Shawl Collar Jacket by Sabra Gubler at http://sewastraightline.blogspot.

com

One-size fits most cropped jacket with shawl collar.

Required fabric:
Three yards medium- to heavy weight fabric (I used a velvet blend of some sort)
1/2 yard medium weight interfacing

Cut our your pattern pieces

Start with the front jacket piece

Transfer double fish-eye dart markings from pattern onto wrong side of fabric
For both pieces

Fold right sides together along the center of the dart, from point to point
Press

Following your markings, sew from one point, out to the angled center, and then out to
the opposite point
Clip the center up to the stitches to release fabric tension

Now you should have a fun little double fish-eye dart

Repeat for second piece

Now we’ll do the cut away dart

Fold the piece right sides together along the cut out dart, matching raw edges

Sew from about 1/2 inch past the top of the dart opening, down to the end of the dart
At this point you’ll notice that the bottom of the front piece has a short section and a
longer section. This is on purpose and will make more sense in a few steps.

Attach your interfacing to the wrong side of the front pieces. I forgot to buy black
interfacing. Blerg.
Now layer your front pieces at the collar/top, right sides together, matching all angles
and such

Sew across the collar, which is the topmost angled area

When you open it, it should look like this:

Grab your back piece and open it up

Lay the front pieces onto the back piece, right sides together.

This part is a little confusing to visualize, so I’ve tried to mark things on the pattern to
help you understand. But you need to sew the shoulder seams together.
In order to do this, your front pieces are going to be pulled up and away at the collar,
thereby pulling the shoulders of the front pieces up to match with those of the back
piece

Sew and you’ll have this

Now we’re going to sew the collar of the back to that of the front. Pin, right sides facing,

matching center lines

Sew
This is where we are to this point. Looking very jacket-like, yes?

Now lets work on the front facings

Right sides together
Sew along the top flat section creating one long, curved piece

Lay on the front of the open jacket, right sides together

Pin, making sure to match that center seam and all curved raw edges of the front jacket
and the front facings
Sew all the way around from one end, up around and over to the other end

Fold the facing to the inside of the jacket, as it would be when worn
Fold the collar of the facing under 1/4 inch and pin to the collar of the jacket back

Carefully sew the facing collar in place, just in the collar area

Match side seams of front to side seams of back, right sides together. Pin.
And sew side seams

Now we’ve got something like this

Notice how, with the front facing in place, the hem of the facing and the jacket front is
already completed? This is why there had to be a difference in hem lengths on the
unfinished front pieces. So let’s finish the hem

Fold the raw, short edge of the hem over 1/4 inch, to match the seam allowance of the

jacket’s darts.
Fold and press the raw edge of the entire hem inside 1/4 inch. Fold the hem up to match
the finished facing hem, press in place

Sew the hem from edge of finished facing to other finished facing

And it’s time to add the sleeves.

Right sides together, fold each sleeve over on itself and sew up to the side of the sleeve,
forming the sleeve tube. Try the sleeve on and determine what length you want. Mark
that length, on the wrong side. Here it is the bottom line of my sleeves:
Remove the sleeve and add another line/marking on the wrong side indicating how wide
you want the sleeve cuff. The width of the finished cuff will be approximately 1/4 inch
shorter than the width from the bottom line to the top line, NOT the edge of the
unfinished sleeve to the top line.
With the sleeve still wrong side out, fold the sleeve up to the top marking

Flip the sleeve right side out. Fold the cuff up to the lower marking.
Sew in place

No idea how I missed getting pictures of setting the sleeves, but now’s the time to put
them in.

With right sides facing, pin the sleeves into the sleeve opening, matching seams and
shoulder tops.
Sew in place, all along the circumference of the sleeve opening, finishing the sleeves and
the jacket
A belt or broach can be used to secure jacket, or can be left open
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