Butterfly Shoulder Bag: Crochet Pattern

BUTTERFLY SHOULDER BAG
Crochet Pattern
Materials
NOTE: Feel free to use any size/type of yarn and the appropriate hook, just note that your
dimensions will then vary accordingly from mine. I chose to use standard milk cotton yarn (thick
weight 3) with a 4mm hook.
● Three colours of yarn - recommended weight 3 or weight 4 (I used a weight 3 yarn which
is on the thicker end, so if you’re worried about the bag turning out a bit too small I
suggest going up to weight 4)
● A crochet hook - recommended 4mm or larger
● A pair of scissors
● A yarn needle
● Optional: stitch markers (you can always improvise with bobby pins, safety pins, etc.)
Dimensions
Below are the approximate dimensions of my shoulder bag - note that this will vary slightly
according to the type of yarn and hook size you use:
Width: 26cm
Height: 20cm
Strap length: 45cm
Construction
Instructions for this project will be split into the following sections:
1. Creating the first side of the main body
2. Creating the second side of the main body
3. Creating the base/bottom of the bag
4. Creating the strap of the bag
5. Attaching the pieces of the bag together
6. Adding the final edging
A note on the instructions

The pattern for this bag will include tapestry charts for the main body of the bag, the base of the
bag, and the strap of the bag. The bag is constructed entirely of single crochets, so if you find it
easier to follow a chart, go ahead and crochet along with the chart, making 1 single crochet in
every stitch indicated. However, if you aren’t as comfortable with reading off charts, or would
simply like to use the charts as a reference point to what your work should look like as you go
along, I’ve also included step-by-step written instructions for creating each part of the bag. Also
note that I reference the three colours as follows:
● C1 (Colour 1) = the colour of the main body of the bag, e.g. brown in the middle bag
pictured
● C2 (Colour 2) = the colour of the outline of the butterfly, e.g. black in the middle bag
pictured - I suggest using a dark colour for C2 (at least darker than C3) to ensure your
butterfly stands out
● C3 (Colour 3) = the colour of the body of the butterfly, e.g. blue in the middle bag
pictured
Changing colour
Changing colour
E.g. How to change colour from C1 to C2:
Make your last sc in C1 by inserting your hook through the st and pulling up a loop in C1.
However, do not yarn over and pull through a loop in C1 to complete the sc. Instead, yarn over
and pull through a loop in C2. From the next sc onwards, work in C2.
For example, if the instructions say, “1 sc in C2, change colour to C1, 5 scs in C1,” complete the
sc of C2 by pulling through a loop in C1. Then from the next st onwards, work 5 scs in C1.
If the instructions say to, “Change colour to C2, ch1 and turn your work,” at the end of a row of
C1 (for example), you would make your last sc of the row in C1 and end it by pulling through in
C2, as before, and then end by chaining 1 in C2.
Note that when you are working in one colour, e.g. C1, hold the C2 and C3’s strand of yarn in
line with your row, and ensure you place your scs of C1 over the strand of C2 and C3 in order to
hide these other colours (and vice versa when you’re working in C2 or C3 instead of C1).
A little tip; if you see too much of the other colours poking out through your work, this likely
means you’re not pulling tightly enough - when working one colour, e.g. C1, ensure you pull the
strands of C2 and C3 relatively tight as you crochet over them - this will help hide them better!
Do note that the other colours can’t be hidden completely - it is normal for them to be somewhat
visible, as you can see in my own work.
Abbreviations used - this pattern uses US crochet terminology

Ch = chain Sc = single crochet
St = stitch Ss = slip stitch
Sk = skip
INSTRUCTIONS
if you have any questions at all as you’re going through this pattern, please reach out to me by
messaging me on Etsy or Instagram - I’d be more than happy to help you or explain anything
you might be confused about.
One final note before you start - I’d recommend sewing in your ends as you go along, e.g. once
you finish one piece of the bag, sew in all the ends before you move onto making the next
piece. This will make it easier when it comes to attaching all the pieces of the bag together, and
will save you from having to sew in a ton of ends all at once at the end of the project.
Part 1: Creating the first side of the main body
Part 1A: Creating the rectangular portion of the main body

Tapestry chart: P1A
Chart legend: white = C1, black = C2, grey = C3
Begin by chaining 37 in C1, and then follow the chart. Do NOT fasten off once you finish - move
onto part 1B (written instructions).
Written instructions: P1A

Begin by chaining 37 in C1.
ROW 1: [note - place the first sc in the second ch from your hook]
36 scs in C1. Ch1 and turn your work.
ROW 2:
● 10 scs in C1, change colour to C2 (new colour)
● 2 scs in C2, change colour to C1
● Ch1 and turn your work
ROW 3:
● 1 sc in C2, change colour to C1
● 1 sc in C2, change colour to C3 (new colour)
● 9 scs in C1
ROW 4:
● 1 sc in C2
ROW 5:
● 6 scs in C1
ROW 6:
● 1 sc in C2
ROW 7:
● 5 scs in C1
ROW 8:
ROW 9:
ROW 10:
● 1 sc in C3
ROW 11:
● 2 scs in C3
ROW 12:
● 2 scs in C2
ROW 13:
● 1 sc in C2
ROW 14:
ROW 15:
● 1 sc in C3
ROW 16:
● 7 scs in C1
ROW 17:
● 1 sc in C3
ROW 18:
● 7 scs in C1
ROW 19:
● You can now cut off the strand of C3 - we will no longer be crocheting with this colour
ROW 20:
● 8 scs in C1
ROW 21:
36 scs in C1. Ch1 and turn your work - do NOT fasten off; move onto part 1B of the instructions.
Part 1B: Making decreasing top section on first side

ROW 22:
ROW 23:
Sk 1 st, 11 scs in C1. Ch1 and turn your work.
ROW 24:
8 scs in C1, sk 2 sts, 1 sc in C1. Ch1 and turn your work.
ROW 25:
Sk 1 st, 8 scs in C1. Ch1 and turn your work.
ROW 26:
5 scs in C1, sk 2 sts, 1 sc in C1. Ch1 and turn your work.
ROW 27:
Sk 1 st, 5 scs in C1. Ch1 and fasten off.
Part 1C: Making decreasing top section on other side
Attach your yarn in C1 to the other corner of your main body, ch1 and repeat ROW 22 - ROW 27
from part 1B.
One side of the main body of your bag is now complete!
Part 2: Creating the second side of the main body
Tapestry chart: P2A

Begin by chaining 37 in C1, and then follow the chart. Do NOT fasten off once you finish - move
onto part 2B (written instructions).
Written instructions: P2A
ROW 2:
● 12 scs in C1
ROW 3:
● 21 scs in C1
ROW 4:
● 8 scs in C1
ROW 5:
● 18 scs in C1
ROW 6;
● 6 scs in C1
ROW 7:
● 17 scs in C1
ROW 8:
● 5 scs in C1
ROW 9:
● 8 scs in C1
ROW 10:
● 11 scs in C1
ROW 11:
● 6 scs in C1
ROW 12:
ROW 13:
● 4 scs in C1
ROW 14:
● 1 sc in C3
ROW 15:
● 2 scs in C1
ROW 16:
ROW 17:
● 10 scs in C1
ROW 18:
● 21 scs in C1
ROW 19:
● 11 scs in C1
ROW 20:
● 22 scs in C1
ROW 21:
36 scs in C1. Ch1 and turn your work - do NOT fasten off; move onto part 1B of the instructions.
Part 2B: Making decreasing top section on first side

Repeat the steps outlined in part 1B.
Part 2C: Making decreasing top section on other side

Attach your yarn in C1 to the other corner of your main body, ch1 and repeat ROW 22 - ROW 27
from part 2B.
Both sides of the main body of your bag are now complete!
Part 3: Creating the base/bottom of the bag
ROW 2 - ROW 5:
ROW 6:
36 scs in C1. Ch1 and fasten off.
Part 4: Creating the strap of the bag
Tapestry chart: P4
Begin by chaining 9 in C1, then following the two tapestry charts on the next page (start with the
right chart, then move to the left - do NOT fasten off in between). Once you finish both charts,
fasten off - your strap is now complete!
Written instructions: P4
ROW 2:
● 6 scs in C1
ROW 3:
● 2 scs in C3
ROW 4:
● 2 scs in C1
ROW 5:
● 3 scs in C2
ROW 6:
● 1 sc in C2
ROW 7:
ROW 8:
ROW 9:
● 2 scs in C3
ROW 10:
● 5 scs in C1
ROW 11:
● 2 scs in C3
ROW 12:
● 5 scs in C1
ROW 13:
ROW 14:
● 6 scs in C1
ROW 15:
ROW 16 - ROW 27:
If you’d like, add a stitch marker to mark ROW 27 - this may make it easier when attaching the
strap to the main body, however it’s absolutely not compulsory.
Note that for these rows, you can choose to cut off the strands of C2 and C3 to conserve yarn,
and reattach these colours again later on. Personally, I prefer not to do this and instead continue
to crochet over the two strands as this makes the strap thicker and sturdier.
ROW 28:
● 1 sc in C2
ROW 29:
● 7 scs in C1
ROW 30:
● 4 scs in C2
ROW 31:
● 3 scs in C1
ROW 32:
● 1 sc in C2
ROW 33:
● 3 scs in C1
ROW 34:
● 1 sc in C3
ROW 35:
● 6 scs in C1
ROW 36:
ROW 37:
● 6 scs in C1
ROW 38:
● 1 sc in C2
ROW 39:
● 7 scs in C1
ROW 40 - ROW 42:

ROW 43:
● 3 scs in C2
ROW 44:
● 4 scs in C1
ROW 45:
● 1 sc in C2
ROW 46:
● 3 scs in C1
ROW 47:
● 1 sc in C3
ROW 48:
● 4 scs in C1
ROW 49:
● 2 scs in C3
ROW 50:
● 5 scs in C1
ROW 51:
● 2 scs in C3
ROW 52:
● 5 scs in C1
ROW 53:
ROW 54 - ROW 55:

ROW 56:
ROW 57:
● 6 scs in C1
ROW 58:
● 2 scs in C3
ROW 59:
● 5 scs in C1
ROW 60:
● 2 scs in C3
ROW 61:
● 5 scs in C1
ROW 62:
● 2 scs in C3
ROW 63:
● 3 scs in C1
ROW 64:
● 2 scs in C2
ROW 65:
● 3 scs in C1
ROW 66:
● 1 sc in C2
ROW 67:
● 5 scs in C1
ROW 68 - ROW 70:

ROW 71:
● 1 sc in C2
ROW 72:
● 7 scs in C1
ROW 73:
ROW 74:
● 6 scs in C1
ROW 75:
● 1 sc in C3
ROW 76:
● 4 scs in C1
ROW 77:
● 2 scs in C2
ROW 78:
● 3 scs in C1
ROW 79:
● 1 sc in C2
ROW 80:
● 4 scs in C1
ROW 81:
● 1 sc in C2
ROW 82:
● 7 scs in C1
ROW 83 - ROW 90:

If you’d like, add a stitch marker to mark ROW 85 - this may make it easier when attaching the
strap to the main body, however it’s absolutely not compulsory.
Note that for these rows, you can choose to cut off the strands of C2 and C3 to conserve yarn,
and reattach these colours again later on. Personally, I prefer not to do this and instead continue
to crochet over the two strands as this makes the strap thicker and sturdier.
ROW 91:
ROW 92:
● 7 scs in C1
ROW 93:
● 1 sc in C3
ROW 94:
● 5 scs in C1
ROW 95:
● 2 scs in C3
ROW 96:
ROW 97:
● 2 scs in C3
ROW 98:
● 2 scs in C3
ROW 99:
● 1 sc in C2
ROW 100:
ROW 101:
● 7 scs in C2
ROW 102:
● 2 scs in C1
ROW 103:
● 1 sc in C1
ROW 104:
● 4 scs in C1
ROW 105 - ROW 110:

ROW 111:
8 scs in C1. Ch1 and fasten off. Your strap is now complete!
Part 5: Attaching the pieces of the bag together
Now that all 4 pieces of your bag are ready - the two sides of the main body, the base, and the
strap - we can begin to attach them together.
First we will work on attaching the two sides of the bag to the base. Align the base of the bag
and the wrong side of one main body panel as shown in the image below. Attach yarn in C1
through the corner of both pieces, and ch1. We will now be placing scs in C1 through both
layers to attach the two pieces. Once you’ve placed scs all the way along the two pieces, ch1
and fasten off.
Repeat these steps to attach the other main body panel to the base.
We will now work to attach the strap to the bag. First we will attach
the strap to the base of the bag exactly as pictured on the right (so
that the long side of the first half butterfly aligns with the right side of
panel #1).
Now attach yarn in C1 through both corners of the base and strap
and ch1. Place scs in C1 through both layers as you go along - note
there won’t be exact stitches to go through, just place the scs
wherever you find a space, and try your best to keep it straight and
aligned. Once you’ve reached the end of the base of the bag and
strap, ch1 and fasten off.
Now that we’ve attached the strap to the bottom of our bag, we’ll attach one side of the strap to
one side of the main body, then to the other.
To attach these two pieces, we will once again be placing scs through both layers. You have two
options here:
1. CHANGING COLOURS:
● Begin by attaching yarn in C1 by going through both the bottom corner of the strap and
the bag
● Place scs in C1 whenever you are attaching plain edges, then change colour to C3 to
whenever you are attaching a section with a butterfly
● As you go along, try to align the top of your bag to the 27th row of the strap - where you
might have placed a stitch marker previously
● Once you reach the top of the bag and the stitch marker, ch1 and fasten off
2. SINGLE COLOUR:
● Begin by attaching yarn in C1 by going through both the bottom corner of the strap and
the bag
● Place scs in C1 through both layers of the strap and bag to attach the two
● As you go along, try to align the top of your bag to the 27th row of the strap - where you
might have placed a stitch marker previously
● Once you reach the top of the bag and the stitch marker, ch1 and fasten off
Honestly, it won’t make too much of a difference either way, so if you’re feeling a little unsure
about changing colours please just go with the second option!
Now that the strap is attached to the bottom and to one side of the main body, repeat the
previous few steps to attach the strap to the other side of the main body.
Now the strap is fully attached to one side of your bag! Repeat all the previous steps to attach
the strap to the other side of the bag - make sure you don’t twist the strap as you bend it over to
reach the other side of the base.
Once you’ve finished attaching the strap to your bag, turn it inside out to hide the seams where
we’ve attached the pieces together.
Part 6: Adding the final edging
To finish the bag off, we will be adding a trim in C2 along both sides
of the bag. This step is optional, but I’d highly recommend it as it’s
quite simple and will give your bag a much cleaner look!
Begin by attaching your yarn in C2 as shown in the diagram below,

and ch1. We will now be placing scs in C2 all along the top of the
bag and along one side of the strap, following the flow shown in the
picture below. Do note that you won’t always have exact stitches to
place your scs in - just place them wherever you find a space! Once
you’ve gone all the way around, and reached the first sc you made
again (where you attached the yarn), ss into this first sc, ch1 and
fasten off.
Now that we’ve finished the trim along one side, repeat these steps to add the trim to the other
side of your bag.
Your butterfly shoulder bag is now complete!
I hope you’ve enjoyed making this pattern, and make sure to share your creations on Instagram
and tag me @knittingdaisiess so I can see your work - I’ll be sure to share to my story or repost
to my account (if you’d like, of course). Like I said before, if you have any questions at all,
please reach out to me by messaging me on Etsy or Instagram and I’d love to help.
Please note that you are not permitted to share any part of the pattern for free or for sale. Feel
free to sell physical recreations of this pattern (the bag itself), but please credit me / tag my
instagram.
Instagram & Etsy: @knittingdaisiess

Follow my instagram to get the first look at my newest patterns and to participate in giveaways!

Butterfly Shoulder Bag: Crochet Pattern

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Description:

Original Title

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Butterfly Shoulder Bag: Crochet Pattern

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

BUTTERFLY SHOULDER BAG

A note on the instructions

Abbreviations used - this pattern uses US crochet terminology

St = stitch Ss = slip stitch

Part 1: Creating the first side of the main body

Part 1A: Creating the rectangular portion of the main body

Written instructions: P1A

Part 1B: Making decreasing top section on first side

One side of the main body of your bag is now complete!

Part 2: Creating the second side of the main body

Tapestry chart: P2A

Part 2B: Making decreasing top section on first side

Part 2C: Making decreasing top section on other side

Begin by chaining 37 in C1.

Part 4: Creating the strap of the bag

ROW 40 - ROW 42:

ROW 54 - ROW 55:

ROW 68 - ROW 70:

ROW 83 - ROW 90:

ROW 105 - ROW 110:

Part 5: Attaching the pieces of the bag together

Part 6: Adding the final edging

Begin by attaching your yarn in C2 as shown in the diagram below,

Your butterfly shoulder bag is now complete!

Instagram & Etsy: @knittingdaisiess

You might also like