SUPPLIES

● 4 balls of ​We Are Knitters Fabric Yarn​ (2 balls of each color)

● Size N​*​ (9mm) crochet hook
● scissors
 ● embroidery needle
● 2 pieces of felt or quilt batting
● polyfill stuffing​*

ABBREVIATIONS
● sl st – slip stitch
● ch – ​chain stitch
● dc – ​double crochet

PATTERN NOTES
● Because of the variability of thickness in fabric yarn, you may work more or less rounds so
that both sides of the star matches in size. If you’re using the same yarn for both sides, you
won’t have this problem.
● The ch 3 at the beginning of each round or row counts as a dc stitch.
● Work the last stitch of each round into the same stitch as the ch 3. It’s the equivalent of
“work 2 st into the next st”.
● Pulling the magic circle closed might be slightly difficult, but it will close if you pull hard
enough.
● As you work the center rounds, the piece may curl like you’re making a basket. The fabric
yarn is stretchy, so you can easily stretch it flat after each round.
● Each star point is worked the same way, starting with a ch 3 as the first stitch, then worked
in decreasing rows.
● Use batting or felt in between the pillows to prevent polyfill stuffing from leaking out.
● When you hold the two stars together, the edge shows 4 loops. The joining edge is worked
through the 2 inner loops.

CROCHET SIRIUS STAR PILLOW

INSTRUCTIONS
STAR CENTER
Round 1:​ Start with a magic circle. Ch 3 (counts as first st). Work 9 more dc into magic circle. Join with sl
st to 3rd starting ch. Pull magic circle closed.
Round 2:​ Ch 3 (counts as first st). Work 2 dc in next st. Continue to work 2 dc in each st around. Work 1
dc in last st (same st as beginning ch 3). Join with sl st to 3rd starting ch.

Round 3:​ Ch 3 (counts as first st). [Work 1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st.] 9 times. Work 1 dc in next st,
work 1 dc in last st (same st as beginning ch 3). Join with sl st to 3rd starting ch.
Round 4:​ Ch 3 (counts as first st). [Work 1 dc in next 2 st, 2 dc in next st.] 9 times. Work 1 dc in next 2 st,
work 1 dc in last st (same st as beginning ch 3). Join with sl st to 3rd starting ch.

Round 5: ​Ch 3 (counts as first st). [Work 1 dc in next 3 st, 2 dc in next st.] 9 times. Work 1 dc in next 4 st,
work 1 dc in last st (same st as beginning ch 3). Join with sl st to 3rd starting ch.

Round 5: ​Ch 3 (counts as first st). [Work 1 dc in next 4 st, 2 dc in next st.] 9 times. Work 1 dc in next 4 st,
work 1 dc in last st (same st as beginning ch 3). Join with sl st to 3rd starting ch. Do not cut yarn.

FIRST POINT
Row 1:​ From the end of Round 5, ch 3 (counts as first st). Work 1 dc in next 11 st. Turn.

Row 2:​ Sl st into 2nd st from hook. Ch 3 (counts as first st). Work 1 dc in next 9 st. Turn.

Row 3:​ Sl st into 2nd st from hook. Ch 3 (counts as first st). Work 1 dc in next 7 st. Turn.

Row 4:​ Sl st into 2nd st from hook. Ch 3 (counts as first st). Work 1 dc in next 5 st. Turn.

Row 5:​ Sl st into 2nd st from hook. Ch 3 (counts as first st). Work 1 dc in next 3 st. Turn.

Row 6:​ Sl st into 2nd st from hook. Ch 3 (counts as first st). Work 1 dc in same st as ch 3. Work 1 dc next
st. Cut yarn and fasten off.

SECOND (AND SUBSEQUENT) POINTS

Row 1:​ Work a standing sl st (shown in picture below) into the next stitch to the left of the previous point.
Ch 3 (counts as first st). Work 1 dc in next 11 st. Turn.
Row 2:​ Sl st into 2nd st from hook. Ch 3 (counts as first st). Work 1 dc in next 9 st. Turn.

Row 3:​ Sl st into 2nd st from hook. Ch 3 (counts as first st). Work 1 dc in next 7 st. Turn.

Row 4:​ Sl st into 2nd st from hook. Ch 3 (counts as first st). Work 1 dc in next 5 st. Turn.

Row 5:​ Sl st into 2nd st from hook. Ch 3 (counts as first st). Work 1 dc in next 3 st. Turn.

Row 6:​ Sl st into 2nd st from hook. Ch 3 (counts as first st). Work 1 dc in same st as ch 3. Work 1 dc next
st. Cut yarn and fasten off.

Weave in all ends.

BORDER
Starting at the base of any point, work 1 standing slip stitch. Work 13 sl st evenly up one side of the point.
Work 3 dc. Work 13 sl st evenly down the other side of the point. Continue working [13 sl st up one side, 3
ch, 13 sl st down one side] until you finish the round. Join to first sl st. Weave in ends.

ASSEMBLY
Place the two stars and batting together in order: star, batting, batting, star, with the front sides of the star
facing out. Starting at any stitch, work 1 standing sl st, working through the inner two loops of each stitch.
Work 1 sl st in each st around. Stop to stuff the pillow before joining the last point, adding the stuffing
between the two layers of batting.
Work 1 sl st in each st of the last point, and join to first sl st. Weave in ends.

This was a really fun and easy project to make, even with the arm workout. I love my totally huggable
pillow and really really love how cool and solid it feels when I hug it. You know, sometimes you want the
squishy silky soft pillow and sometimes, you want something you can prop your head on!