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A Novel Standard For Footwear Industrial Machineries: IEEE Transactions On Industrial Informatics November 2011
A Novel Standard For Footwear Industrial Machineries: IEEE Transactions On Industrial Informatics November 2011
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Abstract—Economic globalization has scattered industrial pro- offering low-cost labor, and high-quality products are still made
duction, promoting manufacturing models able to chase the most in historical districts, where, however, a wider industrialization
favorable conditions in the widened international scenario. In- and automation should be introduced to reduce the too expen-
terorganizational communication becomes thus a critical element
for production streamline, being the bridge that creates conti- sive craft-made contribute. The footwear sector is a good ex-
nuity among industrial districts. However, many sectors still lack ample of this trend [5], [6].
proper communication standards, thus slowing the production The growing relevance of Inter-Organizational Systems
and increasing its costs. The footwear manufacturing industry es- (IOS), especially in the case of industrial districts, has raised
pecially suffers from this condition, having chronically promoted much attention both in the academic literature and business
a plethora of similar-but-incompatible dialects to supply partial
data exchange.
practice. IOS could be defined as comprehensive logic and
To regulate and rationalize part of the footwear industry in- technological architectures that integrate interorganizational
terorganizational communication, in this paper, we present the processes through shared data and knowledge flows [7], [8].
Shoe PRocess INTeroperability Standard (SPRINTS), conceived The aim is to satisfy interfirm coordination needs also including
and carried out within an industrial district, ranging from shoe electronic data interchanges and standards for digital commu-
design to mass production. SPRINTS is based on the XML
nication, supply chain management, electronic funds transfer,
standard language to define a data exchange protocol among
systems and machines of the footwear production field. SPRINTS interfirm knowledge management tools, shared databases, and
describes both “vertical” transfers (i.e., between different steps so on.
of the design/production chain), and “horizontal” transfers (e.g., Features of the industrial district model—especially the
to allow data exchange between CADs from different vendors). emerging ones—fit very well with functionalities and opportu-
Moreover, it allows a smooth transaction from existing standards, nities offered by IOS and coordination technologies in general.
and it has been tested in real-world scenarios. SPRINTS is de-
signed in collaboration with ASSOMAC, an association of shoe Since the middle of 1990s, probably Electronic Data Integration
machineries manufacturers, comprising the worldwide majority (EDI) is the most known kind of digital interface. Compared
of footwear manufacturing companies (http://info.assomac.com). with the past, the notions of open standards and modularity
The standard has been validated and already adopted by a few characterize the modern era of IOS. Current interfaces—i.e.,
companies, that contributed to its development. In this paper, we XML, WSDL, SOAP, APIs, and “ad hoc” solutions—permit to
present the standard and a tool able to validate and graphically
render a SPRINTS file. logically decomposing district value chain into many discrete
functions/capabilities and easily resembling it, in absence of a
Index Terms—Footwear manufacturing, industrial districts, in- high dependence on a specific node.
teroperability, XML data exchange standard. A digital communication standard, with its own specific
industry-based data dictionary, allows a fluent direct electronic
I. INTRODUCTION: THE NEED FOR A data transfer between information systems/technologies. It pro-
COMMON DATA STANDARD vides a common set of business terms, definitions, and digital
forms. If inconsistencies or inefficiencies are detected, then
versus open systems. The former leads to a competitive ad- In this paper, the Shoe PRocess INTeroperability Standard
vantage based on ambiguity and inimitability, while the latter (SPRINTS) is presented, a XML-based standard that covers
support the development of competitive advantage based on the most of the information transfers needed in the shoe manufac-
so called “first mover” advantage, on sustained diffusion and turing field, from shoe design to production control.
on dynamicity over time, also in the case of small and medium SPRINTS was conceived and carried out within an industrial
enterprises [10]. district, and copes with the real-world necessities of the partner
The industrial district of Vigevano, located in the companies. The proposed standard focus on the generalization
north-western Italy, is known worldwide for the high quality of the data structure and hierarchy, and is as technology inde-
of its production of machineries and industrial equipments for pendent as possible.
shoe, leather and tan industries. However, from the beginning SPRINTS can describe both vertical transfers (i.e., between
of this century, the footwear machinery industry has been different steps of the design/production chain), and horizontal
increasingly confronted by a fierce competition. transfers (i.e., to allow data exchange between CADs from dif-
Although recent years showed a moderate economic resump- ferent vendors).
tion of this district and a partial retrenchment of the emerging SPRINTS was created by means of an incremental and itera-
economies impressive expansion, local small enterprises rec- tive approach. Industrial partners provided information and ob-
ognize the need for a radical strategic repositioning, especially jectives to the development team, which responded with a pro-
towards: totype. The prototype was then analyzed and checked by the
• intercompany networking initiatives, in order to create companies, providing suggestions on fine-tuning arrangements,
flexibility among local Small and Medium Enterprises and sent back to us. The process went through several iteration
(SMEs); up to the point where all functionalities were satisfactory for all
• innovation projects, as a response to the rapid growth of en- partners involved.
vironmental turbulence and dramatic cost reduction stem- In the following, the technical requirements are described
ming from emerging competitive economies; suggesting the design and the adoption of a XML standard for
• better exploitation/exploration of ICT technologies, in data description (Section II), together with the different phases
order to amplify benefits and highlight new opportunities characterizing the manufacturing shoe process (Section III) and
about the first two points. the limits of the previous projects that tried to propose a unified
These interoperability and efficiency requirements highlight “language” for footwear machineries (Section IV, “state-of-the-
the need of a unique and universally accepted communication art”). Sections V and VI depict the “structure” of the developed
standard. A lot of data description formats are available (DXF, standard, whileSection VII illustrates a viewer tool which allow
IGES, STEP, VRML among the most popular and used). to easily open and visualize a SPRINTS file, while verifying
However, they are often hard to be managed and interpreted. its compliance to the format. The benefits assured by SPRINTS
Moreover, they are linked to specific implementations, and adoption and the feedback of the companies involved in the
adopted by isolated producers independently. Interoperability project are highlighted in Sections VIII and IX. Considerations
is thus hardly achieved. about the work still necessary to spread the standard diffusion
Close to them, several proprietary formats survive, often used conclude this paper (Section X).
as a defense for application domain or markets, instead of a real
support to the interoperability of the customer systems.
On the other hand, shoe producers notice more and more the II. THE PROBLEM
need of exchanging data within the same firm or among the
Modern production contexts need wider and wider interop-
chain companies and could gain considerable benefits from the
erability among software applications with different nature and
availability of a standard, complete and adopted by the most im-
origin. Indeed, this is relevant especially when passing from the
portant market players.
Since the footwear industrial field is highly specialized, a uni- design to production, exploiting strong automation and integra-
versal data exchange protocol would be very useful, allowing tion among processes and inside them.
a compatible data exchange among machineries charged with At the same time, interoperability is needed at the shop-floor
several production phases. At the present time, a similar stan- level when machineries with strong automation should commu-
dard protocol does not exist and shoe design is made through nicate among themselves (synchronization signals or process
CAD programs. However, different software manage geomet- data) or with computer systems controlling production lines or
rical data in a substantially different way. Typically, nongeo- their single cells.
metric information, intrinsic of shoe manufacturing process, are There are examples in literature of standards defining process
squeezed in CAD files through ad hoc customizations. More- data developed in several but different sectors to reach these tar-
over, since a lot of unofficial dialects are present, often compa- gets [12]–[18] and of papers providing a survey about them [19].
nies are forced to produce case-specific filters to adapt and trans- However, the features of the footwear field led us to a completely
late files between formats. This confusion makes the process innovative and application specific proposal.
slow and expensive. Human contribution is still critical when- We distinguish three types of data that need to be exchanged
ever a data transfer is needed between different softwares. This (Fig. 1):
scenario forces all companies to control and adapt the informa- • geometrical data, produced during the 3D Computer Aided
tion coming from CADs (typically in DXF format [11]) or from Design (CAD) design process and relative to the last, to the
other machineries (typically in HPGL or ISO format). upper together with its components, and to the other main
DANESE et al.: A NOVEL STANDARD FOR FOOTWEAR INDUSTRIAL MACHINERIES 715
experience, surely a great demonstration of manual skills. Al- scaled to generate all the shoe sizes usually available. A testing
most everything was left to shoe designer’s fancy, interpretative phase, during which a small set of shoes is produced, is usually
ability and experience. done to detect and fix possible errors.
The dependence on the skills of a single person and the time The next step is the component (pieces) production. The
required by the design (often requiring repeated trial-and-error leather cutting can be done manually for small productions, or
steps) induced companies to spend energies on the automation automatically for medium and large-scale productions. Cutting
and simplification of the whole process. This change is still hap- machines can have or not have socket punch, thus actually
pening, and the current production mixes up technology and changing the operations needed to obtain a single piece.
handcrafting skills. Cutting with a socket punch is fast but requires the production
The CAD and Computer Aided Manufacturing (CAM) of templates (a time-consuming process) which are pressed on
technologies were introduced in the footwear sector only in the the leather.
1980s. Developing these new technologies became important Cutting without socket punch can be either hand-done (using
when the fashion induced a much wider selection of different a cutter and a paperboard reference) or automatically using cut-
shoe models. ting machines which are somewhat similar to plotters with sev-
There are two main footwear CADs: eral cutting heads. The pieces to be cut are coded in a file and
• 3D CADs which allow the designer to interact with 3D projected on the leather so that the operator can place them in
entities such as the last, heel, upper, and sole in a way the best (less space waste) way. There are many technologies
similar to the traditional manual process; for this kind of machines (oscillating blade, ultrasonic, laser,
• 2D CADs which only allow to manage the upper after it water-jet, etc.). Cutting without a socket punch is very eco-
has been flattened. nomic and flexible and (obviously) removes the time penalty
of building the template itself. It is the preferred technology for
C. Manufacturing Phases prototyping and, with the most advanced software, even less ex-
Manufacturing a shoe requires a great deal of workmanship perienced personnel can obtain good results. Nevertheless, for
and personal experience, even though most of the manual work large productions of identical shoes, it is slower than using a
is assisted by more or less sophisticated machines. socket punch, so there is market for both technologies and in-
There are three main philosophies on which machines for deed some footwear factories have both of them.
footwear production are built: manual, semiautomatic, or auto- The leather usually requires the splitting phase to ensure uni-
matic machines. form width on the whole area, and a skiving and folding phase
Depending on the amount of automation present in the fac- to have better-looking edges. Some additional operations can be
tory, there can be even the three types of machines all together, required, for example to realize ornaments. Once all shoe pieces
spread over the whole manufacturing chain. are available, they are stitched together. As usual, several means
The shoe assembly process (also named lasting or making) and materials are available to achieve different cost/quality com-
can be split in six main steps: promises.
• last and upper preparation; Once the upper is complete, the outside counter performing
• assembling of the upper on the last; is done. In this phase, the heel area is thermally shaped and the
• heat treatment; counter is placed.
• bottom and sole preparation; The insole: the next step is to temporarily fasten the insole to
• sole fastening; the last, through paper tape or a nail, and its trimming. These
• last removal and finishing. operations are usually either manual or performed with semiau-
The number and type of processes required to make a shoe tomatic machines.
depend heavily on several factors such as the type of shoe, the 2) Assembling the Upper on the Last: The shoe assembling is
desired quality of the finished product, production time con- usually done with two semiautomatic machines, the tack lasting
straints, and final cost. machine (for the fore part) and the waist lasting machine (for the
Here is a list of the most general manufacturing rules, even lateral and back parts). The upper is fastened with glue and/or
though every shoe factory follows its own rules. nails. A peening phase ensures good coupling between glued
1) Last and Upper Preparation: The last: the shoe assem- components.
bling phase is done on a last to give the shoe its right shape. 3) Heat Treatment: The assembled shoe must remain on the
The upper, initially flat, is forced to assume the last shape with last for some time to permanently assume the proper shape.
pincers and other grabbing devices, which are part of some ma- To shorten this time, the shoe is subjected to relatively strong
chines (such as the toe lasting machine and the seat and side thermal shocks.
lasting machine). This central role in the production process 4) Bottom and Insole Preparation: The next steps are
gives the last a great importance, since errors in the last de- roughing (used to remove the leather superficial layer whose
sign or production can lead to problems in later manufacturing finishing treatments are somewhat glue repellent) and gluing
phases or in the shoe usage. of the bottom preparing it to the sole fastening. These phases
The upper: the initial upper design is performed by a shoe are usually performed through semiautomatic machines, and
designer directly on the last or on a standard shape (the flattened sometimes the same machine performs both operations.
upper) following the fashion designer drawings. This work is 5) Sole Fastening: In this phase, the sole and the upper-in-
done for a single size, it is flattened (if done on the 3D last) and sole (still on the last) are joined. To guarantee perfect coupling
DANESE et al.: A NOVEL STANDARD FOR FOOTWEAR INDUSTRIAL MACHINERIES 717
VIII. THE STANDARD BENEFITS group of companies, which participated in the definition activi-
The SPRINTS standard aims to limit or, when possible, to ties of the standard itself.
eliminate data passing problems during different steps of shoe These tests focused, in particular, to the most relevant “use
manufacturing process. That would be possible only if every cases” as identified by the testing group and according to market
actor involved will implement correctly the standard. Here, a priorities. CAD to cutting machines was agreed to be the most
brief list is presented of practical advantages coming from stan- relevant and demanding case to be explored, being this the typ-
dard adoption for the machineries customer side: ical situation in which data are to be transferred between soft-
• no translations needed any more: this will allow more au- ware applications and machinery provided by different vendors
tomation, that brings time and cost reductions; moreover, in normal productive environments. In the scope of this activity,
no more translation errors will happen; three cutting machine producers and a CAD developer imple-
• it will be possible to receive orders from every customer; mented specific converters in their suite of software applications
• no more binding to specific machinery producers; to write and read data in the SPRINTS format. The tests were
• elimination (or at least a strong limitation) of on-board ma- run by generating a complete set of data for a normal cutting
chinery programming: that procedure consumes time and job in the system of one vendor and importing them in the ma-
slows the production down, on the other hand, the standard chine controller of another and proofing both the integrity and
adoption supports more efficient offline programming; completeness of the data transfer as well as the efficacy of the
• it will be possible to get, in every manufacturing step, in- operation. This allowed to demonstrate the compliance of the
formation from other steps, allowing process optimization standard to its initial specifications and its capability to fulfill
and less constraints in designing. the industry demands that drove its development.
Also machinery producers benefit from standard adoption: This group of early implementers are currently offering
• leader producers will gain a standard method to describe SPRINTS as the recommended data exchange format to their
machine functions, allowing them to concentrate on spe- clients. The successful case of the CAD to cutting machine
cific features that characterize their products; transfer was not followed by similar adoptions for other cases
• new and growing producers will not need to project new of CAD to machine exchanges, in particular, in the domain of
communication solutions and could concentrate on ma- transfers of 3D data to process machines in the shoe assembly
chinery quality; phase and the CAD to CAD exchange scenarios.
• every producer could reach higher technology levels thanks There are several factors that can explain that. The most rele-
to an easier way of sharing data. vant one is the low market diffusion of highly integrated and au-
The standard will also help to move production to higher tomated footwear production systems which, on the one hand,
quality levels, that is useful to face towards new and growing necessarily require a solid and effective data exchange frame-
markets. Designers will gain new expression freedom, that will work such as SPRINTS is thought to provide and, on the other
help to create strong brands and styles, thanks to a more accu- hand, are the ideal vehicle for its diffusion. As long as this tech-
rate manufacturing process. nological evolution in the footwear sector is not fully accom-
Closed standards led to no communication between different plished there will be no strong market drivers for the widespread
companies: the proposed standard could bring to new dynamism adoption of the standard and hence its diffusion will be limited
and aid new ideas to spread. to the few implementation cases mentioned above.
Concerning its adoption, the standard foresees three gradual SPRINTS, nonetheless, represents a powerful enabler for
integration levels. At first, we need to write down translation such technological growth of the sector. Its adoption is cur-
programs from old closed standards to the new one (and vice rently under evaluation as part of a research project dedicated
versa). This is the quickest and cheapest method because ma- to the study of new shoe manufacturing solution based on
chineries are not modified so allowing to use old machines that a wide usage of robots for various processing steps and
cannot be upgraded anymore. However, this approach adds new whose programming is done via CAD data. In parallel to that
steps to existing process and translation can be a very chal- ASSOMAC [1] (the association of shoe machinery producers
lenging task. which fostered its development) is intending to continue with
The second integration level is useful to computer guided ma- its development and to actively promote its adoption by its
chines: a software update could add the new standard as one of associated companies.
the direct input supported and provides an internal translation. In
this case, the standard adoption will be completely transparent
to end users. X. CONCLUSIONS AND FUTURE WORKS
At the maximum level of integration, all machinery is
compliant to the standard format and no more translations Within the footwear manufacturing, the lack of coded or stan-
are needed: a specific driver transforms standard data to elec- dardized directives and operations forces additional work and
tric/mechanical commands. This is clearly the hardest step but leads to the same continuous difficulties recurring every time a
also the one that can lead to best results. specific production phase is going on.
Thus, a common effort of the involved industries (although
IX. REAL EXPERIENCE, FEEDBACK, AND LIMITS competitors) is needed to define a precise data standardization
The analysis and definition work of the standard involved sev- and to minimize possible incompatibilities: that was the lesson
eral proof-of-concept tests under the responsibility of a selected of our case study passing over the considered industrial district.
DANESE et al.: A NOVEL STANDARD FOR FOOTWEAR INDUSTRIAL MACHINERIES 721
REFERENCES
[31] H. Li, “XML and industrial standards for electronic commerce,” Mauro Giachero received the Ph.D. degree and
Knowledge and Information Systems, vol. 2, pp. 487–497, 2000. Laurea degree (First Class With Honors) in com-
[32] [Online]. Available: http://xerces.apache.org/xerces-c/ puter engineering from the Faculty of Engineering,
[33] [Online]. Available: http://qt.nokia.com/products/ University of Pavia, Pavia, Italy.
[34] [Online]. Available: http://argouml.tigris.org/ His current research interests include computer
and microprocessor architectures, compilation
techniques, and resource-constrained computing.