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 CONTENTS

REGULARS
AUGUST TRENDS

20 EDITOR’S LETTER
26 OUT OF OFFICE
It’s time to suit up in smart
NOTICES separates, now tailor-made
Behind the scenes of the issue for work as well as play.
Styled and edited by Jessica Gerardi.

60 FORCES FOR CHANGE

Model and double amputee
Lauren Wasser shares her
Photographs by Matt Healy

JEWELLERY
deeply personal journey & WATCHES
from recovery to runway

78 CHECKLIST 41 JOY TO BEHOLD

Fun-loving jewels.
Follow the sunshine in By Rachel Garrahan
pretty pastel hues perfect
for summer
42 THAT ’70S GLOW
Retro-inspired wristwear.

180 STOCKISTS By Rachel Garrahan

SUSTAINABILITY

47 CIRCULAR LOGIC
Are attitudes to rewearing,
repairing and reselling finally
turning around?
By Dana Thomas

ARTS & CULTURE

49 WAY OUT WEST

Notting Hill Carnival
celebrations à la Vogue

VIEWPOINT

COVER LOOKS
From left: Cara Delevingne wears T-shirt, CARA LOVES KARL. Corset, MANUEL
52 UNCOMMON THREADS
One writer unpicks her past
romances – and the outfits
ALBARRAN, at The Residency Experience. Boots, BOTTEGA VENETA. Ring, Cara’s that tied them together.
own. Cynthia Erivo wears shirt, tie, and trousers, LOUIS VUITTON. Rings, MANUEL
ALBARRAN, at The Residency Experience. All other jewellery, Cynthia’s own. Hair: By Emma Forrest
EARL SIMMS. Make-up: GISELLE ALI. Ariana DeBose wears vest, COLORFUL
STANDARD. Skort, DIOR. Belt, GRAHAM CRUZ. Earrings, SLIM BARRETT.
Bracelet (top), CHANEL FINE JEWELLERY. Bracelet (botttom), VAN CLEEF & MR VOGUE
ARPELS. Ring, Ariana’s own. Jordan Barrett wears trousers, BOTTEGA VENETA.
Cuff, COSTUME THERAPY. Ring, Jordan’s own. Munroe Bergdorf wears dress
(shortened by stylist), VICTOR GLEMAUD. Belt, GRAHAM CRUZ. Cuff, MANUEL
ALBARRAN, at The Residency Experience. Sheerah Ravindren wears body, SAVAGE &
FENTY. Belt, GRAHAM CRUZ. Boots, DR MARTENS. Necklace with popcorn chain,
57 PLAYING WITH FIRE
Actor Fabien Frankel.
By Radhika Seth. Photograph by Sam
ALIGHIERI. All other jewellery, Sheerah’s own. Cameron Lee Phan wears sweater and
trousers, ALEXANDER McQUEEN. Cuffs, MANUEL ALBARRAN, at The Wilson. Styling by Elgar Johnson
Residency Experience. Rings, ANGELS FANCY DRESS. Aweng Chuol wears shirt,
COMME DES GARCONS SHIRT, at Dover Street Market. Corset, MANUEL
ALBARRAN, at The Residency Experience. Boots, BALENCIAGA. Nathan Westling LIVING
wears shirt, tie, and trousers, GUCCI. Cuffs, MANUEL ALBARRAN, at The Residency
Experience. Valentina Sampaio wears vest, COLORFUL STANDARD. Miniskirt,
16ARLINGTON. Sandals, GIANVITO ROSSI. Rings, COSTUME THERAPY.
Gottmik wears T-shirt, GAP. Trousers and boots, ALEXANDER McQUEEN. Headpiece
and collar, MANUEL ALBARRAN, at The Residency Experience. Kai-Isaiah Jamal
wears vest, BOTTEGA VENETA. Miniskirt and shorts, MIU MIU. Cuffs, MANUEL
65 LIFE & STYLE
By Julia Sarr-Jamois

THE VOGUE 25
67
ALBARRAN, at The Residency Experience. Hair: EUGENE SOULEIMAN.
Make-up: ISAMAYA FFRENCH. Nails: ADAM SLEE. Photograph: MERT ALAS
& MARCUS PIGGOTT. Styling: EDWARD ENNINFUL
> 18

13
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CONTENTS
CITY TRANSFER, page 128

BEAUTY & WELLNESS

82 SUMMER BREEZE
Warm-weather fragrances.
By Jessica Diner

84 BEAUTY MUSINGS
Seasonal beauty refreshers.
By Hannah Coates

87 RAISING THE BAR

Simple cleansing made chic.
By Lauren Murdoch-Smith.
Photograph by David Abrahams

88 THE LIPSTICK INDEX

From high shine to matt red.
By Tish Weinstock

WELLNESS SPECIAL
91 Edited by Kathleen Baird-Murray

FASHION & FEATURES 140 SEVILLE LIBERTIES

Dior’s reign in Spain.
Photographs by David Gomez-Maestre.

112 PRIDE
Twelve stars of the
Styling by Beatriz Machado

LGBTQ+ community unite.

By Paris Lees. Photographs
by Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott.
146 INTO THE LIGHT
Actor, singer and social
media sensation Keke Palmer
Styling by Edward Enninful gets set to break through like
never before.

128 CITY TRANSFER

It’s time to get on-board
for the autumn/winter
By Carina Chocano. Photographs
by Greg Williams. Styling by
Law Roach
2022 collections.
Photographs: Craig McDean.
Fashion editor: Grace Coddington 152 JUST PRESS PLAY
New-season highlights.
Photographs by Thue Nørgaard.
Styling by Poppy Kain

166 FAMILY FORTRESS

Inside Carolina Castiglioni’s
Milanese stronghold.
By Tiziana Cardini. Photographs
by Danilo Scarpati. Styling by
Julia Brenard

170 EXPECTING BETTER

The truth about miscarriage.
By Nell Frizzell

174 ORE STRUCK

DAVID GOMEZ-MAESTRE; CRAIG McDEAN

Bella Hadid dazzles in

high-octane metallic looks.
Photographs by Elizaveta Porodina.
SEVILLE Styling by Gabriella Karefa-Johnson
LIBERTIES,
page 140
VOGUE ASKS
Grace
Valentine wears
embroidered
shawl, DIOR 208 WHAT WOULD
MICHELLE YEOH DO?

18
 T
his summer marks 50 years since
the first official Pride march in
London. What a journey those
decades have been. As a gay man
who has lived in the UK for much of
this period in history, in many
respects I feel enormously lucky:
lucky to have seen the gathering of
more rights; lucky to have witnessed
the increased normalisation of
personal identities, of desires,
of lives. Earlier this year, I felt
especially lucky, on my own 50th
birthday, to have married my
husband, Alec, surrounded by family and friends. Love, it turns out, can win.
For my part, it wasn’t until a couple of decades after that first formal
event in 1972 that I went to my first Pride – in Kennington Park in the
early ’90s – and caught a glimpse of life beyond the binary. There were
speeches, of course, especially devastating back then as the Aids crisis raged
through the city and my friend group. Fury was in the air, but joy too –
music pumping, holding hands, outlandish outfits… It was scary and

MEET & GREET Introducing the faces behind this month’s issue

As she leaves California for London

“Keke is amazing! Such a true
talent,” says British Vogue’s
contributing West Coast editor
Law Roach of actor, comedian
and upcoming star of Jordan
Peele’s Nope Keke Palmer, whom
he styled for Into The Light,
on page 146. Together with
photographer Greg Williams, the
trio created a sun-kissed, 1970s-
inspired shoot to remember.
to start a new chapter, on page 52,
author Emma Forrest unpacks –
literally and figuratively – the
clothes that defined her pre-divorce
life. “Many of the items I pulled
from the cardboard boxes were
quotidian,” she writes. “But there
were a few that – as I held their
fabric in fingers that would
soon enough lose their LA tan –
made me blush, laugh or cry.”

20
 EDITOR’S LETTER

brilliant and important – the sort of

event that stays with you, that forms you.
It certainly formed me.
In the years since, in fashion and
further afield, I have always sought to
bring my gayness with me. Accordingly, in
this important year in LGBTQ+ history, I
wanted to do something extra special for
the August issue of British Vogue. On the CYNTHIA
ERIVO (opposite),
cover, you will find an exceptional cast NATHAN
WESTLING
entirely made up of gay women and men, (left) and CARA
DELEVINGNE
trans, nonbinary and queer people from (below) fly the
flag for Pride,
Vogue’s world who are united in a mission on page 112

to shape the future together. Because the

world still needs shaping.
There is a dispiriting irony that in this year of celebration there
is an apparent uptick in transphobia in this country; that reports of
homophobic attacks are on the rise; that many gender-
nonconforming and queer people, who are just trying to get on with
their lives, remain the object of ridicule, minimisation and rancour.
So let me be clear: at Vogue we want to celebrate this community,
to thank them and to listen to them. I can’t wait for you to meet the
12 stars of the issue, on page 112, photographed by Mert Alas and
Marcus Piggott and interviewed by contributing
editor Paris Lees. From fashion and film,
advocacy and art, their individualism shines
even more brilliantly as they join forces together.
MERT ALAS & MARCUS PIGGOTT; CRAIG McDEAN;

Almost a decade
“We went to an underpass after becoming an
in Brooklyn,” says amputee, model
contributing fashion Lauren Wasser
editor Grace Coddington recounts her
of shooting City Transfer, journey back to
on page 128, with
GETTY IMAGES

herself – and the

photographer Craig runway, on page
McDean. “I like to see 60. “I have had to
how the clothes behave create my own
in a real situation.” lane,” she says.

21
 EDWARD ENNINFUL
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF & EUROPEAN EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

GLOBAL NETWORK LEAD & EUROPEAN DEPUTY EDITOR SARAH HARRIS

FASHION DIRECTORS JULIA SARR-JAMOIS, POPPY KAIN
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GLOBAL NETWORK LEAD & EUROPEAN FEATURES DIRECTOR GILES HATTERSLEY
OPERATIONS MANAGER TIMOTHY HARRISON
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DEPUTY DIRECTOR, GLOBAL FASHION NETWORK LAURA INGHAM
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FASHION & ACCESSORIES EDITOR DONNA WALLACE
FASHION CREDITS EDITOR HELEN HIBBIRD
ASSOCIATE FASHION EDITOR ENIOLA DARE
FASHION ASSISTANTS THALIA METALLINOU, HONEY SWEET ELIAS,
JACK O'NEILL, LOIS ADEOSHUN, JULIA STORM
CONTRIBUTING FASHION EDITORS JACK BORKETT, JULIA BRENARD, BENJAMIN BRUNO, GRACE CODDINGTON,
JANE HOW, JOE Mc KENNA, CLARE RICHARDSON, SARAH RICHARDSON, MARIE-AMELIE SAUVE
CONTRIBUTING WEST COAST EDITOR LAW ROACH
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GLOBAL DIRECTOR, TALENT & CASTING ROSIE VOGEL-EADES

GLOBAL ENTERTAINMENT DIRECTOR, THE TALENT GROUP DEBORAH ABABIO
TALENT CASTING MANAGER JANAY BAILEY
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COMMERCE DIRECTOR NAOMI SMART

FASHION FEATURES EDITOR LAURA HAWKINS
SHOPPING EDITOR JESSICA GERARDI
FASHION CRITIC ANDERS CHRISTIAN MADSEN
SENIOR COMMERCE WRITER JOY MONTGOMERY
COMMERCE WRITER HENRIK LISCHKE

GLOBAL NETWORK LEAD & EUROPEAN BEAUTY & WELLNESS DIRECTOR JESSICA DINER
SENIOR BEAUTY & WELLNESS EDITOR LAUREN MURDOCH-SMITH
ACTING BEAUTY & WELLNESS EDITOR HANNAH COATES
DIGITAL BEAUTY & WELLNESS EDITOR TISH WEINSTOCK
BEAUTY & WELLNESS ASSOCIATE TWIGGY JALLOH
BEAUTY EDITOR-AT-LARGE PAT Mc GRATH
CONTRIBUTING BEAUTY EDITORS KATHLEEN BAIRD-MURRAY, FUNMI FETTO, VAL GARLAND,
SAM Mc KNIGHT, GUIDO PALAU, EUGENE SOULEIMAN, CHARLOTTE TILBURY

DEPUTY FEATURES DIRECTOR OLIVIA MARKS

ASSOCIATE FEATURES WRITER AMEL MUKHTAR
FEATURES INTERN RANYECHI UDEMEZUE
ENTERTAINMENT DIRECTOR-AT-LARGE JILL DEMLING

EUROPEAN DESIGN DIRECTOR JAN-NICO MEYER

ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR EILIDH WILLIAMSON
DESIGNER MONTSE TANÚS
SENIOR VISUALS EDITOR JAMIE SPENCE
ASSOCIATE VISUALS EDITOR ISABELLA BRUNNER

EUROPEAN PRODUCTION DIRECTOR VICTORIA WILLAN

ART PRODUCTION MANAGER ISABELLA BRODEN
COPY DIRECTOR HOLLY BRUCE
COPY MANAGER AUGUST STEVENS

VOGUE DIGITAL
DIGITAL DIRECTOR KERRY Mc DERMOTT
EXECUTIVE FASHION NEWS & FEATURES EDITOR ALICE NEWBOLD
WEEKEND & PLANNING EDITOR HAYLEY MAITLAND
AUDIENCE GROWTH MANAGER ALYSON LOWE
SENIOR SUSTAINABILITY & FEATURES EDITOR EMILY CHAN
FILM & CULTURE EDITOR RADHIKA SETH
DIGITAL FASHION WRITER ALICE CARY
JUNIOR FASHION EDITOR ALEX KESSLER
JUNIOR FASHION FEATURES WRITER ENI SUBAIR
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DIRECTOR, DIGITAL VIDEO PROGRAMMING, DEVELOPMENT & CREATIVE PRODUCTION MINNIE J CARVER
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CONTRIBUTING EDITORS
ADWOA ABOAH, RIZ AHMED, LAURA BAILEY, SUSAN BENDER WHITFIELD, SINEAD BURKE, LAURA BURLINGTON,
VASSI CHAMBERLAIN, ALEXA CHUNG, MICHAELA COEL, RONNIE COOKE NEWHOUSE, JOURDAN DUNN, ALEXANDER GILKES,
AFUA HIRSCH, ELGAR JOHNSON, PARIS LEES, GIANLUCA LONGO, PATRICK MACKIE, STEVE M c QUEEN, JIMMY MOFFAT,
KATE MOSS, SARAH MOWER, ROBIN MUIR, DURO OLOWU, LORRAINE PASCALE, ELLIE PITHERS, HARRIET QUICK,
ELIZABETH SALTZMAN, NONA SUMMERS, LEE SWILLINGHAM, EMMA WEYMOUTH, CAROL WOOLTON, HIKARI YOKOYAMA

EDITORIAL BUSINESS MANAGER JESSICA BORGES

ACTING EDITORIAL BUSINESS MANAGER LOUISA Mc GOVERN

SYNDICATION ENQUIRIES EMAIL SYNDICATION@CONDENAST.CO.UK

 VANESSA KINGORI
CHIEF BUSINESS OFFICER, CONDE NAST BRITAIN
& VOGUE EUROPEAN BUSINESS ADVISOR

EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT TO CHIEF BUSINESS OFFICER EMMA COX

VP VOGUE BRAND REVENUE MICHIEL STEUR

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ASSOCIATE COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR, FASHION ALEXIS WILLIAMS

SENIOR ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, FASHION ROYA FARROKHIAN
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ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, FASHION & JEWELLERY EMILY GOODWIN
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COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR, BEAUTY MADELEINE CHURCHILL
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 Out of
OFFICE
Tailoring’s NEW LOOK
is way too cool to keep
to the COMMUTE as suits
work OVERTIME this season.
Photographs by MATT HEALY

Jacket, £945. Shirt,

£220. Tie, £130.
Trousers, £405. All
SPORTMAX. Ring,
£319, TOM WOOD

26

Jacket, £2,080.
Scarf, £925.
Camisole top, £415.
Skirt, £1,660. Boots,
£980. All JIL
SANDER BY
LUCIE & LUKE
MEIER. Pendant
necklace, £329,
TOM WOOD
HAIR: CLAIRE GRECH. MAKE-UP: JOEY CHOY. NAILS: CHARLY AVENELL. SET DESIGN: JOSH STOVELL.
E
legance is elimination,” once said Cristóbal Balenciaga.
The couturier’s sentiment rings true for autumn, as
designers go back to basics and focus on classic garments
DIGITAL ARTWORK: OUTPUT LONDON. MODEL: ACHENRIN MADIT
that speak volumes about their wearer. At the heart of
this streamlined mood is the suit.
Here’s the 101 on the new corporate chic. Colour – the
searingly bright Stabilo-highlighter kind – is your friend.
The Pantone of the season belongs to Pierpaolo Piccioli,
whose shocking Valentino Pink PP co-ords cast a happy-
making spell over the industry. Equally charming are
Michael Kors’s sunflower-yellow separates, Alexander
McQueen’s lime looks and Gabriela Hearst’s peach dream.
Your fashionable five-a-day also comes via fruit bowl
shades splashed across dopamine-inducing prints that
radiate an endless summer vibe. Kenneth Ize’s artisanal
pieces are more craftcore than cartoon, while Del Core’s
colour combinations will inspire everyone to take a
sabbatical from serious styling.
TRENDS
Tailoring special
Styled & edited by
Jessica Gerardi
BOTTEGA VENETA
PETER DO
LOUIS VUITTON
KHAITE
Sports luxe is high on the agenda thanks to Gucci’s
team-up with Adidas, which had hypebeasts salivating
over the Trefoil-meets-GG logo. The coolest girls will
also play for Louis Vuitton’s team, who see Amelia Earhart
and Katherine Hepburn as tailoring pin-ups (the latter
once shared that she stuck to her signature uniform to
save her “the trouble of deciding which clothes to wear”).
Nicolas Ghesquière’s nostalgic pairings sing of afternoons
spent rifling through vintage stores in search of that perfect
jacket (browsing the menswear department is a great idea),
while Sportmax’s block-coloured suit and tie presents a
bold way to achieve a business-meets-pleasure aesthetic.
Sizing up is mandatory. When in doubt, emulate the
attitude that Balenciaga’s genderless drop-shoulder
silhouette provides. And if bookish is more your thing,
Miu Miu’s smart looks are still scoring straight As. The
beauty of this season’s tailoring is that it suits everyone.
ALICE NEWBOLD
27
 “Exquisite tailoring
in a SPECTRUM of
Skittles shades?
How DELICIOUS”
LAURA HAWKINS,
FASHION FEATURES EDITOR

Jacket, £1,130. Trousers,

£730. Both MICHAEL
KORS COLLECTION.
Shirt, £166, THE
FRANKIE SHOP

28
 TRENDS
Tailoring special
Left and below:
jacket, £805.
Trousers, £480. Both
ANOTHER
TOMORROW.
Far right: shirt,
£235, WOERA

HOT
property

EDWARD CRUTCHLEY
BRIGHTS bring a sense of
optimism to officewear, Right: jacket, £1,790.
so make the boardroom a Trousers, £675. Both
BALENCIAGA, at
NEUTRAL-FREE zone Matchesfashion.com

Jacket, £2,150.
Trousers, £670.
Both ALEXANDER
McQUEEN

GABRIELA HEARST

VALENTINO
MATT HEALY; PIXELATE.BIZ

Left: trousers, £1,020,

OSCAR DE LA
RENTA, at
Net-a-Porter.com

29
TRENDS
Tailoring special Clockwise from left: earrings,
£288, OSCAR DE LA
RENTA. Sandals, £740, THE
ROW. Both at Mytheresa.com.
Blouse, £1,400, VALENTINO.
Belt, £470, SALVATORE
FERRAGAMO

Below, from top: trousers,

£680, JIL SANDER
BY LUCIE &
LUKE MEIER, at
Matchesfashion.com.
Bag, £1,950, PRADA

From top: jacket, £1,950,

ANEST COLLECTIVE.
Camisole, £495, RAEY, at
Matchesfashion.com. Minidress,
£2,595, BALMAIN, at Harrods

Clock
OFF
Your new
EVENING-PROOF
MATT HEALY; PIXELATE.BIZ

uniform features suit

jackets and lingerie
details a CUT
ABOVE the rest
30
This page: jacket, £2,220.
Dress, £3,315. Earrings,
£275. All SAINT
LAURENT
BY ANTHONY
VACCARELLO. Boots,
£1,020, KHAITE

Opposite: jacket, £2,200,

GIORGIO ARMANI.
Vintage Saint Laurent
earrings, from a selection,
VESTIAIRE
COLLECTIVE.
Ring, £265,
HATTON LABS

31
TRENDS
Tailoring special

ARTIST’S
impression
MINIMALISTS need
not apply for the
LOUDEST explorations
of city-slicker MODE

ALEXANDER McQUEEN
BOTTER

Above: jacket, £1,160.

Right: trousers, £380.
Both DRIES VAN
NOTEN. Far right,
from top: shirt, £408,
KENNETH IZE

MATT HEALY

PAUL SMITH. Jacket,

DEL CORE

£795, LABRUM
LONDON. Jacket,
£790, AHLUWALIA

32
Jacket, £1,450. Trousers,
£995. Both STELLA
McCARTNEY. T-shirt,
£53, THE FRANKIE
SHOP. Hi-tops, from
a selection, NIKE &
AMBUSH, at
Presentedby.com

33
 Jacket, £2,090. Trousers,
£1,090. Baseball cap,
£520. All GUCCI.
Swimsuit, £240,
JADE SWIM, at
Net-a-Porter.com

34
 TRENDS
Right: baseball Tailoring special
cap, £134, HELEN
KAMINSKI. Shirt, £515,
RALPH LAUREN
COLLECTION

Jacket, £2,620. Blouse,

£1,550. Trackpants,
£1,750. All LOUIS
VUITTON. Boots,
£590, WANDLER,
at Harvey Nichols

WEAR with

Left: trackpants, £100,

RAEY, at Matches
fashion.com. Above: bag,
£820, JIL SANDER
BY LUCIE & LUKE
MEIER. Below: shoes,
£810, LOUIS VUITTON

Clockwise from left: jacket,

£515, MAX MARA STUDIO.
Trackpants, £180, ADIDAS &
WALES BONNER, at
Browns. Sandals, £245,
RUSSELL & BROMLEY

Team WEAR with

SPIRIT
SPORTS CHIC Far left, from top:
MATT HEALY; PIXELATE.BIZ

has OUTRUN executive earrings, £475,

MEJURI. Top,
realness as a way £220, CONNER
IVES, at
to SCORE extra points Harvey Nichols

with your TAILORING

35
 Novel
IDEAS
It’s all about ASSET
MANAGEMENT, as
LIBRARIAN chic
enjoys renewed cachet

Cardigan, £980. Cropped

shirt, £690. Both MIU
MIU. Skirt, £1,010,
ERMANNO
SCERVINO.
Socks, £15, FALKE.
Shoes, £580, KENZO

36
 TRENDS
Tailoring special

“Tailoring with a PEP OF PREP

scores AN A+ in any room, not
just the LIBRARY”
LAURA INGHAM, DEPUTY DIRECTOR,
GLOBAL FASHION NETWORK

Jacket, £2,700.
Tank top, £720.
Top with neck-tie,
£740. Miniskirt,
£1,120. Belt,
£410. All
Above from left: jacket, MIU MIU
£2,400. Skirt, £1,400. Both
BURBERRY. Bracelet, £70,
PANDORA. Shoes, £695,
PROENZA SCHOULER,
at Net-a-Porter.com

CHANEL
Below, from top: tie, £120,
KENZO. Skirt, £595,
MARGARET HOWELL.
Below centre: tank top,
£390, SS DALEY

Above: tank top,

£650, LOEWE.
Below: bag,
£500, BY FAR
COPERNI
MATT HEALY; PIXELATE.BIZ

37
 Family TIES
For SINK THE PINK, chosen family matters.
Now, in collaboration with JIMMY CHOO and
British Vogue, a collection of the LGBTQ+
collective’s members and MUSES reflect on their
lasting legacy and why GLAMOUR is for
everyone. By ERIN PATERSON

In the LGBTQ+ community, fantasy is key. From the first rumblings

of understanding ourselves as different, creativity and imagination
offer a vital escape from a world where we don’t necessarily “fit in”.
Society doesn’t always offer us an alternative though, and so it so
Top: Sink
The Pink’s often comes down to us to write our own fairy tales, our own fantasy
members and and, consequently, our own definitions of beauty and success.
muses. Above, Glyn Fussell, co-founder of Sink The Pink – the London-based
clockwise from
top left: Juni club night and collective that recently celebrated its final performance
Da Moment; – describes the group as “social misfits and broken biscuits” and “one
Lavinia Co-op giant detention class of oddballs and rejects”, an idea that he expounds
Le Fil; Glynn
Fussell.
upon in his book, Sink The Pink’s Manifesto for Misfits. It’s a delightful
Right: Asstina concept that encapsulates the impact that Sink The Pink has had
Mandella on the capital’s LGBTQ+ community and beyond. What Sink The
Pink provided was an alternative approach to fitting in. Instead of
searching endlessly for people like yourself, they said no, bring your
differences, tell your stories – “tell you,” as Asttina Mandella puts it.
They demonstrated that exclusion from society could be a binding
force, a familial tie – and more than enough to unite people. There’s
power to be found on the outskirts of society.
 VOGUE ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE

Daisy
Edgar-Jones

“When you find your family, you can do bigger things together,” Clockwise from
says Le Fil and that’s undeniably proven by the success of Sink The above: Grace Shush,
Juni Da Moment and
Pink. They’ve travelled the world spreading their message of beauty Lavinia Co-op
in unity, and collaborated with some of the biggest names, now celebrate Sink The
including Jimmy Choo, whose glamorous design and inclusive sizing Pink in collaboration
perfectly reflects their manifesto. In the resulting collaborative film, with Jimmy Choo
and British Vogue
and on these pages, the STP family wears handbags, accessories and
shoes from the Jimmy Choo collection, a testament to Choo’s
conscious commitment to expanding not only sizing, but styling to
share its unique vision of inclusive beauty with everyone.
Sink The Pink made an indelible mark on mainstream culture,
while remaining true to their core concept and origins. The idea of
a chosen family is incredibly important in our community as a means
of survival, but as Le Fil said, coming together offers the chance to
grow. To build on your confidence and build that sense of power
DIRECTOR: EMILY McDONALD. DOP: AILSA AIKOA. STYLING: JUSTIN HAMILTON, HONEY SWEET ELIAS.

innate to us, the power to walk into any space and belong.
As Lavinia Co-op says, “Sometimes it’s really great to create an
illusion, get people outside of themselves, be excited, be stimulated!”
This is one of the most important gifts that Sink The Pink imparts:
the permission for all of us to set our own definitions of glamour,
HAIR: JADAH DALE. MAKE-UP: HELENA KASTENSSON. SET DESIGN: DALE SLATER

to learn what it is that excites us, what beauty means

to us. Asttina describes her first time at Sink The
Pink as “a galactic feeling of ‘I didn’t realise I needed
“When you find your
this’.” While every member of the collective looks FAMILY, you can DO
distinct, what links them is their commitment to bigger THINGS together,”
their own personal idea of style and their fierce belief
that everyone deserves this freedom. says LE FIL
More than a club night, more than an LGBTQ+
collective, Sink The Pink is open-source joy. It’s free-standing, eternal
permission to be ourselves, which will last long after the doors close,
and whose impact will reverberate for generations to come. Rather
than presenting itself as the family to find, it gives us the power to
think of alternatives, to found our own families. Sink The Pink
doesn’t present itself as a goal, but as a way of life. Through their
example, the world is gifted with the power to self-define, to create
our own illusions and realities. Glamour and beauty is innate in us
Right: Sink The
all – all we need is the confidence to show it off. Pink co-founder
Watch the full film now, at Youtube.com/britishvogue Glynn Fussell
FORCES for CHANGE
SPONSORED EDITORIAL

“DANCE was the first

place I got to TRULY
be MYSELF”
SOPHIE REBECCA

The power
OF DANCE
NIKE and VOGUE spotlight
four pioneering PERFORMERS

DANCE IS UNIQUE in combining not only

intense athleticism but also freedom and self-
expression, using the body itself to communicate
who you are. Nike and British Vogue have come
together to create a film celebrating four dancers
who are changing the landscape, from female trans
ballet dancer Sophie Rebecca to Trina Nicole, the
founder of the UK’s first plus-size dance class,
celebrating each athlete’s dynamism, dedication and
discipline. From different cities, countries and
communities, these four change-makers come
together through their desire to bring their most
authentic selves to the studio floor.
Discover Nike’s dance collection online at Nike.com and
watch the film on the British Vogue YouTube channel
 JEWELLERY

2.

1.

5.

4.

3.

SCOPE
LD
EIDO
O
AL
EH
aK
N
B
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HA
wit
7.
6.
TO

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RR
im

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dt
GA

O
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oo
EL

CH
C A
B RA s R
EM ay
s, s
8.

el
L j ew
U
of PLAYF
9. 10.

1.Tricolour gold, diamond, ruby, emerald, sapphire and garnet convertible

pendant necklace, £23,700, LOUIS VUITTON. 2. White-gold and
yellow- and white-diamond pendant necklace, MESSIKA. 3. Gold, garnet,
black-diamond and orange-sapphire ring, from £2,760, KOMI. 4. Bicolour
gold, diamond, pearl, emerald and lacquer necklace, DIOR JOAILLERIE.
5. Gold, emerald, multicoloured-sapphire and tsavorite earrings, £29,950,
ROBINSON PELHAM. 6. Gold, silver, crystal and enamel ring, £685,
BEA BONGIASCA. 7. Gold and diamond necklace, from £21,290,
DARIUS. 8. Gold, coral and multicoloured-sapphire pendant, from £5,245,
BRENT NEALE, at Twistonline.com. 9. Gold-vermeil and crystal earring,
£200, ALAN CROCETTI. 10. White-gold, silver and diamond ring,
£7,265, EERA, at Net-a-Porter.com. Prices on request unless otherwise stated.
For stockists, see Vogue Information

41
WATCHES

2.

4.

1.

1. Gold and diamond, OMEGA. 2. Gold,

3. CARTIER. 3. Gold, steel and diamond,
TUDOR. 4. Gold, diamond, rubellite and
opaline, BULGARI. 5. Rose gold, ZENITH.
6. Gold, amethyst, silver and mother-of-pearl,
CHOPARD. 7. Gold, HUBLOT. 8. Gold,
VACHERON CONSTANTIN. Prices on
5. request. For stockists, see Vogue Information

6.

8.

7.

That ’70s
GLOW
Channel BYGONE glamour
with a gleaming GOLD watch,
says RACHEL GARRAHAN
42
 FORCES for CHANGE
VOGUE ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE

RACING
AHEAD
One of Vogue and BMW’s
leading Forces for Change,
racing driver CHARLIE
MARTIN has put a
spotlight on DIVERSITY
in motor sport by simply
going her own WAY.
Photograph by
CHARLOTTE HADDEN

S
ince Vogue first spoke to racing driver
Charlie Martin for the August 2021 Pride
issue, her journey has continued at an even
greater pace, now less hindered by the
effects of the pandemic. “You either give
up or you get stronger,” she told us then,
and reaching her ultimate goal of becoming
the first trans person to compete in the
legendary 24 Hours of Le Mans endurance
race now seems ever closer. For this year’s
Pride issue, with the help of BMW, we
expanded on our original conversation to For Martin, the power of visibility, of feel comfortable giving a response on behalf
further explore Martin’s personal and acting as a type of emblem for achievements of the whole community.”
STYLIST: JULIA BRENARD. MAKE-UP: JOSE BASS. HAIR: JOSH KNIGHT

professional path.
Being or coming “out” is a major focus
of discussion during Pride month and is as
nuanced in meaning as the vast range of
individuals and groups that engage with it.
For Martin, it’s “being able to be your true
authentic self, in a way that you can speak
up about something, [to] be honest about
what your values and beliefs are without
having to censor yourself in a particular
situation”. Herein lies just one of her many
strengths: a willingness to be not just visible,
but often a voice for the trans community,
an expectation she rightly feels should not
be placed on everyone.
that can be made by trans people, is one she
uses to drive her forward. “I feel very lucky
to have a platform whereby I can use that
to try and educate people and create more
empathy, and I’m proud whenever I’m given
an opportunity to represent my community,”
she says. Of all the huge positives to be
taken from the conversation Martin has
encouraged around the trans experience, the
hazardous nature of asking individuals to
become symbolic of a whole minority is a
constant consideration. “My lived experience
is my lived experience,” she asserts. “I do try
and take things back to that, especially if
someone asks a question [when] I just don’t
As her list of achievements grows –
from appearing on the 2021 Vogue 25 list
highlighting some of Britain’s most
influential women to podium placements
at endurance races around the world –
Martin maintains that the often difficult
process of asserting her identity has been
all for the better. “I basically did something
I told myself was impossible,” she says, “and
that has had an absolutely game-changing
effect on my aspirations, my approach to
life, what I think is achievable and has had
a purely positive effect on my performance
as a driver… It’s been the key to unlocking
my human potential.”

43
VOGUE ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE

PRIDE
H
IT
W
WEAR

PANDORA’s
Brilliance
collection is for
all year round, but
the SUMMER
SEASON is when
DIAMONDS shine at their
best. From EARRINGS and necklaces to bracelets
and rings, it’s the ultimate INVESTMENT

DIAMONDS AND SUNSHINE GO hand in hand. Nothing
brings out the dazzling quality of the stone quite like natural
light, which can make even the smallest gem shine bright.
Pandora’s Brilliance collection promises permanent sparkle at a
reasonable price – starting at £250 – featuring lab-grown diamonds
set into timeless jewellery designs. All the jewellery in the
collection features the same minimalist design: a swirling teardrop
twist that represents “transformation”.
Brilliance is Pandora’s first-ever carbon-neutral range. The
brand is on a mission to create jewellery that makes a personal
statement with minimal environmental impact, offering pieces
with value beyond the price tag. Customers can invest with the
knowledge that pieces have been made with the utmost care and
craftsmanship, using lab-grown diamonds that possess the same
qualities as those that are naturally sourced. The Brilliance
collection is particularly attractive to younger customers, given
the accessible price points. The brand sees the venture as a method
to “democratise real diamonds”. Earrings, rings, necklaces and
bracelets can be purchased separately, or in sets, and there are a
variety of carats available, going up to one carat. Jewellery in the
lower bracket is made from sterling silver and 0.15-carat lab-
grown diamonds and the higher bracket is 0.5 to one-carat stones
set into 14-carat yellow gold.
The stars of the campaign, Ashley Graham and Rosario
Dawson, consider their own values to be aligned with the Pandora
Brilliance collection. Ashley told British Vogue: “There are pieces
that you want within your jewellery box, which have endless
possibilities of where you’re headed.”
Discover the transformative beauty of Pandora’s Brilliance collection
in selected stores and online at Pandora.net
 SUSTAINABILITY

Circular LOGIC There’s also buy-back and resale. With Patagonia’s

Worn Wear initiative, for example, you can exchange
Why extending the LIFE of our possessions has old gear for store credit, then the company reconditions
and resells it. Luxury fashion traditionally has left resale
never made more SENSE. By DANA THOMAS to third-party retailers such as Sellier, a three-year-old

T
vendor in London and in Monaco, because “brands often
he other day, I came upon three vintage school chairs found selling pre-loved items was undermining their
on a Paris sidewalk. As I sized them up, the city rubbish primary market”, co-founder Hanushka Toni says.
collectors arrived in their kelly-green truck and yelled: But that view is changing. Buying pre-loved, Toni
“Take them! Give them another life!” says, even among “high-net-worth women, is seen as
This is a snapshot of what circularity is all about: more accepted”. (Reinforced, no doubt, by red carpets
extending the use of an item, rather than sending it to such as the Met Gala, where brands including Louis
landfill. Adopting such habits is increasingly crucial. In Vuitton dressed guests in archival pieces. The idea was
April, the UN’s Intergovernmental Panel on Climate “in keeping with [its] commitment toward circular
Change (IPCC) stated that, without substantial and swift creativity” and to extend the longevity and appreciation
change in consumer behaviour, the Earth will become of Vuitton creations.) “The more that brands dig into
uninhabitable. “It’s now or never,” said Jim Skea, co-chair their vaults, the more they elevate the second-hand
of IPCC Working Group III, which published the report. market,” says Rachel Reavley, advisory board director
“We need to make changes to the way we think about for Hardly Ever Worn It, an online marketplace for
the production, use and the disposal of clothing and textiles pre-owned fashion. “Second-hand is not second class. ”
if we are going to get anywhere near to meeting the United To that end, Oscar de la Renta has launched Encore
Nation’s climate change goals set for the industry,” HRH to offer vintage runway designs. There is also Gucci Vault,
The Prince of Wales, a pro-environment champion for an online curation of refreshed archive pieces. Meanwhile,
half a century, says in Why Wool Matters, a short film on Alexander McQueen has partnered with Vestiaire
YouTube by The Campaign for Wool, of which he is a Collective for Brand Approved, which buys and sells
patron. “A major part of that change has to be moving authenticated pieces to the public. With resale expected
from a linear system to a circular one.”That is why, in June, to exceed $30 billion by 2025, we’ll no doubt see more
Prime Minister Boris Johnson pledged £80 million to the arrangements like these, which will ensure that luxury
British Fashion Council and other associations, to create fashion has a second, third and fourth life – or more.
the Fashion Industry Sustainable Change Programme, a Just like my new old chairs.
top-flight circular fashion and textiles ecosystem.
Ever since the Industrial
Revolution, we consume items
linearly: make-use-waste. Now,
in the UK, an estimated 13
million items go to landfill each
week. We need to slow this down
significantly and can do so by
keeping things in circulation. As
the London clothing alteration
and repair service Sojo says,
“Wearing an item five times
produces 400 per cent more
carbon than wearing it 50 times.”
How can something be
worn 50 times? You can rent,
repair or refashion existing pieces.
Start-up WearMyWardrobeOut
does all three at affordable rates.
One of its founder Maria Loria’s
specialities is remaking clothes
into new looks for festivals,
as an alternative to “the £2.6
billion of new summer one-
time-wear outfits predicted
for this year”, she says.

“Wearing an item FIVE TIMES

CRAIG McDEAN

produces 400 per cent more

CARBON than wearing it 50”
47
FORCES for CHANGE FORCES for CHANGE

Official partners
 ARTS & CULTURE

WHAT TO WEAR…
Tight and bright is a good place to start,
but nothing too precious or delicate. Drinks
will be spilled, feet stepped on and
trainers are essential for the amount of
walking and dancing to be done. A

WAY OUT WEST

two-piece by Ahluwalia, who has been
attending the street festival since she was
two, paired with retro-leaning Adidas &
Wales Bonner CB Country trainers by the
As NOTTING HILL CARNIVAL returns to fellow South Londoner are a great place to
London, VOGUE reveals how best to celebrate start. London brand AGR got off the
ground when founder Alicia Robinson
outfitted her friends for the annual event, so
complete your look with her brand’s bold
WHAT TO LISTEN TO… crocheted bucket hat. After all, you’ll need
something to throw on against the
The Deviation sound system always delivers a solid temperature drop of the cool night air
line-up of DJs and surprise personal appearances. when you’re tracking down that Uber.
For a change of pace, Aba Shanti-I has been a
resident sound system since the early ’90s and
this is where you’ll hear the roots and reggae
sounds that are the beating heart of carnival.
Head to the legendary Disya Jeneration, which
has kept party spirits high since 1985, or to
Rampage for dancehall, drum’n’bass and rap.
Don’t miss Panorama – the steel band competition
that takes place the night before carnival – it’s
the most vibrant warm-up for the days to come.

WHAT TO EAT…
OCHI ROTI JOUPA SAM SANDWICHES
Many a star, including Head to the Goldhawk One of the city’s best lunch
Rihanna, has dined at Road outpost of the famous spots is in Shepherd’s Bush
this seemingly low-key Trini takeaway. The rotis Market, where Samir
Jamaican takeaway are great, but if you’re Ladoul makes Clockwise from top left: hat, £345, AGR,
GETTY IMAGES

in W12. Go for the on-the-go, opt for doubles architectonically sound at Browns. Top, £460, AHLUWALIA.
red pea soup. and mac and cheese with Algerian sandwiches. Trainers, £140, ADIDAS & WALES
BONNER, at Matchesfashion.com
Ochitakeaway sweet tamarind sauce. @sam_sandwiches1
andcatering.co.uk Rotijoupaonline.com JONATHAN NUNN

49
MODERNISM
in MOTION
Range Rover combines
aesthetic GRACE with matchless
TECHNOLOGY and
CAPABILITY to redefine luxury
for the MODERN consumer

A
car is more than just a means of getting from A to B.
Instead, for many of us, it’s an integral part of daily life:
powerful technology in which we place our trust and a
space in which we seek sanctuary. And that is what makes
the new Range Rover such a compelling proposition.
Created with a focus on refinement, breathtaking
modernity and exceptional performance
capability, the new Range Rover draws
upon more than 50 years of heritage and Above, from left:
British Vogue’s senior
evolution to present a truly unmatched beauty & wellness
travel opportunity. Remaining true to its editor Lauren
roots as the original luxury SUV, the Range Murdoch-Smith and
Rover’s new iteration allows you to go contributing editor
Emma Weymouth
anywhere, offering the smoothest and most
comfortable ride available for both driver
and passengers, alongside intuitive
technology, sophisticated design and a firm
commitment to sustainability in both
materials and electrification. Still designed,
engineered and built in the UK, the new
Range Rover comes in both mild-hybrid
and plug-in hybrid options, while a battery-
electric car will join the family in 2024.
This spring, British Vogue contributing
editor Emma Weymouth and senior
beauty & wellness editor Lauren Murdoch-
Smith visited Range Rover HQ in Gaydon,
Warwickshire, for a unique insight into
the process behind creating this trailblazing
new addition to the luxury landscape.
What was immediately clear was the
influence of modernism on the brand
aesthetic. Chief creative officer Gerry
McGovern has been tireless in his advocacy
of less is more, resulting in a design
philosophy that promotes a reductive
 VOGUE ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE

Designed with your WELLBEING in

mind, the new RANGE ROVER has
been CREATED to make travel a truly
luxurious and enjoyable EXPERIENCE
aesthetic combined with harmonious proportions, which is clearly
differentiated from other luxury SUVs while still maintaining Range
Rover’s storied and unique DNA.
“When you take Range Rover as a brand, it absolutely sits in
the luxury space,” Alexey Andreev, exterior designer, told Weymouth A wide range
and Murdoch-Smith, explaining how the design was painstakingly of materials
and finishes
realised via sketches, clay models and computer-aided design. “There’s are available,
one word without which luxury cannot many of which
exist and that is desirability. When you are now
sustainable
look at something, do you have that
inner visceral feeling of ‘I want that’?
As designers we never forget that.”
Inside the vehicle, customers have which significantly reduces bacteria,
a wider choice of materials and finishes odours and allergens, and digital
than ever before – and with a renewed innovations including integrated
focus on sustainability. Choices include Amazon Alexa and the next-gen audio
responsibly produced leathers and system, with options including Active
sustainable wool-blend fabrics created From left: Emma Weymouth, Noise Cancellation in the headrest
by Kvadrat. Personalisation is king, Lauren Murdoch-Smith, Bethan speakers. Designed with your wellbeing
something Murdoch-Smith likens to Jones and Alexey Andreev in mind, the new Range Rover has
the fashion and beauty industries’ been created to make travel a truly
current love affair with tailor-made products. “Range Rover has always luxurious and enjoyable experience, allowing you to arrive at your
had that element of personalisation that our customers love and for destination refreshed and satisfied. All of that alongside truly
the new car we’ve been able to offer material choices that mean our unmatched engineering prowess and capability, building on a
customers can emotionally connect with what they want and choose,” reputation that has lasted more than half a century to create a fully
confirms colour and materials manager Bethan Jones. realised vision of the future.
But it’s not just about looks, as this new automotive innovation Discover the new Range Rover at Landrover.co.uk and see Vogue’s visit
is all about clever optimisations. There’s the air purification system, to Range Rover HQ at Vogue.co.uk
UNCOMMON threads
Returning to BRITAIN post-divorce, writer EMMA FORREST
began to unpack the ROMANTIC history of her wardrobe – and
all that she LOVED, lost and learnt ALONG THE WAY

W
hen you work on a memoir – or even when you write in a diary
– you are taming difficult memories by sealing them between pages
and then putting them literally on the shelf. As I began my post-
divorce story Busy Being Free, I was simultaneously unpacking the
wardrobe I’d shipped over from my 20 years in America, having
moved back to my home town of London, the city that first
“shamed” me. We leave where we grew up for a reason. California,
with its wide expanse of sky, had set me free. And yet, needing to
be near my family, here I was. Many of the items I pulled from
the cardboard boxes were quotidian. But there were a few that – as
I held their fabric in fingers that would soon enough lose their
LA tan – made me blush, laugh or cry.
THE MARILYN MONROE DRESS
A pale blue cotton wiggle dress with white Swiss-dot embroidery.
I was looking for a dress to replicate one I’d seen in a photograph
of a sleeping Marilyn Monroe by Eve Arnold. From a decade when
there were separate departments for “day” dresses and “evening”
dresses, this is not an item of clothing you’re meant to actually find
– it should be a quest, a riddle that can’t be solved, your Rosebud.
But in 1994, New York brand Tocca included something spookily
similar in its first clothing collection – and proceeded to bring one
out each season. I can still see the arched brow of the saleswoman
(at my youth and my carefully counted bills). I wonder if finding
that dress was a Sliding Doors wormhole to a thrilling but perilous
love life. That I paid cash seems to have exacerbated its power.
The dress never fails, even two decades since I bought it. But
it’s like Mickey and the broomsticks in Fantasia. I wore it at 19 and
kept it on as I seduced an older man I was crazy about – a man who
was palpably scared of me until we had sex, then he could tell
I didn’t know what I was doing. I was wearing it at 32, in the first
paparazzi photo with a movie star after we’d eluded their notice for
so many months. Then, 22 years after I bought it, it was stuck to my
post-partum body in the humid summer air of a location shoot.
My then husband’s co-star, who had been barbecuing for the
cast, checked no one else was in the room, then murmured, “Mama.
Try this.” His fingers touched my lips as he fed me. Nothing else
happened between us. But the memory of his fingers on my lips
kept me going for a long time.
THE MARC JACOBS JUMPER
I wore the Marc Jacobs jumper, with the childish hearts
embroidered on it, to the abortion I was having because I felt
MICAELA McLUCAS/TRUNK ARCHIVE
I was too young to have a baby. Something compelled me to
dress in my own defence: I am too young! I loved my boyfriend
madly, but we had recently broken up and he’d gone home to
New Zealand. I was 25 and he had a 45-year-old baby mama
who he was no longer with but could not separate from. I was
the younger woman in that equation.
Well-intentioned friends told him it would pain her too greatly
to have to meet me because of my extreme youth. In fact, it was
the oldest I had ever been. I thought of it when, in my forties,
VIEWPOINT
I met my ex-husband’s 25-year-old girlfriend – I think the second
girlfriend he’d had after our break-up. He was away but said I
could crash at the LA house. She and I smoked weed together
and then she retired to my marital bed, while I went down to the
guest room and slept the sleep of the just. I was relieved not to be
married to him any more. I loved him dearly, but he was hectic
and I was 41 and wanted life beyond Thunderdome.
But at 25, I was addicted to hectic. Now I’ve unpacked and let
go of love addiction, the pop culture I’ve drawn most from has
started to unravel. Roy Orbison should not have driven all night
to get to you. He – it – was dangerous. Molly Ringwald should
never have given her diamond earring to a grown-ass man who
had spent the whole film running up and down the school corridors,
shouting about his childhood damage.
And I should not have fallen into the arms of my ex-boyfriend
when he rang my doorbell unannounced a week after the abortion.
When he went back to New Zealand, I gave him one of my earrings
– worse, they were my baby bangles that Mum had converted into
hoop earrings as an 18th birthday gift.
I was never sorry I had the abortion. I think of my ex very
rarely and when I do, I remember him as controlling and selfish.
I would be shocked if he had any fond memories of me. When I
think about my mother, who is 83, being gone one day, I am
incapacitated with a grief I know is barely even a dress rehearsal.
I am fearful, when she does pass, that I may go on a transcontinental
quest to recover the missing hoop earring.
THE BAND T-SHIRT
In photos, I was very slim and there are only stolen glimpses of
this Bruce Springsteen and the E Street Band T-shirt, which
seems appropriate since the man who gave it to me was someone
I was having an affair with. He lived in a Californian mansion and
I lived in a tiny New York studio where the landlord couldn’t
believe my parents didn’t have enough money to co-sign.
The first time he took me to his bedroom, he opened a drawer
and it was full of vintage rock T-shirts. All these rock T-shirts
could be yours! I had seen this gesture in Douglas Sirk’s Written
on the Wind, in which Lauren Bacall’s would-be paramour shows
her a drawer of glass-beaded purses to choose from.
I did a really shitty thing, which was wearing it to keep the
feeling of him near even when I was with my boyfriend. As I’ve
said, I was very in love with my boyfriend, but he had not or could
not cede control from the mother of his child. On numerous
occasions over a year and a half, I was made to wait in cars because
she would not let me meet her kid. They sensed something toxic
in me. I guess I thought they might not be wrong. I guess I figured
if they considered me toxic, I’d be toxic.
Which led me to this affair. To have the man you love, but
who won’t commit, have his hands on your breasts under the
T-shirt given to you by the man who is pursuing you… It was an
elixir for a 25-year-old testing their emotional volume control.
I took an erotic pleasure in the marital moral code for the
seven years I was with my husband. But now it’s over, I see this
T-shirt and get overwhelmed with a sorrow that at first I couldn’t
place. Eventually, I realised what I was mourning: I may never get
to be dishonest again. The man who gave it to me wasn’t my great
love, but I miss our furtiveness. Our secret language.
THE F**K-YOU OUTFIT
I had barely heard from my husband in almost a year – he’d
almost completely dropped from contact – when he called on
23 December to ask me to be in San Francisco the next day >
53
 VIEWPOINT

with our daughter, where he was working, so we could have

Christmas together. He shouted, then he called back and
pleaded, and the only way I could make myself go was if
I went dressed as Joan Crawford.
This was how I would express my blazing anger at him.
A skin-tight ink-black long-sleeved top with hooks and eyes
from top to bottom. A black pencil skirt. Bettie Page fetish
heels from Prada. Stockings. A corset. I was so uncomfortable.
But I wanted to look and feel like a superstructure,
a piece of architecture – something that would be
standing long, long after he was gone.
If he noticed he didn’t say. Just like when I waited
for him to acknowledge how small our temporary
London flat was, instead he walked in and said, “Wow!
You guys landed on your feet!” He did, however, call
and ask if he could give my number to a friend of his
who had been rhapsodic about my appearance. I politely
declined and he said, “Well, if you change your mind…”

THE RE-WORN DRESS Above: Emma Forrest in her Marilyn

For the Tribeca Film Festival premiere of the movie
I directed, I had on a floor-length, high-neck Jean Muir
turquoise-wool gown. I was deliberately dressed in
something I’d chosen for my ex-husband’s Star Wars
red carpet, with the idea that I’d re-wear things I’d
worn to support him to my own events. It may have
been then that I understood how frequently I treat my
heartbreak as performance art.
In my old dress, it meant a lot to have my old
landlord, Scott Caan, fly to New York to be by my side.
He’d rented me the Laurel Canyon guest house I’d lived in from
30 to 34, when I first moved to Los Angeles. After my great
romantic tragedy of 2010, when he’d heard me sobbing my heart
out late into the night, Scott held me as I told him I wished
I were dead. He told me that if I felt the same way in a year,
he’d personally help me to buy a gun. I didn’t feel remotely the
same way in a year. Many years later, I was alive and Scott came
to do one scene in my debut movie.
I told him my marriage was breaking up and that one of the
things that weirdly hurt most was that even empathetic people
couldn’t help gasp, “But he’s one of the best actors of his generation.”
Scott rolled his eyes, “Yeah, yeah, come back and talk to me
when he’s one of the best paediatric cancer specialists of his
generation.” (Scott appears in my life once every seven years
– like Brigadoon – to tell me what I need to hear.)
This dress itself had the greatest life. It was originally owned by
Gai Pearl Marshall. Gai was Missoni’s publicist for some 40 years
and helped to launch Moschino. Before that, she was a Bluebell
Monroe-inspired dress, in 2005.
Left: at the 2018 Tribeca Film Festival
premiere of her film, Untogether,
wearing vintage Jean Muir
Girl, and before that, she was a Jewish
kid evacuated to Panama during the
Second World War.
This is the great gift of vintage: the
energetic power. I love this dress because of the vibrant turquoise
of the wool and the fact that it’s skin-tight but covers me neck to
foot. But mainly I love it because it was worn by a woman who lived
a big life, not just in her youth, but also in middle and old age.
THE RUFFLED DECEPTION DRESS
This is absolutely as far as you can push a summer day dress: burnt
orange with buttons down the chest and a nipped waist that flares
out into a skirt covered in ruffles. I’d had it tailored to my body
when I lived in New York. Whenever I wore it, I felt powerful,
like Rita Moreno in 1961’s West Side Story.
The most passionate man I’ve ever known made love to me as
I was wearing it. We knew we only had six hours together, so it
didn’t feel like there was time to take it off. We were in a hotel suite
he’d flown nine hours to reach, just so he could see me before he
had to be back at work. I remember how I shook in his arms – literally
shook – when he opened the door and kissed me. Shaking because
I was between worlds: one foot still in the hall, one half of my body
surrendering to him; the other still touched by metro cards, turnstiles,
subway stops, “don’t walk” signs, rent due, itemised electricity bills.
They all went away for six hours and I became whole.
A few years later, the next epic love ripped the dress off me as
quickly as he could – men want different things, in life and in sex.

“I wanted to look and feel like

He didn’t care in the slightest what I had on, whereas for me the
outfits were such a huge part of foreplay, I retrospectively wonder

a SUPERSTRUCTURE, a
if my love affairs were often just a reason to buy clothes.
Picking through and putting in the attic what I no longer wear

piece of architecture, something

felt a lot like writing a memoir: the dresses could be folded, stored
protectively and then kept out of sight. With the knowledge that

that would be STANDING

our weather doesn’t always match the seasons, they remain accessible
GETTY IMAGES

if I ever need to feel them again.

long, long after he was gone”

Busy Being Free: A Lifelong Romantic is Seduced by Solitude by Emma
Forrest (Weidenfeld & Nicolson, £19) is published on 18 August

55
SLUGREM

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56
 MR VOGUE

PLAYING
with FIRE
Actor FABIEN FRANKEL
burns bright. By RADHIKA
SETH. Photograph by
SAM WILSON. Styling by
ELGAR JOHNSON
Fabien Frankel is prone to uncontrollable
fits of laughter. It would happen at school
(“I was really naughty”), during his time at
Lamda (“We had to act like butter in a
pan…”) and on the set of his new show,
HBO’s long-awaited Game of Thrones prequel,
House of the Dragon. “Rhys Ifans is the most
electric person to have around,” he says of
one of his co-stars. “In scenes where you’re
faced with a dragon, he makes you giggle.
I’m like, ‘Please don’t look at me.’”
Set 200 years before Daenerys Targaryen
torched King’s Landing, the 10-part series
charts the history of her family, from their
conquest of the Seven Kingdoms to a bitter
civil war in which dragons fought dragons.
Frankel plays Criston Cole, a dashing knight
who rises to become a kingmaker. “He’s not
what you think he’s going to be,” the 28-year-
old says. “Over the course of the series, he
changes a great deal.”
Having made his cinematic debut
(coincidentally opposite Emilia Clarke, the
Mother of Dragons herself ) in Last Christmas,
Frankel has also starred in Charing Cross
Theatre’s The Knowledge and the BBC’s The
Serpent, in which he played a French
backpacker held captive.
Frankel is half French, raised in London
by a mother who preferred to use the
language at home. “I’m amazed I speak
English, to be honest,” he says, chuckling.
PRODUCTION: DIANA EASTMAN. DIGITAL ARTWORK: SHERIFF

His father, meanwhile, was an actor who died

when Frankel was a baby. “I’m getting to the
age that he was when he came out of drama
school,” he says. “As I’ve started working,
people from his life have magically appeared
and found me. I’ve gotten to know him
through them and that’s been lovely.”
House of the Dragon will air on Sky Atlantic and
Now from 22 August

Cashmere tank top, DIOR. Cotton trousers,

MARGARET HOWELL. Leather shoes,
TRICKER’S. Socks, FALKE. Grooming:
ROXANE ATTARD and ERIN GREEN.
Nails: MICHELLE HUMPHREY

57
THE NEW RANGE ROVER
THE HEIGHT OF REFINEMENT

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refined throughout, its flush elements, clean expansive surfaces, hidden-until-lit
tail lights and precise detailing take Land Rover’s design philosophy to new levels
of emotional engagement. Every detail has been curated, for every moment of
every journey. Once again, Range Rover sets a new standard for modern luxury.
landrover.co.uk

Official Fuel Consumption Figures for the New Range Rover in mpg (I/100km): Combined 23.5-37.2 (12-7.6). CO2
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Emissions 272-198 g/km. The figures provided are as a result of official manufacturer’s tests in accordance with
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 Standing
TALL
At 24, her
WORLD collapsed
overnight. Ten years
later, LAUREN
WASSER is
redefining what
it means to be
a MODEL

L
ike a knight in shining armour: that’s how
I felt closing the Louis Vuitton cruise show
in San Diego this past May. As the sun set
behind the beautiful, brutalist Salk Institute,
casting long shadows on the concrete
runway, I walked out wearing a floor-
sweeping silver coat – my legs as golden
as the early evening light, shimmering
beneath metallic shorts – leading the way
for the army of models behind me.
Everything about the show was
incredible: the clothes, the setting, that
I had been asked to lead the finale, that I
was there at all. It has been almost 10 years
since I was rushed into hospital, just hours
from death, with toxic shock syndrome
(TSS) – a condition caused by an excess of staphylococcus aureus in Italian Vogue. But as I got older, I found a passion for athletics
bacteria in the body, most commonly associated with tampon use too – basketball was my true love. Everything I wanted, I was
– which resulted, in spite of the fact I had been using the product continually told, was at my fingertips.
as directed, in the amputation of both my legs, first my right and, And so when I woke up from a medically induced coma in
eventually, four years ago, my left. At 24, my life was changed that Santa Monica hospital room one day in early October 2012,
utterly and completely overnight. in excruciating pain, it wasn’t just that I was unrecognisable: I had
As the child of two models, Pamela Cook and Robert been stripped of my entire identity, of the beauty and body that,
Wasserburger, growing up in California in the early 1990s, my I thought then, had made me me. I had been found unresponsive
world up until that point had been defined by rare beauty. I was at home, having suffered a fever of almost 42C, my kidneys
surrounded by the faces of the time: Stephanie Seymour, Cindy failing. I had had two heart attacks and was given just a one per
Crawford, Naomi Campbell. In hindsight, I realise how unusual cent chance of survival. When I came round a week-and-a-half
my childhood was, but back then it was all I knew. It wasn’t long later, after being placed on life support, I was pumped full of fluid,
before I started to follow in my parents’ footsteps: I booked my I weighed 200 pounds, my hair was so matted that my head had
first modelling job at just two months old, alongside my mother been shaved, and my legs were black with gangrene. It was only

60
 FORCES for CHANGE

I have always loved GOLD, so I decided

to make my legs a JEWELLERY piece.
The RESULT is something close to ART

when I overheard a nurse saying they would need to amputate

a young woman that I realised she was talking about me.
I left hospital three months later in a wheelchair and back at
home, shell-shocked, tried to come to terms with my new reality.
For eight months, I would wheel myself into my bathroom and
sit on a stool in the shower screaming at God, wondering why
and how this happened. I didn’t think I would be loved again,
I didn’t think I would be wanted – I definitely didn’t think the
fashion world would ever accept me.
For a time, in my darkest moments, I was suicidal. I had to
force myself to dig deep to see that beauty isn’t just found in
the physical, it’s how we affect others and the world. Eventually,
I came to understand that prosthetics were my route to a more
independent life, but seeing the stiff, medical-looking limbs that
were available, I struggled to see how I would make them me. To
move forwards, I knew I had to create something that fit with my
identity. I have always loved gold, so I decided to make my legs a
jewellery piece, to consciously make something that people look at
and are fascinated by. The result is, I believe, something close to art.
Meanwhile, though, I was still in agony: my left foot was
severely damaged and needed weekly

wound care and multiple surgeries. I
was approaching 30, had plans to be a
mother and was desperate to reclaim
my life as an athlete too, but the pain
had me living in a prison, hating every
day. I knew I had no choice but to
undergo a second amputation. It was
extremely difficult, but it was the best
decision for my future and for my
happiness. It meant I took back control.
I have tried to do the same with
my career. Over the past decade since
I contracted TSS, I have witnessed the
industry slowly embrace inclusivity, but
make no mistake: I’ve had to fight for
my place. There was no blueprint for a model like me. Rarely has
someone like myself appeared on the runway. I have had to create
my own lane, my own avenue of existence. Walking the Louis
Vuitton show felt like I had come full circle.
In all of that time, I have remained true to one simple core
belief: that I’m just like anyone else. I can wear anything; I can
do anything. The one difference? My legs are made of gold. It is
a belief that extends to every aspect of my life – as a gay woman,
I think everyone deserves to have someone that fits them, that
makes them feel special and loved. We’re all human beings and we
BEAU GREALY; GETTY IMAGES
LOUIS VUITTON
and greater information about what can
happen if you use tampons and the onus
should be on the corporations to provide
it. Take tampon commercials: you see a
girl running on the beach, but where is the
warning of the potential fatal harm the
product can cause? I always use cigarettes
as an example: you see the box and you
see what can happen, but it’s your choice
whether you smoke or not. It should be the same with feminine
hygiene products. The question is, when will women’s health care
be taken seriously?
I hope that the documentary I have been making about
my experience, which I started in the early days of my recovery,
will make those in power, as well as the public, sit up and
take notice. It’s important for people to see the grim reality of
what I went through. I hope my pain and the trauma will
make them angry for change.
Thankfully, my days are no longer filled with me screaming at

should be accepted for who we are, not shunned for who we love
or what we look like. I do believe that people are opening their
eyes and realising love is love and that people should be treated
with equality. We’re not fully there, but we’re making moves. And
I think that’s the important part.
The fact of the matter is there are no truly safe period
products on the market. There needs to be more transparency
God. I have my mobility back. I have a new set of extremely cool
blades and am currently training for the New York City Marathon.
It’s the little things I take most pleasure from: living in sunny Los
Angeles; walking my three dogs; being in love with my amazing
girlfriend. I can once again feel the wind in my hair. My life is so
beautiful. As crazy as it sounds, I feel like I’ve been like this my
entire life. I feel no different, just really, really lucky and blessed.

61
 LIVING

“Logomania never looked so luxe.

CHANEL’s typographic belt is a cinching
conversation starter. I’ll be pairing it with an
androgynous white shirt.” Belt, £1,830

“GABRIELA HEARST brings her artisanal

flourish to this cashmere blanket. Its vivid
pattern will ensure I’m still dreaming of
summer as the weather cools.” Blanket, £5,190

LIFE &
STYLE
Dream buys, selected by
JULIA SARR-JAMOIS

“A dewy SPF with skincare

benefits, this Super Serum Skin
“The Jungle scented candle Tint [£46] from ILIA BEAUTY
from eco-minded beauty gives good glow.”
brand COSTA BRAZIL
[£200] is a serene botanical
blend, with notes of vetiver,
breu resin and cypress root.”

“I’m expanding my accessories

collection with this FENDI
Baguette, in a crafty logo weave.”
Bag, £2,350

“I’ll be gearing up
with this streamlined
cycling two-piece from
DIOR, worn for the
city with a kitten
heel.” Top, from
£1,300. Shorts,
from £1,150
PIXELATE.BIZ

“GIANVITO ROSSI reigns as the king of the

party sandal, and these zesty feathered stilettos will rule
any out-out look, whether bringing bold colour to a LBD
or elevating trackpants.” Sandals, £1,095

65
 “I LOVE ICONIC
SHAPES AND THE
ROYAL OAK IS NOT
ONLY ICONIC BUT
GENDERLESS”
SERENA WILLIAMS
 Embellished organza top
and satin trousers,
EMPORIO ARMANI.
Leather shoes, GIANVITO

THE
ROSSI. White-gold and
diamond bracelet,
CHAUMET. Earrings and
ring, Nazanin’s own

VOGUE

25
From POLITICIANS to musicians,
designers to CAMPAIGNERS,
Vogue HONOURS the women
SHAPING and REMAKING
Britain in 2022. Photographs by
FELICITY INGRAM. Styling
by JULIA BRENARD

I
n 2022, the word “inspirational” is used so
indiscriminately that it is in danger of losing
its meaning. But how else to describe the
names who make up this year’s Vogue 25? The
list, established to spotlight the most influential
women in the UK, is steered by the culture
and events of the day, and features extraordinary
women excelling in all corners of life, from
Sonia Boyce to Baroness Amos, Emma
Raducanu to Jodie Comer. Yet, this year, the
editors were especially aware of those women
who have been through unimaginable ordeals
and shown resilience that offers strength to
us all. Take Nazanin Zaghari-Ratcliffe, who,
in March, was reunited with her family after
being detained for six years in Iran. Or Jebina
Yasmin Islam, whose sister, Sabina Nessa, was
murdered last September. Jebina agreed to be
photographed for Vogue as part of her work
raising awareness of male violence against
women. To put personal tragedy to use for
others is an inspiration indeed.
NAZANIN
ZAGHARI-
RATCLIFFE
Charity worker
“I don’t know how I would
have felt had I not had a
baby,” a tearful but happy
Nazanin Zaghari-Ratcliffe says,
mere months after she was
allowed to return to the UK
from Iran, where she was
arrested on spying charges
in 2016 and imprisoned, in
solitary confinement or under
house arrest, ever since.
“When I had thoughts that this
was never going to end, it was
her [Gabriella, her daughter]
love that brought me back to
life.” She is the embodiment of
resilience. “You go through
prison and then you come out
of it. Life goes on.” Although
she admits her “recovery will
be a bumpy road”, she’s
astounded at how, “I look like a
normal person. I can laugh.” >

67
 PINKPANTHERESS
Singer-songwriter
For a long time, nobody
knew the true identity of
PinkPantheress, the 21-year-old
South Londoner whose ’90s
and early Noughties-inspired
“new nostalgia” music has
come to dominate TikTok this
past year (her track “Just For
Me” has been used in almost
two million TikTok videos
alone). Pink is now a certified
global phenomenon, with a
US tour under her belt, more
than one billion streams on
Spotify and the winner of the
prestigious BBC Sound Of
2022 title. What is it about
her music that she thinks
resonates so acutely with her
peers? “There’s a youthfulness
and a naivety to the lyrics that
we would have had when we
were teenagers,” she says.

Mesh dress, CHET LO,

at Ssense.com. White-gold,
diamond, pink-sapphire and
ruby watch, AUDEMARS
PIGUET. Necklace,
PinkPantheress’s own

68
BARONESS AMOS
Politician & diplomat
At every stage of her career, Baroness
Valerie Amos has paved the way for
others: the first Black British woman to
be appointed to the cabinet, as well as
leader of the House of Lords, at 61 she
became director of London University’s
School of Oriental and African Studies,
making her the first Black woman to
head a UK university. This year, at 68,
she made history again, as she was
appointed the Order of the Garter,
making her the first Black knight or lady
companion. Although long overdue,
Amos’s trailblazing achievements
continue to astound and inspire.
CARLA DENYER
Co-leader, Green Party
At May’s local elections, the Green
Party – co-led in England and Wales
by 36-year-old Carla Denyer, who
was appointed to the role alongside
Adrian Ramsay – celebrated record-
breaking results, taking seats from all
three major parties. There may still be
a way to go before it replicates this
success in parliament, but as the party’s
representation spreads across the
country there is no question its policies
and messaging are resonating more
keenly than ever, nor any doubt that
foundations have been laid for more
Green MPs come 2024.
SHARON GRAHAM
General secretary, Unite
With inflation at a 40-year high and
wages stagnating, Sharon Graham
finds herself as the head of the UK’s
largest union, Unite – a job she was
appointed to last year, making her the
first woman to hold the role – during
one of the most turbulent times for the
British workforce. Elected for her focus
on workers, pay and conditions, as
opposed to influencing politics, her
mission to take on the profiteering
corporate sector has already resulted
in 43 pay deals worth £25 million for
a total of 12,000 workers. Next in
her sights? Amazon.

VICTORIA BECKHAM
Fashion designer
Wearing a liquid-silver slip NENSI DOJAKA
embroidered with delicate flowers, Fashion designer
Victoria Beckham gave her own
inimitable spin on wedding guest In this age of the “barely-there” dress, it is London-based Nensi Dojaka’s body-con
dressing at her son Brooklyn’s nuptials designs that reign supreme. Since graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2019,
this spring, inevitably sparking a new the Albanian designer has gone from “name to watch” to winner of the prestigious
trend (Net-a-Porter saw a 200 per cent LVMH Prize. Her celebrity fans include Rihanna, Hailey Bieber and Bella Hadid, but
increase in searches of metallic slip Dojaka’s priority is for all women to feel good in her clothes, which is why her last
dresses). Meanwhile, April’s launch of collection was modelled on a range of body types. “I have wanted to do it from the
VB Body – a permanent capsule beginning,” she says. “Especially for this type of clothing, it’s super important.” >
collection of affordable bodycon basics
– shows that the designer’s core
aesthetic is still catnip to consumers.
Jacket and top,
SHARON CHUTER NENSI DOJAKA,
at Selfridges.
Founder, Uoma Beauty Rose-gold watch,
AUDEMARS
Launched in 2019, Nigerian-born, PIGUET. Necklace,
London-based Sharon Chuter’s brand, Nensi’s own
Uoma Beauty, has already proven itself
a disruptor in the beauty space with its
desirable and inclusive make-up range.
But it is her Pull Up For Change
campaign that is truly changing the
face of the industry. By putting pressure
on companies to be transparent about
diversity, it is estimated that 4,000
Black professionals have found new
work, while the subsequent Impact Fund
provides grants to support emerging
Black founders and businesses.

JODIE COMER
Actor
Since she burst on to screens in a
froth of pink Molly Goddard tulle as
Killing Eve’s Villanelle, Jodie Comer
has proven herself to be one of our
most versatile actors – as well as one
unafraid to tackle pressing issues.
This year, she earned a Bafta for her
portrayal of a carer engulfed by the
Covid-19 crisis in Channel 4’s
harrowing Help, while her
barnstorming West End debut in
Prima Facie blew away critics and
reinvigorated conversations around
sexual consent. Due to reach Broadway
next spring, Comer has the world at
her feet – and all of us watching.

69
 Silk shirt, LORO
PIANA. Viscose trousers,
RAQUEL DINIZ. Pearl
and zirconia earrings,
COMPLETEDWORKS.
Rose-gold bracelet,
white-gold, pearl and
diamond ring, and
white-gold and diamond
ring, CHAUMET.
Necklace, Mariella’s own
MARIELLA FROSTRUP
Broadcaster & campaigner
Mariella Frostrup never intended to be a menopause “crusader”, but when she went
through it herself she was “shocked” at her own – and others’ – ignorance of
“something that happens to 50 per cent of the population”. Hundreds of women
have now shared their stories on the Menopause Mandate’s website, the group
Frostrup has since co-founded. As Britain experiences an HRT supply crisis, Frostrup
is determined to dismantle menopause’s “culture of secrecy” and help millions of
women navigate something that “is completely unavoidable and totally survivable”.
SUE GRAY DEBORAH JAMES
Civil servant Campaigner
As the senior civil servant tasked with After she was diagnosed with
investigating “Partygate”, and whether stage-three bowel cancer aged 35,
or not lockdown rules were broken in Deborah James – who sadly passed
Downing Street, Sue Gray was handed away last month – began documenting
a uniquely challenging and high-profile her treatment online and on the BBC
job. Her report found “failures of podcast You, Me and the Big C. Praised
leadership and judgment” for which for her candidness, she not only helped
“the senior leadership at the centre, other sufferers with practical advice, but
both political and official, must bear convinced many more to visit their GPs.
responsibility”. Although Boris Johnson When, in May, James shared her
survived a vote of no confidence, terminal diagnosis, she simultaneously
brought about, in part, by Gray’s launched a fund for Cancer Research
report, it is yet to be seen what the next UK. Having raised more than £7
general election holds for the prime million, her unrivalled campaigning will
minister – or if he will see it at all. continue to impact countless lives.
70
FLORENCE KNIGHT
Chef
Few chefs have second acts as brilliant
as Florence Knight. Having made her
name at Russell Norman’s Polpetto in
her twenties, her deceptively simple
menu at Sessions Arts Club has
enraptured critics since opening in
London’s Clerkenwell last year, making
it the most in-demand table in town.
Now, Knight is overseeing the
restaurants at Boath House too – a
neoclassical Highlands escape that’s
already luring the fashion crowd north.
A culinary great in the making.
LEENA NAIR
CEO, Chanel
When Leena Nair was appointed CEO
of Chanel in December 2021, she
became one of only a few women of
colour currently in the top job at a
major luxury brand. Since arriving
from Unilever (where Nair was the
company’s youngest-ever chief human
resources officer, as well as the first
woman and first Asian person to hold
the role), the British Indian executive
has already enjoyed success at the
French fashion house, with the
company seeing double-digit growth
so far this year.
DONNA OCKENDEN
Midwife
Senior midwife Donna Ockenden’s
inquiry into the harm and deaths of
mothers and babies at the Shrewsbury
and Telford NHS Trust revealed one of
the biggest health scandals in NHS
history when it was published in
March. Reviewing cases dating back to
1998, her alarming and damning
report identified seven “immediate and
essential actions” needed to improve
maternity care in England. Now,
Ockenden is turning her attention to the
Nottingham University Hospitals Trust,
where she will continue to investigate
– and, hopefully, help overhaul – poor
maternity services in the UK.
HM QUEEN ELIZABETH II
Monarch
In June, the nation – and world – came
together to toast Her Majesty The
Queen’s Platinum Jubilee, which marked
an unprecedented 70 years on the
throne, a feat no other British monarch
has accomplished. During a uniquely
turbulent period for the Royal Family,
the breadth and depth of celebrations
were testament to the Queen’s enduring
and undimmed popularity, both at
home and abroad. Truly inimitable, as
we tentatively begin to look to the
future, there is one known certainty:
never will there be a Queen, or King,
as revered as our reigning monarch.
JEBINA YASMIN
ISLAM
Campaigner
On 17 September 2021,
Sabina Nessa was walking
through a London park when
she was attacked and
murdered. In the wake of her
killing, her sister, Jebina
Yasmin Islam, has been an
outspoken critic of the
government and its handling
of the crime and others like
it. “The government needs to
do something,” says Jebina.
“It’s all words I’m hearing
and no action. Women should
feel safe to walk down the
street day and night. How
many more horrendous
crimes have to be committed
for them to take action?” >

Cotton/silk dress, S MAX

MARA. Embellished
leather shoes, ROGER
VIVIER. Hijab, HAUTE
HIJAB. Brooch and rings,
Jebina’s own

71
 SONIA BOYCE
Artist
Sonia Boyce is not only the
first Black British artist to
represent the UK at the Venice
Biennale, but the first British
artist in 29 years to take home
its most coveted award, the
Golden Lion for Best National
Participation. It’s par for the
course for Boyce: she was the
first Black British woman to
have a work purchased by the
Tate, in 1987, and the first to
be elected to the Royal
Academy, in 2016. “Part of
the reason I squirm when that
comes up is it tells you what I
am, but not what I do,” she
says. There is no question,
though, at 60, with her
international reputation
refreshed, her art and
influence are being seen and
felt by more people than ever.

Silk dress, ANEST

COLLECTIVE. Striped
scarf, LESCARF.
Silver and gold-vermeil
ring, ALIGHIERI

72
EMMA RADUCANU
Tennis player
It took just three months in 2021 for
the formidable teenager, fresh from her
A levels, to go from Wimbledon wild
card to the first British woman to win
a Grand Slam singles title in more than
four decades. She has held on to the
British No1 spot since, despite illness
and injuries, and continues to climb
up the global rankings. Taking the
accompanying fame in her stride,
Raducanu has shown she is just as
powerful off the court as on: she is
passionate about being a role model for
young girls, while ambassadorships for
Dior and Tiffany have made her a
genuine fashion force. But it is her
relentless drive and refreshing frankness,
particularly in regards to her mental
health, that has breathed new life into
the sport and proved that overnight
sensations can have longevity too.
SOPHIA SMITH GALER
Journalist
Beginning her career at the BBC,
Sophia Smith Galer was its first
employee to start experimenting with
TikTok as a means to tell – and gather
– global news stories. Consequently,
she has been instrumental in helping
establishment media make inroads on
the video-sharing platform to connect
with its predominantly Gen Z audience.
Her innovative reporting, combining
hard-hitting news with light, factual
videos – on everything from the war in
Ukraine and gun violence to sex
education – have garnered more than
80 million views and been watched
around the world. Now a senior news
reporter for Vice World News, Smith
Galer is at the forefront of a changing
journalism landscape.
EMMA THOMPSON KISHANI WIDYARATNA
Actor Publisher
Who knew that a quiet British indie film As the editorial director of 4th Estate,
– Good Luck to You, Leo Grande – Kishani Widyaratna’s job sees her work
would prove to be a talking point of the with literary titans ranging from Joyce
year? Playing a woman in her sixties Carol Oates to Chimamanda Ngozi
seeking satisfaction from a sex worker, Adichie. Yet it’s her eye for young talent
Thompson has succeeded in delivering – and commitment to diversifying the
one of the most critically lauded still-elitist publishing world – that has
performances of her career, while also cemented her status as one of the key
igniting an important conversation players transforming the industry. Not
around desire and shame that has only is Widyaratna behind some of the
reverberated far beyond the UK. buzziest millennial authors writing now
Upcoming roles in the blockbuster – Raven Smith, Monica Heisey and
Matilda and What’s Love Got to Do Otegha Uwagba included – she’s
With It? show Thompson is still a potent refreshingly vocal about the need for
cinematic force. systemic change at every opportunity.
ALEX MAHON
CEO, Channel 4
In the now almost five years since she became the first woman CEO of Channel 4,
Alex Mahon has led the broadcaster from strength to strength, continuously
producing critically lauded programming. “The very special thing about Channel
4 is it’s about creating social impact through entertainment,” says Mahon. Recently
unveiled government plans to sell the publicly owned channel, in spite of its success,
leave Mahon unfazed in her mission “to challenge the status quo. [Channel 4 is]
there to speak up for the under-represented,” she adds. “That’s such a privilege.” >
Dress, VICTORIA
BECKHAM. Rose-gold
and diamond watch,
AUDEMARS PIGUET.
Gold bracelets and gold and
diamond ring, CARTIER

JEMMA TADD
Head of fashion, eBay UK
It’s official: second-hand fashion has hit
the mainstream, as eBay’s partnership
with this year’s series of Love Island
goes to show. Since taking the role of
head of fashion at the end of 2020,
Jemma Tadd has been instrumental in
pushing eBay’s impressive sustainability
credentials: the resale site has seen
sales of pre-loved clothing go up by 20
per cent year on year and more than
17,770 tonnes of textiles waste
diverted from landfill in 2021 alone.
With eBay as the British Fashion
Council’s newest patron, Tadd hopes to
drive progress and encourage
innovation of reuse and resale, while
the site’s launch of Imperfects – a new
section featuring flawed but brand-new
designer pieces – is playing a key role
in creating a more circular industry
moving forward.
 OLIA HERCULES Wool dress, ANNA
OCTOBER. Steel watch,
Chef & campaigner AUDEMARS PIGUET.
Necklace, Olia’s own.
“It’s reinforced my faith in For stockists, all pages,
humanity,” says chef Olia see Vogue Information.
Hercules of the “staggering Hair: YUMI NAKADA-
response” to Cook for Ukraine, DINGLE. Make-up:
the now global initiative she KRISTINA RALPH
ANDREWS. Nails:
co-founded in February 2022
JENNI DRAPER. Set
to help gather funds for those design: GEORGE
affected by the war. Thanks to LEWIN. Production:
restaurants and supper clubs, THE.CURATED.
home cooks and school bake Digital artwork:
sales, close to £1 million has DTOUCH LONDON
so far been raised for Unicef,
as has invaluable awareness
of the plight of her home
country, all through its culinary
culture. For Hercules (whose
new book, Home Food, is out
now), the experience of
campaigning has altered her
forever. “Even when Ukraine is
free, I’m not going to stop my
activism,” she says. “I’m a
changed person.”

74
 “I WANTED TO
PLACE A RAINBOW
IN THE MOST
UNEXPECTED OF
PLACES, A LITTLE
LIKE WHEN YOU
SEE OIL FLOATING
ON A PUDDLE”
CAROLINA BUCCI
VOGUE ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE

Beauty in strength, strength in beauty: herein lies the affinity

between Serena Williams and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
watch, which has accompanied her on countless challenges and
triumphs over the years. Williams’s unparalleled career – alongside
her four Olympic gold medals and 23 Grand Slams, this year
marks the 20th anniversary of her first No1 ranking, one she has
enjoyed for a total of 319 weeks – is inspirational not just in the
sheer size of its success, but also for the style and grace that have
accompanied it.
For a campaign celebrating new Royal Oak and Code 11.59
iterations by Audemars Piguet, Williams shares maxims she has
followed on paths to victory and in the face of adversity: “Work
hard. Be resilient. Believe in yourself. Persevere no matter the
challenge you face.” Words that provide reassurance merely from
the fact they are called upon by the seemingly unshakeable
character of one of the world’s greatest ever athletes.
The collaboration with Audemars Piguet has proved a long
and fruitful one, in a life and career blessed with several important
partnerships. Drawn to the impressive performance credentials
and strong graphic quality of Audemars Piguet watches, Williams
explains, “I love iconic shapes and the Royal Oak is not only
iconic but genderless, which I love.”
Audemars Piguet’s partnership with Williams is just one of
the more recent expressions of the watchmaker’s heritage for
collaboration with unique female talent. The Royal Oak, featured
in this campaign, was reworked for women in 1976 by jeweller
Jacqueline Dimier as one of her first projects for Audemars Piguet.
Adjusting the size of the face just fractionally, Dimier launched
the model to raised eyebrows at a time when small, dainty
wristwatches proliferated and prioritised space for diamonds on
their surface. “My approach was to preserve its character as a
timepiece and focus on proportions,” Dimier has said of the
process. “I wanted the watch to stay big, which wasn’t the trend
for women at all.”
Key to the heritage of Audemars Piguet is this defiance of
convention, particularly in the exploration of materials. The
original Royal Oak, launched in 1972, rejected a gold casing that
would have been a safer bet for housing its uniquely complex
movement, opting instead for a bold steel to accentuate its graphic
angles. Today, the Royal Oak collection explores an array of
materials, from ceramic to brushed titanium and diamonds, all
sharing a kindred sense of uniqueness and strength.
Of the various iterations of the Royal Oak favoured by
Williams, the limited-edition model designed in collaboration
with acclaimed London-based Florentine jeweller Carolina Bucci
(worn on these pages) is particularly captivating. Bucci’s version
explores her signature flair for colour and inventive treatment of
materials and fabrication in a black ceramic casing, with a face
employing a brilliantly smooth reinterpretation of the Royal Oak
“Tapisserie” textured surface to produce an iridescent effect in
movement. “One of my favourite aspects of this collaboration is
that the team is always up for any challenge I throw at them,”
Bucci told Vogue about her collaboration with the brand. “I don’t
think it’s a shock anymore when I turn up with a crazy idea.”
Acts of benevolent rebellion unite all the women whose stories
infuse this special timepiece. The last word must go to Serena
Williams, who inspires by simply daring to be herself: “I don’t
want to go into a room and blend in,” she once told Vogue, adding,
“I’ve never been like anybody else in my life and I’m not going
to start now.”
For more information, visit Audemarspiguet.com
Serena Williams
wears the Royal The ROYAL OAK collection
Oak Selfwinding
Carolina Bucci explores an array of MATERIALS,
Limited Edition
in 34mm
which all share a kindred sense of
UNIQUENESS and STRENGTH

STRENGTH in NUMBERS
Now in its sixth decade of CHANGING the game in high watchmaking, AUDEMARS
PIGUET’s Royal Oak has aligned with REMARKABLE athlete SERENA WILLIAMS
since 2014. A new campaign CELEBRATES their collective power
 SUNNY DISPOSITION
Elongate golden hour with
summery staples. Polo
Ralph Lauren’s latest
addition, the Polo ID, in a
warm, buttery hue is the
perfect starting point.
For summer evenings,
it’ll quickly become
your go-to companion.

Bag, £439,
POLO RALPH
LAUREN

Made in the SHADE

Sorbet HUES that hit the LIGHT just RIGHT. Edited by
HOLLY TOMALIN. Photograph by BAKER & EVANS
78
 CHECKLIST
VOGUE PARTNERSHIP

Sunglasses, £320,
VICTORIA
BECKHAM

Shoes, £50,
MANGO

Trousers, £175,
MARC
CAIN

Earrings,
POMELLATO

Bag, £775,

Vogue, November 2021

SMYTHSON

MAC COSMETICS Powder

Kiss Velvet Blur Slim Stick, £24

Bag, £350,
SELF-
PORTRAIT

Shoes, £245,
RUSSELL &
Jacket, £329, BROMLEY
Flannels latest Liverpool opening is the hottest WHISTLES
EDDIE WREY

destination for luxury in the city. Set over

seven floors, the newest flagship boasts
everything from a vast beauty hall to an
in-store Barry’s Bootcamp. Flannels.com

79
 + FREE GIFT
+ FREE DIGITAL EDITIONS
+ FREE HOME DELIVERY
FOR ONLY £28 *

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Free welcome gifts are sent to payers. Customers can cancel a subscription at any time and receive a full refund on any issues yet to be mailed.
 BEAUTY &
WELLNESS
EDITED BY JESSICA DINER

Grace Elizabeth wears crêpe bralette,

VALENTINO. Crystal and gold-plated
asymmetric earrings, SWAROVSKI
DIRECTOR’S CUT

Summer
BREEZE
Be carried away to SUNNIER
CLIMES with these uplifting
warm-weather SCENTS, says
JESSICA DINER
MAISON FRANCIS
KURKDJIAN AQUA CELESTIA
COLOGNE FORTE, £165
ESTEE LAUDER BRONZE
Aqua Celestia is one of three new GODDESS NUIT, £60
colognes fortes from the French
fragrance house, which blends Tonka, bergamot, jasmine,
bergamot with blackcurrant, ylang-ylang and night-
mimosa and jasmine for a modern blooming orchid (combined
interpretation on a perennial. with the same creamy
coconut base that is the
Bronze Goddess fragrance
LA COLLECTION PRIVEE CHRISTIAN signature) make for a
DIOR EDEN-ROC, £110 captivating mist, perfect
Close your eyes, spray this perfume, for a summer’s evening.
and you just might think you’re at the
Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc (the Antibes
hot spot famed for its immortalisation
in Slim Aarons’s photographs). It’s a
sunshine-filled scent combining white
flowers with pine and coconut.

CLARINS EAU
EXTRAORDINAIRE, £38
Be transported to the
Mediterranean with this
mood-boosting jasmine-based
essence that incorporates
Clarins’s signature botanical
extracts to keep skin soft,
hydrated and smelling fresh.

ARMANI PRIVE INDIGO

TANZANITE, £180

VYRAO FREE 00, £135 Taking a journey through

Sicilian lemon and Egyptian jasmine combine with
vanilla, water lily and orange flower to create
a holiday-in-a-bottle perfume that also contains a
supercharged Herkimer diamond quartz to distil
good vibes with every spritz.
Tanzania as part of the Terres
Précieuses collection for Armani
Privé fragrances, this patchouli
and bergamot-based blend of
Indigo Tanzanite celebrates the
colours and scents of Africa.

82
 Fringed cover-up and
swimsuit, MISSONI.
EDDIE WREY

Gold hoop earrings,

ANGHARAD.
For stockists, all pages,
see Vogue Information
83
SLUGREM
Earrings and bralette,
as before. Shorts,
VALENTINO

84

DON’T SWEAT IT
“Dreamy summer skin is flawless, radiant
and sun-kissed, but never overworked – it
should look as though you’ve spent the
day on the beach,” says Chanel make-up
artist Anna Payne. “It can be a hard
balance to strike – you want to glow from
within but not look too oily or overly
bronzed.” Whether you’re basking in
tropical climes or al fresco on home soil,
the secret to looking healthy and luminous
all summer lies in the details.
Begin with your base. Depending on
the level of coverage you’re after, seek out
lightweight tinted or sheer formulas to
ensure skin feels suitably comfortable in
the heat. Estée Lauder’s new Double Wear
Sheer Long-Wear Makeup SPF20,
£35.50, is non-comedogenic and sweat-
proof, plus has added UV protection. Laura
Mercier Tinted Moisturizer Light
Revealer Natural Skin Illuminator, £37,
too, is packed with French algae to hydrate
while imparting a dewy glow to skin.
EDDIE WRET
Payne then recommends swooshing
some cream bronzer – Vogue loves
Charlotte Tilbur y Beautiful Skin
Sunkissed Glow Bronzer, £42 – anywhere
the light hits. “To add dimension on the
face, use two different shades of blusher:
first, a natural, earthy tone on the apple
of cheeks and then a pop of coral or pink
in the centre,” she says.
Chanel’s Les Beiges Water-Fresh
Blusher, £42, is ideal for creating a
believable-looking flush, thanks to a water-
based formula full of pigment micro-
droplets; Nars Summer Unrated Blush and
Bronzer Duo, £37, is finely milled and
melts into the complexion; and Benefit’s
newly expanded Blush Collection, from
£27.50, has a shade for every skin tone.
To top it all off, make the most of the
golden hour with a gloss-giving highlighter.
Try Victoria Beckham Beauty Reflect
Highlighter Stick, £36, and Jones Road
Shimmer Face Oil, £29.
BEAUTY
Beauty
MUSINGS
Great PLANS for summer
hair, skin and nails,
by HANNAH COATES
MAKING WAVES
On beach trips, beside the pool or sightseeing,
frizz and flyaways are often unwelcome visitors.
An array of new formulas work to boost shine
and keep hair smooth. Take Virtue Frizz Block
Smoothing Spray, £42, which fends off UV
and heat damage and offsets the effects of
humidity, or Olaplex No9 Bond Protector
Nourishing Hair Serum, £26, that helps fortify
each strand’s bonds to prevent damage. It also
pays to look after your scalp for healthier hair
– we love JVN Nourishing Shine Drops, £19,
and This Hair Of Mine Scalp Serum, £46.
HOT TIPS
For manicures: the brighter, the better –
from left, some of the best to try now.
Dior Vernis in Bayadère, £22. CND
Vinylux Long Wear Polish in Poppyfields,
£12. Essie Nail Lacquer in Watermelon,
£8. Nails Inc Nail Polish in Rising Sun
Court, part of set, £22
85
 BEAUTY

RAISING THE BAR

Elevate the in-shower experience with luxurious
SOAPS on a rope, says LAUREN MURDOCH-SMITH.
Photograph by DAVID ABRAHAMS
DIGITAL ARTWORK: THE HAND OF GOD

Clockwise from above: CLAUS PORTO

Musgo Real Soap in Spiced Citrus, £20.
TAMANOHADA Welcome Soap in
Pomegranate, £50, at Paul Smith.
SENTEURS D’ORIENT Hammam Soap in
Rose of Damascus, £33, at Liberty. KLEEN
Soaps in Foot Loose, £9.50 each. LOEWE Bar
Soap in Oregano, £40
87
BEAUTY
The
LIPSTICK
index
From MATT pigments to JUICY shine,
textures in lipstick abound. TISH
WEINSTOCK asks which will you
choose? Photograph by EDDIE WREY
FOR HIGH-SHINE SEDUCTION: TRY VINYL
Lip vinyls are having a moment. With its saturated colour
and candied gleam, Tom Ford Lip Lacquer Vinyl in
Intimidate, £44, creates the perfect pout. Elsewhere, Estée
Lauder Pure Color Envy Kissable Lip Shine, £24, is slightly
sheerer, but no less luminous. Alternatively, tap into
Noughties decadence with a touch of shimmer: Chanel
Rouge Coco Gloss, £31, comes in a variety of iridescent
hues. Otherwise, go full Y2K with Victoria Beckham Beauty
Posh Gloss, £26, which comes in myriad colour options
and looks good enough to eat.
FOR A DEWY FLUSH: PIGMENTED BALMS ARE THE WAY TO GO
Pigmented balms are lipstick’s answer to the “no make-up” make-up
look. Take, for instance, the Jones Road Beauty Miracle Balm, £34:
rich in fatty acids, vitamins and minerals, it creates a soft-focus
colour for a radiant glow. YSL Beauty’s new Nu Lip & Cheek Balmy
Tint, £20, does a similar thing: lightweight and creamy, it naturally
enhances lips with a tinted glow. Hourglass Phantom Volumizing
Glossy Balm, £34, plumps and hydrates lips and, if you’re looking
for something stronger, try Violette_Fr Bisou Balm, £24: with its
unique matt finish, it’s perfect for creating that just-bitten pout.
88
FOR A BOLD STATEMENT: GO MATT
During the global pandemic, lipstick sales
went into decline, for obvious mask-related
reasons. No surprises, then, that as we
return to normality statement lips are making
a defiant comeback. Take, for instance,
Lancôme’s new L’Absolu Rouge Drama
Matte, £28.50. Bursting with pigment, as
well as hyaluronic acid to keep lips well
moistened, it is ideal for anyone looking to
make an impact. If it’s a classic red you’re
after, look no further than Mac Cosmetics
legendary Ruby Woo, £18.50, or the
16H Comfort Lightweight Luminous Matte
Lipstick from Guerlain, £32. For a softer
approach, Charlotte Tilbury Matte
Revolution in Pillow Talk Original, £26,
is a pretty pink – ideal for the ingénue.
METARAMBA PRODUCTIONS. DIGITAL ARTWORK: ART POST. MODEL: GRACE ELIZABETH. PIXELATE.BIZ
STYLING: POPPY KAIN. HAIR: CLAIRE GRECH. MAKE-UP: LYNSEY ALEXANDER. PRODUCTION:
FOR ULTIMATE FRESHNESS: USE LIP OIL
Think of lip oils as a modern update on
Lancôme’s famed Juicy Tube: all the shine
but without the stickiness, and with an
added skincare element. Made with “colour
reviver” tech, Dior Addict Glow Lip Oil,
£29.50, reacts with the moisture level of
your lips to reveal a custom colour. Hermès’s
new Hermèsistible range, £44, does a
similar thing, infusing lips with irresistible
colour, shine and fragrance. Deck of Scarlet
Threeway Solid Lip Oil, £25, contains
pearl pigments that melt on your mouth for a
next-level wet-look shine. And, elsewhere,
Bobbi Brown has created the perfect
multitasking product. The nutrient-rich
Crushed Oil-Infused Gloss, £20, plumps up
lips for a luscious pout and can be applied
to your cheekbones for a subtle sheen.
 SLUGREM

Earrings and
bralette, as before
89
 WELLNESS

Personal
BEST
Your guide to physical
and mental wellbeing
Edited by KATHLEEN BAIRD-MURRAY
O
ALASDAIR McLELLAN

85
 W
hen are you back? I need you to write a story
about supplements.” I was away in New York
when I received the text from my editor in
London. Inwardly groaning, I rang her. “But
you know I hate supplements,” I demurred.
OK, “hate” is a stretch, however I am
fatigued by the plethora of press releases on
supplements in my already anxiety-inducing
inbox. I find whatever form supplements
take – pills, powders, capsules, liquids, chews
– they mostly taste and/or smell vile. (Blend
that collagen powder with all the strawberry
flavour you want, it’s still awful.) Then there’s
all the hyperbolic, unsubstantiated claims:
“Better hair!” (I’m happy with my hair,
thanks.) “Less wrinkles!” (I couldn’t care
SUPPLEMENTAL benefits
less.) “Better digestion!” (I can chew.) When, When it comes to taking nutritional
on occasion, I’ve tried joining this uber-
fashionable movement, I rarely make it past SUPPLEMENTS, the new pills to pop are far
day five – I simply forget to take the stuff. from a ONE-SIZE-FITS-ALL. But are they
My editor patiently listens before cheerfully
responding, “This actually makes you the strictly necessary? A self-confessed sceptic,
perfect candidate. It’s a good time to rethink!” FUNMI FETTO, examines the EVIDENCE
So here we are. But she has a point. The
pandemic has forced us all to pay closer
attention to our health. The world’s obsession
with supplements, however, is one that has The cynic in me asks, “But wouldn’t a excess can cause more harm than good. I’ve
so far evaded me. Perhaps not for much better diet eliminate the need for had patients who have had regular vitamin
longer, though… Taking supplements is supplements?” Well, yes and no. While B drips, added oral vitamin B supplements
nothing new, but today ’s zeal for naturopathic nutritionist Rita Arora tells me, and ended up with macrocytic anaemia, a
“supplementing” has largely been driven by “You can’t put crap in your body and expect condition that causes abnormal red blood
the shift in their positioning – basically it’s supplements to work,” one reason we might cells, fatigue and heart palpitations.”
had a sexy makeover. “Cool, independent need supplements, even with a balanced diet, In stark contrast, the conversation
brands,” explains Lisa Payne, head of beauty comes down to lifestyle stressors. “So many around vitamin D intake centres on
at trends agency Stylus, “took supplements of us are working all hours, expected to deficiency, specifically in people of colour.
from the health food/pharmacy aisles into always be responsive on our phones. There In a 2021 University of Surrey study
the likes of Sephora and Cult Beauty. So is an impact on how many nutrients our published by the European Journal of Clinical
buying your monthly multivitamin is no body absorbs when we are under a lot of Nutrition, researcher Marcela Mendes and
longer a chore, but a delight that comes with stress.” Other factors, such as chemicals in her team looked at the vitamin D and dietary
ANNE MENKE/TRUNK ARCHIVE

the same dopamine response as picking up
a new lipstick.” The pandemic, she says, has
“thrown this global health consciousness into
overdrive”. Hence it is big business. In 2021,
the global dietary supplement market was
said to be worth $151.9 billion. By 2030, that
figure is projected to rise to $327.4 billion.
food, soil depletion and the way food is
transported, has meant, for many, taking
supplements is non-negotiable. GP Anita
Sturnham, however, warns against “over
supplementing”. “I am regularly shocked by
the number of supplements many of my
patients are taking. Taking supplements in
intakes of the Black community globally,
which is a first. They found those in higher-
latitude countries, such as the UK, were more
deficient in vitamin D. “This is an exceptional
nutrient,” explains Mendes, “in that its main
source is the exposure of the skin to UV rays.
While it can also be ingested through diet,

92

because vitamin D is present in few foods
and in small quantities, frequent casual
exposure to sunlight has been long considered
the most important source. People of colour
are at higher risk of being vitamin D deficient
because the melanin in our skin functions
as a natural sunscreen. Therefore individuals
with higher melanin require more UV light
exposure to synthesise the same amount of
vitamin D3 as those with less melanin.”
So when I heard about Sow Minerals,
a supplement brand created by Simi Launay
– a British-Nigerian art curator – to combat
the vitamin deficiencies of people with
African, Asian and Arab heritage, my ears
pricked up. The mid-pandemic reports
revealing that Black and Asian people were
disproportionately impacted by Covid-19
is what galvanised Launay into action. “I
found the statistics so alarming that I began
researching vitamins and minerals that could
help build immunity and looked at how
nutrition could help manage other conditions
– such as fibroids and diabetes – that are
prevalent among people of colour.” In all of
Launay’s research, a deficiency in vitamin
D was found to be a running thread. Hence
the end result of Sow Minerals is a clinically
backed complex of vitamins that tackles
everything from fatigue and skin health to
an immunity supplement that activates the
body’s defence mechanism. Of course, one
could simply take any old vitamin D, but as
nutritional therapist and wellbeing coach
Isa Welly explains, not all vitamins are made
equal. “Most vitamins on the market are
bulked up with additives, so it’s important
to choose a brand that is transparent about
the source and quality of their ingredients.”
While vitamin D is believed to lower
the risk associated with autoimmune
diseases and respiratory infections, and
some studies have shown that those with
higher levels of vitamin D are less likely to
test positive for Covid-19, the data linking
Covid-19 to vitamin D deficiency is sparse.
Hence Mendes believes, “There is an urgent
need for more robust studies on non-white
populations, so we can better understand
specific nutritional requirements.” It is an
issue Welly has long raised. “In the
meantime,” she says, “since we do know
vitamin D is really important for this
demographic, we just need to keep
spreading the awareness.”
So the jury is in. Given the combination
of modern-life maladies and our genetic
make-up, at some point we all need
supplements. Still, it’s a minefield. So what
to do? “Supplement consumption,” maintains
Sturnham, “should be guided by a specialist.”
Which is why I’m deleting those hyperbolic
press releases and running with what the
experts say about supplements. Now I just
have to remember to take them.
WELLNESS special
WHAT THE EXPERTS SAY
“It is easy to get swept up in the marketing hype of nutritional supplements that claim to
perform miracles,” says nutritionist Lucy Miller. “But what supplements we need and how we
respond to them depends on so many factors, such as absorption issues, genetics, underlying
health conditions, physical and psychological stress.” Here’s how to simplify the processÉ
1. Take a blood test: Everything from immunity to hormone regulation is affected by nutrition
and a deficiency in certain nutrients can trigger a host of issues: fatigue, weight gain/loss,
mood imbalances, loss of bone density and more. While most people would consider the
easiest solution is to take supplements they feel are relevant to their condition, nutritionist
and naturopath Rita Arora warns against this approach. “I would start with a test to see
what else is going on.” This, many experts agree, is the best way to get conclusive evidence
about which vitamins and minerals you are actually deficient in and therefore need.
2. Speak to an expert: “A proper professional consultation is a great first step. That way
you can determine what the body needs and create an accurate, personal plan,” says
Margo Marrone, co-founder of The Organic Pharmacy, where a vitamin and mineral scan,
as well as a full health assessment, is offered. Consider also booking in with an independent
nutritionist. That said, as “nutritionist” is not a formally recognised profession in the UK
(anyone can call themselves one), be sure to check Associationfornutrition.org, which holds
the register for qualified nutritionists recognised by Public Health England and the NHS.
3. Go for quality over quantity: Choose a brand that is transparent about how they source
their ingredients and make sure the vitamins don’t have additives in them. Also, “Look for
patented supplement ingredients,” says Lucy Goff, founder of Lyma, a cutting-edge tech
supplement brand that uses “Nutraceuticals”, which Goff says “are patented extracts that
have been intensively researched and have proved their preclinical and clinical functionality”.
4. If in doubt, take omega-3 fatty acids: “The body cannot make these itself and so they
have to be consumed, mainly via oily fish and in flaxseeds, chia seeds, walnuts and soybeans,”
says Miller. “They are significant for overall health and beneficial for the cardiovascular
system, skin, brain health and mood.” Choose a sustainable, wild-caught brand such as
Bare Biology that contains high levels of DHA and EPA, which are types of omega-3 fats.
From left:
SYMPROVE
Probiotic
Supplement, from
£79. THE
ORGANIC
PHARMACY
Essential Fatty Acid
& B Complex, £32.
BARE BIOLOGY
Mindful Omega-3
Fish Oil
Capsules, £19
CAPSULE
COLLECTIONS
Above, from left: LYMA Supplement, from £149.
ALTRIENT Liposomal Vitamin C, £44.50. WILD
NUTRITION Food-Grown Magnesium, £16.50
93
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 WELLNESS special

FACE TIME
TOOL UP with hi-tech
face GADGETS and
wearables that will optimise
your RECOVERY,
says LAUREN MURDOCH-
SMITH. Photograph by
BEATE SONNENBERG

1.

3.
2.

4.

5.

1. CURRENTBODY SKIN LED EYE PERFECTOR, £199, concentrates on some of the most common eye concerns, using four different
LED wavelengths – amber, red, deep red and near-infrared – to rejuvenate the eye area.
2. THERABODY THERAFACE PRO, £375, is a facial workout tool with six different therapies, including LED, percussive and microcurrent.
3. LYMA LASER, £1,999, boasts the strongest at-home laser technology, improving pigmentation, scarring, acne and lines in 12 weeks.
4. APPLE WATCH SERIES 7, with Pride Edition Sport Loop, from £599, measures your blood oxygen, keeps track of your sleep and
cycles and syncs with companion app Fitness+ for a well-rounded health-monitoring wearable.
5. SOLAWAVE ADVANCED SKINCARE WAND, from £125, is a four-in-one skincare wand that offers microcurrent to work muscles,
light therapy to improve skin texture, massage to alleviate puffiness and warmth to optimise product absorption and efficacy.

95
 FULL RETREAT
Still suffering after COVID-19?
FREDERIQUE VERLEY visits SHA WELLNESS
CLINIC to sample their next-gen
HEALING treatments

96
 WELLNESS special

w
ith a full examination, blood tests, a 3D body
scan and a sleep assessment – all carried out on
arrival – concluding I have low blood pressure
(90/50), post-Covid-19 muscle loss and an
unbalanced nervous system, I start my stay at
Sha Wellness Clinic in Alicante, Spain, with a
true snapshot of the current state of my body.
The team of doctors opt for a three-pronged
approach, beginning with an energy boost to
tackle the fatigue I’ve been experiencing. I’m
prescribed photobiomodulation sessions (in
which LED light at different wavelengths is
applied to the brain) to boost the activity of the
neuronal mitochondria. Wearing a metal
helmet, I feel gentle energising impulses
running through my skull for 45 minutes.
The second tactic is to regenerate with
intravenous fluids. Designed to help the body
get rid of toxins generated by Covid-19, so far
it’s proven popular with athletes, though is still
prohibited in some countries. The first session
uses ozone: after blood is withdrawn, it is
treated and enriched and then reinjected. The
ozone is intended to assist in the production
of glutathione, a super antioxidant and powerful
anti-inflammatory. The second session, 48
hours later, consists of a 20g megadose of
vitamin C combined with magnesium and a
large glass of calcium.
The third part involves taking a firm look
at diet, with a focus on anti-inflammatory food.
The day begins with a miso soup, to strengthen
the intestinal microbiota. After that the
objective is to limit simple sugars, which are
inflammatory. Before lunch and dinner, I start
my meal with apple cider vinegar diluted in a
small glass of water, which is reported to help
digestion. I end the meal with a cup of apple
juice (rich in anti-inflammatory quercetin)
thickened with kudzu, a root used in traditional
Chinese medicine.
I leave with a list of essential food
supplements to further balance the nervous
system: vitamins C and D, omega-3, B vitamins,
zinc, turmeric and tryptophan (for better sleep).
Two weeks later, as I write this article, I am still
keeping to my dietary goals following the 80/20
rule – 80 per cent of my diet is healthy (following
the Sha precepts), the other 20 per cent is for
pleasure – and I have regained most of my energy.
My stay here has allowed for a true rebirth.
Shawellnessclinic.com

97
WELLNESS special
FOOD for your MOOD
What happens when you make good MENTAL HEALTH your focus instead of
weight loss? HANNAH COATES follows a new NUTRITIONAL programme in
which the only PROMISES are to yourself. Illustration by SOPHIE GLOVER
T
hings I wish I had learnt about at school: taxes, a little more French
and ways in which I can nourish body and mind. That last one is
particularly pertinent, especially because in 2017 it was estimated
that 792 million people worldwide have a mental health issue, from
anxiety and OCD to manic depression.
I have long been at the whims of yo-yoing mental health,
which mostly manifests as deep melancholy, health anxiety and
low self-esteem. It comes and it goes, and you never know when
a mental health “moment” might strike, but I can reasonably expect
a bout if I’m burnt out or haven’t been looking after myself properly.
While I’ve learnt a consistent exercise routine can help keep one
at bay, it was not until recently that I realised my diet was an area
I had unwittingly neglected.
Food is medicine – that’s what all the experts say. I began
hearing this message loud and clear via various wellbeing podcasts,
but a diligent approach to my diet evaded me. In retrospect, food
was one of my biggest coping mechanisms, a plaster I repeatedly
applied on wounds that never healed. My diet fluctuated in tandem
with my mental health (and vice versa) and while I’d tried to
address it previously, I always found myself reverting to past habits.
At the heart of it all was a reluctance to change my relationship
to a long-time emotional crux.
That is, until weight gain, discomfort and feeling out of control
began to overwhelm me – in a post-pandemic world, change
beckoned. I got in touch with Rhian Stephenson, a nutritionist,
naturopath and founder of Artah, who I believed could help me
reframe my relationship with food – not just to get my physical
form in a healthy state, but to reprogramme my mental health and
help me find structure and peace around my diet. After a Zoom call
discussing what I currently ate, how I was feeling, along with energy
levels, weight, gut health, libido, skin condition and so on, Stephenson
advised that my core focus was addressing my mood: “We want to
get your food and exercise working better for you, remove some
of the dietary triggers of anxiety and replace them with foods that
help balance mood and neurotransmitter production through their
vitamin and mineral content,” she said, adding that triggers include
sugar, excess gluten, alcohol and ultra-processed foods, as well as
(indirectly) excess dairy. All the things I was eating regularly.
“Sugar is the main culprit when it comes to mood,” says
Stephenson. “It has been shown to cause anxiety, depression,
cognitive issues, lack of focus and concentration, and erratic moods.
And those are just the emotional effects – it’s also detrimental to
physical wellbeing too. Meanwhile, mood issues such as irritability,
anxiety, brain fog and even depression are all linked to gluten.”
For those experiencing mood-related symptoms, Stephenson always
encourages a period of elimination, advising that there is no better
feedback than what your body is telling you.
98
The 28-day plan I embarked on, under Stephenson’s guidance,
saw me swap my sugar, starch and carb-heavy diet for one free of
these mood-altering triggers. Saying goodbye to bread and red
wine was undoubtedly hard, but the four-week programme, which
involved one modified fasting week, opened my eyes to how tasty
(and filling) good quality produce, lots of vegetables and protein
can be. Thriving in a world without excess sugar, my taste buds
delighted in the sweetness of tomatoes, the crunch of courgette
and how flavoursome salmon can be.
I’d be lying if I said it was all plain sailing. During the first week
I was plagued with headaches and malaise, as my body got used to
a world without its next sugar hit, while the second week saw what
I can only describe as a period of grief. I cried most days as I began
to understand how intertwined my diet and mental health really are
– and what happened when I didn’t self-medicate with sugar-filled
comfort food. Eventually it levelled out. It was a therapeutic time
in which I reassessed what it really means to look after – and respect
– myself. I rethought many different aspects of my life, started to
listen to my body and mind, and what they were (and always had
been) communicating, and felt more empowered and in charge of
my destiny than I have in years. With sky-high energy levels, I felt
strong when exercising and my mood began to stabilise.
It has been a worthwhile reminder of the mind-body connection.
The simple fact is when I fuel my body with nutritious, whole foods,
I will feel better – and, conversely, if I ingest too much sugar, alcohol
or gluten, the opposite is true. Since I’ve been able to see this dynamic
playing out, it makes it much harder to reach for a chocolate bar
when I’m feeling stressed or unhappy, because I know it doesn’t feed
me in the long run. A consistent and structured diet has become the
roots I needed to anchor myself in a hectic life and is something
I can rely on when things are tough for all aspects of my health. And
with my focus entirely on how I have been feeling, the fact I have
also lost nearly a stone in weight almost entirely evaded me.
“When your diet causes you uncomfortable or damaging
symptoms, then cutting certain foods out becomes much more
intuitive and a step towards self-care, rather than punishment,”
confirms Stephenson. “Once you’ve made that connection between
something you eat and a negative symptom, it’s hard to ignore and
you naturally start to think twice about eating it, which cements
into a behaviour that’s rooted in something positive. It’s much easier
to build great health by taking steps like these.”
A few months down the line and I’m not the holier-than-thou
person I might sound to be. I still love food and bougie dinners at
restaurants, but day-to-day I adhere to many of the rules Stephenson
set me in that first 28 days. I avoid gluten and sugar 90 per cent of
the time and try to keep alcohol to a once-a-week occurrence. I plan
my meals religiously, using Artah’s digital meal subscription – an
online emporium of healthy recipes for every day of the week – and
Papier’s meal-planning notebooks. This organised approach sounds
boring, but it keeps my diet healthy and balanced, and food wastage
minimal. Plus, it’s also good for my bank balance.
So while French and my finances still evade me, at least I am
on track to mastering how to nourish myself in the next few years.
And here’s to that.
99
 WELLNESS special

OUT &
ABOUT
Peloton might be
synonymous with indoor
exercise, but the app itself
now offers a variety of
on-the-go workouts.
Activities such as running
and walking can now
be tracked like bike
workouts, and count
towards your challenges

WELLNESS
and achievements. You’ll
also be able to listen to

MUSINGS
your own music and
create routes perfect for
the summer months.
Onepeloton.co.uk

From INNOVATIVE recovery treatments

to floral workout wear, this summer
wellness is all about REJUVENATION,
says LAUREN MURDOCH-SMITH

ON A
HIGH
In search of a higher
FLOWER state of relaxation?
Higher Dose’s
PATCH
POWER Infrared Pulsed IT UP
REST & Electromagnetic Field

RELAX
Athleisure is in full bloom with mat emits If your daily quota of supplement
the famed Liberty floral print electromagnetic pill-popping is getting out of
gracing its new Feel-Good waves to give your hand, Tocu’s vitamin patches are
Florals range of activewear. The Body Lab offers the body a reset, while a a great alternative. From Super
With leggings, running Hyperbaric Hydroxy layer of crystals Woman menopause patches
LIZ COLLINS/TRUNK ARCHIVE

jackets and tops, all made
from conscious materials such
as recycled polyamide, the
best part is that you’ll be
comfortable wearing them for
everyday activities as well as
during a workout class. From
£95. Libertylondon.com
Airpod, which speeds up produces negative to their Call For Back Up, wear
healing via the increased ions. Combined with one for 24 hours and then
absorption of oxygen. It the infrared heat, it replace. The slow-release
also boasts the largest can help ease aches formulas will support your mood
Float Tank in the UK and and pain. £1,085. and dietary needs without
the coldest Cryotherapy Higherdose.com having to ingest yet more
Dual Chamber in Europe. capsules. From £15 each.
Thebodylablondon.com At Oxygenboutique.com

101

EXPERT guidance
Sometimes it’s your MIND that needs the extra attention, sometimes
it’s your BODY – and sometimes it’s both. KATHLEEN BAIRD-MURRAY
reveals the names of the SPECIALISTS who’ve helped her stay in balance
MIND
The first therapist I ever saw was crushingly expensive and
sat there listening to me grumble about everything that
was wrong with my life while he made copious notes.
Diligent, I thought – until the end of the session when I
realised he’d been writing letters to other people the whole
time. Finding the right therapist, life coach or advisor takes
a little shopping around. It’s about chemistry: do you click?
Timing: you might need to move on to someone else if
you’re not making progress. One other, perhaps little-
known, thing: a good psychotherapist is kind, keeping a
few slots aside for those in need, so do ask for a discount
if your financial circumstances merit it.
FOR ONE-ON-ONE PSYCHOTHERAPY: JANE HAYNES
Compassionate, practical, with a healthy sense of humour,
Haynes originally trained as a Jungian psychoanalyst but is
now more of a relational psychotherapist, which means she
will give feedback as needed while always watching for
what you’re not saying. A brilliant mentor, you’ll leave her
sessions feeling like someone out there cares and that you’re
moving forwards. Thebluedoorpractice.com
FOR YOUNG ADULTS: DOROTHEE BESLAND
Offering short-term and long-term psychoanalytic/
psychodynamic psychotherapy, Besland makes a plan at
the outset, so you know what you’re committing to in terms
of budget. An excellent guide for young adults, she instils
confidence and self-sufficiency to those of us floundering
with the challenges of life. Dorotheebesland.com
FOR BEHAVIOURAL AND SUBSTANCE ADDICTION:
RUPERT POTIER
Potier is not a therapist, but he is a specialist in addictive
behaviours and something of a best-kept secret, a
troubleshooter to call in times of crisis. With his team of
practitioners, all of whom are experts in dealing with
behavioural and substance addiction, he creates a plan to
get the right kind of help, enabling you to access the care
you need when facing addiction. Bespoke.health
FOR LIFE-COACHING AND BUSINESS MENTORSHIP:
RACHEL REAVLEY
RHYS FRAMPTON/TRUNK ARCHIVE
Reavley spent years working in media at executive level
and now sits on the boards of several businesses, including
Hardly Ever Worn It. Where her skills come to the fore,
though, is in guiding you through the process of thinking
positively about your goals, both personal or professional,
turning challenges into opportunities in a natural, practical
and warm way. rachel@rachelreavley.com
WELLNESS special
BODY
Once I had a great NHS GP who prescribed not being in
a relationship with someone who made me anxious
as a better alternative to taking beta blockers for stress-
related heart palpitations aged 24. Not the answer I wanted,
but probably what I needed to hear and an example of
where mind meets body. One top tip that is worth
mentioning: don’t forget the local Thai massage or Chinese
medicine practitioner. They might not have the white
marble interiors or therapy insights of their Mayfair
counterparts, but, for the nuts and bolts of an aching
body, they are highly skilled and, if you need regular
treatment, a little more affordable.
FOR ACHING BONES AND ANXIOUS MINDS:
BONIFACE VERNEY-CARRON
French-born Verney-Carron, an osteopath who’ll give you
lithe limbs, divides his time between his clinics in London
and Ibiza. His excellent and entertaining manner is
designed to get you to relax while he manipulates your
body back into harmony. Vchealthpractice.com
FOR SHIFTING ENERGY: ROSS J BARR
I knew we were going to get on when Barr asked me if
I was the kind of person who couldn’t bear to walk behind
those sorts of slow, jolly, selfie-sticky tourists. A Five
Elements Acupuncturist, his understanding of the energies
behind our wood, fire, earth, metal and water elements will
help restore balance wherever it is needed. Rossbarr.com
FOR BALANCING HORMONES: SARA J MATTHEWS
One of the best menopause practitioners out there and a
consultant gynaecologist for anyone in need of IVF, I like
Matthews for her thoroughness, for insisting that I needed a
scan in addition to blood tests. There’s a long waiting list,
but she is well worth it. Sarajmatthews.com
FOR THOROUGH DIAGNOSTIC CHECK-UPS:
SABINE DONNAI
When it comes to head-to-toe preventative medicine,
they don’t come more thorough than at the Viavi clinic.
And, best of all, consulting general physician Donnai’s
advice is very often practical and more about the small
changes you can make. Viavi.com
FOR EASING TIGHT MUSCLES: THAI HARMONY
I was recently introduced to this practice in London (Notting
Hill Gate and Goodge Street) by a friend. Ask for Mandy,
whose powerful kneading of knots comes from years of
experience and satisfied clients. Thaiharmony.co.uk
103
WELLNESS special
Make MERRY
with the PERI
Are your thirties too soon to start thinking
about PERIMENOPAUSE?
TISH WEINSTOCK takes an early
look at the hormonal JOURNEY that
lies ahead and calls for more
EDUCATION at a younger age
T
alk to anyone experiencing perimenopause and you’ll hear complaints
that would rival a medication side-effects warning – you know, those
ones on long infomercials that list so many symptoms you’re put
off buying the medication in the first place. But for anyone going
through it, the side effects of perimenopause aren’t something so
easily avoided as reaching for the “off ” button.
In my early thirties, it’s probably too soon for me to be thinking
about this, unless I go through early menopause (according to the
Daisy Network, one per cent of women go through menopause before
the age of 40), but I’m also someone who likes to be prepared in life,
so I wanted to find out more. And after talking to members of online
perimenopausal communities while researching this story, I am glad
I did. I was surprised to hear that as well as mood swings, several
complained of aches and pains, heart palpitations, sore breasts, weight
gain, insomnia, hot flushes, night sweats and loss of libido. Of course,
the physical changes were disturbing, but it was the shared sense of
deteriorating mental health that gave the most cause for concern,
particularly for me as someone with a history of depression and
anxiety. A survey by Menopause Experts Group revealed that suicide
rates for women aged 45 to 54 have risen six per cent in 20 years.
With the right support, perhaps this could have been avoided.
The problem is that in your early forties, when you’re more than
likely also dealing with work burnout, teenage kids and lacklustre
sex, it’s easy to think any subsequent emotional issues are, well,
“normal”. Initially, one person I spoke to put this all down to her
husband being away for six months. She tried to weather the storm,
until she discovered the free community app Perry, which encouraged
her to visit a gynaecologist who confirmed her suspicions. With
proper medical care, she learnt she was not “crazy”, nor was her body
“falling apart”: she was, instead, going through perimenopause and
her symptoms, caused by declining levels of oestrogen, progesterone
and testosterone, could be effectively managed with the right help.
Not everyone’s diagnostic process is as straightforward and that’s
down to a number of things. Compared to menopause, perimenopause
is much harder to define. “Perimenopause is the stage leading up to
menopause,” says GP and menopause doctor Shahzadi Harper,
founder of The Harper Clinic and co-author of The Perimenopause
Solution, “and it can last from four to 10 years.” Secondly, there’s
104
currently no one accurate test to diagnose it. “Hormones fluctuate,”
says Harper, “so one day your test may be ‘normal’, another it may
not.” Furthermore, normal is a range and may not be optimal for
you, which is why it’s so important to recognise symptoms. As a
precaution, Sara Matthews, a consultant gynaecologist, recommends
anyone over the age of 30 take a test for a hormone called AMH.
“This is the most accurate test we have that indicates what age a
woman is likely to go through menopause. An abnormal level should
indicate that a woman should be referred to a gynaecologist.”
With conclusive tests proving evasive, it falls on us to stay
educated, which isn’t as easy as it sounds. Perimenopause is something
one only registers when knee-deep in it. And even then the topic
has been so historically neglected that accessible information remains
sparse. Most don’t realise what’s happening until it’s too late – their
lives might seem unliveable, jobs can feel unmanageable and
relationships easily spiral. Thankfully, however, things are starting to
change. A new HRT (hormone replacement therapy) tsar, Madelaine
McTernan, has been appointed to deal with UK supply issues
and a whole roster of well-known TV presenters, broadcasters and
campaigners are dedicated to revolutionising support and advice.
With a combination of understanding symptoms, talking to a
specialist and talking some more, help is at hand. So what does that
help look like? “Hormone replacement therapy is the most effective
way to treat peri/menopausal symptoms,” explains Matthews. But
not everyone can or wants to take HRT, in which case there are
SABINE VILLIARD/TRUNK ARCHIVE
plenty of alternatives. Diet, exercise and sleep hygiene are the
foundation blocks for general wellbeing. Vaginal oestrogen can help
with dryness, while cognitive behavioural therapy and antidepressants
can help manage low mood and anxiety.
But it all starts with education. “Our challenge is to educate other
women, men, children, doctors and employers about [peri]menopause,”
says Matthews. “Let’s make a change so that both ourselves and the
next generation get the help they need when they need it.”
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109
 FASHION &
FEATURES
HAIR: ORLANDO PITA. MAKE-UP: FRANCELLE DALY. NAILS: MEGUMI YAMAMOTO
PHOTOGRAPH: CRAIG McDEAN. FASHION EDITOR: GRACE CODDINGTON.

Selena Forrest wears leather jacket, cashmere

sweater, satin camisole, leather trousers, leather
belts, satin shorts, and leather boots, MIU MIU
 Photographs by MERT
ALAS & MARCUS
PIGGOTT. Styling by
EDWARD ENNINFUL

Hair: EUGENE
SOULEIMAN. Make-up:
ISAMAYA FFRENCH.
Nails: ADAM SLEE.
Production: JANUARY
PRODUCTIONS. Digital
artwork: DREAMER
POSTPRODUCTION.
With thanks to Vogue
entertainment director-at-
large JILL DEMLING

112
 As the UK CELEBRATES
50 years of PRIDE, 12
LGBTQ+ creatives from
across the fields of
FASHION, the arts and
activism COME together
to share how they are
REDEFINING their
landscapes – and ours.
From NEWLY crowned award
winners to ESTABLISHED
runway stars, agitators
to artists, author PARIS LEES
introduces us to the children of
the GENDER REVOLUTION,
who are on a
MISSION to
carve out HAPPINESS,
RESPECT and
CYNTHIA WEARS JACKET, LOUIS VUITTON

representation in a
WORLD that is not
always ON SIDE
113
 riana DeBose is all smiles as we sit down with a coffee, in a photo
studio bustling with people, on one of London’s first warm
weekends of the year. And who can blame her? After all, she
recently won her first Oscar, for best supporting actress, for her
role in Steven Spielberg’s West Side Story. “This type of success is
something you dream about,” she says, “but also the visibility it’s
brought has given me an opportunity to speak up for all the things
I believe in, as well as the communities I’m a part of.” There’s a
frisson of excitement in the air – and rightly so. Today, Ariana is
one of 12 change-makers in the lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender
and queer community who are coming together to be celebrated
on the cover of British Vogue. Nearby, Cara Delevingne is chatting
away like every cool girl you’ve ever met in a club toilet, wolfing
down scrambled eggs with decidedly punk energy. It may not be
Cara’s first time at the rodeo, but it could be the most meaningful.
“I arrived today with a very different sense of elatedness,” she tells
me, between mouthfuls. “It’s so different and it’s so nice.”
It’s certainly a breath of fresh air from the news cycle. In 2022,
it feels like every day there’s a new assault on the LGBTQ+
community’s hard-won rights, women’s rights and human rights in
general. “I thought it was moving forwards and then you get Donald
Trump in the mix and then there’s another swing back,” says Jordan
Barrett, the 6ft 2in Australian model who was born to grace front
covers. In the United States, Republican lawmakers want to stop
LGBTQ+ issues being discussed in schools, known as the “Don’t
Say Gay” bill. It echoes Britain’s Section 28, brought in by Margaret
Thatcher’s government to ban the “promotion of homosexuality in
schools”. It was repealed in 2003, and David Cameron later apologised
for it, but the damage had been done. Section 28 scared teachers
into silence, but it didn’t stop kids from calling me gay and every
other homophobic insult under the sun. Trans man Nathan Westling
has modelled for Marc Jacobs, Saint Laurent and Celine, to name
a few, but the bullying he faced at school still affects him to this
day: “I’m definitely in therapy for it, but it’s made me stronger as a
person, I think. Tougher skin. Especially being trans, you need that.”
Indeed, most people I spoke to said they felt traumatised by
their childhoods and everyone says they lacked the representation
they needed growing up, that there was no one in the public eye
114
they could point to and say, “That person is like me.” Actor and
multidisciplinary artist Cameron Lee Phan is part of a tight-knit
group of LGBTQ+ friends in New York now, but says they would
“never have known they existed if I had just watched television
growing up in Texas”. Drag artist Gottmik (Kade Gottlieb) was
the first trans man to compete on RuPaul’s Drag Race, a far cry
from his childhood: “I’m from a really Catholic, conservative family.
I was very lucky to be into fashion at a young age, so I was obsessed
with Alexander McQueen and John Galliano and all these amazing
visual people who told stories through their art.”
The only trans people I saw in the media growing up were
presented as objects of ridicule, pity or disgust. As a student in
2009, I picked up a copy of The Guardian that featured a comment
piece by Germaine Greer. She was discussing Caster Semenya, the
South African Olympic hopeful who had faced questions over her
gender. It would later be reported that Caster has an intersex
condition, in which people display a mix of sex characteristics that
do not fit typical binary notions of male or female bodies. Greer
wrote: “Nowadays we are all likely to meet people who think they
are women… who seem to us to be some kind of ghastly parody…
Other delusions may be challenged, but not a man’s delusion that
he is female.” I will never forget how that made me feel. Clearly, I
wasn’t included in that “we”. I felt excluded, disappointed, alone.
“I had to go to the library to learn about what [being LGBTQ+]
even meant, because it was not my community at all,” says model
Aweng Chuol. She was born in Kenya, after her family fled the
Second Sudanese Civil War, before eventually settling in Australia.
She’s enthusiastic about books, finding stories of people like her
for the first time in a library as a teenager. “Movies, covers, art, all
of this is important to open people’s minds up.” I ask her what it
felt like to read stories of other LGBTQ+ people for the first time.
“I felt robbed. Robbed of freedom, robbed of spaces, tables I could’ve
been a part of, experiences I could’ve experienced.” And now?
“Now? Now I’m free as a bird!”
It’s easy to forget how much has changed. An older friend of
mine tells me that seeing the way April Ashley and Caroline Cossey
were treated in the 1970s and 1980s kept her in the closet for years.
It wasn’t until she was in her fifties that she finally felt able to >
 CARA DELEVINGNE
29, actor & model
If you could send your younger self
a message, what would it be?
Accept yourself, good and bad.
Just to take yourself as you are.
What is one of the most joyful
things about being part of the
LGBTQ+ community?
The moments you have and the
connections you make. Family is
important, but that community
is more than family. No matter
where you’re from, no matter who
you are, no matter what age you
are, that community means more
to you than you’ll ever understand.

Chrome corset,
MANUEL ALBARRAN, at
The Residency Experience.
Gold, diamond, mother-of-pearl
and onyx ring and gold
and diamond band,
DIOR JOAILLERIE

115
 CYNTHIA ERIVO
35, actor, singer & producer
What is the importance of
representation to you, in your
industry and the world at large?
If you don’t see yourself in
someone else, you don’t know that
the things you want to achieve
are possible. By being able to do
the things I’m able to do, I know
that someone, somewhere, sees
what I can do and then says to
themselves, “I can do that too.”
Where did you first find
your people?
I always felt slightly out of place
when I was at school. Strangely
enough, I felt like I found my
people when I came to New York
to do The Color Purple by Alice
Walker, the original work about a
young queer woman who is just
trying to find her voice.

Leather jacket, cotton shirt, silk tie,

and corduroy and leather trousers,
LOUIS VUITTON. Satin
sandals, EVANGELIE
SMYRNIOTAKI & SERGIO
ROSSI. Jewellery, Cynthia’s own.
Hair: EARL SIMMS.
Make-up: GISELLE ALI

116
transition, terrified of facing similar ostracism. Cossey was the
stunning Bond girl who was outed as trans by the News of the World
in 1981, an event that left her suicidal. Her story mirrors that of
model April Ashley in the 1950s, whose pictures appeared in none
other than British Vogue. Her career ended when she was outed as
trans by the Sunday People in 1961. No wonder Tracey “Africa”
Norman – whose face appeared on boxes of Clairol in the 1970s
– wanted to keep her trans status secret. It wasn’t long before her
career, too, was sabotaged. At a photoshoot in 1980, someone started
asking questions about her past. The shoot was cancelled and the
photos were never published. Her work dried up overnight.
But while fashion hasn’t always been a welcoming industry for
the LGBTQ+ community, many of us have used fashion as a way
to feel powerful. “I’m on a film shoot at the moment, so I’m not
able to have the talons I usually have,” says the multi-award-winning
actor, singer and producer Cynthia Erivo, as she flashes her silver
finger jewellery. “It’s like they’ve replaced them and I have my
armour back.” It took her a long time to share that she is bisexual
and she says many LGBTQ+ people “still feel the need to be
constantly justifying why we deserve to be treated as equal beings,
when really the only difference is that we love differently and we
express ourselves differently. Rather than being chastised for that,
we should be commended for being brave. That’s the most important
thing: giving people the space to show up fully as who they are.”
Spoken-word poet, model and trans-visibility activist Kai-Isaiah
Jamal agrees fashion can be a source of strength. “This morning I
felt super dysphoric, and I put on a pair of Timberlands and suddenly
I’m like, ‘All right, cool. I’m back in myself.’” But they also point
out that the clothing we wear is often the reason we are targeted
in the first place, so that armour is a double-edged sword. Although
Jordan says he’s always been “really lucky with the people I’ve had
around me”, he’s heard people make homophobic comments about
others. “I’ve always thought, in those situations, that it looks like
it’s happening out of the insecurity of the person making the
comments. Because, for me, I can’t understand what it is, like why
does it bother you?” He’s similarly confused by transphobia. “To
me it’s disgusting… And I don’t really get why people have to
explain themselves. Some people think they deserve an explanation,
like, ‘We’re owed this from you’ and they’re not.” Does Kai-Isaiah
feel safe as a nonbinary person of colour? “In my house? Yeah. With
friends? Yeah. By myself on a street at 10 o’clock at night? Not a
lot of the time, no.” Cameron agrees, especially when holding hands
with another man: “Even in New York City…”
Are we really liberated if we don’t even feel safe to walk down
the street? As a trans woman, I can tell you that Britain feels
increasingly hostile. Hate crimes are rising and while that can
partly be explained by people feeling more willing to report such
incidents, it’s not the whole story. This year, the UK dropped down
the European ranks for LGBTQ+ equality, moving to 14th place
– down from 10th last year. That’s according to the annual “Rainbow
Map”, produced by the International Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual, Trans
and Intersex Association, which ranks countries in Europe based
on laws and policies that impact on LGBTQ+ people’s lives. In
2015, the UK came first. The report’s authors say much of that
drop is down to rising transphobia.
It’s a global problem, though. “Brazil is the country with the
highest rate of transgender murders in the world. A lot of people
outside Brazil imagine like, ‘Oh, it’s Brazil… It’s so diverse,’ but
there is still a lot of prejudice,” says Valentina Sampaio, who in 2017
made waves as the first trans model to appear on Vogue Paris’s cover,
and in 2020 as the first trans woman to star on the cover of the Sports
Illustrated Swimsuit Issue. She is every bit as beautiful in real life as
in her photos. I ask her what superpower she’d like to have: “To
plant the seed of love, acceptance and hope in people.” Nonbinary
creative Sheerah Ravindren says they would like to have the power
of manipulation. “If I can manipulate these politicians who change
“I’m very AWARE of the
IMPORTANCE of allyship
right now,” says Ariana
DeBose. “I don’t believe
this is a FIGHT we can
WIN on our own”
these oppressive laws that affect marginalised communities, that
would be a cool power.” As Gottmik adds: “In the US, there’s so
many laws that are fighting against not only trans people, just gay
people and queer people in general. And it’s so insane, because we
are not going anywhere. Just because you’re trying to pass laws, some
kids are still going to be queer no matter what you do.”
A few years ago, I tweeted my fears that the British government
might try to force trans women to use men’s toilets. People told
me I was being hysterical. Earlier this year, I woke up to the
following headline: “Trans women can be banned from single-sex
changing rooms and toilets, watchdog finds”. That watchdog is
the so-called Equality and Human Rights Commission, a public
body that, in theory, is supposed to uphold human rights. Trans
women have been using female facilities for decades without it
ever being a problem. I don’t even know if I want to stay in the
UK. “This is kind of where I’m at,” agrees Kai-Isaiah, “especially
as a transgender-fluid person and being in a place of not wanting
to adhere or conform, but also wanting to survive.”
Model, activist, author and host of podcast The Way We Are
Munroe Bergdorf says it helps to be reminded that the government
doesn’t represent the people on various issues: “I feel very hopeless
about the structure of government and how easily people can get
into power.” She likens the current backlash to trans rights to the
hostility gay people faced in the 1980s. “I’ve got to hope things can
change. I do think that as awful as things are now politically, the
consciousness of the country is heading in the right way.”
I hope she’s right. But with trans people estimated to make up
less than one per cent of the population, we’re not going to do it
alone. “I’m very aware of the importance of allyship right now,” says
Ariana. “I don’t believe this is a fight we can win on our own.
Historically, any time we’ve made gains as a community is because
we’ve had the support of others. And this is the time, because if
they’re going to come after my rights, one way or another they’re
coming for yours too.” Jordan says we need people in positions of
power to implement policies to support the LGBTQ+ community.
“But it’s not just LGBTQ+ people that we protect, but all vulnerable
people and those with disabilities and mental health conditions.”
“People who want to help but don’t know what to do need to
find their queer family and sit and chat with them,” says Cynthia,
adding that understanding someone’s experience is the first step.
“Trans rights, women’s rights, they’re all human rights,” says Cara.
“This isn’t about, ‘Oh, it’s not my job because I’m not part of the
community.’ It’s all of our jobs to stand up for each other.” She’s right.
We need each other. We know there’s a backlash, but it’s a reaction
to the genuine progress we’ve made. We know we’re stronger together,
that we have more in common than that which divides us. That’s
why we want everyone to be included in “we”. We’re living through
a revolution in the way society thinks about sex and gender. We are
the future. We are the children of the revolution. Are you with us?
117
 ARIANA DeBOSE
31, actor, singer & dancer
If you could send a message to your
younger self, what would it be?
I would tell her that she’s not
crazy. The way that you love,
who you love, how you love, it
makes you special – it is your
superpower. And never let anyone
take that away from you.
What are the most urgent changes
that need to happen right now
to make the world safer, more
welcoming for LGBTQ+ people?
We cannot create change on our
own. I don’t think there are many
communities in the world that
can create change effectively by
themselves. This really has to be
a global effort. So when you see
something, say something. Write
to your government officials about
how you would want to be treated
in the world, because if you
wouldn’t want it to happen to you,
I can tell you something: we don’t
want it to happen to us.

Organic-cotton vest,
COLORFUL STANDARD.
Leather skort, DIOR. Acrylic belt,
GRAHAM CRUZ. Gold
earrings, SLIM BARRETT

118
 JORDAN BARRETT
25, model
What is the importance of
representation in your industry
and the world at large?
I think it’s extremely important, but
being seen and recognised isn’t
enough. We could be doing more
in schools and in workplaces –
there’s a lot more to get done.
What are the most urgent changes
that need to be made right now?
More LGBTQ+ people in
positions of power.

Wool-mix sweater, GUCCI.

Chrome corset, MANUEL
ALBARRAN, at The Residency
Experience. Centipede cuff,
COSTUME THERAPY

119
 AWENG CHUOL
23, model
Where did you first find
your people?
In films such as Paris Is Burning, in
drag shows and music and art.
What book would you recommend
to a person on the journey to
figuring themselves out?
The Alchemist by Paulo Coelho.
It’s a book everyone needs to
read at least once.

Corset dress with rhinestone

embellishment, SCHIAPARELLI

120
MUNROE BERGDORF
35, activist, model & author
As a trans person, what is your
greatest wish for the future?
More understanding, because
I think more understanding will
lead to better allyship, tangible
change and, ultimately, progress.
We need all of the allyship that we
can have and that we can get.
What are you most proud
of achieving?
Living life on my own terms.

Crinoline jumpsuit, ALAIA. Coiled

cuffs, PEBBLE LONDON

121
 KAI-ISAIAH JAMAL
26, poet, model &
trans visibility activist
What are the most joyful
things about being part
of the LGBTQ+ community?
I think there’s so many places
in the world in which differences
create separation or segregation.
It’s really beautiful to exist within
something in which your differences
are what brings everyone together.
Can you share your
coming-out story?
I kind of reject the notion of
coming out because I don’t really
see why we have to, unless it’s
something we find important for
ourselves. My coming out to the
world wasn’t as important as my
coming out to myself.

Cubic zirconia choker, DAPHINE.

Gold and diamond Juste un
Clou necklaces, CARTIER. Gold
spiral pendant necklaces set with
diamonds, BULGARI.
Gold-plated large chain necklace
with pendant, ALIGHIERI.
Earring, Kai-Isaiah’s own

122
SHEERAH
RAVINDREN
26, model & creative
If you could send a message to your
younger self, what would it say?
Stay angry. People look at anger
as if it’s a bad emotional feeling
to have, but it’s my anger that
has got me here today, to want
to make the changes and do the
things that I do right now with
my platform.
Who did you look up to when you
were growing up?
I think a lot of the people I looked
up to were individuals such as
Prince and Janelle Monáe. It was
amazing to see people that could
navigate between masculinity
and femininity and everything
in-between. Queer-coded cartoon
characters are also huge for
me. I really like “Him” from The
Powerpuff Girls.

Mesh body, SAVAGE & FENTY.

Corset belt, GRAHAM CRUZ.
Satin sandals, EVANGELIE
SMYRNIOTAKI & SERGIO
ROSSI. Pendant necklace with
popcorn chain, ALIGHIERI. All
other jewellery, Sheerah’s own

123
 VALENTINA
SAMPAIO
27, model
If you could send a message to your
younger self, what would it say?
You did it. Because despite some
humiliating and traumatising
experiences, you never gave up.
It feels good to know that I never
lost hope and faith in myself.
When did you come out?
I’ve always known that I am
Valentina and I always live as
my true self. For me there was no
moment of coming out other than
the day I was born.

Crêpe bra top and crêpe

shorts, VALENTINO

124
 GOTTMIK
25, drag artist
If you could send a message to your
younger self, what would it say?
Trust your gut. No one knows who
you are better than yourself. And
just because you don’t really see
people like you, you’re 100 per
cent valid. It’s going to work out
and it’s going to be amazing.
If you could give a piece of advice to
anyone starting on the transitioning
journey, what would it be?
Find people around you that love
you no matter what. There are times
when you might think that you
might be crazy, but being open
and honest with yourself is going to
inspire so many people one day.
You just have to see that light at the
end of the tunnel.

Leather jacket and trousers,

ALEXANDER McQUEEN.
Headpiece and collar,
MANUEL ALBARRAN,
at The Residency Experience

125
 CAMERON
LEE PHAN
28, actor &
multidisciplinary artist
Which queer people do you find
inspiring right now?
The people that are more or less in
my closest circle. They’re my
friends in New York; they’re the
people moving in from Texas and
living in a new city. It’s not always
people on pedestals or huge
public figures.
What book would you recommend
to a person on the journey to
figuring out their identity?
Nevada by Imogen Binnie – a
beautiful exploration of identity
and gender. That book changed
my world.

Wool vest top, CHLOE. Arm

cuff, MANUEL ALBARRAN,
at The Residency Experience

126
NATHAN WESTLING
26, model
What are the most urgent changes
that need to happen right
now to make the world a safer
place for LGBTQ+ people?
Education. You can’t push a
movement without education.
If you could give a piece of
advice to those beginning
their transitioning journey,
what would it be?
Take it slow, because it seems like
overnight you go from your old
self to the self that you want.
I wish somebody would have
told me to just slow down and
take every moment as it comes.

Wool jacket, DIOR. Wool trousers,

BOTTEGA VENETA.
For stockists, all pages, see
Vogue Information

127
 CITY
TRANSFER

NEXT STOP: AUTUMN/WINTER 2022,

where updated tailoring, tones and proportions
signal the SEASON’S incoming MOOD.
Photographs: CRAIG McDEAN.
Fashion editor: GRACE CODDINGTON
128
There’ll be no stopping you
in Alexander McQueen’s
voluminous gown. On your
marks, get set, strut.

Faille dress and

patent-leather boots,
ALEXANDER
McQUEEN
129
 Sitting pretty. Metropolitan
elegance equates to
Givenchy’s cascading
dress, bolstered by
Miu Miu’s biker boots.

Wool blazer and ruffle

slip dress, GIVENCHY.
Cashmere/wool socks and
leather boots, MIU MIU.
Jewellery, model’s own
130
 Glamour to go. Your
morning coffee run calls for
cosy cappuccino colours.
Maison Margiela
provides an extra shot.

Wool coat, wool cardigan,

tulle dress, latex socks,
and rubber shoes,
MAISON MARGIELA.
Headscarf, stylist’s own

131
 Make a move – the tones of
Junya Watanabe’s spliced
and diced pieces will take
you on a quilt trip.

Patchwork leather dress,

JUNYA WATANABE,
at Dover Street Market. Silk
rollneck, THE ROW.
Leather boots, JIMMY
CHOO. Headscarf, as before

132
Louis Vuitton’s sleek
striped tailoring and
tie signals power-
woman perfection.

Leather jacket, cotton shirt,

silk tie, wool trousers, and
open-back leather trainers,
LOUIS VUITTON
133
 Style comes out of
the shadows, mixing Miu
Miu’s worn leathers
with preppy separates.

Leather jacket, cashmere

cardigan, cotton shirt, wool
skirt, leather belts, cashmere/
wool socks, and leather
loafers, MIU MIU.
Jewellery, as before

134
 How to handle daily
grind and grit?
Introducing Balenciaga’s
refuse-inspired sack.

Stretch-wool sweater
and skirt, silver-plated
earrings, and leather bag,
BALENCIAGA. Boots and
headscarf, as before
135
 On the eyes? A striking
black commanding
attention. For intense
payoff, use the pigmented
Lancôme Drama Liquid
Pencil Eyeliner, £23.

Tailored cocoon coat,

satin-crêpe and lace dress,
earrings and hammered-
metal bangles, SAINT
LAURENT BY
ANTHONY
VACCARELLO. Boots
and headscarf, as before
136
You’ll achieve style success
in any postcode with
Prada’s bowling bag and
Mary Jane wedge heel.

Wool jacket, cotton vest top,

wool skirt with metal-mesh
detail, silk shorts, leather
Mary Janes, and leather bag,
PRADA. Jewellery, as before

137
 Marc Jacobs reminds us
he’s the gatekeeper of
grown-up grunge.
His sweeping cargo
skirt is pound-the-
pavement ready.

Banded jersey top

and cotton-mix skirt,
MARC JACOBS.
Headscarf, as before
138
Swap the slog of the daily
commute for something
surrealist with Loewe’s
bag-inspired boots.

Leather dress and nubuck

wedge boots, LOEWE.
Jewellery, as before.
For stockists, all pages, see
Vogue Information.
Hair: ORLANDO PITA.
Make-up: FRANCELLE
DALY. Nails: MEGUMI
YAMAMOTO. Production:
PRODN. Models: SELENA
FORREST, JULIA
NOBIS. Digital artwork:
GLOSS STUDIO

139
How best to play out a
sense of Sevillian drama?
With a cordobés-style
hat atop black frills
and a red cape.

This page: embroidered

wool/cashmere cape, cotton
blouse and wool hat.

A flounced flamenco
skirt appears more
workaday than frivolous
when the shirt boasts
sleeves rolled up.

Opposite: silk blouse,

embroidered tulle skirt,
leather belt with fan, leather
shoes with detachable chaps,
hat, and jewellery. Clothes,
accessories and jewellery
(throughout), DIOR
SEVILLE
LIBERTIES

Taking the reins in SPAIN calls for anything

but plain, as DIOR commands attention
in free-spirited finery for CRUISE ’23.
Photographs by DAVID GOMEZ-MAESTRE.
Styling by BEATRIZ MACHADO

141
 Dior’s interpretation of the theatrical matador jacket and high-waisted
trousers elevates it from costume to couture-level.

Embroidered wool/silk jacket, embroidered wool/silk waistcoat,

silk blouse, cotton-gaberdine trousers, fan, and ring

142
If you’re looking to semaphore power, romance and femininity,
circle in on black lace and taffeta.

Lace jacket, silk-taffeta skirt, and jewellery

143
 Saddle up: Maria Grazia Chiuri applies an equestrian
approach to the basics.

Embroidered cotton jacket, cotton blouse with detachable collar,

cotton jodhpurs, leather boots, and whip

144
 No one will ever question
the nobility – nor the
skilled craftsmanship – of
Dior’s embroidered tulle
ensemble in deep red.

Coat, dress, leather belt,

fan, shoes with detachable
chaps, and jewellery.
For stockist, all pages,
see Vogue Information.
Hair and make-up:
EGON CRIVILLERS.
Production: ANOTHER
AGENCY. Model: GRACE
VALENTINE. With thanks
to JAVIER MENACHO
and YEGUADA
PEPE TORRES
 “I felt like Dorothy in
The Wizard of Oz,” says
Keke Palmer. “Everything
that I was dreaming was
actually happening.”

Embellished silk dress,

BLUMARINE. Jacquard
sandals, DSQUARED2.
Silver-plated earrings,
silver-plated cuff, and
silver-plated ring,
JENNIFER FISHER

INTO
THE LIGHT
As she takes THE LEAD in Jordan Peele’s
latest project, the rise of actor, advocate and
social media sensation KEKE PALMER
is complete, says CARINA CHOCANO.
Photographs by GREG WILLIAMS.
Styling by LAW ROACH
146
think everybody has at least two evolutions in their career,” says
Keke Palmer, sitting at the kitchen table in her house in Los
Angeles, casual in braids, glasses, an oversized T-shirt and light-
coloured sweatpants. “But a child actor has three. One where
they’re a kid, one where they’re an adult, and then the reinvention.”
Palmer, 28, has leant into reinvention more than most. She
started acting as a 10-year-old, when she was cast as Queen
Latifah’s niece in Barbershop 2: Back in Business, but since then
she has been a singer-songwriter, a comedian, a talk-show host,
an internet sensation, an activist and an author. Perhaps best
known in the US for her role in 2006’s Akeelah and the Bee, she
has gained a reputation for her exuberant sense of humour,
authenticity, groundedness and candour.
Her easy ability to connect with her audience has been a huge
part of Keke’s success (in 2019 she was named one of Time
magazine’s 100 Next, a list of “rising stars who will change the
world”). “I always felt like only people our age know what we’re
going through, so maybe we should talk to each other,” she says
in her fast-paced Illinois accent of using her social media – she
has 11 million Instagram followers and counting – to express
another side of herself. “I started to see that other people were
dealing with the same things, and I thought to myself, ‘Man, if
people think I’m living a perfect life, and they can see that I’m not
happy all the time, it might do some good.’”
Her house – nice, but nondescript, on a quiet cul-de-sac in
LA – seems to speak to that other, introspective side. When
I arrive one Sunday morning, the shades are drawn and she’s in a
more subdued mood than she was the previous day, when I met
her on set for her Vogue shoot. Dressed in a skin-tight, thigh-
skimming Theophilio minidress, Palmer quite literally stopped
traffic as she posed in the back seat of a bronze 1970 Ford Maverick
outside an iconic mid-century building in West Hollywood,
cracking jokes between shots as the sun went down.
But then, there’s been a lot to take up her energy. Lately,
she seems to be everywhere. There are the movies – most recently
her titular role in Krystin Ver Linden’s revenge thriller Alice, about
an enslaved woman who escapes a Georgia plantation only to
discover it’s actually 1973, and Disney and Pixar’s Lightyear, in
which she voiced Izzy Hawthorne – as well as television (Palmer
is a judge on HBO’s Legendary, where members of the ballroom
community showcase their voguing talents). Not to mention her
role in the cult animated Netflix show Human Resources or the
web series and appearances on university campuses (she is on the
college lecture circuit, inspiring young people to aim high).
And there’s still so much more to come. This month, she is set
to break through in a way like never before, when she stars opposite
Oscar-winner Daniel Kaluuya in Jordan Peele’s feverishly anticipated
Nope. At the time of writing, details of the plot are shrouded in
secrecy. We just know that Palmer’s character is the great-great-
great-granddaughter of the Black man riding the horse in Eadweard
Muybridge’s 1878 series of photographs The Horse in Motion. In the
film, she is carrying on the legacy of the only Black-owned horse-
training business in Hollywood when something happens – an
unexplained phenomenon that’s “the opposite of a miracle”.
Palmer remains tight-lipped on the plot – she’ll only say that
working with Peele was an inspiring experience. But it seems like
a culmination of sorts for an actor who previously starred in both
the television reboot of Scream and Ryan Murphy’s Scream Queens.
Horror, like comedy, disarms people and subverts their expectations,
creating space for conversations and helping people see things in
new ways without getting their defences up. “I think a really good
horror movie is like a masterpiece,” Palmer says, “if it’s done right.”
Meanwhile, she is working on her directorial debut Big Boss,
a documentary that will tell the story of her experiences in the
music industry, and will accompany an album of the same name.
Palmer describes the record as “a collection of different vibes” that
represent who she is as a woman coming into herself. Among the
songs is a re-do of her viral hit “Bottoms Up”, which she co-wrote
with her sister Loreal and which has been updated from a middle-
school anthem to a grown-up party song. It is, she says, a kiss-off
to societal gender norms and the patriarchy. “You feel shamed by
being a boss – especially as a female,” she says. “It’s like, only a
man is allowed to have the kind of attributes that I have.”
Palmer grew up in Chicago, the second of four children. Her
mum was a schoolteacher and her dad worked at a manufacturing
plant. Both were active in community theatre, and Palmer had
been cast in a commercial, but not much else. When a family
friend suggested Palmer try out for Barbershop 2, her mother
taped her audition and sent it in. She landed the part, and friends
encouraged the family to go to Los Angeles.
It was a moonshot. “I had two-year-old twins,” Palmer’s mother,
Sharon, who is visiting from Chicago, tells me on the set of the
photoshoot. (Her older sister Loreal is also there.) The family is
close, having banded together to support Palmer’s career > 150
147
 Viscose dress, ETRO.
Gold-plated hoops and
gold-plated bracelets,
JENNIFER FISHER

148
“If I MAKE others
LAUGH, I FEEL
GOOD. That’s
ENOUGH for
me to get through
the day”

Macramé dress, CHLOE.

Rose-gold, peridot, topaz,
rubellite and diamond
necklace and rose-gold,
rubellite and diamond
ring, BULGARI

149

years ago. “Loreal was 15 and Keke was 10. We put a potty chair
in the car and potty-trained the twins all the way here. Four days
in a minivan.” In California, the family moved into a hotel room
and stayed there for two months, waiting for Barbershop 2 to come
out. Palmer got an agent and landed some roles, but it wasn’t always
clear how long the family would be able to hold out.
“I felt like Dorothy [in The Wizard of Oz], honestly,” Palmer
says, recalling that time. “I felt like me and my family were following
the yellow brick road. Everything that I was dreaming was actually
happening. You know, as a child, everything is like a fairy tale to
you, everything is so magical. I remember riding in the car, and
when we got there, it was everything I wanted. We were all together
as a family. I was doing something that I loved. My parents were
supporting me. They believed in me. I had no worries.”
And yet, it wasn’t a straightforward journey. “I did a lot of
praying,” Sharon tells me. “Sometimes I would doubt my decision
of coming out here, but every time I would feel like I made the
wrong decision, I would go into the bathroom – because that
was the only place that I really had privacy – and I would kneel
by the toilet and pray.” Their family in Chicago loaned them
some money, and her father took his pension early, forfeiting
half of it in taxes. Palmer booked a commercial, and then a movie
with William H Macy, The Wool Cap, for which she was nominated
for a Sag Award alongside Charlize Theron and Hilary Swank.
She landed a Disney pilot, and then in 2006 was cast in Akeelah
and the Bee, which became a hit on DVD and is still shown in
schools. “Since then,” Sharon says, “she never has not worked.”
When Palmer landed the lead on a Nickelodeon show called
True Jackson, VP, about a 15-year-old girl who becomes the vice
president of a fashion label, the family were offered a measure of
financial security, but the protagonist’s story echoed Palmer’s feelings
of being overwhelmed by the adult world. Despite her success, Palmer
150
“You feel shamed
by being a BOSS
– it’s like, ONLY A
MAN is allowed to
have the kind
of ATTRIBUTES
that I have”
sometimes found the roles to be heavy. She lost herself in them.
Playing the lead character in a 2018 movie called Pimp took its toll.
“I think I experienced a lot of depression and anxiety,” Palmer
says matter-of-factly. “Not being able to process my emotions, having
so much responsibility at a young age…” Palmer thinks she became
really positive as a means to survive. “I realised the power of positivity
when I was fighting depression so young, before even knowing
what I was fighting. I thought, ‘Well, if I make others laugh,
I feel good. That’s enough for me to get through the day.’”
Eventually, it became apparent that Palmer had to find balance.
Comedy was a way to reinvent her career while preserving her
mental health, though this decision wasn’t fully conscious. She began
honing her improv skills and creating characters on social media
– two of the most popular being Lady Miss Jacqueline and Chelsea
“Barbie” Taylor. “Once I saw that [the public] really responded to
that character, my next response was, ‘How can I give them more?’”
This led to her successful Facebook venture, Turnt Up with the
Taylors, a satire of family-based reality TV series, which in turn
bagged Palmer her own talk show, Just Keke. In the summer of 2019,
Palmer filled in for Sara Haines on Good Morning America’s third-
hour “Strahan & Sara” segment while the anchor was on maternity
leave, and ended up being asked to stay on as a permanent host.
The show was cancelled during the pandemic, but Palmer
doesn’t sweat these things. “I follow what feels right at the time,
and I also follow where opportunities lead me,” she says. She’s
learnt to go with the flow and take what comes. “I think it’s more
comfortable, and I always arrive where I’m supposed to arrive.”
Does she truly believe that? “Yeah, I do truly believe that,” she
says. “You know, I think it has a lot to do with who I am as a
person, spiritually. Everything happens for a reason, and everything
is going to turn out the way it should. I really trust in that.”
Nope is in cinemas on 22 July
Opposite: dress,
THEOPHILIO. Jacquard
shorts, DSQUARED2.
Leather sandals,
BROTHER VELLIES.
Silver-plated earrings and
silver-plated bracelets,
JENNIFER FISHER.

This page: muslin and

lace dress, GUCCI.
Gold and diamond
earrings and gold and
diamond ring, MESSIKA.
For stockists, all pages,
see Vogue Information.
Hair: RICARDO
ROBERTS. Make-up:
JORDANA DAVID.
Nails: RILEY MIRANDA.
Production: TIGHTROPE
PRODUCTION. Digital
artwork: DTOUCH
LONDON. With thanks
to THE LONDON WEST
HOLLYWOOD AT
BEVERLY HILLS

151
 JUST
PRESS
POWER shoulders, show-stopping SHADES,
pops of sportswear… However you style it, the
DOMINANT theme this season is DRAMA.
Photographs by THUE NORGAARD.
Styling by POPPY KAIN

PLAY
152
A logoless cap is the perfect
nod to stealth luxury and
looks all the better with
Ralph Lauren’s high-
octane tailoring.

Strapless cotton top and

embellished cotton trousers,
RALPH LAUREN
COLLECTION. Leather
boots, MIU MIU. Silk
baseball cap, THE ROW,
at Mytheresa.com. Sleeper
earring and nose ring
(throughout), model’s own

153
 Gucci’s sized-up blazers demand some serious sparkle.

Wool jacket, cotton shirt, and crystal tie brooch, GUCCI

154
 “Gilt without guilt” is
Moschino’s a/w ’22
tagline and it shows.

Quilted velvet bomber

jacket, silk minidress,
leather belt, and leather
boots, MOSCHINO.
Ebony and gold earrings,
HANNAH MARTIN

155
 The Hermès woman is in
the mood for “sexiness and
sportiness” this season,
according to Nadège
Vanhee-Cybulski.

Panelled leather jacket,

wool sweater, panelled
leather miniskirt, and
hat, HERMES

156
 Valentino’s Pierpaolo
Piccioli pooled everything
that makes him feel good
into one colour: Pink PP.

Wool sweater, crêpe

skirt, and tights,
VALENTINO. Leather
boots, VALENTINO
GARAVANI

157
 Accessorise eyes with a sweep of shimmer, such as
Mac Cosmetics Eye Shadow in Sketch, £16.

Mikado minidress, EMPORIO ARMANI

158
No one does corsets like
Versace. Prepare to cinch
like Donatella does best.

Wool coat, houndstooth

jacket, silk corset top,
and belted patent-leather
trousers, VERSACE

159
 Don’t try the new
power shoulder
without consulting
Dolce & Gabbana.

Leather jacket and jersey

leggings, DOLCE &
GABBANA. Baseball
cap, as before

160
Look to Burberry for
a lesson in layering.
Joy-sparking colour
pairings welcomed.

Cotton trench coat,

jersey body, and wool
trousers with plissé skirt,
BURBERRY. Ebony and
gold earrings, as before

161
 Suits are heading out of office for autumn. Blaze a trail in brights.

Sleeveless wool-gaberdine jacket, MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION.

Ebony and gold earrings, as before

162
 Virginie Viard’s tweed-
inspired paillettes are one
part smart, two parts sassy.

Sequined tulle dress,

patent-leather slingbacks,
tweed cap, leather bag, strass
necklaces, and resin and
strass cuffs, CHANEL

163
 Soft versus hard is the
mood over at Fendi
because, says Kim Jones,
women are precisely that.

Leather jacket, silk

minidress, and leather
miniskirt, FENDI

164
 Don’t let Dior’s black
dresses fool you, Maria
Grazia Chiuri’s work
balances the highly
technical and the artisanal
to breathtaking effect.

Tulle dress and lace lingerie,

DIOR. Leather boots,
MIU MIU. White-gold,
black-diamond and pearl
earring and white-gold and
black-diamond earring,
ARA VARTANIAN.
For stockists, all pages, see
Vogue Information. Hair:
SHIORI TAKAHASHI.
Make-up: LYNSEY
ALEXANDER. Nails:
CHISATO YAMAMOTO.
Production: TOWN
PRODUCTIONS. Model:
MONA TOUGAARD

165
 Family FORTRESS
In Italy’s fashion capital, CAROLINA CASTIGLIONI matches
careful CURATION with bursts of COLOUR, discovers
TIZIANA CARDINI. Photographs by DANILO SCARPATI.
Styling by JULIA BRENARD

W
hen Carolina Castiglioni welcomes you to her new flat, in a turn-of-the-century
neoclassical building in the centre of Milan, the door opening to reveal artsy,
brightly coloured interiors, you cannot help but notice how naturally she
embodies the city’s charm, her blend of polite reserve and cultivated individuality
shrouded in sophistication. Castiglioni – at ease in her uniform of masculine
trousers and an oversized striped shirt – belongs to a tight-knit Milanese clan,
for whom an immersion in style goes hand in hand with business and a flair
for the unconventional. It’s a deep-rooted attitude passed on to Carolina from
her parents, Consuelo and Gianni Castiglioni, who in 1994 founded Marni,
which became the epitome of idiosyncratic Italian style.
This same spirit animates Plan C, the clothing line Carolina launched
in 2018, which fuses bohemian comfort, boyish volumes, bold blocks of
colour and edgy graphics. It’s present in the artists she chooses to work >

166
 SLUGREM
CAROLINA WEARS SWEATER, PLAN C. JEANS, SHOES AND JEWELLERY, HER OWN

Carolina Castiglioni in her

Milanese apartment. Opposite:
the orange-coloured dining room.
Hair and make-up:
FRANCESCO MAMMONE.
Nails: SIMONE MARINO.
Production: OLIMPIA BALLI
 Carolina’s
children, Filippo
and Margherita,
in the former’s
bedroom. Opposite:
the aubergine
drawing room

CAROLINA WEARS TROUSER SUIT, PLAN C. TRAINERS, HER OWN

The industrial-style
kitchen. Above: the
apartment’s hallway.
Right: Carolina in
the dining room
with on collaborations and in the exact rich hue of aubergine that
makes the walls of her drawing room as velvety as a jewel box. It’s
fair to say that Carolina’s eclectic style is as far from clichés of
predictable eleganza as it is a signal of devotion to offbeat melanges.
The road to a new home for herself and her two young children,
Margherita and Filippo, has been a long one. “I saw so many
apartments I’ve lost count,” she says, as light pours in from the
drawing room’s tall windows. Her dark blonde hair is straight and
neat, and her skin bears no trace of make-up. “I had very specific
requirements: our new home should have a garage and a terrace.
Our previous house had a charming green courtyard where my
children loved to play, so that seemed non-negotiable.”
As is common with the Castiglionis, the whole family soon
became involved. Her father – who’s also Plan C’s CEO – kept
pushing Carolina to consider a sprawling corner space overlooking
Milan’s Castello Sforzesco, which used to house Condé Nast’s
Italian offices. “But it didn’t have a garage or a terrace, so it was
out of the question,” Carolina says. “I wasn’t interested in the least.”
Once she agreed to pay a visit, though, it didn’t take long for
her to come around. “The moment I walked through the door,
I was enveloped in such a magical light. The view was breathtaking.
I fell in love,” she says. Garage and terrace suddenly disappeared from
the equation – who cares about cars and plants when your drawing
room looks on to the lush green of the Parco Sempione, when the
turrets of Castello Sforzesco are so close you can almost touch them?
While keeping the apartment’s layout and fixtures – including
sliding doors by the late Turinese architect and designer Toni Cordero
– Carolina approached the renovation with confidence and whimsy,
painting the walls in her favourite colours and filling the spaces
with the vintage furniture she has been collecting for years.
“I love going to flea markets with my mother,” Carolina says.
“She’s my favourite vintage shopping companion. We have the same
fascination with scouting local markets for odd finds.” Their shared
passion has found its way into the family business. In 2014, when
Carolina worked as creative director of Marni’s special projects, she
turned the Rotonda della Besana into a flower-laden bazaar, with
stalls offering everything from exotic plants to handwoven textiles.
Her new home is a carefully edited jumble of beloved finds: a
’50s Luigi Caccia Dominioni-designed Azucena black wood cabinet,
replete with metallic inlaid drawers, has pride of place in the hallway;
the curved-wood, velvet-upholstered couch and matching armchair
in the drawing room are rare 1960s pieces by Claudio Salocchi for
Sormani; and the modular stainless-steel bookcases, which frame
an artwork by Gary Hume, are hard-to-find specimens designed
in the ’60s by Vittorio Introini for Saporiti. Glass chandeliers
punctuate the rooms, one more spectacular than the other.
Carolina’s chromatic sensibility – again, a feature of her Plan C
line – is unconventional. She favours deep hues and enjoys introducing
a dissonant note to heighten their intensity. Colour ties the layout
together and gives the spaces vibrancy and cool. To enhance the
visual impact of the enfilade of three adjoining rooms – kitchen,
dining room and drawing room – she went respectively for bubblegum
pink, butterscotch yellow and silky aubergine. A soothing ocean
blue graces the walls of her bedroom, in which the imposing padded
headboard – sketched by Carolina and customised to conceal at its
back her well-stocked wardrobe – is upholstered in block-coloured
velvet, reprising the same shades seen elsewhere in the space.
Although the apartment’s visuals are layered with both
references and memories, the atmosphere is somehow soothing,
particularly when her friends are gathered round for the informal
dinner parties she likes to throw. (“But I like to eat more than I
like to cook!” she insists, with a laugh.) Her favourite dishes are
traditional Milanese, particularly a vitello tonnato, “like the one
my paternal granny used to cook. Her handwritten book of recipes
is called ‘The Bible’ and it has been passed on down through the
family. We all still cook following her instructions.”
169
 EXPECTING
BETTER
For too long, the subject of MISCARRIAGE has existed in
MARCUS OHLSSON/TRUNK ARCHIVE

the shadows. But now, discovers NELL FRIZZELL,

pregnancy loss is beginning to gain the proper
CARE and ATTENTION it deserves

170
remember the feeling of immediate darkness,” recalls Laura
Buckingham, 37, sitting by the window in her Kent home,
37, there was an overriding sense of bewilderment. “When I was
at my 12-week scan and the sonographer said there was no
heartbeat, I was so embarrassed not to know what was going to
I
describing her reaction to her first miscarriage – one of 11 she has
experienced to date. “It was so frightening.” For Bex Gunn, also
happen or how big the baby was at that gestation,” she explains,
speaking from her photography studio in East Sussex. “As
someone who’d already had children, I ignorantly didn’t think
miscarriage would be part of my story.”
Driven by a desire to reach out to other people who had found
themselves in that darkness, to offer comfort where so often we
find shock, sadness and incomprehension, Buckingham and Gunn
co-founded the podcast The Worst Girl Gang Ever, which has offered
guidance and solace to countless women since it launched in July
2020. In August, they are set to release a handbook (bearing the
same title as their podcast) that aims to offer practical and emotional
help to those navigating pregnancy loss. “To improve support we
need to start doing it earlier,” says Gunn. “We need to make baby
loss a part of normal conversation. It should be as well recognised
as What to Expect When You’re Expecting.”
Buckingham and Gunn are part of a growing group of women
helping to change the place of miscarriage in public consciousness.
Speaking from her home via Zoom, global health correspondent
for BBC News Tulip Mazumdar, 41, explains how her own recurrent
pregnancy losses prompted her to make the documentary
Miscarriage: The Search for Answers, which first aired earlier this
summer. She says her naivety saw her get on a plane to the Moria
refugee camp in Lesbos while having a miscarriage. “I think I was
probably in shock, but the rhetoric is always that an early loss is
just like a long period,” she explains. Had there been complications,
she says, her own life may have been at risk.
Since writing about her experience in Vogue in 2018, this August
Pippa Vosper will publish Beyond Grief: Navigating the Journey of
Pregnancy and Baby Loss, a book – which includes many personal
accounts of miscarriage, from Leandra Medine Cohen to Elizabeth
Day – inspired by the tragic loss of her son, Axel, five months into
her pregnancy in 2017. “Whether it’s four weeks, a pregnancy test or
an eight-month birth, people just want to tell you what happened,”
explains Vosper. “And there’s not much room for that in social circles.”
Meanwhile, psychotherapist Anna Hogeland’s debut novel, The Long
Answer, also published next month, explores “the ways in which women
are bound together and pulled apart by their shared and contrasting
experiences of pregnancy, abortion, miscarriage and infertility”.
It is clear the dial is shifting. A movement to bring this taboo
subject into the light is underway, but the hunger for answers is
still as strong as the need for support. It is thought that around one
in four pregnancies ends in miscarriage, but in the UK miscarriages
are not recorded nor included in any official statistics – not only
do we not know how common they are, we often don’t know why
they happen. Just as we know more about the surface of the moon
than we do about the very bottom of the ocean, we probably know
more about photosynthesis than the workings of our wombs.
And yet, researching the causes and treatments of miscarriage
is, to put it simply, not treated as a priority. Only a small amount
of funding gets allocated to pregnancy research, which means there
is little incentive for clinicians to become biomedical academics
and study these fundamental processes. Despite this, researchers,
such as Jan Brosens, are attempting to challenge the traditional
approach. “If you present with multiple miscarriages – and that in
itself is defined arbitrarily – you will get blood tests and they will
measure clotting abnormalities, hormonal imbalances, antibodies,
autoimmune disorders, vitamin deficiency, you name it,” he explains
from his office at the University of Warwick, where he is professor
of obstetrics and gynaecology, “all in the belief that if you find
something out of kilter in the patient, you can give them a pill and
all will be well. We have done this year in, year out – decade in,
decade out – and there is no data that these tests have value in
terms of predicting the likelihood of a successful future pregnancy.
Every single clinical trial has shown that if you give a little pill, it
doesn’t make any difference whatsoever.”
Instead of looking for a cause for miscarriage in the pathology
of the patient’s body, Brosens has put forward a theory of implantation
checkpoints, that it is within the womb lining that the chances of
successful implementation are weighed. “There’s an incredible bias
when it comes to the uterus,” says Brosens, sighing. “It is still thought
of, by my colleagues, as stupid tissue that just grows with oestrogen
and prepares for pregnancy with progesterone – and that’s all you
need to know about it. That’s just so far from the truth. You look at
where we are and you have to come to the conclusion that this is
an extremely patriarchal view of female reproduction.”
So, too, are the psychological effects dangerously overlooked. A
2019 study by professor Tom Bourne and others, which surveyed
patients from three London hospitals, found that one month after
early pregnancy loss 29 per cent of people had developed some
symptoms of PTSD, while after nine months 18 per cent had some
symptoms of post-traumatic stress, 17 per cent reported anxiety and
six per cent showed signs of moderate or severe depression – thousands
of people in a state of profound psychological distress, months and
often years after their initial loss. The pregnancy-loss charity Tommy’s
has called for everyone to be screened for mental health issues and
to receive support after each miscarriage or pregnancy loss. “On the
whole, I think the attitude to miscarriages is still lamentable,” says
Brosens. “The appreciation of the long-term psychological [effects],
which are severe in patients and couples, are totally ignored.” >
171
 “We need to make baby LOSS a part of
NORMAL conversation. It should be
as well RECOGNISED as What to
Expect When You’re Expecting”
Vosper’s experience was so traumatic, so shocking, that at
times, she explains, she wanted to end her own life. “There was
a physical longing to hold something; your hands feel very
empty,” she says. Since writing about her experience, Vosper has
been struck by other parents’ desire to simply talk about the
baby or pregnancy that they lost. “It’s not that people don’t want
to listen, it’s that they don’t understand,” she explains. “It’s one
of the most difficult moments of grief to communicate, because
nobody else has experienced your baby.”
It is, says Mazumdar, “the human stuff, about how to treat and
talk to somebody going through this, [that] is often a completely
secondary consideration – if it’s considered at all by busy clinicians.
The experience of miscarriage can be very traumatic and what can
make that a hundred times worse is the care you receive.”
While researching her BBC documentary, Mazumdar heard
of people being presented with their babies in a bedpan. She, herself,
was first shown her baby, Rivah, who died in a late miscarriage, in
a little cardboard coffin-shaped box. Resources are stretched, staff
are overworked and it can be difficult in those circumstances to
allocate patients the time and attention they need. But, points out
Buckingham, kindness is not a finite resource, nor is attentive use
of language. “I think the most important thing is to go with what
the woman feels,” she explains. “If that person refers to a baby then
the health professionals should follow their lead. We did a podcast
episode with a sonographer and they had no specific training on
how to talk to or care for someone while they’re scanning them.”
This year in Birmingham, £3 million has been raised to create
a specialist baby-loss bereavement centre to provide support to
the approximately 2,000 families who experience pregnancy or
baby loss at the local hospital each year. Woodland House, with
its counselling rooms, a family room and private garden, is a
physical manifestation of what so many grieving parents and
parents-to-be already know: that recovery takes a long time and
a lot of work. And yet, in the UK, people who have lost a
pregnancy before 24 weeks aren’t officially entitled to specific
leave. While New Zealand brought in bereavement leave for
miscarriages and stillbirths in 2021, British people are still caught
between asking their employer for compassionate leave, sick leave
or even, in some cases, holiday. The Scottish MP Angela Crawley
is trying to change that. Earlier this year she put forward a bill
demanding a minimum of three days paid leave for anyone
following miscarriage or pregnancy loss at 24 weeks.
“There will be employers that go above and beyond, and may
have more comprehensive compassionate policies in place,” she
explains over the phone from parliament, “but the majority of the
economy is made up of small and medium-sized enterprises and
those small businesses and organisations need that leadership from
government.” There was also, explains Crawley, who became a
172
parent last year, a desire to have miscarriage recognised and
discussed in the halls of power. “On a human level, I also wanted
to put it forward as a female, as a parent, because so many people
experience it and there is a real stigma to discussing miscarriage.
I wanted to put it on the statute.”
There is another element of reproductive health that is, finally,
being discussed more widely: race. We know that Black and Asian
women in the UK are more likely to die in childbirth and experience
stillbirth, and research published last year revealed that Black
women are also at a 43 per cent higher risk of miscarriage than
white women. Previously, we looked for a biological or medical
reason for this, rather than critiquing the way people from those
communities are treated, listened to and communicated within the
health system. But in the words of the Birthrights inquiry, the
problem is “systemic racism, not broken bodies”.
“I’ve heard of cases of people coming in with extra discharge
and being told it’s fine, when actually their cervix should have
been checked and maybe some intervention could have occurred,”
explains consultant obstetrician and gynaecologist Karen Joash.
“With people of an ethnic background, there is also a fear that if
you speak out against the system, you will be treated worse and
so people are reluctant to assert their rights.” Joash also confirms
that we know people of colour are more likely to have their children
taken away and less likely to be paired with a psychotherapist that
meets their needs, which doesn’t only prohibit them from engaging
with medical services when they have concerns, but will also impact
their access to mental health support after pregnancy loss. “When
it comes to miscarriage in the later part of pregnancy, there are
definitely things that can be picked up,” says Joash. “The history
of risk factors, making sure they’ve been properly risk assessed
and, when they do present with symptoms, making sure they’re
not dismissed.” Joash adds that better education about early signs
of miscarriage – feeling pressure in the vagina, increase in watery
discharge, any blood loss – should be taught to everyone more
widely, before and during pregnancy.
Of course, there is no neat, simple, one-size-fits-all approach
for people experiencing pregnancy loss. Their preferred language,
when they want to go back to work, how much detail they want
to share, what mementoes they carry, all these are as varied and
unique as the person themselves. For outsiders, including medical
professionals, perhaps the wisest course is to take your lead from
the person themselves, to listen to women and to treat reproductive
health with the respect it deserves. That much, at least, is simple.
“The ripple effect of that hugely significant and visceral loss is
undeniable and we just don’t talk about it,” says Buckingham, sighing.
“But there are people who are ready with broken hearts and open
arms, ready to hold you and support you and love you until you’re
strong enough to do it for yourself again.”
 MARCUS OHLSSON/TRUNK ARCHIVE

173
 ORE
STRUCK
As BELLA HADID takes a SHINE to the season’s
mightiest metallics, all roads lead to CHROME.
Photographs by ELIZAVETA PORODINA.
Styling by GABRIELLA
KAREFA-JOHNSON

174
 For out-of-this-world
wearability, circle in on
celestial accessories.

Leather dress, CHANEL.

Wool and satin skirt with
embellished tulle hem and
leather boots, PRADA.
Leather bag, VALENTINO
GARAVANI. Golden
earring, JIL SANDER BY
LUCIE & LUKE MEIER
175
 With more than a glint
of drama, Alexander
McQueen’s fluid gown
glows with the flow.

Beetled silk-taffeta
deconstructed dress with
black satin and tulle bodice,
and leather boots,
ALEXANDER
McQUEEN

176
 Have a ball: Louis
Vuitton’s party
dress will have you
throwing shapes.

Oversized T-shirt dress,

LOUIS VUITTON.
Leather boots,
COURREGES. Silver
earrings, PATRICIA
VON MUSULIN, at
Jadedjewels.com
177
 Gleam team: Bottega
Veneta’s second-skin
gloves and boots
prove polish has pull.

Sequined sheer-jersey dress,

lace slip dress, sequined
gloves, and leather boots,
BOTTEGA VENETA.
Silver-plated hoop
earring, PANCONESI.
Jewelled earring,
BRANDON HURTADO
SANDLER

178
 Triple shimmer is a
real winner, so stack
up your sparkle with
earrings, bag and slip.

Silk dress with crystal and

sequin embroidery,
GIORGIO ARMANI.
Upcycled cotton T-shirt and
patchwork mesh, satin
and silk dress (worn
underneath), COLLINA
STRADA. Leather boots,
NINA RICCI. Rhinestone
bag, BALENCIAGA.
Snake earring, PATRICIA
VON MUSULIN, at
Jadedjewels.com. Hoop
earring, COURREGES.
For stockists, all pages, see
Vogue Information.
Hair: EVANIE
FRAUSTO. Make-up:
GRACE AHN. Nails:
DAWN STERLING.
Production: PONY
PROJECTS.
Prop stylist: NICHOLAS
DES JARDINS
179
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an elegant cocktail party?
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My first Azzedine Alaïa dress.
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Virgil Abloh’s.
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The emerald ring I wore in Crazy
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Sipping cocktails on a beach in
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Tom Ford, Prada or Chanel.
Which exercise should I do
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Planking. One minute is not enough!
Name the next television series
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Under the Banner of Heaven starring
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Respect.
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