COATING PROBLEM SOLVER

ADHESION (BLOCKING):

Description:
Undesirable adhesion between two coated surfaces or between coat and weather
stripping. The coat sticks to itself or to the weather stripping when a window or door
is opened and usually leaves bare patches of substrate.

Possible Cause:
• Not allowing sufficient time for the
coating to dry before closing doors
or windows.
• Use of a cloth with low block resistance
(e.g. when two coated surfaces touch,
the coat tends to adhere to itself).
Solution:
• Coat with an oil-base coating or use a
high quality semi-gloss or gloss latex
with good block resistance.
• Remove all loose paint by scraping or
other methods, and sand the surface to
smooth out any rough edges. Remove all surface contamination by washing
with Bio-Wash®. Rinse thoroughly and allow drying. Glossy surfaces should be
sanded dull.
• Prime as needed and topcoat. Follow coat label instructions regarding dry
times.
• Application of talcum powder, wax, or soap may temporarily relieve blocking.

FAIRMATE | COATING PROBLEM SOLVER 1

BLISTERING:

Description:
Bubbles caused from a loss of adhesion and lifting of the coat film from the
underlying surface.

Possible Cause:
• Heat blistering caused by coating in
direct sunlight on a surface that is too
warm.
• Moisture blistering can be caused by
the migration of water through an
interior wall to the exterior, thus pushing
the coat off of the surface.
• Application of oil-based or alkyd coat
over a damp or wet surface.
• Exposure of latex coat film to dew, high
humidity, moisture, or rain shortly after
coat has dried, especially if there was
inadequate surface preparation and/or
poor ventilation in areas such as kitchens and bathrooms.
• Damp basements
• Moisture seeping into the home through the exterior walls.
• Insufficient surface preparation, coating over a contaminant that the coating
cannot adhere to.

Solution:
• If blisters go down to the substrate (e.g. the surface that is coated), the cause is
likely to be moisture escaping from the surface. Remove all loose coat (by
scraping or other method) and sand the surface to smooth out any rough edges.
Determine and repair any cause of excess moisture before recoating. Repair
old or damaged caulking or install new caulking as needed, install vents or
exhaust fans or siding wedges to allow the moisture a path to escape instead of
going through the coat.
• If blisters go down to a previous coat, remove all loose coat (by scraping or
other methods), and sand the surface to smooth out any rough edges. Sand
any glossy surface dull. Allow sufficient drying time after cleaning.

FAIRMATE | COATING PROBLEM SOLVER 2

BRUSH MARKS:

Description:
Failure of coat to dry to a smooth film, resulting in unsightly brush and roller marks
after the coat dries.

Possible Cause:
Application of additional coat or re-brushing
or re-rolling in areas where the coat has
partially dried.
• "Working" (e.g. applying too rapidly or
for too long) coat too much during
application.
• Use of the wrong type or nap size of
roller cover. Use of the wrong type or
size of brush.
• Applying too thin of a coat film.
• Coating a hot surface or in direct
sunlight.
• Coating a very porous surface.

Solution:
• Allow the coating to dry thoroughly, and then sand the coating smooth, and
recoat.
• Wait until the coat has dried thoroughly before touching up.
• Apply the coat using good coating technique.
• Follow label and data page directions for the appropriate quality, applicator size,
and type.
• Follow label and data page directions for the appropriate film build (e.g.
thickness of each coating layer).
• Follow label and data page directions for the appropriate environmental
conditions.
• Prime or seal porous surfaces.

FAIRMATE | COATING PROBLEM SOLVER 3

BUBBLING (FOAMING/ CRATERING):

Description:
Formation of air bubbles (foaming) and resulting small, round concave depressions
(cratering) when bubbles break in a coat film during drying.

Possible Cause:
• Shaking a partially filled can of coat or
using too high of a speed when using a
drill mixer.
• Excessive brushing or rolling – applying
coat too rapidly – will drive excess air
into the film.
• Use of a roller cover with wrong nap
length.
• Applying a gloss or semi-gloss coat over
a porous or unsealed surface.
• High heat during application speeds up
drying; bubbles or craters that form will
dry before they can break and level out.
• Using a thinner/reducer that is
inappropriate for the coating.

Solution:
• All coats will foam to some degree during mixing and application; most coats
are designed to allow these bubbles to break and flow smooth during drying.
• Allow the coating to dry thoroughly, then sand the coating smooth and recoat.
• Slowly stir partially filled containers to prevent entrapping excess air in the
coating.
• If there is a very noticeable amount of air bubbles during application, try slowing
down application speed.
• Follow label and data page directions for the appropriate applicator. Determine
the correct roller cover type or nap based on the coating being applied and the
surface to be coated. On smooth surfaces, a mohair, 1/4", or 3/8" roller nap is
usually sufficient. On textured surfaces, a 3/4" nap or greater is needed.
• Prime porous surfaces before top coating.
• Follow label and data page directions for the appropriate environmental
conditions.
• Allow each coating to dry properly before top coating.
• Follow label and data page directions for the appropriate thinner/reducer and
amount to use.

FAIRMATE | COATING PROBLEM SOLVER 4

CHALKING:

Description:
The formation of fine, white powder on the surface of the coat film due to
weathering, which may give the appearance of color fading. Although some degree
of chalking is normal and can be a desirable way for a coat film to wear, excessive
coat film erosion may result in heavy chalking.

Possible Cause:
• Oil-based coat tend to chalk more than latex
formulations.
• Use of a low-grade, highly pigmented coat.
• Factory-finished siding can develop an
excessively thick chalk layer and may require
power washing to ensure complete chalk
removal.
• Use of an interior coat for an outdoor
application.
• Not adequately sealing a porous surface.
• Over-thinning a coating (e.g. coat or stain).
• Spreading the coat too thin.

Solution:
• Remove chalk by washing or power washing the surface with an appropriate
cleaner. If some chalk remains after first washing, then wash again for complete
removal; scrubbing may be necessary. Rinse well with clear water. Allow to dry
thoroughly.
• Brick areas that are stained by "chalk run-down" should be scrubbed with a stiff
brush and detergent. Professional cleaning may be required to remove this
staining.
• For the best resistance to chalking, use higher-quality acrylic coatings.

FAIRMATE | COATING PROBLEM SOLVER 5

CRACKING:

Description:
The splitting of a dry coat film through at least one coat. In its early stages, the
problem appears as hairline cracks; in its later stages, flaking occurs.

Possible Cause:
• Use of a coat that has lower adhesion
and flexibility properties.
• Over-thinning or over-spreading the
coat.
• Inadequate surface preparation or
applying the coat to bare wood
without first applying a primer.
• Excessive hardening and
embrittlement of coat as it ages, the
coating loses the ability to expand
and contract with temperature and
humidity changes.

Solution:
• Remove loose and flaking coat with a scraper or wire brush, sanding the
surface and feathering the edges. If the flaking occurs in multiple layers of coat,
use of a spackling compound may be necessary to make a uniform surface.
Test the coating surrounding any peeled areas out about 6" to 12" to be sure
the adhesion is adequate.
• Prime bare wood or plaster before recoating.
• Apply the coatings at the recommended spreading rate (e.g. the recommended
total area that can be coated) and using the recommended thinning rate (e.g.
the recommended percentage that a coating may be diluted).

FAIRMATE | COATING PROBLEM SOLVER 6

DIRTY/SOILED:

Description:
Accumulation of dirt, dust particles, and/or other debris on the coat film.

Possible Cause:
• Exterior: soil splashing onto siding, air
pollution, and car exhaust.
• Interior: air-borne dust and household
dirt.

Solution:
• Wash the surface; if it comes clean,
coating may not be necessary.
• Interior - Remove stains, dirt and
marks; use a soft cloth or sponge with
water or a general-purpose
household cleaner. Penetrating stains
and marks may be removed either by
carefully using an abrasive cleaner
and water or by applying a solution of household bleach diluted with water and
then rinsing with clean water.
• Exterior - Remove dirt with a scrub brush and detergent solution or pressure
washing, followed by a thorough rinsing. While dirt accumulation cannot be
eliminated entirely, satin, gloss, and high-gloss coats are more resistant to
picking up dirt than flat coats due to their smoother finish.

FAIRMATE | COATING PROBLEM SOLVER 7

EFFLORESCENCE:

Description:
Crusty, white salt deposits, which are leached to the surface of mortar or masonry as
water passes through it. Efflorescence is often seen as a white fluffy deposit of salt
crystals on cementitious (e.g. masonry) wall surfaces. Efflorescence depends on the
presence of salt and moisture, and the growth of crystals will continue as long as
both are present. The salts are present in the mortar, blocks, or concrete structure,
and the moisture is usually attributable to some building defect. When emanating
from mortar in brick or block buildings, efflorescence will appear as narrow bands
corresponding to mortar joints.

Possible Cause:
• Failure to adequately prepare surface
by removing all previous
efflorescence.
• Interior moisture escaping through the
exterior masonry walls.
• Exterior moisture driven through
masonry walls by wind and rain.
• Basement walls that are not properly
sealed against ground moisture
penetration
• Insufficient curing time for new cement
or mortar.
• Use of brackish water at the time of
curing the plaster
• Contaminated sand during plastering
stage

Solution:
• If excess moisture is the cause, eliminate the source by repairing the roof,
cleaning out gutters and downspouts, and sealing any cracks in the masonry
with a quality caulk or sealant.
• If moisture is originating inside the building, consider installing vents or exhaust
fans, especially in kitchens, bathrooms, and laundry areas.
• If moisture is being driven through the walls from the outside, apply a
waterproofing coating to the outside.
• Remove the efflorescence and all other loose material with a wire brush, power
brush, or low-pressure washing, and then thoroughly rinse the surface.
• If the surface is highly alkaline, wash with a mild solution of Hydrochloric Acid.
• Coating should be delayed if efflorescence continues.

FAIRMATE | COATING PROBLEM SOLVER 8

FADING:

Description:
Premature and/or excessive lightening of the coat color, which can occur on
surfaces with sunny exposures. This is relatively easy to see because hidden areas
such as eaves will not usually fade. Fading/poor color retention can also be a result
of chalking of the coating (e.g. primer, paint or stain).

Possible Cause:
• Colors will fade slightly when exposed
to intense sunlight. As the coating
ages, the fading can become more
noticeable. Slight fading is
acceptable, provided it is gradual and
uniform so as not to be noticeable.
Excessive chalking of the coat film will
cause colors to appear lighter.
• Interior-grade colorants used outside
will fade.
• Adding more tint to the coating than is
recommended.
• Interior coatings may also fade if they
are near windows and there is
significant sunlight exposure.

Solution:
If the substrate is in good condition except for fading, clean as needed and recoat
using a coat that is fade-resistant. Follow label and data page directions for surface
preparation for the coating.

FAIRMATE | COATING PROBLEM SOLVER 9

FLAKING:

Description:
The lifting of coat from the underlying surface in the form of flakes. Flaking is
generally preceded by cracking or checking, and will occur over different surfaces.

Possible Cause:
• Cracking of exterior wood and
plywood as it expands and contracts
in response to temperature and
humidity changes, this is transmitted
through the coating.
• Poor coat penetration, especially on
wood with an excessive amount of
"flat" hard grain pattern, which is
smooth, hard, and non-porous.
• Poor surface preparation and/or
applying too thin a coat.

Solution:
• Scrape, sand, or scrub with a wire
brush to remove all loose and peeling coat.
• Sand if needed to fresh wood. Wood must not be allowed to weather prior to
coating.
• Follow label and data page directions for surface preparation for the coating.

FAIRMATE | COATING PROBLEM SOLVER 10

LAPPING:

Description:
Appearance of a darker/denser color or higher sheen where two layers overlap
during coat application.

Possible Cause:
• Failure to maintain a "wet edge"
when coating. Essentially, some
areas are receiving 2 coats.
• Coating on an unsealed surface.
• Coating under high temperatures.

Solution:
• Maintain a wet edge. When
coating, apply coat in the
uncoated area first and then back
into the wet coat surface. This
technique will produce a smooth,
uniform appearance. Work in
manageable-size areas; plan for
interruptions at a natural break,
such as a window, door, or
corner.
• Prime the surface with the appropriate primer to prevent the coat from soaking
into the surface and drying too quickly.
• Follow label and data page directions for the appropriate environmental
conditions.
• Begin rolling at a corner near the ceiling and work down the wall in three-foot-
square sections.
• Spread the paint in an "N" pattern, starting rolling from a dry area into the wet
area.
• Cross-roll to fill in the "N".
• Finish with light, downward, parallel strokes to uniform the finish.

FAIRMATE | COATING PROBLEM SOLVER 11

ALGAE GROWTH:

Description:
Black, gray, green, or brown spots on any surface. Coat does not cause mildew.

Possible Cause:
• Mildew forms on interior and exterior
surfaces that tend to be damp or
receive little or no direct sunlight.
• Coating over a substrate (e.g. the
surface that was coated) containing
mildew.

Solution:
• Test for mildew by applying a few
drops of household bleach to the
area, if it is bleached away, the
discoloration is probably mildew; if it
does not disappear, it is probably
dirt.
• Before coating, remove mildew by washing the surface with Bio-Wash®. Apply
the solution and scrub the mildewed area. Allow the solution to remain on the
surface for 10 minutes. Rinse thoroughly with water and allow the surface to dry
before coating. Wear protective eyewear, protective clothing, and waterproof
gloves. Quickly wash off any of the mixture that comes in contact with your skin.
Do not add detergents or ammonia to the bleach/water solution.
• To protect against mildew, use top-quality coat, and clean when necessary.
Install an exhaust fan in high-moisture areas.
• Use a product that contains agents that inhibit the growth of mildew on the
surface of coat film.
• If mildew is the only problem, coating may not be necessary after cleaning the
surface.

FAIRMATE | COATING PROBLEM SOLVER 12

MUDCRACKING:

Description:
Deep, irregular cracks resembling dried mud in the dry coat film.

Possible Cause:
• Coat is applied too thick.
• Coat is allowed to build up in corners
during application.
• Surface was not prepared properly;
contaminants were not removed.

Solution:
• Follow label and data page directions
for the appropriate surface
preparation.
• Follow label and data page directions
for the appropriate film build.
• Determine the correct roller cover
based on the coating being applied
and the surface. On smooth surfaces, a mohair, 1/4", or 3/8" roller nap is
usually sufficient. On textured surfaces, a 3/4" nap or greater is needed.
• Smooth the coating by scraping and/or sanding, prime if needed, and recoat.
• Quality coats have very good application and hiding properties, which minimize
the tendency to apply thick coat.

FAIRMATE | COATING PROBLEM SOLVER 13

OBVIOUS REPAIR:

Description:
A repaired or recoated area that is noticeably different than the surrounding space.

Possible Cause:
• Applying the touch-up with a tool
different from what was used to apply
the original coating, for example,
touching up a roller application with a
brush.
• Using a batch of coat that is different
from the original application.
• If the area was repaired, and the
repair has a different texture from the
surrounding surface.
• Applying the touch-up at a
temperature much different from the
original application.

Solution:
• Use the same tool to apply the touch-up as was used to apply the original coat.
• Try to keep some of the original batch of coat for touching up.
• During the repair process, make the repair match in appearance as close as
possible to the surrounding area, or feather the repair out into the surrounding
area to reduce any abrupt change in texture.
• It may be difficult to know the environmental conditions that existed prevalent
when the original coating was applied. Use good coating technique practice
when applying any coating; follow the label or data page instructions for
acceptable environmental conditions.
• Some thinning of the touch-up coating may help it blend into the surrounding
finish.
• Carefully feather the touch-up into the surrounding surface.

FAIRMATE | COATING PROBLEM SOLVER 14

PEELING:

Description:
Loss of adhesion of a coating to the substrate (e.g. the surface that was coated) or
an earlier coating. Where there is a primer and topcoat or multiple coats, peeling
may involve some or all of the coats.

Possible Cause:
• Seepage of moisture through
uncaulked joints or worn caulk.
• Leaks in roof or walls, or excess
moisture escaping through the
walls from the interior.
• Coating over a dirty, wet, or
glossy surface.
• Coating over a coating that
already has marginal adhesion.

Solution:
• Remove old, loose, cracked
caulk; prime as needed; and
caulk with the appropriate
product.
• Find and repair any source of water.
• Follow label and data page directions for proper surface preparation methods
for the coating.
• Test the coating in a 6" to 12" radius around any peeled areas to be sure its
adhesion is adequate.

FAIRMATE | COATING PROBLEM SOLVER 15

PEELING – DUE TO MOISTURE (OUTSIDE):

Description:
Loss of adhesion of exterior coat, usually exposing the bare surface.

Possible Cause:
Peeling results when a wet substrate
(e.g. the surface that has been coated)
swells, causing the coat film to loosen,
crack, and fall off. Among the variety of
ways for water to seep under the coat
film are:
• Worn-out or no caulking in joints,
corners, and openings, allowing
moisture to enter.
• Interior moisture migrating through
to the exterior walls.
• Coated surfaces that are too close to
bare ground.
• Leaking roofs.
• Coating a surface that is damp with rain, condensation, or dew.

Solution:
• Remove loose or cracked caulking and repair with a quality product.
• Install vents, louvers, fans, and dehumidifiers to reduce moisture, especially in
the kitchen, bathroom, and laundry area.
• If wood siding is touching the ground, remove that portion of the wood. Siding
should be installed not less than 6" above the ground.
• Repair the roof as needed.
• Test the coating in a 6" to 12" radius around any peeled areas to be sure the
adhesion is adequate.
• Follow label and data page directions for proper surface preparation and
environmental conditions.

FAIRMATE | COATING PROBLEM SOLVER 16

PEELING PLASTER:

Description:
Loss of a coating's (e.g. primer, paint or stain) adhesion from plaster, which can
occur in spots or larger areas.

Possible Cause:
• Peeling from plaster could be a result
of insufficient wet troweling of the
white coat when the plaster was
originally applied, causing chalking of
the surface.
• Very hard plaster may be slick,
reducing the adhesion of any coating.
• New plaster might have a high pH,
requiring the application of a primer
resistant to alkalinity.
• Old plaster that has become powdery.
• Poor surface preparation.

Solution:
• Bare plaster must be cured and hard.
Textured, soft, porous, or powdery plaster should be treated with a solution of
473 ml household vinegar to 3.78 Liters of water. Repeat until the surface is
hard; rinse with clear water and allow drying. All new plaster should be primed
after it has been cured a minimum of 30 days.
• If peeling has already occurred, remove as much of the coating as possible by
sanding or scraping before recoating. Test the coating in a 6" to 12" radius
around peeled areas to be sure the adhesion is adequate.
• Cracks and holes in plaster should be repaired before recoating. Make sure the
newly repaired plaster is similar in surface texture to the adjacent plaster so that
the repaired area blends in with the original area.
• Follow label and data page information for proper surface preparation and
application.

FAIRMATE | COATING PROBLEM SOLVER 17

ROLLER MARKS/STIPPLING:

Description: Unintentional textured pattern left in the coat by the roller.

Possible Cause:
• Use of incorrect roller cover.
• Use of incorrect rolling technique.

Solution:
Follow label and data page directions
for the appropriate roller cover type
and nap size. In general:
• Latex coats use synthetic fiber
covers.
• Alkyd/oil coats use lambs' wool,
mohair, or other natural fiber
covers.
• Smooth surfaces: flats and satins
use 3/8" covers; semi-gloss and
gloss use 1/4" covers.
• Textured surfaces: (depending on the texture) 1/2", 3/4", or longer.
• Quality rollers generally ensure adequate film (e.g., primer or paint) thickness
and uniformity.
• When using latex coat, pre-dampen roller covers with water and shake out
excess water.
• Condition the roller by wetting it with the coat for 5 minutes prior to using.
• Do not let coat build up at roller ends.
• Problem areas should be sanded smooth before repainting.

FAIRMATE | COATING PROBLEM SOLVER 18

ROLLER SPATTERING:

Description:
Tendency of a roller to throw off small droplets of coat during application.

Possible Cause:
• Applying the coating (e.g., primer or
paint) too fast.
• Using a roller cover with the wrong
nap for the product.
• Overloading the roller cover with
coat.
• Overworking the coat once it is
applied to a substrate (e.g., the
surface to be coated).
• Over Thinning of product.

Solution:
• Follow label and data page
directions for the appropriate roller
type and size for the product.
• Use quality roller covers, which have proper resiliency and reduce spattering.
• Use quality coats that are formulated to minimize spattering.
• Follow label and data page directions for thinning the coat.

FAIRMATE | COATING PROBLEM SOLVER 19

SAGGING:

Description:
Downward "drooping" of the coat film immediately after application, resulting in an
uneven coating.

Possible Cause:
• Application of too heavy a coat.
• Application in excessively humid
and/or cool conditions.
• Application of over thinned coat.
• Coating over a glossy surface,
which does not provide enough of a
profile to which the coating to
adhere to.
• Coating over a surface contaminant.

Solution:
• If coat is still wet, immediately brush
out or re-roll to redistribute the
excess evenly.
• If the coat has dried, sand and
reapply a new coat.
• Do not thin the coat unless recommended on the label or data page.
• Follow label and data page directions for the appropriate environmental
conditions for the coating.
• Sand glossy surfaces dull to provide a profile for the coating to adhere to.
• Follow label and data page directions for the appropriate spreading rate (e.g.,
the recommended total area that can be coated) for the product. Two coats of
coat at the recommended spread rate are better than one heavy coat.

FAIRMATE | COATING PROBLEM SOLVER 20

TRANSPARENT (POOR HIDING):

Description:
Failure of dried coat to obscure or hide (e.g. ability to fully conceal coated surface)
the underlying color or surface to which it is applied.

Possible Cause:
• Applying too thin of a coat film.
• Use of coat with low hiding
characteristics.
• Use of a coat that is much lighter or
darker than the previous coat.
• Use of the wrong type or nap size of
roller cover. Use of the wrong type or
size of brush.
• Coating over a porous surface that
absorbs the coating.
• Poor flow and leveling.
• Thinning/reducing the coating.

Solution:
• Follow label and data page directions for the appropriate film build (e.g.
thickness of each coating layer).
• Prime the surface with the recommended primers for the color of the topcoat.
• Determine the correct roller cover type or nap based on the coating being
applied and the surface to be coated. On smooth surfaces, a mohair, 1/4", or
3/8" roller nap is usually sufficient. On textured surfaces, a 3/4" nap or greater is
needed.
• Prime porous surfaces before top coating.
• Allow proper drying time before recoating.
• See Brush or Roller Marks.

FAIRMATE | COATING PROBLEM SOLVER 21

UNEVEN COLOR (PICTURE FRAMING/ HATBANDING):

Description:
A non-uniform appearance of color that occurs when a wall is coated with a roller
and the edges (where the roller could not reach) are "cut in" with a brush. The
brushed areas generally appear darker, thus resembling the frame of a picture.
Sprayed areas may be darker than neighboring sections that are brushed or rolled.

Possible Cause:
• Applying coat at different film builds
(e.g. thickness of each coating layer)
as a result of using a thick brush cut-
in application versus a thin roller
application. Spraying versus brushing
may also show the problem because
of differing film builds.
• Not keeping a wet edge while coating
(i.e. applying wet coat to the edge of
dry or almost dry coat).
• Incomplete mixing of the coat;
material that has settled to the
bottom is not uniformly incorporated.

Solution:
• Don't cut in the entire room before coating the larger areas. Work in smaller
sections of the room to maintain a wet edge. When using a brush, only cut in as
narrow an area as needed, usually 1" to 2", using the roller as close to the
corner as possible.
• Apply the coating as uniformly as possible with any application method.
• All colors, including white, should be thoroughly shaken before use.

FAIRMATE | COATING PROBLEM SOLVER 22

UNEVEN GLOSS (FLASHING):

DESCRIPTION:
Deterioration of the coat film, resulting in excessive or rapid loss or gloss/luster of
the topcoat. Uneven appearance of a coating's gloss, sheen or luster.

Possible Cause:
• Heavy dew, moisture, or
condensation getting onto a
coating (e.g. primer, paint or
stain) while drying.
• Temperature fluctuations during
drying.
• Coating over a porous surface.
• Coat applied at uneven film
thickness (i.e. lapping).
• Insufficient film builds (e.g.
coating applied too thin).
• Use of an interior paint outdoors.

Solution:
• Exterior alkyd/oil-based coats and
solvent-based epoxies will chalk,
giving the appearance of loss of gloss failure. Washing the chalk off should
return most of the original finish, but it will chalk again. If this is unsatisfactory,
recoat with an acrylic following all label directions.
• Bare substrates (e.g. the surface to be coated) should be primed/sealed before
applying the topcoat to ensure a uniform surface.
• Spot prime any patched areas to try to level off the porosity of the surface.
• Often, applying an additional coat will even out sheen irregularities.
• Thinning any touch-up coating may help it blend in better.
• Follow label and data page directions for the proper environmental condition for
application.
• Follow label and data page directions for the appropriate film build and
applicator.
• Follow label and data page directions for product use.

FAIRMATE | COATING PROBLEM SOLVER 23

YELLOWING:

Description:
Development of a yellow cast in aging coat, most noticeable in the dried films of
white coats or clear varnishes.

Possible Cause:
• Alkyd/oil based coats, because of
their curing mechanism, tend to
yellow, particularly in areas that
are not exposed to sunlight.
• Oil-based varnishes start with an
amber cast and will darken with
age.
• Heat from stoves, radiators, and
heating ducts.
• Lack of light, for example, behind
pictures or appliances and inside
closets.
• Tobacco staining or other
environmental contaminants.
• Moisture.

Solution:
• If there are no other problems and the yellowing is not offensive, recoating is
not necessary.
• Recoating using a latex coat will reduce the amount of yellowing, but if the
environmental conditions that caused the previous coating to yellow continue,
any new coating will likely yellow as well.

SUGGESTED COATING PRODUCTS

Water Based: FAIRCOAT, FAIRCOAT – A, FAIRCOAT (I), WATERGUARD – C,

SAFECORE PUD, FAIRMATE WALL COAT, FAIRCOAT STUCCO, etc.

Solvent Free: SAFECORE SF, SAFECORE AR, SAFECORE VC, etc.

Solvent Based: SAFECORE EP (F), SAFECORE EP(S), SAFECORE EP (LS),

SAFECORE CE, WATERGUARD CE, SAFECORE CE(S), SAFECORE CE (LS).

***********************

FAIRMATE | COATING PROBLEM SOLVER 24