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Ecological Leather The Next Eco-Friendly Breakthrough
Ecological Leather The Next Eco-Friendly Breakthrough
Breakthrough
Human beings had been using leather since the dawn of civilization. Historical
references of leather tanning date back to 5000 (B.C.). Throughout time actual leather
tanning process used vegetable tanning. Until the end of the 19th Century, when the
use of chromium (III) to tan leather was discovered. Though carcinogenic, chrome
tanning reduced the time to tan a cowhide into 1 day. Thus, this process became very
popular for the mass production of leather. Throughout the next century until this era.
That is till this 21st century. People are now more socially and environmentally
conscious. Started caring for not just the product but also wanted to make sure they
were not harming any human or animal. Neither harming their natural habitat while
making it. This led to a realization, that is "the old ways were the gold ways". The
ancient vegetable tanning process posed less threat to health and the environment.
Thus, came the concept of Eco-Leather.
But one issue still left unaddressed. The tanning agent used in vegetable tanning is
cedar oil, alum and (the most popular) tannin. These agents are extracts from tree
barks and leaves. Pine, cypress, chestnut, oak, redoul, tanoak, hemlock, quebracho,
mangrove, wattle, cherry plum tree. All have these extracts. This sounds like a lot of
tree-cutting, doesn't it? Hence to save humanity, the animal kingdom and plant
kingdom all at the same time. I introduce to you the most eco-friendliest genuine
leather that there can be: ECOLOGICAL LEATHER.
But before I go in details about ecological leather. You need to be very clear about 2
things before you decide if you want eco-leather in your leather accessories or not.
• Recycled leather from old jackets, car seats or sofas. That would otherwise end up in a
landfill. So these are eco-leather.
• Leather that comes from organically raised cattle or sustainable fishing is eco-leather.
Killing animal solely for its skin, the leather from that skin would not be eco-leather.
• Leather is a natural resource in itself. As long as the rate of consumption is equal to the
rate of replenishment, it is an Eco Leather.
1. Chrome tanning
This is the most widely used tanning process in the world currently. Chrome salt like
chromium sulfate is used to stop hide decay. Chromium (III) is harmless and found in
nature. It is a necessary nutrient for the human body and plants as well. But in the
tanning process, the Chromium (III)
gets oxidized into Chromium (VI). Due
to high level of pH.
2. Vegetable tanning
Vegetable tanning is the actual tanning process. This is what people had been
practising from ancient times. With the rise of chrome tanning, the vegetable tanning
lost its significance. Vegetable tanning is a time-consuming process. Significant
efficiency loss in mass manufacturing. Near impossible to meet the rising demand for
leather goods.
In vegetable tanning hides are immersed in liquor made from an infusion of ground
tree bark, twigs, leaves and water. Use of tannin (a class of polyphenol astringent
chemicals) is more common these days. This suspension is then tumbled in big drums
till tanning is complete. Most widely used tanning materials are the barks of oak,
hemlock, mangrove, mallet (a kind of eucalyptus), birch, larch and pine. And extracts
from chestnut wood, mimosa, quebracho (a South American tree), myrobalans (the
fruit of an Indian tree), valonia (the acorn-cup of Levantine oak) and sumach leaves
and twigs. The choice of tanning material determines the colour, density, flexibility
and cuttability. It also determines how long will it take for the tanning.
3. Aldehyde Tanning
Aldehyde tanning produces what we call “chrome-free” leather, also known as "wet
white". Common uses of this leather are in automobile, upholstery, garments, and shoe
upper. It is often used in baby shoes as well. Formaldehyde is one of the chemicals in
the aldehyde group. This is the chemical in this process which stops leather decay.
Ecological leather tanning has brought about a revolution in the tanning process. This
is the latest tanning process to manufacture high-quality leather. It is very eco-friendly
and has very little impact on health and the environment. Ecological leather is
processed in tanneries with their on ETP (Effluent Treatment Plant). Or which falls
under the CETP (Central Effluent Treatment Plant) of Bangladesh. This treats liquid
bi-product from various unwanted chemicals.
Acids, dyes and colour, all neutralized before
releasing to the environment.
Ecological leather does not cause itching. It is also preferred to use in the products of
babies and diabetic patients. Ecological leather is softer than usual leather due to the
use of polyurethane. Using waterproof fat and lecithin fat can soften it further. And
phosphoric ester to make it even softer. Touching leather goods from Ecological
leather feels very smooth. You will feel comfort, to the max. These are also very easy to
clean and wash as the leather has a very fine surface. Ecological leather gives a unique
non-uniform colouring and beautiful surface texture.
Sustainability
Ecological leather tanning is more sustainable than any other tanning process. The
traditional tanning process causes a huge amount of leather wastes. This new process
has brought about a change in reducing the amount of leather waste. Ecological leather
tanning requires less water than a conventional tanning process. The Ecological tanned
leather is completely non-toxic due to the use of syntans. Also, it is way easier to
remove synthetic particles from water than other ions and salts. Hence 95% of the
water used can be purified or recycled.
Drawbacks
The cost of production exceeds the price of raw hides and skin used in ecological
leather tanning. The chemicals used, like syntans, are more expensive than chrome
slats. The price remains high whether low graded or high graded hide used. Hence
only high graded raw hides are used for ecological tanning. To capture the niche
luxury market. Capturing the mass market is not feasible yet.
The process required close monitoring. So engineers are constantly engaged. The
damp atmosphere and wet conditions produce the wrong output. Hence tanneries
need to be well maintained to produce ecological leather. The time of processing is
shorter than conventional tanning. But the leather needs to be hanged for a longer
period than usual. For these reasons, the price and delivery time of ecological leather
is pretty high.
Conclusion
Demand for Ecological leather is rising globally. It is already very popular in countries
like Japan and Italy. Other developed counties are going to follow through the
adoption. A safe and environment-friendly leather that needs to reach the mass. And
eventually, it will.
The core concept of sustainability is very simple. "Meeting the needs of this generation
without compromising the needs of future generations". Working for the future is so
much easier when present is ensured. Not the same when your present is in crisis.
People giving sustainable effort in a developed country and an underdeveloped
country is not the same. A group of consumers or companies from the developed
country can easily boycott a factory. Because it is damaging the environment of
Bangladesh. But for that factory, the economic implication to make that change is same
as going out of business. This is true for many small and medium factories. And many
SMEs in Bangladesh did go out of business in this way. With it, thousands of workers
went jobless and homeless.