Single Welt:

Fold back seam allowance on pocket

facings

Interface pocket area on WRONG SIDE

of fashion fabric

Fold back dart(s) and sew, starting from

the point of the dart

Sew pocket facing to pocket bag,

topstitching along folded edge which is
positioned toward the bottom of the
pocket bag. Sew along top edge of the
facing as well
 Attach un-faced pocket bag to pants
back, wrong sides together

Pocket bag 

Sew welt to pants back, right sides

together. (I handstitched the center line
to hold in in place before I sewed the
two lines of machine stitching

Sew another line of stitching on pocket

welt below the original stitch line. Be
sure to stop and start exactly in line
with the previous row of stitching.

Cut ONLY welt open between the two

stitching lines, all the way through the
welt
Cut pocket bag and pants back in the
center of the stitch lines.

At the corners, cut at an angle right up

to the stitching line, folding welt out of
the way so you only cut the pocket and
the pants body.
Turn lower welt to pocket bag side

Press the lower welt seam open,

continuing the fold formed by the seam
to the end of the welt on each side

Turn the upper welt toward the pocket

bag side

Press open upper welt seam from the

back side
 Dart tip 

Press upper welt back so that the seam

does not show from the right side of the
trousers.

Press open lower welt seam from the

right side

Lower welt
Fold and press the lower welt, making
sure it is even all the way across

Lower welt
Stitch in the ditch of the welt, folding
other layers out of the way. Start and
end at the edge of the welt “window.”

Stitch triangles at the edge of the welt,

stitching as close to the edge as
possible.

Trim pocket facing and welt clear of the

pocket bag stitch line (if necessary)

Stitch lower welt to pocket bag (from

pocket bag side) ??
 Sew the pocket bag closed on both sides
with a narrow seam allowance

Welt and facing

Press open pocket bag seam allowances

to prepare for French seam

Turn the pocket bag right side out

Use a point turner to turn out the

corners of the pocket bag
Press the pocket bag with the right side
out

Stitch through the pocket bag at the

edge of the welt window on both sides,
folding the pants out of the way. This
secures something??

Stitch through the pocket bag above the

pocket, folding the pants body out of
the way
Stitch around the pocket bag (this time
with a wider seam allowance) to finish
the French seams

Press pocket from the right side

Double Welt:
Fust interfacing to WRONG side

Press dart(s) in center

Sew dart(s)

Overlock one long side of pocket facing

Sew pocket facing to pocket bag along
bottom overlocked edge

Baste welt to pants, right sides together,

catching pocket bag underneath (not
shown)
Sew welt to pants.

Sew second line of stitching parallel to

first, being sure to start and stop in line
with the first line of stitching

Cut welt down center all the way

through the welt

Cut through pocket bag and pants fabric

in the center of the stitched lines from
reverse side, starting and ending ½ inch
from corners.
Cut into corners all the way to the
stitching line, forming little triangles

Bring lower welt to reverse side through

pocket opening

Finger press lower welt seam open

Bring upper welt to reverse side through

pocket opening
Finger press upper welt seam open

Press lower welt seam open, placing a

piece of cardstock underneath

Press lower welt seam down

Press upper welt seam open, placing a

piece of cardstock underneath

Press upper welt seam up

Press upper welt along fold line (half of
pocket opening measurement), being
sure to measure that it is equal all the
way across

Press lower welt along fold line, being

sure to measure that it is equal all the
way across

Push triangles in corner of pocket to

wrong side

Give a light press from right side of

pocket
Sew down corner triangles to welt,
stitch as close to the pocket opening as
possible

Topstitch around sides and bottom of

pocket, starting in center on one side.
Be sure there is a crisp fold on bottom
welt

Edgestitch bottom of bottom welt to

pocket bag, from wrong side for some
reason? Keep other layers out of the
way
Sew pocket bag edges together inside
out with pocket facing on top

Fold pocket bag seam allowances

toward side with pocket facing. Press

Turn pocket bag right side out

Turn corners out

Press pocket bag seam allowance from
outside, being sure that the pocket
facing is lying flat in the seam allowance
on the inside

Stitch pocket bag with a slightly wider

seam allowance, completing the French
seam. When you get to the bottom,
pivot and sew the bottom as well even
though there is no seam there?

Topstitch around pocket sides and top,

being sure there is a crisp fold in the top
welt

Bar tack pocket sides