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Pistachio Tartlet

January 20, 2022

! PASTRIES, TARTLETS " 0

One year ends, another begins. I used to get excited


about it once. Now… a little bit less. Now I tell myself,
hold on time, slow down… where are you o! to? But
time doesn’t listen and keeps going on its own hasty
way, just like the white rabbit with his pocket watch.
Oh well, I guess I’ll press on too. I’ll keep falling in this
rabbit hole, or in my reality, this time hole, hoping that
this year, just like Alice, I will also land safely.

I celebrated the passing of time with some friends at


home. In the last few weeks, I was busy with my niece
Yasmine’s birthday project, so I didn’t have enough
time to plan what to bake for my New Year’s guests.
The night before I decided to make a dessert out of
whatever I had in the kitchen. It was clear, with my
hoard of pistachios from Bronte, I’m going to make a
pistachio dessert.

I baked a pistachio tartlet. The dessert was actually a


little pistachio celebration inspired by all of the other
pistachio desserts I made in the last year. I found
leftover pie dough I kept from this brûlée tart I made
not long ago. I filled the crusts with baked pistachio
cream like I did in this pistachio and raspberry tart.
Finally, I added a crunchy pistachio layer and a
pistachio crémeux like I did in this pistachio and cherry
mousse cake. At least this year is starting on a green
foot.

Some notes for the new year

* In this pistachio tartlet recipe, I use natural


natural
pistachio butter
butter. You can probably find it in most
nature stores. Pistachio butter is made from 100%
pistachios, with no added oil, and doesn’t taste bitter
at all (please taste it before you use it).

* It’s important to make the dough in a cold


cold
environment
environment (the ingredients should be cold as well).
Make sure that the kitchen is cold throughout the
process. If the dough softens while working with it, put
it in the fridge for a short rest.

*  In this recipe I use a Silpan 


Silpan to improve the baking of
the crust. If you don’t have one, blind bake the crust
and use pie weights, just like I did in this post.

*  Pailleté feuilletine
Pailleté feuilletine: or in other words, caramelized
wafer flakes. You can find it in most baking supply
stores. You can also make it at home. Just get wafer
rolls and crumble the crunchy layer that covers the
filling.

Ingredients

Gelatin mass *
3 g gelatin powder
15 g water

Pistachio crémeux
50 g natural pistachio butter
50 g white chocolate
12 g gelatin mass
80 g heavy cream 38%
80 g milk 3%
40 g egg yolk 
yolk (from 2 large eggs)
20 g sugar

Vanilla crust
235 g all-purpose flour
30 g almond powder
90 g powdered sugar
½ tsp salt
120 g cold butter 
butter (cut into cubes)
56 g eggs 
eggs (1 large egg)
1 tsp vanilla paste

Baked pistachio cream


55 g powdered sugar
56 g shelled pistachios
55 g soft butter
butter (at room temperature)
56 g eggs
eggs (1 large egg at room temperature)

Pistachio streusel
30 g shelled pistachios
15 g all-purpose flour
15 g demerara sugar
¼ tsp salt
15 g butter

Pistachio crunch
55 g natural pistachio butter
30 g pailleté
pailleté feuilletine
feuilletine
60 g pistachio streusel
30 g milk chocolate
15 g dark chocolate 58%

Decoration
About 100 g shelled pistachios

Equipment
6 round baking rings, 8 cm diameter & 2.5 cm
height
6 round baking rings, 7 cm diameter
Thermometer
Measuring pitcher
Mesh sieve
Hand blender

* The amount of gelatin is too small to


weigh?
weigh? You can make a bigger batch, let’s say 10 g
gelatin powder and 50 g water and just weigh 14 g
from the final mass to the recipe.

The recipe makes 6 pistachio tartlet

Advance prep

Gelatin mass: Sprinkle gelatin powder over the water,


mix well and keep in the fridge for at least half an hour.
If the resulting texture is too spongy or lumpy, heat the
gelatin mass gently just to melt it and put it back in the
fridge to set again. Cut into small pieces before use.

Roasted pistachios for decoration: Preheat the oven to


160 °C / 320 °F. Scatter about100
100 g shelled
pistachios
pistachios on a baking tray and roast for about 7
minutes until they brown a bit. Cool at room
temperature. Put roasted pistachios in a small food
processor. Grind in short pulses until crushed. Transfer
to a small bowl and set aside.

Pistachio crémeux

Prepare the smaller rings: warm the rings a little on low


heat. Cover the bottom of the rings with plastic wrap
by pulling and attaching it to the sides to form a flat
sealed bottom. Place the rings on a flat tray.

Put white chocolate in a measuring pitcher. Add


pistachio butter and gelatin mass. Place a sieve on top.

Put milk, heavy cream, sugar and egg yolks in a


saucepan and mix. Heat on medium heat up to a
temperature of 80-82 °C / 176-180 °F (it’s ok to go a
little higher, but not more than 84 °C / 183 °F), while
while
mixing energetically, but gently, with a
spatula
spatula to prevent the egg yolk from congealing
(especially at the bottom of the saucepan).

Remove from heat and pour immediately through the


sieve into the measuring pitcher (to get rid of egg
chunks that may have hardened while cooking). Mix a
little bit with a spatula and then use a hand blender to
blend it to a uniform consistency.

Pour the mixture into the the rings up to a height of 1


cm. Keep in the freezer for at least 2 hours or until set.

Crust

Put flour, almond powder, powdered sugar, salt and


butter cubes in the mixer bowl and keep in the fridge
for about 10 minutes. Remove from fridge.

Using the paddle attachment, start mixing at low-


medium speed until the batter reaches sand-like
consistency. Make sure the butter chunks are as small
as possible at the end of the process without melting
the butter. Make sure the
the room is chilled
chilled.

Using a fork, whisk the egg yolk with the vanilla. Add
the egg mixture all at once and keep mixing at medium
speed until the dough starts to form but is not yet
completely uniform. Remove dough parts from the
bowl and combine. Divide the dough in two equal
parts. Keep one part in the fridge for the meantime.

Place the second part on top of a parchment paper.


Flatten the dough a little bit and lay another
parchment paper on top. Roll out the dough with a
rolling pin between the two parchment papers to 3
mm thickness. Keep turning the dough throughout.

Place the dough with the parchment papers on a tray.


Keep in the fridge for at least an hour or two. Repeat
the process with the other part of the dough.

Fonçage:

Lightly butter the inner side of the larger baking rings


so that the dough sticks to them. When the dough is
ready, peel parchment papers from both sides. Place
the dough back on one of the papers.

Using a ruler and a sharp knife, cut 3 strips from the


dough, each 24 cm long and 3 cm wide. Place 3 rings
on top of the dough and cut out 3 circles. Leave the
dough inside the rings. Lift a strip of dough and attach
it to the inner side of one ring. Attach the edges and
cut the excess dough.

Please note (!)


(!) If at any point the dough starts to
soften, put it back in the fridge until it is slightly sti!
again.

Gently press down on the sides so that the corners at


the bottom form a right angle. Go over the top of the
ring with a sharp knife and remove the excess dough.
Prick the bottom of the crust all over with a fork.

Repeat the process with the rest of the rings and then
with the second part of the dough. Keep the crusts in
the freezer until the dough is sti! (about half an hour).

Baking:

Preheat oven to 170 °C (340 °F). When the desired


temperature is reached, remove the crusts from the
freezer and set them on a baking tray lined with a
Silpan (if you don’t have one, blind bake the crust and
use pie weights, just like I did in this post).

Place immediately in the oven and bake for about


16-18 minutes, until the crust begins to brown.
Remove from the oven and set aside to cool.

Release the crusts from the ring. Brush the top of the
crusts against a flat mesh sieve to straighten the edges
and give it a cleaner, sharper look. Clean the crumbs
from inside the crusts using a clean brush. Set aside.

Baked pistachio cream

Preheat oven to 170 °C (340 °F). Put pistachios and


powdered sugar in a small food processor and ground
to a fine powder. Transfer to the mixer bowl and add
soft butter. Attach the paddle attachment and mix on
low-medium speed until you get a uniform mixture.

Add the egg gradually


gradually to the butter mixture and keep
mixing. Scrape the sides of the bowl occasionally. Keep
mixing until you get a uniform cream. Transfer the
cream into the crusts up to half their height (use a bent
spoon to flatten the surface evenly).

Put the crusts back in the oven. Bake for about 16-19
minutes, until the cream is set and starts separating
from the rim of the crusts. Remove from the oven and
set aside to cool.

Pistachio streusel

Preheat oven to 170 °C (340 °F). In a food processor,


grind pistachios and flour together to a powder. Add
sugar, butter and salt. Grind in short pulses until you
get a crumble.

Spread the crumbly mixture on a baking tray lined with


parchment paper. Place in the oven and bake for 8-10
minutes until golden brown. Remove from the oven
and let it cool at room temperature. Weigh the amount
needed for the pistachio crunch.

Pistachio crunch

Put pistachio butter, pailleté feuilletine and pistachio


streusel in a bowl. Melt milk and dark chocolate
together (on a double boiler or in a microwave). Add
the melted chocolate to the mixture and mix until
uniform. The texture should resemble a crunchy
spread. If the mixture is not spreadable, add a little bit
more melted chocolate (5-10 g).

Assembly & decoration

Using an o!set spatula, spread the pistachio crunch on


top of each tart and flatten the surface to be levelled
with the rim of the crust. Set aside.

Remove the pistachio crémeux from the freezer and


release it from the ring by warming the outer side of
the ring with the warmth of your hands. Do it on top of
the tart. The crémeux will just slide out by itself and
land on top of the tart.

Wait a little bit till the crémeux thaws a little and


creates a thin shiny layer around it that will allow the
pistachios to adhere to it. Decorate the crémeux with
crushed roasted pistachios, on top and all around it
(gently press the pistachios with your hand).

That’s all basically. Keep the pistachio tartlet in the


fridge for about 2-3 days in an airtight container.

! 1

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