Future Strategies

Sneaker Materials Forecast

S/S 24
Sneaker material innovations for S/S 24 will be driven by
protective designs, cloud-like cushioning and removable
elements for easier recycling, as well as fuzzy and
exaggerated natural textures

Yvonne Kostiak
06.09.22 · 9 minutes

Nike
Introduction
Uncertainty will continue to be a dominant force in 2024 due to ongoing economic,
political and environmental crises. As a result, consumers will be seeking products
that can assuage uneasiness and bring optimism.
Our S/S 24 Sneaker Materials Forecast aligns with WGSN's macro trends, which are
informed by our STEPIC framework, analysing trends in society, technology, the
environment, politics, industry and creativity. This ensures key materials and finishes
will reflect the future drivers, innovations and consumer behaviours that will shape
2024.
The Everything Net will see physical and digital materials envisioned as
interchangeable via colour-shifting metallics and digitally haptic, sensory surfaces.

By contrast, a stronger focus on restraint and practicality will see the rise of
perennial and sustainable natural materials, connecting to lifestyle choices around
the pursuit of serenity and balance. Materials made from natural or bio-based
alternatives will also align with reductive and regenerative mindsets.

The Caring Economy is also set to become more influential, as governments,

businesses and communities recognise the benefits of nurturing in society. Materials
that deliver comfort, or are imbued with a more playful, handcrafted tactility, will
reflect a more care-taking mindset, evoking a sense of fun and affection.

Juan Vegas

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 Serene futurism
The concep t: as we continue to move
seamlessly between digital and physical
worlds, digital design will remain influential,
pushing sensorial surfaces to the fore in the
metaverse and real life.
Sur face and mater ials : phygital textures in
this direction have an otherworldly quality,
appearing to be fluid, glossy, iridescent, semi-
transparent or glowing. Dawn Bendick's glass
artworks inspire smooth and tactile semi-
@zebra3dfashion @observatorystudios Robert Quach
opaque surfaces in electric brights. Create a
bioluminescent glow inspired by nature. For
forward-thinking concepts, use the sneaker to
capture or even generate electricity through
embedding piezoelectric materials into the
sole.
How to imp lement: use coloured semi-opaque
crystal gum on outsoles or wraparound
features. Incorporate next-gen illumination for
night visibility. Continue to use iridescent
finishes around the midsole.
Relevant for: running, lifestyle, urban active,
ath-luxe
Nike @bru_slee @damontighe

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 Deconstruct and reconstruct
The concep t: growing demand for designs that
can either be easily repaired or recycled easily
will see a rising focus on more considered
materials and modularity. For sneakers,
subtraction becomes more relevant (such as
removing glues and bonded layers to make
recycling easier). Alternatively, to prolong a
sneaker's lifespan, allow consumers to update
their own shoes through modular elements
such as straps, laces or fully removable socks
Nike Tanya Aguiñiga Robert Quach or outsoles.
Innovation: Nike's ISPA Link Axis is designed to
be taken apart, and is made from recycled
polyester and recycled TPU. Influential
sneaker concept designer @kah__bane
combines sneakers to create new styles.
How to imp lement: use upcycled and
downcycled waste in materials, or add 'do it
your way' customisations such as chunky laces.
Use mono-materials for individual components
to aid circularity.
Relevant for: all sneakers

@heloise_bouteille @kah__bane @miguel.pena.kk

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 Cushioned comfort
The concep t: oversized outsoles will remain
relevant due, thanks to the continuing influence
of outdoor trail running, comfort and playful
digital designs. Taking care of ourselves and
others will be a key consumer driver for 2024 –
this story offers an evolution of our Wellness
Soles trend from S/S 23.
Innovation: On's new Cloudstratus shoe
features a double-stack of CloudTec® and
Helion™ superfoam, delivering cushioning and
@joey_khamis_design @davdpadilla No Name
dynamic take-off. French brand No Name
collaborated with digital concept designer Finn
Rush-Taylor Studio to create an outsole
inspired by bubblegum.
How to imp lement: for leisure and after-sport,
implement soothing and playful outsoles using
materials such as algae-based EVA. For
responsive comfort for sport, invest in a
layered footbed with a carbon fibre plate for
maximum efficiency.
Relevant for: running, trail running, lifestyle,
after-sport

On Running Hoka One One A-Cold-Wall x Converse

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 Super-natural forms
The concep t: in this direction, surface textures
and ergonomic forms take direct inspiration
from nature in exaggerated ways. At their
heart, these materials emulate and respect
nature, similar to biomimicry.
Sur face and mater ials : textile surfaces mimic
animal skins such as crocodile via embossed
synthetics, or replicate the look of raked
sands, inspired by En Iwamura's playful
ceramic pieces. Moulded and 3D-printed forms
Crocs Dennis Johann Mueller @construct10061
have irregular and organic shapes, perfect for
multi-directional grip. Salehe Bembury
reimagines the classic Croc by merging three
of his signature fingerprint motifs together.
How to imp lement: investigate sustainable
biofabricated materials, such as algae-enriched
bio-based soles, and also keep your focus on
responsible circular solutions for the end of
life of your materials.
Relevant for: lifestyle, outdoors, recovery, all-
day active

@nathanvanhook @eniwamura Charlie Constantinou

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 Exoskeletal protection
The concep t: extreme futures call for
extreme protection. Sci-fi prototyping in
consumer tech is starting to filter into sneaker
aesthetics, aligning with the Designing
Protopias theme from our Future Innovations
2024 forecast. Removable elements add a
modular element, allowing the wearer to
customise shoes for added protection or
aesthetics.
Innovation: tech-wear brand Machina crafted a
Designboom Machina x Nike Ilija Nikolic
3D-printed exoskeleton piece for the Nike Air
Max 1 Wabi-Sabi sneaker. The designers used a
sustainable method that combined
micromotors from old computers, toys and
PLA, a plastic substitute made from fermented
plant starch, which enables the wearer to feel
the airflow around the shoe and their feet as
they walk.
How to imp lement: add customisable external
elements such as ACRONYM's removable TPU
heel clips, or ergonomic forms made from
recycled PET or a biofabricated alternative.
Relevant for: lifestyle, all-day active, ath-luxe
@miguel.pena.kk @lining.official @livestockcanada

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 Prepare-wear
The concep t: the anticipation of continued
disruptions in the environment, economics and
politics sees a need for designs that are
durable and reliable. Hard-wearing materials
evolve from A/W 23/24's Survival
Weatherproofing story to have increased
longevity.
Innovation: Canadian trail running footwear
brand Norda has created the world’s first
seamless trail running shoe made with
Norda Run @wyndelete @goretexstudio
lightweight and super-strong Bio-Based
Dyneema®. Running brand Inov-8 uses
graphene in its rubber outsole and foam
midsole, delivering enhanced durability.
Lubrizol has created a circular 100% TPU
prototype shoe, made of ESTANE® ECO TPU,
which is lightweight yet hard-wearing.
How to imp lement: use extra-durable
materials to extend a shoe's lifespan. Use
exaggerated outsoles and features such as
wide scratch rubber foxing on lifestyle
sneakers.
Relevant for: trail running, outdoors, lifestyle
ROA Hiking Inov-8 Lubrizol

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 Fuzzy nature
The concep t: natural textures are amplified in
tactile grains, wraps and trims, inspired by
textures found in nature such as moss, lichen
and stone.
Sur face and mater ials : this direction evolves
from the Outdoors Nubuck story from our A/W
23/24 forecast, moving towards textures like
'hairy' suede, as seen in Oakley's collaboration
with Brain Dead. Textiles are also used to
create these textures: Reebok's custom
Oakley Nike x Cactus Plant Flea Market @barry_wark
Premier Pump Paris incorporates lace panels
hand-dyed with Cuban coffee by Toby
Kammerer, and nat-2™ uses a felted material
made from recycled textiles. Nike's
collaboration with Cactus Plant Flea Market
sees the Nike Dunk Low encased in a texture
reminiscent of mud.
How to imp lement: embrace variations in
texture and colour, particularly for natural and
responsibly sourced leather and recycled
materials. Experiment with unusual, naturally
dyed textile uppers for a tactile appearance.
Relevant for: outdoors, lifestyle, all-day active
@nat2footwear @davdpadilla Reebok

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 Textured wovens
The concep t: woven textile uppers take on
tactile and irregular patterns and textures
through crinkles, slubby weaves, print and
dyeing.
Sur face and mater ials : both casual and
technical wovens evolve to have more texture
and added interest through print and feel-good
colours. Take inspiration from or collaborate
with creative textile dyer Bethany Voak, who
uses flower petals to create multi-dimensional
ASICS Nike @lois.davies.art
effects.
How to imp lement: for casual styles, use
responsibly sourced cotton or other natural
fibres such as bast fibres for woven uppers.
Hemp is a more sustainable alternative to
cotton and has already been making its way into
active apparel, thanks to its natural
performance properties. For more technical
styles, use multi-recyclable polyester or bio-
based nylon. Add texture with a crumpled
finish, and ripstop for additional strength and a
matte or smooth finish.
Relevant for: casual, outdoors, lifestyle
ROA Hiking @bethanyvoak New Balance

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 Textured knit
The concep t: having dominated sleek and
futuristic styles in sport and fashion sneakers,
knit materials evolve to become more tactile,
playful and organic.
Sur face and mater ials : knit stitches such as
jacquards, diamond mesh and honeycombs add
3D texture and depth. Byborre is famed for its
innovative 3D knit techniques, and a
collaboration with Diemme brings its fabric
innovation into sneakers. The shoe, which is
APL Byborre x Diemme ROA Hiking
designed for outdoors pursuits, uses highly
durable and abrasion-resistant polyester.
Outdoor footwear specialist Roa plays with a
literal take on nature by incorporating moss-
like clusters on a knit upper.
How to imp lement: knit uppers to size,
reducing waste from offcuts. Use recycled and
preferably recyclable materials such as
circular polyester. For a more casual, natural
look, use responsibly sourced cotton or
cellulosics. Layer over a water-resistant lining
such as Sympatex's membrane.
Relevant for: outdoors, lifestyle, running, all-
Chloé Ecco Leather Nike
day active

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 Open mesh structures
The concep t: mesh evolves with exaggerated,
open structures that deliver lightness and
breathability. The mesh becomes a key
element of the shoe's aesthetics in more
minimalist styles.
Sur face and mater ials : styles such as the
Yeezy 500 use a foam-backed oval knitted
mesh, bringing a nostalgic 90s aesthetic to the
shoe. Acne Studios uses a round, open-net
construction, and Under Armour layers a
ASICS Acne Studios Vasi Ganea
diamond pattern over pops of colour.
How to imp lement: use open mesh as a single
layer on light, casual styles, or layered over
pops of colour. For sportier styles, use
recycled and preferably recyclable materials
such as circular polyester.
Relevant for: running, training, all-day active

Yeezy Ecco Leather @miguel.pena.kk

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1 234
Action points
Set increasingly ambitious
targets for zero-waste materials
Meet the demand for material
efficiency, frugality and sustainability
with durable zero-waste materials that
can be reused, supporting circular
processes. Create mono-materials that
are easier to recycle, making use of
untapped or material waste-streams
from your industry and adjacent
industries. Ensure product finishes
don't hamper onward recyclability
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Transition into natural materials
that are regenerative and
renewable
Regenerative material sourcing will
start to gain traction by 2024, as
industries focus on protecting the
environment and reaching climate-
neutral goals. Switch out resource-
intensive processes, build in safe
biodegradability, and source certified,
natural and renewable ingredients with
a low carbon footprint
View digital and physical
sneaker materials that activate
the senses
As the digital and physical worlds
become more interchangeable,
develop immersive virtual and physical
materials and experiences that activate
all the senses. This could range from
haptic textures to lenticular structures
and transformative, shifting colours.
Invest long-term into research and
development that drives digital and
technical acceleration, marrying the
digital-driven with the human-made
Enhance material engagement
with playful visuals and and
mood-lifting tactility
Develop or use materials that bring a
sense of fun, discovery and stimulation
to sneakers. Transform footwear with
experimental, tactile surfaces that defy
conventions, and push innovation in
colour, surface, texture and form,
taking inspiration from nature and
expressive, customised craft
The WGSN macro forecast 2024
The timeline for WGSN's suite of 2024 trend reports, moving from business strategy to
consumer and product strategy.

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WGSN’s forecast reports are created by our global team of experts
Mater ials forecas ting team Contr ibutors
Helen Palmer, Head of Materials and Textiles APAC
Gemma Riberti, Head of Interiors Alison Ho, Consumer Researcher
Reiko Morrison, Head of CMF, Consumer Tech Lupi Yao, Trend Director, WGSN China
Katie Raath, Senior Strategist, Packaging Chihiro Kakemoto, Japanese Localisation Lead
Charlotte Casey, Senior Strategist, Knit Madoka Okuda-Marshall, Japanese Localisation Editor
Nicole Ajimal, Strategist, Textiles Afr ica
Victoria Bulmer, Strategist, Knit Raeesa Brey, Researcher
Jane Collins, Senior Strategist, Footwear and Accessories Amer icas
Charlotte Browning, Strategist, Active Sofia Martellini, Strategist, Youth and Womenswear
Clare Coulson, Strategist, Colour Aus tralia and New Zealand
Yianni Giovanoglou, Client Services Specialist
 

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