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Instructions For AK Stock Replacement

Courtesy of UltiMAK Enhanced Performance

Each of the four parts of the AK stock are addressed separately;

Buttstock

Pistol Grip

Forend (lower handguard)

Upper Handguard

These instructions show an AK with a stamped (sheet metal) receiver. The Milled receivers
have some minor differences in the buttstock and grip attachment, but the basic concepts are
the same.

Also included are the "The Rules" -- four simple rules that will prevent virtually all firearm
accidents.

Always start by unloading the rifle-- Remove magazine and clear the chamber, then keep
ammunition away from the work area.
Buttstock

Field strip the rifle: Remove dust cover, carrier spring and bolt carrier assembly. Find a
screwdriver that fits the buttstock screw slots perfectly (this is important) and remove the
buttstock screws. Stamped receivers will have two of them (figure 1).

The quick and dirty method for removing the buttstock: Insert a flat bladed screwdriver into
the large hole in the top of the rear trunion, and pry the buttstock backward out of the
receiver (figure 2).

The rear socket formed by the back of the receiver is sometimes burred at the edges, which
can make it more difficult to insert the new buttstock. Run your finger along the inside edges
to feel for burrs (figure 3).

(Optional) You can use a bastard file to remove the burrs (figure 4).

Understand that AKs tend to be a bit variable in specs. Your aftermarket stock tenon is
typically going to be made on the large side so as to fit most any AK. It may be necessary to
file some material from the buttstock tenon to get it to fit. Insert the buttstock. This may
require substantial pressure. Striking the buttstock into a carpeted floor or heavy bench top
works great for us, but avoid damage to the buttplate-- don't hit it into a hard surface, such as
concrete, without some padding in between. Caution: If you're installing a folding or
telescoping stock, using this technique may cause damage to the buttstock's mechanism.

Once the buttstock is seated all the way into the receiver you can drill the pilot holes for the
screws (figure 5). For most original AK tang screws a 9/64" drill is about right. Be sure to start
the holes in the exact center of the tang hole. A transfer punch works well for this. Drill to a
depth at least equal to the screw's length (usually about 0.9 to 1")

Again using a screwdriver that perfectly fits the screw, support the rifle securely and turn the
screws in all the way-- hard against the countersinks in the tang. The forward screw on a
stamped receiver AK must be seated all the way down into the countersink to clear the
carrier spring support. This takes a lot of torque, so a big screwdriver handle, a driver that
fits the screw, and a good secure hold on the rifle are all critical. Be safe. If you find that you
cannot get the screw(s) in all the way, you may need to drill a larger and/or deeper hole.

UltiMAK sells a number of fixed, telescoping, and folding buttstocks, complete stock sets, and
individual components here, so you can put together your own custom configurations.

Pistol Grip

With the rifle field stripped, unscrew the pistol grip bolt and remove
the grip. Be sure the grip nut is in the receiver so that it slants
backward at the bottom (figure 6). Place the grip bolt into the new
grip. Holding the grip nut in the receiver with your finger, insert the
grip bolt and get the threads started (figure 7).

Tighten the bolt good and tight, then hold the grip and try to twist it
back and forth, to get it seated into the trigger guard, then tighten the
bolt some more. After a day at the range, you may need to tighten it
again, since the grip may have seated further against the trigger
guard.

Forend (lower handguard)

With the rifle field stripped, rotate the gas tube retaining pin lever
upward until the gas tube can be lifted at the back and removed from
the rifle (figure 8).

You can now access the forend retaining lever at the right-hand inside
edge of the forend cap. Use a flat bladed screwdriver to pry the
retaining lever up and around 180 degrees, so that it points toward
the muzzle (figure 9). If your rifle has a stowed cleaning rod, make
sure it is removed at this time. Now the forend cap can slide forward.
You may need to tap it forward using a mallet or the plastic butt of a
screwdriver (figure 10). Now you can work the forend forward, out of
the front of the receiver and off the rifle (figure 11).

Installation is the reverse. The new forend may need to be squeezed

inward at the sides, and upward against the barrel in front, to get it
inside the forend cap (figure 12). This ensures a tight fit.

Some AKs have a lot more space in the front of the receiver than
others. Being designed to fit most AKs, the aftermarket forend tenon
may need to be trimmed to fit. A common #2 mill/bastard file is fine
for minor adjustments, but a razor saw (sometimes called a hobbyist's
saw) or even the saw in a Leatherman tool, may be needed for taking
off larger amounts of material. Do not trim too much-- go for a good
tight fit.

Be sure to rotate the forend cap retaining lever into its locked position
before installing the gas tube.

If you're installing a new forend in conjunction with the UltiMAK AK

optic mount, follow the directions for the mount. In some cases it may
be necessary to first install the UltiMAK optic mount with the forend
off and the forend cap unlocked-- tighten the optic mount screws most
of the way to pull the mounting clamps up into the mount and out of
the way. You can now install the forend and slide the forend cap into
place. Then remove the mount screws and remove the mount. You can
now rotate the forend retaining lever into its locked position. Your
optic mount clamps are now held in place by the forend (or forend
heat shield if applicable). Reinstall the optic mount and fully tighten
the screws.Below is a You Tube video showing the installation of the
KVFS-OD on a Chinese MAK-90;

Install a K-Var lower handgaurd with UltiM…

UltiM…

Upper handguard

With the rifle field stripped, rotate the gas tube retaining lever
upward until the gas tube can be pulled upward at the back, and off
the rifle (figure 8). (If installing an UltiMAK AK forward optic mount,
you need go no further with this section because the mount replaces
the entire gas tube/upper handguard assembly. Refer to the
instructions for optic mount installation)

Using a wrench or a bench vise, gently lock across the flat side
portions in back of the gas tube. Grab the handguard firmly and rotate
it around the gas tube axis until it is exactly upside-down (figure 13).

This may take considerable force. Now the handguard can be pushed
straight down and off the gas tube (figure 14).

There is a metal pressure clip in most wooden upper handguards. This

is not needed for the new synthetic handguard. Reassembly is the
reverse. Notice that there is a definite front and back to the
handguard-- It is larger in back and tapers toward the front. The
handguard must be pushed up into the gas tube with some force
before it will rotate into place (figure 15). Before you reinstall the gas
tube, be sure the forend retaining cap is locked in position.

Now enjoy your work. Clean the bore and bolt, take up some ammo
and do some shooting. Remember; The AK's inherent accuracy is
generally underestimated. Nearly all rifles shoot more accurately than
their owners.

Remember "The Rules" too;

1. Always keep the gun pointed in a safe direction.

2. Always keep your finger off the trigger (we like to say "out of the
trigger guard") until you're ready to shoot.

3. Always keep the gun unloaded until ready to use.

4. Know your target and what is beyond it.

The first three rules are standard NRA rules and will serve you well.
We add the fourth, which comes from Cooper, as a way to help you
think about your shooting situations in the field.

You can spot an inexperienced and/or undisciplined shooter a block

away, because among other things, you'll see the trigger finger go
right onto the trigger as soon as the rifle is in the hands (see rule 2
above).

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