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Thank you for purchasing Albion Bath Company products, which, following correct installation and care, will

give years of
pleasurable use.

In order to ensure trouble-free assembly and correct care, please read the following, fully, before commencing any installation
work.

It is most important that before work begins, you check that you have all items required to complete the installation successfully.

Due to the varying age and type of construction of properties, instructions cannot be definitive and are meant as a general guide
only. This is particularly relevant regarding fixing of items to the fabric of your building. Installations should be carried out to the
relevant standards and local by-laws as appropriate.

If in doubt, seek the advice of suitably qualified persons or contact the manufacturers directly.

Failure to follow these instructions may cause damage/shorten life expectancy of equipment and thus invalidate guarantee.

CLEANING AND GENERAL CARE OF ALBION PRODUCTS


Care should be taken whilst installing items, so as not to damage the plated surface by the misuse of tools and corrosive liquids
that may be present during installation. With Nickel plating especially, only non-acetic acid based sealants etc should be used.

On no account should harsh abrasives, scourers or brushes be used on Albion bath interiors/exteriors, brassware and
woodwork as these will cause unsightly damage. Paint effects (including hand burnished finishes) and most Albion products,
should be cleaned with a soft clean cloth and soapy water only.

The finish on the interior of baths should be cleaned using proprietary non-abrasive cleaner suitable for bathroom equipment.
Particular care should be taken dependent upon the chosen cleaner and type of plated finish on brassware (please refer to
cleaning manufacturer’s guidelines for use). With Nickel plating especially, limescale removing/acid based products, household
bleaches or oxidising products should not be used as these will cause discolouration/damage to the plated surface. For granite
and wood items, these must be sealed and cleaned with

If indices on tap heads are required to be re-aligned, the screw in the centre of the tap head should be removed to allow the tap
head to be removed from its splines and repositioned accordingly. Once the desired position has been set, the head retaining
screw should be replaced. Indices should then be pushed into the recess at the top of the headwork. A little washing up liquid
on the O-ring will assist in ensuring an easier fit. Where the index is loose a little dab of non-acetic acid based sealant on the
underside of the index will secure it in the desired position.

IMPORTANT - BEFORE YOU USE YOUR NEW ALBION SYSTEM

Ensure valves and waterway seals are correctly and firmly fastened to ensure compatibility with the system design. Test seals
and fixings for water-tightness and stability.

Note: Particular attention should be paid in ensuring all overflow and drainage points operate correctly. This should be
ascertained by filling and emptying equipment a number of times until satisfaction of correct operation.

Flush toilets and allow cisterns to refill a number of times, checking float/water level and correct operation of ball valve,
overflow(s) and waste.

Failure to follow the instructions/checklist provided may well invalidate your warranty.

Your statutory rights remain unaffected.

Plumbing/electrical works should be carried out by suitably qualified persons. If in doubt regarding any part of the
installation, please contact Albion direct on (01255) 831 605.
ASSEMBLY OF YOUR FREE STANDING BATH
1 Unless supplied otherwise, the exterior of the bath/plinth will require painting prior to installation. The surface is
prepped ready for the desired paint to be applied. The exterior surface of the bath/plinth should be lightly abraded all
over to ensure correct adhesion of top coat paint. Any eggshell (either oil or water based) paint can be used to paint
the bath so long as you check for suitability of use in bathrooms. Albion suggest applying the paint with a flat foam
radiator roller (4” wide small type rollers are best). Always test your chosen paint on a hidden area for compatibility/to
ascertain whether additional surface preparation is required. Please refer to the paint manufacturers’ instructions
regarding application and curing times etc. Always ensure that the surface is dry and dust/grease free prior to painting.

Note: Where no finish has been ordered for bath feet, these are supplied in bare cast iron and will therefore need to be
treated/sealed appropriately. The use of preparatory metal paint such as Hammerite is recommended. Any rust that is
present should be cleaned using a wire brush, prior to painting/sealing as appropriate.

2 Place the bath upside down on a suitable surface, avoiding any potential damage to the internal surfaces. Remove
the four transit foot bolts that are screwed into the feet securing points on the underside of the bath. The feet fitting kit
supplied comprises the following items; 4 bolts, 4 large washers, 4 lock-nuts and 4 Neoprene washers. Note: There is
no need to cut the bolt to length.

For Imperium/Geminus Plinth fitting, bolt the plinth to the base of the bath using the fitting kit provided and
proceed to point 7 below.

3 Screw the lock-nut fully onto the foot bolt and place the metal washer, followed by the neoprene washer, onto it.

4 Pass the bolt, nut and washer assembly through the large hole drilled into the cast iron foot web. Hold the foot
assembly to the underside of the bath and thread the bolt into the captive nut that is encapsulated into the structure of
the bath. Do not over-tighten (30Nm maximum) as this will damage the captive nut encapsulated into the bath
structure. Only hand nip the lock-nut at this stage, taking care to ensure the foot does not move and scratch the
exterior finish of the bath. Repeat for all four feet.

5 The bath now requires to be turned over onto its feet. This is best done with the assistance of a friend. Again special
care should be taken to ensure the foot does not move and scratch the exterior finish of the bath.

6 Once the bath is in the chosen location, check the alignment of feet and their fit to the curve of the bath exterior. Then
put your body weight across the rim of the bath and “jiggle” to allow the bath to find the correct level.

Note: Due to the handmade nature of the product there may be slight variations in the gap between feet and the
outside of the bath, which also replicates that of original baths.

If required, the feet can be adjusted slightly to compensate for any gap and unevenness in the floor surface. This is
done by releasing the lock-nut and moving the foot on the bath’s exterior curve. If the discrepancy in the floor is
greater than this adjustment caters for, it may be necessary to use packing/shims (not supplied) under the feet to
steady the bath. Where the discrepancy is greater still, an authentic method of adjusting the height of baths is the use
of wooden “stretchers” placed width ways beneath the feet of the bath. These wooden stretchers can be planed to the
desired height to compensate for two way uneveness.

The bath must also be fixed to the floor at each foot which may also assist in the stability of the bath and positioning of
feet. This is best achieved by using screws on a wooden floor or by appropriate anchor fixings into concrete/solid
floors which should be positioned in the horseshoe shaped cut-out at the back of the base of each foot.

7 Once all appropriate connections have been made the bath/plinth should be secured in place by screwing/bolting
through the 4 holes provided (Imperium plinth) or using four or so dabs of silicone to secure (Geminus
plinth/Apollo/Torre’s/straight to floor baths), or battens of wood screwed/adhered to the floor to stop the bath moving
laterally and vertically (Advance baths).

Due to the hand made nature of the product overall sizes and clearances may differ from those stated in product
literature. Clearances between underside of bath and floor may be affected due to foot adjustment etc. This may
cause problems with the fitting of standard shallow “P”-traps. In such cases the use of Hepworth (HepVO) type in line
traps should be considered.

8 Remove the protective wrapping from the bath after installation.

TRIDENT BATH

Albion’s Trident bath should be sealed at the wall by appropriate means to ensure that when showering, water runs down the
tiled wall and into the bath.

Many plumbers like to install “cabin” type baths by “grooving” out the wall and insetting the lip of the bath into the wall prior to
tiling down to it. This not only provides stability but moreover is a very goods way of ensuring water tightness at the bath/wall
join. Where chasing/grooving of the wall is not possible, trident baths should be affixed to the wall by some form of
bracket/fixing. In its simplest form, fixing could be battens positioned on both walls under the rim of the bath. Once fixed at the
appropriate position, the bath should be adhered to the batten by the use of Silicone/gripfix type adhesives.

Once the bath is fixed, the join between the bath/wall should be sealed in the desired manner by use of either silicone sealant or
quadrant ceramic tile/plastic strip finishers.
ALBION WASTE
Albion’s bath waste has been developed for use in Albion baths only. This comprises five main parts; Albion overflow plate/grill
and screw, overflow rear casting, overflow pipe (inc. fixings), waste undercasting (inc. fixings) and plug assembly. Fitting is as
per standard exposed bath wastes, with the overflow pipe being cut on site by the installer to suit the model of bath being
installed. The overflow name ring should be adhered to the bath surface by the use of the double sided sticky ring supplied. To
ensure water tightness, a non-acetic acid based sealant should be used between the underside of the plug surround flange and
the inside surface of the bath as appropriate. PTFE tape or similar thread sealant should be used between the waste and
undercasting as appropriate.

Note: Remove plug and brass push mechanism from plug assembly before fitting waste assembly. DO NOT tighten waste
assembly to waste undercasting by using spanner or pliers on the brass push mechanism as this will cause damage to the unit.

INTERNAL OVERFLOW BATHS


These baths are constructed using a composite solid stone material. The average dry weight of the baths is between 80 and
190kg and therefore consideration must be given to locating the bath tub with regard to weight loading. Installers must ensure
proper provision for the lifting and carrying of the bath tub with regard to prevailing Health and Safety legislation.

The bath tubs are supplied with pre-drilled waste and overflow holes with an integral overflow system cast within the bath
material.

Consideration must be given to the plumbing layout of the bath tub prior to location. The supply to the taps will be at the
discretion of the installer/specifier with regard to his or her choice.

Connection of internal overflow

The integral white plastic overflow tube requires to be connected to the plated backing sump on site by the installation engineer
as appropriate. It is suggested that the bath is turned on its side and the fittings are tried “dry” to enable any cutting/adjustment
to be made prior to final fit. The necessary components (supplied) should be assembled as follows;

1. Fit the push waste through the waste hole of the bath and fit loosely to the waste undercasting using PTFE tape or
similar thread sealant as appropriate. To ensure water tightness, a non-acetic acid based sealant should be used
between the underside of the plug surround flange and the surface of the bath as appropriate.

Note: Remove plug and brass push mechanism from plug assembly before fitting waste assembly. DO NOT tighten
waste assembly to waste undercasting by using spanner or pliers on the brass push mechanism as this will cause
damage to the unit.

2. Place one end of the reinforced 25mm hose over the white plastic overflow tube.

3. Place one of the two jubilee clips over the connection between the black reinforced 25mm hose and white overflow
pipe and gently secure to ensure the hose will not come off. At this point it is suggested not to fully tighten the jubilee
clip as some adjustment may be necessary.

4. Slide the other jubilee clip over the black reinforced hose and loosely fit it over the small section of overflow tube and
connect to the waste undercasting.

Note: It is important that the reinforced hose is not kinked and forms a smooth curved bend and can be cut as
appropriate.

5. When the hose is correctly positioned as stated above, tighten both jubilee clips as appropriate.

6. Remove the protective wrapping from the bath after installation.

Connection of 42mm waste

If the waste pipe run is to be above the bathroom floor, a 42mm diameter hole/”mouse hole in skirting board” type cut-out will
need to be made through the skirt section of the bath allowing the waste pipe to be routed accordingly.

If the desired plumbing installation does not allow the use of a ‘P’ trap or ‘U’ bend underneath the bath tub, it is therefore
suggested that multi-fit Hepworth (HepVO) type in line traps should be used.

Once all connections have been made and tested as appropriate four or so dabs of silicone should be used to secure the bath
to the floor.

Due to the hand made nature of the product overall sizes and clearances may differ from those stated in product literature.

Following installation, allow all joints to cure before testing correct system operation as appropriate.
GLOBE TAP CONNECTION

Globe taps utilise a ¾” BSP female thread for connection, for which to connect to standard 22mm pipework. Albion supply ¾”
BSP male to 22mm compression 90 degree connectors as part of the installation kit.

Dependent upon the thickness of bath to be installed to, the threaded section of the 90 degree connector may require
shortening. The thread needs to be long enough to be passed through the tap hole in the bath and into the tap to ensure water
tightness and stability of the tap/90 degree fitting on the outside of the bath. The thread can be simply cut with a hacksaw and
any burrs removed with a file. Once the required length of thread is obtained, the ¾” BSP connection should be made with the
use of PTFE tape or non-acetic acid based thread sealant as appropriate. The 22mm compression joints should then be used
to connect to the hot and cold water supplies as normal.

PIPESHROUDS

Pipeshrouds are used to cover copper/plastic/flexible tap supplies and comprise two lengths of brass plated tubing and two floor
flanges with securing grub screws. Note: The lengths of plated tubing will require to be “dropped” into the floor void to facilitate
connection of tap supplies. Therefore, horizontal first fix plumbing beneath the floor should be positioned as low as possible.

To install pipeshrouds, drill two 40 to 50mm diameter holes in the floor at the appropriate spacing for the taps to be used. This
diameter will allow the plated tube to pass easily through the floor into the space beneath whilst leaving enough space for
screwing the flanges to the floor to secure the base of the tube once fitted.

Before cutting/fitting the tubing it is important that you determine the correct length that may require cutting. It is suggested that
the tap supplies are initially “dry” fitted in order to assess that the required length of tube may be measured prior to cutting.
Make sure that the tube can “drop” into the floor void sufficiently to allow connection of tap supplies and that once the taps are
connected, the tube can be pulled up to fully cover the tap supplies whilst still being inside the floor flange. Once the necessary
measurements have been made, excess tube can be cut off.

Prior to final connection, place floor flanges loosely over holes in floor and pass tubing over tap supplies and into flanges. Make
tap connections and test for water tightness prior to pulling up plated tubing and securing with grub screws in floor flanges.
Finally, secure flanges to floor with screws as appropriate.

STANDPIPES

Standpipes are used in situations where “freestanding” taps are required and as such must be fixed securely to the floor using
the screw holes provided in the base flanges. The water supplies pass through each standpipe and are affixed to the taps
accordingly. In most situations, connections are made from beneath the floor enabling the use of copper supplies straight to the
taps via tap connectors.

Grub screw secured top cap


In order to assemble the standpipes the top cap must first be removed from the top of the standpipe. Some minor force may be
required to do this, the utilisation of a broom handle or similar size piece of wood may be useful to “knock out” the cap from the
inside of the standpipe. Make sure this is carried out over a soft surface so as not to cause damage to the caps as they come
out of the standpipes. The top cap should then be screwed to the thread of the tap supply and connection made to a suitable
length of copper pipe which is then passed down the inside of the standpipe to connect under floor. The top cap should be
gently but firmly pushed into the top of the standpipe and secured with the grubscrew supplied.

For installations where pipework is already in position through tiles/screed floors etc the use of a flexible braided hose will be
necessary. Careful measuring and adaptation of existing pipework and the threaded tails of taps will have to be carried out and
the standpipes to be constructed “from the ground up”. The ¾” BSP supply tails for the bath mixer can be cut as required as
they are parallel thread which requires sealing with PTFE tape/non-acetic acid based thread sealant as appropriate. This will
enable the flexible hose to be connected to the existing supply pipe and with careful manipulation connection of the flexible hose
to tap supply thread before finally gently squeezing the top cap into position and securing with the grubscrew supplied.

Screw cap type top cap


In order to assemble the standpipes the top cap must first be removed from the top of the standpipe by unscrewing it. The top
cap should then be screwed to the thread of the tap supply and connection made to a suitable length of copper pipe which is
then passed down the inside of the standpipe to connect under floor. The top cap should then be screwed back onto the top of
the standpipe.

For installations where pipework is already in position through tiles/screed floors etc the use of a flexible braided hose will be
necessary. Careful measuring and adaptation of existing pipework and the threaded tails of taps will have to be carried out and
the standpipes to be constructed “from the ground up”. The flexible hose should then to be connected to the existing supply
pipe and with careful manipulation connection of the flexible hose to tap supply thread before finally gently pushing the top cap
into position and screwing back onto the top of the standpipe.
EFFUSIO SHOWER RAIL

There are three main pipework components for the Effusio Shower Rail; the oval Effusio curtain/shower rail, 22mm diameter
rising pipe and smaller ‘kinked’ crosspipe (for double ended bath installation). The rising pipe is connected to the taps by use of
the ¾” BSP to 22mm compression (F1) connector supplied. Installation of the whole assembly is fairly straightforward. Firstly
install the bath and connect the bath shower mixer. Fit the shower rose to the fitting in the middle of the straight pipe at the
centre of the oval shower rail. Position the oval shower rail centrally over the bath (ensuring middle or end compression fittings
are directly above the socket in the top of the bath shower mixer, as appropriate). A ‘blanking’ compression joint is supplied to
seal the secondary input. Note: For double ended bath installation, position the crosspipe above the top of the oval rail,
measure the length required to fit into the 90 degree 22mm compression elbow and cut off waste as appropriate.

Before cutting/fitting the rising pipe it is important that you determine the correct end that may require cutting, this is dependent
upon the bath/tap configuration. For Imperium baths where the mixer tap is mounted inside the bath the bent end of the rising
pipe is connected into the socket of the bath shower mixer (i.e. The end that will require cutting is the straight end). For all other
applications (Solus/Geminus inside bath, deck mounted, wall mounted, stand pipe mounting), the straight end of the rising pipe
is connected into the socket of the bath shower mixer (i.e. The end that will require cutting is the bent end). In either instance,
first, measure the length required to fit into the elbow connected to the crosspipe and then cut off waste accordingly. The pipes
should then be fitted and all compression joints should now be tightened.

Please note: So as to prevent possible damage to the curtain track of your Effusio shower rail, Albion suggest the use of
plastic curtain clips only. In our experience metal clips currently available have not been fully tested and as such are not
guaranteed against failure or damage to curtain tracks/Effusio shower rail

ALBION PRESSURE BALANCED SHOWER

The Albion pressure balanced shower valve has been developed to negate the reliability problems encountered with
thermostatic shower valves caused by variations in pressure and water quality.

In addition to its most obvious benefit (not reliant on temperamental thermostatic cartridge), the Albion shower valve has wider
waterways that are not susceptible to blockages like inferior thermostatic cartridges. The valve allows a much greater flow so is
easily able to deliver the required water rate to larger shower heads needed for todays “to the max.” showering experience.

In order to obtain the best benefit/performance from your Albion shower valve, it is important to ensure that the pressure
equalising valve provided is installed as per the manufacturers instructions. The pressure equalising valve can be installed
either vertically or horizontally and any distance before the mixer valve, provided it supplies only ONE outlet (ie. just the shower
valve). It is important that the pressure equalising valve is installed in the correct direction of water flow as indicated by the
arrow on the body of the pressure equalising valve.

Pressure equalising valves provide perfectly balanced water flow pressures even when system conditions are unstable*.
*Suitable for hot and cold water systems operating between 0.3 bar and 10 bar dynamic pressures. This eliminates the risk of
scalding as per TMV2/BS EN 1287,complying with NHS Estates TMV2 requirements as used in Hotels, Sports Clubs Hospitals
etc.

Installation – Exposed Shower

There are three main components for the Albion pressure balanced shower as follows;

1. Pressure equalising valve


2. Valve assembly - including 90 degree wall mount legs
3. Rising pipe and rose - including handshower riser cradle and extendable wall clip

The pressure equalising valve needs to be installed in an accessible area either vertically or horizontally and any distance
before the valve assembly, provided it supplies only the shower. Please note the pressure equalising valve only accepts 15mm
supplies. For full installation information, please refer to the manufacturers instructions.

Installation of the main shower assembly is fairly straight-forward, however consideration should be given to the location of the
valve and overall desired height of the arm/rose before cutting the rising pipe/arm. It is therefore suggested that the various
components should be laid out on the floor “dry fit” to ascertain the standard size of the unit as supplied.

Once the desired location of the valve has been identified, the valve can be connected to the supplies (3/4” BSP female to iron
type). The ¾” BSP supply tails for the valve can be cut as required as they are parallel thread which requires sealing with PTFE
tape/non-acetic acid based thread sealant as appropriate. The riser should be offered up to the valve and then checked for final
height of rose prior to cutting. Once cut to the required length, the riser cradle should be placed over the bottom of the riser pipe
prior to connecting the riser to the valve assembly. The height of the riser cradle can be adjusted as required and once the final
location is arrived at the grubscrew on the riser ring should be gently tightened to secure the cradle in position.

It is suggested that the extendable wall clip is positioned 80-100mm from the top of the rising pipe, although its positioning is not
critical and can therefore be adjusted accordingly.

The handset and flexible hose should be connected to the valve assembly and the handset placed in the riser cradle.
Installation – Concealed Shower – With plate

There are three main components for the Albion pressure balanced shower as follows;

1. Pressure equalising valve


2. Pre-assembled manifold, plate and headworks assembly
3. Shower arm and rose

The pressure equalising valve needs to be installed in an accessible area either vertically or horizontally and any distance
before the valve assemblies, provided it supplies only the shower. Please note the pressure equalising valve only accepts
15mm supplies. For full installation information, please refer to the manufacturers’ instructions.

The pre-assembled manifold, plate and headworks assembly is factory assembled, sealed with an dimethacrylate ester thread
sealant and pressure tested accordingly. Note: The assembly does not require dis-assembling for standard fitting and doing so
would negate guarantee. Should, for any reason the components be dis-assembled the whole unit will require re-sealing and
pressure testing to ensure correct water tightness before installation.

Installation of the main pre-assembled manifold, plate and headworks assembly is fairly straight-forward, however consideration
should be given to the location of the plate and valve assembly and overall desired height of the arm/rose (paying particular
attention to the maximum height of persons using the shower). It is therefore suggested that the various components should be
laid out on the floor “dry fit” to ascertain the standard size of the unit as supplied.

Depending on the type of wall and wall finishing, the pre-assembled manifold, plate and headworks assembly will need to be
connected to the plumbing system and shower arm/flexible hose option (where applicable). On stud/hollow walls the unit can
be rigid pipe connected as part of the stud wall construction/adaptation, or by the use of flexible type hoses that will enable the
final connections to be made outside the stud wall then the manifold passed through an access ‘letterbox’ as appropriate. On
solid walls particular care should be taken in ensuring correct spacing in relation to the plate final finished wall surface and
removal of enough solid wall material to ensure flexible hoses can be routed without ‘kinking’ them.

Installation – Concealed Shower – No plate

There are three main components for the Albion pressure balanced shower as follows;

1. Pressure equalising valve


2. ¾” BSP Valve assemblies
3. Shower arm and rose

The pressure equalising valve needs to be installed in an accessible area either vertically or horizontally and any distance
before the valve assemblies, provided it supplies only the shower. Please note the pressure equalising valve only accepts
15mm supplies. For full installation information, please refer to the manufacturers instructions.

Installation of the main shower assembly is fairly straight-forward, however consideration should be given to the location of the
valve assemblies and overall desired height of the arm/rose (paying particular attention to the maximum height of persons using
the shower). It is therefore suggested that the various components should be laid out on the floor “dry fit” to ascertain the
standard size of the unit as supplied.

Depending upon the type of wall and wall finishing, the ¾” BSP valve assemblies may require additional securing (specifically
required on partition walls), however, on solid walls the valves and their supplies may be simply cemented into the wall. Ensure
that the supply and outlet are connected to the valve following the direction arrow on the body of the valve.

IMPORTANT NOTE: In order to get the correct benefit from your Albion Pressure Balanced Shower, it is essential that the
pressure equalising valve is installed, even when the main system is of a “megaflow/pressure balanced” type installation.
ALBION RECESSED SHOWER ENCLOSURE

In order to gain familiarisation of the components/ensure overall fit, it is suggested to read the instructions fully then carefully
“dry” fit the various components prior to actual installation. This is best carried out flat on a clean floor space taking care to
ensure personnel do not walk over the various components causing damage to them.

Ensure that the surfaces where the enclosure is to be fitted are level. Note: It is critical that the horizontal surface/base is
perfectly level.

Any walls/wall finishes in the desired location for positioning of shower enclosure should be “true”, or that appropriate
adjustment can be made with the enclosure for satisfactory installation.

Albion shower trays utilise two standard 1½ “ BSP short tailed shower wastes beneath the Albion shower waste plate. The short
tailed shower wastes should be connected to the underfloor waste system utilising the required/desired fittings as appropriate to
the installation.

Position tray/base in desired location ensuring access to waste and pipework is possible at a later date should this be required.
Tray can be adhered/bedded as appropriate dependent upon fabric of floor/walls of building.

Note: Left hand hinge, right hand knob version illustrated.

A Wall Channel I Holes in Glass For Hinge


B Glass Clips – Through Hole J Non-Magnetic Shower Seal
C Glass Clips – Blocked End K Knob Set
D Dam L Hole in Glass For Door Knob
E Shower Support Tube M Door Glass
G Magnetic Shower Seal N Fixed Glazing Panel - In-Line Panel
H Hinge P Fixed Glazing Panel - Closing Panel
Recess shower enclosure key
The installation of the actual enclosure should be planned over 2 days as follows;

Day 1. - Fit and seal Wall Channels, glass and framework (following “dry” fit as detailed above).

1. Mark wall for fixing of Wall Channels and drill holes for fixing screws/fixings appropriate to the wall substrate.

2. Apply bead of sealant as per manufacturers instructions to rear of the door side Wall Channel and fix to wall as
appropriate.

3. Apply bead of sealant as per manufacturers instructions to inside of Wall Channel and install Inline glazing panel (with
hinge holes) to wall channel. Ensure glass is positioned at correct depth/angle in Wall Channel to allow watertight seal
at leading edge of door/corner of enclosure. Adjustment is made by sliding the glass in/out of wall channel to achieve
the desired position with regard to tray edge and adjoining panels/seals. Make sure of correct height by using packing
shims provided.

4. Fit knob set and both female halves of hinges to door. Note: Top of door has hinge holes further down from edge to
allow for dam clearance (approximately 5mm).

5. Fit both male halves of hinges to Inline glazing panel.

6. Fit Non-Magnetic Shower seal to appropriate/hinge edge of door, cutting off any excess material as necessary. Note:
No sealant is required,

7. Hang door to Inline glazing panel (hinge holes nearest to edge are the bottom of door). Use packing shims provided to
ensure fixed at correct position and level. Note: Alignment and action of hinges can be adjusted by altering fixing of
hinge on door/Inline panel, or by adjustment of pin in the male half of hinge.

8. Fit Magnetic Shower door glazing seal to appropriate/closing edge of door (allowing enough room for dam to be fitted
later) cutting off any excess material as necessary. Note: No sealant is required,

9. Apply bead of sealant as per manufacturers instructions to rear of the closing panel Wall Channel and fix to wall as
appropriate.

10. Fit Magnetic Shower door glazing seal to appropriate/closing edge of closing panel (allowing enough room for dam to
be fitted later) cutting off any excess material as necessary. Note: No sealant is required,

11. Apply bead of sealant as per manufacturers instructions to inside of closing panel Wall Channel and install closing
panel to wall channel. Ensure glass is positioned at correct depth/angle in Wall Channel to allow watertight seal at
door. Adjustment is made by sliding the glass in/out of wall channel to achieve the desired position with regard to tray
edge and door/seal. Make sure of correct height by using packing shims provided.

12. Install glass clips and shower support tube to fixed panels as appropriate and tighten all allen/grub screws as
necessary. Note: Shower support tube can be cut to desired length. Measure first then cut as appropriate.

13. Apply sealant to bottom of fixed glazing panels (not door) to ensure correct water seal. Note: To ensure a clean edge
to sealant lines it is suggested to firstly place masking tape along either edge of gap to be sealed. Sealant can then be
applied and smoothed/levelled accordingly and then once set, masking tape removed to give a clean joint edge.

Day 2. - Following curing of sealant, install water dam and make final adjustments to door and framework.

1. Make sure previous days sealant has cured and remove packing shims. Note: It may be necessary to apply a little
sealant to ensure areas where shims have been removed are adequately water sealed.

2. Make any necessary adjustments to hinges to ensure correct operation of door and clearance of water dam.

3. Seal the water dam to shower tray/floor at foot of door opening (on the outside of the enclosure) using sealant as per
manufacturers instructions.

Notes:

Allow sealant used during installation to fully cure (approximately 24 hours) prior to running water in shower/cleaning glass.

Should the Stainless Steel wall channel become scratched as a result of installation (e.g. tiling, grouting etc) the hand brushed
finish can simply be re-finished on site by gently abrading the area with suitable grade wet and dry paper / wire wool following
the same direction as the main finish. To complete, apply WD40 with a soft clean cloth.
ALBION DOOR & IN-LINE PANEL/CORNER SHOWER ENCLOSURE
In order to gain familiarisation of the components/ensure overall fit, it is suggested to read the instructions fully then carefully
“dry” fit the various components prior to actual installation. This is best carried out flat on a clean floor space taking care to
ensure personnel do not walk over the various components causing damage to them.

Ensure that the surfaces where the enclosure is to be fitted are level. Note: It is critical that the horizontal surface/base is
perfectly level.

Any walls/wall finishes in the desired location for positioning of shower enclosure should be “true”, or that appropriate
adjustment can be made with the enclosure for satisfactory installation.

Albion shower trays utilise two standard 1½ “ BSP short tailed shower wastes beneath the Albion shower waste plate. The short
tailed shower wastes should be connected to the underfloor waste system utilising the required/desired fittings as appropriate to
the installation.

Position tray/base in desired location ensuring access to waste and pipework is possible at a later date should this be required.
Tray can be adhered/bedded as appropriate dependent upon fabric of floor/walls of building.

Note: Right hand hinge, left hand knob version illustrated

Door and in-line panel shower enclosure key


A Wall Channel J Non-Magnetic Shower Seal
B Glass Clip – Through Hole K Knob Set
C Class Clip – Blocked End L Holes in Glass For Door Knob
D Dam M Door Glass
E Shower Support Tube N Fixed Glazing Panel - In-Line Panel
G Magnetic Shower Seal O Fixed Glazing Panel - Side Panel/Shower Screen
H Hinge Q Shower Support Tube 90 Degree Connector
I Holes in Glass for Hinge
Corner shower enclosure key

A Wall Channel I Holes in Glass for Hinge


B Glass Clip – Through Hole J Non-Magnetic Shower Seal
C Glass Clip – Blocked End K Knob Set
D Dam L Holes in Glass for Door Knob
E Shower Support Tube M Door Glass
G Magnetic Shower Seal N Fixed Glazing Panel - In-Line Panel
H Hinge Q Shower Support Tube 90 Degree Connector

The installation of the actual enclosure should be planned over 2 days as follows;

Day 1. - Fit and seal Wall Channels, glass and framework (following “dry” fit as detailed above).

1. Mark wall for fixing of Wall Channels and drill holes for fixing screws/fixings appropriate to the wall substrate.

2. Apply bead of sealant as per manufacturers instructions to rear of the door side Wall Channel and fix to wall as
appropriate.

3. Apply bead of sealant as per manufacturers instructions to inside of Wall Channel and install Inline glazing panel (with
hinge holes) to wall channel. Ensure glass is positioned at correct depth/angle in Wall Channel to allow watertight seal
at leading edge of door/corner of enclosure. Adjustment is made by sliding the glass in/out of wall channel to achieve
the desired position with regard to tray edge and adjoining panels/seals. Make sure of correct height by using packing
shims provided.

4. Fit knob set and both female halves of hinges to door. Note: Top of door has hinge holes further down from edge to
allow for dam clearance (approximately 5mm).

5. Fit both male halves of hinges to Inline glazing panel.

6. Fit Non-Magnetic Shower seal to appropriate/hinge edge of door, cutting off any excess material as necessary.
Note: No sealant is required.
7. Hang door to Inline glazing panel (hinge holes nearest to edge are the bottom of door). Use packing shims provided to
ensure fixed at correct position and level. Note: Alignment and action of hinges can be adjusted by altering fixing of
hinge on door/Inline panel, or by adjustment of pin in the male half of hinge.

8. Fit Magnetic Shower door glazing seal to appropriate/closing edge of door glass (allowing enough room for dam to be
fitted later) cutting off any excess material as necessary. Note: No sealant is required,

9. If installing a corner entry enclosure, repeat points 1 – 8, then proceed to point 13 as appropriate.

10. Apply bead of sealant as per manufacturers instructions to rear of the side panel Wall Channel and fix to wall as
appropriate.

11. Fit Magnetic Shower door glazing seal to appropriate/closing edge of shower side panel glass (allowing enough room
for dam to be fitted later) cutting off any excess material as necessary. Note: No sealant is required,

12. Apply bead of sealant as per manufacturers instructions to inside of screen side Wall Channel and install side panel to
wall channel. Ensure glass is positioned at correct depth/angle in Wall Channel to allow watertight seal at leading
edge of door/corner of enclosure. Adjustment is made by sliding the glass in/out of wall channel to achieve the desired
position with regard to tray edge and adjoining panels/seals. Make sure of correct height by using packing shims
provided.

13. Install glass clips and shower support tube to fixed panels as appropriate and tighten all allen/grub screws as
necessary. Note: Shower support tube can be cut to desired length. Measure first then cut as appropriate.

14. Apply sealant to bottom of fixed glazing panels (not door) to ensure correct water seal. Note: To ensure a clean edge
to sealant lines it is suggested to firstly place masking tape along either edge of gap to be sealed. Sealant can then be
applied and smoothed/levelled accordingly and then once set, masking tape removed to give a clean joint edge.

Day 2. - Following curing of sealant, install water dam and make final adjustments to door and framework.

1. Make sure previous days sealant has cured and remove packing shims. Note: It may be necessary to apply a little
sealant to ensure areas where shims have been removed are adequately water sealed.

2. Make any necessary adjustments to hinges to ensure correct operation of door(s) and clearance of water dam.

3. Seal the water dam to shower tray/floor at foot of door opening (on the outside of the enclosure) using sealant as per
manufacturers instructions.

Notes:

Allow sealant used during installation to fully cure (approximately 24 hours) prior to running water in shower/cleaning glass.

Should the Stainless Steel wall channel become scratched as a result of installation (e.g. tiling, grouting etc) the hand brushed
finish can simply be re-finished on site by gently abrading the area with suitable grade wet and dry paper / wire wool following
the same direction as the main finish. To complete, apply WD40 with a soft clean cloth.
ALBION SHOWER SCREEN/WALK-IN SIDE ENTRY SCREENS

In order to gain familiarisation of the components/ensure overall fit, it is suggested to read the instructions fully then carefully
“dry” fit the various components prior to actual installation. This is best carried out flat on a clean floor space taking care to
ensure personnel do not walk over the various components causing damage to them.

Ensure that the surfaces where the enclosure is to be fitted are level. Note: It is critical that the horizontal surface/base is
perfectly level.

Any walls/wall finishes in the desired location for positioning of shower enclosure should be “true”, or that appropriate
adjustment can be made with the enclosure for satisfactory installation.

Albion shower trays utilise two standard 1½ “ BSP short tailed shower wastes beneath the Albion shower waste plate. The short
tailed shower wastes should be connected to the underfloor waste system utilising the required/desired fittings as appropriate to
the installation.

Position tray/base in desired location ensuring access to waste and pipework is possible at a later date should this be required.
Tray can be adhered/bedded as appropriate dependent upon fabric of floor/walls of building.

A Wall Channel E Shower Support Tube


C Glass Clip – Blocked End F Wall Flange
D Dam O Fixed Glazing Panel – Side Panel/Shower Screen
Shower screen key
Walk-in side entry screen key
A Wall Channel F Wall Flange
C Glass Clip – Blocked End O Fixed Glazing Panel – Side Panel/Shower Screen
D Dam Q Shower Support Tube 90 Degree Connector
E Shower Support Tube

The installation of the actual screen/enclosure should be planned over 2 days as follows;

Day 1. - Fit and seal Wall Channels, glass and framework.

1. Mark wall for fixing of Wall Channel and drill holes for fixing screws and fixings appropriate to the wall substrate.

2. Apply bead of sealant as per manufacturers instructions to rear of Wall Channel and fix to wall as appropriate.

3. Apply bead of sealant as per manufacturers instructions to inside of Wall Channel and install screen to wall channel
ensuring glass is positioned at correct depth/angle in Wall Channel. Adjustment is made by sliding the glass in/out of
wall channel to achieve the desired position with regard to tray edge and adjoining panels/seals. Ensure fixed at
correct position by using packing shims provided.

Note: If installing a shower screen with an end panel, repeat points 1 – 3, then proceed to point 4 as appropriate.

4. For shower screen

Install glass clips and shower support tube and fix to wall with wall flange as appropriate and tighten all allen headed
grub screws as necessary. Note: Shower support tube can be cut to desired length. Measure first then cut as
appropriate.

For shower screen with end panel

Install glass clips, shower support tube and 90 degree connector as appropriate and tighten all allen headed grub
screws as necessary. Note: Shower support tube can be cut to desired length. Measure first then cut as appropriate.

5. Apply sealant to bottom of screen/enclosure to ensure correct water seal. Note: To ensure a clean edge to sealant
lines it is suggested to firstly place masking tape along either edge of gap to be sealed. Sealant can then be applied to
the gap, and then the surface smoothed and levelled accordingly. Once set, the masking tape can then be removed to
give a clean joint edge.
Day 2. - Following the curing of sealant, install the water dam and make final adjustments.

1. Make sure previous days sealant has cured and remove packing shims. Note: It may be necessary to apply a little
sealant to ensure areas where shims have been removed are adequately water sealed.

2. For shower screen

Measure water dam to fit full width of enclosure (on the outside of the enclosure) and cut off excess as required.

For shower screen with end panel

Install water dam to shower tray/floor (on the outside of the enclosure)

3. Seal the water dam to shower tray/floor using the sealant as per manufacturers instructions.

Notes:

Allow sealant used during installation to fully cure (approximately 24 hours) prior to running water in shower/cleaning glass.

Should the Stainless Steel wall channel become scratched as a result of installation (e.g. tiling, grouting etc) the hand brushed
finish can simply be re-finished on site by gently abrading the area with suitable grade wet and dry paper / wire wool following
the same direction as the main finish. To complete, apply WD40 with a soft clean cloth.

ALBION RECESSED SHOWER SCREEN

In order to gain familiarisation of the components/ensure overall fit, it is suggested to read the instructions fully then carefully
“dry” fit the various components prior to actual installation. This is best carried out flat on a clean floor space taking care to
ensure personnel do not walk over the various components causing damage to them.

Ensure that the surfaces where the enclosure is to be fitted are level. Note: It is critical that the horizontal surface/base is
perfectly level.

Any walls/wall finishes in the desired location for positioning of shower enclosure should be “true”, or that appropriate
adjustment can be made with the enclosure for satisfactory installation.

Albion shower trays utilise two standard 1½ “ BSP short tailed shower wastes beneath the Albion shower waste plate. The short
tailed shower wastes should be connected to the underfloor waste system utilising the required/desired fittings as appropriate to
the installation.

Position tray/base in desired location ensuring access to waste and pipework is possible at a later date should this be required.
Tray can be adhered/bedded as appropriate dependent upon fabric of floor/walls of building.
Recessed shower screen key

A Wall Channel E Shower Support Tube


B Glass Clip – Through Hole F Wall Flange
C Glass Clip – Blocked End O Fixed Glazing Panel/Screen
D Dam

The installation of the actual screen/enclosure should be planned over 2 days as follows;

Day 1. - Fit and seal Wall Channels, glass and framework.

1. Mark wall for fixing of Wall Channel and drill holes for fixing screws and fixings appropriate to the wall substrate.

2. Apply bead of sealant as per manufacturers instructions to rear of Wall Channel and fix to wall as appropriate.

3. Apply bead of sealant as per manufacturers instructions to inside of Wall Channel and install screen to wall channel
ensuring glass is positioned at correct depth/angle in Wall Channel. Adjustment is made by sliding the glass in/out of
wall channel to achieve the desired position with regard to tray edge and adjoining panels/seals. Ensure fixed at
correct position by using packing shims provided.

4. Install glass clips and shower support tube and fix to wall with wall flange as appropriate and tighten all allen headed
grub screws as necessary. Note: Shower support tube can be cut to desired length. Measure first then cut as
appropriate.

5. Apply sealant to bottom of screen/enclosure to ensure correct water seal. Note: To ensure a clean edge to sealant
lines it is suggested to firstly place masking tape along either edge of gap to be sealed. Sealant can then be applied to
the gap, and then the surface smoothed and levelled accordingly. Once set, the masking tape can then be removed to
give a clean joint edge.

Day 2. - Following the curing of sealant, install the water dam and make final adjustments.

1. Make sure previous days sealant has cured and remove packing shims. Note: It may be necessary to apply a little
sealant to ensure areas where shims have been removed are adequately water sealed.

2. Seal the water dam to shower tray/floor (on the outside of the enclosure) using the sealant as per manufacturers
instructions.

Notes:

Allow sealant used during installation to fully cure (approximately 24 hours) prior to running water in shower/cleaning glass.

Should the Stainless Steel wall channel become scratched as a result of installation (e.g. tiling, grouting etc) the hand brushed
finish can simply be re-finished on site by gently abrading the area with suitable grade wet and dry paper / wire wool following
the same direction as the main finish. To complete, apply WD40 with a soft clean cloth.
ALBION TRIDENT BATH SHOWER SCREEN

In order to gain familiarisation of the components/ensure overall fit, it is suggested to read the instructions fully then carefully
“dry” fit the various components prior to actual installation. This is best carried out flat on a clean floor space taking care to
ensure personnel do not walk over the various components causing damage to them.

Ensure that the surfaces where the bath and screen are to be fitted are level. Note: It is critical that the horizontal surface/base
is perfectly level.

Any walls/wall finishes in the desired location for positioning of the bath and screen should be “true”, or that appropriate
adjustment can be made with the screen for satisfactory installation.

Trident bath shower screen key

A Wall Channel E Shower Support Tube


B Glass Clip – Through Hole F Wall Flange
C Glass Clip – Blocked End O Fixed Glazing Panel/Screen
X Bath Glass Rim Clip

The installation of the actual screen/enclosure should be planned over 2 days as follows;

Day 1. - Fit and seal Wall Channel, glass and framework.

1. Mark wall for fixing of Wall Channel and drill holes for fixing screws and fixings appropriate to the wall substrate.

2. Apply bead of sealant as per manufacturers instructions to rear of Wall Channel and fix to wall as appropriate.

3. Apply bead of sealant as per manufacturers instructions to inside of Wall Channel and install screen to wall channel
ensuring glass is positioned at correct depth/angle in Wall Channel. Adjustment is made by sliding the glass in/out of
wall channel to achieve the desired position with regard to tray edge and adjoining panels/seals. Ensure fixed at
correct position by using packing shims provided.

4. Install glass clips and shower support tube and fix to wall with wall flange as appropriate and tighten all allen headed
grub screws as necessary. Note: Shower support tube can be cut to desired length. Measure first then cut as
appropriate.

5. Apply sealant to bottom of screen/enclosure to ensure correct water seal. Note: To ensure a clean edge to sealant
lines it is suggested to firstly place masking tape along either edge of gap to be sealed. Sealant can then be applied to
the gap, and then the surface smoothed and levelled accordingly. Once set, the masking tape can then be removed to
give a clean joint edge.

Day 2. - Make sure previous days sealant has cured and remove packing shims.

Note: It may be necessary to apply a little sealant to ensure areas where shims have been removed are adequately
water sealed.

Notes:

Allow sealant used during installation to fully cure (approximately 24 hours) prior to running water in shower/cleaning glass.

Should the Stainless Steel wall channel become scratched as a result of installation (e.g. tiling, grouting etc) the hand brushed
finish can simply be re-finished on site by gently abrading the area with suitable grade wet and dry paper / wire wool following
the same direction as the main finish. To complete, apply WD40 with a soft clean cloth.
MISTLEY WALL BASIN

The Mistley Wall Basin comprises five main items; wall bracket, worksurface top, bowl, waste fitting and taps. Installation is as
follows:

1 Choose a suitable location for the unit and ensure that solid fixing points are available. This may require some
additional preparatory work or the use of specialised fixings not provided by Albion.
.
2 Fit the three piece wall bracket together using the nuts & set screws provided.

3 Position the bracket unit in the chosen position against the wall and following adjustment for the desired level, mark
position of fixing points through the metal brackets. Drill holes for fixing points and secure unit using appropriate
fixings .

4 Connect waste and taps as necessary, allowing all joints to cure before testing correct system operation as
appropriate.

5 Use clear non-acetic acid based sealant to affix and seal worksurface in chosen position on wall bracket. Follow
sealant manufacturer’s guidelines for use. Position bowl on worksurface and secure with waste unit which is passed
through hole in base of bowl and worksurface. Tighten securing nut from underside of worksurface. (sealant may also
be used for additional fixing of bowl to worksurface but it is not necessary)

MISTLEY HIGH LEVEL CISTERN & TOILET

Appropriate sealant should be used between the inside of the cistern tank and rubber washers of underside of dump valve to
ensure seal as per standard toilet cistern/syphon connections.

The Mistley High Level Toilet comprises three main items; pan, downpipe (and fixings) and cistern (including all internal
workings and fittings).

As the high level cistern utilises a modern plastic syphon designed for adaptation for many cisterns, minor adjustment/tailoring is
required to be carried out by the installer prior to fitting of components. Firstly, in order to ensure the Lloyd cup fully covers the
plastic cap nut and back nut, it may be necessary to cut 10-12mm off the bottom of the threaded syphon tail. Ensure that the
cut end is made flat and remove all traces of burr to ensure an adequate seal. The length of the ‘C’ link may also require to be
shortened by approximately 10-15mm to prevent the lever shaft “clonking” on the underside of the cistern lid. This is best
carried out using a pair of pliers to create a “double bend” in the lever shaft end of the ‘C’ link.

If too forceful a flush is experienced from the syphon, the restrictor disc may require to be fitted to the flushpipe inlet of the pan
as appropriate.

INTERNAL OVERFLOW

The Mistley High Level Cistern is equipped with an internal overflow.

Overflows are not designed to evacuate excess water caused by a major failure of an inlet valve but are there to provide an
early warning. As such, they are officially known in the water regulations as ‘warning pipes’. However, for the purposes of this
notice, the popular description of ‘overflow’ is used.

An internal overflow is achieved by installing a syphon shorter than that previously supplied in an external overflow cistern.
Once water reaches the spill-over level of the syphon (approximately 25mm below top of syphon), it will run through the down
leg (warning pipe) of the syphon, into the WC pan where it will be visible and warn the owner of the need to quickly service or
replace the inlet valve. Failure to attend the fault may result in water spilling onto the floor.

When the internal overflow is required, it is necessary to seal the external overflow (warning pipe) hole with the plug supplied in
the cistern. A non-acetic acid based sealant should be applied as appropriate.

It is the installer’s responsibility to check that all valves and waterway seals are correctly and firmly fastened and to
ensure compatibility with the system design.

NOTE: As the cistern body is cast alloy, only non-acetic acid based sealants etc should be used. Albion also suggest
that “in-cistern” type toilet cleaning blocks are not used as a mixture of chemicals may cause damage to the lining of
the cistern. As a metal item with cast iron brackets, bonding of the cistern body/brackets to pipework should also be
carried out as appropriate.

CARE OF YOUR ‘BURNISHED’ CISTERN

Do not use metal polishes or abrasive cleaners on burnished finishes. Clean only with a soft damp cloth. If your cistern has
been fitted with a bronze name plaque, this may be polished with proprietary metal polishes. However, do ensure that the
polish does not go onto the burnished finish on the cistern.
ETHOS LOW LEVEL TOILET INTERNAL OVERFLOW SYPHON
Appropriate sealant should be used between the inside of the cistern ceramic/tank and rubber washers of underside of dump
valve and inlet valve to ensure seal as per standard toilet cistern/syphon connections.

To ensure the correct operation of internal overflow of Ethos pneumatic syphons, it is essential that the following instructions are
followed.

If the overflow mechanism protrudes higher than required, it will simply require cutting with a hacksaw, to ensure it operates at
the correct level.

• With six litres flushing capacity, the water level should be approximately 150mm from the bottom (inside) of the cistern.

• Once the required six litre flush capacity has been set, the internal overflow must operate at a water level of no less
than 20mm beneath any hole in the cistern (eg screw holes or inlet/outlet holes). For ease, this level is approximately
185mm from the bottom (inside) of the cistern.

• To ensure that the overflow operates, hold open the inlet valve to allow water to continually enter the cistern. If
adjusted correctly, when the water comes level with the top of the plastic pipe, it should immediately evacuate down
the pipe and into the pan.

Following the adjustment above, the toilet should be flushed and the cistern allowed to refill a number of times, checking the
correct operation of the valve and overflow.

TUBULAR BASIN STAND


The Tubular Basin Stand is supplied flat packed for self assembly, this allows for use with different products. The self assembly
nature of the product allows for on-site adaptation to cater for specific customer requirements such as uneven floors/walls etc.
The length of tubular pipe can be simply cut with hacksaw or pipecutter making sure any burrs are removed accordingly. Before
cutting any pipe, please double check measurements required for the particular application.

For Ethos basins, the flat cap on top of the ball foot legs should be positioned to sit inside the curved recess underneath the
basin. The central cross bar should therefore be cut accordingly to ensure symmetry of the legs.

Installation of the basin stand/worksurface/basin is as follows:

1 Assemble the tubular stand as per the parts list below, tightening all joints with allen key/screwdriver as appropriate.

Please note: The following is for guidance only. Adjustments for overall height of worksurface/basin and front crossbar
are made by cutting of pipework/re-positioning of knuckle joints and flanges as appropriate.

ITEMS IN KIT QTY

Legs with ball foot – 720mm 2


Flat Cap – For leg tops (Ethos basin ONLY) 2
Central cross bar - 540mm long for single stand, 1000mm long for double stand 1
Side support bars – 500mm 2
Surface supports (for double basins only) 2
4 way angle ball joints (for connecting the legs to the cross bar) 2
Wall flanges 2
Surface flanges (for worktops only) 2

2 Choose a suitable location for the unit and ensure that solid fixing points are available. This may require additional
preparatory work or the use of specialised fixings not provided by Albion Baths.

3 Position tubular stand in the chosen position against the wall and following adjustment for the desired level, mark the
position of the fixing points through the metal wall flanges.

Where a granite worksurface or china basin is to be utilised, this will also require an additional batten/fixing appropriate
to the size/weight of basin and nature of location of fixing. This should be carried out after first ensuring correct level of
the tubular stand and then marking further fixing points as appropriate. A batten should be positioned/additional fixings
made as accordingly.

Where appropriate, a non-acetic acid based sealant should be applied to the flanges on top of the tubular legs, to affix
and seal the worksurface/basin in the chosen position on the base unit. Follow the sealant manufacturer’s guidelines
for use.

4 Connect waste and taps as necessary, allowing all joints to cure before testing correct system operation as
appropriate.
TUSCANY BASIN

The Tuscany Basin comprises five main items; ‘table’ base, worksurface top, bowl, waste fitting and taps. Installation is as
follows:

1 Choose a suitable location for the unit and ensure that solid fixing points are available. This may require some
additional preparatory work or the use of specialised fixings not provided by Albion.

2 Position the base unit in the chosen position against the wall and following adjustment for the desired level, fix
with suitable fixings.

3 Connect waste and taps as necessary, allowing all joints to cure before testing correct system operation as
appropriate.

4 Use clear non-acetic acid based sealant to affix and seal worksurface in chosen position on base unit. Follow sealant
manufacturer’s guidelines for use. Position bowl on worksurface and secure with waste unit which is passed through
hole in base of bowl and worksurface. Tighten securing nut from underside of worksurface. (sealant may also be
used for additional fixing of bowl to worksurface but it is not necessary)

WOODEN VANITY/CHINAWARE BASIN COMBINATIONS

Wooden vanity/chinaware basin combinations comprise four main items; basin/bowl, wooden vanity unit, waste fitting and taps.
Installation is as follows:

1 Choose a suitable location for the unit and ensure that solid fixing points are available. This may require some
additional preparatory work or the use of specialised fixings not provided by Albion.
.
2 Position the wooden vanity and basin in the chosen position against the wall and following adjustment for the desired
level, mark position of fixing points through the basin fixing holes. Drill holes for fixing points and secure unit using
appropriate fixings.

3 Use a proprietary sealant/adhesive (eg. Stixall or clear non-acetic acid based sealant) to affix the basin to the wooden
vanity. Follow sealant manufacturer’s guidelines for use.

4 Connect waste and taps as necessary, allowing all joints to cure before testing correct system operation as
appropriate.

TOWEL RAIL/RADIATORS
Installation of Albion towel rails and radiators should be carried out in the same manner as for standard radiators. Bleed valves
(supplied) and stop/thermostatic valves (optional extras) will require sealing and fitting as appropriate.

Care should be taken to protect household furnishings (eg carpets and polished surfaces) when moving/installing towel
rails/radiators to prevent damage/staining from water residue that may still be present inside the radiator from the testing
procedure.

PTFE tape and standard sealant can be used to seal valves etc., however, Albion suggest the use of Sikaflex type material
applied to the thread of valves which should be allowed to set for a minimum of 12 hours before priming of the system. Please
note: non-acetic acid based sealant should only be used with nickel plated fittings.

If electric only (non-central heating) towel rails/radiators require to be re-filled, this should be carried out using 9 parts de-ionised
water to 1 part antifreeze. An air gap of 20-25mm should be allowed for expansion within the closed system.

It is the installer’s responsibility to check that all valves and waterway seals are correctly and firmly fastened and to
ensure compatibility with the system design.

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