentioning that rooflights are sometimes
referred to as roof windows. (In this article we use
rooflight generically to describe both.)
Pitched rooflights
While the Victorians would sometimes fit small fixed
skylights in attics, the pitched rooflight came of age
in the 1970s when the British loft conversion boom
started. Before that, the principal method of getting light
into roof spaces was via a dormer window. These are
relatively expensive and bulky, and they break through
the roofline. In contrast, planners take a more relaxed
view of loft living when the existing roof shape doesn’t
change. The Danish company Velux enjoyed great
success in popularising the pitched roof window in the
1970s and 1980s. Their product was well engineered and
aesthetically pleasing. And, critically, it was possible for
a carpenter to fit a Velux in a day and to do it all from
the inside of the roof, thus reducing the demands for
scaffolding and tarpaulins. The success of Velux played a
big part in the popularity of loft conversions. There are
now several other successful businesses offering similar
products, but Velux remains the best-known brand.
And what was once a relatively simple offering has
 grown in complexity to include collapsible balconies, escape windows and
conservation rooflights for use in listed buildings. There is a wide choice
of blinds and awnings, and the rooflights themselves can now be opened
manually or automatically, powered either by the mains or solar cells. There
is also a range of glazing options to choose from, including triple glazing for
energy efficiency.
Flat rooflights
The flat or horizontal rooflight is a rather different animal. With contemporary
designs beginning to favour flat roofing once again, we are seeing a growing
number of daylighting solutions designed for horizontal use. At the basic end of
the spectrum, a polycarbonate rooflight costs as little as £250. It can be double
or triple skin and configured to open for venting. Switching to glass roughly
doubles the price but adds to the longevity. Velux now carries an interesting
range of modular rooflights that can be installed in a series to give a glass-roof
effect. And for locations where a conventional rooflight isn’t suitable, the sun
tunnel is now seen as an effective alternative. Moving on from off-the peg
solutions, there are specialists supplying bespoke glazing solutions for roofs,
often combining vertical, horizontal and sloped glazing. While off-the-shelf
rooflights will cost from £500 to £5,000, bespoke glazing solutions tend to start
at around £10,000 and have almost no upper limit. The possibilities are huge.
Glazing can be made strong enough to walk on, or retractable so that you can
open up the room below to the elements. It can be configured as lanterns or
even stairwells for use where the roof becomes a terrace. Glass is being used
here as both a walling and roofing element, and bespoke glazing solutions are
Photography: Katie Lee
beginning to move away from the basic rooflight. Yet their
attraction remains the same: bringing light into dark places.
Too much of a good thing?
Such is the effectiveness of modern double or triple
glazing that people fitting rooflights are more concerned
about summer overheating than overall energy
efficiency. Summer sunshine can sometimes cause
spaces behind the glass to become uncomfortably hot.
This is a possibility if the rooflights face south and the
room they light is relatively small.
One solution is to specify solar reflective glass, or
glass with a low G factor, such as Velux’s Glazing 60,
which keeps the solar radiation levels down to as little as
30%. This undoubtedly helps but it does rather dull the
quality of the light. Another is to use physical shading,
either using removable awnings or fixed panels (brise
soleil), which keep off the high summer midday sun but
not the lower-angle sunlight enjoyed in the evenings
and in winter. Barring these interventions, the best
approach is to limit the ratio of rooflights to floor area
to around 10%. This should provide plenty of light to
the room without too much overheating. Many rooflight
solutions come with built-in ventilation, and this can
also be deployed to even out temperature differences.
Try to limit the ratio of
rooflights to floor area
to around 10%, which
ensures that plenty
of light is provided
without too much
chance of overheating
EXTENSIONS 127
 BUYER’S GUIDE
Animal, vegetable or mineral was once a very popular
word game — it’s also a good place to start thinking about
your floor finish. Animal matter, usually wool, is used for
carpet; timber is classed as a vegetable, and stone, whether

TO FLOOR
natural or man-made, is clearly a mineral. But which
should you use?
Unfortunately, the choice is not quite so
straightforward. Many carpets are now made of sisal,

FINISHES
What’s on trend when it comes to
floor finishes? And which make the
best sense for your extension project?
seagrass, coir or jute, in other words vegetables. And
the flooring stores are currently full of porcelain tiles
(mineral) with a timber-like finish. Or take a peek
at the LVT (luxury vinyl tile) catalogues and see
manufacturers’ convincing ranges of stone and wood-
effect tiles. Then ponder on whether vinyl is a mineral
or a vegetable.
All options come with a wide spread of prices. You
can purchase laminate flooring for less than £5/m2,
while it’s not hard to find flooring options costing over
£100/m2. With a typical self-build internal floor area
of 150m2, your choice of floor finish will have a major
effect on your overall budget. A £5/m2 floor is not as
pleasing to look at as an expensive one and, as a self-
builder, you will have to live with the floor long after
installation costs are forgotten.
As a general rule, timber is gorgeous to look at when
laid, but it requires ongoing maintenance to continue
looking good and is probably best avoided in kitchens
and bathrooms.
Natural stone looks better (slightly) than man-made
alternatives but like timber, can require more care when
laying as well as on-going maintenance. Carpet is still
popular but is rarely used outside bedrooms. And tiles?
Rubber, cork, vinyl and linoleum are all still widely used,
mostly in bathrooms and utility areas.

The impact of underfloor heating

If you specify underfloor heating, you need to consider
the effect it has on your floor above. It works on the
principle of using the entire floor surface as a heater and
it can be laid in a wet screed or it can be clipped under a
timber floor. Its resultant performance is rather different.
A heavy screed works like a storage heater, taking a long
time to heat up and cool down. It therefore tends to
work best with either thin vinyl tiles or thicker stone or
porcelain tiles which absorb the heat.
By contrast, timber and thick carpet are moderately
good insulators and so they make the underfloor
heating work harder to get the same effect. When laid
Engineered wood is under these floor finishes, the underfloor heating acts
typically easier to like a conventional radiator system, in that the room
maintain than natural heats up and cools down quickly.
wood planks — it is
usually pre-finished and
the lack of moisture
Laying floor finishes over a screed
content ensures stability If you are using a wet screed on your ground floor –
most people do – great care must be taken to ensure that

128 EXTENSIONS
your screed has fully dried out before you lay any cover
over it. Any water sitting in the screed will find a way
out eventually and, in doing so, it may ruin a floor cover,
especially a timber one. Conventional wisdom states
that you should allow a day’s drying for every millimetre
of screed, which translates to around two months for
a 65mm screed. Underfloor heating can be used to
speed the process up, but even here it must be used with
caution. Heed the advice of your flooring contractor —
don’t rush the floor finish.
Most flooring contractors recommend that if you
want a timber floor over underfloor heating, you should
fit an engineered timber floor rather than solid flooring,
as it is more stable and less prone to movement. And if
you fit a stone or porcelain floor, you should use an anti-
fracture membrane underneath to reduce the possible
risk of thermal cracking.

On trend
Polished concrete can produce a wonderful looking
floor and is available in a wide range of colours. It’s a job
done almost exclusively by specialists and the costs are
in excess of £100/m2, which puts it firmly at the upper
end of the cost spectrum. However, it is a one-step
process which does away with the need for a screed.
Many apparently well-priced stone or porcelain floor
options end up costing just as much, once you have
factored in screed and laying costs.
Polished concrete requires a lot of preparation and
it’s not something to be jumped into lightly. Consider it
from the outset of your project.

Wood-effect porcelain
Italian porcelain manufacturers have been perfecting
techniques for photo-etching the surface of their tiles
and we are now seeing ranges of porcelain floor tiles
that are convincing copies of natural floor surfaces,
notably timber. However, with some priced at over £50/
m2, more than timber floors, why not fit the real thing?
The answer lies in its maintenance-free qualities, which
makes porcelain a very popular choice for extenders.

Carpet is still the natural

choice for upstairs
spaces — a good quality
underlay and neutral
colour can give it a fresh
yet comfortable feel

EXTENSIONS 129
 Natural stone tiles
Stone tiles, as opposed to ceramic or porcelain, are
quarried from the ground and not manufactured. Each
quarry is different; indeed each seam is different, so
you have a little bit of natural history in your home —
especially if you select a limestone in which fossils are
visible. However, stone floors take a lot of looking after,
both in the laying and aftercare. Generally, bigger rooms
look best with larger tiles and the cost of stone tile floors
increases as the tile size increases. Stone also tends to get
worked into different finishes, such as polished, tumbled
or honed.

Timber
The big debate on timber floors is whether to go for a
natural wood plank, or to opt for an engineered timber
floor which is, typically, a 3mm veneer (ideally more
if you want to sand it back in the future) of a specific
timber laid on top of a 12mm plywood base.
Prices are similar: the engineered timber uses less
expensive wood but takes time to prepare. Many
self-builders are attracted to natural wood, for the
same reason they like natural stone, but both can be
temperamental to lay and to look after. The engineered
version is therefore becoming more popular, especially
when laid over underfloor heating.

Tiled flooring is the

obvious choice for
kitchens — porcelain
is preferable as it’s
stain-resistant and
highly durable

130 EXTENSIONS
 10 STEPS TO 1
YOUR DREAM
KITCHEN
Renovation expert Jason Orme offers
his step-by-step guide to choosing
and installing your perfect kitchen
Photography: Malcolm Menzies
132 EXTENSIONS
Understand the space you have
Before you start choosing units and tiles, you
need to understand the space you’re working with.
Whether you’re refreshing your existing kitchen, or
planning to extend or knock down interior walls to
create more room, ask a kitchen company, an architect
or architectural technologist for scale drawings. This
will enable you to see exactly how much room you have
to work with, and you can start planning how to make
the most of it. Think about the location of internal and
external doors and windows, so you have the best flow
possible between your kitchen, outside space and the
rest of your house. Have a clear idea of how much you
want to spend before contacting a designer, as this will
ensure you end up with a scheme you can afford.
2
Consider the best layout
You need to design the kitchen layout to fit your
lifestyle. If you want an open-plan kitchen-living-
diner, think about where each zone will work best.
It usually makes sense to have the kitchen in the darkest
part of the space, with the dining and living areas –
 where you will spend more time relaxing – closest to
windows overlooking the garden. There’s a growing
trend for ‘broken plan’ living, where the spaces are only
partly separated — you may want to include a half wall
between the kitchen and living space, or a pocket sliding
door that allows you to divide off the dining room for
more formal entertaining. Breakfast bars or islands are
a key component of most kitchens these days, so work
with your designer to decide the best location for yours.
You don’t want it to interrupt the flow of the room, and
may want to integrate your sink or hob into the island
to allow the chef to interact with people using the rest
of the space. You’ll also need to consider your glazing
choices carefully, as this can make or break a design: do
you want bi-fold or sliding doors? Would rooflights help
bring natural light into the depths of the room? Now
is the time to make these major decisions.
3
Decide exactly what you want
Once you’ve decided on the best layout, you can start
finalising the details. Do your research to find out
exactly what style of kitchen suits your taste and lifestyle.
Photography: Darren Chung
For instance, if you have young children, smooth, wipe-clean units will be
easier to keep clean than painted Shaker-style ones. You’ll have to live with
the design for years, so it’s worth spending time getting it right. Use homes
magazines, architectural websites, kitchen company catalogues, design books
and Pinterest to pull together a mood board of what you like. Allow yourself
a few months to do this and you’ll soon see key themes emerging. You’ll also
need to finalise your budget at this stage to make sure you’re not looking at
options out of your price range. Remember that just because you can’t afford
high-end design choices like marble work surfaces, it doesn’t mean you can’t
get the look with a cheaper alternative, such as a quality laminate. The huge
range of kitchens on the market means, if you are willing to shop around, you
can get a kitchen you love at a price you can afford.
4
Get the permission you need
If you’re planning to make internal structural changes to your kitchen,
such as knocking down the wall between your kitchen and dining
room, you won’t usually need planning permission, as this is covered by
permitted development (PD). The majority of single-storey extensions are
also covered by PD; however, certain exclusions and criteria apply, so always
check with your local authority’s planning department before starting work.
Even if you don’t need planning permission, it may be worth applying to your
local planning authority for a lawful development certificate, which proves that
EXTENSIONS 133
 the work is lawful, and can be useful when you come to
sell. If you are planning structural changes, make sure
you use the services of a structural engineer. Find one in
your area by searching at www.istructe.org.
5
Find the right team
Once you’ve had your plans drawn up and
permissions granted, you’ll need to find
tradespeople you trust to carry out any structural work
and install your kitchen. This could include a builder,
joiner, plumber, electrician and decorator. For each
of the different trades, you should get at least three
detailed written quotes. Recommendations are always
the best way to find people to work with, so ask friends
and family before searching online. Bear in mind
that the cheapest quote may not be the best if it does
not meet all your requirements, and you need to feel
comfortable with the people you choose to work with.
Some kitchen companies offer a complete design, build
and installation package, meaning you won’t need to
find individual tradespeople, although this is often more
expensive. If you choose this option, again always get
Kitchens don’t have
to be huge to be easy
to work with — good
layout and a central
workspace can make a
big difference, as can
clever shelving and
stylish tiling
Photography: Malcolm Menzies
134 EXTENSIONS
quotes from at least three different kitchen companies. Even if you’ve fallen
in love with a kitchen offered by one specific company, chances are others
will offer something very similar.
6
Finalise the details
Once work starts, making changes can be costly. Agree on all of the
final details, including the handles, appliances and other details,
and stick to them. It’s especially important to confirm the location of
appliances, lighting and sockets, making sure sockets are in places that will
be convenient, such as by the fridge and kettle. You should also consider
where to put charging points and whether you’d like USB sockets. And think
carefully about extraction. Will you have a traditional overhead extractor, or
could you install a downdraft model, which slots into your kitchen worktop
and can pop up at the touch of a button? When it comes to artificial lighting,
make sure you include a combination of task, ambient and accent lighting.
By finalising the details and ordering materials now, you’ll help the project
run smoothly.
7
Start the building work
Now you have the team you want to work with and quotes agreed, it’s
time for construction work to start. If you’re having walls demolished
or an extension built, you may want to consider moving out while the work
 is complete. Alternatively, you could set up a makeshift
kitchen – perhaps using your old cooker, sink and couple
of units – in a different room. If you decide to stay, be
prepared for dust, noise and disruption. If you decide
to move out, make sure you visit the site regularly and
are available to answer questions. While knocking down
internal walls and stripping out an old kitchen should
take a few weeks, building an extension is likely to take
three months or more. During this time, walls, floors and
ceilings will be constructed, cables inserted for electrics
and pipes for water.
8 10
Decoration
Once the walls plastered, you should be able
to get a feel for how your new kitchen will look when
it’s finished. Now is the time to decorate the walls and
ceiling. By painting before the units are installed, you’ll
minimise the risk of drips and spills ruining your new
kitchen. Opt for a wall colour that either complements or
contrasts with your units. Although a plain white kitchen
is timeless as it can easily be updated with accessories,
Photography: Getty Images/In4mal
consider going for a bolder wall colour, such as dark grey or petrol blue, for
more of a style statement.
9
Installing a kitchen
Now it’s time for the most exciting part of the project — the
installation. Many kitchen companies offer an installation service for
around £2,000, although most units can be fitted by a competent DIYer if
you’re looking to cut costs. If you choose this option, your extractor and
cooker will need to be installed by an accredited electrician, and you may
need a plumber to fit your sink and water-based appliances. Due to the cost
of most worktops, it’s always best to ask a professional to fit these for you.
Tiling and flooring
You could tile, add a splashback to your walls or install your
chosen flooring before fitting your units, but you’ll be paying for
extra materials that won’t be seen once the kitchen is in place, so
it makes sense to complete these tasks afterwards, instead. Most competent
DIYers will be able to tile or fit flooring themselves – simply follow one of
the many step-by-step guides on YouTube, or the Wickes and B&Q websites.
Once the walls and floors are complete, it’s time to introduce the furniture,
accessories and lighting, and start enjoying your brand-new kitchen.
EXTENSIONS 135
 AD V ERTORIA L

Choosing
windows
and doors
How to turn your dream home
into a reality with Rationel

W
indows and doors make a huge difference to the
internal and external appearance of a property
and the size, positioning, style and quality of HOW RATIONEL CAN HELP YOU
materials used play a crucial part in the overall look and feel Rationel was founded in 1954 in Denmark to focus
of a home.  on strong workmanship and innovation for modern
In fact, windows and doors are often symbolically window production. Since its conception, Rationel has
recognised as an opening to a new beginning, or a gateway paved the way for made-to-measure window and door
to information. It was once said by Thomas Phaer that “the products, putting customers first and producing special,
eyes are the windows of the soul” and “if opportunity doesn’t unique design features. Our products are known for
knock, build a door” by Milton Berle. their quality and solid craftsmanship — that’s what we’ve
always been about. For over 60 years we’ve been at the
DESIGNING FOR MODERN LIVING forefront of modern window and door design, bringing
At Rationel we believe windows and doors should reflect a energy efficiency and sustainability together in beautiful
householders signature style, and act as an inviting entrance Scandinavian products that are just undeniably made well.
to their sanctuary. We’ve always had a vision. Since the beginning, we’ve
Gone are the days of ‘one-size-fits-all’ PVCu windows and been as passionate about creating a feeling
doors. Today they can be made-to-measure and designed as we are about our products themselves.
into a range of different shapes and sizes to suit property We dreamed of inspiring warmth and togetherness,
features and manufactured in a variety of colours to of bringing a sense of tranquility and safety to an indoor
complement a property’s surroundings and location.  environment and for people to step back and enjoy that. 
They can offer performance benefits such as reduced Our vision today? It’s the same as it ever was. We want
heat loss and noise pollution, enhanced safety, and modern our windows and doors to truly change the way people live,
products can offer householders a greater return on and help everyone achieve their own space of calm right
investment as timber and aluminum-clad variations last up there in their own home. 
to 80 years.   For more information visit www.rationel.co.uk.

EXTENSIONS 137
UNDERFLOOR
HEATING
Building a new space allows
you the luxury of choosing
underfloor heating — but
bear in mind some practical
issues before you start
Underfloor heating, as anyone who has lived with it will
tell you, is a form of heating that is barely noticeable
but always there, providing not just warm toes but
also a comfortable background heat level. Owing to its
traditional requirements for the pipes to be buried in a
deep screed, it hasn’t really been a practical option for
those looking to work with existing houses — at least
until now.
People extending their own home, of course, are
building a new floor structure and can therefore bury
the flexible pipes into the screed. This is typically done
by laying a clip track on top of a rigid insulation board
(the diameter of pipes are usually around 14mm), on
top of which the screed is poured. The insulation board
stops the heat from sinking down, and the screed warms
up. This traditional method of underfloor heating
will warm up the screed on a relatively low response
time (usually a couple of hours) and then provide
background heat for a long period.
There are many benefits to this type of underfloor
heating. The slow build up might not suit those who
demand heat in an instant for short bursts, but for those
living in their home during the day, it creates a general
warm climate rather than suffering the hot/cold cycle
so common with basic heating systems. Also, because
underfloor heating replaces the need for radiators,
furniture layouts are much more flexible as the walls
are freed up. Best of all, the energy efficiency benefits
of underfloor heating are significant: because the floor
acts as a giant radiator, the water running through the
pipes only needs to be heated to 35-40˚C (as opposed to
around 70˚C for radiator systems).
Of course, the problem lies in that those working
with existing homes are stuck with not wanting to
dig out the existing floor structure to build a new one
with pipes in. There are two solutions in this instance.
Firstly, you could install a new electric system, where
cables are affixed into an ultra-thin matting that sits
directly below tiles. It’s an effective system, but can be
quite expensive to run constantly (and particularly over
larger floor areas). The second solution is to look at one
of the biggest innovations in heating in recent years,
namely the overlay panels into which is embedded a
much thinner plastic pipe channelling the hot water
around your home. The pre-channelled panels have an
insulative layer on the bottom and the good news is that
they add between 20-30mm to your floor levels. This
is noticeable, but manageable in terms of thresholds,
skirtings and so on.
EXTENSIONS 139
 ROOF DESIGN
The pitch and style of your roof plays a
huge role in your extension’s appearance,
with a range of options available
The roof of your extension might not be the most exciting thing in the world
to you, but the decision you make will have a significant bearing on not just
its overall look from the outside but also the space you enjoy internally — as
well as the light.
Single storey extension roof design is often problematic owing to the
restrictions placed on its height by the position of the windows above. As a
result, many homeowners opt for shallow pitched roofs, but there are other
options — including flat roofs.
Flat roofs have long since shed their reputation for leaky felt coverings
and are now the go-to choice for those looking for a contemporary-styled
extension. A flat roof helps to free up internal space and is often cheaper
than pitched roof options, as it requires fewer materials to cover the same
roof span. There is also the scope to incorporate a green roof onto the flat
structure.
What pitch is a flat roof?
If flat roofs are to work well, they have to have a slope, known as a fall, to
shed rainwater. The fall should never be less than 1:80 and preferably about
1:40. There are several methods of building in a fall:
❯ One is to set the cross walls at different heights. Most people shy away from
this because they don’t like the idea of having an internal ceiling that slopes
❯ A far more common method is to use ‘firring strips’, which are battens cut
at an angle and placed on top of the roof joists
❯ Another possibility is to cut a fall into the roof insulation, something
several businesses now offer — it’s often referred to as tapered insulation
Choosing a flat roof design
There are many advantages to using a flat roof:
❯ Frees up internal space
❯ Freedom to plan interesting shapes beneath a flat roof without having to
worry about the way the roof is held up
❯ Immeasurable flexibility
❯ They help to keep the internal temperature stable
❯ With flat roofs you get none of the impression of bulk that you get with a
pitched roof, but the internal area is not compromised to achieve this
❯ Cheaper to construct than pitched roofs and less material is needed to
cover the same span
Flat roof coverings
Photography: Katie Lee
Over the years many products have been used and none has emerged clearly
as the best. In practice most people plump for the system their installer or
designer likes the most. Generally speaking, the issues to watch are the cost
and the guarantee offered. As a rule, don’t go for anything less than 20 years.
Costs vary from around £35/m2 up to £80/m2.
140 EXTENSIONS
❯ TORCH-ON FELT Applied hot in two or three
layers, it remains potentially the cheapest covering
but there are several different grades you can specify.
The best felt systems are now comparable with any of
the alternatives but cost just as much. Although it’s a
cheaper product, it is built up in layers and this gives a
more robust finish, more suitable for light foot traffic.
And the fact that it is applied hot makes it easier to form
around penetrations and corners.
❯ MASTIC ASPHALT Potentially the longest lasting,
it is now usually used under roof terraces that will
be walked over, so habitually it is laid as a base layer
beneath paving slabs.
❯ EPDM RUBBERISED ROOFING Widely used
and easy to install, it comes on cut-to-measure rolls
with its own flashing systems. It is usually bonded to
the substrate with adhesive and, done well, should last
at least 30 years. Firestone, the tyre manufacturer, is the
number one supplier.
❯ SINGLE PLY MEMBRANES These use a variety
of materials, of which PVC is the most common, but
others are available. Look out for PIB, TPE and TPO.
The latter is preferred by people wishing to avoid PVC
on environmental grounds and consequently popular in
Germany. They are usually fitted by approved installers
and, more often than not, customers work with the
system their installer recommends. Generally these are
a little more expensive than EPDM, but with longer
guarantees. Sarnafil remains the best known PVC brand;
look at Bauder for alternatives.
❯ LIQUID ROOFS Occasionally, complex roof
shapes require something a little different and paint-on
solutions can be used effectively where other methods
struggle. Products like Kemperol have a well-deserved
niche, known for their reliability and capacity to
overhaul and repair failing roofs. However, on new
roofs they are expensive. Fibreglass roofs can also be laid
wet and built up with matting.
Beyond flat roofs:
❯ GREEN ROOFS The fashion for extensive green
roofs growing sedums, grasses and mosses shows no
sign of abating and, done well, they make truly splendid
and eco-friendly features.
However, there is a lot more to them than a ‘normal’
flat roof. They require a root barrier to stop the plants
interacting with the waterproofing beneath, and a flat roof
in particular requires a drainage layer to retain water.
Coupled with some edging features to stop the
vegetation leaking away, this makes a green roof build-
up quite expensive. They also add to the weight of a
roof, and may well require the underlying structure to
be beefed up. Another function of green roofs is to hang
onto rainwater and reduce the amount of run-off.
Flat roofs are clever
solutions for single
storey extensions
— as in this case,
they avoid issues of
designing around first
floor windows
 EXTERIOR
Run through the options
 BRICK The go-to choice for most builders, brick
is enjoying a reinvention as a contemporary building
material, used in new bonds with different formats (such

FINISHES as Romans) being embraced.

PROS:
❯ maintenance-free
Your extension isn’t just for enjoying ❯ easy to source
❯ good choice of different styles and costs (from 50p to
from the inside — it should look over £1.50/brick)
great from the garden, too CONS:
❯ high cost of bricklayers
❯ contributes to thick walls
The way your new extension looks from the outside is just as important ❯ requires foundations to be wider
as the space and light you create inside. While you’ll be seeing more of the ❯ can be held up by weather
internal finishes than the exterior ones, a well-specified, well-designed and
well-built extension will not only add more value but give you more pleasure ❯ RENDER The obvious choice for those looking for
than one built without beauty. a thin, effective finish to their wall, silicon-based render
When it comes to the finish of the extension externally, it is important to systems are now a commonplace way of solving the
understand in the first instance that the external wall of the extension is not traditional problems of sand/cement renders
the same as the internal supporting structure. This means, for instance, that
a home can have blockwork structural walls but be finished in, say, timber or PROS:
stone, as well as brick. The brick is not a structural element — it’s cladding in ❯ minimal effect on wall thickness
the same way as everything else. So the choice is wide, and important. ❯ wide colour choice available
❯ fast to apply
Making a choice CONS:
There are two main issues to consider with cladding for extension projects. ❯ silicon-based systems can be expensive
Firstly, particularly on tight sites, space is at a real premium. So it makes ❯ maintenance issues on traditional systems
sense to minimise the wall thickness of the extension itself, assuming
you want to maximise the internal useable floor area. In order to achieve ❯ TIMBER CLADDING Timber is enjoying a
modern Building Regulations standards for energy efficiency, this can result renaissance as a cladding material and is popular with
in significant wall thicknesses — a standard internal block/external brick those looking for a natural finish to their extension.
cavity wall structure may well need to get towards 400mm, depending on
the type of insulation and internal finish (e.g. plasterboard) in order to PROS:
perform well enough in terms of heat loss. ❯ fast to install
Hence the tendency for builders of extensions to favour render or timber ❯ looks great
cladding as an external finish. Render can be applied on top of a 100mm ❯ thin build-up
insulation layer on the outside of a 200mm thick structural blockwork CONS:
wall, which can shave precious tens of mm off the thickness. Even better, a ❯ issue around whether to treat or not
timber frame or Structural Insulated Panel (SIPs) internal structure, where ❯ can be expensive
the insulation is integral to the build-up rather than additional, can result
in total wall thicknesses in the 200-300mm range. The important thing is to Alternatives
understand the implications that your choice will have. Stone is sometimes used on larger extension projects
Secondly, think about longevity. All of the options look brilliant in the first and, particularly with a one-third mortar application
week after installation, and even the first year, but will it look as good after to give the appearance of a dry stone wall, can look
five years? This is clearly where brick and stone win as choices, but modern amazing on both traditional and contemporary projects.
silicon-based render systems, through-coloured, require no maintenance It is, however, incredibly expensive.
and don’t suffer from either the cracks or the occasional mould/algae For those looking for a light cladding, fibre cement
patches associated with traditional sand/cement renders, particularly those boards are a smart way to replicate the look of timber
applied on elevations that don’t dry very well (north-facing). Those choosing without the maintenance issues. Finally, the more
timber cladding will either have to commit to a maintenance cycle or allow industrial/commercial style metal and composite
the timber to fade to silvery-grey, which is fine — but ideally done with a cladding systems provide instant cool appeal and are
transparent protection against splitting or warping. well worth a look.

EXTENSIONS 143
 EXTERNAL
SPACES
Your new extension should
help the original house interact
much better with the garden
— so getting the exterior space
right is critical
Photography: Getty Images/Astronaut Images
Inside/out living is a
key priority for many
home extenders,
but needs careful
planning, from the
choice of flooring to
thinking about the
position of the sun
Clearly the primary reason to extend your home is to create the space you
need, but there are other benefits, too — not least that a good designer will
ensure your new space connects your home with the garden. Older homes
tend to have a very formal separation, perhaps with a small set of French
doors or just a simple back door, so modern extensions often blur the
boundaries between inside and out.
Before you start dreaming too quickly of the barbeques and garden
parties to come, it’s important to give some thought to the design of that
interaction, and equally important to consider the options for creating a
great patio.
Protection from the elements
Dreams of al fresco dining and lazy Sundays are often based on an image
of life in the UK that isn’t always the reality. The key to maximising the use
of the outdoor space is to protect it where possible from the elements (i.e.
not just relying on a patio heater). The good news is that you can do this
through your extension design. One smart solution might be to extend the
flat roof for a couple of metres over the rear wall of the extension, allowing
you to have your patio doors open even if it’s raining. This covered space can
then become a place for storing the BBQ and even form a nice all-weather
seating area.
Level thresholds
If you’re really keen to blur those boundaries between inside and out, a great
way to do it is to design out that step down as you enter the garden and
instead create a level threshold between inside and out. It’s easier said than
done. Modern extensions tend to have sliding door systems that can struggle
with weathertightness. Get it wrong and you’ll get water finding its way in.
The key is to ensure you build a proprietary drainage channel and have the
patio not only slightly lower (2-5mm) than the internal floor level but also
gently sloping away. Many building inspectors struggle with it, and often the
overhang (as described above) is a good way to assuage any doubts about
rain getting in. If you want a level threshold make sure you plan early with
your builder and sliding door supplier.
The easy bit in many ways is choosing the floor finish — in some cases
the same tile can be used inside and out, and as an alternative many tile
suppliers offer exterior non-slip versions of the same interior-grade tile.
Patio flooring
The design of the patio itself is beyond the scope of a book on extensions,
but it’s important to consider some key issues to make sure your new outside
space lives up to expectations. Firstly, think about the flooring choice, which
for most is a choice between decking or tiles/flags. Decking is a popular
choice and a relatively straightforward DIY install. What makes it a much
more practical solution in recent years are the new composite boards that
solve the problems many deck owners might recognise all too well: namely
regular maintenance cycles, growth of algae and, in winter, hair-raising slips
across an icy surface.
For most patio builders, however, it’s more a choice of which tile — and
the options are greater than ever before. From the paving slabs that make
up much of the offering at our larger DIY sheds to desirable limestone and
Yorkstone, there is pretty much endless choice in terms of colour and style.
One thing to consider is the new emerging trend for porcelain tiles, which
offer a seamless modern look, tight joint lines and exceptional durability.
EXTENSIONS 145
 If you’re thinking of extending your own home, this book is for you. We’ve
spent decades writing about home extension projects at Homebuilding &
Renovating and this Ultimate Guide to Extending Your Own Home is the first
time we have gathered all of our wisdom into one place.

This guide is split into several key sections to follow the process and
answer the questions that most homeowners face. Is an extension necessary
and worthwhile? Are there other options? Where can I extend, and how
much will it cost? Once I’ve decided to extend, what next? Who should I
speak to? How will the project be managed?

Picking up this book gives you a unique opportunity to become a skilled-

up home extender — and given the potential for your home extension to
change your life, it is a small price to pay to help you navigate this often
scary and confusing once-in-a-lifetime experience.
9021
9000

148 EXTENSIONS