FLAMES SHOULDER BAG

Crochet Pattern

Materials
NOTE: Feel free to use any size/type of yarn and the appropriate hook, just note that your
dimensions will then vary accordingly from mine. I chose to use standard milk cotton yarn (thick
weight 3) with a 4mm hook.
● Three colours of yarn - recommended weight 3 or weight 4 (I used a weight 3 yarn which
is on the thicker end, so if you’re worried about the bag turning out a bit too small I
suggest going up to weight 4)
● A crochet hook - recommended 4mm or larger
● A pair of scissors
● A yarn needle
● Optional: stitch markers (you can always improvise with bobby pins, safety pins, etc.)

Dimensions
Below are the approximate dimensions of my shoulder bag - note that this will vary slightly
according to the type of yarn and hook size you use:
Width: 26cm
Height: 20cm
Strap length: 45cm

Construction
Instructions for this project will be split into the following sections:
1. Creating the main body of the bag
2. Creating the base/bottom of the bag
3. Creating the strap of the bag
4. Attaching the pieces of the bag together
5. Adding the final edging
A note on the instructions
The pattern for this bag will include tapestry charts for the main body of the bag, the base of the
bag, and the strap of the bag. The bag is constructed entirely of single crochets, so if you find it
easier to follow a chart, go ahead and crochet along with the chart, making 1 single crochet in
every stitch indicated. However, if you aren’t as comfortable with reading off charts, or would
simply like to use the charts as a reference point to what your work should look like as you go
along, I’ve also included step-by-step written instructions for creating each part of the bag. Also
note that I reference the three colours as follows:
● C1 (Colour 1) = the colour of the bottom flames, e.g. yellow in the middle bag pictured
● C2 (Colour 2) = the colour of the top flames, e.g. red in the middle bag pictured
● C3 (Colour 3) = the colour of the remaining part of the main body/strap, e.g. black in the
middle bag pictured

Changing colour
E.g. How to change colour from C1 to C2:
Make your last sc in C1 by inserting your hook through the st and pulling up a loop in C1.
However, do not yarn over and pull through a loop in C1 to complete the sc. Instead, yarn over
and pull through a loop in C2. From the next sc onwards, work in C2.

For example, if the instructions say, “1 sc in C2, change colour to C1, 5 scs in C1,” complete the
sc of C2 by pulling through a loop in C1. Then from the next st onwards, work 5 scs in C1.

If the instructions say to, “Change colour to C2, ch1 and turn your work,” at the end of a row of
C1 (for example), you would make your last sc of the row in C1 and end it by pulling through in
C2, as before, and then end by chaining 1 in C2.
Note that when you are working in one colour, e.g. C1, hold the C2 and C3’s strand of yarn in
line with your row, and ensure you place your scs of C1 over the strand of C2 and C3 in order to
hide these other colours (and vice versa when you’re working in C2 or C3 instead of C1).

A little tip; if you see too much of the other colours poking out through your work, this likely
means you’re not pulling tightly enough - when working one colour, e.g. C1, ensure you pull the
strands of C2 and C3 relatively tight as you crochet over them - this will help hide them better!
Do note that the other colours can’t be hidden completely - it is normal for them to be somewhat
visible, as you can see in my own work.

Abbreviations used - this pattern uses US crochet terminology

Ch = chain Sc = single crochet

St = stitch Ss = slip stitch

Sk = skip

INSTRUCTIONS

if you have any questions at all as you’re going through this pattern, please reach out to me by
messaging me on Etsy or Instagram - I’d be more than happy to help you or explain anything
you might be confused about.

One final note before you start - I’d recommend sewing in your ends as you go along, e.g. once
you finish one piece of the bag, sew in all the ends before you move onto making the next
piece. This will make it easier when it comes to attaching all the pieces of the bag together, and
will save you from having to sew in a ton of ends all at once at the end of the project.
Part 1: Creating the main body of the bag

Part 1A: Creating the rectangular portion of the main body

Tapestry chart: P1A
Chart legend: white = C1, grey = C2, black = C3

Written instructions: P1A

Begin by chaining 37 in C1.

ROW 1: [note - place the first sc in the second ch from your hook]
36 scs in C1, change colour to C2 (new colour). Ch1 and turn your work.

ROW 2:
● 2 scs in C2, change colour to C1
● 3 scs in C1, change colour to C2
● 1 sc in C2, change colour to C1
● 29 scs in C1, change colour to C2
● 1 sc in C2
● Ch1 and turn your work

ROW 3:
● 2 scs in C2, change colour to C1
● 16 scs in C1, change colour to C2
 ● 2 scs in C2, change colour to C1
● 4 scs in C1, change colour to C2
● 3 scs in C2, change colour to C1
● 3 scs in C1, change colour to C2
● 2 scs in C2, change colour to C1
● 1 sc in C1, change colour to C2
● 2 scs in C2, change colour to C3 (new colour)
● 1 sc in C3
● Ch1 and turn your work

ROW 4:
● 2 scs in C3, change colour to C2
● 5 scs in C2, change colour to C1
● 2 scs in C1, change colour to C2
● 3 scs in C2, change colour to C1
● 4 scs in C1, change colour to C2
● 2 scs in C2, change colour to C1
● 5 scs in C1, change colour to C2
● 1 sc in C2, change colour to C1
● 5 scs in C1, change colour to C2
● 2 scs in C2, change colour to C1
● 2 scs in C1, change colour to C2
● 2 scs in C2, change colour to C3
● 1 sc in C3
● Ch1 and turn your work

ROW 5:
● 2 scs in C3, change colour to C2
● 2 scs in C2, change colour to C1
● 1 sc in C1, change colour to C2
● 2 scs in C2, change colour to C1
● 4 scs in C1, change colour to C2
● 2 scs in C2, change colour to C1
● 6 scs in C1, change colour to C2
● 1 sc in C2, change colour to C1
● 5 scs in C1, change colour to C2
● 2 scs in C2, change colour to C1
● 2 scs in C1, change colour to C2
● 2 scs in C2, change colour to C3
● 1 sc in C3, change colour to C2
● 1 sc in C2, change colour to C3
● 3 scs in C3
● Ch1 and turn your work
ROW 6:
● 5 scs in C3, change colour to C2
● 2 scs in C2, change colour to C1
● 1 sc in C1, change colour to C2
● 3 scs in C2, change colour to C1
● 1 sc in C1, change colour to C2
● 1 sc in C2, change colour to C1
● 1 sc in C1, change colour to C2
● 1 sc in C2, change colour to C1
● 1 sc in C1, change colour to C2
● 3 scs in C2, change colour to C1
● 3 scs in C1, change colour to C2
● 3 scs in C2, change colour to C1
● 4 scs in C1, change colour to C2
● 5 scs in C2, change colour to C3
● 2 scs in C3
● Ch1 and turn your work

ROW 7:
● 2 scs in C3, change colour to C2
● 6 scs in C2, change colour to C1
● 2 scs in C1, change colour to C2
● 5 scs in C2, change colour to C1
● 2 scs in C1, change colour to C2
● 5 scs in C2, change colour to C1
● 1 sc in C1, change colour to C2
● 7 scs in C2, change colour to C3
● 6 scs in C3
● Ch1 and turn your work

ROW 8:
● 7 scs in C3, change colour to C2
● 12 scs in C2, change colour to C1
● 1 sc in C1, change colour to C2
● 6 scs in C2, change colour to C1
● 1 sc in C1, change colour to C2
● 6 scs in C2, change colour to C3
● 3 scs in C3
● Ch1 and turn your work
● You can now cut off the strand of C1 - we will no longer be crocheting with this colour

ROW 9:
● 4 scs in C3, change colour to C2
● 2 scs in C2, change colour to C3
 ● 1 sc in C3, change colour to C2
● 4 scs in C2, change colour to C3
● 1 sc in C3, change colour to C2
● 7 scs in C2, change colour to C3
● 3 scs in C3, change colour to C2
● 4 scs in C2, change colour to C3
● 2 scs in C3, change colour to C2
● 1 sc in C2, change colour to C3
● 7 scs in C3
● Ch1 and turn your work

ROW 10:
● 10 scs in C3, change colour to C2
● 4 scs in C2, change colour to C3
● 3 scs in C3, change colour to C2
● 5 scs in C2, change colour to C3
● 3 scs in C3, change colour to C2
● 4 scs in C2, change colour to C3
● 2 scs in C3, change colour to C2
● 1 sc in C2, change colour to C3
● 4 scs in C3
● Ch1 and turn your work

ROW 11:
● 4 scs in C3, change colour to C2
● 1 sc in C2, change colour to C3
● 2 scs in C3, change colour to C2
● 3 scs in C2, change colour to C3
● 5 scs in C3, change colour to C2
● 3 scs in C2, change colour to C3
● 5 scs in C3, change colour to C2
● 3 scs in C2, change colour to C3
● 10 scs in C3
● Ch1 and turn your work

ROW 12:
● 11 scs in C3, change colour to C2
● 2 scs in C2, change colour to C3
● 6 scs in C3, change colour to C2
● 2 scs in C2, change colour to C3
● 5 scs in C3, change colour to C2
● 2 scs in C2, change colour to C3
● 8 scs in C3
● Ch1 and turn your work
ROW 13:
● 8 scs in C3, change colour to C2
● 2 scs in C2, change colour to C3
● 5 scs in C3, change colour to C2
● 2 scs in C2, change colour to C3
● 6 scs in C3, change colour to C2
● 2 scs in C2, change colour to C3
● 11 scs in C3
● Ch1 and turn your work

ROW 14:
● 11 scs in C3, change colour to C2
● 1 sc in C2, change colour to C3
● 8 scs in C3, change colour to C2
● 1 sc in C2, change colour to C3
● 5 scs in C3, change colour to C2
● 1 sc in C2, change colour to C3
● 9 scs in C3
● Ch1 and turn your work
● You can now cut off the strand of C2 - we will no longer be crocheting with this colour

ROW 15 - ROW 21:

36 scs in C3, ch1 and turn your work - do NOT fasten off; move onto part 1B of the instructions.
Part 1B: Making decreasing top section on first side
ROW 22:
12 scs in C3. Ch1 and turn your work.

ROW 23:
Sk 1 st, 11 scs in C3. Ch1 and turn your work.

ROW 24:
8 scs in C3, sk 2 sts, 1 sc in C3. Ch1 and turn your work.

ROW 25:
Sk 1 st, 8 scs in C3. Ch1 and turn your work.

ROW 26:
5 scs in C3, sk 2 sts, 1 sc in C3. Ch1 and turn your work.

ROW 27:
Sk 1 st, 5 scs in C3. Ch1 and fasten off.
Part 1C: Making decreasing top section on other side
Attach your yarn in C3 to the other corner of your main body, ch1 and repeat ROW 22 - ROW 27
from part 1B.

One side of the main body of your bag is now complete. Repeat all the steps above one more
time to create the other side of your bag.

Part 2: Creating the base/bottom of the bag

Begin by chaining 37 in C1.

ROW 1: [note - place the first sc in the second ch from your hook]
36 scs in C1. Ch1 and turn your work.

ROW 2 - ROW 5:
36 scs in C1. Ch1 and turn your work.

ROW 6:
36 scs in C1. Ch1 and fasten off.
Part 3: Creating the strap of the bag

The instructions for the strap are split into 3 different parts - the first 27 rows, the middle 57 (or
more) rows, and the last 27 rows.

Part 3A: The first 27 rows of the strap

Tapestry chart: P3A
Chart legend: white = C1, grey = C2, black = C3
Begin by chaining 9 in C1, and then follow the chart. Do NOT fasten off once you finish - move
onto part 3B.
Written instructions: P3A
Begin by chaining 9 in C1.

ROW 1: [note - place the first sc in the second ch from your hook]
8 scs in C1. Change colour to C2, ch1 and turn your work.

ROW 2:
● 2 scs in C2, change colour to C1
● 4 scs in C1, change colour to C2
● 2 scs in C2
● Ch1 and turn your work.

ROW 3:
● 3 scs in C2, change colour to C1
● 2 scs in C1, change colour to C2
● 3 scs in C2, change colour to C3 (new colour)
● Ch1 and turn your work

ROW 4:
● 1 sc in C3, change colour to C2
● 2 scs in C2, change colour to C1
● 1 sc in C1, change colour to C2
● 3 scs in C2, change colour to C3
● 1 sc in C3
● Ch1 and turn your work
● You can now cut off the strand of C1 - we will only be coming back to this colour towards
the end of the strap, at which point we can reattach this colour

ROW 5:
● 3 scs in C3, change colour to C2
● 3 scs in C2, change colour to C3
● 2 scs in C3
● Ch1 and turn your work

ROW 6:
● 3 scs in C3, change colour to C2
● 1 sc in C2, change colour to C3
● 4 scs in C3
● Ch1 and turn your work
● You can now cut off the strand of C2 - we will only be coming back to this colour towards
the end of the strap, at which point we can reattach this colour

ROW 7 - ROW 26:

8 scs in C3. Ch1 and turn your work.
ROW 27:
8 scs in C3. Ch1 and turn your work (do NOT fasten off - move onto part 3B). If you’d like, add a
stitch marker to mark this row - this may make it easier when attaching the strap to the main
body, however it’s absolutely not compulsory.

Part 3B: The middle 57 (or more) rows of the strap

ROW 1 - ROW 57:
8 scs in C3. Ch1 and turn your work (do NOT fasten off - move onto part 3C).
If you’d like a longer strap, feel free add as many rows of scs in C3 as you’d like before moving
onto part 3C.
Part 3C: The last 27 rows of the strap
Tapestry chart: P3C
Chart legend: white = C1, grey = C2, black = C3
We will now just be working the chart from part 3A in reverse. Once you finish, ch1 and fasten
off - your strap is now complete!

Written instructions: P3C

We will now just be working the instructions from part 3A in reverse.

ROW 1:
8 scs in C3. Ch1 and turn your work. If you’d like, add a stitch marker to mark this row - this may
make it easier when attaching the strap to the main body, however it’s not absolutely not
compulsory.

ROW 2 - ROW 21:

8 scs in C3. Ch1 and turn your work.
ROW 22:
● 4 scs in C3, change colour to C2 (new colour)
● 1 sc in C2, change colour to C3
● 3 scs in C3
● Ch1 and turn your work

ROW 23:
● 2 scs in C3, change colour to C2
● 3 scs in C2, change colour to C3
● 3 scs in C3
● Ch1 and turn your work

ROW 24:
● 1 sc in C3, change colour to C2
● 3 scs in C2, change colour to C1 (new colour)
● 1 sc in C1, change colour to C2
● 2 scs in C2, change colour to C3
● 1 sc in C3, change colour to C2
● Ch1 and turn your work
● You can now cut off the strand of C3 - we will no longer be using this colour for the strap

ROW 25:
● 3 scs in C2, change colour to C1
● 2 scs in C1, change colour to C2
● 3 scs in C2
● Ch1 and turn your work

ROW 26:
● 2 scs in C2, change colour to C1
● 4 scs in C1, change colour to C2
● 2 scs in C2, change colour to C1
● Ch1 and turn your work
● You can now cut off the strand of C2 - we will no longer be using this colour for the strap

ROW 27:
8 scs in C1. Ch1 and fasten off - your strap is now complete!
Part 4: Attaching the pieces of the bag together

Now that all 4 pieces of your bag are ready - the two sides of the main body, the base, and the
strap - we can begin to attach them together.

First we will work on attaching the two sides of the bag to the base. Align the base of the bag
and one side of the main body as shown in the image below. Attach yarn in C1 through the
corner of both pieces, and ch1. We will now be placing scs in C1 through both layers to attach
the two pieces. Once you’ve placed scs all the way along the two pieces, ch1 and fasten off.

Repeat these steps to attach the other side of the bag to the base.
We will now work to attach the strap to the bag. First we will attach the base of the strap to the
base of the bag - to do so, attach yarn in C1 through both corners of the base and strap and
ch1. Place scs in C1 through both layers as you go along - note there won’t be exact stitches to
go through, just place the scs wherever you find a space, and try your best to keep it straight
and aligned. Once you’ve reached the end of the base of the bag and strap, ch1 and fasten off.

Now that we’ve attached the strap to the bottom of our bag, we’ll attach one side of the strap to
one side of the main body, then to the other.

To attach these two pieces, we will once again be placing scs through both layers. You have two
options here:

1. CHANGING COLOURS:
● Begin by attaching yarn in C1 by going through both the bottom corner of the strap and
the bag
● Place your first few scs in C1 to attach the flames together, then change colour to C3 to
attach the remaining length of the bag and strap
● As you go along, try to align the top of your bag to the 27th row of the strap - where you
might have placed a stitch marker previously
● Once you reach the top of the bag and the stitch marker, ch1 and fasten off

2. SINGLE COLOUR:
● Begin by attaching yarn in C3 by going through both the bottom corner of the strap and
the bag
● Place scs in C3 through both layers of the strap and bag to attach the two
● As you go along, try to align the top of your bag to the 27th row of the strap - where you
might have placed a stitch marker previously
● Once you reach the top of the bag and the stitch marker, ch1 and fasten off
Honestly, it won’t make too much of a difference either way, so if you’re feeling a little unsure
about changing colours please just go with the second option!

Now that the strap is attached to the bottom and to one side of the main body, repeat the
previous few steps to attach the strap to the other side of the main body.
Now the strap is fully attached to one side of your bag! Repeat all the previous steps to attach
the strap to the other side of the bag - make sure you don’t twist the strap as you bend it over to
reach the other side of the base.

Once you’ve finished attaching the strap to your bag, turn it inside out to hide the seams where
we’ve attached the pieces together.
Part 5: Adding the final edging

To finish the bag off, we will be adding a trim in C3 along both

sides of the bag. This step is optional, but I’d highly
recommend it as it’s quite simple and will give your bag a
much cleaner look!

Begin by attaching your yarn in C3 as shown in the diagram

below, and ch1. We will now be placing scs in C3 all along the
top of the bag and along one side of the strap, following the
flow shown in the picture below. Do note that you won’t
always have exact stitches to place your scs in - just place
them wherever you find a space! Once you’ve gone all the
way around, and reached the first sc you made again (where
you attached the yarn), ss into this first sc, ch1 and fasten off.

Now that we’ve finished the trim along one side, repeat these
steps to add the trim to the other side of your bag.

Your flames shoulder bag is now complete!

I hope you’ve enjoyed making this pattern, and make sure to share your creations on Instagram
and tag me @knittingdaisiess so I can see your work - I’ll be sure to share to my story or repost
to my account (if you’d like, of course). Like I said before, if you have any questions at all,
please reach out to me by messaging me on Etsy or Instagram and I’d love to help.

Please note that you are not permitted to share any part of the pattern for free or for sale. Feel
free to sell physical recreations of this pattern (the bag itself), but please credit me / tag my
instagram.

Instagram & Etsy: @knittingdaisiess

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