CRABGRASS CONTROL

  
Dr. Leonard Perry, Extension Professor
University of Vermont
 
           
 Crabgrass is one of the most common weeds found in lawns, poor soils, and open areas.  If using a
herbicide for control, proper timing is critical.  Use of the correct cultural practices may avoid the need
for any herbicides.
           
Crabgrass is appropriately named, as it often grows low to the ground, spreading outwards resembling a
crab.  In unmown areas it may get taller.  Being “annual” means that it grows each year from
germinating seeds, completes its life cycle by the end of the season producing more seeds, then dies. 
One reason it is a problem is from its prolific seed production, as much as 150,000 seeds per plant per
year.  Only half of these may germinate the following year, the other half remaining viable and able to
germinate in later years.  While weak lawns may end up largely crabgrass, healthy lawns can tolerate a
few of these or other weeds.  
           
It follows that a good way to control crabgrass is to prevent either seed formation, or seed germination. 
Seeds begin germinating in the spring when soil temperatures reach at least 55 to 60 degrees (F) for
anywhere from 3 to 10 consecutive days.  Different studies have shown different numbers of days
needed, depending on how warm the soil gets.  Keep in mind open, bare ground will warm sooner in
spring than one covered with dense turfgrass, shielding the soil from the warm sun.
           
Commonly used for control of crabgrass seed germination are preemergent herbicides.  These often are
found combined with lawn fertilizers, so you can apply both at once.  Make sure to read and follow all
label directions and precautions when applying herbicides.

Timing of such weed chemicals is crucial, as they act on the germinating seeds, so must be applied
before seeds begin germinating. Applied too early, and the chemicals wont last the whole season.  Keep
in mind crabgrass seeds can germinate until soil temperatures reach the 90’s.  In the Northeast,
germination can occur over three months, or much of the summer.  Applied too late, and the chemicals
wont be effective as seeds already will have germinated. 

Although soil temperatures are the sure guide to timing, the common guide for northern climates is by
the time forsythia blooms begin dropping.  If a warm spring, this may be mid to late April.  If a cool
spring, this may be early May.  If you err, it is best to be just a little early than too late.  Some of the
preemergent herbicides are timed for best application about eight to ten days before the seeds
germinate.  If such herbicides are combined with lawn fertilizers, the latter are effective when grass
begins growing, often in mid April in northern areas.

Beware that if you are creating a new lawn from seeds, or reseeding bare spots, such herbicides may kill
desirable lawn seeds just as they do those of crabgrass.  If you apply early, and it is a warm season or
there are many crabgrass seeds in the soil from previous years, you may need to reapply a preemergent
herbicide in six to eight weeks (mid to late June). 

If creating new lawns, the main source of crabgrass is from the soil.  Seeding of new turfgrasses is best
done in late summer.  This allows plants to establish in fall and better compete with weeds such as
crabgrass emerging in spring.  Use the right selection of turfgrasses, and the proper fertilizer.  Your local
full service garden supply store should be able to provide recommendations on both. 
           
For established lawns, proper culture to maintain them dense and healthy is the key to crabgrass
prevention.  If you haven’t done a soil test, do so, and correct the pH or soil acidity if needed.  Apply
proper fertilizer, also according to the soil test.  This way you don’t apply nutrients the soil may not
need, such as phosphorus, which may end up in waterways instead.

Provide good irrigation during the season if possible.  If it doesn’t rain, grass can use an inch of water a
week, watered deeply and less often.  Sprinkling the surface more often results in roots near the surface,
more subject to stress and prone to weeds taking over.

Perhaps THE most important key to a healthy lawn, better able to compete with crabgrass and other
weeds, is high mowing of two and a half to three inches.  Mow often, never removing more than a third
of the grass at any one mowing.
           
If, in spite of your best efforts, you still get weeds such as crabgrass, consider hand pulling if only a few. 
For large areas, consider other herbicides if only scattered weeds.  If weed infestation is high, as over 40
percent, or there are many bare spots, you may consider a complete lawn renovation.
 Controlling Crabgrass is all in the timing.
Here’s what you need to know
BY DENNIS PATTON March 22, 2019 10:14 AM

Did I apply too early? Am I applying too late? Just when do I need to apply crabgrass pre-emergent?
Don’t let crabgrass prevention make you crabby. Here’s what you need to know. Annual grassy weeds
germinate, grow and produce seeds each year. They resemble desirable turfgrasses in their growth habit
but look different in texture and color. Crabgrass, goosegrass and foxtail are all annual grasses; crabgrass
is the most notorious of these three weeds.

Crabgrass pre-emergence herbicides prevent annual grass seeds from growing into mature plants. They
don’t prevent the seed from germinating; instead, once germinated the plant takes up the herbicide and
dies. Crabgrass preventers are just that — preventers. With the exception of a few products, they will not
affect established crabgrass plants.

Crabgrass typically begins to germinate around May 1. Apply the herbicide several weeks before
germination to allow time for the active ingredient in the herbicide to evenly disperse in the soil. Your
exact application date will depend on whether you choose a short residual or a long residual product.
Pre-emergence herbicides are short residual products that don’t last forever. Microorganisms and natural
processes break them down. Therefore, if applied too early they may lose much of their strength by the
time they are needed. Short residual preventers are only effective up to 60 days. A second application is
often necessary to extend control. These include Halts (Pendimethalin), Team (Benefin + Trifluralin) and
Tupersan (Siduron).

Typically, a good target date for applying these products is April 15. This gives the active ingredient time
to evenly disperse in the soil before crabgrass germination starts. Water in all pre-emergence products
with a half inch or more of water within three days after application. Dimension (Dithiopyr) and
Barricade (Prodiamine) give season-long control of crabgrass from a single application. In fact, they can
be applied much earlier than short residual products and still will last the entire season. Barricade can
even be applied in the fall for crabgrass control the following spring. Dimension can be applied now. This
application flexibility makes these products favorites of lawn care companies that have many customers
to service in the spring.

Though Dimension cannot be applied as early as Barricade, it is the herbicide of choice if you must apply
later than recommended. It is the exception to the rule that pre-emergence herbicides do not kill existing
weeds. Dimension can kill crabgrass as long as it is young (two- to three-leaf stage). A good target date
for these products is mid-March through mid-April.

Have you been told to apply crabgrass pre-emergence when the forsythia is in bloom? Weather varies
from one spring to the next, and with it, the timing of crabgrass germination. It is often better to time your
application to the blooming of the redbud trees. Redbud is that little tree that blooms pinkish-purple each
spring, is native and is accustomed to the yearly changes in weather. When the redbud is approaching full
bloom, apply short residual crabgrass pre-emergence products. A follow-up application may be needed
about six weeks later to prevent any late germinating weeds from establishing.

Longer lasting products have a bigger application window from mid-March through mid-April, or later.
As always, read the product label thoroughly and follow all instructions. Now is your chance to stop
crabgrass in its tracks by being prepared and applying the right product at the right time.
You still have time! Preemergent Herbicides
Posted on April 17, 2015 (By Jared Hoyle, KSU Turfgrass Extension Specialist)

Pre-emergent (PRE) herbicides prevent summer annual weed (For Example, crabgrass, goosegrass,
annual sedges, and spurge) seeds from developing into mature plants.  The reason we use PRE herbicides
for summer annual weed control is because these summer annuals come back every year from seeds.  So
if we can stop the seed from growing then we don’t have to deal with the weeds later in the season.

For all that don’t know how a PRE herbicide works here is a very short explanation.  They do not keep
the seed from germinating but kill the young germinating plant.  With few exceptions they have no effect
on existing plants, so they must be applied before germination.

But like in everything in life there is an exception.  Dithiopyr can kill crabgrass as long as it is young
(two- to three-leaf stage, see photo below of three leaf crabgrass) and still have some residual for
continued PRE activity. It doesn’t last as long as some of the other PRE herbicides but there is flexibility
if you miss your window of opportunity to apply.

So when do I put out the PRE application for summer annual weed control? Well, it depends on many
things.  What summer annuals you have? Where are you located in Kansas?  Many times turfgrass
managers center their PRE applications around crabgrass germination.  Crabgrass typically begins to
germinate around May 1 or a little later in KS. April 15 is a good target date for applying a PRE because
it gives active ingredients time to evenly disperse in the soil before crabgrass germination starts. The
April 15 target works well for most of the state, but for southeast Kansas April 1 is more appropriate, and
for northwest Kansas May 1 is best.  Additionally, weather varies from one spring to the next, and with it
the timing of crabgrass germination. Some turfgrass managers base their PRE application around the
bloom of the Redbuds but other ways can be used as well.  Crabgrass germinates when the soil at
approximately 1 cm deep reaches 55° F.  So watch your soil temperatures to see when the soil
consistently reaches 55° F. Here is a great website that will give you soil temperatures for your area.
http://mesonet.k-state.edu/weather/historical/
PRE herbicides do not last forever once applied to the soil. Microorganisms and natural processes begin
to gradually break them down soon after they are applied. If some products are applied too early, they
may have lost much of their strength by the time they are needed.  Additionally, PRE herbicides have
different half-life, Koc, water solubility, and vapor pressure. This can determine how fast microbial,
chemical and physical decay occurs along with infiltration, volatilization, leaching, and run-off.

Therefore, not all PRE herbicides are created equal.   Here is a list of PRE herbicides, the weeds they
target and some concerns that you might want to know before applying.

Active Ingredient Weeds Controlled Concerns or Comments

benefin summer annual grasses, annual bluegrass, Do not use on golf course greens.
some-small seeded broadleaves

prodiamine summer annual grasses, annual bluegrass, Only apply to well established turfgrass.
henbit, chickweed, spurge, some-small
seeded broadleaves

bensulide annual grasses, some broad-leaves Do not use on putting greens composed of 
> 50% Poa annua.

florasulam broadleaves, dandelion, prickly lettuce, Packaged with Dimension 2EW,

clover florasulam great cool temperature activity,
Prevents flowering in some broadleaves
(dandelions).

dithiopyr summer annual grasses, annual bluegrass, PRE and early post-emergence activity on
yellow-woodsorrel, some small-seeded crabgrass.
broadleaves

isoxaben broadleaves such as chickweed, henbit, Tank-mix with a grass herbicide for
spurge, plantain, others broader spectrum.

pronamide annual bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, other Do not use on cool-season turf.
grassy & broadleaf weeds. Restricted use pesticide.

pendimethalin summer annual grasses, annual bluegrass, Not recommended for turf severely
yellow-woodsorrel, some small-seeded thinned due to winter stress.  Split
broadleaves applications can be made for extended
control.
 Active Ingredient Weeds Controlled Concerns or Comments
metolachlor annual bluegrass, crabgrass, sedges Do not use on cool-season turf.

simazine summer annual grasses, annual bluegrass, Do not use on cool-season turf.
henbit, chickweed, spurge, some-small
seeded broadleaves

ethofumesate annual bluegrass, annual grasses, some See label for reducing annual bluegrass in
annual broadleaves cool-season turf.

oxadiazon summer annual grasses including Ronstar G and Oxadiazon 2G are only
goosegrass, annual bluegrass, some-small formulations labeled for use on cool-
seeded broadleaves season turf.

indaziflam annual grassy and broadleaf weeds in turf Do not use on cool-season turf.

oryzalin summer annual grasses, annual bluegrass, Do not use on cool-season turf except
some-small seeded broadleaves tall fescue. 

dimethenamid bittercress, crabgrass, goosegrass, purslane, On golf courses: Can be used on cool-

sedges, spurge and warm-season.  Other turf areas:
Warm-season only.

siduron crabgrass, bermudagrass (suppression) Does not control goosegrass or annual

bluegrass.

Information in this table was acquired from “Turfgrass Weed Control for Professionals” by A. Patton and D.
Weisenberger, Purdue University. For more information about purchasing this publication ($12.00) for
complete information see;

***There are many combination PRE herbicides that combine these active ingredients with each other and with
other POST-emergent herbicides***

Always remember to READ THE LABEL for the correct rate, turfgrass tolerance, and specific instructions before
application!!!

***Mention of trade names or commercial products in this article is solely for identification purposes and does not
imply recommendation or endorsement, nor is criticism implied of similar products not mentioned by Kansas State
University.***