Bouldering Guide

DALMATIA / Croatia

Luka Kivela
INTRODUCTION TO DALMATIA BOULDERING GUIDE

Welcome to the first edition of the long awaited Dalmatia bouldering guide!

For many years we enjoyed our traditional easy going lifestyle and were too
lazy to compose a proper boulder guide. Reliance on our good memory and
transmission of information by the campfire “from father to son” was good enough.
..until a few years back.
The number of bouldering areas grew, we began to forget, transmission turned
problematic and this was the moment when we decided that it was time for a guide!

Bouldering in Split area dates from 1989 when local climbers Ante Zavadlav and
Ivica Franceschi Frenky discovered a potential for this new and progressive climbing
style. Ante climbed the first boulder problem in town – Kvasimodo on Turska Kula and
Frenky opened the first lines on Lovrinac including a long traverse across the left sector
known as never repeated Frenky`s traverse.

At the beginning of the new millenium bouldering grew in popularity and a new
wave of local climbers inspired by the movies like the Real Thing and Rampage got
hooked. Slaven Vručinić brought the first crash pad to town and climbed the
hardest lines so far, 7A and 7B (Rebus, Džihad / Lovrinac).
Many new boulder areas such as Sućurac, Trogir, Texas (…), were discovered
and locals shared their passion with strong and experienced Slovenian climbers,
who confirmed our beliefs that we have some really good limestone bouldering.

The first climb in the Font 8 level was done by Urh Čehovin in 2005 with the
FA of Ptičja Gripa (8A+) in Sućurac and in the following years local aces, led by
strong names like Boris Zokić and Luka Kivela opened many new lines and set
standards in both old and new areas like Tugare, Biokovo, Glavice....

Dear friends, don't ask how we managed to do this but here it is, the guide is finally
in front of you! Once you start to use it outside please remind yourself about some
important notes like:

- respect parking and private property regulations.

- pay extra attention on bouldering spots noted as parts of hunting areas.
- leave no trace of your visit – pick up trash, brush holds and clean tickmarks.
- be aware that our bouldering areas are not crowded and taking gardening shears
with you is always a good idea.
- during the spring and summer watch out for snakes(poskok) when walking around.
- feel free to send us informations about FAs, new areas or some important notes
about content of this guide.

Believe it or not, plans have already been made for the second edition of this guide
and till then – ENJOY YOUR BOULDERING!
Stand start

Sit start

Defined top

Top out

Starting holds x x
sometimes starting holds are defined
or it’s not so easy to figure out start position
this is help for you :)

croatia bouldering
@croatia_bouldering

croatiabouldering@gmail.com
www.croatiabouldering.com
+385 98 907 6175
What?
move on
Thank you
Vinko Ninčević Marin Radmilović
Ivan Lisica Lobel Krivić
Boris Zokić Nikola Tešija
Minja Čulić Dario Vrdoljak
Ivan Mario Staničić Vedran Puljiz
Frane Čulić
 4
SINJ

3 6
5 10
TROGIR 2 1 7
SPLIT 8

OMIŠ

7-14 LOVRINAC 51-54 BLACA

25 problems 4 problems

1 6

15-19 TURSKA KULA 55-59 PEĆINA

16 problems 5 problems

2 7

20-35 SUĆURAC 60-82 TUGARE

36 problems 47 problems

3 8

36-45 GLAVICE 83-121 BIOKOVO

16 problems 57 problems

4 9

46-50 TROGIR 122-145 TEXAS

4 problems 54 problems

5 10
Lovrinac
Lovrinac is the birthplace of bouldering in Croatia.
Landing is nice, climbing style is hardcore and you will get strong there!
It‘s situated in a very center of the graveyard so climbing is forbiden but
who cares, just be quiet as much as you can, otherwise you may wake up
the dead poeple. If they arrive don’t tell them about this guide, enjoy!
SPLIT LOVRINAC

43.510384,16.491106
P
Ivan Lisica - Munja 7a
1

3
2
x x x
x
Lovrinac

1. Rebus 7a
2. Čovjek brdo 7b
3. Kamarad 6b

4b

xx 44a x
7
6 x

4a. Prečka 6b 6. Human Behavior 6c

4b. Frenkijeva Prečka mystery 7. Šah mat 7c+
5. Marjanov 7a+
Luka Kivela - Boomerang 7c
Urh Čehovin - Don’t follow me 7c+

Slaven Vručinić - Sloperica 7a

1

10
12
8 9 13
x x x
x x
x
11
x
x
x
7 x
8 9

6
Lovrinac

8. Žena dijete 7b 11. Black tattoo 8a

9. Bjutiful 6b 12. Thriller 7c+
10. Flash 6c+ 13. Boomerang 7c

10 x
11 12
19
18
15 16
14

17

1 14. Munja
15. Đihad
7a
7b don’t use X
17. Fly
18. L'esperance
6b+
6b+
16. Don’t follow me 7c+ you can use jugs 19. Ebola 7a
and uderclings only as a foothold
1

17

20 x x
Lovrinac

20. Sloperica 7a without /// on the photo)

x 24
23 x
22

21 x
x
x x

1 21. Joe kata

22. Kundun
6b+
6b
24. Štrumf 5+

23. Posljednji Bibinjac 7b without jugs

above //// on the photo
 Turska kula
Turska Kula isn’t a very nice bouldering area, but if you stay
in Split for a few days it’s worth a visit, especially if you want to try
The dark side of The moon 7c+.
Be careful when toping out because of the rock quality,
also watch out for junkie needles around.
 TURSKA
KULA

SPLIT

3
2 1

43.519695, 16.440807

P
2

Boulder 1
5

4
x
2 x
x x
x
1
x

3
Turks kula

xx
xx

1. Ping pong 7a 4. Sulejman Veličanstveni 7b

2. Kvasimodo 6a+ 5. Turska kava 6b+
3. The dark side of the moon 7c+

Luka Kivela - Sulejman V. 7b

2

Boulder 2
1
2 3
Turks kula

1. Mlađo 6b+
2. Sale 6a+
3. Boro 6b

Boulder 2
4
5

4. Spiky 6a
5. Rade 6c
2

Boulder 3
1 4
2 3
x
5
x x 6
x
Turks kula

1. Eđi tins 7a 4. Salamica 6a+

2. Garfield 6a+ 5. Panceta 6a
3. Salamura 7b maybe you will 6. Dežbjego 6a
need to double pad to reach the starting hold for L hand
 Sućurac
Lovely place, full of bushes on the way, take the gardening shears.
Cold windy days means a lot for this area, summer is to hot. Have fun!
43.560158, 16.434136
 4

5
6
3
2

43.560158, 16.434136 P

1
Filip Kurtović - Jaka i Kila 7b
3

Boulder 1
2

1 x x

x 4
x

3
x
x

5
Sućurac

1. Dišpet 7a 4. Jaka i Kila 7b

2. Dobro jutro 6a 5. Stres 7b+/c
3. Oja-noja 7b+

Boulder 1

x
5
x

6. Grit 6b

5. Stres 7b+/c 7. Grit 6b

6. Ema 6b+
3

Boulder 1
11
10

9
8
Sućurac

8. Kivi 6a+ 10. Boći 6c

9. Sestre 6b+ 11. Milky way 7a

Boris Zokić - just posing

Nikola Brajnov - Dišpet 7a
Endless tries of Salih Mulaosmanović in Ptičja Gripa 8a+
Daniel Piccini holding ubrella.
3

Boulder 2
4

x
2 x
3
1

x
Sućurac

1. One Move 7b 3. Brad shit 6a+

2. Tri, četri, sad 6c+ 4. Deep shit 7b

Boulder 2
6

5. Đus 7a+ 7. Elvis 7a+

6. Ptičja gripa 8a+
3

Boulder 2
8
Sućurac

8. Eni 5+

Boulder 2
10
9

11

9. Laki 5+ 11. Monkey 6c

10. Lagani 5+
3

Boulder 3
1

2
Sućurac

1. Bibe 6b
2. Bobo 6a+

Boulder 3

3
4

3. Natalia 5+
4. Anamarija 6a
3

Boulder 3
6
5

x
x
Sućurac

5. Kikiriki 6a
6. Stoko 6a

Boulder 3
7

7. Provodi 6b
Boris Zokić - Ptičja Gripa 8a+
3

Boulder 4
1
Sućurac

1. Postinje 7a

Nik Oil - Postinje 7a

3

Boulder 5
1 2
Sućurac

1. Per Sara 5+
2. Nala 5+

Boulder 5

3. Smiješne riječi 6a+

3

Boulder 6
1 2
Sućurac

1. Sućac blues 5a
2. Za ekipu 5+

Boulder 6
3

3. Dracula 6a+
 Glavice
If you ever manage to get there, you will ask your self why, and how in the hell did
someone find this place. Advice is to let go bad emotions when you see shit
qualitty easy boulders, and go straight to the overhang sector (photo).
Don’t breathe when toping out, it’s probably dusty..... Have fun!
First reach these coordinates
43.725248, 16.680163
 43.725248, 16.680163

After you reach these coordinates

Search for a place to park the car P

Walk for 15 min until you reach

43.719946, 16.661845
After you reach these coordinates, go to the cliff
and you will see something like natural stairs,
after you use them, search for boulders.

43.719946, 16.661845

4
1
3
2
Boris Zokić - Sinjski granit 7a+
4

Boulder 1
1 2 3
Glavice

1. Sinjski granit 7a+ 3. Var 6b

2. High and dry 6b

Boulder 1
4

4. Jump Around 6c
4

Boulder 2
3
2

x x 3

1
Glavice

1. Neka se drugi raduju 6b+ 3. Vagina 7a+

2. Cabron 7b+ hard
start, hands on slopers, feet far below
on the big undercling

1
x
3 Boulder 2
6
5

4. Tramp 7b 6. Nezgodni 6b
5. Eto te đavle 6b+
Luka Kivela - Moment 7b+
4

Boulder 3
1
x

x
Glavice

1. Hit and run 7a dyno

Boulder 4
5
4

1 2 3

1. Žigolo 6b+ 3. Poor your mother 6b

2. Moment 7b+ dyno, right 4. Koincidencija 6a
foot is high, don’t use undercling 5. DreamBečar 5c
Trogir
Small bouldering area above the sport climbing spot close
to Trogir is a real hidden gem and a perfect spot for cold
and windy winter days. Some blocks are missing in this
guide book because they are overgrown with
extreme bushes.
43.532293, 16.234014

Trogir
 43.534108, 16.237517
1
2

15 min walking

P
43.532293, 16.234014
Rok Klančnik - Project
5

Boulder 1
2
1
Tugare

1. Bullet 6b+
2. In your head 6b+

Boulder 2
3

1
2
x x

1. Drž Mate 6b+

2. Bura 7b
3. Project
Blaca
Quiet little area for couples with a few classics.
Sexy guy on the photo has a girlfriend.
43.571912, 16.478450

P
Dario Vrdoljak F.F. - Highway to the moon 6c+
46
Biokovo

x x

1
x

x
Blaca

1. Stairway to heaven 7b
2. Highway to the moon 6c+
Biokovo

4
3

xx

xx

3. Fat lady 7b/b+

4. Bloody hell 7a+
 Pećina
Pećina (the cave) is the home of some hardcore projects still waiting for a sender.
If you are on your way to Texas, check it out because
it’s a minute away from the parking.
 43.507758, 16.607276

P
Luka Kivela - Sikira 7b+/c

Nikola Tešija - Burek 6c

7

1 2

x x
x
x
Pećina

1. Burek 6c
2. Leeloo 7a

x
4
x x
3 x
x
x

3. Radio Ga Ga 7b 5. Sikira 7b+/c

4. Tiramisu 6a+
Urh Čehovin - Project
 Tugare
Climbing season starts in the fall, when the heat subsides
and the forest comes alive with colors. The climbs are short and powerful;
the rock takes about ten days to dry after heavy rain.
Split

Tugare

A
P

43.474619, 16.656470
43.478604, 16.646226
P B
P
C
Tugare 43.473334, 16.659728
Sector A
 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
8

P
43.478604, 16.646226
8

Boulder 1
4
1

2 3
Tugare

1. Cosmos 7c 4. Specijalist 7b
2. Facebook 7b
3. Friend request 6c

Barbara Gilić - Specijalist 7b

8

Boulder 2
3

x
1 2 x
Tugare

1. Kiwi 6c+
2. Hematom 7b+
3. Blade runner 8a

Boulder 2

5
x

4. Drug Tito 7b
5. Fallout 7b+
8

Boulder 3
2
1
Tugare

1. Ivo 6b+
2. Kolak 6b

Boulder 4

1. Vesela družina 6c+

Marin Banović - Božićna Čarolija 7a
8

Boulder 4
2 3
x 4 5
1
x
x x
Tugare

1. Božićna čarolija 7a 4. Mlohava ćuna 6c+

2. Stone love 7b+ 5. Tvrd orah 7a
3. Pukotina 6b

Boulder 4

6 7 8

6. Disco tropicano 5+
7. Papar 6b
8. Sačma 6a+
Eni Malenica - Stone love 7b+
Filip Vuletić - Tvrd Orah 7a
8

Boulder 5
2
1
Tugare

1. Laganica 5+
2. Feta 5+
8

Boulder 6
3
2

1
Tugare

1. Pazi metak 6a
2. Goblin 6b+
3. Auto 6b+

Boulder 6
x 5

4. Poker face 7c+

5. Tugarski poskok 7b
8

Boulder 7
3
x 2

1 x
Tugare

1. Dugi rat 6a+

2. Extreme makeover 7a
3. Lullaby 6b

Igor Savin - Extreme makeover 7a

8

Boulder 8
x
2
1
x
Tugare

1. Babe Einstain 7b
2. Putnik 6c

Boulder 8

5
3 4

3. Polica 6a+
4. Mangup 6a+
5. Dabo girl 6a
43.474619, 16.656470

Sector B
8

x
x 2

x
Tugare

1. Pelin 6c
2. Pivce za živce 7b

Luka Kivela - Pivce za živce 7b

8

3
Tugare

3. Rocky Balboa 7b+

4. Bure baruta 7c
5. Ivo Kolak 6c+
 2
1

P
43.473334, 16.659728

Sector C
Dalmatia bouldering in one photo.
8

Boulder 1
1
Tugare

1. Kemičari 7b

Boulder 2

1. Project
Boris Zokić - Unikat 7b+
8

Boulder 2
2
x

x x 3 4
x x
x
Tugare

2. Unikat 7b+ 3. Pepe le pju 7a+

(start: R hand on undercling, 4. Petar Pan 6c+
with L hand jump to reach the crimp)

Boulder 2

6 7

5. Livi 6a
6. Srednji 6c
7. Desni 5+
Biokovo
Probably the best bouldering area in Croatia. Amazing views,
oriented to the south. There are many small unmarked
boulders for kids, so it’s nice for a family trip.
Have fun!
 You have 2 options:
1st: Park the car in Bast, then walk for 1.5 km to A
or 3 km to B/C sector.
2nd: Go all the way with the car, but road can be
pretty bad, higher car would be recommended.

43.355530, 16.984796

Bast
P
C
B
A P

43.334418,16.992784
43.342549,16.986967
If you love to walk and decide to go with
the 1st option...
If you go with the 2nd option and
go all the way with a car.
 4

3
1

A
43.342549,16.986967
Eni Malenica - Baba 6a
49

Boulder 1
Biokovo

1
2
Biokovo

1. Tešija 6b
2. Slide 6b

Boulder 2
1
Biokovo

x
2
x

1. Baba 6a
2. Gorillaz 7a
499

Boulder 2
Biokovo

3
x

x
Biokovo

3. Poanta 6c+

Boulder 3
Biokovo

2
1
x

1. Baky 6a
2. Jim Morrison 7b
Ivan Lisica - Night shift 6c
 499
Biokovo Biokovo Biokovo

3. Project

1. Night shift
6c
1
3

Boulder 4 Boulder 3
C
7
6
8

4
5

B
3

1 2

43.334418,16.992784
Šime Malenica - Bijelo dugme 7b+

Sandra Bakulić - Buhač 6a+

499

Boulder 1
Biokovo

x
x

x
Biokovo

1. Bijelo dugme 7b+

2. Dugme 6c

Boulder 1
Biokovo

3. Buhač 6a+
4. Mantle 6a
 949
Biokovo Biokovo Biokovo

1. Netjak
1. Ante Gotovina
6a+

6b+
1

1
Boulder 3 Boulder 2
 949
Biokovo Biokovo Biokovo

1. Spanky

1. Get up Stand up
6c

7b+
1

1
Boulder 5 Boulder 4
499

Boulder 5
Biokovo

3
2
xx
Biokovo

2. Braco 6a+
3. Seke 6c

Boulder 5
Biokovo

x
4

4. Afrika 5+
 499
Biokovo Biokovo Biokovo

2. Laganica
1. Don Kaćunko
6a

5+
1

2
Boulder 6 Boulder 6
949

Boulder 7
Biokovo

x x
Biokovo

1. Od sumraka do zore 7b

Boulder 8
Biokovo

x
x

1. Godišnji odmor 6a
Luka Kivela - Od sumraka do zore 7b
 19
11 18
11

17
11

15
11 14
11
16
11
13
11

12
11

11 10

7 8

6
5

4
C
3

2
1
 499
Biokovo Biokovo Biokovo

1. Idila

1. Beba
5+
6c

1
1

x
x

Boulder 2 Boulder 1
Barbara Gilić - Debeljko 7a
 499
Biokovo Biokovo Biokovo

1. Balans
1. Debeljko
7a

6a+
x
1

1
x

Boulder 4 Boulder 3
499

Boulder 5
Biokovo

x 4
x
x 3

x x

x
Biokovo

1. Jaja na razdjeljak 6c 3. Mufasa 7b+

2. Dyno 6c 4. Jeti 6b

Boulder 6
Biokovo

1. Đokica 6a+
499

Boulder 6
Biokovo

2
Biokovo

2. Spock 6c+

Boulder 7
Biokovo

1
2

1. Muflon 5+
2. Balkanac 6b
Darian Duka - Balkanac 6b
Ivan Lisica - Boldermama 6c
949

Boulder 7
Biokovo

4
x

xx
x
3
5

x
x 6
Biokovo

3. La vida loca 7a 5. Boldermama 6c

4. Ricky Martin 7b+

Boulder 7
Biokovo

6
6
6. Robert Plant 7a
499

Boulder 7
Biokovo

x x
7 xx
9
x

x
Biokovo

7. Bijeli očnjak 7a+ 9. Omudina 8a

8. Omi 6c

Boulder 7
Biokovo

10

10. Slađa 6c
 499
Biokovo Biokovo Biokovo

1. Cajka
1. Tiramisu

6a+
6a+
1

1
Boulder 9 Boulder 8
 499
Biokovo Biokovo Biokovo

1. Piccolo
1. Jiu Jitsu
x

6b+
7b+
x
1

1
Boulder 11 Boulder 10
499

Boulder 12
Biokovo

x
Biokovo

1. Lolek i Bolek 7a+

Boulder 13
Biokovo

1 2

1. Zvrk 6b+
2. Sv. Stipan 6c
Marin Banović - Babulj 6c
Sandra Bakulić - Pearl Jam 7b
499

Boulder 14
Biokovo

2
1
Biokovo

1. Pearl Jam 7b
2. Babulj 6c

6
Boulder 15
Biokovo

x x

1. A je to 6c
 499
Biokovo Biokovo Biokovo

1. Uncas

1. Inhibator
7a
6a+
1

1
Boulder 17 Boulder 16
 Biokovo
499
Biokovo Biokovo

1. Unučić
1. Motivacija

7a
6b
1

1
Boulder 19 Boulder 18
Texas
After the fire has burned all the trees it looks like you are on the way to Mordor.
So if you feel like Frodo, this is good place for you. Good thing is that you have
many areas where you can brake your leg. But don’t worry, holds are sharp
and boulders are cruel. Good luck.
 BOULDERS
30 min walking from
parking to boulders

43.521129, 16.609984

43.519984, 16.603248
 1

2
43.521129, 16.609984

13
7
15
17
14
16
8 19
9
18
12
11

10

22 21 20

23

24
10
4

Boulder 1
Biokovo

x x
Texas

1. Una storia 7b hard mantle

Boulder 2
Biokovo

1. Buda 6c you can use the rock

below for foot
10
4

Boulder 3
Biokovo

1
Texas

1. Lost Temple 7c crimps, hard move

on left heel

Boulder 4
Biokovo

1. Calcaneus 7a/+ hard move on right heel

Ivo Kolak - Debela guza 7b
10
4

Boulder 5
Biokovo

1 2
Texas

1. Funky 6c
2. Debela guza 7b

Boulder 6
Biokovo

1. Catch it 6a
Sandra Bakulić - Brave heart 7a
Ivo Kolak - Bumbarov let 7c
10
4

Boulder 7
Biokovo

2
Texas

1. Čmar 6a
2. Hole dynamic 6b+

Boulder 7
Biokovo

3 4
5
6
xx
xx

3. Brave heart 7a 5. Bumbarov let 7c

4. Flight club 7c 6. Light club 7a
10
4

Boulder 8
Biokovo

1
Texas

1. Michael Jordan 7a+ dyno

Boulder 9
Biokovo

1
2

1. Krafna 5+
2. Hrenovka 5+
10
4

Boulder 10
Biokovo
Texas

Boulder 10
Biokovo

x
x

2
x x

1. Jimmy 6c
2. Jimmy Webb 7c sit start on the tree
10
4

Boulder 11
Biokovo

1
Texas

1. Brabonjak 6c+

Boulder 12
Biokovo

1. Grizly Adams 7c
10
4

Boulder 13
Biokovo

4 5
2
1
xx
xx
Texas

1. Aerosoft 6c 3. Pukotina 6b
2. Aeroflot 7c use only left 4. Za ekipu 6a+
side of the crack 5. Gastritis 6c

Boulder 13
Biokovo

6
x x

x 7

6. Trener 7b+
7. Bezdan 8a+ hard sit start,
use only one crash pad for start
10
4

Boulder 13
Biokovo

8 9
Texas

8. Freak 6c+
9. Dijagonala 6a

Boulder 13
Biokovo

10
x
x

10. Dva extremiteta 7a

10
4

Boulder 13
Biokovo

11
Texas

11. Masni Kiwi 7a+

Boulder 14
Biokovo

2
3

1. Beba 5+
2. Duda 5+
3. Kantun 5+
Ivan Lisica - King Kong 7b+
10
4

Boulder 15
Biokovo

1
x
x
2
x
x
Texas

1. Fobija 6b+
2. King kong 7b+

Boulder 16
Biokovo

1 2

1. Slonica nelica 6b
2. Lala 5+
10
4

Boulder 17
Biokovo

1
Texas

1. Harrison Ford 6a

Boulder 18
Biokovo

1
x
3 x
2

1. Massive batak 6c
2. Analadin 6c
3. Joint 6a+
 4
Biokovo Texas Biokovo
10

1. Bratko

1. Yugo 45
1

6a

6b
x x
1
Boulder 20 Boulder 19
10
4

Boulder 21
Biokovo

2
1
Texas

1. Skalinada 6a+
2. Oliver Dragojević 6c+

Boulder 22
Biokovo

1. Đigi Migi 6a
10
4

Boulder 23
Biokovo

1 2
4
3 5
Texas

1. Bari 6a 4. Muoviti muoviti 6a

2. Stella azzura 6c 5. Zvonko 6b
3. Grande Punto 6b+

Boulder 24
Biokovo

x x

x x 2

1. Đokica 6b
2. Hannibal 7b+
There is still a lot to explore, we hope this
guidebook has given you some motivation
to seek out for new boulders and to
boldly go where no man has gone before!