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DiYK-GCC2.0
kit
assembly instructions

To please follow the below recommended sequence of assembly.

This will ensure the hassle-free process and alow to avoid
mistakes.
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step 1 cut the straight male header with a utility knife into: 2pcs of
6pin, 2pcs of 3pin and 3pcs of 2pin headers.

step 2 install the the micro switch on the bottom side of the PCB
(the bottom side is the side where all the SMD components are
assembled). Solder the switch from the opposite (top) side.
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step 3 install the the six pin angle header on the bottom side of the
PCB (the bottom side is the side where all the SMD components
are assembled). Solder the header from the opposite (top) side.

step 4 Bend the pins of the multiturn potentiometer and install it on

the bottom side of the PCB as shown in the picture above.
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step 5 install two terminal bloks, three pcs of 2pin headers and two
pcs of 3pin headers on the bottom side of the PCB as shown in the
above picture. Place a carboard or similar stiff flat object on top to
hold components in place.Flip the assembly so you can solder
components` pins on the other (top) side of the PCB.
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step 6 install two pcs of 6pin headers on the top side of the PCB
(insert long pins into holes) as shown in the above picture. Solder
them from the opposite (bottom) side of the PCB.
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detection LED

Alarm trheshold LED

step 7 install yellow and red LEDs on the top side of the PCB as
shown in the above picture. LED cathodes (-) which are the shorter
pins go to the square pad-holes. The detection LED is yellow and
gis installed closer to the PCB edge while the Alarm threshold LED
is red and is positioned closer to the center of the PCB. Solder LED
pins from the opposite (bottom) side of the PCB.
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“tone-zero” button “mode” button

step 8 install two angled push buttons on the top side of the PCB
as shown in the above picture. Solder pins and frame from the
opposite (bottom) side of the PCB.
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step 9 install the display on the top side of the PCB on two 6pin
male headers as shown in the above pictures. Solder the display on
to these 6pin headers.

step 10 install two 10K trimmers on the top side of the PCB. They
shall touch the dislplay PCB and click in when pressed (this is fine)
Solder pins from the opposite (bottom) side of the PCB. Solder
central pins of trimmers first for easier access.
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step 11 Form the pins of the iR receiver as shown in three first

pictures. Install the iR receiver on the top side of the PCB. Solder
pins from the opposite (bottom) side of the PCB.
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“tone” mode

“click” mode

step 12 Install the buzzer on the top side of the PCB. Please check
the “+” sign on buzzer bottom (sing on the black plastic enclosure
might not match!). “+” pin should go to the round pad-hole (which is
closer to the edge of the PCB. Solder pins from the opposite
(bottom) side of the PCB. Set the micro-switch to “click” mode.
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step 13 Connect the 9V battery Clip as shown in the above picture.

Positive wire goes to the contact closer to the corner of the PCB.
note: the two pin header is directly connected to battery contacts
and can be used for extension boards.
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step 14 Power the device and adjust the contrast of the LCD.
Two extremes are either no readings or two lines of black blocks.
The correct setting is betwen these two extremes.
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step 15 Adjust the desired maximum brightness of the LCD

backlight. Please note that at low brightness there is approximately
20mA savings of the battery power while in complete darkness the
display will remain visible. Therefore if it is practical to have the
maximum brightness of the LCD backlight reduced as to low.
However LCD backlight is switchable off by double-click on the
“mode” push button (the one close to the yellow LED) therefore you
can still decide to leave the LCD maximum backlight bright and use
it only when absolutely necessary.

step 16 Connect the Geiger-Müller tube. Anode (“+”) of the tube

should be connected to the contact closer to the cornere of the PCB
as shown in the above picture. In case you u use multi-anode tube
(the one like SBT-11 or SBT-10 etc.) you might want to short the
5M1 resistor (the one close to the contact block and marked 515)
with a peace of wire and install current limiting resistors instead for
every anode of the tube. Then connect other ends of these resistors
to the anode contact of the terminal block. Just make sure that
there is a current limiting resistor installed for the tube.
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step 17 In case you want to connect the device to the PC either for
reflashing/update of firmware or logging (http://arduino-geiger-
pcb.blogspot.com/2014/08/how-to-prepare-for-using-radiation.html)
please refer to above pictures for connecting the TTLSerial-to-USB
adapter. On the right-hand picture here is a pinout of the JTag
connector in case you need access to corresponding pins of the
micro-controller.
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-
SCL SDA

supplemental information i2C connector

If you want to hack the firmware sketch and use the i2C interface
above is the pinout of the corresponding header.

+5V regulated
power

supplemental information bypassing the step-down regulator

The main working voltage of the board is in the range of 4.5 to 5V.
Therefore if there is a need to power the device from a 5V regulated
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power supply or batteries and bypass the installed regulator there

are padds which can be used for bypassing

supplemental information more information can be found:

https://github.com/impexeris/DiY-Arduino-Geiger-Counter-SMD
(GitHub related to this device)

http://arduino-geiger-pcb.blogspot.com
(Blog of various related posts)

http://www.ebay.com/sch/impexeris/m.html?
_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=
(shop address on eBay)

arduino_geiger_pcb@yahoo.com
(direct e-mail for enquiries)