COMPETENCY BASED LEARNING MATERIALS

Sector:
AUTOMOTIVE/LAND TRANSPORT
Qualification:
AUTOMOTIVE SERVICING NC II

Unit of Competency:
SERVICE ENGINE MECHANICAL COMPONENTS
Module Title:
SERVICING ENGINE MECHANICAL COMPONENTS
(GASOLINE FUEL SYSTEM)

Gattaran National Trade School

Palagao Norte, Gattaran Cagayan

ARNEL HERMINA JR.

09358250188
ATS Teacher
 INFORMATION SHEET 9.3-1

OPERATING PRINCIPLES OF THE CARBURETOR

LEARNING OBJECTIVES:

After reading this information sheet, you should be able to:

1. Identify the components of a carburetor;
2. Analyze the principles of operation of a basic carburetor.

THE CARBURETOR

The principles of supplying an engine with the right amounts of fuel and air
have not changed over the years. However, stricter exhaust emission laws and
the need for improved fuel economy have changed carburetor requirements.
Today’s carburetors use numerous devices to alter the air-fuel ratio with
changes in engine speed, temperature, and load.
A carburetor is basically a device for mixing air and fuel in the correct
proportions (amounts) for efficient combustion. The carburetor bolts to the
engine intake manifold. The air cleaner fits over the top of the carburetor to
trap dust and dirt.
When the engine is running, downward moving pistons on their intake
strokes produce suction in the intake manifold. Air rushes through the
carburetor and into the engine to fill this low pressure. The airflow through the
carburetor is used to meter fuel and mix it with the air.

Figure 9.3-1A: A carburetor unit used by TOYOTA

BASIC CARBURETOR PARTS

A basic carburetor consists of: (see figure 9.3.3-1B next page)

1. CARBURETOR BODY- main carburetor housing

2. BARREL- air passage containing venture, throttle valve and main

discharge tube

3. THROTTLE VALVE- airflow control valve

4. VENTURI- restriction or narrowed area inside the barrel

5. MAIN DISCHARGE TUBE- fuel passage between fuel bowl and barrel

6. FUEL BOWL-fuel storage area in body

Figure 9.3-1B: Basic parts of the carburetor

1. CARBURETOR BODY
The carburetor body is a cast metal housing for the other carburetor
components. It contains cast and drilled passage for air and fuel. (In an actual
carburetor the main discharge tube, venturi, fuel bowl and throttle valve, are
normally made as part of the carburetor body.) A flange on the bottom of the
body allows the carburetor to be bolted to the engine.

2. BARREL
The carburetor barrel, routes outside air into the engine intake manifold.
It contains the throttle valve, venturi, and outlet end of the main discharge
tube.

3. THROTTLE VALVE
The carburetor throttle valve is the disc shaped valve that controls airflow
through the barrel. It is mounted on a shaft in the lower part of the barrel.
When closed, the throttle valve restricts the flow of air and fuel into the
engine. When the throttle is opened, airflow, fuel flow, and engine power
increase.
Figure 9.3-1C shows how a car’s accelerator pedal and throttle cable
control the throttle valve. When the driver presses the accelerator pedal, the
throttle cable slides inside its housing. This swings the throttle valve open to
increase engine power and speed.

Figure 9.3-1C: Driver’s accelerator

pedal is connected to carburetor
throttle valve. Valve controls
airflow and engine power output

When the accelerator pedal is released, a throttle return spring pulls the
throttle valve closed. This returns the engine to a slow idle speed. Look at
Figure 9.3-1D and E.
 (D) (E)

Figure 9.3-1D and E: Throttle valve position control air flow and amount
in intake manifold. D—Throttle valve closed produces high vacuum in
manifold. Engine tries to draw air through carburetor, but cannot. E—
Throttle opening allows airflow, reducing vacuum intake manifold.

4. VENTURI
A venturi produces sufficient suction to draw fuel out of the main
discharge tube. Venturi action is illustrated in Figure 9.3-1F. Note how vacuum
is highest inside the venturi. The narrowed airway increase air velocity, forming
a low pressure area in the barrel

Figure 9.3-1F: The narrowed

portion of the barrel produces
venturi effect.

MAIN DISCHARGE TUBE

The main discharge tube uses
venturi vacuum to feed fuel into the
barrel and engine. Also called MAIN
FUEL NOZZLE, it is a passage in the
carburetor body that connects bowl
to the centre of the venturi. Refer to
Figure 9.3-1G. Note how main
discharge tube is located in
carburetor body.
 Figure 9.3-1G: The main discharge
tube

FUEL BOWL
The carburetor fuel bowl holds
a supply of fuel that is NOT under
the fuel pump pressure. Several
additional carburetor parts are
mounted in the fuel bowl. See figure
9.3-1H.

Figure 9.3-1G: The float bowl

contains the fuel and foater

BASIC CARBURETOR SYSTEMS

A carburetor system is a network of passages and related parts that help
control the air-fuel ratio under a specific engine operating condition. Also called
a CARBURETOR CIRCUIT, each system applies a speed, and load of the engine
change.
For example, a petrol engine’s air-fuel mixture may vary from a rich 8:1
ratio to a lean 18:1 ratio. An automotive carburetor, using its various systems,
must be capable of providing air-fuel ratios of approximately.
 1. 8:1 for cold engine starting.
2. 16:1 for idling.
3. 15:1 for part throttle.
4. 13:1 for full acceleration.
5. 18:1 for normal cruising at highway speeds.

Note: Older cars not subject to strict emission control regulations, have a
slightly richer air-fuel ratio. Late model cars have leaner carburetor settings to
help reduce exhaust pollution.

The seven basic carburetor systems are the:

1. FLOAT SYSTEM-maintains supply of fuel in carburetor bowl

2. IDLE SYSTEM-provides a small amount of fuel for low speed engine

operation

3. OFF-IDLE SYSTEM-provides correct air-fuel mixture slightly above idle

speeds

4. ACCELERATION SYSTEM-squirts fuel into barrel when throttle valve

opens and engine speed increases

5. HIGH SPEED SYSTEM-supplies lean air-fuel mixture at cruising speeds

6. FULL POWER SYSTEM-enriches fuel mixture slightly when engine

power demands are high

7. CHOKE SYSTEM-provides extremely rich air-fuel mixture for cold

engine starting

It is very important that you fully understand each of these systems. As

each system is discussed, try to draw a “mental picture” of how a carburetor
operates under the conditions described. This will help you when diagnosing
and repairing carburetor problems.

1. FLOAT SYSTEM
The float system must maintain the correct level of fuel in the carburetor
bowl. Since the carburetor uses differences in pressure to force fuel into the
barrel, the fuel in the bowl must be kept at atmospheric pressure. The float
system keeps the fuel pump from forcing too much petrol into the carburetor
bowl.

 Float system parts The basic parts of a

carburetor float system are the fuel
bowl, float, needle valve, needle seat,
bowl vent, and hinge assembly.
Study the relationship of each part.
The carburetor float rides on
top of the fuel in the bowl to open
and close the needle valve. It is
normally made of thin brass or
plastic. One end of the float hinged
to the side of the carburetor body.
The other end is free to swing up
and down.
Figure 9.3-1H. Basic parts of a
float system. Float opens and
closes needle valve as fuel level
falls and rises. Study part names.

The needle valve in the fuel bowl regulates the amount of fuel passing
through the fuel inlet and needle seat. See Figure. The needle valve is usually
made of steel. Sometimes, the end of the needle valve will have a soft (synthetic
rubber) tip. The soft tip seals better than a metal tip, especially if dirt gets
caught in the needle seat.
The carburetor float needle seat works with the needle valve and float to
control fuel flow into the bowl. It is normally a brass that threads into the
carburetor body.
A bowl vent prevents a pressure or vacuum buildup in the carburetor
fuel bowl. Without venting, pressure could form in the bowl as the fuel pump
fills the carburetor. This could also cause vacuum form in the bowl as fuel is
drawn out of the carburetor and into the engine.

 Float system operation With the engine running, the

needle valve usually lets some fuel
When engine speed or load
leak into the bowl. As a result, the
increases, fuel is rapidly drawn out
float system maintains a stable
of the fuel bowl and into the venturi.
quantity of fuel in the bowl. This is
Illustrated in Figure 9.3-1I, this
very important because the fuel level
makes the fuel level and float drop
in the bowl can affect the air-fuel
in the bowl. The needle valve also
ratio.
drops away from its seat. The fuel
pump can then force more fuel into
the bowl.
As the level in the bowl rises, the
float pushes the needle valve back
into the seat. When the fuel level is
high enough, the float closes
opening between the needle valve
and seat.
 Figure 9.3-1I: Basic operation of the float system

2. IDLE SYSTEM
A carburetor or idle system provides the engine’s air-fuel mixture at
speeds below approximately 800 rpm or 30 km/h.
When an engine is idling, the throttle valve is almost closed. Airflow
through the barrel is too restricted to produce enough vacuum in the venturi.
Venturi vacuum cannot draw fuel out of the main discharge tube. Instead, the
high intake manifold vacuum BELOW the throttle valve and a separate idle
circuit are used to feed fuel into the barrel.

 Idle system parts

The fundamental parts of a carburetor idle system include a section of
the main discharge tube, a low speed jet, idle air bleed, bypass, idle passage
economizer, idle port, and an idle mixture screw. These parts are illustrated in
Figure 9.3-1J.
The low speed jet is a restriction in the idle passage that limits maximum
fuel flow in the idle circuit. It is placed in the fuel passage before the idle air
bleed and economizer.
The idle air bleed works with the economizer and bypass to add air
bubbles to the fuel flowing to the idle port. As shown in the figure, the air
bubbles help break up or atomize the fuel. This makes the air-fuel mixture
burn more efficiently once in the engine.
The idle passage carries the mixture of liquid fuel and air bubbles to the
idle screw port.
The idle screw port is an opening into the barrel below the throttle valve.
The idle mixture screw allows adjustment of the size of the opening in the
idle screw port.

Figure 9.3-1J. Idle system feeds

fuel when throttle is closed for
low engine speed operation. High
vacuum below throttle pulls fuel
out idle port. Mixture screw
allows adjustment of mixture at
idle. Air bleed helps premix air
and fuel

Turning the idle screw IN reduces the size of the idle port and amount of
fuel entering the barrel. Turning the idle screw OUT usually increases fuel flow
and enriches the fuel mixture at idle.
Most modern carburetors have sealed idle mixture screws that are NOT
normally adjusted. The idle mixture screws are covered with metal plugs, as
pictures in Figure 9.3.3-1K. This prevents tampering with the factory setting of
the idle mixture.
The idle screw adjustment of today’s carburetors is very critical to
exhaust emissions.

 Idle system operation

For the idle system to function, the throttle valve must be closed. Then,
high intake manifold vacuum can draw fuel out of the idle circuit. Refer to
Figure 9.3-1K.
At idle, fuel flows out of the fuel bowl, through the main discharge, and
into the low speed jet. The low speed jet restricts maximum fuel flow.
At the bypass, outside air is drawn into the idle system. This partially
atomizes the fuel. As the fuel and air bubbles pass through the economizer, the
air bubbles are reduced in size to further improve mixing.
The fuel and air mixture then enters the side screw port. The setting of
the idle screw controls how much fuel enters the barrel at idle.

Figure 9.3-1K. Modern idle

mixture screws are covered with
metal plugs. This prevents
tampering which would upset
mixture and increase exhaust
emissions.

3. OFF-IDLE SYSTEM
The off-idle system, often termed the PART THROTTLE CIRCUIT, feeds
more fuel into the barrel when the throttle valve is partially open. Look at
Figure 9.3.3-1L. It is an extension of the idle system. It functions ABOVE
approximately 800 rpm (30 km/h).
Without the off-side system, the fuel mixture would become too lean
slightly above idle. The idle circuit alone is not capable of supplying enough
fuel to the airstream passing through the carburetor. The off-idle circuit helps
supply fuel during transition (change) from idle to high speed. Refer to Figure
20-12.

 Off-idle system operation

 The off-idle system begins to function when the driver presses lightly on
the accelerator pedal and cracks open the throttle valves. As the throttle valves
swing open, they expose the off-idle ports to intake manifold vacuum. Vacuum
then begins to draw fuel out of idle screw port and the off-idle ports. This
provides enough extra fuel to mix with the additional air flowing around the
throttle valves.

Figure 9.3-1L. Off-idle system feeds fuel when throttle is opened slightly.
It adds a little extra fuel to the extra air flowing around throttle valve.

4. ACCELERATION SYSTEM
The carburetor’s acceleration system, like the off-idle system, provides
extra fuel when changing from the idle circuit to the high speed circuit (main
discharge).
The acceleration system SQUIRTS a stream of extra fuel into the barrel
whenever the accelerator pedal is pressed (throttle valves swing open). This is
illustrated in Figure 9.3-1M.
Figure 9.3-1M. Accelerator pump systems squirts fuel into air horn every
time is opened. This adds fuel to rush of air entering engine and prevents
temporary lean condition. Study part names.

Without the acceleration system, too much air would rush into the
engine as the throttle is quickly opened. The mixture would become too lean for
combustion and the engine would HESITATE or STALL.

 Acceleration system parts

The basic parts of a carburetor acceleration system are the pump

linkage, accelerator pump, check ball, pump reservoir, pump check weight, and
pump nozzle. These parts are given in Figure 9.3-1N.

The accelerator pump develops the pressure to force fuel out of the pump
nozzle and into the barrel. There are two types of accelerator pumps; piston
and diaphragm. See Figures 9.3-1N and 9.3-1O.

Figure 9.3-1N: Most accelerator pump systems use mechanical linkage

from throttle lever. When driver presses accelerator pedal for acceleration,
both the throttle valve and piston pump are actuated.
Figure 9.3-1O: Cutaway view of
carburetor using a diaphragm type
accelerator pump

fuel into the barrel when the car

accelerates.
 Acceleration system
operation Figure 9.3-1P shows an
auxiliary acceleration system. It
When the driver presses the
supplements the main acceleration
accelerator pedal, the throttle valves
system when the engine is cold.
swing open. This causes the
accelerator pump piston or
diaphragm to compress the fuel in
the pump reservoir.
Accelerator pump pressure
closes the pump check ball and fuel
flows toward the pump check
weight. Pressure lifts the pump
check weight off its seat and fuel
squirts into the carburetor barrel, as
it from a TOY SQUIRT GUN.
A spring is used on the
accelerator pump assembly to
produce smooth, steady flow of fuel
out the pump nozzle. Throttle Figure 9.3-1P: Auxiliary
opening compresses the spring. accelerator pump system is
Then the compressed spring pushes sometimes used to aid
on the pump piston to pressure the conventional mechanical pump
fuel and produce prolonged fuel system. Thermal-vacuum valve is
flow. open when engine is cold. This
As the accelerator pedal is allows engine vacuum to operate
released, the pump piston or vacuum-operated accelerator
diaphragm retracts. This closes the pump
discharge check weight and opens
the pump check ball. Fuel flows out
of the bowl to refill the accelerator
pump reservoir. The system is then
ready to spray another stream of

5. HIGH SPEED SYSTEM METERING SYSTEM, supplies the

engine’s air-fuel mixture at normal
The carburetor’s high speed
cruising speeds, Figure 9.3-1Q.
system, also called MAIN
This circuit begins to function when
the throttle valves are open wide
enough for venturi action. Airflow
through the carburetor must be
relatively high for venturi vacuum to
draw fuel out of the main discharge
tube.
The high speed system
provides the leanest, most fuel
efficient air-fuel ratio. It functions
from about 30 to 90 km/h or 2000
to 3000 rpm.
Figure 9.3-1Q High speed system
is simple. Main jet control fuel
flow and mixture. At consists of a
high speed jet, main discharge
passage, emulsion tube, air bleed,
and venturi.

High speed system operation

When engine speeds is high enough, airflow through the carburetor
forms a high vacuum in the venturi. The vacuum draws fuel through the main
metering system.
Fuel flows through the main jet which meters the amount of petrol
entering the circuit. Then, the fuel flows into the main discharge tube and
emulsion tube.
The emulsion tube causes air form the air bleed to mix with the fuel. The
fuel, mixed with air, is finally drawn out of the main nozzle (main discharge
tube) and into the engine.
 6. FULL POWER SYSTEM
The carburetor full power system provides a means of enriching the fuel
mixture for high speed, high power conditions. This circuit operates, for
example, when the driver presses the accelerator pedal to pass another vehicle
or to climb a steep hill. A simplified illustration of a full power system is given
in Figure 9.3-1R.

Figure 9.3-1R: High speed-full power system enriches high speed circuit
when needed. When the accelerator pedal is pushed down for full power,
throttle linkage acts on metering rod linkage. Metering rod is lifted out of
main jet to add more fuel to the mixture.
The full power system is usually an addition to the main metering
system. Either a metering rod or a power valve (jet) can be used to provide a
variable, high speed air-fuel ratio.

 Metering rod action

A metering rod is a stepped rod that moves in and out of the main jet to
alter fuel flow.
 As shown in Figure 9.3-1S, when the metering rod is down inside the jet,
flow is restricted and a leaner fuel mixture results. When the metering rod is
pulled out of the jet, more fuel can flow through the system to enrich the
mixture for more power output.

Figure 9.3-1R: Metering rod action.

A—Metering rod lowered into jet.
Less fuel can flow through jet,
leaning mixture. B—Metering rod
pulled out of jet. This allows more
fuel flow through jet, enriching
mixture.

Either mechanical linkage or engine vacuum can be used to operate a

metering rod
The metering rod can be linked to the throttle lever. Then, whenever the
throttle is opened wide, the linkage lifts the metering rod out of the jet.
A metering rod controlled by engine vacuum is connected to a
diaphragm. At steady speeds, power demands are low and engine vacuum is
high. The opposite is true under heavy power demands (wide open throttle);
intake manifold vacuum drops. This vacuum-load relationship is ideal for
controlling a metering rod or power valve.

 Power valve action

A power valve, also known as an ECONOMISER VALVE, performs the

same function as a metering rod; it provides a variable high speed fuel mixture.
A power valve consists of a fuel valve, a vacuum diaphragm, and a spring.
Look at Figure 9.3-1T. The spring holds the power valve in the normally
open position. A vacuum passage runs to the power valve diaphragm. When the
power valve is open, it serves as an extra jet that feeds fuel into the high speed
circuit.

Figure 9.3-1T: Power valve serves

same function as metering rod. It
enriches mixture under high load,
low intake manifold vacuum
conditions. When vacuum is low,
spring opens power valve. Extra
fuel can then flow through valve
and into main discharge.

When the engine is cruising at normal highway speeds, engine intake

manifold vacuum is high. This vacuum acts on the power valve diaphragm and
pulls the fuel valve closed, figure below. No additional fuel is added to the main
metering system under normal driving conditions.

Figure 9.3-1U: Power valve action. (Left)—High vacuum, low power output
closes power valve by pulling on diaphragm. No extra fuel enters main
system. (Right)—Engine power output is high, causing intake manifold
vacuum to drop. This allows spring to open power valve for more power

CHOKE SYSTEM
The choke system is designed to supply an extremely rich air-fuel ratio to
aid cold engine starting.
For the fuel mixture to burn properly, the fuel entering the intake
manifold must atomize and vaporize. When the engine is cold, the fuel entering
the intake tends to condense into a liquid. As a result, not enough fuel vapors
enter the combustion chambers and the engine could miss or stall when cold. A
choke is used to prevent this lean condition.

 Choke system parts

 A choke system has a choke valve (plate), thermostatic spring, and other
parts depending upon choke design. See Figure 9.3-1V.

Figure 9.3-1V: Basic choke system

parts. Thermostatic spring is main
control of choke operation. When
engine is cold, spring closes choke.
High vacuum below choke pulls
large amount of fuel out of main
discharge. When engine warms, hot
air causes spring to open choke.
Vacuum piston cracks choke upon
engine starting to prevent flooding.

The choke valve is a butterfly (disc)

type valve located near the top of the
carburetor barrel.
When the choke valve is
closed, it blocks normal airflow
through the carburetor. This causes
high intake manifold vacuum to
form below the choke valve. Vacuum
pulls on the main discharge tube
even though air is not flowing
through the venturi. Fuel is drawn
out to prime the engine with extra
fuel.

SELF-ASSESSMENT 9.3-1

MULTIPLE CHOICE

DIRECTIONS
1. Read each statement carefully.
2. This is a multiple choice type of test. Choose the correct or the best
answer and write ONLY THE LETTER that corresponds to your choice
on the space provided before each item.
3. Avoid erasures, make your module neat and clean. Good luck!

___1. What is the function of the A. to mix air and fuel

carburetor? B. to mix air and fuel at the right
amount
C. to add power to the engine
 D. to prolong engine life

___2. The restriction or narrowed area A. venturi

inside the barrel of a carburetor. B. main discharge nozzle
C. throttle
D. fuel bowl

___3. When this valve inside the A. control valve

carburetor opens, engine power B. intake valve
increases.
C. exhaust valve
D. throttle valve

___4. Air-fuel ratio for cold engine A. 8 : 1

starting. B. 16 : 1
C. 15 : 1
D. 13 : 1
___5. This system provides a small A. off-idle system
amount of fuel for low speed engine
operation. B. idle system
C. low idle system
D. minimum idle system
___6. This system enriches fuel A. full power system
mixture slightly when engine power
demands are high. B. acceleration system
C. high speed system
D. power system

___7. This system is used especially in A. choke system

the morning when the engine requires B. acceleration system
a richer mixture for easy starting.
C. rich mixture system
D. lean mixture system

___8. The correct level of fuel in the A. fuel bowl

carburetor bowl is maintained by this B. floater
system.
C. float system
D. fuel system

___9. This part is directly operated by A. accelerator system

the driver to activate the carburetor. B. accelerator pedal
C. accelerator cable
D. accelerator mechanism
___10. It provides a lean air-fuel A. high speed system
mixture at cruising speeds. B. acceleration system
C. full power system
D. lean air-fuel system

SCORE:

Trainee’s Signature: Date:

Facilitator’s Signature: Date:

JOB SHEET#9.3-2

OVERHAULING CARBURETOR

PERFORMANCE OBJECTIVES:
After reading this job sheet, you must be able to:
1. Prepare appropriate the tools, materials, and equipment needed in
overhauling carburetor;
2. Clean and inspect carburetor parts as per service manual
instructions;
3. Overhaul carburetor as per service procedure;
4. Apply occupational safety and health standards.

SUPPLIES/MATERIALS, TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT:

EQUIPMENT:
1. PPE
2. Air compressor
 3. Container
TOOLS:
1. Basic Hand tools
2. Soft brush
MATERIALS:
1. Learning media (module, service manual, related books, computer set,
CDs)
2. Cleaning solvent
3. Repair kit
4. Sealant
5. Rags

NOTE: Read this procedure completely before starting

CARBURETOR REMOVAL

PROCEDURE:

1. Before removing the carburetor, check the operation of the idle solenoid
valve. Remove the wire from it, then turn on the ignition (do not start the
car). Touch the wire to the electrical connector on the idle solenoid valve.
You should hear a distinct "click." If you hear the click, the valve is okay --
otherwise, it must be replaced. Turn the ignition off.

2. Disconnect the hoses and blow-by tube from the oil filler to the air cleaner,
then remove the air cleaner and set it aside.

3. Detach the fuel hose from the carburetor and quickly plug it to minimize
fuel leakage (a pencil works great for this).

4. Detach vacuum hoses if you have them; if you have no vacuum hoses,
remove the caps from the vacuum ports on the carburetor.

5. Disconnect the wire to the automatic choke heating element ( #40 in the
exploded illustration)

6. Disconnect the wire to the electromagnetic cutoff valve (#16 in the

exploded illustration).

7. Loosen the screw in the accelerator cable barrel clamp; pull the cable
forward out of the pin. Stow the cable barrel clamp and screw in a safe
 place so you can find them later (small parts).

8. Remove the distributor cap to provide access, then remove the two nuts
(13mm) from the studs on the carburetor flange. Make sure to have the
front nut brightly lit so you can see what you're doing.

9. Remove the carburetor and gasket; there will be a new gasket in your kit,
but try to maintain the integrity of the old gasket, "just in case." Stow the
two nuts in a safe place.

10. Put a rag into the open intake manifold to keep foreign material out.
 Carburetor Nomenclature

Ref. Ref.
Part Part
No. No.

Fillister head screw and lock Accelerator pump diaphram

1 23
washer (upper body (5) spring

2 Spring washer 24* Accelerator pump diaphram

3 Carburetor upper part 25 Cotter pin

1-mm (.040 in.) thick washer

4* Float valve washer 26
(2)

5* Float valve 27 Connecting rod spring

6* Gasket, carburetor body 28 Connecting link

7* Float pin retainer 29 Adjustable bell crank

8 Float and pivot pin 30 Circlip

Air correction jet with

9 31 Adjusting segment
emulsion tube

10 Carburetor body 32 Accelerator pump cover

11 Pilot air drilling 33 Screw

12 Auxiliary air drilling 34 Pilot jet

 13 Bypass screw 35 Vacuum diaphram cover

14 Main jet cover plug 36 Oval head screw (3)

15* Main jet cover plug seal 37 Vacuum diaphragm spring

16 Electromagnetic cutoff valve 38* Vacuum diaphragm

17 Main jet 39 Plastic cap

Volume control screw and O-

18 40 Choke heating element
ring

19 Fast idle lever 41 Cover retaining ring

20 Throttle valve lever 42 Retaining ring spacer (3)

21 Throttle return spring 43 Small fillister head screw (3)

22 Accelerator pump injector    

*Included in the tune-up kit.

CARBURETOR DISASSEMBLY

PROCEDURE:
1. Use the exploded view as a guide. The numerical sequence shown there
can generally be followed to disassemble the unit far enough to permit
cleaning and inspection.
Note: You will be removing a number of small parts in this process.
Work with extra care!
2. Having a small container (like a half-pint glass jar) at ready, remove the
main jet plug on the left side of the carburetor and drain the gasoline out
of the carburetor bowl into your container. Stow the plug where you can
 find it.

3. Remove the five fillister-head screws that hold the upper part of the
carburetor (3) to the body (10) and remove the upper part. Remove the
gasket; your carburetor kit should have a new one, but again, try to
remove the old gasket carefully. You can still use it just in case you have
bought the wrong repair kit.

4. Remove the float needle valve (5) from the underside of the upper part of
the carburetor. There should be a new one in your kit. This valve gets a lot
of work -- you should always replace it.

Note: Compare the new float valve with the old one. They MUST be
the exactly the same!

5. For future reference (i.e., reassembly), note the arrangement of the float
pin retainer (7) and the float pivot pin (8) relative to the float (8); remove
the float assembly and store away carefully. There will be a new pin
retainer (7) in your kit; be sure to note which way it goes (see the exploded
view). The bow in the retainer MUST be pointing toward the front of the
car (i.e., toward the fan shroud).

6. Remove the electromagnetic cutoff valve (16) from the left side of the
carburetor with a 17mm wrench.
7. Remove the bypass screw (13) and the volume control screw (18) from the
left side of the carburetor.
Note: The manuals say that you should not remove the volume
control screw, as it is set at the factory. If you are servicing an old
carburetor, you need to remove the volume control screw for it to be
cleaned. For easier installation, count the number of turns when you
remove it.
8. Inspect the O-rings on the bypass screw and the volume control screw for
wear. If they are defective, replace them.

9. Reach through the jet plug hole (main jet cover plug (14) which was
removed previously) with a screwdriver and remove the main jet (17). The
size of the jet is stamped on the top. You may want to change the jet size
in accordance with your preference.

10. Remove the air correction jet (9)(it screws out vertically).

11. Remove the pilot jet (34) (sometimes called the "idle" jet) from the right
side of the carburetor. Remove the little cover and jet that are at the ten-
o'clock position from the pilot jet.

12. Remove the various other jets and adjustment screws from the
carburetor body and store them away carefully. You will clean these and
replace them. Inspect all jets, adjustment screws, and the holes they came
from for wear.
 CAUTION: Brass tube type jets are not removable.

13. Disassemble the accelerator pump (32) and linkage (28) by removing
the four screws (33). There will be a new accelerator pump diaphragm (24)
in your kit.

14. Check the throttle valve shaft assembly for lateral movement (side-to-
side) in the throttle shaft. If you find such movement, the shaft hole is out-
of-round and you will be getting air in-leakage. This is very serious; it is
likely that the rest of the carburetor isn't in very good condition. If you
discover this problem, it is better to buy a new carburetor.

Note: Some auto parts supplier can offer you a complete rebuild at
a competitive price.
15. Disassemble the automatic choke assembly (40) by removing the three
screws (43) in the cover retaining ring (41). Be careful to make sure the
three retaining ring spacers (42) will not be lost.

16. Remove the choke vacuum diaphragm cover (35) by removing the three
oval-head screws (36).

17. Remove the vacuum diaphragm (38) and spring (37)

CARBURETOR CLEANING

PROCEDURE:

1. Cleaning must be done with carburetor disassembled.

2. Soak parts all metal parts in carburetor cleaning solvent (or lacquer
thinner) long enough to soften and remove all foreign material. Use an old
toothbrush to clean the carburetor body.

CAUTION: Always wear safety glasses when using cleaning

solvents or compressed air. Do not allow cleaning solvent to come
in contact with skin. When using compressor, be sure to hold the
parts, they may fly when hit by the air.

Note: Do not soak the choke heating element, pump diaphragm,

float, vacuum diaphragm, or any other rubber or plastic parts in
carburetor solvent.

 Make certain the throttle body (carburetor throat, etc.) is free of all hard
carbon deposits. Wash off in suitable solvent, like lacquer thinner, which
is basically toluene.
  Blow out all passages in castings with compressed air. Check
carefully to ensure thorough cleaning of obscure areas. Do NOT use a
wire or similar object to "clean" orifices!
 Make sure all jet orifices are clean and free of obstructions, using
compressed air. Again, DO NOT use wire or other objects to clean the
jets!
3. Prepare parts for re-assembly.

CARBURETOR RE-ASSEMBLY

Reassembly of the carburetor is essentially the reverse order of

disassembly, giving special attention to the special instructions below.

Replace the Following Parts

 Accelerator pump diaphragm (24)

 Choke vacuum diaphragm (38)
 Float needle valve and gasket (4 & 5) (See note below.)
 Float pin retainer (7)
 Carburetor body-to-cover gasket (6)
 Main jet plug seal (15)
 Volume control screw O-ring (18)
 Carburetor-to-intake manifold gasket

RE-ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTION:

PROCEDURE:

1. Check the float valve for binding and leakage. It should not be possible to
blow air through the valve while the needle is pressed lightly onto its seat.

2. Check the float for leaks by immersing it in hot water. If bubbles appear,
replace the float.

3. Check the float lever for a worn spot (depression) where it makes contact
with the fuel inlet needle valve. Replace the float assembly, if necessary.
4. The proper float valve washer (4) must be used for the specific type of
carburetor.

Note: It is very important that you install the correct needle seat
gasket. This gasket sets the fuel height in the float bowl; erratic
behavior may result if the gasket is not correct.

Important note regarding the float valve in SOME carburetor:

The float valve in some carburetor has a spring-loaded ball

bearing in the end of the needle that impinges on the float. This
little ball bearing MUST be in place. If it's not, the float bowl will
overfill through the bowl vent down the throat of the carburetor,
causing the fuel/air mixture to be WAY too rich - and of course the
exhaust will spew out a lot of black smoke and the engine will
not run.
4. Install the float pin retainer with the bow facing the front of the car (i.g.,
toward the fan shroud).

5. When installing the accelerator pump diaphragm (24) and spring, (23)
make sure the larger end of spring is properly seated in the carburetor body
cavity. Be sure to install the diaphragm with plunger toward pump cover.
(See the exploded view.)

6. Be sure to use the correct body joint gasket; there will probably be several
in your kit. Use the old one for comparison.

7. Check the electric heating element (40) in the automatic choke housing for
damage. If it is broken, distorted or "kinked", replace the assembly. The
element can be checked with an ohmmeter or connected to a correct voltage
battery for a few minutes to see if it warms up. (Be sure to ground the inside
metal part of the housing in order to complete the circuit.)

8. When installing the choke assembly with spring and heater element,
carefully rotate the assembly counterclockwise, making sure that the hook on
coil end engages with the lever on choke shaft. Continue rotating
approximately 1/8 turn more until the index marks align. Then, making sure
the three retaining ring spacers are in place, tighten three retaining ring
screws securely.

9. Turn the volume control screw (18) in until it seats lightly, then back it out
2-1/2 to 3 turns. The bypass screw (13) will have to be adjusted to give the
proper idle with the engine running.

CARBURETOR INSTALLATION
PROCEDURE:

1. Install in reverse order of removal.

2. Lightly lubricate the choke valve shaft and throttle valve shaft with engine
oil and the external linkage with molybdenum grease.
3. Using a new gasket, install the carburetor on the intake manifold flange.
Note: You will notice that the flange holes on the intake manifold which
the carburetor rests on are slotted. This is so you can move the
carburetor back and forth a bit (front-to-back) to assure that the
accelerator pump linkage on the right side of the carburetor clears both
the fan shroud at the front and the alternator body at the back. Both
clearances are essential; if the accelerator pump linkage rubs on either
end, the throttle lever will not be able to return all the way to the stepped
cam, the result being an excessively high idle that cannot be controlled
with the bypass screw.
4. Torque the retaining nuts on the bolts protruding through the intake
manifold flange to 14 ft-lb using a torque wrench. Be careful that you
don't tighten these nuts too much -- you may strip the stud out of the
base of the carburetor.

5. Secure the fuel hose to the inlet nozzle on the carburetor with a new hose
clamp.

6. Pass the end of the accelerator cable through the cable pivot pin installed
in the throttle lever. Pull it back tight (with the idle screw against the
lowest step on the cam) and snug down the screw. You can use a small
needle-nose vise grip to hold the end of the cable to the throttle lever while
tightening the screw with your other hand).

7. The carburetor is now properly installed.

LEARNING OUTCOME #4 PERFORMING CARBURETOR

ADJUSTMENT

CONTENTS:
1. Adjustments in carburetors;
2. Procedure in adjusting carburetors;
3. Specifications in carburetor adjustment

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:

1. Appropriate tools are used in adjusting carburetors

 2. Carburetor adjustment specifications is obtained according to
repair manual
3. Adjusted carburetor according to required procedure
CONDITION: Students/Trainees must be provided with the following:

WORKPLACE:
1. Learning resource area
2. Workstation

EQUIPMENT/TOOLS:
1. Gasoline engine mock-up (carbureted)
2. Hand tools
3. PPE

MATERIALS:
1. Learning media (module, service manual, computer set,
CDs, Related books)

METHODOLOGIES:

1. Self-paced instruction
2. Demonstration

ASSESSMENT METHOD:
1. Practical demonstration

LEARNING EXPERIENCES

LEARNING OUTCOME #4: PERFORMING CARBURETOR

ADJUSTMENT

LEARNING ACTIVITIES SPECIAL INSTRUCTION

 If you have some problem on
the content of the
information sheet don’t
1. Perform job sheet #9.4-1 hesitate to approach your
facilitator
ADJUSTING ENGINE IDLE SPEED  If you feel that you are now
kn owledgeable on the
content of the information
sheet you can now answer
self-check provided in the
 module
 Compare your answers to
Answer key #9.1-1
 Evaluate your own work
using the performance
criteria checklist

JOB SHEET#9.4-1

ADJUSTING ENGINE IDLE SPEED

PERFORMANCE OBJECTIVES:

After reading this job, you must be able to:

1. Use appropriate tools in adjusting engine idle speed;
2. Adjust carburetor to specification;
3. Apply occupational safety and health standards in the workplace.

SUPPLIES/MATERIALS, TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT:

EQUIPMENT:
1. PPE
2. Gasoline engine (carbureted)

TOOLS:
1. Tachometer
2. Screw drivers
3. Feeler gauge

MATERIALS:
1. Learning media (module, service manual, related books, computer set)
2. Clean rags
PROCEDURE:

Note: The correct idle speed adjustment is important with any carburetor, which
is a complicated part for any gasoline engine. Some late carburetors have three
separate fuel circuits in them (only two in older carburetors), and the 850-900
rpm idle is designed so the airflow through the carburetor is balanced for the idle
circuit fuel flow. That's why it has both Volume and Bypass screws in the side
(the earlier ones had only Volume screw), located on the left side of the
carburetor. This way the idle speed can be set correctly using the Bypass screw
without touching the screw on the throttle arm, which has to be set exactly right.

Refer to the exploded view as you go on.

1. Make sure that all the hoses are in place and the gasket at the base of the
carburetor is sealing properly (no vacuum leak).

2. Install the air cleaner

3. Turn on the engine and run it until it is warm, then switch it off.

4. The first step is to set the throttle plate. Back off the Fast Idle Adjuster
(also called the throttle screw) located at the top of the throttle arm. You
will find the throttle arm on the left side of the carburetor, connected at
the bottom to the accelerator cable, which runs forward to the accelerator
pedal.
Note: Fast Idle Adjuster is NOT used to adjust the idle speed. The Fast Idle
Adjuster works with the choke to give a smooth idle on a cold engine. As the
choke warms (in concert with the warming engine, hopefully) the butterfly
valve in the throat of the carburetor opens and the Fast Idle Adjuster screw
moves down the steps of the choke fast idle cam, reducing the engine idle
speed. Screwing the Fast Idle Adjuster screw in more will increase the idle
speed, but doing so messes up the Volume Control and Bypass Screw
adjustments. This destroys the idle geometry, and the car won't run right.

5. With the choke held in the full open position (stepped cam at its lowest
point), place a 0.003" feeler gauge between the lowest step of the choke
fast idle cam and the Fast Idle Adjuster screw.

6. Slowly turn the screw in until you feel drag on the feeler gauge. Then
remove feeler gauge and turn the screw in precisely 1/2 turn - no more!
This sets the throttle butterfly open the required 0.004", so you can use
the Bypass Screw to set the idle speed correctly. From this point on, leave
the Fast Idle Adjuster screw alone.
7. Next set the volume of gas available at idle speeds. This is done using the
Volume Control Screw. Please note that the Volume Control Screw
controls the AIR volume, not the fuel volume. Screwing it in reduces
the air and makes the fuel/air mixture richer. And of course turning
the Volume Control Screw out increases the concentration of air and
makes the mixture leaner.
Note: The Volume Control Screw is the smaller of the two adjusting screws,
located on the left side of the carburetor just above the Idle Cutoff solenoid
(which has a black wire from the positive side of the coil attached to it). The
Volume Control Screw is NOT used to set the idle speed - that's the job of the
Bypass Screw.
Note: Before setting the Volume Control Screw per the step below, turn the
Bypass Screw (the larger one) out a couple of turns, just to get things
started.

8. Screw the Volume Control Screw in GENTLY until it sits. Never screw it in
tightly; you will destroy the seat. Now unscrew it exactly 2-1/2 turns. This
is the initial setting.
Note: Be sure that the Volume Control Screw firmly seated, you may have
trouble adjusting the idle with the Bypass Screw if it does not properly
seated. This condition will cause stumbling on acceleration if not corrected.

9. With the Volume Control Screw out 2-1/2 turns, start the engine and let it
warm up. (Make sure the choke is fully open.)

10. Now to set the idle. This is done by controlling the volume of air going by
the Bypass Screw. The Bypass Screw is larger than the Volume Control
Screw and is located a little above and to the left of the Volume Screw.
Note: Again, the idle speed is NOT set with the Fast Idle Adjuster on the top of
the throttle arm as it is on the older carburetors - though its name (Fast Idle
Adjuster) would lead you to think that it is used to set the idle. It is not used to
set the idle.
11. Connect a tachometer to the engine as detailed in the manufacturer's
instructions.

 On models having a conventional ignition system, one lead (usually

black) goes to a good chassis ground. The other lead (usually red) goes to
the distributor primary side of the coil (the terminal with small wire
running to the distributor body).

 On models with transistorized ignition, connect one lead (usually black)

of the tachometer to a good chassis ground. Connect the other lead
(usually red) to the negative (-) coil terminal, NOT to the distributor or
positive (+) side. Connecting the tachometer to the wrong side will
damage the switching transistor.

12. As a starting point, turn the idle Bypass Screw out to set the idle at 850
rpm (fast idle). For a semi-automatic car, use 900 rpm. It is better to start
 from a little bit higher rpm going down than to start from low rpm up.

13. With the engine warmed up and the choke fully open, go back to the
Volume Screw and adjust it slowly to obtain the fastest (smoothest
running) idle speed (this is usually out - counter-clockwise). You should
not turn the screw out much outside the range of 2-3 turns (1/2 turn
in/out from the basic 2-1/2 turn out setting).

14. Then turn the Volume Control screw back IN (clockwise) very slowly until
the engine speed drops by about 20-30 rpm (slightly leaner). Look at your
tachometer. If you don't have a tachometer, listen until you can just hear
the engine speed start to drop, maybe as little as 1/8th turn on the
Volume Screw.
15. Go back to the larger Bypass screw again to reset the idle speed to 850
- 900rpm. (Again, the fast idle is better than too slow. You want it just a
little on the rich side. Too slow of an idle speed can cause the engine to
overheat.)

Note: If you find it difficult or impossible to make these settings, it is

possible that you could have stripped threads on any of these adjusters,
a damaged hole for the tapered screw, or a damaged needle valve or O-
ring.

It is also possible that you have a vacuum leak (i.e., leaking of air into
the intake manifold). If there are any holes in the manifold or at any of
the connection points, then air can be sucked into the manifold, causing
the fuel-to-air mixture to become too lean. This can cause (among other
things) adjustment of the carburetor impossible.

DEFINITION OF TERMS

1. Actuator- a control device that delivers mechanical action. In the mechanical

fuel pump, this is called actuating lever.
2. Air cleaner- a device connected at the top of the carburetor to filter incoming
air, making it clean before it mixes with the fuel.
3. Air pump- a device to produce a flow of air higher than atmospheric
pressure.
4. Ambient air- temperature of air surrounding an object.
5. Atomization- the stage in which the metered air-fuel emulsion is drawn into
the air stream in the form of tiny droplets. Atomized mixture is combustible.
6. Camshaft- the component in the engine that opens and closes the valves. It
also operates the mechanical fuel pump.
7. Carburetor- a fuel delivery device that mixes fuel and air to the proper ratio
to produce a combustible mixture.
8. Compression stroke- the second stroke of the four stroke engine cycle, in
which the piston moves from bottom dead center and the intake valves
close. This traps and compresses the air-fuel mixture in the cylinder.
9. Detonation- as used in automobiles indicates a hasty burning or explosion
of the mixture in the engine cylinders. It becomes audible through vibrations
of the combustion chamber walls and is sometimes confused with a ping or
spark knock.
10. Diaphragm- a flexible, impermeable membrane on which pressure acts to
produce mechanical movements. In the mechanical fuel pump, the
diaphragm creates pressure.
11. Ethanol- a widely used gasoline additive known for its abilities as an
octane enhancer.
12. Filler neck- a tube fitted to the fuel tank that allows fuel to be added from
a remote location.
13. Flooding- a condition in which excess, unvaporized fuel in the intake
manifold prevents the engine from starting.
14. Fuel filter- a device located in the fuel line to remove impurities from the
fuel before it enters the carburetor or injector system.
15. Fuel gauge- a gauge that indicates the amount of fuel remaining in the
tank.
16. Fuel pressure regulator- a device designed to limit the amount of
pressure buildup in a fuel delivery system.
17. Fuel pump- a mechanical or electrical device used to move fuel from the
fuel tank to the carburetor or injectors.
18. Gasket- a thin layer of material or composition that is placed between
two mating surfaces to provide a leak-proof seal between them.

19. Gum- in automotive fuels, gum refers to oxidized petroleum products

that accumulate in the fuel system, carburetor, or engine parts.
20. Heptane- a standard reference fuel with an octane number of zero,
meaning that it knocks severely in an engine.
21. Hydrocarbons- particles of gasoline present in the exhaust and in
crankcase vapors that have not been fully burned.
22. Ignitability- the property of a liquid with a flash point below 140 F (60 C).
23. Isooctane- a standard reference fuel with an octane number of 100,
meaning that it does not knock in an engine.
24. Jet- a precisely-sized, calibrated hole in a hollow passage through which
fuel and air can pass.
25. Lean- an air-fuel mixture that has more air than is required.
26. Octane number- a unit of measurement on a scale intended to indicate
the tendency of a fuel to detonate or knock.
27. Oxidation inhibitor- gasoline additives used to promote gasoline stability
by controlling gum and deposit formation and staleness.
28. Rich- an air-fuel mixture that has more fuel than is required.
29. Stoichiometric- chemically correct. An air-fuel mixture is considered
stoichiometric when it is neither too rich nor too lean. Stoichiometric ratio is
14.7:1, that is 14.7 parts of air for every 1 part of fuel.
30. Vapor- a substance in gaseous state. Liquid becomes a vapor when
brought above the boiling point.

WRITTEN EXAMINATION

TRUE OR FALSE

Directions
Read and analyze each statement carefully. Write TRUE if the statement
is CORRECT, and write FALSE if it is WRONG. Write your answer on the space
provided after each item. Good luck!
1. _____ The chemical symbol for gasoline is C8H16, which indicates that each
molecules of gasolines contains 8 carbon atoms and 16 hydrogen atoms.
2. _____ The lower the octane rating, the lesser of a tendency the engine has to
knock.
3. _____ Two methods are used for determining the octane number of gasoline:
the Motor Octane Number (MON) method and the Research Octane Number
(RON) method.
4. _____The one displayed on gasoline pumps is the Antiknock Index (AKI). It
is the average of RON and MON.
5. _____ A lean mixture burns slower than a rich mixture
6. _____ To reduce corrosion caused by sulfuric acid, the sulfur content in
gasoline is limited to less than 0.01%.
7. _____ Methanol is the most widely used gasoline additive today.
8. _____ Blending 10% ethanol into gasoline result in an increase of 2.5 to 3
octane points.
9. ___Do not over-fill a container. Leave 10% extra space to allow for
expansion.
10. ___ Gasoline vapors are flammable, heavier than air, and can travel long
distances to an ignition source.
11. ___Refueling can always be done without turning the engine off.
12. ___ Drain tanks only in well-ventilated areas, preferably outdoors.

MULTIPLE CHOICE

DIRECTIONS
1. Read each statement carefully.
2. This is a multiple choice type of test. Choose the correct or the best
answer and write ONLY THE LETTER that corresponds to your choice
on the space provided before each item.
3. Avoid erasures, make your module neat and clean. Good luck!

___1. These pumps can be placed A. automatic fuel pump

anywhere in the car, but work best B. mechanical fuel pump
when they are installed near fuel
tanks. Newer fuel pumps of this type C. electric fuel pump
are often located within the fuel tanks D. in-line fuel pump
themselves.
___2. Mechanical fuel pumps are A. 4 to 6 psi
manufactured to operate at these
pressures. B. 2 to 3 psi
C. 6 to 8 psi
D. 8 to 10 psi

___3. The biggest difference between a A. temperature output

mechanical fuel pump and electric B. pressure output
fuel pump.
C. volume output
D. power output

___4. Mechanical fuel pumps are A. fuel injection type

commonly used with this type of fuel B. port injection type
system.
C. direct injection type
D. carbureted type

___5. This is installed between the A. oil seal

mechanical fuel pump and the engine B. gasket
block to prevent oil leakage.
C. spacer
D. washer

___6. It delivers fuel to the carburetor A. electric pump

only when it is needed for the B. positive fuel pump
requirements of the engine. C. non-positive fuel pump
D. automatic fuel pump

___7. All of the following are locations A. inside the fuel tank
where electric fuel pumps can be B. as a part of the fuel pick-up
installed except one. sending unit
C. in line between tank and engine
D. in the engine

___8. This part of the fuel pump A. intake valve

keeps the fuel from draining out of B. outlet valve
the fuel line when the pump is not in
operation. C. check valve
D. control valve

___9. Impeller-type electric fuel A. main fuel line

pumps are located in this part of the B. inside the fuel tank
fuel system.
C. in the engine
D. in the carburetor

___10. Which of the following is not a A. leaking check valve

cause of low fuel pump pressure? B. ruptured diaphragm
C. weak diaphragm spring
D. inoperative pressure relief valve
(stuck closed)

ESSAY:
Why do we need to Service the Gasoline Fuel System
What is the importance of Servicing Gasoline System