Discoveries

An impromptu concert after

afternoon tea at Duisdale House

Spectacular Scotland
from Skye to Scone
From the romantic Isle of Skye to the ancient centre of the Scottish
kingdom near Perth, Norman Wright embarks on a road trip through
some of the country’s most spectacular scenery
PICTURES: CLIVE NICHOLLS

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Discoveries
Murrayshall dates from 1664. It was a family Sun hits the islands of the Inner Sound with mainland mountains in
home for the Graham-Murrays for 260 years the distance as we head back to the Skye Bridge at Kyle of Lochalsh
Below left to right: Luxurious bedroom at
Murrayshall; Splendid bedroom at Duisdale
House; A roaring fire at Murrayshall; History
in photographs at Murrayshall

I
T WAS a bit of a dour late
spring day on the Isle of Skye
but the grey was soon lit up by
a welcoming glass of bubbly, a
roaring fire and an impromptu concert
by two local women who were enjoying
traditional afternoon tea one minute then
performing at the piano the next.
That it was completely unexpected
made their Scottish songbook all the
more enjoyable.
It added up to a very warm welcome
to Duisdale House Hotel on the Sleat
Peninsula, the southernmost and most
lowland part of the historic island.
It is a really long haul to drive to
Skye from our base in Peterborough, trip, leaving a full day to enjoy the drive courses. The hotel itself has 40 rooms a gateway to the East Coast – Dundee spectacular country in Britain and still fact that the Romans never progressed
and such a spectacular trip when you through the mountains and glens. and two restaurants. is half an hour away with access to the a substantial journey. Having driven further than Scone in their advance to
leave Glasgow behind and head to the It was a good decision as we found, We were greeted in the fine-dining coast to the north and via the Tay Bridge direct to Skye a couple of times, I can conquer the country. The Picts – the
Highlands that we decided to break both from discovering the Perth restaurant, Eòlas, by a lookalike of that south to Fife. Glasgow and Edinburgh recommend breaking the journey. painted men – held them here.
the journey at Perth and make it a road area and for our stay at Murrayshall opera-singing bloke from the insurance are both an hour’s drive away and, if you But before we hit the road, we had time From 906 until the 1450s the laws
Country Estate. TV ad. He certainly knew his onions, want to avoid the roads, Perth is on the to explore around Perth. The ancient of Scotland were decided by councils
“There’s a wealth of history Just a ten-minute drive from Perth, showing complete command of the main railway line and the hotel is just centre of the Scottish Kingdom, Scone and parliaments held at Scone. In the
on offer at Dunvegan Castle Murrayshall is on a spectacular hilltop menu and wine list to orchestrate a meal ten minutes by cab from the station. Palace, is a few miles away and is one of 11th century it was the scene of power
site with wonderful views across the to remember. Walkers will find plenty of routes with Scotland’s most important historic sites. struggles between Macbeth and his rival
and Gardens, the ancestral valley as the River Tay loops past no Not only is the hotel a great staging superb views on the estate. It was the crowning place of Scottish Malcolm, eventually giving Shakespeare
home of the Chiefs of Clan more than two miles away. The estate is post on the road to the Isles, it also For us, though, we were heading kings and the home of medieval material for his epic tragedy.
MacLeod for 800 years” some 365 acres with two parkland golf offers a base for local exploration and north-west through some of the most parliaments. It is significant also for the The Stone of Destiny used by

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Discoveries
Hand dived scallops at Murrayshall’s Eòlas restaurant
Murrayshall breakfast
monarchs during their coronation was
thought to have been brought to Scone
in 846 when Kenneth McAlpin, as King
of the Scots, finally ousted the Picts. An
English invasion in the late 1290s saw
the stone removed to Westminster where
it was used in British coronations until
1996 when it was returned to Scotland.
It is kept at Edinburgh Castle with the
Scottish Crown Jewels.
Kinnoull Hill Woodland Park to the
east of Perth includes the five hills –
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Corsiehill, Deuchny Hill, Barn Hill,
Binn Hill and Kinnoull Hill.
Rising sharply from the banks of the
River Tay in Perth, Kinnoull Hill is the
highest of the five and is a Site of Special
Scientific Interest.
Walkers of all abilities can enjoy
the variety of waymarked paths across
the park; the north slopes of the hill
are relatively gentle and are the main
route of ascent, starting from the well-
used Corsie Hill car park. For those not
Highland venison loin at
Murrayshall
Scallops at
Duisdale House
wishing to walk, the car park itself is
an excellent viewpoint, affording vistas
across Perth and the mighty River Tay,
with views to western and northern
hills beyond.
Balhousie Castle has played a part in
Perth’s often turbulent history from the
days of the Jacobites to taking a key role
in both the World Wars. The castle is now
the home of the elite military regiment,
The Black Watch, including The Black
Watch Museum with its collections of
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ancient uniforms, paintings, medals,
photographs, diaries and weapons.
The Fergusson Gallery in Perth’s old
Watertower is devoted to the work of
the Scottish colourist, John Fergusson,
and his wife, Margaret Morris, a
modern dancer. Three galleries display
sketchbooks, costumes and photographs,
illuminating the fascinating lives and
loves of these two remarkable artists.
Branklyn Garden has provided an
explosion of colour from its setting on
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The magnificent staircase at Murrayshall
“In the 11th century Scone was the scene of power struggles
between Macbeth and his rival Malcolm, eventually giving
Shakespeare material for his epic tragedy”
the side of Kinnoull Hill, featuring Invergarry and across to Skye via the road
many exotic plants from China, Tibet bridge at Kyle of Lochalsh.
and Bhutan. On the way back, we travelled via
Leaving Perth, we took the A9 Glencoe and the winding road down
northwards skirting the Grampian the west shore of Loch Lomond through
Mountains and Cairngorms before Dumbarton to join the motorway system.
cutting West towards Fort William, The route takes you past the Ben Nevis
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Discoveries
Duisdale House Hotel
range and gives distant views of the
Trossachs mountains as well as the
bonny banks of Loch Lomond.
From a driving point of view, this
route is beautiful but can be frustrating
if you get behind a lorry or a logging
truck. The A9 has more speed cameras
seemingly than the rest of the country;
it’s also a bit confusing as there are many
50mph signs. These only apply to HGVs,
apparently; for cars the limit remains at
60 and 70 on most dual carriageways.
Duisdale House is just a few miles
along from the road bridge, taking a
left onto the A851. The road passes the
hotel and goes on to the ferry terminal
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Scone Palace, just five minutes
from Murrayshall
Breakfast at Duisdale House
Murrayshall provided the
Fine dining at finest cheeseboard ever, The drink selection at
Duisdale House according to Clive Nicholls Murrayshall was well guided
“Balhousie Castle has played a part in Perth’s often After a painstaking four-year restoration Visitors can enjoy tours of the castle, served in the lounge by the fireside or on
and build, Torabhaig has been a fully the beauty of its formal gardens, or even outside decking.
turbulent history from the days of the Jacobites to operational Single Malt Scotch Whisky take a boat trip to the local seal colony. The other hotel in the group is
taking a key role in both the World Wars” distillery since January 2017.Skye n Duisdale is part of the three-hotel Skeabost House, near Skye’s main town
The oldest working distillery on the Sonas Collection, and its sister hotel of Portree.
at Armadale. If you enjoy a short ferry the tumult of Jacobite risings, to the Isle of Skye, however, is on the shores of Toravaig House, close by, has reopened Duisdale is a good choice with a
trip, you can take it from the mainland hardship of clearance and emigration. Loch Harport in the village of Carbost. after refurbishment. perfect location by the beautiful coast,
at Mallaig. The Distillery at Torabhaig is the A tour will show you its five copper pot The nine-bedroom hotel, which a fine dining menu, and a friendly and
The Museum of the Isles is included second-ever licensed Single Malt Scotch stills and the traditional worm tubs that commands glorious views over the warm welcome… and, of course, singing
in a ticket to Armadale Castle. Whisky distillery on the Isle of Skye. make Talisker unique, then you can taste Atlantic waters of the Sound of Sleat, guests if you’re lucky.
Visitors can experience the history of Single Malt Scotch Whisky is the award-winning Talisker Single Malt was the first hotel launched by former
the Highlands and Islands through the inextricably linked to its place of Scotch Whisky in the Visitor Centre. Scottish Hotelier of the Year Anne Find out more
epic story of Clan Donald, Scotland’s origin, perhaps more so than any other There’s a wealth of history on offer Gracie Gunn. It has been voted n Murrayshall Country Estate website:
largest and most powerful clan. They product. The water, the land, the at Dunvegan Castle and Gardens, the Scotland’s Islands Hotel of the Year (www.murrayshall.co.uk), tel: 01738 551171
can witness the clan’s changing fortunes, climate, all play a role in the character ancestral home of the Chiefs of Clan several times. n Duisdale House Hotel website:
from mighty Lords of the Isles, through of the whisky. MacLeod for 800 years. Cream teas and charcuterie boards are (www.skyehotel.co.uk), tel: 01470 373737.
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