FUNDAMENTAL OF

APPAREL PRODUCTION


Prepared By:
Ms. SONIA
ATDC FARIDABAD
1 Profile of Indian Apparel Industry
· General Features
· Strengths & Weakness
· Organisational Structure
· Past & Present Trends
· Types of Apparel Producers

2 Basic Industrial Terminology

3 Structure & Status of Manpower in RMG Industry

· Need for Training
· Benefits of Training
· Man Management
· Responsibilities & Quality of a Good
Production Supervisor

4 Introduction to Basic Garment: Components & Parts

· Men’s Shirt
· Trouser
 · Skirt
· Dress
· T-Shirt
5 Seams
· Seam Classes
· Properties of Seam
· Identification of Seams

6 Stitches
· Stitch Classes
· Properties of Stitch
· Identification of Stitch

7. Raw Material in use in RMG Industry

· Closures
9 Pre-Production Planning
· Types of Samples & Sample Approval
· Types of Patterns & Pattern Checking
· Fabric & Accessory Procurement


GENERAL FEATURES

(1) EFFECT ON RELATED INDUSTRY

The growth of a garment industry affects the growth of other industry, because if there will
be any problem regarding manufacturing a product, the other industries which are
supplying the material for that product will be affected, so the growth of a industry affects
the related industry.

(2) EFFECTIVE COMMUNICATION & PROCESS CONTROL

Major problems faced by the industries are, due to lack of communication between
different departments production process hampers. So if there will be effective
communication between different process & control over the material management, there
will not be delay in shipping the right product in right time.

(3) LABOR INTENSIVE INDUSTRY

Apparel industries are mostly labor intensive industries. Where more laborers work in the
industry as compared to other professionals. Apparel industries give more emphasis to the
availability of man powers as compared to capital investment. If labor is cheap the
production cost of the product will be less.

 (4) GARMENT PRODUCTION PROCESS
The main categories of production process:
 Spreading & Cutting
 Stitching
 Finishing & packing
The sequence of operations from these three categories of production
varies from product to product type as per the requirement.

5) FUNCTIONS OF GARMENT MANUFACTURING

There are different functions for garment manufacturing.
Administration: - To organize and administer the establishment, man
power, management.
Sourcing & Purchasing: - For effective sourcing and procurement of
fabric & accessories.
Designing & pattern making: - development of new design &
drawing patterns of required size for cutting as per requirement.
Production: - Conversion of raw materials into finished product through
different production process like spreading, cutting ,stitching &finishing.
Marketing & merchandising: - To determine designs and quality
standards for a given price and other selling activities.

(6) APPAREL MANAGEMENT SYSTEM

The management functions are
Production control
Inventory control
Personal control
Production control :-It is to synchronize all the production process so as
to deliver the right product in right time.
Inventory control:-In order to produce every garment with minimal
inventory in- process quantity it is important to control over the
inventory cost.
Personnel Control: - It consists of the following activities like Recruiting
personnel, Selecting the best from those recruited, Orienting those
selected, Training facility Performance records.
(7) GARMENT ENGINEERING

Garment engineering deals with the establishment of

standard time of garment, development of better method of
doing a job.

Method study determines which is the better machine to

be used for a required process. Which is better method and
training to operators?
STRENGTH
1. MANPOWER AVAILABILITY
Since India has got cheap labor & more manpower availability, it has the
greater scope for more productivity. So target to achieve more productivity due
to more man power
2. QUANTITATIVE & QUALITATIVE PRODUCTIVITY
A large no. of trained professionals & skilled operators are working in the
garment industry. they can implement the proper technique 7methods of
working in the industry ,which can improve both quality & quantity of the
product.
3. AVAILABILITY OF RAW FIBERS
Raw fibers like cotton, silk, linen & other synthetic fibers are adequately
available which can be utilized for fabric as well as garment production
4. GROWING DOMESTIC MARKET
The domestic market in India is growing so fast , so India has got the
tremendous opportunity for readymade garment business, so there will
be more growth for domestic garment manufacturers.

5. COMPARATIVE ADVANTAGE
Since there is adequate availability of cheap labor in India, the cost of
manufacturing of the product will be low, which encourages the
manufacturer‟s to maximize the profit, hence more growth.

6. FOREIGN EXCHANGE INCOME

It has got the greater advantage to get more foreign exchange income by
exporting more qualitative products & increasing the market demand.

7. GOVT. POLICIES & SCHEMES

Govt. of India is now giving more priority for liberalization of garment
business. it is also providing a lot of schemes ,tariffs, tax benefits,
flexibility in garment trade policy for the up gradation of sick industries,
existing industries & development of new industries both in textiles &
apparel sectors.
8. TECHNICAL EDUCATION & EXPERTISE

A large no. of fashion technology institutes are running , which are serving the
garment industry by creating trained professionals,technicians,for developing
the better quality & productivity in the industry.

WEAKNESS

1. OUT DATED TECHNOLOGY

The tendency for implementing the latest technology by the manufacturers is

as slow as compared to other industries, the major problem is that the workers
hesitation, because they fear that they will be job less if there will be advance
in technology.

2. SMALL SCALE INDUSTRY

Most of the garment industries are small scale industries & un organized. since
small scale industries are widely spread through out the country, the economy
of scale is difficult to achieve.
3. LACK OF PROFESSIONALISM & TRAINED MANPOWER.
Since most of the industries are small scale industries, it becomes more cost
effective to hire more professionals & trained man power to run the industry.
4. UN AVAILABILITY OF RIGHT PRODUCT ON RIGHT TIME
a lots of problems are being faced now, it is due to improper sourcing , not
purchasing the right product, compromising quality ,lack of communication,
inadequate control over material processing which affects the delay in
shipment of the product. So buyers, they look for other industries for delivery
on right time.
5.LACK OF RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT
There is inadequate research & development in apparel sectors, there is lack
of awareness, practices for implementing the new techniques for improvement
of productivity & quality.
6. INCREASING INVENTORY COST
In Indian garment industries the cost of inventory is increasing gradually due
to delay in processing , finishing , alteration work , quality problem, lack of
communication. so the overhead & manufacturing cost increases which affects
the profitability of the product.
 An organization is a group of people working
together towards common objective is to achieve adequate
Co-operation & control over management. so it is
necessary to arrange systematic & hierarchical
organizational structure to create effective management
system.
Organization is a resource for company management.
Its purpose is to achieve the fulfillment of certain defined
work by creating a structure of work process &
responsibilities.
 Garment Manufacturing

Material Production Marketing

Garment Design
Purchasing &Merchandising

Export,Domestic,
Design, Fabrics, Cutting Sewing Finishing costing, sourcing
Pattern Making Accessories

Pattern Shade sorting,

Testing,
Spreading Cutting, Stitching Packaging, Shipment,
Pro- motion
Pressing
making,
Preparation for
Inspection sewing
Sampling
 PRESENT TRENDS
1. TECHNOLOGY UP GRADATION
The tendency for implementing the latest technology is opposed
by different trade unions encouraged by the workers society.
since garment industry is providing larger job opportunity to the
poor people . they think that up coming technology will affect
their job. they will be job less.
2. SIZE OF INDUSTRY
Most of the garment industries are small scale industries & un
organized. since small scale industries are widely spread through
out the country, the economy of scale is difficult to achieve. more
priority should be given to increase the size of the industry.
3. PROFESSIONALISM & TRAINED MANPOWER
CONTRIBUTION.
Since most of the industries are small scale industries, it becomes more cost
effective to hire more professionals & trained man power to run the industry.
so garment professionals have to contribute in the garment industry for
achieving better quality & productivity
4. PRODUCT DELIVERY
A lots of problems are being faced now, it is due to improper sourcing , not
purchasing the right product, compromising quality ,lack of communication,
inadequate control over material processing which affects the delay in
shipment of the product. So buyers, they look for other industries for delivery
on right time.
5. IMPROVEMENT IN RESEARCH & APPAREL ENGINEERING
Throe is inadequate research & development in apparel sectors, there is lack of
awareness, practices for implementing the new techniques for improvement of
productivity & quality. research organizations & institutions should give
priority towards apparel engineering for increasing better quality &
productivity.
6. MORE MANUAL WORK
In spite of development in technology ,a lot of manual work is being
done in the industry, which not only decreases the productivity but also
increases the more chance for error & wrong work.

FUTURE TRENDS
1.CHEAP LABOR & COMPARATIVE ADVANTAGE
India has got the greater opportunity to take the advantages of
cheap labor. due to cheap labor the cost of manufacturing a garment
is low, which increases the PROFITABILITY. so India will have
better competitiveness in the international markets.
2. COMPUTERIZED TECHNOLOGY UP GRADATION
Apparel industries have the chances to adopt computerized
systems & machineries to maximize the productivity to meet the
market demand, implementing advanced technology not only
increases the productivity but also the quality.
3. REMOVAL OF QUOTA REGIME
Since there is no quota system , so for Indian garment
industry there is no quantitative restrictions for export .
manufacturers can produce & export progressively.

4. FOREIGN EXCHANGE INCOME

Since India has got the availability of cheap labor, it
can utilize the huge labor resource for increasing &
exporting more product so as to income more exchange.

5. JOB OPPORTUNITY
since apparel industries are labor intensive industries ,
it can meet & solve the un employment problems. Apparel
industry creates job opportunity for poor , rural people &
professionals ,so per capita income will increase.
6.EXPORT PROMOTION POLICIES & SCHEMES
Govt. is implementing promotion policies, providing
schemes & tariffs for developing new industries &
up gradation of existing industries.
Manufacturers: - Manufacturers purchase raw materials,
design & produce styles from the raw materials on their own
premises, and then send the styles to whole sellers or
retailers.
Jobbers: - Jobbers send the materials to a contractor to be
made into finished styles, the contractor sends the finished
garments to the jobber .a contractor does not own true title
to raw materials or the finished garments.
Contractors :- A contractor converts fabric into finished
garments some times packing is done by the jobber or
manufacturer
Sub-contractor:- A sub contractor is one who does only
certain processing on a garment such as embroidery & other
decorative works etc.

Manufacturer distributors: - They send their finished

products directly to the consumers through their own retail
outlets.

Vertical manufacturers: - Make the fabric on his own

premises as well as designs, cut sew, press and package the
garments in his own premises.

Vertical manufacturer distributors: - Make the fabric in

addition to making the garments in his own premises and
then sell the garments directly to the consumers through
their own retail outlets.
1. collect the data about different types of
garment & allied industries in your locality.

2. collect the information about the future

prospectus for Indian apparel industries.

3. submit a report about the problems facing

by Indian apparel industries.
 (American Association of Textile Chemists and
AATCC Colourists) Worldwide association of professionals
active in textile wet processing.
The level of (desired) fraying or worn areas on a
garment caused by stones, abrading the garment
Abrasion Level
during wash and usually heaviest at the thickest
seams (pockets, hem, fly).
The degree to which a fabric can withstand surface
Abrasion
rubbing, chafing and other forms of friction through
Resistance
normal wear and maintenance.
(AQL) The maximum per cent defective (or
maximum number of defects per hundred units)
Acceptable
that, for purpose of sampling inspection, can be
Quality Level
considered satisfactory as a process average. MIL-
STD-105E, ISO 2859-1 (1999).
 A group of stitches used to reinforce specific areas
Bar Tack on a garment, such as at the bottom of a fly
opening or on either end of a pocket opening.
A contract of carriage between shipper and carrier.
It serves three purposes:
1. To set the terms and conditions of the contract.
Bill of Lading 2. To serve as the receipt for the goods to be
transported.
3. As documentary evidence of the party entitled
to deliver.
Freight invoice payment term unique to Airborne
Bill Receiver
Express; charges are billed to the recipients.

A hand or machine operation where the hem is

Blind Hem turned up and secured with stitches that are nearly
invisible from the right side of the garment.
 Textiles that have a secondary layer of material, often a
non-woven structure applied or fused on the face or
Bonded or back to alter the hand and/or functionality of the primary
Laminated fabric, such as: polyurethane (water resistance), foam
(bulk and insulation), woven or knit fabrics (stabilizing),
etc.
A fabric condition resulting when knitted courses are
displaced from a line perpendicular to the selvages and
Bow form one or more arcs (waviness) across the width of the
fabric. Similar conditions can occur in woven fabrics and
are results of improper finishing.

(Cost and Freight… port of destination) The seller pays

the costs and freight of the goods to the port of
destination, with the risk of loss of or damage to the
goods, as well as additional costs occurring after the
C&F
time the goods are delivered on board the vessel.
Responsibility is transferred from the seller to the buyer
when the goods pass the ship’s rail in the port of
shipment. The seller usually chooses the forwarder.
 (Cost and Insurance… port of destination) Shipping term
included in a Contract of Sale where the seller agrees to
arrange and pay for transportation and cargo insurance
C&I over the goods to the named destination. Such costs are
included in the price of the goods. The buyer is
responsible for the cost of the ocean freight and
arranging the transportation from the port of discharge.

The Cancel Date on the Purchase Order (PO). The last

Cancel Date accepted day to ship. Commonly referred to as the Past
Cancel Date.
A series of directions describing which care practices
should refurbish a product without adverse effects, and
Care Instructions warning of those care practices expected to have a
harmful effect. Covers washing, drying, pressing and
dry-cleaning.

Claims written against a carrier for recoupment of

Cargo Claims merchandise cost and freight charges as a result of
damage or shortage of goods delivered or non-delivery.
 A contract carrier is liable for all loss, damage and delay
with the exception of Act of God, Act of Public Enemy,
Carrier Liability
Act of Public Authority, Act of the Shipper and the
inherent nature of the goods.
A corrugated packaging type not usually to exceed 36” x
Carton
24” x 24” or 50 lbs.
(Cubic Meter) International measurement (metric) used in
CBM
freight and warehousing.
(CO) A document that certifies a specific country as the
Certificate of Origin origin of specific goods. The U.S. and certain other
countries require this certificate for tariff purposes.

(Cost, Insurance and Freight…port of destination) The

seller has the same obligations as under C&F, but must
also pay for marine insurance against loss or damage to
CIF the goods during transport. The seller pays for the
insurance but only is required to obtain minimum
coverage. Again, the seller usually chooses the freight
forwarder. Delivery is made at the port of destination.
 Machine knitting with a circular knitting bed. Each stitch is
controlled by a separate knitting needle or sets of needles (called
cylinders and dials). The knitted “fabric” comes out of the
machine as a knitted tube that can be cut open and finished flat
Circular or left in tubular form. Circular knitting machines are very
Knitting productive and can be set up fairly quickly. Many circular
machines now interface with computers and can knit elaborate
jacquard or fancy stitch patterns. Circular machines cannot
fashion individual panels to size or shape or create true “cable”
effects. Circular knits are usually cut-and-sewn.

A deduction processed against a vendor’s account for

aim merchandise returns, shortages, cost differences, markdowns,
advertising co-op, rebates, etc.
(Cut, Make and Trim) A preliminary cost factor where a contractor
provides services for cutting out the fabric and other components,
CMT
assembling the parts and finishing the garment, including
pressing, trimmings and labels.
CO See: Certificate of Origin
 Freight invoice payment terms; charges are billed to the
Collect
recipient.
A customer’s approval or rejection of lab dips or print
strike-offs along with necessary comments for
Color
correction. These specific comments usually indicate
Approval
errors in hue, value (lightness/darkness) and chroma
(saturation/intensity).

An undesirable change of color, whether in lightness,

Color hue, or chroma, or any combination of these, and
Change discernible by comparing the test specimen with a
corresponding untested specimen.

Color All indicate distinct color combinations for a textile

Combo, design or pattern, whether stripes, plaids, prints or
Colorway, multicolor jacquards. To “pitch colors” means to devise
Color various new color combinations for a design based on
Pitch the original color combination in the swatch or artwork.
 A material’s resistance to change in any of its color
characteristics, to transfer its colorant(s) to adjacent
Colorfastness materials, or both, as a result of exposure to any
environment that might be encountered during the
processing, testing, storage, or use of the material.

Colorfastness to The resistance of a material to a change in its color

Light (Light characteristics as a result of exposure to sunlight or an
Fastness) artificial light source.

A document that generally contains the name and address

Commercial of the seller and buyer, date of the sale, a description of
Invoice the goods, quantity, unit price, terms of sale, amount due
under the Letter of Credit and type of currency.

A process by which textile products or specimens may be

washed, rinsed, bleached, dried, and pressed in
Commercial
commercial laundering equipment, typically at higher
Laundering
temperatures, higher PHs and longer times than used for
home laundering.
 The receiver of a freight shipment, usually the
Consignee
purchaser or buyer.

The exporter that delivers the merchandise; also

Consignor
referred to as the shipper on a Bill of Lading.

A requirement by the recipient that all purchase

orders going to the same DC (Distribution Center) on
Consolidation
the same day must be consolidated onto one Bill of
of Shipment
Lading or sub-bill, depending on which carrier is
being used.

Assembles the interlinear or LTL (Less than

Truckload) shipments, organizes the freight by DC
and purchase order, manifests shipments by DC and
Consolidator
transmits to each DC to pre-alert them of the
merchandise and delivery date. Releases freight by
assembly to the DC.
 Proof of (POD) Proof that shipment was received with
Delivery signature.

Prototype The initial sample produced for a given design. This

can be made in muslin or an available fabric and trims
(Proto) for product development and assessment.

A small hole in a pattern piece that will be transferred

to the fabric indicating placement of a special sewing
Punch (Mark)
detail within the panel of fabric, such as: the apex of a
dart, set-on or cut-in pocket placement, pleats, etc.

(PO) A legal, binding contract between a buyer and a

Purchase Order
supplier.
The ability to replenish merchandise by sending sales
Quick information to a vendor and having the merchandise
Response replenished immediately, using Electronic Data
Interchange or a similar program.
NEED FOR TRAINING
The need for formal training has increased due to rapid
technological change which makes the method and techniques of
production obsolete. New skill of aptitude is required to operate
effectively. New employees must be trained for handling new job
Easily. New skills and aptitude are required to operate effectively.
Training provides job security and opportunity for advancement
to the employee. Money spent for training is an asset for both the
enterprise and employee.
In fact in modern business , “ no organization can choose whether
or not to train employee, the only choice left to management is
whether training shall be hazard, casual and possible misdirected
or whether it shall be made a careful planned part of an integrated
program of personal administration.
TYPES OF TRAINING: -
Orientation training , Job training
Safety training, Promotion training
Refresher training
ORIENTATION TRAINING: -
Introduction or orientation training seeks to adjust newly appointed
employees to the work environment. Every employee need to be
made fully familiar with his job and his supervisor and subordinate
with the rules and regulation of the organization. Introduction of
training creates self-confidence in the employee. It is also known as
pre job training.
JOB TRAINING: -
It refers to the training provides with a view to increase the
knowledge and skill of an employee for a particular job. Employee
may be taught in the techniques and machines used in a job, such
training helps to reduce waste and inefficiency in the performance of
the job.
SAFETY TRAINING: -
Training is provided to minimize accidents and damage to
machinery is known as
Safety training. It involves instruction in the use of safety device
in safely consciousness.

PROMOTION TRAINING: -
It involves training of existing employee to enable them to
perform higher level jobs. Employee with potential are selected
and they are given training before their promotion.

REFRESHER TRAINING: -
When existing technique becomes obsolete due to the
development of better technique, employees have to be trained in
the use of new method and technique. Such training is designed
to refresh the knowledge and to update the skill of the
employees.
 BENEFITS OF TRAINING

The main advantages of training: -

HIGHER PERFORMANCE: -
Training helps to improve the quantity and quality of work output.
Training increases the knowledge and skills of employees in the
performance of particular jobs. As a result the productivity and
performance of the organization as a whole increases.

LESSS LEARNING PERIOD: -

A systematic training program helps to reduce the time and cost
required to reach the acceptable level of performance.

UNIFORMITY OF PROCEDURE: -
In formal training the best methods of performing the work can be
standardized and taught to all employee .standardization of work
procedure and practices helps to improve the quality of
performance.
MANPOWER DEVELOPMENT: -

Training enables the organization to fulfill manpower needs. Promising

employees can be identified and trained for higher level jobs. Training helps
to remove defects in the process of selection. It provides a source of
competent replacement.

MAN MANAGEMENT
It is a part of human resource management managing the work force
according to the need of an organization in a most productive way, in order
to achieve the goals as well as objectives of the organization.

Man power refers to the number and quality of work force required in an
organization while planning for work . therefore man power planning may be
defined as process by which management ensures the right number of
people and the right kind of people doing right things at the right time and
right place for the achievement of the desired objectives.
 it involves the determination of objectives , policies , programmers and
procedure relating to the man –power.
Man power planning has 2 main aspects

1. Quantitative aspect
2. Qualitative aspect
Man Power

Money Management Material

Machine
SUPERVISOR

PROPER PLANNING
A supervisor has to make a proper planning, what to do? When to do?
How to do the job .he has to plan the time for him self & for his sub
ordinates. A supervisor should make a effective planning which can
ensure the profit to the company & satisfaction to the others.
Maintain sound management & efficiency
A supervisor should manage the workers & sub ordinates so as to get
the job done efficiently.

COMMUNICATION SKILL
A supervisor should communicate to others so that every body can
convince to him & his tasks.
Every body should be aware about the job ,what to do.
TARGET ACHIEVING
A supervisor should always be committed towards achieving a
target, he should try at his level best to fulfill his target what is
given to him, like target productivity
CONTROL OF QUALITY
He has to check the quality of the product frequently at each
operator, if he can maintain consistency in quality , there will not
be delay in productivity, he has to watch carefully the operators
working with critical operations.
WIP MANAGEMENT
Supervisor has to control the WIP at each operator; he has to
manage in such a way that there should be uniform WIP at each
operator.
ADVANCE WORK IN HAND
There should be a consistency work in a line, operators should not be
idle, unless there will be decrease in line efficiency.
CONTROL OVER ABSENTEEISM
He should control the workers, so that there will not be frequent
absenteeism, he should collect the early information about leave, so as
to manage the lines in next day.
REDUCE COST OF PRODUCTION
Supervisor should optimize the utilization of workers; better quality &
increasing productivity can reduce the manufacturing cost & increase
the profit.
OPERATOR’S APPRAISAL & MOTIVATION
Supervisor should always encourage the workers to perform better,
introduce incentive for more productivity, awarding the best workers
among all, which can induce the motivation among the workers.
QUALITY CONTROLLER

QUALITY REQUIREMENT
A quality controller should understand what is required, what is
the simplest way to do the job, they should ensure that the right
job is being done by the right operator.
IN PROCESS CHECKING
Quality controller should check randomly at each work stations
,should maintain consistency of quality, operators having the
critical operations should be checked frequently.
PROBLEM SOLVING
Quality controllers should identify the operators not satisfying the
quality requirement, also to solve that problem immediately so as
to not hamper the productivity.
END LINE CHECKING

They have to check the finished garments randomly at end of the

line & ensures that quality standard is being maintained
consistently

TECHNICAL SKILL

A quality controller should develop technical skill to understand

the technical data & the way to implement it.
 ASSIGNMENTS FOR STUDENTS

1. Observe the training system in a garment industry.

2. Submit the report on daily duty of a supervisor.

Work sheet practice for students

1 develop a work sheet & make it practice for a supervisor role

at least for a week by referring to the supervisor in a garment
industry.
2. develop a work sheet & make it practice for a Quality
controller role at least for a week by referring to the Quality
comptroller in a garment industry.
MEN’S SHIRT
 MEN’S SHIRT

S. No. PARTS NO. OF COMPONENTS

1 Front 2
2 Back 1
3 Yoke 2
4 Sleeve 2
5 Cuff 4
6 Collar 2
7 Stand 2
8 Pocket 1
9 Sleeve placket 2
10 Front placket 1
TROUSER

S. No. PARTS NO. OF COMPONENTS

1 Front 2
2. Back 2
3. Pocket Bag 6
4. „Z‟ Piece 2
5. Packet facing 1
6. Pocket Bone 1
7. Zip Fly 2
8. Waist Band 4
 SKIRT

S. No. PARTS COMPONENTS

1. Front 1
2. Back 1
3. Waist Band 2
 DRESS

S. No. PARTS NO. OF COMPONENTS

1 Front 1
2 Back 1
3 Sleeve 2
4 Neck facing 2
 T-SHIRT

Sl. No. PARTS COMPONENTS

1 Front 1
2 Back 1
3 Sleeve 2
4 Neck Rib 1
A group of stitches with specific purpose is called
seam.
SEAM CLASS
CLASSIFICATION OF SEAM (As per ISO 4916:1991)
Seams are categorized into 8 classes are designated according to
the types and minimum number of components within the seam.

Class 1 (Superimposed seam)

General features
In this class seams are produced with a minimum of two
components. both components have the finish edge on the same
side. any other component is either similar to one of these two or
finished on two sides.
 Class 1 (Superimposed seam)
General application
Sl No. Material diagram needle penetration Use
woven and knits
1

Yoke attachment
2 in one
operation
Edge stitching on
3 front facing
i.e. French
seam
lining attach to
4 cuffs
Zip tape attach
5

6
Piping attach
Pocket setting
7

Hem Seam
8
 Class 2 (Lapped seam)

General Features

In this class seams are produced with a minimum of

two components. One component is finished on one
side and 2nd component is finished on the other side.
These two components with opposite finished edges
overlap at different levels Any other component is
either similar to one of these two or finished on two
sides.
 Class 2 (Lapped seam)
General application
Sl.No. Material Diagram Needle Common use
penetration
1 Setting elastic to briefs.

2 Felled seam

3 Cord seam

4 Sleeve setting

5 Patch pocket setting

.
6 Knit briefs and underwear.

7 Attaching yokes in 2 steps.

8 Mock Felled seam

 Class 3 (Bound seam)

General Features

In this class seams are produced with a minimum of

two components One component is finished on one
side and the 2nd component is finished on other side.
These two components are finished at opposite sides
and on the same level. Any other component is ether
similar to one of these two or finished on two sides.
 Class 3 (Bound seam)

General application

Sl. Material Needle Common use

No. Diagram penetration
1 Carpet stitch

2 Setting collar on t-shirt

3 Setting waistband

4 Serging and binding on

outer wear.
 Class 4 (Flat Seam)

General Features

In this class seams are produced with a minimum of

two components One component is finished at one
side and the 2nd component at the other side. These
two components are opposite and at the same level.
Any other component is either similar to one of
these two or finished on two sides.
 Class 4 (Flat seam)

General application

Sl.No. Material Needle penetration Common use

diagram
1 Sports wear

2 Tap attach in
t-shirt.

3 Decorative
appearance.
 Class 5 (Decorative stitch)

General Features

In this class seams are produced with a minimum

of one component unfinished on two sides. Any
other component may be either finished on one
side or two sides.
 Class 5 (Decorative stitch)

General Application

Sl Material Needle Common use

.No. diagram penetration
1 Pocket attach

2 Decorative stitch

3
Attaching stripes to
shirt front.
 Class 6 (Edge neatening)
General Features
Used for edge neatening.

General Application
Sl.N Material Needle Common use
o. diagram penetration
1 Hemming shirt front.

2 Hemming t-shirts

3 Hemming shirts

4 Hemming bottom of t-
shirts

5 Serging parts panel, fly

facing

6 Dart making
 Class 7 (Edge Stitched Seam)

General Features
In this class seams are produced with a minimum of two
components One component is finished on one side (on right or
left side) and the other component is finished on two sides.

General Application
Sl.No. Material diagram Needle Penetration Common use
1 Hem and insert
elastics .

2 waistband attach

3 Waistband

4 center plaits to
shirts

5 Zip tape attach

 Class 8 (Enclosed Seam)

General Features
In this class seams are produced with a minimum of one
component finished on one side. Any other component is also
finished on two sides..

General Application

Sl.No. Material Needle Common

Diagram Penetration use
1 Marking
straps or
belt loop

2 Making
straps
Seam properties
Seam length

It is the total distance covered by continues series of stitches

determined by garment designs & dimensions of components.

Seam width

Seams width considerations are width of a seam allowance.

Seam depth

It is the thickness or the compressibility (flatness) of a seam

both of which are major factors in appearance and comfort of a
garment.
 Stitch
A stitch is a single unit of confirmation of threads made
by one or more needle threads with or without one or
more bobbin / looper threads.

Stitch class
Stitch classification is based on the structure of the
stitch and method of interlacing.
Machine in each class may have the capability of
producing several different types of stitches depending
on the machine structure and how it is set and
threaded.


 STITCHES

STITCH CLASS APPLICATION

Basting, Button sewing, Blind
100 (Chain Stitch) hemming, Decorative Stitch

200 (Hand Stitch) Hand Stitch

300 (Lockstitch) General Sewing
Front placket of shirt, Waistband, Sleeve
400 (Multi chain Stitch)
inseam & side seam of shirt, trouser
Edge finish, Seam on Bag ,Serging
500(over-edge stitch)
operation Seaming knit and woven .
600 (Flat-seam stitch)
Knits
General features
Class-100

Each loop is intra looped with the following loop of the same thread.
Opposite sides of the seam look different .This stitch type can be
easily unpicked. The seam is generally stretchable.

Class-200

Formed by single thread being passed completely from on side of the
material to the other side The thread is held by material originally
made by hand.. it is usually used for domestic purpose.

Class-300

Formed by two different thread systems. A needle thread introduced
from one side of the material is interlaced with an under thread
supplied from a Spool on the other side. The stitch is difficult to
unpick and both sides form the same appearance. Generally less
extensible than chain stitch type. More strength & durability, used for
general purpose.
Class-400

Also formed from two different thread systems. The loops of

the needle thread are drawn all the way through the material and
they are interconnected on the under side by thread supplied from
a lopper. Top and bottom sides have different appearance. The
stitch is easily unpicked and stretchable.

Class-500

Formed from one or more needle and or looper threads. Needle

threads loops are taken all the way through the material and are
interconnected with them selves or with another thread. At least
one thread system passed around the edge of the material. Used
for stitching at edges. Stitching & edge trimming is done
simultaneously by in built trimming mechanism.

Class- 600

This stitch type is generally formed by three-thread systems.

The cover threads lie on the top surface and are held in place by
the needle threads, which in turn are interlaced on the back of the
seam by the lopper thread.
 STITCH PROPERTIES
1.Stitch size
Stitch size has three dimensions length, width and height.

Stitch length
It is specified as the number of stitches per inch (SPI) and can be an
indicator of quality

High SPI shows short stitch length ,where as low SPI shows long
stitch length .Greater the SPI, greater is holding power and seam
strength. If more SPI is required more time and thread is required to
sew a seam, so cost of production will be high.

Stitch width
Stitch width and depth need to be specified for certain type
of stitches like over edge, zigzag and cover stitch etc. This is the
outer most lines determined by the space between needles on
needle bar. This is also referred as gauge.

Stitch depth
It is the distance between upper and lower surface of stitch.
 STITCH PROPERTIES
2. Thread tension

Tension is controlled by adjusting a screw that

holds the pressure discs .If too much tension is
placed on the thread will restrict and compress the
fabric that it surrounds may causes seam pucker.

3. Stitch consistency

It is the uniformity which each stitch is formed

in a row of stitches .Proper machine maintenance is a
major factor in achieving consistency
 SL STITCH SEAM
FRONT No NO.
1 301

2 301

3 301

4 2 x 401

5 301
BACK
6 2 x401

7 301
8 301

9 301

10 2 x 401

11 301
12 301

13 301
 ACCESSORIES IN RMG INDUSTRY
CLOSURES

These are fasteners used for opening & closing, also to

secure the garment.

Types of closures: -

Zipper
Button & button holes
Snaps
Hooks
Elastic
Velcro
Buckle
ZIPPER
Different parts with functions.

A) Chain

A device designed for

interlocking of several elements with
movement of slider.

Stringer: - the tape, bead &

element assembly that constitutes one
side of a chain.

B). Tapes

Tape: - A narrow strip of material to

which the elements are attached
 Zipper
(C) Sliders
Slider: - The part that opens and closes the zipper.

Mouth: - The opening in a slider that receives the chain.

Pull tab: - A part connected to a zipper slider used to operate the slider.

Flanges: - The edges of the slider formed to contain the chain.

(D) Top & Bottom Assembly

The device at the top & bottom of the chain that prevents the slider from
leaving the chain.

Bottom stop: - A part affixed to both stringers immediately below or over

the Chain.

Top stop: - A part affixed between or immediately above the interlocking

elements on either or both stringers.
Types of zippers

Continuous element zipper

A zipper consisting of two continuously formed elements i.e. coil

Separate element zipper

A zipper consisting of two series of separately formed element teeth.

Closed end zipper

A conventional metal or synthetic zipper used in pocket opening, neck line, waist
line etc.

Conventional zipper
A conventional type zipper available closed at one end, used in trouser, pants .

Decorative zipper
A zipper with a large metal or plastic tooth size and a pull tab used to enhance
the look of a garment.

Reversible zipper
A zipper constructed with a pull tab on both sides of the side used on reversible
coats, jackets.

Separating zipper

A zipper constructed with individual vertical pins which

locks together through the slider & enabling the slider to
join the parallel teeth or coil. Used on coats jackets .

Two way zipper

The zipper is made to be closed from either or both ends.

Used in Jackets, coats, & sports wear.
Button & Button holes

Button & button holes are fastening units or closures.

Button is a fastener used for closing or opening made either from
natural substance or synthetically.
Button holes have edges finished with thread ,fabric or other material

Types of button holes:-

Bound button holes :-

Rectangular in shape with side finish Used in women’s coat, leather
garments.

Loop button holes:-

Attached in a seam with loop extending beyond edge of garment parts
Straight button hole:-

A slit with cut edges finished with thread and ends reinforced with
stitching vertical or horizontal position .Used for general garment type.

Key hole button hole

Have an enlarged, round shape at the end closed to the garment

opening .Usually positioned horizontally. Used on coats, jackets.

Types of Button
Corded buttons

A button produced by twisting, looping, knotting cord, dyed string,

fabric thread.
Button is available in ready-made or self prepared.
Covered button
A two piece button form or mold the top section is
covered with a ply or plies of fabric and clamped to the button
shank .

Sew through button

A disk designed in a variety of shape, thickness and
surface patterns with two or four holes.

Shank button
The protruding part of the under side is made up of
metal, fabric or plastic for attachment to the garments.

Tack button
Tack button is a type of shank button with four parts as
tack, shank ,disc ,cap.
TACK BUTTON
Reinforced button
A flat two or four hole button attached on underside of
garment plies. Used on coats, jackets & waist band for softer
reinforcing or to prevent irritation of body.

Button size
Button diameter is specified in Lignes which is a unit of
measure equal to 1/40 of an inch.
Button sizes are available in 8L, 10L, 12L, 14L, 16L, 18L etc.

Snaps
This is a mechanical closure easy to press closed & pull open .
Available in sizes as 15,16,18,20,&24 Lignes used both in
woven & knitted sports shirts, blouses & some dress.

Hooks
These are metal fasteners used for opening & closing of the
garments. It is the assembly of a hook & a eye set. Used in
pants, kids garments, & skirts.
Elastic
Elastic may be used to create an expandable closing & opening in a garment.
Elastic quality is determined in the percentage of stretch ability & its recovery
properties.

Types of elastic
Broad elastic: - Available in width of about 15inch in width.
Narrow width elastic:-
Braids
Knit
Woven
Braided elastics :- usually have a high degree of stretch but becomes narrower
as stretched.
Knit elastics :- are produced on warp knitting machine with individual needles
fed by separate yarns.
Woven:- are heavier than knitted & braided elastic.

Velcro
Velcro fastenings have one surface covered with small nylon hooks & an
opposite surface covered with loops.
Buckles

Are made form metal, leather or

plastics. They are used to fasten narrow
articles such as belts & suspenders.

LACES & BRAIDS

It is an ornamental open work fabric or

trims made into a variety of designs.
types of lace are raschel knits, schiffli,
venise lace etc.

Braided elastics :- usually have a high

degree of stretch but becomes narrower
as stretched.
 LABELS

Labels provide information for both manufacturer & consumers

who select & use them. Brand labels are the large, colorful, image
builders that are strategically located for obvious visibility. size
labels help the apparel firms & the customers to identify the
garments.
INTERLINING

These are materials that are fused or sewn to specific areas on the inside of
garments. they may provide shape, support, improved performance for
garments.
Application
Sew-in interlining: - are sewn directly to the garment or components.
Fusible interlining:-fusible interlinings are fabrications coated with some
form of resin or adhesive that serves as a bonding agent to hold interlining to
shell fabric.
Fusible interlining

Substrate
Adhesive (resin) (Woven, knitted,
non-woven)
Resin
A synthetic polymer material which melts & flows
within a defined temperature range.
Types of Resin coating
Powder scattering ,Dot printing ,Paste printing
,Laminating ,Melt coating

THREADS
Definition: - Sewing threads are special types of yarns
composed of Fiber type, construction ,size &
special types of finish .
Thread package




Container
 Types of package
Spools
Spools Contain relatively short yardage usually 100mt or 500mt.
Suitable for domestic sewing .

Cops
Small, cylindrical tubes with off winding for stability
Length: 1000mt –2500mt.

Cones
Cones are symmetrical & cross-wound thread. Ideal for automatic
sewing machine

Vi-cones
contains polished or continuous filament threads

Containers
Containers are constructed to handle large monofilament threads
which would be difficult to control on standard package.

Cocoon

These are designed for insertion in the shuttle of multi-needle

quilting machine & some types of embroidery machine.

Pre wound bobbin

These are precision wound packages in different sizes designed to

replace metal bobbins in Lock stitch machine.

PACKING MATERIALS
Types of Packaging material
Paper Gum tapes
Plastic Film Bands
Staples Wood cases
Cords (ropes) Poly ethylene cover
Assignment for students

1. Collect different types of raw materials used

in the garment industry.
2. Draw different types of raw materials with
different parts.
 RAW MATERIAL REQUIREMENT

Different types of raw materials are used for

manufacturing of a shirt are as follows
Fabric Packing Materials
Interlining Labels
Sewing thread Price tags
Buttons
Other accessory materials
Operation no. Name of operation M/c type Attachment

1 Hem pocket L/S 1/32”top stitch p/f

2 Crease pocket Pocket Creaser
3 Sew front placket Placket Sewing Folder 1 1/2'”
4 Folding right front edge L/S Front edge folder
5 Sew pocket L/S 1/32 “ top stitch p/f
6 Attach yoke to back L/S /32 “ top stitch p/f
7 Join shoulder L/S Shoulder seam folder
8 Attach sleeve O/L
9 Top stitch on sleeve L/S Sleeve folder
10 Side seam & in seam with w/c F/O/A Folder
11 Fuse collar &band interlining Fusing m/c --
12 Run stitch L/S --
13 Trim collar & band scissor ---
14 Pressing iron --
15 Top stitch & join L/S ¼” top stitch p/f
16 Trim upper collar Scissor ---
17 Top stitch collar band L/S 1/32” top stitch p/f
18 Trim band & notch scissor ---
19 Attach collar &label L/S 1/32” top stitch p/f
20 Close collar L/S 1/32” top stitch
21 Hem cuff interlining L/S Hemming guide
22 Run stitch cuff L/S --
23 Turn & press cuff Cuff creaser --
24 Top stitch cuff L/S ¼ “ Top stitch p/f
25 Attach cuff L/S --
26 Close cuff L/S 1/32” top stitch
27 Bottom hem L/S Hemmer
28 Sew button hole B/H Clamp
29 Sew button B/S Clamp
 M/C’S USED IN MANUFACTURING
Different types of machines used in manufacturing
process are as follows/c, m/cs are selected as per the
requirement ,quality & productivity requirement.

Single needle Lock stitch m/c

Double needle lock stitch m/c
Chain stitch m/c
Over edge m/c
Flat stitch m/c
Blind hemming m/c
Button hole m/c
Button stitch m/c
Bar tack m/c
Lock stitch UBT m/c
Fusing machine
F/O/A m/c
Assignment for students

1. Submit an assignment on parts &

components of jacket & coat.
2. Operation break down for trouser, skirt ,T-
shirt, Trouser.
 TYPES OF SAMPLES & SAMPLE APPROVAL
First sample
A first sample is made according to the information
given by the customer actual sample or design sketch.

Approval sample
This has been approved by customer. The style, size &
fitting have met the customer’s requirement & can be
used as a reference sample in mass production.

Photo sample
Once sample has been approved & order has been
placed, photo samples may made from bulk fabric with
different colours for shop display.
Size set sample
One sample of each specified size is made
according to the customer’s size specification.
these are used for fitting purpose, so size
measurement is important.

Salesman sample
These samples are made for promotion or
sales & quantity is usually in the range of more.

Production sample
Before production, sample may be made in the
production line for worker’s reference.

Shipment sample
It is taken from the bulk production &sent to
customer as a reference for receiving the
shipment.

 TYPES OF PATTERNS & PATTERN CHECKING

Types of patterns
Patterns used in the industry are generally of two types.
1. Basic patterns
2. Industrial patterns

1.Basic pattern
This is the original pattern made by the pattern master,
this can also be called as reference pattern. this pattern
is used to develop other sizes of patterns through
grading process. It does not include seam allowances.
This pattern is not used for marker making/cutting .

2. Industrial pattern
This type of patterns are also called ready patterns.
this includes seam allowances & other necessary
information on the pattern. this pattern directly can be
used for marker making/cutting.

Pattern checking
Pattern is checked for avoiding the following problems
Correct size
Pattern mixing with other style
Correct labeling
Placement of darts & notch marks
Pattern missing
Missing of necessary markings

FABRIC & ACCESSORY PROCUREMENT

Procurement of fabric & accessories is done as per the

requirement of the buyers
It is the responsibilities of the merchandiser for sourcing
the right material at right time from right vendors. the
procurement should ensure that it should be economical
with the required quality.
Delay in procurement affects the shipment date & other
business activity
 Types of raw materials for procurement

Fabric
Interlining
Lining
Buttons
Zippers
Sewing threads
Labels
Poly bags
Laces
Embroidery thread
Packing box
Packing materials
PRODUTION TESTING & CHECKING OF FABRIC

Fabric is checked thoroughly before going for

the production process, different types of fabric
checking systems like 4-point system,10-point
system are followed.

During fabric checking following points should be

considered.

Shade segregation
Identification of defects
Fabric quantity
Fabric design
Fabric width in relation to marker width
 THANKS!
ANY QUESTION?