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BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology


Dept. of AMM
Course Title: Pattern Grading & CAD Lab I I (Gerber)
Course Code: AMM4102
Assignment On: Pattern Grading & Marker Making

Submitted To :
Md Moniruzzaman (Rasel)
Dept. of FDT, BGMEA University of Fashion &
Technology.

Submitted By :
Shakif Shahriar (ID 182-120-111)
(Section-182,1 A)

Date of Submission : 29-01-2022


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1. Grading: So, before making a grading first we have to entire a sample with the right
measurement (front, back, sleeve part). Also, all components ought to be mirror pieces so
that drafting seems like the entire pattern of the Garment. It is easy to do drafting with seam
allowance hidden.
To begin with, earlier than doing a grading we need to do two precise things.
Assign rule table from
● File ➤ Assign Rule Table ➤ Left Click on the pattern piece (Pattern pis will be Red
color)

➤ Right Click ➤ Ok ➤ Device: C/G (Selected Folder), Path: 182-120-111/MMN


(Selected Folder) ➤ Select Size Chart ➤ Ok ➤ Right Click ➤ Ok

Add Grade Point (Pattern pieces of all corners have to be selected)


● Grade ➤ Add Grade Point ➤ Track every point & select individually after finishing
Triangle Box will be turned in Diamond Shape
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NB: If any unexpected points are created then we should delete them in any other case our
grading may not be precise sufficient. We have to observe the coordinates to do the best
grading. In addition, grading values have to be spread equally on each side. We've to follow the
spec sheet.

Back Part:
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Chest
● Grade ➤ Edit Delta ➤ Track Point to the chest (Point will be Red color) ➤ Right
Click ➤ Ok (Edit Grade Pont - Small-Large-Incremental Box will open) ➤ Clear Y ➤
Delta Y ➤ Input value chronologically (0.50, 1.00, 1.50) ➤ Update ➤ Ok ➤ Right
Click ➤ Ok

Bottom Opening (Copy Chest measurement because both of them are the same)
● Grade ➤ Copy ➤ Copy Y Rule ➤ Drag to the point we want to copy/Chest
(Selecting the point will automatically copy all measurement) ➤ Then Drag the point
we want to paste/Bottom hem ➤ Right Click ➤ Ok
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Shoulder
● Grade ➤ Edit Delta ➤ Track point to the shoulder tip ➤ Right Click ➤ Ok ➤
Clear Y ➤ Delta Y ➤ Input value chronologically (0.75, 1.00, 1.00) ➤ Update ➤ Ok
➤ Right Click ➤ Ok

Neck Width
● Grade ➤ Edit Delta ➤ Track point to the neck ➤ Right Click ➤ Ok ➤ Clear Y ➤
Delta Y ➤ Input value chronologically (0.25, 0.25, 0.25) ➤ Update ➤ Ok ➤ Right
Click ➤ Ok
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NB: According to rules we've to put positive values on the upper aspect and negative on the
lower aspect.

So we can simply copy all upper aspect values and paste them to the lower aspect.

● Grade ➤ Copy ➤ Copy Y Rule ➤ Drag to the point we want to copy (Selecting the
point will automatically copy all measurement) ➤ Then Drag the point we want to
paste ➤ Right Click ➤ Ok

Grade ➤ Flip ➤ Flip Y Rule ➤ Select all lower aspects and it's going to flip
automatically
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Arm Hole
● Grade ➤ Edit Delta ➤ Track point to the shoulder tip ➤ Right Click ➤ Ok ➤
Clear X ➤ Delta X ➤ Input value chronologically (-1.00, -1.00, -1.50) ➤ Update ➤
Ok ➤ Right Click ➤ Ok

Grade ➤ Copy ➤ Copy X Rule ➤ Drag to the point we want to copy (Selecting the
point will automatically copy all measurement) ➤ Then Drag the point we want to
paste ➤ Right Click ➤ Ok (Continue this to all 4 points)
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NB: Grading changed into for total duration. While we do an armhole straight we already
increase length chronologically on the shoulder facet so when we need to increase the
length we’ve to minus that value.

Length
● Grade ➤ Edit Delta ➤ Track point to the shoulder tip ➤ Right Click ➤ Ok ➤
Clear X ➤ Delta X ➤ Input value chronologically (2.50, 3.50, 2.00) ➤ Update ➤ Ok
➤ Right Click ➤ Ok
Then,
Grade ➤ Copy ➤ Copy X Rule ➤ Drag to the point we want to copy (Selecting the
point will automatically copy all measurement) ➤ Then Drag the point we want to
paste ➤ Right Click ➤ Ok (Continue this to all 2 points)

Some things have to be done for the front part. Then place these parts Piece to menu.

Sleeve

NB: Sleeve length is broken when we do it and the point can’t be deleted because that point
is an intersection between two lines. Rather we can combine from Modify ➤ Combine
(Select the line we want to combine) ➤ Right Click ➤ Ok

Rule Table Assign and grade point have to be added.

Biceps
● Grade ➤ Edit Delta ➤ Track point to the Biceps ➤ Right Click ➤ Ok ➤ Clear Y
➤ Delta Y ➤ Input value chronologically (1.00, 1.00, 1.00) ➤ Update ➤ Ok ➤ Right
Click ➤ Ok
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Sleeve Opening
● Grade ➤ Edit Delta ➤ Track point to the Biceps ➤ Right Click ➤ Ok ➤ Clear Y
➤ Delta Y ➤ Input value chronologically (0.50, 0.50, 0.50) ➤ Update ➤ Ok ➤ Right
Click ➤ Ok

NB: Sleeve duration ¾ ought to supply in sleeve opening and ¼ ought to give in biceps.

Sleeve Length
● Grade ➤ Edit Delta ➤ Track point to the shoulder tip ➤ Right Click ➤ Ok ➤
Clear X ➤ Delta X ➤ Input value chronologically (-0.50, -0.50, -0.50) ➤ Update ➤
Ok ➤ Right Click ➤ Ok
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Grade ➤ Edit Delta ➤ Track point to the sleeve opening ➤ Right Click ➤ Ok ➤
Clear X ➤ Delta X ➤ Input value chronologically (4.00, 4.00, 4.50) ➤ Update ➤ Ok
➤ Right Click ➤ Ok
Then,
Grade ➤ Copy ➤ Copy X Rule ➤ Drag to the point we want to copy (Selecting the
point will automatically copy all measurements) ➤ Then Drag the point we want to
paste ➤ Right Click ➤ Ok

Then we can do a Mirror from Modify ➤ Mirror and the pattern piece will be complete.
Then place these parts Piece to menu.

This is how we can do Pattern Drafting.


File ➤ Save ➤ Place all tiled ➤ Select all (Drafting will be Red Colour) ➤ Right Click ➤ Ok
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2. Marker Making: First we have to generate a marker


● Gerber LaunchPad ➤ Accumark Explorer ➤ Selected Folder ➤ Right Click ➤ New
➤ Model ➤ Comment (Anything) ➤ Piece Name ➤ Left Click ➤ Left Click Little Icon
➤ Select All the grading we want to take ➤ Open

NB: Piece Name and Piece Catagory have to be similar (Copy the name with Ctrl+C and
Paste the name with Ctrl+V)

Flips ➤ 1 Back part, 1 Front part, 2 Sleeve parts (X Direction) ➤ Save ➤ Ok

● Gerber LaunchPad ➤ Accumark Explorer ➤ Selected Folder ➤ Right Click ➤ New


➤ Order ➤ Fill Up the description ➤ Lay Limit ➤ Select Lay (L) ➤ open ➤
Annotation ➤ A ➤ Open ➤ Fabric Width 134 (Suppose) ➤ Save
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Model 1 ➤ Model Name ➤ T-Shirt ➤ Open ➤ Size ➤ Right-Click ➤ Select All ➤


Ok ➤ Quantity ➤ All 1 ➤ Save ➤ Click On Marker Icon (Green ➤ Arrow)

Our Marker is completed. Now if we want to check we can open the marker from the folder.
The Green area is the Fabric length Right Click ➤ Drag All Pattern Pieces ➤ Drop on the
Green Field it automatically will generate all marker pieces.
Our Marker is completed. Now if we need to test we can open the marker from the folder.
The green area is the Fabric length. Right Click ➤ Drag All pattern pieces ➤ Drop on the
green area it automatically will generate all marker portions.

This is how we can do grading & marker making.

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