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Hum Ecol (2011) 39:351–360

DOI 10.1007/s10745-011-9395-x

Never Mind the Bottle. Archaeobotanical Evidence


of Beer-brewing in Mediterranean France
and the Consumption of Alcoholic Beverages
During the 5th Century BC
Laurent Bouby & Philippe Boissinot & Philippe Marinval

Published online: 25 May 2011


# Springer Science+Business Media, LLC 2011

Abstract This article reports on an example of early Keywords Beer . Archaeobotany . Iron Age .
archaeobotanical evidence for beer-making in Iron Age Mediterranean . Social consumption of
South-Eastern France. An archaeological sample from a alcoholic beverages
fifth century BC house at the site of Roquepertuse produced
a concentration of carbonized barley (Hordeum vulgare)
grains. The sample was taken from the floor of the Introduction
dwelling, close to a hearth and an oven. The barley grains
are predominantly sprouted and we argue that the assem- The last millennium BC was a very dynamic period
blage represents the remains of deliberate malting. Malt in the Mediterranean. Eastern civilizations, especially
was most likely related to beer-brewing. The neighboring Greeks and Phoenicians, founded many coastal colonies
oven could have been used to stop the germination process across the western Mediterranean, maintaining strong
at the desired level by drying or roasting the grain. Beer- cultural and economic relations with indigenous societies
making evidence in Roquepertuse is discussed in the (see Dietler 1997, 2007; Hodos 2006). In the French
context of the consumption of alcoholic beverages in the Mediterranean area of the Etang de Berre, Iron Age
Iron Age Western Mediterranean using archaeological and communities had intense economic relations with the
historical data. neighboring Phocean Greek colony of Massalia (modern
Marseille), a city founded around 600 BC. Numerous wine
L. Bouby (*) amphorae and Greek ceramics retrieved from indigenous
CNRS-Centre de Bio-Archéologie et d’Ecologie settlements provided strong evidence of imports from
(CBAE)-UMR 5059-Institut de Botanique,
163 Rue Auguste Broussonet,
Massalia. The indigenous counterparts to this exchange
Montpellier 34090, France are poorly known, but it is often hypothesized that
e-mail: laurent.bouby@univ-montp2.fr agricultural resources, and above all cereals, could have
played a large part in this trade (Garcia 1987, 1999; Py
P. Boissinot
EHESS-Travaux et Recherches Archéologiques sur les Cultures,
1993; Dietler 1997). New Mediterranean products, espe-
les Espaces et les Sociétés cially wine, could have had a significant cultural and
(TRACES)-UMR 5608, economic influence on indigenous societies (Dietler 1990,
39 allées Jules Guesde, 2007), but it is actually very difficult to assess exactly
Toulouse 31000, France
e-mail: philippe.boissinot@free.fr
what this might have meant for local agriculture and
alimentation.
P. Marinval Carbonized fruits and seeds preserved in archaeolog-
CNRS-Archéologie des Sociétés Méditerranéennes ical sediments are essential sources of information
(ASM)-UMR 5140,
390 avenue de Pérols,
concerning economic plants, diet and agriculture of past
Lattes 34970, France human populations (see Renfrew 1973; Zohary and Hopf
e-mail: marinval@cict.fr 2000). A major difficulty lies in the identification of the
352 Hum Ecol (2011) 39:351–360

ways in which specific plants were used. We know, for ery of stone statues of two cross-legged warriors. It is
example, that six-row barley was the main cultivated plant of located on the southwestern slope of a rocky hill
the Iron Age. The reasons for this have been the subject of a dominating the valley of the Arc River, some 15 km
number of hypotheses (e.g., Jones 1981; Marinval 1988), but west of the modern city of Aix-en-Provence (Fig. 1), and
we lack direct evidence about its uses. In this article, we 7 km east of the Etang de Berre. New excavations carried
discuss the first archaeobotanical results obtained from the out during the 1990s (Boissinot et al. 2000) largely
well-known site of Roquepertuse, which suggest that six- rejected the earlier “sanctuary hypothesis” and interpreted
row hulled barley was employed to make beer. the prestigious art and symbolic elements within the
context of the dynamics of a small hill-fort village over
a period lasting from the fifth to the early second century
Iron Age Economic Plants BC (Fig. 2).
The Iron Age occupation began during the second half of
In the Provence region of southeastern France archaeobotan- the fifth century BC with the erection of two partially rounded
ical studies have been carried out, especially on hillfort structures made of wood and clay. The presence of hearths, of
settlements excavated during the 1970s and 1980s located in an oven and of various large and small storage vessels show
the vicinity of the Etang de Berre (Marinval 1988; Bouby that both buildings were used as human habitations. They
and Marinval 2000). These results indicate that local were destroyed by fire before the end of the fifth century.
agriculture in the Late Iron Age (ca. 450–25 BC) was based The site underwent major changes around 300 BC, the
on hulled six-row barley (Hordeum vulgare) and naked most obvious being the construction of a fortification wall
wheat (Triticum aestivum/turgidum). Cereals also included made of stone, encircling a 1,300 m² surface around the
broomcorn millet (Panicum miliaceum), Italian millet (Setaria plateau. During the third century BC, the fortification wall
italica) and emmer (Triticum dicoccum). Pulses seem to have was made thicker and more monumental. Human habita-
played an important role along with cereals (Marinval 1988). tions spread outside the wall along the access path in the
Bitter vetch (Vicia ervilia), lentil (Lens culinaris) and grass small valley. It is probably at this time that the carved
pea (Lathyrus cicera/sativus) are predominant in storage cross-legged warriors and the stone portico retrieved from
places. Two oil plants, gold-of-pleasure (Camelina sativa) ancient excavations were erected in the village (Boissinot
and flax (Linum usitatissimum), were probably also cultivated.
This range of cultivated plants is largely similar to
those identified at the same time throughout the French
Mediterranean area, especially in the Languedoc region,
Luberon
on the opposite shore of the Rhône River (Marinval
1988; Buxo I Capdevila 1996; Bouby and Marinval 2000; Alpille Dur
s ance
Py and Buxo I Capdevila 2001; Alonso et al. 2007). This
agricultural pattern largely developed from a more ancient
Early Iron Age (ca. 750–450 BC) and Late Bronze Age
Rh

Coudouneu Roquepertuse
(ca. 1,400–750 BC) tradition that focused on hulled six-
ôn
e

row barley. The most striking innovation concerns the Castellan


diffusion of viticulture, at least from the beginning of the Berre
fifth century BC onwards. This can be inferred from the pond Sainte Baume
increasing frequency of grape pips and from the presence Martigues mountains
of the domesticated morphotype at most sites, particularly
in the Etang de Berre area (Marinval 1988; Bouby and Massalia
Mediterranean Sea
Marinval 2001; Bouby et al. 2006). Relations with
Phoceans from Massalia and with other Mediterranean
0 50 km
agents probably had an influence on the rapidity of the
spread of cultivated grapes, but little is known concerning
the other species and how they were culturally employed. N 500 to 1000 m asl
FRANCE 200 to 500 m asl
100 to 200 m asl
Site and Sampling 0 to 100 m asl

Roquepertuse (Velaux) has been a well-known archaeo- Fig. 1 Location map of Roquepertuse (Velaux, Bouches-du-Rhône,
logical site since the nineteenth century and the discov- France) and of the main sites mentioned in the text
Hum Ecol (2011) 39:351–360 353

A
450-400 BC 300-200 BC 225-175 BC

? ? ?
plateau plateau plateau

terrace 6 terrace 5 terrace 6 terrace 5

terrace 1
habitation A tower storage tower
habitation B terrace 1 area
cellar ?
door door
stairway fortification wall storage
B fortification wall
area
terrace 2 oven
terrace wall
Storage area
slope
Concentration of
germinated barley terrace 3
grains N
Hearth
path terrace 4 10 m
1m Oven
valley
Posthole

Fig. 2 Chronological stages of the small agglomeration of Roquepertuse (after Boissinot et al. 2000, simplified)

2004). Real or sculpted human heads were exhibited in identified, providing evidence for 19 taxa. In general,
niches carved in the pillars of the portico, in the Celtic hulled six-row barley is the most common species and is
tradition. Portico and sculpted warriors could have consti- well represented in all samples. Both dense-eared and lax-
tuted a kind of gallery of heroes. This village was the object eared six-row barley are in evidence. Naked wheat and
of a military assault during the second half of the third millets—broomcorn and Italian millet—are well repre-
century BC, when it was destroyed by fire. sented, the former in sample B and the latter in sample C,
By the end of that century, occupation was much more with both samples dated to the last period of occupation of
limited and the fortification would have lost most of its the site. A few seeds of pulses (grass pea and bitter vetch)
prestige and defensive value, becoming an isolated rural and, probably, of flax, an oil and textile plant, were
dwelling-place with substantial storage activities and proba- recovered. Fruits are represented by hazelnut and grape
bly wine production. Beyond the presence of grape pips, remains consisting of various pips and one single pedicel.
various archaeological features point to local wine produc- Grape is mentioned in all samples. Morphometric analysis
tion: a plantation pit was found close to the entry of the site, of the pips (see method in Bouby et al. 2006) allows
along with a cellar with various storage jars (dolia), clay vats identification of at least seven specimens as cultivated
that could have been used to tread grapes, and a pruning knife morphotype and three as wild morphotype. The cultivated
(Boissinot et al. in prep). This settlement was in turn subspecies is already present during the fifth century BC
violently destroyed about the end of the third or the early (sample A). Wild herbaceous plants are mostly segetal and
second century BC, as were other settlements in the area. ruderal weeds and are only reported in samples B and C
Excavations during the 1990s sampled sediment from (ca. 225–175 BC).
three archaeological contexts where macrobotanical remains The fifth century BC sample is strongly dominated by
were visible to the naked eye. These were water-sieved barley (Fig. 3). In spite of favorable conditions for the
through 2 mm and 0.5 mm meshes. One sample comes from preservation of seeds in the sediment, which was rich in
the floor of one of the fifth century BC houses, close to a ash, charcoal and generally carbonized plant material, the
hearth and an oven. The other two samples were taken from grains are corroded and highly fragmented. This fairly poor
the contents of a ceramic vessel and from a pit. Both were preservation seems rather specific to the barley grains from
located in the vicinity of two different storage areas. this sample. Conditions are therefore not suitable for a
satisfactory observation of all the morphological features of
most of the grains. However, the best-preserved specimens
Botanical Results allow the assessment that slightly more than 90% of the
grains were sprouted when carbonized (Table 1, Fig. 3) and
The density of carbonized plant remains is high in the three this is easily visible from the groove-like channel imprinted
samples (Table 1). A total of 7780 plant remains have been on the dorsal side of the grains (Fig. 4). As far as we can
354 Hum Ecol (2011) 39:351–360

Table 1 Archaeobotanical results from Roquepertuse

Sample A B C Total

Origin House floor Vessel Pit

Age (years BC) 450–400 225–175 225–175

Volume of sediment (l.) ca. 5 3 10 ca. 18


Cereals - grain
Cerealia fg. 570 600 111 1281
Hordeum vulgare (hulled) ungerminated caryopsis 10 319 199 528
germinated caryopsis 93 - - 93
caryopsis (germination undetermined) 134 - - 134
fg. 2140 838 620 3598
Panicum miliaceum caryopsis - - 464 464
fg. - - 40 40
Setaria italica caryopsis - - 802 802
fg. - - 62 62
Triticum estivum/turgidum caryopsis 3 238 5 246
underdeveloped caryopsis - 3 - 3
fg. 4 216 1 221
Triticum sp. caryopsis 2 - 1 3
fg. 16 - - 16
Cereals - chaff
Cerealia fg. glume 9 - - 9
Hordeum vulgare (hulled) lemma dense-eared 11 - - 11
lemma lax-eared - 15 2 17
Oil plants, pulses
Linum cf. usitatissimum seed - - 1 1
Lathyrus cicera/sativus seed - - 3 3
fg. - - 4 4
Vicia ervilia seed 3 4 7 14
cotyl. - - 3 3
fg. - 2 1 3
Fruits trees/Hedges, woodland margins
Corylus avellana fg. 1 - - 1
Vitis vinifera seed 12 3 - 15
fg. 5 10 8 23
pedicel - - 1 1
Segetal weeds
Asperula arvensis seed - - 1 1
Bupleurum lancifolium/rotundifolium seed - - 3 3
fg. - - 1 1
Lolium temulentum caryopsis - 7 5 12
fg. - 1 1 2
Vaccaria hispanica seed - - 9 9
fg. - - 1 1
Ruderal weeds
Anagallis arvensis seed - 1 - 1
Echinochloa crus-galli seed - - 32 32
Wet places
Scirpus lacustris seed - 1 - 1
Hum Ecol (2011) 39:351–360 355

Table 1 (continued)

Sample A B C Total

Origin House floor Vessel Pit

Age (years BC) 450–400 225–175 225–175

Other
Avena sp. fg. - 4 - 4
fg. awn - 1 2 3
Fabaceae fg. 2 1 2 5
Malva sp. seed - - 1 1
Panicum/Setaria caryopsis - - 18 18
fg. - - 87 87
Poaceae fg. - 1 - 1
Silene sp. seed - 1 - 1
Undetermined seed - 1 - 1
Total (number of remains) 3015 2267 2498 7780
Nb of remains/litre ca. 600 755.67 249.80 -
Fragmentation rate (%) 91.48 74.50 37.87 69.32

see, sprout length is not perfectly uniform, but it seems disappearance of coleoptiles, coleorhizae and roots from
generally to reach half or two thirds of grain length. our sample.
The poor preservation of barley grains is probably
largely caused by germination, which tended to render
them brittle. Fragmentation occurred mostly after carbon- Discussion
ization and is therefore not due to Iron Age human
practices. The bad preservation of germinated carbonized The Remains of Deliberate Malting
grains has been confirmed experimentally (Stika 1996).
Even if they are weakly represented, the presence of hulled Germination of cereal grains can potentially be either
caryopses and glume fragments must be regarded as accidental or deliberate in origin (van Zeist 1991; Stika
evidence that grains were not dehusked before carboniza- 1996). Accidental germination can happen in the field or
tion. We might note that chaff is actually destroyed faster during storage, in both cases because of overly damp
than grains during carbonization (Boardman and Jones conditions. On the other hand, germination can be actively
1990). Charring is certainly also responsible for the induced by steeping grains in water in order to promote the

Fig. 3 Composition of sample


A from the floor of a 5th c. BC
A Triticum sp. - 1.1% B
Vitis vinifera - 1.1%
house. a, Overall relative abun- Various - 0.4%
dance of taxa represented by - Number of grains (237)
seeds and expressed as Minimal
Number of Individuals (MNI=
Nb of seeds+1/2 Nb of fg.). b,
50 100 150 200 250
Proportion of sprouted six-row 0
barley grains
- Relative proportion sprouted vs. unsprouted

Hordeum vulgare
- 97.4% 90.3% 9.7%
Germinated
Ungerminated
Not to estimate

NR = 3015
356 Hum Ecol (2011) 39:351–360

Fig. 4 Germinated carbonized


six-row barley grains (Hordeum
vulgare) from sample A

2 mm

development and activity of an enzyme that transforms the contaminant. Then, ideally, 95% of the grains should
starch of the grain into fermentable and more easily germinate to provide good starch degradation. This de-
digestible sugars. Malt (the sprouted grain) has various scription closely fits the situation displayed by the
alimentary uses (Maurizio 1927): it can be eaten as is or Roquepertuse sample. In the classical process, however,
used to make bread, but its most common use is certainly germination should be uniform and stopped when the
related to the production of fermented beverages. Beer sprout reaches two thirds of caryopsis length. However, it
results from alcoholic fermentation. Other kinds of fermen- seems likely that it would have been difficult to obtain such
tations can also occur, especially lactic fermentation, which an even germination before the establishment of rigorous
is generally regarded as responsible for the spoilage of the methods and processes of industrial brewing (van der Veen
initial product but can sometimes be promoted to produce 1989). Moreover, it has been demonstrated experimentally
acidic beverages or soups like the Russian kvas (Sigaut that when hulled barley is malted, the length of the dorsal
1997) or the African kaffir beer made of malted millet or groove is constrained for a large part by the tightening
sorghum (Hornsey 2003). These acidic beverages generally glumes. The malting level of the grains is reflected only to
also contain at least a small amount of alcohol (Maurizio a minor extent in their morphology (Stika 1996). We can
1927). Evidence from the site at Hochdorf suggests that, therefore estimate that barley grains were carbonized at the
due to the slowness of the drying process, the activity of end of the malting process and before grinding of the dried
lactic acid bacteria would be high, both helping preserva- malt.
tion due to acidity but also giving a sour taste to the beer
(Stika 2011). Beer Brewing: A Domestic Activity?
Various reasons lead us to argue that sample A from
Roquepertuse represents the remains of malt and therefore a There may thus be sound evidence that the barley deposit
probable evidence of beer-brewing. Due to its high density from sample A represents remains of malt and therefore
(more than 500 plant remains/l.) and to its purity (barley probably of beer brewing. The building where this evidence
grains make up more than 97% of the sample), it can be was found displays all the features of regional Iron Age
characterized as a close find assemblage or concentration human habitations. We consequently consider that, in this
(see Rösch et al. 1992), which implies a single product, case, beer brewing could have occurred as an ordinary
carbonized during storage or during its transformation domestic activity. Beer-making does not require specialized
process. Caryopses were still hulled but totally free of structures or implements (Arthur 2003; Laubenheimer et al.
weed seeds which points to a careful processing of the 2003). All that is needed is an amount of grain, some water,
grain. This does not fit with the hypothesis of a spoiled containers (commonly pottery vessels) in which to soak the
crop. Even more conclusive is the very high proportion of grain, a flat paved area—possibly the floor—to spread out
germinated grains. It cannot reasonably be argued that a and turn the grain during germination, an oven to dry it in
germination rate above 90% could be achieved accidentally. order to stop germination, domestic grindstones to grind the
Van der Veen (1989) assumes that above 15% of germinat- malted grain, hearths and again containers for fermentation
ed grains, one can probably rule out accidental sprouting. In and storage. Evidence for all of these sorts equipment is
fact, mature and well-developed caryopses germinated at a reported from the Roquepertuse dwelling.
rate above 75% are regarded as a reliable evidence of malt. Of special interest is the oven discovered less than 2 m
According to the traditional literature dedicated to beer- from the barley concentration. In brewing activity, an oven
brewing (Laubenheimer et al. 2003), as a prerequisite to is often employed to stop germination at the desired level
this, barley grains are carefully cleaned of every sort of by drying or roasting malted grain (van der Veen 1989;
Hum Ecol (2011) 39:351–360 357

Laubenheimer et al. 2003). The Roquepertuse oven (Fig. 5)


would have been especially suitable for this operation. It is
of a quite elaborate kind, typical of the French Mediterra-
nean area during the Iron Age and particularly well-known
in settlements from the Etang de Berre area (Py 1993;
Chausserie-Laprée 2005). Such ovens are composed of
three parts (Fig. 6): embers are contained in the lowest part
while food can be cooked in the upper part by hot air
circulating through the middle chamber. This would allow
gentle air-drying which is perfectly suited to stop the
germination process, as malt should not be overheated to
avoid damaging the chemical properties of enzymes
(Laubenheimer et al. 2003). Archaeologists still regard the
specific functions of these typical ovens as unknown and
they could have been multi-functional. A particular func-
tion of the drying or roasting of cereals has often been
assumed (Py 1993; Chausserie-Laprée 2005). According to Fig. 6 Schematic representation of the type of elaborated oven
identified in Roquepertuse (approximate height 1 m) (after Domallain/
the Roquepertuse evidence, the drying of malt may well Chausserie-Laprée 2005)
have been one of their specific functions.
In the case of Roquepertuse, it is not possible to state
whether carbonization results from the house being assemblages is not common and most dates to Roman or later
destroyed by fire or whether carbonization was accidentally times (van der Veen 1989; van Zeist 1991; Stika 1996).
caused during beer production, which involves heating at Except for Roquepertuse, the most ancient evidence seems to
various steps of the sequence, especially to stop germina- come from the early Celtic site of Hochdorf in modern-day
tion, as we have seen. Germany (ca. 600–400 BC; Stika 1996, 2011). In France,
assemblages of barley and millet grains contained in pots
Beer and Wine in Provençal Celtic Society retrieved from the Late Bronze Age cave (ca. 1,200–900
BC) of Planches-Près-Arbois (Jura; Pétrequin et al. 1985)
The consumption of beer among Celtic communities of and from the Early Iron Age (ca. 750–700 BC) tumulus of
Western Europe is well known from classical Greco- Saint-Romain-de-Jalionas (Isère; Verger and Guillaumet
Roman written sources (André 1981; Garnsey 1999; 1988) have been regarded as possible evidence of beer-
Laubenheimer et al. 2003). For example, according to brewing. But in those cases, since the grain is not sprouted,
Pliny (N.H., XIV, 29) in the first century AD, a wide various other equally plausible explanations could be put
variety of beers was brewed in Gaul and Spain, and some forward. Brewing of beer has been suggested from earlier
of the Spanish ones could be kept for several years. Spanish sites relying on other kinds of evidence: chemical
However, most of these texts are quite late. We do not analyses of Bell Beaker ceramics from various funeral
know of any mention earlier than the first century BC. settlements (Fabregas Valcarce 2001; Bueno Ramírez et al.
Archaeobotanical evidence is therefore of great interest. 2005; Rojo Guerra 2006) and starch grains analysis in the
Nevertheless, convincing evidence from germinated grain Late Bronze Age site of Genó (ca. 1,000–800 BC; Juan
Tresseras 1998). Archaeobotanical records of plants tradi-
tionally used to flavor beer, especially sweet gale (Myrica
gale) and hop (Humulus lupulus), strongly increase during
medieval times (ca. 500–1,500 AD) in northwestern Europe,
but some evidence of sweet gale in Iron Age settlements
from the Rhine estuary area could point to early use of this
additive and indirectly to beer-brewing (Behre 1992).
Diodorus of Sicily (Book V, 26) clearly mentions the
making of a barley beer in Gaul, which he calls zythos.
However, beer would not have been made solely from
barley but also from at least wheat (e.g., André 1981). Each
kind of beer would have had its own use and value, in
Fig. 5 Fragments of the oven retrieved in Roquepertuse, close to the addition to the consumption of wine. This is reflected in
concentration of carbonized barley grains the writings of Posidonius of Apameia (135–51 BC)
358 Hum Ecol (2011) 39:351–360

(Athenaeus, Deipnosophists, 4, 152 d in Laubenheimer et indigenized (e.g., Dietler 1990; 1997). It is true that no
al. 2003). Rich people would have drunk wine from Italy firm evidence of wine production or of grape cultivation
and from Massalia. Moreover, they would have drunk it is available in Southern France and Eastern Spain before
pure (which, in the eyes of the Greeks, was the sign of the establishment of colonial trade and interactions
absolute barbarism) or lightly mixed with water. Less (Bouby and Marinval 2001; Brun 2004; Buxo 2008).
wealthy people would have drunk beer made from wheat However, considering how fast grape cultivation and
and prepared with honey. The lower classes would have wine production had spread in Mediterranean Southern
had to content themselves with a simple beer, without France, we should not totally rule out the possibility that
honey, called corma, which other ancient authors, such as wine may have been known and used on a small scale by
Marcellus and Pedanius Dioscorides, describe as barley local societies before the emergence of the Mediterranean
beer. About the end of the first century BC, Strabo (IV, 6, wine trade.
2) mentions barley beer as the drink of Liguria, a What could have been the respective status and
Mediterranean region which included the hinterland of functions of these various alcoholic beverages? A kind
Massalia at the time. of social classification similar to the one portrayed later
According to archaeobotanical data, there already seems to by Posidonius of Apameia could be assumed: Massaliot
have been much diversity and complexity in the consumption wine for rich people, local wine for common people and
of alcoholic beverages at Roquepertuse about three centuries barley beer for the poor. The social, cultural and
before the birth of Posidonius. Of course, even if naked wheat economical factors at work may however have been
and, later, millets are archaeobotanically identified in the site, more intricate, subtle and interdependent. In non-
we still know nothing about their possible local use in industrial societies, alcohol is not only a foodstuff but
brewing. On the other hand, wine would have been quite commonly has many sociocultural, political and sym-
commonly consumed. Local people from fifth century BC bolic values (e.g., Dietler 1990, 2006; Jennings and
sites in the vicinity of Etang de Berre were accustomed to Bowser 2008; McGovern 2009). The fact that beer was
buying considerable amounts of wine from Mediterranean probably produced in a domestic context in Roquepertuse
merchants and above all from the Massaliots (e.g., Dietler does not necessarily mean that it was just an everyday
1990, 1997; Py 1993; Sourisseau 2000). Although only food. For example, in today’s Gamo society in Ethiopia,
small amounts of Massaliote amphorae shards have been beer is at the same time a common subsistence item, a
recovered from the fifth century BC habitations of high status food and an important feasting and ritual
Roquepertuse (Boissinot et al. 2000). Moreover, we have drink. It is a household product, even if more especially
to take into account the consumption of an indigenous, made in the wealthiest households (Arthur 2003). In
locally produced wine. At Roquepertuse, domesticated pips Zimbabwe, we also encounter home-brewed beer which
are evidenced. Of course we do not know whether grapes is importantly utilized during ceremonies, but is also
were used to make wine on the site or eaten fresh, dried drunk in everyday life, even if less commonly (Vermeu-
or used in some kind of preparation. Nevertheless, len et al. 1996). We should not regard beer as only or
neighboring Late Iron Age sites provided unusual primarily a poor man’s drink. Processing grain into beer
archaeobotanical evidence of winemaking. In Coudouneu instead of bread requires investing a significantly amount
(5th c. BC), Île de Martigues (4th c. BC) and le of labor and time, which adds to its value. Beer could
Castellan (2nd c BC) (Fig. 1), assemblages of pips, even have represented a commercial good in Celtic
pedicels, and pressed grape skins have been recovered societies. We mentioned above the passage in Pliny
from storage and domestic contexts (Marinval 1997; (N.H., XIV, 29) referring to some Spanish beers that
Bouby and Marinval 2001; Marty and Del Corso 2002). could be kept for several years. Hence, if people were
Such assemblages are clearly residues of wine-pressing able to preserve it effectively, beer could have been
activities (Margaritis and Jones 2006). They consistently exchanged. It has been argued that wooden barrels may
demonstrate the existence of local wine-making. have been invented and produced by Celtic people to
Beer drinking seems to have had a strong cultural store and transport beer before being used for wine
connotation. Beer is regarded as a long-standing tradi- (Tchernia 1997).
tional beverage of Western Europe (Dietler 1990), even
if, as we have seen, the evidence remains scarce. On the
contrary, Greco-Latin authors considered beer with a fair Conclusion
amount of disdain (André 1981). Mediterranean people
are regarded as wine-drinkers and in Southern France, In non-industrial societies, brewing beer does not necessi-
wine would have been an alien alcoholic beverage tate any special implement or structure. It can easily be
borrowed from Mediterranean colonial agents and rapidly carried out in a household context. The production and use
Hum Ecol (2011) 39:351–360 359

of beer therefore leave hardly any discernable trace in méthodologiques et premiers résultats. Archéologie du Midi
Médiéval 23(24): 61–74.
classical archaeological records. In this instance, archae-
Brun, J.-P. (2004). Archéologie du vin et de l’huile dans l’Empire
obotany can be of great use to us, provided that favorable romain. Errance, Paris. 316 p.
preservation conditions are present. Bueno Ramírez, P., Barroso Bermejo, R., and de Balbín Behrmann, R.
This is what indeed seems to have been the case in the (2005). Ritual campaniforme, ritual colectivo: la Necrópolis de
cuevas artificiales del Valle de las Higueras, Huecas, Toledo.
fifth century BC human habitation at Roquepertuse. An
Trabajos de Prehistoria 62(2): 67–90.
assemblage distinctly dominated by germinated barley Buxo I Capdevila, R. (1996). Evidence for vines and ancient
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Economic History of the Greco-Roman World. Cambridge
for her help in improving the English text. Many thanks are also due
University Press, Cambridge, pp. 242–276.
to Michael Dietler and Hans Peter Stika, for their useful comments
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and help in improving the manuscript.
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