Author: Dan Martin

Title: Breaking the Grid

Headings

● In headings, use and NOT &

● Headline-style for all but <b>Heading:</b>; these are sentence style caps

Materials and Tools Lists:

● <h3>
● No colon after Materials or Tools
● In order of when the item is introduced
● No initial cap
● Spell out unnecessary abbreviations (e.g., with NOT w/)
● No end punctuation
● Serial comma for long list items
○ If there is a long list item (e.g., dried leaves, food scraps, brush, bark, or wood),
keep as a single item as long as or is clear. If the item isn’t a list of optional
items, then separate.
● Remove any items that don’t need to be mentioned
● Add references to any items that have a project in this book. (e.g., Tarp (page <x>)
●

Numbers:

● Spell out numbers used in narrative sections

● Use Arabic numerals for numbers in lists and steps, especially if they are units of
measure
● Hyphenate numbers and abbreviations when used as an adjective (e.g., a 55-gal drum,
a 2-in pipe, etc.); this helps readers know whether to read the abbreviation as “inch” or
“inches”
○ Same with fractions in adjectival form
● For numbers counting in units of measure (e.g., two 2-ft boards), use arabic numerals
inside parentheses (e.g., (2) 2-ft boards)
● Spell out ordinals
● Don’t use fraction characters (e.g., write out 1/2 NOT ½ ) ??Would we prefer fraction
characters???
● Add spaces between whole numbers and fractions, numbers and Xs, and numbers and
abbreviations
○ 1 1/2 x 4 in
● 2 x 4 is appropriate when used as a name for a 2 x 4-in board (and similar items)
 ● When asking for 2 x lumber, try and rewrite to say something similar to “lumber that is 2
in thick”
● Combining feet and inches in adjectival form: 2-ft 6-in long front legs

Punctuation:

● In most cases, replace single quotation marks with italics

● In other cases, replace single quotation marks with double quotation marks
● If the quotation marks and italics are unnecessary, remove
● Serial comma
● Singular possessives ’s and plural possessives s’
● Remove parentheses whenever possible
●

Miscellaneous:

● Abbreviate units of measure in chicago style, no period

○ Spell out “inches” when abbreviation is next to preposition
○ No space between percent and degree symbols
● Spell out units of measure that aren’t typically abbreviated (e.g., month NOT mo.)
● Chicago style citations (endnotes)
● Add omitted pronouns and articles (a, an, the, it) or a name to replace pronoun
● Make dialogue standard. No colons or fragments as an intro to dialogue. (see Intro as
example)
● Remove superscript 12 (indicates recycled items)
● Use percent symbol (%) in all cases, narrative and instructions
● Remove all strikethroughs unless the usage is clear, effective, and beneficial
●

Alpha List:

● alkalis (n.) plural

● EPDM: rubber-based flexible tubing. Not found in Sch or Sdr
● fpt (adj): female pipe thread
● kWh
● micro gardening
● mpt (adj): male pipe thread
● OC (preposition) (not C.C. or c.t.c.): on-center, typically used in reference to framework,
nails, or screws. It describes the distance between all supports, from the center of the
first to the center of the next and so on.
● PE: Polyethylene pipe, also known as poly pipe.
● plant pot (n)
● RH (n): relative humidity
● Sch 40 (typically PVC)
 ● Sdr 35 (only when pipe is over 4 inches in diameter. If under, change to Sch. 40)(most
common with PE or PVC, not EPDM.)
● stage two bins (lowercase when not referencing the project title) (page <x>)
● Thin-Set (n.) Type of mortar (also known as Thinset Mortar, Thin-Set Mortar, and Thin
Set Mortar)
● ziplock (adj.)
● Use “amp” instead of “a”: 15-amp****Or maybe A: 15A, 50A, 240V
● wheelbarrow not wheel barrel
● burro not burrow for a mule (donkey?)
● A-frame ladder
● jig saw rather than jigsaw (despite being the convention)

For designer:

● Ignore numbers in image name; they are just for personal organization
● The image tag is on the step where the photo belongs
● If the tag says “crop,” then please crop the image to focus on the main subject before
inserting into the doc
● If there is a tag but no picture, it should be coming. You can contact
shaelyn@familius.com or michele@familius.com with any questions.
● For page references, the project being referenced will be within two words of (page <x>)
○ The project title may be a partial, but there shouldn’t be anything it can be
confused with
○ If the project isn’t next to the tag, we will do (Project Name, <x>)
○ If there are projects with the same headings (not common), we will add more
direction in the <x> tag
● Fill space with line drawings as needed/appropriate
● You can manipulate the design template to fit the book as needed and as desired
● <TOC> will be the main TOC. We would just like this to include the <part>,<ch>, and
<section> headings.
● <insert ch TOC> will be at the beginning of each chapter. We would like the <section>,
<h1>, and <h2> headings to be included in these TOCs.
○ If we’re short on space, we can cut this down to just <section> and <h1>

For proofreader:

● There are a lot of different stylistic choices in this book. We try to follow Chicago style
wherever possible, but some items aren’t specified in Chicago. We’ve kept track of
where we’ve had to create our own style and where we’ve deviated from Chicago. You
are welcome to adjust the style as needed.
● I also want to ask that you look closely for number 12 superscripts and mark them for
deletion; these were an organizational feature that we decided to remove, and we’re
discovering that Find and Replace didn’t locate all of them.
Tagging:

● <part>parts of the book

● <ch>chapter titles ??(remove Ch number)??
● <section>
● <insert ch TOC> after ch heading (we’ll have a TOC at the beginning of every chapter
and a simplified one at the beginning of the book)
● <section>section headings
● <h1>Terms to Know and project headings
● Project Heading<insert image.fin>
● <h2>Subprojects
● <h3>Materials and Tools
● <b></b>For minor headings within a project. Could be replaced with <h4>
○ Use sentence-style caps with these headings
● <nmbrlist></nmbrlist> for steps
● <list></list> for lists other than instructions (exludes materials and tools lists)
● <note>NOTE: or WARNING: or IMPORTANT:</note>
○ Keep only if necessary, and if it won’t add too much space
○ If the note fits as a step, include with instructions
○ Use <note> with OPERATION: only if necessary (i.e., if OPERATION: can’t fit
with steps or if it looks better than <h3>)
○ If a note has a picture try and make it a step
● <insert image projectname.#><insert image projectname.fin>
○ For Shutterstock, <insert image shutterstockID#>
○ Add .opt for optional pics
○ <for steps #–# insert image projectname.#>when pic belongs to more than one
step
○ <crop and insert image projectname.#>when designer will need to crop an image
○ If a bullet list or <b>Heading</b> has a picture, keep the tag with the
corresponding text and add a caption with the <b>Heading</b>.
● <table></table>
● <caption>
● <super>superscript</super>
● _subscript
● For references .<super>#</super>
● (page <x>) both in the materials lists and instructions
○ Write (Project Name, page <x>) if the project isn’t clear in the text, but try to use
the project name in the text whenever possible
○ Use <sidebar> as a last resort for long ref lists
● (Optional) before any optional step or item
● Operation: Include as a step
 CHAPTER 3: HOME PRODUCTION OF PRODUCE
Are you an avid gardener or just growing peppers in a pot on a sill? Growing your own produce is a
staple DIY venture. It’s a basic necessity that doesn’t cost anything and should be taught in school…
Learn how to grow food? Or, learn how to play basketball. It doesn’t make much sense.

Have you ever heard the saying “money doesn’t grow on trees”? It actually does in that the more food
you produce for free, the more money you have in your pocket. Growing your own produce is a staple
DIY venture.

No matter your location—Detroit or Dallas, or home size--an acre, an apartment, or a sidewalk

median, you can produce significant quantities of food. That said, not all plants will grow everywhere
and getting one to grow doesn’t mean it’ll produce food. You need to learn how to 'grow to produce'.
People always say, “I’m growing this or that,” but when I ask, “how was your harvest?” They say, “It
hasn’t produced yet.” If you’re not getting any production, you might as well grow a fern. You need to
learn how to 'grow to produce'.

Plants are just like humans. They eat, drink, feel, have families, babies, build communities,
communicate, respire, perspire, overheat, freeze. Their bodies are like ours as well but their heads
(much like most humans) are kept underground. The human reproduction system will not function in
extreme/high stress conditions (i.e., war, famine, trauma, getting an axe in the side). Others require a
little extra knowledge in horticulture to be productive. Over time, I’ve learned what plants require not
only to survive, but to thrive and bear fruit, enabling me to harvest and raise them productively, more
efficiently, for free.

COST Commented [ST1]: One picture

You don't need a lot of, (or any), money to grow food if you’re repurposing materials you already
have. The societal instilled notion (like most) of food costing money to grow is absurd. Fruits and Commented [ST2]: We really have to emphasize which cases
will have zero costs. I made this adjustment to try to clarify the
vegetables, nuts and seeds, syrup, potatoes, bananas, apples, and everything else has been growing difference.
where humans live for millions of years before humans showed up. Even longer before the concept of
selling itnatural products for little dyed green pieces of paper (both plant products btw). What an
incredible brilliant (and simple) idea though: Let’s take something that’s all around us, has been free
for millions of years, and is abundant (there’s no shortage of food on this planet,) let’s take it and tell
people they now have to pay us for it because we have costs involved! The scam would be similar to Commented [ST3]: We should stay focused on costs for
growing food, so I deleted this section to emphasize the main point.
selling, oh IDK, say water with >70% of the planet covered in it? What’s next bottling and selling air? Ok?

“Canadian start-up sells bottled air to China” – CNN (Dec 2015)

And the thought that humans can’t simply look around and see that food and water is produced by
this planet just like this planet produces air. And like air, food and water being a necessity for human
life, shouldn't cost money,. I mean the idea of someone bottling air and selling it to you in a store is
preposterous for you right? Well I guarantee that the first time someone picked an apple or caught a
fish and brought it to his neighbor asking for money was absurd also.

“But you have costs involved growing food.” – Farmer John.

I don’t have costs growing food; I don’t have costs doing anything myself. Now, sure, if you want me
to harvest it for you, transport it to you, and put it in a bag so you can take it home, I’ll charge you for
my time, purchases, and transport expenses. Otherwise, if you’re growing locally, naturally, and
organically and are accruing costs, you’re doing it wrong! I’ve included many projects in this chapter
to start you on your way. Just follow along with the methods I’ve used and choose which will best fit
your needs.

Methods<insert image methods.fin> Commented [ST4]: Methods.fin is an image of duckweed. If

you have another image in mind, we can put it here instead.

You don't need a ten-acre farm or even a garden to grow food. And it doesn't matter where you live;
there's food growing this very second in cities, forests, deserts, jungles, up in the mountains, and
even in the ocean! The following table shows different methods for efficiently growing just a fraction of
the 50,000+ edible plant species (of which we consume <150) currently growing all around earth, of
which we consume less than 150. In fact, two-thirds of our daily food comes from just three of the
tens of thousands of cereal crops known to man. There’s so much food growing naturally on this
planet (at no cost to anyone), someone should open a bunch of 'free food factories' and just give it
away!

"Cereal grains are the seeds that come from grasses such as wheat, millet, rice, barley, oats, rye,
triticale, sorghum, and maize (corn). About 80 percent of the protein and over 50 percent of the
calories consumed by humans and livestock come from cereal grains." - Encyclopedia.com

Before choosing what to plant, find the food type desired using use the Produce Methods table below
to determine which food type is best for you and your location. You may learn that although you love
almonds, you don’t want to wait five years. I also suggest staying with perennials to save energy
replanting after each harvest. <insert methods.table.1>
"Cereal grains are the seeds that come from grasses such as wheat, millet, rice, barley, oats, rye,
triticale, sorghum, and maize (corn). About 80 percent of the protein and over 50 percent of the
calories consumed by humans and livestock come from cereal grains." - Encyclopedia.com
If you still can’t decide, the following plants are some of my favorites, and I’ve included some tips and
tricks for the most efficient ways to grow and eat them.
*requires additional preparations before consuming
** categorized as a noxious weed
Commented [5]: produce method table
Commented [ST6R5]: The entirety of this table may be hard to
fit in this book. Would you be able to choose about 10 plants to
keep in the book? These can be the most common plants, the
plants you think are most useful, your favorite plants, the easiest
plants to grow, etc.
If you still want readers to have access to your full chart, an option
would be to host the chart on your website, and we could include a
link or possibly a QR code.
Commented [ST7]: Since the info below is different from the
info above, it would be a good idea to separate the two sections
with an explanation of what the following information is going to
be. It could be something like this. Just anything to describe the
purpose of the bullet list.

³ (25-50% less with/ HP) Commented [ST8]: Is this key connected to the produce
method table? Or is this connected to the bullet points below? If so,
I don’t see the marks being used in either place, and we might want
● In non-climate-controlled environments, plant lettuce and/or kale in late winter, heat-tolerant to delete them.
lettuce (Sampson, Nevada, etc.) and/or chard in early summer, and lettuce and kale again in
early fall.
● Freeze Kale to turn its bitter taste to sweet.
● Watermeal is the smallest (<1/16in), simplest structured flowering plant known, at less than
1/16in, which makes it a breeze to grow in almost any water environment. Nutrient levels are
higher than most at around 40% protein, equivalent to soybean but with 100one-hundred times
the production,/ harvest rate/, and quantity.
● Freeze Kale to turn its bitter taste to sweet.
● Duckweed (Lemna minor) grows wild, (doubling almost weekly) in any stagnant body (see
Chapter 12 on page <insert page number>) and is exceptionally tasty to us, fish, fowl and Commented [ST9]: What section of chapter 12 are we
referencing? Or are we referencing static water in chapter 11?
livestock. At almost 50% protein content, it’s packed full of nutrients (4% fat, 8–10% fiber,
 vitamins A/and B, lysine, iron and zinc). Puree the duckweed, and add it to soups/ or stews,
sauté it, or dehydrate it and add as a powder.
● Brambles, considered noxious weeds based on their “tendency to grow in neglected areas,”
are also chock full of vitamins and antitoxins. The list includes blackberry, salmonberry,
loganberry, tayberry, wine berry, youngberry, boysenberry, dewberry, raspberry, and
thimbleberry, all of which are equally delicious and easy to grow (like a weed).
● Cattail tops are exceptional when prepared like corn on the cob. Rhizomes, like potatoes and
pollen, are can be powdered and added to cattails as a spice. Commented [ST10]: Added to the cattail tops as a spice? Or
just added to other foods in general? If we’re specifically talking
● There are three groups of sugar cane: chewing, (which is the easiest to grow, and very about cattails, maybe we could do something like this. Or if this is
sweet),; crystal, which is (for making sugars); and syrup, which is (for juices, syrups, and supposed to be another bullet point, we should separate it from the
cattails.
molasses).
● Strawberry seeds can take four weeks or more to germinate.
● Valencia oranges are better for juicing, Naval for eating.
● Plants produce many bi-products besides food, like pollen, fiber, oil, rubber, pigment, dye,
cotton, sugar, syrup, molasses, starch, compost, glue, fuel, mulch, woodchips, timber, and
much more.

Needs Commented [ST11]: One picture

Look up the root depth, spacing, pH, soil type, fertilizer type/frequency, light/ and temp requirements,
and RH (relative humidity) for each edible plant you’re interested in growing, and make a plant needs
table (see example below). Determine what each plant requires, which plants overlap in which areas,
and therefore, which can be grown together.

Depth Space Tem RH

Plant Soil (in) (in) Ph NPK Sun p (%)
2.5-.2- 86–
Almond Sandy loam 24 240 7.0 3 Full 95 20–65
6.0– Full, 50–
Arugula Any 12–18 1 7.0 2-1-3 partial 65 50–70
Asparag Sandy, sandy 6.5– 10-20- Full, 60–
us loam >48 15–18 7.5 10 partial 70 60–70
6.0– 60–
Broccoli Sandy 18–36 18–24 7.5 5-10-5 Full 65 70–85
5.0– None– 50–
Potato Sandy loam 18–24 10–12 6.5 5-10-5 full 65 60–85
Raspber 5.5– 10-10- 60–
ry Sandy loam 24–36 12 6.2 10 Full 70 60–75
Thyme 4.5– 5-10- Full,
herb Sandy loam 14 12 8.0 10 partial 70 10–80
5.5– 5-10- 70–
Tomato Sandy loam 48+ 96+ 6.5 10 Full 75 >45
Waterm 6.0– 5-10- 65–
elon Sandy loam 24–48 60–84 6.5 10 Full 75 >50

EXAMPLE: We see that asparagus, broccoli, and potato could be grown together if the pH were kept
at 6.5, temps between 60 and 65°, and RH at 70%. Thyme, tomato, and watermelon are another
grouping if pH is kept between 6.0 and 6.5, temps at 70°, and RH above 50%.
 TRADITIONAL FARMS/FARMING Commented [ST12]: One picture

With more than half of the world’s population living in cities, I’ve personally never seen, owned, been
to, or known anyone who has ever farmed in a traditional fashion. Traditional farming is quickly
becoming obsolete due to inefficiency, waste of harvest (>40%), energy/ and labor, environmental
impact through fertilizer run-off and CO2 pollution from tractors/trailers, and loss from droughts,
freezes, diseases, varmints, insects, and the economy. Plus, even with machinery, it's really hard
work (which, historically, is why it’s left to the labor class). Planting, growing, and harvesting burns a
lot of calories, for little—and sometimes no—return, not to mention the giant learning curve you'd
experience; due to growing amid losses due to freezes, heat waves, and flooding. In fact, a large
percentage of the produce you buy from companies like Dole, Village Farms, Red Sun Farms, Vet
Veggies, and Mirabel Boston isn't grown on traditional farms anymore; it's grown hydroponically in
greenhouses.
Don’t misunderstand; there’s nothing wrong with soil growing for relaxation or as a hobby, but the
calories spent to harvest food from dirt makes it impractical for self-reliance when there are more
efficient methods. And if I included all the inefficient ways I or everyone has ever done things in this
book, you’d be reading about how to build a telegraph machine, typewriters, a combustion engine and
a coal-fired power plant.
Commented [ST13]: This could be taken two ways. Either
farms are becoming obsolete because of “regulations and
restrictions that have been written to reduce the environmental
impact of fertilizer run-off and tractor CO2 pollution,” or the
environmental consequences are causing farmers to stop farming
because of environmental awareness. If it is the first one, then we
might consider rewording it similar to how I did in this comment.
But if it’s the second, we might consider deleting it since it would be
a very large assumption about a controversy that is based on each
individual’s opinion.
Commented [ST14]: Is this the learning curve that we’re
talking about? If so, maybe we should reword it to something like,
“not to mention the giant learning curve you’d experience due to
growing amid freezes, heat waves, and floods.”

CO-OP FARMING Commented [ST15]: One picture

Co-op farms are gaining traction, at least in Europe. Neighbors purchase stock in a local farm and
draw monthly or quarterly dividends in real product. This method is not only more efficient,
saving/spreading a farm’s large workload, but it saves consumers a trip to the supermarket and
companies and truckers trips shipping food across the country/ and planet. There are still
considerable losses and inefficiencies, but it’s a step in a better direction.

BACKYARD GARDEN<INSERT IMAGE BACKYARDGARDEN.FIN> Commented [ST16]: It’s not necessary to have more pictures
for this project, but it would be helpful if we could have example
pictures of the plants of each diagnosis.
You may have thought picking up a book on “how to do everything” would have a massive chapter
dedicated to gardening. A “grow enough food on a quarter acre to feed your entire family” book this is
not. This book is more like, grow enough food in a spare bedroom. Gardening, like farming, for the
same reasons, just isn’t very efficient. And, like many of you, I don't really possess a green thumb.
So, after moving my fair amount of soil around in circles, wasting money on fertilizers and dealing
with insects, sweat and weather, I discarded the dream I’d picked-up who-knows-where and ditched
the ditch digging and pitch forking. So for now, at least for this book, we'll skip the traditional garden
bed growing method. There are plenty of other books out there for that. I do have plenty of mistakes,
mishaps and failures to pass on, though:

● Animal bites – To deter moles, rabbits and other beasts of Caerbannog from sinking their Commented [ST17]: Maybe we could alphabetize the bullet list
like this? It will make it easier to readers to refer to.
pointy teeth into your plants, spread blood meal (or holy hand grenades) around the crops. To
deter deer, try scattering human hair¹² (free from barber shops) on and around the plants. I get
50/50 results from hair, depending on precipitation.
● Burn – When too much fertilizer, permeates the soil, especially nitrogen (after absorbing all the Commented [ST18]: How do we adjust if we do have too much
fertilizer?
surrounding water) the salts suck moisture from the plant itself after absorbing all the
surrounding water, resulting in sunburn-like symptoms and root hair damage.

● Disease – Plants get sick frequently assince they’re constantly being bombarded by fungi, Commented [ST19]: Is there a way to fight plant disease? Or
do we just need to separate the plants and let the infected ones die
bacteria, bugs and other infectious organisms. Disease is usually manifested by a discolored out?
spotting of the leaves and can be contagious, especially in tight quarters.

● Dropping leaves – Like human hair, leaves die/fall out naturally for many reasons. When
healthy green leaves fall (more commonly in house plants), it’s usually due to over-watering
and/or shock from a change in routine.

● Insect bites – Little buggers munching on crops shouldn’t be confused with disease. Holes are Commented [ST20]: How do we protect the plants against
insect bites?
clean, not discolored, and omni-shaped including edges.
Commented [ST21]: What does omni-shaped mean? All
shapes? Or something else?
● Nutrient deficiency - If a nutrient deficiency first appears in newer, top leaves, add calcium (Ca),
Commented [ST22]: How can you tell if a plant has a nutrient
vanadium (V), chlorine (Cl), carbon (C), copper (Cu), iron (Fe), manganese (Mn), molybdenum deficiency?
(Mo), silicon (Si), and sulfur (S). If the deficiency is in the lower, older leaves, add nitrogen (N),
phosphorus (P), magnesium (Mg), and zinc (Zn). If there is browning between veins, add
potassium (K). If yellow, add Fe. If there are Ddark green or grey blotches, add P. If the Lleaves
turn yellow with brown spots but the veins stay green, add Mg. If the Lleaves turn brown with
dark spots then yellow and curl up, add K. If darkness appears near the stem of leaves with
yellow veins, add S. Torn stems, elongated leaf, brown tips add B. leaves stop growing and get
smears of color add Zn. Leaves turn brown and fall off add Cu, Mo and trace elements.

● Overfeeding – When excess fertilizer is applied, nitrogen and salts build up and absorb water Commented [ST23]: Is this the same as the bullet point on
burn? If so, we can probably just remove one of the entries.
instead of roots, causing high levels of toxicity that is reflecteds in a lack of blooms or fruit. This
results in leafves shedding, burning and death.

● Overheating/sunburn (scorch) – 99% of a plant’s water intake goes to photosynthesis and Commented [ST24]: What are ways to prevent overheating?
And how can we bring a plant back from it?
perspiration (transpiration) to prevent overheating. When a plant overheats, leaf wilting looks
more like curling with burnt tips/edges, and the eventual dropping of dry leaves.

● Wilting - Plants wilt when not watered enough correctly. Visualize a plant’s skeleton as a
firehose. When there’s water pressure, the plant (roots, stalk, leaves) are firm, strong and full.
When pressure’s low (Turgor), the hose is limp, dead and droopy.

● Overwatering - To confuse things, overwatering will also cause wilt (usually accompanied by a
lighter leaf color). This is because, like us, they need oxygen during cellular respiration
(breathing) to break down carbs for energy (metabolism). So along with roots, they have lung-
like feathery cells to absorb oxygen, which when underwater, suffocate and drown. Since
hydration can no longer occur without a working respiratory system, the plant begins
conserving water (wilting), despite its roots being submerged. Unfortunately, we usually
interpret this to mean that the plant needs water and add more, which causes further trauma.

NOTE: If you’re now thinking, “Oh, now I understand why my hibiscus…” pour in a couple cups
of hydrogen peroxide (H2O2). It’s like an oxygen mask on a drowning victim.

● Overheating/sunburn (scorch) – 99% of plant’s water intake goes to photosynthesis and

perspiration (transpiration) to prevent overheating. When a plant overheats, leaf wilting looks
more like curling with burnt tips/edges, and the eventual dropping of dry leaves.
 ● Overfeeding – When excess fertilizer is applied, nitrogen and salts build up and absorb water
instead of roots, causing high levels of toxicity that reflects in a lack of blooms or fruit. This
results in leaves shedding, burning and death.

● Burn – When too much fertilizer, permeates the soil, especially nitrogen (after absorbing all the
surrounding water) the salts suck moisture from the plant itself, resulting in sunburn-like
symptoms and root hair damage.

● Shock – Plants suffer transplant shock during initial planting or moving. Shock stunts growth, Commented [ST25]: How do we combat shock?
delaying production, and can cause leaf tissue to brown, similar to overheating. It can also
cause vein darkening or yellowing along with wilting.

● Wilting - Plants wilt when not watered enough correctly. Visualize a plant’s skeleton as a
firehose. When there’s water pressure, the plant (roots, stalk, leaves) are firm, strong and full.
When pressure’s low (Turgor), the hose is limp, dead and droopy.

● Dropping leaves – Like human hair, leaves die/fall out naturally for many reasons. When
healthy green leaves fall (more commonly in house plants), it’s usually due to over-watering
and/or shock from a change in routine.

● Nutrient deficiency - If a nutrient deficiency first appears in newer, top leaves, add Ca, V, Cl, C,
Cu, Fe, Mn, Mo, Si and S. If the deficiency is in the lower, older leaves, add N,P, Mg and Zn. If
browning between veins, add K. If yellow, add Fe. If Dark green or grey blotches add P. Leaves
turn yellow with brown spots but veins stay green add Mg. Leaves turn brown with dark spots
then yellow and curl up add K. darkness appears near stem of leave with yellow veins add S.
Torn stems, elongated leaf, brown tips add B. leaves stop growing and get smears of color add
Zn. Leaves turn brown and fall off add Cu, Mo and trace elements.

● Disease – Plants get sick frequently as they’re constantly being bombarded by fungi, bacteria,
bugs and other infectious organisms. Disease is usually manifested by a discolored spotting of
the leaves and can be contagious, especially in tight quarters.

● Insect bites – Little buggers munching on crops shouldn’t be confused with disease. Holes are
clean, not discolored, and omni-shaped including edges.

● Animal bites – To deter moles, rabbits and other beasts of Caerbannog, spread blood meal (or
holy hand grenades) around crops. To deter deer, “try” human hair¹² (free from barber shops). I
get 50/50 results from hair, depending precipitation.

COMMUNITY GARDENING Commented [ST26]: One picture

The hardest part of gardening is finding time to mine your investment. Co-op farms receive a
percentage of the harvested crop,. but community gardensCGs own personal plots, sharing land and
chores with multiple individuals to makeing it more efficient. The hardest part of gardening is finding
time to mine your investment. Sharing chores provides an opportunity to save time while learning
grow methods under the tutelage of experienced horticulturists.

INDOOR GARDENING<INSERT IMAGE INDOORGARDENING.FIN>

Supplement your house plants with edible versions (see the Produce Methods table on page <insert
page number>), or grow an entire garden inside. Indoor gardens are often much better producers
since they receive more attention than outdoor gardens, there are no pests, and they’re climate-
Commented [ST27]: What kinds of lights do we need? Grow
controlled. All you need are pots, floors, and windows space or and lights (see Grow Rooms on page lights? Fluorescent, LED, etc?
<x>).

● Use the largest plant pot possible. Water is wasted at first, but free, unobstructed root growth
will allow the plant to flourish, and repetitive transplant shock will be prevented.

● To facilitate regular plant relocation, use a lightweight potting mix with 25–30% moisture-
retaining media (see Soil Mixes on page <insert page number>) and construct or purchase a
plant pot mover/caddy.

● Use your watering schedule (see Watering) or stick a moisture/ pH/ light meter ($0.99 online) Commented [ST28]: Is this referring to the section on watering
with greywater?
6in into each pot, or each pot group on the same watering schedule.

● Don’t add fertilizers for the 1st year.

● Plants have different lighting/ and temperature requirements. Move plants as they react to their
locations accordingly.

NOTE: If you’re planning on keeping a considerable amount of plants, design your south, east
and west walls with plenty of windows (Chapter 6).

● For mushrooms, keep a terrarium or wicker laundry basket covered, or reserve a closet or
cabinet space.

NOTE: If you’re planning on keeping a considerable amount of plants, design your south, east
and west walls with plenty of windows (Chapter 6).

● For plant pots, Uuse recycled containers (coffee cans, buckets, paint cans, plastic jars, small
waste bins, milk containers, 5-gallon buckets, small garbage cans, plastic totes)¹² for pots.
Basically, anything that can hold dirt. I’ll even use doubled grocery bags.<insert image
indoorgardening.fin>

NOTE: Plants don’t care about what they’re wearing, so there’s no need to go overboard
purchasing pots. Even better, make your own (see Pottery on page <insert page number>).

1. For larger pots, use a cut the top 4in off a 35-gallon garbage can or cut the top 4in off a plastic
drum¹² using a table saw, jig saw, or skill saw (not applicable for garbage cans).<insert image
indoorgardening.2> Make sure the bungs are installed tightly, flip it upside down, and place it
near a window. Commented [GU29]: 3.1
Commented [ST30]: Is this the finishing step? If so, should we
NOTE: I like using white semi-transparent drums because you can see the water level inside. For make this step 3?

garbage cans, lids without handles work best when placed underneath as drop trays.

2. Drill (6–8) 1/2in equally spaced holes in the bottom of the drum, deburs all edges and place the Commented [GU31]: 3.3
drum right side up on a drip tray.<insert image indoorgardening.3>

NOTE: For garbage cans, lids without handles work best when placed underneath as drop trays.
 LIGHTING<INSERT IMAGE LIGHTING.FIN>

As mentioned before,In a process called photosynthesis, plants obtain energy from light and CO2 and
convert it into sugars (photosynthesis) to use for mass growth (vegetation, roots, seed, fruit, flowers,
etc.) when it’s dark. So lighting for inside plants is even more critical. Commented [GU32]: 3.9

Different plants require different amounts of light and different intensities. For the most part, though,
adhering to the package directions provides an adequate rule of thumb when growing in colder
climates. For southern regions like South Texas and Arizona, “loves full sun” would fry anything but a
cactus within hours, so dialing it back one to two levels tends to be more realistic in warm
climatesdown here.

WALL GARDENS Commented [ST33]: Finished wall garden picture

Hanging gardens, aka green wall, living wall, or wall gardens, aren’t much more than a wall mounted,
hanging or stand-alone planular garden, grown vertically instead of horizontally. For those with less
space or not willing to lose floor space, the option is detrimental to growing food. Commented [ST34]: Wall gardens aren’t good for people who
have less space or aren’t willing to lose floor space?

Install your wall garden on a solitary, interior wall receiving adequate light or in a kitchen, spare
bedroom, or bathroom window. There are many configurations using plastic bottles, cartons, jugs and
cans. I’ve tried several as well as several of my own, which often (failed), before finally working out
most of the bugs.

1. On a cloudless day, onnear June 21 (if you are in the northern hemisphere), on a south facing Commented [ST35]: Considering that it should be a cloudless
day, does it have to be directly on June 21st? Or could it be “near
clear slab of interior wall, opposite a large window, locate/ and mark wall studs (for framed June 21st”?
homes) within (side to side) and 1ft above the sunlit area of a south facing clear slab of interior
Commented [GU36]: 3.1
wall, opposite a large window, and install a steel curtain rod bracket with a 6in
projection.<insert image wallgardens.1>

2. Hang a 1 1/4 in (or 1in for 1/2 wall gardens) galvanized conduit pipe, level it, and (paint it if
desired). Or, if you want a half wall garden, use a 1 in pipe.

3. For pots, we will use 1–2 L plastic bottles. DividePlace the bottles into columns, bottoms up. In
this case, we will have 16 columns of 5 that will sit side- by side, from pole- to floor. You need
enough to fill and staying inside the lit area of the wall(in this case 16 columns of 5).

3.4. For pots, flip On the bottom of each a 1–2L plastic bottle¹² upside-down, in the bottom,
cut a star shape of cut (6–8) six to eight 1-in lines from ridges to center with a utility knife, then Commented [ST37]: Are we cutting the lines down the ridges
or between the ridges?
snip the tips off 1/4 in backdown.<insert image wallgardens.2>
Commented [GU38]: 3.2
4. Divide the bottles into columns side-side, pole-floor staying inside the lit area (in this
case 16 columns of 5).

5. Remove any labels, scour the bottles with sandpaper, and then drill two 1/32 in holes in each
cap center with the exception of the bottom row caps.

6. Skipping the first and last bottles in each column, snap a chalk line down the middle of each
bottle vertically, and mark 1 in and 5 in down from bottom on the left side and 3in and 7in on
the right. Then cut 2 3/4in horizontal slots on each mark.<insert image wallgardens.3> Commented [GU39]: 3.3
Commented [ST40]: Do we want the slots to meet at the chalk
line?
 7. Push/flip the plastic wall above slots in, heat them with a lighter or torch with a low flame, place Commented [GU41]: 3.4
the neck of a glass bottle inside each slot, and let them cool in place.<insert image
wallgardens.4>

8. In the first column, Ppush the cap of the 4th bottle down through the 5th bottle’s bottom cut
tabs until they snap over the ledge like a spring grip washer, locking the two together. Repeat
for the remaining bottles in the column and for the remaining columns, making sure all
centerlines line up.

NOTE: Build exterior hanging gardens in the same fashion, or an entire greenhouse using all
empty bottles, minus the slots, for insulated walls (minus slots). Commented [ST42]: So we’re not filling these bottles, just
using them for insulation?

9. Cut a hook off a metal hanger¹² and cut the hanger in half. Muse Bend the hanger to make a
slip knot around the neck of the top bottle, bend the opposite end into a hook, and then hook it
on the conduit. Repeat for next the rest of the columns, locating each next to the last without
spacing.

10. Cut the bottom, now top, off the top bottle, leaving a flap in the back. Fill all bottles, except the
first and last in every column, to the bottom of bottom window with lightweight potting soil (see
Soil on page <x>), and plant your seeds or sprouts, (strawberries and herbs work especially
well) referring to your Needs table for sizing (Needs on page <x>).<insert image
Commented [ST43]: By “window”, are we talking about the
bottom of the light area, or the slots we made in the bottles?
Commented [GU44]: 3.5

wallgardens.5> Commented [ST45]: Are we referring to the example needs

table in the Needs section or the needs table the readers are
supposed to create for themselves?
10. NOTE: Strawberries and herbs work especially well in a wall garden.

11. Open the top flap of the top bottle and fill with water. Repeat for the remaining columns.

NOTE: To drain, place a watering can with spout below the bottom bottle, remove the cap,
leave to drain, replace the cap, and reuse, adding nutrients/oxygen as needed.

IMPORTANT: My 2 L bottles measure 11 3/4in tall by 4 1/4in wide with 1 1/16in necks. If yours
are different, adjust measurements accordingly.

NOTE: For If you’re placing the wall garden in a windows rather than on a wall, use cheap
metal curtain rods ($1.99 at dollar or thrift stores). For windows where you don’t want to
sacrifice light or have taller plants, separate columns by several inches, or use top (cut) bottles
with wire hooks vertically parallel for horizontal light gaps. Commented [ST46]: Does this mean that the bottle will be
horizontal and attached to the columns by wire hooks?

NOTE: To drain, place watering can with spout below bottom bottle, remove cap, leave to drain,
replace cap and reuse, adding nutrients/oxygen as needed.

RAISED BED GARDENS<INSERT IMAGE RAISEDBEDGARDENS.FIN>

Why the spend extra energy spent raising a garden bed? To keep moles, rabbits and other critters Commented [GU47]: 3.0.1-3.0.3

from eating plants and roots as well as provide some control over weeds and the plants’ needs, which
makes growing in dirt more efficient.<insert image raisedbedgardens.02>

1. Lay out and grade your garden area and pour a slab (optional) or lay a weed barrier or pour a Commented [GU48]: 3.1
slab.<insert image raisedbedgardens.1>
 2. Construct one to four dry stacked brick, block, board FCBs rectangular boxes (Chapter 6), 6– Commented [GU49]: 3.2
24 in tall, depending on root depths, by over 3 ft wide and less than 8 ft long, rectangular Commented [ST50]: Since we removed chapter 6, we might
have to go into more detail about FCBs.
boxes.<insert image raisedbedgardens.2>
Commented [GU51]: 3.2
NOTE: If using multiple boxes, lay them out in rows east–west, positioning shorter plant boxes
up front, on the south end, and the tallest plant boxes in the back, spaced 3ft or more apart for
cart access.

NOTE: The boxes can be as long as the available space, but they shouldn’t be wider than
double the length you can reach x2.

IMPORTANT: Use any non-biodegradable/ and non-photodegradable materials, but treated

wood isn’t recommended as it tends to leach chemicals.

3. Line the bottom with a 2-in drainage layer of gravel, then another layer of weed barrier to
prevent roots from clogging the drainage layer. Add a 6–12-in layer of heavy potting soil, Commented [GU52]: 3.3, 3.4, 3.5
followed by 2 in of mulch.<insert image raisedbedgardens.3>

NOTE: You should also line the walls with 6-mil plastic, sandwiching the top flap under the top Commented [ST53]: If this is a necessary step, we should make
it part of the instructions rather than a note.
course. The liner insures water soaks down/out to the bottom. Otherwise, it’ll take the path of
Commented [ST54]: What is the top course?
least resistance and travel out the (sides). For poured or mortared walls, drill bottom- or side-
weep holes instead of using plastic liner is swapped for bottom/side weep holes.

NOTE: Because the boxes drain water and nutrients, I suggest adding weed barrier and sand
on the floor between boxes. Otherwise, you’ll quickly find forested aisles.

3.4. Plant your crops with adequate spacing (see your Needs table on page <x>), with Commented [GU55]: 3.6
longer roots in deeper boxes.<insert image raisedbedgardens.6> Commented [ST56]: Again, the needs table above or ones that
the readers create?

NOTE: Plants with the shortest roots, like basil and relish, tend to cover the ground where
taller crops, like corn and sunflower, will have deeper shoots. By arranging in a raked-
auditorium-seating fashion with the tallest crops in the back, no one’s blocking anyone’s
sunlight. Another option is to build one box with stepped walls from 24 in to 6 in.

4.5. To naturally pack soil, water the garden with low-pressure spray until saturated. This will Commented [GU57]: 3.7
drop soil level roughly 15%, forming needed air pockets as water recesses.

NOTE: Vines act as tall plants. Attach them to a lattice along the back wall of the rear box (see Commented [GU58]: 3.8, 3.9, 3.10
Vertical Gardens on page <x>or Overhead Gardens.)<insert image raisedbedgardens.9>

VERTICAL GARDENS<INSERT IMAGE VERTIALGARDENS.FIN>
Similar to wall gardens, the vertical garden is a stand-alone version. Vegetables and fruit, especially
those of the viney nature, are flexible as long as their ‘needs’ are met. They really don’t care much
Commented [ST59]: It would be more helpful to have a picture
that shows construction fencing around the lattice. It would also be
helpful to have a picture/drawing of the lattice structure itself.
Commented [GU60]: 3.1

about position or which way they’re pointing. This is effective for those with tiny patios or who just
want to make efficient use of their available space.

1. Build a raised garden bed 2ft wide, 2ft deep by any length in increments of 5ft 2 3/4in (for 2in
pipe), running east–west.

IMPORTANT: Bed must be within <1ft from of any supporting structure.

 2. Cut 2in PVC conduit pipe to 2ft 6in long and attach vertically inside the raised bed, along the
back wall every 5ft 2 3/4in C.C.OC with pipe clamps, (2ea, one on the top/ and one on the
bottom).

3. Fill the box with lightweight potting soil (see Soils on page <x>), 2in above the top. Soak with a
low-pressure water spray, then refill with soil. Re-soak until the soil is 1in below the top.

4. Prime/gGlue 2in crosses fittings on top of all inside pipes, ( the legs of the crosses parallel to
each other,) and tees on top of both outside pipes, (legs the t-bar vertical and the stem
horizontal and facing inward). Attach 5ft sections of pipe vertically between fittings; repeat to
until the lattice reaches the desired height.
5. For taller walls that are just under <8ft, before capping top the vertical bars with upright tees
(on the inside pipes) and 90º elbows (on the outside pipes), fill all pipes with concrete using
1/4in pea gravel at 4in slump. Vibrate.
NOTE: This vertical garden will support the major, heavier vine plants like tomato, pumpkin,
cantaloupe, squash and watermelon. For lesser, lighter varieties like blackberry, grape,
raspberry, bean, and pea, 1 1/2in pipe is adequate.
Commented [ST61]: Image of this step or image/drawing of
the lattice structure
Commented [ST62]: If we have a picture, we can forego these
descriptions.
Commented [ST63]: Just vertically, or also horizontally?
Commented [ST64]: How do you get the concrete mixture to
4in slump? Maybe, rather than explaining the process of how to
test slump, we should just explain the proper consistency.
Or, if we can reference a different section that explains how to test
slump.

6. Cap with plastic bags for five days, then install fittings. Run 4ft green construction fence Commented [ST65]: Which fittings? The top tees and elbows?
If so, maybe we should just move that part of the above step down
vertically over the top of the structure, and around each end pipe, securing to each pipe and here.
itself with UV resistant or galvanized Zip ties, wire, or twist ties¹².

NOTE: If you have excess, you can use chain link, game fence, bird netting, etc.

7. Plant plants on both sides of the box, allowing 1 year or more for vine travel, encouraging
tendrils around the fence as desired.

IMPORTANT: Large fruits require gravity relief hammocks, or bags, attached to the nearest
pipe section. These can be made from socks, panty hose, store produce bags, plastic grocery
bags or any forgiving material¹².
Commented [ST66]: An image of the relief hammocks would
be helpful.
Commented [ST67]: Do we put these bags in place after the
fruit grows? How do we attach them so they support the fruit?

Most species will take over an entire wall if the conditions are right. If there’s any space left, however,
attach to the pipes, preferably at the joints, properly-sized hanging pots of herbs, onions, radishes, or
other hearty plants that don’t require much root space and won’t block sunlight. Most vine plants are
considered weeds; therefore, vertical gardens rarely require constant care.

OVERHEAD GARDEN

Are we pushing the limits of imagination? Tell that to Disney (the Godfather of Imagination). Epcot’s
“The Land Exhibit” 24ft-wide tomato tree (Lycopersicon esculentum) yielded 32,000 tomatoes in its
first 16mo in an overhead garden setup. Commented [68]: This photo here with attribution

1. Weld a structure in 10x10x8ft (high) grid-like sections using 2in SCD40 pipe and weldable
fittings by digging 6x36in post holes and anchoring 10ft lengths of pipe, at 10ft 2- 3/4in centers,
2ft deep in 2000psi concrete.
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Tomatotree.JPG
A Tomato Tree The Land - Epcot Center - Picture taken by
deror avi on October 2005.

2. Wrap, tie, stretch and tie (see Fencing) (2/section) lengths of square knot 660-12-12½ ranch or
horse fencing between parallel pairs of horizontal pipe.
 3. Fill a ≥55gal drum located in the center of each section with heavy potting soil, 10-15% above
pot top. Saturate; and once settled, plant crop type (winter melons, pumpkins, melon,
cantaloupe, tomatoes do really well).

4. Water daily, and when large enough, coil a soaker hose starting 1/4 out radius to container rim
and set on a timer: 1st daily, and when full grown >3x/d (depending on location) or whenever
top couple inches are dry.

5. Install a SS 2in cleat or (2) galvanized 1/4in bolts (2in apart) on the outside pot wall, 2in down.
Run twine over fencing directly above, tying 1 end to plant 4in below main leader and the other
around the cleat, shortening length with growth.

6. As the tree grows, remove all suckers, sprouts and branches within 1ft intervals,
training/pulling all scaffold branches every 12in at 45°, repeating for scaffold/secondary
branches.

7. Prune using V-cordon method once main stem, scaffold and secondary branches reach
fencing, training horizontally, above wires, 360°.

IMPORTANT: Never allow branches (only fruit) to hang vertically. Remove all underside leaves
to provide air flow.

8. Once plant fruits, provide gravity relief bags, hammocks or 1/4-1/2in cotton rope tied to stem
bases.

WATER GARDENS Commented [ST69]: Finished water garden picture

Water gardens are the next level of plant production in both aesthetics and complexity. Most water
plants are able to take care of themselves, and most water bodies have plenty of nutrients, so over-
and underwatering isn’t an issue, but these plants are often sub/tropical and fairly susceptible to Commented [ST70]: Please expand

temperature and pH swings.

1. Draw out your garden shape, with the desired dimensions and geography, then lay it out
garden (Chapter 12) in the chosen location desired in, an area that receives full sunlight. Commented [GU71]: 3.1

2. Grade the area and excavate to multiple depths, stepped from 3–48in, the width and length of Commented [GU72]: 3.2, 3.3, 3.4
each level proportioned to the quantity, type, and spacing of plants chosen (see Table). by Commented [ST73]: Edible water plants or Edible water plants
2?
excavating Excavate the shallowest level first, then the next deepest a few feet in, then the
next deepest a few feet inward of that, and so on, leaving a narrow ramp to use for getting the
excavator out with, which can be excavated by hand or with a backhoe later.<insert image
watergardens.2>

NOTE: If placing Koi, goldfish or other carp, which keep insects under control while providing
nutrients to plants, the depth must be 3–5ft, 5ft in colder climates.

NOTE: When excavating any large area, keep the topsoil, sand and clay separate for later use. Commented [ST74]: Later use in the water garden or in
different projects?

3. IMPORTANT: If the water garden is to haveFor a clay bottom rather than a rather than a liner,
excavate to the clay layer, stepping shelves directly into the clay and add the extra depth into
shelf height for later backfill when water is added.
 NOTE: If excavating the garden to clay depth isn’t an option, excavate the steps normally, plus
1–2ft for room to add clay backfill. After you add 1–2ft of clay backfill, then level all steps from
front to back and side to side.

3.4. To keep erosion to a minimum and prevent the rise of colloidal clay on clay bottom
ponds (not applicable with liners or concrete bottoms), cover everything with carpet, or rock,
etc.<insert image watergardens.6> Commented [GU75]: 3.5, 3.6

4.5. Backfill with sand or pea gravel to desired shelf height (not applicable with concrete or Commented [GU76]: 3.7
liner bottom, then shape, level and mold it to the desired geometry and dimensions.<insert
image watergardens.7>

5. For non clay bottom gardens, coat walls in metal lath and spray shotcrete or pour 2-3in of Commented [ST77]: I moved these down below to separate
the steps of different bottomed gardens.
concrete or coat walls with PSF spray foam (Chapter 6) or 16-45mil ultraviolet stabilized
flexible EPDM pond liner.

NOTE: For gardens >3,000ft², follow pond building instructions.

NOTE: For liner sizing, measure bottom at widest and longest points, add wall height (x2) and
border (1-3ft x2), and an additional 5ft buffer. Line with 5 layers of newspaper¹², 2 layers of
cardboard¹², reclaimed carpet (carpet, flooring or tile store dumpsters) or pond underlayment.

6. For liners, with help, roll/stretch out liner, working corners in. Fill bottom/s with 6in of
loam and 3in washed sand or pea gravel. Place desired rock type, shape, and color (see Faux
Rocks) around border to anchor.

NOTE: Adding fish filters isn’t necessary, since plants themselves are filters (see Natural
Swimming Pools on page <x>).

7.6. Follow the provided Edible Water Plants tables and plant plants similar to raised Commented [GU78]: edible water plants table 1 and 2
gardens with deeper root systems, like lily and lotus, in deep ends and shallow, tall water
plants, like rice and cattail, in back the shallow ends (on the north side).

NOTE: Treat floating and underwater plants as deep rooted.

7. Place pavers (see Driveways on page <x>) or walkways through/ and over the garden to allow Commented [ST79]: Where is the Driveways project?
access for upkeep and harvesting.

For liner bottom water gardens: Commented [ST80]: To keep the steps clear, maybe we could
separate the clay and lined garden steps from each other like this.

1. Coat the walls of your garden in metal lath, and then spray shotcrete, pour 2–3in of concrete,
coat the walls with PSF spray foam, or coat the walls with 16–45mil ultraviolet stabilized
flexible EPDM pond liner.

NOTE: For gardens larger than 3,000ft², follow pond building instructions (see Pond on page
<x>).

NOTE: For liner sizing, measure the bottom of your pond at the widest and longest points, add
two times the wall height and border (1–3ft x2), and an additional 5ft buffer. Line with 5 layers Commented [ST81]: Are we also adding two times the border
length, which is two times anywhere between 1 to 3 feet?
of newspaper¹², 2 layers of cardboard¹², reclaimed carpet, or pond underlayment.
 2. Roll out liner, with help if needed, working the corners in. Fill the bottom with 6in of loam and Commented [ST82]: What kind of liner?
3in of washed sand or pea gravel. Place desired rock type, shape, and color (see Faux Rocks
on page <x>) around the border to anchor.

Micro gardening Commented [ST83]: One picture

Remember everything I said about growing to harvest, not just to grow? Forget it. We don’t even have
to grow a plant to maturity to consume it. Some young produce, sprouts, contain more flavor and over
30 times the enzymes, vitamins, minerals, phytochemicals, antioxidants, carbohydrates, fats, and
protein per gram than their adult versions, making them great for weight loss since they’re low in
calories and rich in fiber and flavor (see Methods Ttable. on page <x>)

EXAMPLE: Radish sprout, 100g: 42cal, 2.5g fat, 2.5g carbs, 2.5g protein, Vitamin A 3%, Vitamin C
18%, fiber 0%, sugar 0%. Radish, 100g: 18cal, 0g fat, 4g carbs, 0g protein, Vitamin A 0%, Vitamin C
15%, 2g fiber, 2g sugar. Commented [ST84]: This may be easier to read if we put the
information in a small table.

Seeds & Nuts Commented [ST85]: One picture

Growing up, we’ve all taken for granted the benefits of sunflower, pumpkin and sesame seeds and
pecan, pistachio and peanut nuts, never knowing there’s an entire world of other seeds and nuts out
there, not carried in supermarkets. Commented [ST86]: Since the point is to teach readers how to
do everything themselves, it would be helpful to explain how we
should be approaching this topic and why it’s better than the
Soaks, Sprouts, Microgreens<insert image microgreens.fin> societal alternative. For example, what kinds of other seeds and
nuts should we consider? Where do we get them? Why are they
better than the seeds we find in supermarkets?
If you enjoy seeds and vegetables, you’ll love sprouts (‘soaks’ for nuts), microgreens and baby
greens. From seed to plant there are several stages of development: sprouts and soaks (soaked
nuts), microgreens, and baby greens. If you enjoy seeds and vegetables, you’ll love them.

Consuming sprouts, micro and baby greens are just consuming babies, infants, and adolescents,
respectively. As in human development, the egg/, or in this case, the seed, is packed full of
everything needed, passed down from mother to child for the offspring to grow healthy and strong. As
we age, those elements become deficient, and we must find new/additional sources of nutrients.
More often the not, the younger the plant is, the higher its nutritional value.

I compare the difference between young and mature plants to fresh caviar orand fast food fried fish.
But not all plants are edible young. Some are either poisonous or, although edible and tasty, furnish
better nutrient values in adulthood, not counting the energy loss (around 1100%), through traditional
farming—digging/, planting, fertilizing, watering, protecting, and harvesting.

EXAMPLE: Broccoli sprouts, 3oz: 35cal, 5g carbs, 2g protein, 4g fiber. Broccoli, 3oz: 29cal, 6g carb,
2.4 protein, 2.2g fiber. Commented [ST87]: Maybe a small table?

1. For soaks, pack nuts tightly inside a glass or plastic vessel¹², rubber band cheesecloth over the Commented [ST88]: Are we filling the jar to the brim? Or just
packing a cup or so tight in the bottom?
openingrim, then fill it with water, shake it, and dump the water out.<insert image
microgreens.1> Commented [GU89]: 3.1

NOTE: Loosely packed seeds will result in small soaks. Commented [GU90]: 3.1.5

2. Repeat four times, then refill the jar with water and soak for 30 minutes–12 hours, depending Commented [GU91]: 3.2

on the type of nut/ and their size, to activate germination.<insert image microgreens.2> Commented [ST92]: Are there any guidelines for how long to
soak the different types of nuts? For example, if it were an almond,
would you soak it for the full twelve hours? How do we know that it
has soaked long enough?
 3. Dump the water, and then store the jar upside down in a small bowl at 45° (cap down) to drain.
Keep it in partial light at room temperature.

4. Repeat the rinsing two to four times a day to promote growth, develop starch and fiber, and
prevent souring.<insert image microgreens.3> Commented [GU93]: 3.3

5. For sprouts, spread seeds out on half a paper towel (see Napkins and Paper Towels on page Commented [GU94]: 3.4, 3.5, 3.6, 3.7
<x>), fold the other side over, soak with water, and place/store inside a plastic bag to store for
several days.<insert image microgreens.6>

WARNING: Do not let seeds dry or sit in water.

6. Consume the sprouts and soaks with the seed before the first leaves (Cotyledons) unfold and
roots develop. Consume micros with roots after the first and second (true) leaves have
unfolded and midway into the third leaves unfolding, or refrigerate them to halt growth.

NOTE: Although the most popular sprouts are green leaf, herb, bean and certain cereals, all
edible nuts and seeds can be consumed at any growth stage.

WARNING: Tomato, potato, paprika, aubergine, or eggplant, rhubarb and other solanaceous
species are poisonous when consumed before maturity.

IMPORTANT: Bacteria especially love young plants. Follow the disease prevention notes (cold
temps, high DO, etc.) included; and wash before eating. Commented [ST95]: What does DO stand for?
Commented [ST96]: Are the disease prevention notes the ones
Baby greens<insert image babygreens.fin> included in the steps? Or is there a list of instructions for disease
prevention?

Baby greens are grown normally in sprouting trays (see Sprouting), but harvested 1/2–1in above root Commented [GU97]: 3.1 - 3.5

after the 2nd leaves unfold, but before full maturity. Commented [ST98]: Where is the sprouting section?

Growing Mushrooms Commented [ST99]: Since there is already another Mushroom

project in this chapter, maybe we could rename this one to
something like this?
Mushrooms are fat-free, low in calories, and filled with vitamins, antioxidants, and other nutrients.
Commented [ST100]: Finished mushroom tote, preferably
Unlike other plants, fungi don’t possess chlorophyll. They obtain their energy through nutrients in their with mushrooms.
growing media: sawdust, grain, wooden plugs, straw, wood chips, cardboard, logs, compost,
corncobs, cotton, cocoa seed hulls, and gypsum.

1. Boil a 1/4c of water; let cool. Add spores from a fruiting mushroom or a spore print and draw
off into a sterile 25–50cc syringe. Let hydrate for 3 days at room temp. Commented [ST101]: How exactly do we draw the spores off
with a syringe? Do we use water? Do we put the water on the spore
print or do we scrape spores into the water?
NOTE: To obtain a spore print, when the cap is matured, outflowing and open like an umbrella,
cut the cap off and place it gill side down on a piece of paper overnight.

2. Mix nutrient (brown rice, birdseed, wheat berry grain, etc.), vermiculite and water at 1:3:1 with
1T of gypsum per gallon.

3. Fill 3in of a sterile 6in plastic storage tote with the nutrient mix, shake the syringe to suspend
spores, and inoculate the mix by inserting the needle and pressing the plunger while slowly
withdrawing.

4. Repeat every 8in. Cover with 1/2in dry vermiculite. Place in a shoebox under the sink, or in a
closet, basement, ice chest, filing cabinet, etcor anywhere that’s dark.
 5. Check temp and RH (80°F, 100%) weekly, until white, threadlike roots colonize the entire
container, which usually takes three to four weeks.

6. For center colonization, Lleave undisturbed for 1 week after colonization (for center
colonization), then drop temps to 55–60° (45° for Enoki mushrooms) and cover with 1in potting
soil and strips of an old towel or mop¹² with ends placed inside a water bowl as wicks to carry
water to the mushrooms.

7. In 4 weeks, or when caps open, begin harvesting daily for 6 months by cutting, not pulling,
stems.

WARNING: Drafts or dry air are lethal to the mushrooms.

GREENHOUSES<INSERT IMAGE GREENHOUSES.FIN> Commented [ST102]: Is there a particular reason that

Greenhouses and Patio Gardens aren’t with the other types of
gardens?
One of the reasons gardening and farming isn’t as efficient as other methods is that in most locations,
it’s not year-round. Which by default, means you’re already producing less than half of what year-
round growers produce. By building one or several greenhouses over your garden, you’ll get 2–3
times more production.

1. Using a pipe cutter or miter saw, cut (10) 1in x 2ft scdsch. 40 PVC pipe or #6x3ft rebar (20)
SCDsch. 40 3/4in PVC electrical conduit, or 200psi (thick wall) poly pipe to 5ft and (60) to 4ft.
Prime the outside ends of all pipes along with the insides of (15) 3/4in crosses and (10) 3/4in
tees.<insert image greenhouses.2>
Commented [GU103]: 3.1, 3.2
Commented [ST104]: For simplicity, we could just put these
items, including the count and dimensions, in the materials list.

2. Layout and grade your greenhouse site, then stake (5) 1in x 2ft scdsch. 40 pipe or #6 x 3ft
rebar, 2ft deep, in-line, spaced 4ft 9/16in C.C.OC, and another (5) in a parallel line, 12–16ft Commented [GU105]: 3.3
over, depending on desired greenhouse height. 12 ft apart will result in an (8ft tall-
greenhouse, 16ft apart a 6ft tall greenhouse. respectively).

NOTE: For commercial greenhouses, grade to ≥1/8 in:12 per foot slope or more.

3. Slide a 4ft piece of PVC vertically over each rebar stake and glue 3/4in tees, (legs in T stem
pointed toward the pipes), between on top of each outside pipe and crosses fittings on all Commented [GU106]: 3.4
inside pipes, (legs left-–right).

4. cComplete the row by connecting all the center fittings with (4) 5ft horizontal pipes.<insert Commented [GU107]: 3.5, 3.6, 3.7
image greenhouses.5>

5. Then extend both lines vertically for another row on both sides.<insert image greenhouses.6>

6. and rRepeat for 5 rows (total), two on the left side, three on the right with uncapped vertical
pipes at the top.<insert image greenhouses.7>

NOTE: The hardest pipes to connect will be the top verticals into the other side’s fittings. Warm
pipe insides with a hair dryer or heat gun at a rate of 1in per 10 seconds (depending on
temperature), letting gravity form your arch. To kKeep the pipes in place while the glue dries,
using pull straps.<insert image greenhouses.8> Commented [GU108]: 3.8

NOTE: It’s easier with 5 heat guns, one per pipe, working from the bottom up.
4.7. When finished, drop a plumb bob from each top cross to center, reheating and adjusting
as needed.

5.8. Scour/ and paint each fitting with homemade or plastic spray paint. On a windless day,
Then cover the structure with a 25x21ft shade cloth, tarp, 12-mil greenhouse plastic, or shaded
Poly Tarp, centering excess material on each side.*
Note: It’s easier to cover the greenhouse on a windless day.
Commented [ST109]: Are we painting just the fittings? Is the
purpose of spray painting it to protect against UV light?
Commented [ST110]: Is there a section for homemade plastic
spray paint? If so, we can just reference the section. If not, we
probably don’t need to specify.
Commented [GU111]: 3.9, 3.10

IMPORTANT: Materials must be mildew proof, acid and tear resistant, and UVI treated.<insert Commented [GU112]: 3.11
image greenhouses.11>

6.9. To tighten the plastic up, place a 1x4x20ft metal stud or cee purlin, legs down, flat on
top of the excess flap on the ground, butted against the pipes outside of the greenhouse. With
a person every 4ft, grip and fold extra material on top of the stud or purlin, then roll it
stud/perlinup horizontally vertically, sandwiching plastic between the poles and track/purlin.
Commented [ST113]: A picture of this step would be helpful,
but we don’t need this to keep the project. We just need to be sure
the instructions are as clear as possible.
Commented [ST114]: Expand

7.10. Attach poles to the track with (2) 1 1/2in self-tapping SS stainless steel screws from
inside. On the other side, pull plastic tight and repeat.

8.11. Cut a garden hose¹² or poly pipe scraps¹² into (24) 1in sections. Split the pipe, making a
<i>C</i>, and clamp plastic around either end loop. Pull taut and repeat for the opposite end. Commented [ST115]: Which end loops? Are we wrapping the
plastic at the ends around the end pipes and clamping it down with
the C pipes?
9.12. Construct end walls, useing any material/, medium¹², or frame with metal studs/ and
tracks at the bottom (Chapter 6), see Doors for building door frames and doors. Commented [ST116]: Correct?

NOTE: Add a heat source in cold regions and a swamp cooler or vent in hot regions (Chapter
7). And add a water source to keep RH at 60–80%.