Automotive lubricating system service

Introduction

Engine Lubrication Requirements

It would be hard to design any machine that puts greater demands on its lubrication system
than an automobile engine. Many engine parts, even those away from the direct heat of
combustion, operate at temperatures of many hundreds of degrees centigrade. Also, many
rotating and reciprocating parts operate at close clearances with surface speeds of several
hundred meters per minute. These conditions place severe demands on the lubrication system.

Types of Friction

Whenever sliding movement takes place between two solid bodies / e.g. the piston and the
cylinder /, friction occurs. The more powerful the pressure between the bodies and the
rougher their contact surfaces, the higher the friction.

If we greatly magnify the surface of a body, we can see that, despite precision machining,
there are still raised and lowered areas / known as peaks and valleys / which cause a certain
amount of surface roughness.

There are three types of sliding friction. These are

A. Dry friction
B. Semi-fluid friction and
C. Fluid friction

Dry Friction

In the case of dry friction between solid bodies, any firm contact between sliding components
leads to high temperatures occurring where the surfaces are raised; the affected areas attempt
to fuse together / friction welding effect /, but are immediately torn apart, figure 2.1. This
constantly repeated process is generally known as “ seizure ”and leads to a high rate of wear
and overheating.

Figure 2.1 Dry Friction

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Some lairs of materials run well together, with only minimum friction, and others are more or
less incompatible and result in very severe friction. This is the reason why plain bearings for
steel shafts are made from brass, bronze, gunmetal or white metal. Cast iron bearings also
possess good friction characteristics. To avoid the effects of dry friction, adequate lubrication
must be provided.

Semi - Fluid Friction / Mixed Friction

Semi-fluid friction occurs where lubricant is present but cannot form a continuous film, for
instance as movement starts or in the case of oscillating or reciprocating movements, figure
2.2.

Figure 2.2 Semi - Fluid Friction / Mixed Friction

Fluid Friction

Fluid friction is the lowest level of friction encountered. Since the oil film, which adheres,
for example, to the metal of a bearing slides across the oil film on the shaft, and the only
friction that then occurs is actually within the liquid, and is very low figure 2.3. Wear and
heat build- up in such bearings are very slight. The continuous layer of oil is referred to as the
oil film.

Figure 2.3 Fluid Frictions

Components of Lubrication System

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The main components of a typical lubricating system, figure 2.4.

Figure 2.4 Components Of Lubrication System

Oil pan or sump:

The oil pan is attached to the crankcase or block. It serves as the reservoir for the engine’s oil.
It is designed to hold the amount of oil that is needed to lubricate the engine when it is
running, plus a reserve. The oil pan helps to cool the oil through its contact with the outside
air.

Oil pump pickup

The oil pump pickup is a line from the oil pump to the oil stored in the oil pan. It usually
contains a filter screen, which is submerged in the oil at all times. The screen serves to keep
large particles from reaching the oil pump. This screen should be cleaned anytime the oil pan
is removed.

Engine oil passages or galleries

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From the filter, the oil flows in to the engine galleries. These galleries consist of
interconnecting passages that have been drilled completely through the engine block during
manufacturing. The outside ends of the passage are blocked off so the oil can be routed
through these galleries to various parts of the engine. The crankshaft also contains oil
passages / oil ways / to route oil from the main bearings to the connecting rod bearing
surfaces.

Engine Bearings lubrication

Since oil is delivered to the engine bearings by an oil gallery, an oil hole is machined in the
bearing for alignment with the oil gallery in the engine block. Many engine bearings are
manufacture with an oil groove to help distribute the oil over the surface of the bearing. Oil
grooving the main bearing also aids the flow of oil to the connecting bearings in the engine.
Once the oil has been used by the bearing, it flows out of the oil clearance space and is
replenished with a fresh supply of oil under pressure from the oil pump. This oil is then
splashed or thrown off the bearing surface by the spinning motion of the crankshaft. The
splashed oil then lubricates other parts of the engine, such as the cylinder walls and pistons.

Oil Cooler

Oil coolers are used on certain heavy-duty gasoline engines and on many diesel engines. An
oil cooler is a device that helps the oil cool. More specifically an oil cooler is a heat
exchanger through which both oil and coolant flow, the two being separated by tubes or
baffles of some type. This enables heat to be transferred from the oil to the coolant because
the oil is at a higher temperature.

Types of lubrication

i. Pressure / forced / feed system

In the pressure feed system, oil is forced by the oil pump through oil lines and drilled
passageways. The oil passes through the drilled passageways under pressure. It supplies the
necessary lubrication for the crankshaft bearings, the connecting - rod bearings, camshaft
bearings, valve lifters, valve push rods, and rocker studs. Oil passing through the oil line is
directed to the timing gears and the valve rocker shafts in order to lubricate these parts. The
cylinder walls are lubricated by oil thrown off the connecting rods and piston pin bores. Some
engines have oil split holes in the connecting rods. These line up with drilled holes in the
crankshaft journal during each revolution. They throw or spit a stream of oil in to the cylinder
walls.

To enable the oil pass from the drilled passageways in the engine block to the rotating
crankshaft, the main bearings must have oil feed holes and grooves. This line-up with the
drilled holes in the crankshaft each time the crankshaft rotates. The same is true in the case of
he connecting rod bearings and the drilled passageways in the connecting rod bearings.
Therefore, each time the drilled holes in the crankshaft and the connecting rod line-up with
the holes in the bearings, The pressure forces the oil through these drilled passages in to the
crankshaft and connecting rod, lubricating their respective bearings.

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 After the oil has been forced to the area requiring lubrication, it falls back dawn into the oil
pan ready to be picked up again and returned through the system. As the oil falls, it is
frequently splashed by the moving parts onto some other part requiring lubrication.
ii. Combination of splash and force-feed lubrication
In this system oil is delivered to some moving parts by means of splash and to the other parts
through oil passages. The oil pump delivers oil under pressure directly to the main bearings
through oil passages in the cylinder block. This oil keeps the main bearings supplied with a
constant flow of oil. The oil circulates through the main bearings and drives back in to the
crankcase. Oil is also supplied under pressure to the camshaft bearings. The connecting rods,
as well as the pistons, piston pins, and cylinder walls are lubricated by a splash from the
effect of the dippers splashing in to the oil troughs under them.
iii. Mist lubrication system
The most common form of mist lubrication is that which is used to lubricate a simple two-
stroke engine. This is known as the “ petrol ” lubrication method. In this case / system / petrol
and a proportion of oil are mixed in the fuel tank. The mixture is transferred from the
carburettor together with air in to the crankcase and discharged through the transferred ports
to the combustion chamber in the intake stroke. This method of lubrication is dependent on
the fuel evaporating from the mixture leaving behind sufficient oil mist to form a film over
the working surfaces of components such as the crankshaft bearings and the lower section of
the cylinder wall. In the upper section of the engine oil must be deposited on the cylinder
walls in the path of the moving piston. However, a considerable amount of oil will be burnt in
the combustion chamber with a possible reduction in lubrication.

Replacing engine oil

Oil Classifications

Lubricating oils are rated by various agencies. These ratings are used so that the correct oil
can be selected for the correct application.

1. Society of automotive engineers / SAE / ratings

SAE ratings are given in terms of the viscosity or thickness of the oil. SAE ratings are
determined for different temperatures. More specifically crankcase oils are come within a
specified range of viscosity at a particular temperature and are given an SAE number. A
low SAE number denotes an oil of low viscosity, and vice versa. In other words, an oil
with SAE rating of 5 would have a very low viscosity and would be suitable for use in cold
climates or during winter weather. On the other hand, an oil with SAE ratings of 50 would
have a high viscosity at low temperatures and, therefore, would be more suitable for
summer use.

Note that the winter grade oils are followed by letter W. For example SAE 20W oil will
perform at low temperatures and SAE 20 oil will perform in the summer.

2. Service rating for engine oil:

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For many years the American Petroleum Institute (API) provided a crankcase oil
classification system that related to engine operating conditions. However, with the
increasing demands placed on crankcase oil, the API, in cooperation with SAE, American
Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM), and various car, truck, and engine
manufacturers published (in 1970) a new crankcase oil classification system.

This system, based on a simple letter designation, describes precise engine operating
conditions as well as the necessary oil performance properties in regard to engine design
and construction.

A. SA (Old Classification ML):

An oil used for gasoline and diesel engine service, under such mild conditions that the
protection afforded by compounded oils is not required.

B. SB (Old Classification MM):

This oil is designed for medium – duty gasoline engine service. It provides only antiscuff
capability and resistance to oil oxidation and bearing corrosion.

C. SC (Old Classification MS):

An oil designed for gasoline engine service. It gives more protection against high – and
low – temperature engine deposit, wear, rust, and corrosion than an oil of the SC
classification.

D. SE (No Old Classification):

An oil used for modern gasoline engines. It is designed to provide more protection against
oil oxidation deposit, high – temperature engine deposit, rust, corrosion than oils of the SD
or SC classifications.

E. CA (Old Classification DG):

An oil used for light duty diesel engine service to provide protection against bearing
corrosion and from high – temperature deposits in normally aspirated diesel engines.

F. CB (Old Classification DM):

An oil used for moderate – duty diesel engine service. It is designed to provide necessary
protection from bearing corrosion and from high – temperature deposits in normally
aspirated diesel engines with high sulphur fuels.

G. CC (Old Classification DM):

An oil used for moderate – to – serve – duty diesel and gasoline engine service. Used in
trucks, industrial and construction equipment, and farm tractors. It provides protection
from high – temperature deposits in lightly supercharged diesel engines and also from rust,
corrosion, and low – temperature deposits in gasoline engines.

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 H. CD (Old Classification DS (Series 3 Oil):

An oil used for severe – duty diesel engine service. It provides protection against bearing
corrosion and form high – temperature deposits in supercharged engines when fuels of a
wide quality range are used.

Function Of Lubricating Oil

While lubricating oil is normally considered to be a substance that reduces wear and friction
between moving surfaces, it performs a number of other important function in the engine.
Among them it: -

1. Minimises wear

Without adequate lubrication, bearings would wear rapidly and the heat generated
from friction would cause bearing failure, so that the crankshaft and other parts would
be damaged. Insufficient lubrication on the cylinder walls would cause rapid wear and
scoring of the cylinders, pistons and rings. Therefore, to minimise wear, a correctly
operating engine-lubricating system supplies all parts with adequate oil.

2. Minimises heat

The second main function of the lubricating oil is to help cool the engine. Travelling
through passages in the crankshaft, engine block, and valve rocker arm assembly, for
example, the oil absorbs heat. The oil absorbs a lot of heat as it coats the cylinder
walls and moves around the piston oil control rings to the inside of each piston. The
oil absorbs heat as it flows through the clearance at the crankshaft main bearings,
connecting rod bearings, and piston pin camshaft bushings.

Wherever the oil travels on its journey through the engine, it picks up heat. The oil
returns to the bottom of the crankcase / into the oil pan / when it completes its
journey. Heat from the oil pan is dissipated into the surrounding air. The oil thus acts
as a cooling agent.
However, many engines that do “ heavy ” work / particularly diesel engines / are
equipped with oil coolers. This is used to transfer heat from the engine oil to the
cooling system to reduce the oil temperature.

3. Minimises power loss

The type of friction encountered in the engine is normally fluid friction, that is,
friction between moving layers of oil. This is quite low compared to the friction
between unlubricated surfaces. With oil being supplied to the various parts of the
engine by the lubricating system, the moving parts are separated by a film of oil,
which reduces friction and minimises power loss within the engine.

4. Forms a seal

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 The fourth job performed by engine lubricating oil is that to help seal pressure within
the combustion chamber of each cylinder. Even when the piston, piston rings, and
cylinder walls are in perfect condition, they need help in holding the high pressures
developed during the piston’s compression and power strokes.
A film of oil on the cylinder wall functions within the cylinder in two ways. It protects
the cylinder wall and piston rings from excessive wear, and it blocks the escape of
gases from the combustion chamber. It accomplishes the later task by filling the very
small irregularities between the rings and the cylinder walls.

Note
For an engine in good condition, with a proper oil film on the cylinder walls and
piston rings, the escape of gases / blow-by / is almost zero.

5. Absorbs shock

There is always some clearance between the bearings and journals and between other
working parts. When the loading on a part is suddenly increased, the oil acts as a
cushion by retaining as film of oil between adjacent metal surfaces. In doing so, the
lubricating oil reduces engine noise as well as wear.

6. Acts as a cleaning agent

The six big job performed by the engine lubricating oil is cleaning. As the oil
circulates through the passages in the engine that direct it to the bearings and other
parts, it washes these passages. The oil also flushes metal particles, by product of
combustion and other foreign matter from bearing and journal surfaces. . A screen
at the inlet side of the pump help to catch the smaller foreign materials, preventing
them from travelling back into the engine lubricating system.

Oil changing

Checking Oil Level

If the engine is using the bayonet type of oil level gauge (the dip stick) the following
procedure can be used to check the oil level: -
1. Withdraw the dipstick from the crankcase
2. Then wipe clean the dipstick
3. Reinsert the dipstick again into the crankcase
4. And again withdraw it so that the oil level on the gauge can be seen
5. Check that the reading is between the minimum and maximum

Note: -
Before checking the oil level make sure that the car is on level surface and wait for a
few moments for the oil to drain back, if the engine has just been shut off.

Checking the Cleanness of Used Engine Oil

1. First withdraw the dipstick

2. Then wipe clean it

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 3. Then reinsert it again
4. Finally put one droplets on the paper by withdrawing the dipstick

After that see the appearance of the droplet. If the center of the droplet is somehow yellow it
means that the oil is clean if not it is dirty and requires oil change.
Carmakers specify oil change mileage intervals that range from 2,000 to 7,500 miles. Time
intervals range from 3 to 12 months. Generally, diesel and turbocharged engines require
more frequent oil changes than normally aspirated gasoline engines do. Carmakers usually
recommended that the filter be changed at every other oil change, but some specify that diesel
and turbocharged engine filters should be changed at every oil change.

Carmakers also provide “severe-service” recommendations that are about half the “normal”
service intervals. Most severe – service recommendations call for changing the filter at each
oil change. Many owners don’t realize it, but their cars qualify for severe-service
maintenance if they are used for:

 Prolonged stop-and – go driving

 Frequent short trips of 10 miles or less
 Trailer towing
 Regular operation in climatic extremes of hot or cold weather or dusty conditions.

Check the carmaker’s recommendations and the owner’s use of the vehicle to determine when
to change oil. Many owners prefer to change the oil and filter more often than recommended.
The oil and filter definitely should be changed if dirty or contaminated with fuel or coolant.
Before changing the oil, warm the engine to operating temperature so that sludge and dirt are
suspended in the hot oil and will be carried out of the engine with it.

Draining oil from the system

1. Raise the vehicle properly and place support stands as required.

2. Place the drain oil container under the engine so that drain oil will flow into it.

Warning:
Hot oil may burn or irritate your skin. Do not let it splash while draining.

3. Using a socket or box wrench, loosen and remove the drain plug from the oil pan.
4. While the oil is draining, examine the drain plug and gasket for stripped threads, cracks,
and other damage. Replace a defective plug or gasket.
5. Also, inspect the oil pan gasket area, the front of the crankshaft behind the harmonic
balancer, the rear of the oil pan, and the transmission or bell housing for signs of motor oil
or transmission oil leaks.
6. Allow 5 or 10 minutes for oil to drain from the engine. Then wipe the drain hole area of
the pan clean and check the pan for damaged threads. Check the plug fit by screwing it in
about halfway by hand. It should turn freely without binding, but it should not wobble or
slip when you pull it.
7. If the oil pan threads are stripped, you often can save them by installing an oversize
replacement plug, with hardened, self-tapping threads. Install such a plug with a wrench
until the gasket seats on the pan. Then remove it and clean any metal slivers from the plug
and pan.

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8. After all oil has drained from the engine; install the drain plug by hand until the gasket
seats on the pan.
9. Move the drain oil container under the engine.

Oil filter

During engine operation, carbon particles, dust and small metal particles become mixed with
the lubricating oil. The oil filter keeps the oil clean by removing these impurities, which
would otherwise find their way through the oil passages to the bearings and other surfaces. If
these impurities get their way to the bearings and engine cylinder walls, they will cause a
premature wear.
There are two general types of filters:
a. Full-flow filters and
b. By-pass filters

A. Full-flow filter

In this system, figure 2.5 (b), all of the oil must pass through the oil filter before entering the
engine. But if dirt collects in the filter element, the filter will become clogged and it becomes
difficult to force the oil through. Due to this problem the lubricating system could be starved
for the oil and the engine badly damaged if the filter were to become fully clogged. To,
prevent this, the full- flow filter assembly contains a spring loaded bypass valve.

Figure 2.5 Types of oil filter

The bypass /relief / valve senses a pressure build up that is created as the filter element
becomes clogged. When the pressure becomes high enough to overcome the spring force, the
bypass valve opens. Some of the oil can then bypass the filter element and go directly to the
engine.
Note

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Full-flow filters operate at a higher pressure than bypass filters, and attention should be paid
to renewing seals and applying correct torque to the bolt or filter during servicing, so that oil
leaks do not occur.

B. Bypass filter

This type is fitted between the main gallery and the sump, so that part of the oil delivered by
the pump flows straight through this filter and returns to the sump, figure 2.4 (a).
Approximately 90% 0f the oil is pumped to the engine. Only about 10% is sent in to the oil
filter to be cleaned. If this filter becomes plugged, no oil can be filtered. Oil will still be
pressurised, however, and sent into the engine.

The filter element is much finer than the full flow type so that it will remove much smaller
particles but will offer greater resistance to flow. Also since the filter element is very fine it
does not allow all the oil entering to it. So due to this fact the majority of the oil passes
directly to the main oil gallery with out filtered.

Since blockage of this valve does not restrict the flow of oil to the bearings, there is no need
for a bypass valve.

Because the element of this type of filter can be designed to remove very small particles of
dirt, the rate of filtration is slow. Due to this fact at long period of time pure lubricating oil is
maintained.

Removing the oil filter from the engine

1. Most engines have spin-on disposable filters, accessible from under the vehicle. Use
a filter wrench, to loosen the filter. Then unscrew it by hand and let oil drain into the
container.
2. Some filters are more accessible from above the engine. To change one of these,
lower the vehicle after draining the oil.
3. If the filter is installed vertically with the closed end upward (Mazda rotary and
Chrysler 6 – cylinder engines), drive a hole into the end of the filter with a punch
before draining oil from the engine. This allows old oil to drain easily from the filter
before you remove it.

Installing oil filter on the engine

1. If the engine has an auxiliary by pass oil filter (some diesels and turbo engines),
replace the cartridge and clean the filter housing.
2. Lubricate the rubber gasket on the new filter with oil or light grease, and clean the
filter-mounting base on the engine.
3. Screw the filter onto the mounting nipple by hand until the gasket contacts the
mounting base. Continue tightening the filter by hand or with a filter wrench another
2/3 to 1 ¼ turns. Follow the filter maker’s directions. Do not overtighten.
4. Move the drain oil container back under the oil pan and remove the drain plug. Let
any remaining oil in the pan drain into the container. Install the drain plug by hand
until the gasket seats on the pan. Then use a socket or box wrench to tighten the plug
until the gasket is just slightly compressed. Do not overtighten.

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Remove the drain oil container from under the vehicle and lower the vehicle.

Refilling the system with fresh oil

1. Fill the crankcase with the quantity, service classification, and viscosity of oil specified by
the manufacturer. Check oil level on the dipstick after filling the engine. The dipstick
will show a higher than normal level because the filter and oil galleries are not yet filled.
2. Start the engine, run it at idle, and check for oil pressure. If pressure does not rise on the
gauge or if the warning lamp does not go out in 10 seconds or less, stop the engine and
check for leaks.
3. If the engine has normal oil pressure, let it run for 2 or 3 minutes and check around the
filter and drain plug for leaks.
4. Stop the engine and retract the hoist arms and lifting pads.
5. After 2 or 3 minutes, check the oil level on the dipstick. Add more oil if needed to bring
the level to the full or safe mark. Then drive the car off the hoist.

Oil Pump Service

Oil pump

The oil pump is the heart of the lubricating system. Just as the heart in a human body
circulates blood through veins, an engine’s oil pump circulates oil through passages in the
engine.
The purpose of the Oil pump is to supply oil to the various moving parts in the engine. To
make sure the parts are lubricated, an adequate amount of oil must be delivered to the parts.
To get the oil to move into the engine and into the various parts, the oil must be pressurised.
Therefore, oil pumps are designed to move a certain volume of oil and pressure it to a certain
amount. The ability of an oil pump to deliver more than the required volume of oil is a safety
measure to ensure lubrication of vital parts as the engine warms up.
Too much oil pressure is seldom a problem. Too little oil pressure can cause poor oil
circulation. Poor circulation can result in poor lubrication of some vital parts.

An engine’s oil pressure is also determined by the viscosity of the oil and the temperature
of the oil. A high- viscosity oil has more flow resistance than a low- viscosity oil. As already
mentioned, viscosity decreases as the temperature increases. For this reason, oil pressure is
higher in cold engine than it is when the engine reaches its normal operating temperature.

Types of Oil Pumps

Three designs of oil pumps are used in lubricating system:

1. Gear pump
2. Rotor pump.
3. Gear-and-Crescent pump

Most engines have gear type or rotor type oil pumps. However, some late-model engines have
gear-and-crescent oil pumps. All are positive displacement pumps. That is, a fixed volume of
oil passes through the pump with each revolution of its shaft. This is because the gears or
rotors form a perfect mechanical seal as they mesh.

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Driving mechanism

Oil pumps can be driven by the camshaft through the use of an intermediate shaft connected
to the distributor or by gears or by chain, with the drive being taken from the camshaft or
directly from the crankshaft.

A. Gear pump

A gear-type pump has two spur gears in a closed body, figure 2.6. One gear is driven by a
shaft; the other gear meshes with the first as an idler.

Figure 2.6 Gear pump

Operation

As the gears rotate, they create a low pressure at the pump inlet and draw oil through the pick
up. The gears rotate away from the inlet, and the space between each gear tooth carries oil
around the outside of the pump housing. As the teeth mesh near the pump outlet, they develop
pressure on the oil and force it through the outlet.

Note:

The oil pump is positioned at the lowest possible place inside the oil container in order to
keep the suction height as less as possible /increasing pump effectively/. This guarantees a
fast supply of oil to all spots of lubrication when cold starting the engine. The two meshing
gears can have straight or helical / spiral / shaped gear teeth.
The pressure that can be developed by this type of oil pump depends on:
1. Viscosity of the oil
2. The speed of operation and

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 3. The accuracy of working clearances.
The output volume per revolution depends on
1. The length and
2. Depth of the gears.

B. Rotor pump

A rotor-type pump has an inner and an outer rotor that look like a pair of internal and external
gears figure 2.7. The inner rotor is off centre and driven by the crankshaft or camshaft. On
one side of the pump body, the inner and outer rotor meshes closely. On the other side, they
have more clearance.

Figure 2.7 Rotor pump

Operation

When the rotors turn and the rotor’s lobe unmesh, the volume at the suction side will increase
so that the oil is drawn in to the space. As the rotors continue to turn, the oil becomes trapped
between the lobes, cover plate, and top of the pump cavity. Then it is forced out of the pump
body by meshing of the lobes since the meshing of the lobes result in decrement of volume.
The amount and rate of oil forced out of the pump depends on the diameter and the thickness
of the pump’s rotors.

Note

The rotor type moves a greater volume of oil than a gear type because the space in the open
lobe of the outer rotor is greater than the space between the teeth of the gears of a gear-type
pump.

C. Crescent pump: -

The crescent pump has external toothed gear meshed with an internal toothed gear. Some of
the teethes the gears are in mesh, the others are separated by a crescent shaped part of the
pump housing. The suction and the discharge cavities are also separated by a crescent -
shaped body, figure 2.8.

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The pump is mounted on the front of the cylinder block so that the pump is driven directly
from the crankshaft.

Figure 2.8 Crescent pump

Operation

The outer wheel runs in the pump housing, and is eccentrically located interrelation to the
inner one. When the pump is operating, oil is taken in through the inlet port and conveyed
past the upper and lower sides of this crescent - shaped body in the tooth gaps and finally
carried around between the gears and the crescent to the outlet port.

Advantage
When compared to the other gear type with the same dimension, the crescent type can provide
more volume of oil, more compact, installation space required is small, and easy to
manufacture.

4. Pressure relief valve

The pressure built up by the oil pump increases with the speed of engine. The system includes
a relief valve, figure 2.9. It relieves any excess pressure at high engine speeds. The valve
consists of a ball and a spring, a plunger and spring or a disk and spring. It is mounted in the
housing on the oil outlet side of the oil pump. When the pressure produced by the pump is
greater than the pressure of the oil relief valve spring, this greater pressure causes the ball or
plunger to move. It compresses the spring and opens the port. The opening of the port permits
the oil to flow back to the oil pan. This reduces the pressure in the system.

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Figure 2.9 Pressure relief valve

Removing oil pump

1. Remove the oil pan following the proper procedure

2. Remove the oil pump inlet tube and screen assembly.
3. Remove the oil pump attaching bolts.
4. Lower the oil pump, gasket, and intermediate drive shaft from the crankcase.

Disassembling Oil Pump

Depending upon the type of oil pump being disassembled:

1. Remove the oil pump driven gear or the outer rotor from the pump.
2. On oil pumps that have the oil pump and distributor drive gear attached to the oil
pump shaft, drive the pin out of the oil pump drive gear, and press the gear of the shaft
3. Remove the pump shaft from the body

Inspecting parts of oil pump

A. Checking gear type pump components

The pump components may be checked for correct clearance and wear using feeler gauge,
Figure 2.6.

1. Measure the clearance between the gear tips and the pump body by inserting feeler
gauge blades between them. This clearance should not exceed 0.2 mm
2. Measure the backlash between the meshing gears by inserting feeler gauge blades
between them. This should be between 0.1 and 0.2mm
3. Measure the end- float between the end -plate and the gears by placing a straightedge
across the open face of the pump casing, then check the clearance between this and the
gear faces using feeler gauge blades. This clearance should not exceed 0.1mm.

B. Checking Crescent Type Pump Components

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The pump components may be checked for correct clearance and wear using feeler gauge,
Figure 2.8.
1. Measure the clearance between the gear tooth tips and the crescent wall for each gear.
These should not exceed 0.3 mm when both gears are in position with the pump body.
2. Measure the backlash between the meshing gears. This should be between 0.1 and 0.2
mm.
3. Measure the clearance between the outer gear and the body. This should not exceed
0.2 mm.
4. Measure the gear end- float clearance by placing a straightedge across the open face of
the pump casing and slipping feeler gauge blades between it and the gear side faces.
This clearance should not exceed 0.2mm.

C. Checking Rotor Type Pump Components

The pump components may be checked for correct clearance and wear using feeler gauges;
Figure, 2.7.
1. Measure the clearance between the rotor lobe tip and the segment. This should be
checked in two different positions and should not exceed. 0.2 mm.
2. Measure the clearance between the outer rotor and the body by inserting feeler gauge
blades between them. This should not exceed 0.25 mm
3. Measure the end- float clearance between the end plate and the rotors by placing a
straightedge across the open face of the pump casing and inserting feeler gauge blades
between it and the rotors, as shown in figure 2.7 for the crescent type pump. This
clearance should not exceed 0.2 mm.

Note

Manufacturers specify the exact clearances for their vehicles. Refer to these figures for
correct clearances.

Assembling oil pump

The assembling process is mostly the reverse of disassembly. Use new gasket during
assembly.

Installing oil pump

1. To install, prime the oil pump by filling either the inlet or outlet port with engine oil.
2. Rotate the pump shaft to distribute the oil within the pump body.
3. Position the intermediate drive shaft into the distributor socket (If present). With the
shaft firmly seated in the socket, the stop on the shaft should contact the roof of the
crankcase.
4. Remove the shaft and position the stop as necessary.
5. Insert the intermediate drive shaft into the oil pump. Using a new gasket, install the
pump and shaft as an assembly. Do not attempt to force the pump into the position if
it will not seat readily. If necessary, rotate the intermediate drive shaft into a new
position so that it will mesh with the distributor shaft.
6. Torque the oil pump attaching bolts to the specified torque.

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 7. Clean and install the inlet tube and screen assembly.
8. Install the oil pan following the proper procedure.

Testing Oil Pressure

Oil pressure that is too high or too low can increase engine wear and lead to major damage. It
may not seem that high oil pressure can damage an engine, but it can. High pressure can
erode soft bearing metal and lead to crankshaft or camshaft failure. It also can increase
leakage around seals and even force plugs out of oil galleries and rocker arm shafts. High
pressure can cause leakage around the filter or cause the filter to burst.

Low pressure can be indicated by:

 Knocking or rumbling noises from the crankshaft bearings.

 A low – pressure reading on the instrument panel gauge or a warning lamp that flickers or
stays on.
 Excessive oil consumption.

High pressure can be indicated by:

 Leakage around seals, external oil gallery plugs, and valve cover or pan gaskets.
 A badly expanded, cracked, or leaking oil filter.
 Excessive oil consumption

If you suspect oil pressure that is out of limits, test it as follows:

1. Locate the engine-sending unit for the instrument panel gauge or warning lamp. It is
screwed into the main oil gallery from the outside of the engine block. It also may be on
or near the filter adapter.
2. Start and run the engine to normal operating temperature. Carmaker’s oil pressure
specifications are for a completely warm engine. Pressure will be high when the oil is
cold.

Caution:
Most sending units require special sockets for removal and installation. Do not use a
12-point socket or you may damage the sender.

3. Disconnect the wire from the sending unit and use a suitable wrench to remove the unit.
4. Look up the carmaker’s pressure specifications and select a pressure gauge with a mid-
scale range that includes the highest specification. Usually, a zero to 75 – or 100 psi (500
– or 700 – kPa) gauge is satisfactory. Manufacturers give pressure specifications at a
specified rpm or at idle and medium cruising speed.
5. Using a length of high – pressure hose or copper tubing and suitable fittings, connect the
gauge to the sending unit opening in the engine
6. Start the engine and run it at slow idle for about 1 minute. Compare the gauge reading to
specifications.
7. Slowly accelerate the engine to 1,500 to 2,000 rpm and let the speed and pressure
stabilize. Compare the gauge reading to specifications.

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8. Stop the engine, remove the pressure gauge and reinstall and reconnect the oil pressure-
sending unit.

Removing and Replacing Oil Pan

Remove and replace an oil pan as follows:

1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist as you would for an oil change.

2. Drain the oil. If the oil is fresh, you can save it for reuse.
3. Following the carmaker’s procedures, loosen or remove any of the following parts to
provide clearance for oil pan removal.
a. Motor mounts
b. Exhaust crossover pipe
c. Steering linkage
d. Front-wheel-drive axles or transaxle parts
e. Fuel, brake fluid, and oil cooler lines
4. Remove the oil pan screws. The gasket will hold the pan to the engine as you remove
the screws.
5. Tap the pan gently with a rubber hammer to loosen it. You may have to lower the pan 2
or 3 inches and reach inside to remove the oil pump pickup before removing the pan
completely. Check the carmaker’s procedures.
6. Remove the oil pan.
7. Using a scraper or wire brush, remove old gasket material and sealant from the pan
flange and lower surface of the engine.
8. Wash the pan and lower surface of the engine with solvent. Wipe them dry with a clean
cloth.
9. Inspect the pan for cracks, dents, and other damage. If necessary, remove dents and
straighten the pan flange around the screw holes with a ball peen hammer. Remove
nicks with a small file.

10. Remove the oil pump pickup screen, clean it in solvent, blow it dry with compressed air,
and reinstall it.
11. If you are installing a rubber or cork gasket, follow the maker’s directions and these
guidelines:
a. Apply a thin, uniform coat of gasket cement to the pan flange and end surfaces.
Allow it to dry until tacky.
b. Place the gasket on the flange and press it into place.
c. Install end seals on the pan or on the lower surface of the engine (main bearing
caps), as directed.
12. If you are installing the pan with aerobic (RTV) sealant, follow the maker’s directions
and these guidelines:
a. Clean and dry the pan flange and the lower engine surface.
b. Apply a uniform bead of sealant to either the pan flange or engine surface, or
both, as directed.
13. Install the pan (and oil pickup, if removed) on the engine and tighten the screws evenly
in the specified sequence to the specified torque. Do not overtighten.
14. Reinstall parts removed in step 3 and lower the vehicle.
15. Refill the engine with oil and check the oil level.
16. Start the engine and check for oil pressure and leaks.

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 Lubrication System Troubleshooting Chart
Condition Possible Cause
External Oil  Fuel pump gasket broken or
Leaks improperly seated
 Cylinder head cover sealant
broken or improperly seated
 Oil filler cap leaking or
missing
 Oil filter gasket broken or
improperly seated
 Oil pan side gasket broken,
improperly seated
 Oil pan rear oil seal broken
or improperly seated
 or distortion
 Timing case cover oil seal
broken or improperly seated
 Excessive oil pressure
because of restricted PCV
valve
 Oil pan drain plug loose or
has stripped threads
 Rear oil gallery plug loose
 and tighten
 Distributor base gasket
damaged
Excessive Oil  Oil level too high
Consumption  Oil with wrong viscosity
being used
 PCV valve stuck closed
 Valve stem oil deflectors/ or
seals/ are damaged, missing,
or incorrect type
 Valve stems or valve guides
worn
 Poorly fitted or missing
valve cover
 Piston rings broken or
missing
 Scuffed piston
 Incorrect piston ring gap
 Piston rings sticking or
excessively loose in grooves
 Compression rings installed
upside down
Correction
 Replace gasket
 Replace sealant; inspect cylinder head
cover and the block surface for
distortion and cracks
 Replace cap
 Replace oil filter
 Replace gasket or inspect oil pan flange
for distortion
 Replace seal; inspect oil pan rear seal
flange, rear main bearing cap for cracks
 Replace seal
 Replace PCV valve
 Repair as necessary and tighten
 Use appropriate sealant on gallery plug
 Replace gasket
 Drain oil to specified level
 Replace with specified oil
 Replace PCV valve
 Replace valve stem oil deflector
 Measure stem to guide clearance and
repair as necessary
 Replace valve cover
 Replace broken or missing rings
 Replace piston
 Measure ring gap, repair as necessary
 Measure ring side clearance, repair as
necessary
 Repair as necessary
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 Condition Possible Cause Correction
 Cylinder walls worn, scored  Repair as necessary
or glazed
 Piston ring gaps not properly  Repair as necessary
staggered
 Excessive main or  Measure bearing clearance, repair as
connecting rod bearing necessary
clearance
No Oil Pressure  Low oil level  Add oil to correct level
 Oil pressure gauge  Inspect and replace as necessary
inaccurate
 Oil pump malfunction  Repair or replace oil pump
 Oil pressure relief valve  Remove and inspect oil pressure relief
sticking valve assembly
 Oil passages on pressure side  Inspect oil passages for obstruction
of pump obstructed
 Oil pickup screen or tube  Inspect oil pickup for obstruction
obstructed
 Loose oil inlet tube 
Tighten or seal inlet tube
High Oil Pressure  Improper oil viscosity 
Drain and refill crankcase with correct
viscosity oil
 Oil pressure gauge or  Inspect and replace as necessary
sending unit inaccurate
 Oil pressure relief valve  Remove and inspect oil pressure relief
sticking closed valve assembly
Low Oil Pressure  Low oil level  Add oil to the correct level
 In accurate gauge, warning  Inspect and replace as necessary
lamp or sending unit
 Oil excessively thin because  Drain and refill crankcase with
of dilution, poor quality, or recommended oil
improper grade
 Excessive oil temperature  Correct cause of overheating engine
 Oil pressure relief spring  Remove and inspect oil pressure relief
weak or sticking valve assembly
 Oil inlet tube and screen  Remove and inspect oil inlet tube and
assembly has restriction or screen assembly
air leak
 Excessive oil pump  Inspect and replace as necessary
clearance  Measure bearing clearance, repair as
 Excessive main, rod, or cam necessary
shaft bearing clearance

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