How To Use This Competency-Based Learning Material: Task Sheets and Job Sheets Are Activity Sheets That Will Help You

HOW TO USE THIS COMPETENCY-BASED LEARNING
MATERIAL
Welcome to the module in Handle and Sharpen Knives. This module

contains training materials and activities for you to complete.
The unit of competency, “Handle and Sharpen Knives” contains
knowledge, skills and attitudes required for Slaughtering Operation (Large
Animals) NCII.
This module, Handling and Sharpening Knives, covers the skills
and knowledge required to maintain knives for safe and effective use in
slaughtering and meat establishments.
You are required to go through a series of learning activities in order
to complete each learning outcome of the module. Information Sheets has a
learning contents that you need to learn. Each Information Sheet has
learning objective that you need to attain while reading the information
sheets. After each information sheet is a self-check that will help you test
yourself if you have attained the learning objectives.
Task Sheets and Job Sheets are activity sheets that will help you
practice the skills previously discussed in the Information Sheet or
demonstrated by your trainer. A performance Criteria Checklist is provided
with the task sheets and job sheets which will allow for self-evaluation or
evaluate your performance. Follow these activities on your own. If you have
questions, don’t hesitate to ask your trainer for assistance.
Remember to:
 Work through all the information and complete the activities in each
section.
 Read information sheets and complete the self-check. Suggested
references are included to supplement the materials provided in this
module.
 Perform the task sheets and job sheets until you are confident that
your outputs conform to the performance criteria checklist that
follows the sheets.
 Submit outputs of the task sheet and job sheets to your facilitator for
evaluation and recording in the Progress Chart. Outputs shall serv as
your portfolio during the institutional competency evaluation. When
you feel confident that you have had sufficient practice, ask your
trainer to evaluate you. The results of your assessment will be
recorded in your progress chart.
You must pass the institutional competency evaluation for this
competency before moving to another competency. A certificate of
achievement will be awarded to you after passing the evaluation.
Date Developed: Document No. PFB751335
Housekeeping NCII August 2018 Issued by:
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QA System CBLMs on Handling and Developed by:
Sharpening Knives Agaton B. Francia
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SLAUGHTERING OPERATION (LARGE ANIMALS) NCII
Competency-Based Learning Materials
List of Competencies
No. Unit of Competency Module Title Code
1 Handle and sharpen Handling and sharpening PFB751335

knives knives
2 Perform initial preparation Performing initial PFB751336

procedures preparation procedures
3 Prepare carcass Preparing carcass PFB751337
4 Perform final procedures Performing final procedures PFB751338

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MODULE CONTENT
Qualification Title : Slaughtering Operation (Large Animals) NCII
Unit of Competency : Handle and sharpen knives
Module Title : Handling and sharpening knives
Introduction
This unit covers the skills and knowledge required to maintain knives for
safe and effective use in slaughtering and meat establishments.
Learning Outcomes:
Upon completion of this module, you must be able to:
LO1 - Sharpen knives

LO2 - Work safely with knives
LO3 - Maintain knives and associated equipment
Assessment Criteria:
1. Knives are sharpened according to workplace requirements

2. Knives are sharpened to maintain a bevel edge
3. Steel is used correctly to maintain a bevel edge and to meet
Occupational Safety and Health Standards (OSHS)
4. Personal Protective Equipment(PPE) are used according to OSHS
5. Knives are used in ways which minimize the risk of injury
6. Knives are used safely at all times in accordance to regulatory
requirements
7. Knives are maintained in accordance to hygiene and sanitation and
workplace requirements
8. Knife sharpening equipment is maintained, cleaned and stored to
hygiene and sanitation and workplace requirements
9.

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LEARNING OUTCOME #1 SHARPEN KNIVES
CONTENTS:
1. Critical risk: Knife handling
2. Knives Anatomy
3. The Blades
4. Sharpen knife
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:
1. Knives are sharpened according to workplace requirements

2. Knives are sharpened to maintain a bevel edge
3. Steel is used correctly to maintain a bevel edge and to meet
Occupational Safety and Health Standards (OSHS)
4. Personal Protective Equipment(PPE) are used according to OSHS
CONDITION:
Students/Trainees must be provided with the following:
1. Workplace location
2. Tools and equipment/utensils appropriate to knife
sharpening
3. Materials relevant to the proposed activity and tasks
ASSESSMENT METHOD:
Trainees will measure the underpinning knowledge and skill and

attitude in Handling and sharpening knives through the following
assessment method:
1. Written Exam
2. Demonstration with Oral Questioning
3. Interview/Oral Questioning

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LEARNING EXPERIENCE
LEARNING OUTCOME 1
SHARPEN KNIVES
Learning Activities Special Instructions
Read Information Sheet 1.1-1 on Read and understand the
Critical risk: Knife handling information sheet and check
yourself by answering the self-
Answer Self-Check 1.1-1 check. You must answer all the
questions correctly before
Check Answer base on the Answer Key
proceedings to the next activity
1.1-1
Read Information Sheet 1.1-2 on Refer to Task sheets, it will help
Knives Anatomy you practice your skills.
Answer Self-Check 1.1-2
The performance criteria
Check Answer base on the Answer Key checklist will guide and help you
1.1-2 evaluate your work as you are
Read Information Sheet 1.1-3 on The practicing your skills.
Blades
Evaluate your own performance
Answer Self-Check 1.1-3 using the performance criteria
checklist. When you are ready,
Check Answer base on the Answer Key present your work to your trainer
1.1-3 for final evaluation and
Read Information Sheet 1.1-4 on recording.
Sharpen knife
If you have questions and
Answer Self-Check 1.1-4 clarification fell free to ask your
trainer.
Check Answer base on the Answer Key
1.1-4 After doing all the activities for
Refer to Job Sheet 1.1-4 on Sharpen this LO – Sharpen Knives you are
Knives ready to proceed to the next LO -
Work safely with knives.
Perform Job Sheets 1.1-4
Evaluates own performance using the

performance criteria checklist 1.1-4

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Information Sheet 1.1-1
Critical risk: Knife handling
Learning Objectives:
After reading this Information Sheet you should be able to:
1. Identify and understand the critical risk in handling knifes
Identifying the risk:
Knives are important tools in

the meat industry. However,
they are also one of the most
dangerous utensils if they are
not handled and used correctly
and safely.
The most important thing to

remember is that a sharp knife
is a safe knife. Blunt knives require more grip and more force to do the job
and therefore can result in serious strains and sprains to workers and can
cause lasting injuries. Workers with sharp knives do not have to push the
knife and therefore get less tired and sore over the course of the day.
Likewise, an operator using a blunt knife that needs to be forced through

the meat is more likely to accidently stab themselves or those working
around them.
Potential impact of the risk:
The number of injuries involving knives is a major concern in the meat

processing industry. The most common type of injuries are lacerations.
These often require medical attention and may need suturing or skin
grafting. Injuries include:
 cuts to the non-knife hand or arm (most common)

 cuts to the hand holding the knife which occur when the hand slips
off the handle

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 cuts which occur with a reverse grip and pulling back towards the
body
 cuts to another person, inadvertently, where people are too close
together when
 working
 sprains or strains (e.g. from the extra effort required to use knives
that are not enough sharp).
Supervisor Responsibilities:
Supervisors have responsibilities in implementing and monitoring all

procedures that apply to the work performed by the employees in their area.
This includes:
 instructing workers in safe and healthy work practices

 providing information on particular hazards in work tasks
 monitoring staff in how they apply safe work practices
 participating in changes to procedures where there are problems
 ensuring appropriate PPE is used and maintained correctly
 ensuring appropriate hazard information signs and other OH&S
information is displayed
 ensuring any staff who receives a knife injury receives first aid
treatment reporting the incident to the correct authority.
In summary, supervisors should provide relevant and practical information,

training and supervision to all employees in their area.
Preventing the risk:

Avoid injuring yourself with a knife. Commonsense and concentration will
help avoid knife accidents. Knife accidents are most likely to occur when
workers are tired and not concentrating on the job they are doing. It is very
easy to cut yourself when you become distracted from your job or careless in
your approach to work.
Complacency is a common cause of knife accidents. Workers become so

accustomed to handling knives they quickly forget how dangerous they are.
Make sure your staff receive adequate knife safety training. Always put
knives in their pouch when not in use. Don’t talk with a knife in your hand
especially if you ‘talk with your hands’.
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Don’t use a knife to move pieces of meat, especially to someone else e.g. a
slicer to a packer. One slip and you’ve stabbed someone. Don’t use a knife
as a scraper.
Apply the following rules to avoid injury.
 When using a sharpening stone, make sure the stone is on a slip-

proof, flat surface.
 Make sure your steel has a safety guard between the handle and the
body of the steel.
 When using a grindstone, make sure the rotation of the stone and the
cutting edge of the blade are away from your body.
 If you drop your knife let it fall, don’t try to catch it.
 Always place your knife in the scabbard or pouch when not in use.
 Don’t use a blunt knife as you will need to use more force which gives
you less control.
 Never take your eyes off the cutting path of the knife, if you must look
away, stop cutting.
 Never cut towards yourself or towards another individual.
 Always be aware of the movement of people around you.
 Never fool around with a knife in your hand or fool around with others
who may have a knife in their hand.
 Keep the handle of the knife clean and free of fat and grease at all
times.
Personal protective equipment is a vital part of knife safety and workers

should always use PPE when working with a knife. The range of PPE
equipment used can include:
o mesh gloves

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 mesh aprons
 cut resistant gloves
 arm guards

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Hierarchy of control measures
Effectiveness Types of Examples

control
Most effective Elimination Redesign the workplace to remove the

need for inappropriate work practices
e.g., using a knife to transfer meat by
piercing and levering.
Substitution Replace old, blunt knives with well-

designed and sharpened knives.
Isolation Redesign the workplace to minimize

distractions from the task, reduce
additional stressors and minimise
fatigue e.g., reduce noise, provide
comfortable working temperatures and
reduce uncomfortable working postures.
Engineering Provide sufficient work space for each

Controls worker to reduce the risk of one worker
stabbing or cutting another.
Administrative Train staff in knife safety and

controls sharpening knives. Provide training to
allow safe and effective rotation, where
appropriate, to minimise risk of
occupational overuse injuries. Discuss
SOPs and work instructions for knife
safety during induction.
Least Effective Personal Wear cut-resistant gloves on the knife

Protective hand and a mesh gauntlet (or a
Equipment combination of a mesh glove and arm
guard) on the non-knife hand. Wear
mesh aprons.

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Self-Check 1.1-1 (True or False)
Instruction: Write TRUE if the statement is correct and FALSE if it is

incorrect. Write your answer on a separate sheet of paper
1. When using a sharpening stone, make sure the stone is on a slippery

so that it is easy to sharpen knifes, flat surface.
2. Make sure your steel has a safety guard between the handle and the
body of the steel.
3. When using a grindstone, make sure the rotation of the stone and the
cutting edge of the blade are away from your body.
4. If you drop your knife catch it using the mesh gloves.
5. Always place your knife in the scabbard or pouch when not in use.

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Answer Key 1.1-1
1. FALSE
2. TRUE
3. TRUE
4. FALSE
5. TRUE

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Knives Anatomy
2. Examine and learn the knifes anatomy
Part of a Knife DescribedKnives are a

commonly used tool that we often take
for granted. We expect them to perform
and cut with ease, but we rarely pay any
more attention to our knives than that.
To understand your knife, it is important
to learn about its construction and be
able to identify the various knife parts.
First, it is easy to divide the knife into

two main parts, the handle and the
blade. But each of those two parts can
also be subdivided into its own parts.
With the help of the photo at right and
the descriptions below, you will better
understand what components make up
your knife.
Point – The point is the part of the knife

where the edge and spine come together.
The point is often used for piercing.
Tip – The tip is the forward part of the

knife and includes the knife point. The
tip is used detailed or delicate cutting.
Edge – The edge is the cutting part of the

blade. It extends from the point to the
heel of the knife.
Heel - The heel is the rear part of the edge, opposite the point.

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Spine - The spine is the top of the knife blade, opposite the knife edge.
Bolster - The bolster is the band that joins the blade of the knife to its
handle. The bolster provides balance for the knife and also helps to protect
the hand from getting in the way of the knife edge.
Tang - The tang is the part of the blade that extends into the handle of the
knife. It is the surface to which the handle attaches to the blade.
Scales – The scales are the part of the knife that creates the handle. Scales
are often made of synthetic material or wood. Two scales are typically
attached to the tang with rivets.
Rivets – The rivets are metal pins used to join the scales to the tang to form
the handle.
Butt – The butt is the end of the handle of the knife.
Different Knives Anatomy
A simple knife seems easy to describe. A blade and handle are the
obvious terms that generalize the knife as a hand knife. A hand knife is one
that is meant to be in the hand. You might be surprised how many knives
are in the world; there are knives to plane wood, knives to shear steel,
knives to separate particles in industrial process applications. In my
upcoming book, I'll go into the bewildering classification of knives and
blades, and our government's idea that they can classify, track, and identify
them all!
The following dozen illustrations point out and describe various hand
knife components and areas. It's easy enough to identify specific
components and their location (like the point of the blade), other knife parts
are more generalized to an area (like the grind). Items that accompany, are
part of, or are attached to the knife blade (like the bolsters) can have widely
varying shapes, arrangements, and purposes.
Knife Anatomy 1
This picture starts what seems to be

obvious. The knife has a handle and a
blade. The blade has a point (or tip) and the
point often determines the use, style, and
connotation describing the knife blade
shape. More on that later.

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The spine (also sometimes called the back) is the thickest, heaviest length of
the blade and supports the entire blade. The wider and thicker the spine,
the stronger the blade along its length.
You might read elsewhere on the internet that it is debatable whether the
full tang or the hidden tang is stronger. This is not even a close argument.
The full tang has full thickness across the width of the blade at the most
critical area, in front of and behind the front bolster location. On a hidden
tang, this is where the blade is ground down and reduced in size and
thickness to a shoulder (below). The hidden tang also only has a small width
of tang running through the handle to the threaded portion where the
pommel is screwed on. So there simply is no way that the hidden tang is
even comparable in blade-to-handle strength to the full tang. The hidden
tang simply has less metal in the entire handle. Detailed description and
illustration of the hidden tang knife handle below.
The handle of this full tang knife is framed in by the front and rear bolster.
The bolsters do exactly that, they bolster the blade's strength in the critical
areas: the handle to blade junction, and the rear or butt of the knife where
heavy blows or impact require reinforcement. The bolsters also help to
protect and mechanically secure the handle.
Knife Anatomy 2
A few more details here. The thickest

part of the knife blade: the spine, is also
the blade flat, the part of the blade that
is flat ground and both sides are typically
parallel. It extends up to the thumb rise
on this example, where the thumb rests
in a traditional grip style, and down to
the ricasso, the heavy thick shank of the
blade between the grind and the front bolster. It extends (in this illustration)
toward the point. The grind or hollow grind in this case is the part of the
knife where the blade is thinned along its length to yield a uniform, thin
cutting edge. The grind is a very distinctive part of the knife, and fine
workmanship is usually noticed here by how deep, matched, regular, and
well-finished the grind is. Some older texts and beginners in knife chat sites
and forums call the grind a bevel but this is technically incorrect, since
there may be many actual geometric bevels on a knife, and a bevel is a slope
or slant of a line, and therefore straight. On a flat ground knife, one might
call it a bevel, but knives are ground in many ways: hollow, convex, tapered,
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flat, and even a combination of grind geometries. Since modern knives are
nearly all abrasively ground, the area is called a grind.
The front quillon stops the hand from sliding forward on the blade, and in
this knife pattern, the hand is locked between the front and rear quillons.
The rear quillon also aids in removing the knife from the sheath. The handle
belly makes many knives more comfortable to hold. The handle scales rest
between the bolsters and should be pinned, riveted, screwed, or mounted
with mechanical as well as adhesive means.
Knife Anatomy 3
A spear point designation used to refer to a

double edge, but nowadays it can refer to the
almost uniform geometry of the point. If you
were to bisect the profile of the point, you
would see a nearly symmetrical profile on
both sides of the center line, like a spear of
old. In this drawing, you'll notice grind
terminology. The grind termination is at the ricasso, plunges into the meaty
part of the blade, has a radius that delineates the transition between the
grind termination and and the grind line, and leads off the blade at the
spine near the point. The grind termination radius is determined by the
wheel size if hollow ground and other factors.
The choil is considered the start of the cutting edge. In days of old, the choil
was perpendicular to the edge, and is often still described as the lower part
of the ricasso, the part that is unsharpened and at the full thickness of the
blade. In the modern knife, it can be carved, fluted, fileworked, and a
separate feature of a fine knife. It's purpose is to have a definite location to
start the sharpened edge of the knife.
It's interesting to note that for nearly all United States locations, laws state
that blade length is not the length of the cutting edge, but the length of the
blade from the tip to the front bolster face.
In this drawing you can see why this rear quillon is often called a hawk's
bill.

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Self-Check 1.1-2 (Multiple Choice)
Instruction: In a separate sheet of paper write the letter of the correct

answer.
1. Is the part of the knife where the edge and spine come together.
a. Point
b. Tip
c. Edge
d. Heel
2. Is the forward part of the knife and includes the knife point
a. Point
b. Edge
c. Heel
d. Tip
3. Is the top of the knife blade, opposite the knife edge

a. Bolster
b. Spine
c. Tang
d. Scales
4. Is the band that joins the blade of the knife to its handle. It provides
balance for the knife and also helps to protect the hand from getting
in the way of the knife edge
a. Bolster
b. Spine
c. Tang
d. Scales
5. Are metal pins used to join the scales to the tang to form the handle.
a. Tang
b. Scales
c. Rivets
d. Butt

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Answer Key 1.1-2
1. A-Point
2. D-Tip
3. B-Spine
4. A-Bolster
5. C-Rivets

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The Blades
1. Examine and learn the knife blade and its parts
Here on the Lansky Sharpeners Blog we’ve been providing some serious
education on all the different types of blades and grinds. When you first
start learning about knife sharpening and knives, it can be like trying to sip
from a fire hydrant on full blast; there’s a lot of information and it comes at
you fast. For such a seemingly simple concept, knives and knife sharpening
can get very complicated, very fast. So, what makes it seem so complicated?

First off, the sea of terminology used to describe different parts of knives can
be daunting. Many of the terms used to describe the different parts of a
knife stem from other languages and historical terms not in use today.
Second, knives have gone through (and still do) so many modifications and
changes over the years and more and more terms are added to the
vocabulary.

Combine these two factors and it could lead a grown man to hide in a
corner weeping over the good old days when a knife had three parts; a blade,
guard and handle. So wash your hands, slip on your lab coat and put that
silly paper mask on. It’s time to learn anatomy; Fixed Blade Knife Anatomy.

Let’s start with the basics; the visible characteristics on a
basic fixed blade knife going from the tip of the blade to
ricasso. As I mentioned in my last post Knife Blade
Profiles and Uses knife blade come in many shapes and
types. Though knife blades may have different
characteristics and design, their anatomy (the different
sections and pieces that form a serviceable knife) can generally be broken
down with just a few variances.


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FIXED BLADE ANATOMY

The Blade
 The Tip or Point of a blade is simple; it’s the pointy end of the blade.
You should know that by now, but I won’t blame you. Tip and point
can be used interchangeably but may be used separately to describe
two different aspects of the anatomy. The “point” being literally the
point where the spine and edge meet and the “tip” referring to a small
section at the front of the blade that leads up to the point.

 The Cheek or Face of a blade refers to each side of the blade, often
used to refer to the section separate from the grind but can be used to
refer to each side of the blade, including the grind.

 The Spine of a blade refers to the dull, unsharpened back of a blade,
the opposite side of the edge. Double edged blades (daggers) do not
have a spine but most knives found in the home or for outdoor use
will have a spine.

 The Grind or Bevel of the blade is explained thoroughly in my
post Knife Edge Grinds and Usesand refers to the cross section of the
blade, or the section ground down to form the Edge. For more
information about different grinds and their significance, follow my
link above.

 The Edge is the cutting surface of a blade that extends from point to
heel. It’s the sharp part! And also, the reason I have gainful
employment.

 The Belly of the blade refers to the curved section of the edge leading
up to the tip. The belly on a blade increases the surface area of the
edge and aids in making cuts or slices. Blades with large curved edges

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like fillet knives and scimitar style daggers have large bellies intended
for strong slicing cuts.

 The Heel of the blade refers the section of the blade next to the guard
or handle. The heel encompasses a small section of the grind,
the Plunge Line and the Ricasso.

 The Plunge Line is where the grind stops and meets the edge, often at
a right angle to the grind.

 The Ricasso is the unsharpened section of a blade, closest to the
guard/handle.

 Some blades may have a Choil. A choil is an unsharpened indent on a
blade where it meets the handle or at the plunge line. The size of a
choil dictates its purpose, if it’s large then it can be used as a forward
finger grip. If it’s small then the choil may be there to creat a stopping
point when sharpening, to protect the handle.

 A Fuller or Blood Groove (not shown) is a decorative feature that
runs the length or a partial length of the blade. A fuller may be used
to reduce the weight of the blade but often is used purely for
decoration.

 Jibbing (not shown) refers to a pattern of gouges or notches made on
the spine of a blade close to the handle. Jibbing is used to aid in grip
when doing fine work and as a decorative feature.
The Guard, Handle and Tang
Alright knife fans, now that you've committed the anatomy of the knife blade
to your memory, let’s move on to the rest of the knife. I know I've said it
before and I’ll say it again; the blade’s edge is the true technology that we
are concerned with. That’s not to say the other parts of the knife aren't as
important, but I like to look at the rest of a knife as a way to compliment the
edge I am using. Apart from just the aesthetic design of a knife; the guard,
handle and how all the pieces are attached is an important factor when
deciding what knife is the best for your purposes. So let’s take the plunge
one more time with fixed blade anatomy focusing on the guard, handle,
tang(s and beyond!

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FIXED BLADE ANATOMY

The Guard on a knife is located between the handle and the blade,
sandwiched between the ricasso and the handle. The guard’s purpose is to
literally guard your hand from slipping up the handle and onto the blade.
Just like anything else knife related, guards come in different shapes and
styles. Some are purely decorative, they line up perfectly with the handle
and offering no protection and some guards are meant purely for balance.
Guards that are intended to protect your hand will often have Quillions; a
section of the guard that extends past the handle to protect the knife users
hand from slipping onto the blade. Commonly, quillions found on outdoor
style knives will extend out to the front of the knife but quillions found on
more aggressive fighting or multipurpose blade will extend out from both the
front and back of the blade.

If a knife lacks a guard it may have a Bolster (not shown); a bolster is
usually found between the blade and the handle (although bolsters can be
found on different sections of the handle) and is often sandwiching the
blade’s tang. The Bolster can provide balance to a blade and is more
commonly found on full tang knives. Bolsters can also be used to “bolster”
or strengthen the weak points on a knife, such as where the blade ends and
the tang and handle begins. Bolster may also be shaped like a guard (with
quillions) to offer protection.

Next, we have the Handle. The handle of a knife is the portion you grip.
Handles come in all shapes and sizes and can be made from countless
materials and combinations. Handles are a very important aspect of a blade,
I’ve heard it said “The blade is what makes a knife; the handle is what sells
it”. How the handle is attached to a blade plays a large role in the actual
strength and durability of a knife.


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The Handle of a knife can be attached in several ways. This is done through
the Tang of a knife blade. The Tang is the stock material portion of the
blade steel that extends from the blade for the purpose of attaching the
handle and hardware. Tangs are an important factor when constructing a
blade; they will help determine overall weight, balance and usage of the
knife. There are several types of knife tangs, but they can be broken down
simply into two categories Full Tang and Partial Tang.

Full Tang (displayed above) - refers to a knife tang that extends the full
length and width of the handle and is often visible. Full tang constructed
knives generally form the handle by the use of Scale material. Scales refer
to two pieces of handle material that sandwich the tang between them and
are attached to the tang by adhesive and/or rivets /pins. Full Tang knife
construction is generally considered the most durable and solid knife
construction available and is intended for hard working knives that can take
a solid beating.
Skeletonized Tang

A tang that has portions of material removed
from the tang stock. Often found on knives with
full tang construction but without handle
material. Skeletonized tang construction is
popular on bare bones survival blades and neck knives. May feature a cord
wrapped handle.

Partial Tang refers to a knife tang that doesn’t fully extend and/or match
the width of the blade and handle material. Generally considered weaker
than Full Tangs, Partial Tangs have their place in the knife world and
generally produce much lighter knives. Partial Tangs can be broken down
further in sub categories.
Push Tang
A shortened tang that tapers after the

blade portion of a knife. Partial Tangs don’t
generally run the full length of the handle
and are pushed or forced into the handle material and secured with
adhesive.

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Hidden Tang
Very similar to a Push Tang, the

Hidden Tang tapers after the blade
portion and is attached to the handle
with adhesive and generally has no
outside evidence of its attachment. Hidden Tangs can also run longer than
the full length of the handle and can be secured by a pommel/butcap
through threading and screwing like a nut and bolt or by peening the end.

Rat Tail and Stick Tangs
Also known as a “false tang” is the
weakest of knife tangs. Rat tail tangs are
generally reserved for cheap or display
knives. Either a piece of steel welded to
the blade or a significant and abrupt
taper from the blade, rat tail tangs are to be avoided.

The final piece of anatomy for a fixed blade knife is the Pommel (or Butt
Cap) (not shown). Not every knife features a pommel, they are most often
found on hidden tang knives. A Pommel can serve multiple purposes aside
from a method to attach and secure a handle and guard, a pommel can be
used to add balance to a knife or it can even be used a striking surface.
The edge or grind on a knife is the true “technology” that allows us to use a
knife properly but in many cases the shape or profile of a knife blade can be
equally important. Much like the grind of knife the profile of a knife implies
a lot about the blades use and can also say a lot about culture, utility and
history of the knife you carry.
**”tip” and “point” are used interchangeably

The Simple/Normal Blade
A simple blade has a straight spine with a curving

edge that meets to form the tip of the knife, which is
on the same plane and parallel to the spine of the knife. The straight spine
of this knife allows the blade to be used with both hands for safely adding

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pressure. This also allows the user to concentrate the force of their cut to a
smaller area, which increases the cutting edge’s effectiveness. The simple
blade is a very strong blade type, these knife profiles are ideal for heavier
work such as batoning wood and cutting heavy rope or roots. The simple
blade is a must have knife for people trying to improve their sharpening
skills and knowledge.

Trailing Point Blade
A trailing point blade has a large curved edge and
the spine curves upward to meet the edge forming
the tip of the blade. The tip is generally found higher
than the handle in profile and gave rise to the name “trailing point”. The
curve of this blade allows for greater surface area of the edge (called a ‘belly’)
which aids in slicing, slashing and making long, even cuts. This type of
knife profile is most commonly used for fillet knives, but also seen in
slashing weapons. The large surface area of the edge combined with the
thin tip make it ideal for processing fish and other small wild life.

Clip Point Blade
A clip point blade is similar to the simple/normal
blade where it has a (mostly) straight spine. What
makes it different is that near the tip of the blade
the rest of the spine is “clipped” (has a section of the blade that is seemingly
removed) and forms the tip of the blade. The “clipped” section of the blade
can be either concave or straight and may even posses a false edge on the
spine which can be sharpened. This type of blade profile forms a much
finer, or needle like tip to the blade which makes it ideal for piercing or
cutting/slicing in tight spots. The tip of the blade is often either parallel to
the center of the blade or parallel to the spine of the blade. A clip point
blade with a tip that is parallel to the center of the blade has the advantage
of more control and force when piercing. Clip point blades are very popular
and can be found on a range of blades from pocket folders to large fix blade
hunting and fighting knives. The iconic American Bowie is a classic
example of a clip point blade.

Drop Point Blades
A drop point blade has a convex curve to the spine
as it approaches the tip of the blade. Or simply put,
the spine of the blade starts to “drop” towards the
tip of the blade where it meets the curve of the belly (edge) of the blade to

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form the tip. The drop point blade profile creates a blade with a strong,
robust tip that is easy to direct when cutting or piercing. Ideal for everyday
carry and simple chores, the drop point profile is very popular and used on
a variety of pocket knives and fixed blade knives. The popular Swiss Army
Knife and many chefs’ knives feature a classic drop point profile.

Spear Point Blade
A spear point blade is a symmetrically
pointed blade with a tip that is in line with the
center line of the blade's axis. Generally formed
with double edges, a spear point blade is primarily used for piercing and is
considered a thrusting weapon known as a dagger (although dagger is a
broad term used for many types of blades across many cultures). Many
modifications throughout the years have produced a variety of single and
double edge spear point blades on fix blades and folders but the design is
generally not practical for everyday carry and is primarily used on tactical or
fighting knives.

Needle Point Blade
A needle point blade can be considered a variation
of the spear point blade but the symmetrical blade
tapers significantly to form the needle like tip.
Examples of needle point blades include stilettos and the Arkansas
Toothpick.

Spey Point Blade
A spey point blade is a straight edge blade that has
a sudden, defined curve near the tip of the blade.
The spine of the knife is also mostly straight, but
near the tip of the blade the spine angles downward quickly to meet the
curving edge and forms the tip of the blade. This allows the tip of the blade
to be slightly obtuse and unlikely to pierce accidentally when doing fine
work. This blade type was originally used for speying animals but has
become popular in trapper style knives for skinning and dressing animals
due to the muted tip on the blade.

Tanto Blade
A tanto style blade, sometimes referred to as a chisel
point blade, follows the tradition of Japanese swords
and daggers. This single edge blade has a straight

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spine and a primarily straight edge until it approaches the tip of the blade.
Close to the tip of the blade, the edge angles upward to meet the spine at a
straight or slightly convex angle. This produces a very strong and durable
tip to the blade due to the blade thickness present at the tip, but also
slightly decreases its effectiveness for piercing. Tanto style blades have
become very popular for everyday carry folders and tactical fixed/folder
knifes. These blades can be difficult to sharpen due to the angle presented
at the tip of the blade but have found a home in modern knife culture as a
very popular blade type.

Sheepsfoot Blade
Sheepsfoot blades have a completely straight edge
with a spine that convexes down to meet the edge at
the “tip” of the blade. This design produces a very
safe knife with no actual “tip” to pierce with. Originally used to trim the
hooves on sheep, the sheepsfoot blade is popular for fine work such as
woodcarving or even electrical work. Sheepsfoot blades also have a long
history of being used on ships to cut rope because when a ship rocks
suddenly you are unlikely to stab yourself with the blade. Sheepsfoot
blades are great blades that don’t get enough use, the perfect blade type for
teaching wood carving, knife sharpening and knife skills for
newbies/children.

Hawkbill Blade
A hawkbill style blade is simply a blade that has a
concave cutting edge and a claw like shape.
Hawkbill blades don’t have much of a tip for piercing
but are ideal for cutting and carving, especially long
cuts like when installing carpet or linoleum. The shape of the blade and
cutting edge allows the hawkbill to grab material easily and reduces the risk
of accidently stabbing yourself if you slip up. Hawkbill blades also have a
long history of being used as a slashing weapon in eastern cultures. The
Hawkbill has also found resurgence as a defensive tool today with modern
tactical/fighting blades.

Although there are many, many variations of blades out there today, these
nine blade types cover the most common blade profile types you’ll find
today. These classic profiles are utilized worldwide and their uses honestly
depend on whose hand the knife is in. I personally really enjoy
simple/normal profile and drop point profile blades for my everyday carry

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and outdoors knives, but I also use a variety of blades for woodworking and
utility, including sheepsfoot blades as well as hawkbill blades. I suggest
finding what knife feels the most comfortable for you and works for your
purposes. Make sure to take other peoples advice with a grain of salt. The
knife you carry is a personal affair and only you can determine what blade
type you prefer. Make sure to bookmark this blog, email it to a friend or add
our RSS feed. Stay tuned as we explore the anatomy of knives in my next
post. Stay an Edge above the Rest!

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INSTRUCTION: Write the letter of the correct answer in a separate sheet of

paper.
1. A blade refers to each side of the blade, often used to refer to the
section separate from the grind but can be used to refer to each side
of the blade, including the grind.
a. Tip or Point
b. Cheek or Face
c. Spine
d. Grind or Bevel
2. Is the cutting surface of a blade that extends from point to heel. It’s
the sharp part! And also, the reason I have gainful employment.
a. Spine
b. Grind
c. Edge
d. Belly
3. A blade refers to the curved section of the edge leading up to the tip.
a. Belly
b. Heel
c. Plunge
d. Ricasso
4. Is the unsharpened section of a blade, closest to the guard/handle.

a. Belly
b. Heel
c. Plunge
d. Ricasso
5. Refers to a knife tang that doesn’t fully extend and/or match the
width of the blade and handle material.
a. Partial Tang
b. Push Tang
c. Hidden Tang
d. Rat Tail and Stick Tangs

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Answer Key 1.1-3
1. B – Cheek or Face
2. C – Edge
3. A – belly
4. D – Ricasso
5. A – Partial Tang

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Sharpen knife
1. Learn the different method in sharpening knife

2. The steps in sharpening knife in any method
Knife sharpening is the process of making a knife or similar

tool sharp by grinding against a hard, rough surface, typically a stone, or a
soft surface with hard particles, such as sandpaper. Additionally, a
leather razor strop, or strop, is often used to straighten and polish an edge.
Overview
The smaller the angle between the blade and stone, the sharper the knife
will be, but the less side force is needed to bend the edge over or chip it off.
The angle between the blade and the stone is the edge angle – the angle
from the vertical to one of the knife edges, and equals the angle at which the
blade is held. The total angle from one side to the other is called
the included angle – on a symmetric double-ground edge (a wedge shape),
the angle from one edge to the other is thus twice the edge angle. Typical
edge angles are about 20° (making the included angle 40° on a double-
ground edge).[1] The edge angle for very sharp knives can be as little as 10
degrees (for a 20° included angle). Knives that require a tough edge (such as
those that chop) may sharpen at 25° or more.
Different knives are sharpened differently according to grind (edge geometry)

and application. For example, surgical scalpels are extremely sharp but
fragile, and are generally disposed of, rather than sharpened, after
use. Straight razors used for shaving must cut with minimal pressure, and
thus must be very sharp with a small angle and often a hollow grind.
Typically these are stropped daily or more often. Kitchen knives are less
sharp, and generally cut by slicing rather than just pressing, and
are steeled daily. At the other extreme, an axe for chopping wood will be less
sharp still, and is primarily used to split wood by chopping, not by slicing,
and may be reground but will not be sharpened daily. In general, but not
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always, the harder the material to be cut, the higher (duller) the angle of the
edge.
The composition of the stone affects the sharpness of the blade (a finer
grain, usually, though not always, produces sharper blades), as does the
composition of the blade (some metals take and keep an edge better than
others). For example, Western kitchen knives are usually made of softer
steel and take an edge angle of 20–22°, while East Asian kitchen knives are
traditionally of harder steel and take an edge angle of 15–18°. The Western-
style kitchen knives are generally in the range of 52–58 on the Rockwell
scale, which denotes the relative hardness of a material.
Method
Knife sharpening proceeds in several stages, in order from coarsest (most
destructive) to finest (most delicate). These may be referred to either by
the effect or by the tool. Naming by effect, the stages are:
1. sharpening: removing metal to form a new edge

1. rough sharpening (using either water stones, oil stones, or
medium grits of sandpaper in the scary sharp method of
sharpening)
2. fine sharpening (using the same tools as above, but in finer
grits)
2. straightening: straightening the existing metal on the blade, but not
removing significant quantities of metal
3. polishing (also called stropping): giving a mirror finish, but not
significantly altering the edge.
 polishing may also be achieved by buffing a blade: instead of
moving the knife against a flat leather strop loaded with fine
abrasive, the knife is held still and a powered circular cloth wheel
is moved against the knife.
Named by tools, the same three stages are:

1. grinding (on a grinding wheel) or whetting (on a whetstone)
2. steeling, using a honing steel
3. stropping, on a razor strop or buffing on a wheel
The word "honing" is ambiguous, and may refer to either fine sharpening
(step 1.2) or straightening (step 2).

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The finest level of sharpening is done most frequently, while the coarser
levels are done progressively more rarely, and sharpening methods differ
between blades and applications.
For example, a straight razor used for shaving is stropped before each use,
and may be stropped part-way through use, while it will be fine sharpened
on a stone a few times per year, and re-ground on a rough stone after
several years.
By contrast, a kitchen knife is steeled before or after each use (and may be
steeled during heavy use, as by butchers), and sharpened on a stone a few
times per year.
Blade damage
Blades are damaged primarily by buckling – compressive force, from being

pressed into a hard object, such as bone, ice, or a hard cutting board – and
by bending, from sideways pressure. Both of these tend to roll the edge of a
blade, due to metal's ductile nature.
Blades may also be damaged by being corroded by acid (as when cutting
lemons or tomatoes) or by high temperatures and corrosive chemicals in a
dishwasher.
If a knife is used as a scraper, a pry-bar, or encounters hard particles in

softer materials, there may be a sideways load at the tip, causing bending
damage.[2]
Blade damage is avoided by:

 using an appropriate blade for the task – a thinner blade for more
delicate work, and a thicker blade whenever a thinner blade is not
required (e.g. a thinner blade might be used to cut fillets, butterfly steak
or roast for stuffing, or perform Mukimono, while a thicker one might be
used to slice or chop repeatedly, separate primal cuts of poultry or small
game, or scrape and trim fat from meat or hide, as these actions would
be more likely to cause unnecessary wear on a thinner blade.)
 using a soft cutting surface,
 straight cutting, with no side-to-side movement,
 immediate cleaning.
 oiling (with food grade oil if appropriate)

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Sharpen a Knife
Cutting with a dull knife can be dangerous. Having to work harder to slice
through whatever you’re cutting means you’re more likely to cut yourself.
Fortunately, it’s easy to sharpen a knife yourself with a whetstone, a honing
rod, or even a coffee mug.
If you want to sharpen a knife with a whetstone, hold the knife against the
rough side of the stone at an angle of about 17°-20°, or use an angle guide
to help hold the knife at a consistent angle. Grind the knife slowly
downwards against the stone continuously until you have ground about
halfway through the sharp end of the blade. Then, flip the knife over and
sharpen the other side. Finish by smoothing both sides of the blade on the
finer side of the whetstone. Keep reading to learn how to sharpen a knife
using a coffee mug!
Using a Whetstone or a Diamond Stone

Pick an angle to sharpen your knife. If
you already know what angle your knife
is sharpened at, you'll probably wish to
sharpen it at this angle again.
Sharpening at a different angle will take
significantly more time and may take a
few goes before any rough angles are
smoothed out.
 If you don't know the current angle, ask the manufacturer of your
knife or inquire at a knowledgeable knife shop to determine what
angle is appropriate for your knife.
 If you have to make a gut decision, choose an angle of 10° - 30° per
side. Shallower angles make a sharper edge that doesn't last as
long; steeper angles are more durable, so 17° - 20° is a good
compromise between the two.
Lubricate your whetstone or diamond

stone with a small amount of mineral oil.
Look for honing oil, a light kind of mineral
oil. Honing oil will both lubricate the
whetstone, making it easier for the blade of
the knife to pass over the stone, as well as

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keep the steel shavings (the by-product of sharpening) from clogging the
stone's pores.
 Check with the manufacturer's guidelines for your stone regarding

lubrication. The most common sharpening stones are carborundum
stones, and are designed to be used wet or dry, but are destroyed
when oiled. However, there are some stones that are specifically
designed for oil, and will generally be labeled as "oil stones".
Use an angle guide to control your edge's

angle, if available. A sharpening guide is a
small tool that's placed underneath the
knife in order to maintain a constant angle
when scraping the knife across the surface
of the stone.[2] Otherwise, you will have to
control the angle by hand, which is hard
and requires a well-formed perception of
angles.
 One of the most difficult aspects of sharpening a knife is getting the
angle right. To make this process a bit easier, try painting the very tip
of both sides of your blade with a sharpie pen. Then, throughout the
sharpening, inspect whether the marker is being removed during the
process.[3]
Start off on the rough grit side of the stone. Check the grit on your stone,
or the packaging that came with the stone, to identify which is which. In
general, whetstones and diamond stones each have different grits on either
side. The rough grit side is used to grind the steel down, while the fine grit
side is used to sharpen or hone the knife. The grinding process comes first,
so you start on the rough grit side.
For a symmetrical edge, sharpen the knife by dragging it across the

stone in the opposite direction you would move it to slice a thin layer
off the stone. This allows a burr to form and prolongs the stone's life.
Continue grinding at this angle until your grind goes roughly halfway
through the steel. This doesn't need to be precise, just well-estimated. For
a one-sided edge ("scandi grind", "chisel grind", etc.), do not flip the knife
when instructed to do so by this article.

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Flip the knife over and sharpen the other side of the blade until you
create a new edge. The easiest way to determine that you have removed
enough metal is to sharpen until you have raised a burr, a feature that steel
will naturally form when one bevel is ground until it meets another.
 Burrs will generally be too small to see, but you can feel it
scraping/catching on your thumb if you stroke away (dull side of the
knife to the sharp) from the edge. Finer stones produce smaller
burrs, but they are still there.
Flip the stone over and begin sharpening one side the blade, this time
using the finer grit. Your goal here is to smooth over and eliminate the
burrs created by sharpening the knife over the coarser grit. This transforms
the blade edge from a ground edge into a finer, honed edge.
Flip the knife and begin sharpening the one side of the knife on the
fine grit side of the stone. Again, make sure you hit both sides of the knife
with the fine grit.
Begin alternating swipes on the fine grit. Sharpen one side of the knife
with a single stroke, then immediately flip the knife and sharpen the other
side. Do this several times for the best result.
If you wish, further polish or even strop the edge to the desired
sharpness. This makes the edge better suited for "push cutting" (cutting
directly into materials, pushing straight down without sliding the blade
across the object) but generally impairs slicing ability: without the
"microscopic serrations" left by grinding with a stone, the blade tends to not
bite into things like tomato skins.
Using a Honing Rod (Sharpening Steel)
Use a honing rod in between sharpenings

to keep your blade from degrading. The
honing rod, or simply "steel" as they're often
called, aren't normally used to resuscitate a
dull blade from the proverbial graveyard.
Instead, they're often used to keep knives
sharp in between use.
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 Using a honing rod regularly delays the need to use a whetstone or
a diamond. This is a good thing: Using whetstones and diamonds
shave metal from the edge of your blade, reducing the knife's
lifespan. The less you use your whetstone, the longer your knives
will thrive.
o What does a honing rod do? A honing rod realigns the
metal in a blade, massaging small nicks, indentations,
and flat spots away. Compared to a whetstone, it does not
remove any significant amount of metal from the blade of
the knife.
Hold the honing rod in your non-dominant hand. The rod should be held
at a comfortable angle facing away from your body. The rod tip should be
elevated above the rod handle.
Hold the knife firmly in your dominant hand. Your four fingers should be
holding onto the handle, while your thumb can be placed on the spine of the
knife, far away from the blade edge.
Hold your knife at approximately 20° in relation to the honing

rod. Your angle doesn't need to be exact, just approximate. Whatever angle
you decide to choose, or unwittingly end up choosing, make sure to
maintain the same angle throughout the honing process. Changing the
angle used during the honing process won't smooth out the metal in the
blade as much as using a consistent angle will.[4]
Maintaining a 20° angle, move the knife across the top half of the
honing rod.Try to start this motion with the heel of the knife touching the
rod and end it with the tip of the knife touching the rod.
 In order to master this process, you'll need to move your arm, your
hand, and your wrist. What's especially important to get the right
action is moving the wrist. Without moving the wrist, you won't be
able to sweep the entire blade — heel to tip — across the honing
rod.
Maintaining a 20° angle, move the knife across the bottom half of the
honing rod. Using the same sweep of your arm, hand, and wrist, gently
move the knife across the lower half of the rod. Use only as much pressure
as the weight of the knife itself. After completing both a top- and bottom
sweep, you've done one revolution.

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Revision # 01
Do a total of 6 - 8 revolutions with your honing rod before each use of
the knife.
Using a Coffee Mug for Quick Results
Place an old coffee mug upside down so

that the bottom of the mug is exposed
to the air. In a pinch, a coffee mug can
serve as a surprisingly effective sharpening
tool if you don't have any fancy equipment.
The ceramic material of a mug is a
material coarse enough to get good results.
Indeed, some honing rods even use
ceramic material to keep a blade homed in
between sharpenings.
Maintaining a 20° angle, sweep one side of the blade across the grit of
the coffee mug several times.
Maintaining a 20° angle, repeat the process using the other side of the
knife.
Alternate sides of the blade for the final two or three sweeps. Take one
side of the blade and run it across the coffee mug, then turn the blade
around and hit the opposite side. Repeat this pattern several times.
Finish the process with 6 - 8 swipes of your blade across a honing

rod. Smooth out any burrs or kinks in the metal with several swipes on your
trusty honing rod.

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INSTRUCTION: Write the letter of the correct answer in a separate sheet of

paper.
1. Why should you start with the rough grit side of your stone when you
sharpen your knife?
a. It will help you set the angle.
b. You have to grind the steel down first.
c. You have to clean off the blade first.
d. It will help you determine how dull your blade is.
2. Why is it better to use a honing rod than a whetstone or a diamond

stone?
a. A honing rod will make your knife sharper.
b. A honing rod lasts longer than a whetstone or a diamond stone.
c. A honing rod doesn't remove as much metal from your knife.
d. A honing rod doesn't alter the angle of your knife.
3. Why is a coffee mug an effective way to sharpen your knife?

a. It is hard.
b. It is smooth
c. It is the right angle.
d. It is made of ceramic.
4. Blade damage is avoided by:

a. using a soft cutting surface, straight cutting, with no side-to-
side movement,
b. immediate cleaning, oiling (with food grade oil if appropriate)
c. Both A & B
d. None of the above
5. Why do we use a horning oil in sharpening knife using a sharpening

stone.
a. making it easier for the blade of the knife to pass over the stone,
b. well keep the steel shavings from clogging the stone's pores
c. Both A & B
d. None of the above

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Revision # 01
Answer Key 1.1-4
1. B - You have to grind the steel down first.

2. C - A honing rod doesn't remove as much metal from your knife.
3. D - It is the right angle.
4. C - Both A & B
5. C - Both A & B

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Revision # 01
Job Sheet 1.1-4
Title: Sharpen Knives

Performance Objective:
Given the materials and equipment you are ask to demonstrate

how to sharpen knifes using a Whetstone or a Diamond Stone
within 2 hours
Supplies/Materials:
 Knife
 Whetstone or a diamond stone
 Angle guide
 PPE
 mesh aprons
 cut resistant gloves
 arm guards
Procedure:
o Pick an angle to sharpen your knife.

o Lubricate your whetstone or diamond stone with a small amount of
mineral oil.
o Use an angle guide to control your edge's angle, if available.
o Start off on the rough grit side of the stone.
o For a symmetrical edge, sharpen the knife by dragging it across the
stone in the opposite direction you would move it to slice a thin
layer off the stone.
o Continue grinding at this angle until your grind goes roughly
halfway through the steel.
o Flip the knife over and sharpen the other side of the blade until you
create a new edge.
o Flip the stone over and begin sharpening one side the blade, this
time using the finer grit.
o Flip the knife and begin sharpening the one side of the knife on the
fine grit side of the stone.
o Begin alternating swipes on the fine grit.
o If you wish, further polish or even strop the edge to the desired
sharpness.
Assessment Method:
Demonstration and questioning

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Revision # 01
Performance Criteria Checklist for Job Sheet 1.1-4
CRITERIA YE
NO
Did you S
 Pick an angle to sharpen your knife.

 Lubricate your whetstone or diamond stone with a small
amount of mineral oil.
 Use an angle guide to control your edge's angle, if
available.
 Start off on the rough grit side of the stone.
 For a symmetrical edge, sharpen the knife by dragging it
across the stone in the opposite direction you would move
it to slice a thin layer off the stone.
 Continue grinding at this angle until your grind goes
roughly halfway through the steel.
 Flip the knife over and sharpen the other side of the blade
until you create a new edge.
 Flip the stone over and begin sharpening one side the
blade, this time using the finer grit.
 Flip the knife and begin sharpening the one side of the
knife on the fine grit side of the stone.
 Begin alternating swipes on the fine grit.
 If you wish, further polish or even strop the edge to the
desired sharpness.

Page 42 of 43
Revision # 01
References:
https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Identify-the-Parts-of-Your-Knife-
W64.aspx
http://mintrac-whs.com.au/wp-content/uploads/Knife-handling.pdf
http://www.jayfisher.com/Knife_Anatomy_Parts_Names_Definitions.htm
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knife_sharpening

Page 43 of 43
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HOW TO USE THIS COMPETENCY-BASED LEARNING

Welcome to the module in Handle and Sharpen Knives. This module

No. Unit of Competency Module Title Code

1 Handle and sharpen Handling and sharpening PFB751335

2 Perform initial preparation Performing initial PFB751336

3 Prepare carcass Preparing carcass PFB751337

4 Perform final procedures Performing final procedures PFB751338

Date Developed: Document No. PFB751335

Qualification Title : Slaughtering Operation (Large Animals) NCII

Unit of Competency : Handle and sharpen knives

Module Title : Handling and sharpening knives

Upon completion of this module, you must be able to:

LO1 - Sharpen knives

1. Knives are sharpened according to workplace requirements

Date Developed: Document No. PFB751335

1. Knives are sharpened according to workplace requirements

Students/Trainees must be provided with the following:

Trainees will measure the underpinning knowledge and skill and

Date Developed: Document No. PFB751335

Evaluates own performance using the

Date Developed: Document No. PFB751335

After reading this Information Sheet you should be able to:

1. Identify and understand the critical risk in handling knifes

Identifying the risk:

Knives are important tools in

The most important thing to

Likewise, an operator using a blunt knife that needs to be forced through

Potential impact of the risk:

The number of injuries involving knives is a major concern in the meat

 cuts to the non-knife hand or arm (most common)

Date Developed: Document No. PFB751335

Supervisors have responsibilities in implementing and monitoring all

 instructing workers in safe and healthy work practices

In summary, supervisors should provide relevant and practical information,

Preventing the risk:

Complacency is a common cause of knife accidents. Workers become so

Apply the following rules to avoid injury.

 When using a sharpening stone, make sure the stone is on a slip-

Personal protective equipment is a vital part of knife safety and workers

Date Developed: Document No. PFB751335

 cut resistant gloves

Date Developed: Document No. PFB751335

Effectiveness Types of Examples

Most effective Elimination Redesign the workplace to remove the

Substitution Replace old, blunt knives with well-

Isolation Redesign the workplace to minimize

Engineering Provide sufficient work space for each

Administrative Train staff in knife safety and

Least Effective Personal Wear cut-resistant gloves on the knife

Date Developed: Document No. PFB751335

Instruction: Write TRUE if the statement is correct and FALSE if it is

1. When using a sharpening stone, make sure the stone is on a slippery

Date Developed: Document No. PFB751335

Date Developed: Document No. PFB751335

After reading this Information Sheet you should be able to:

2. Examine and learn the knifes anatomy

Part of a Knife DescribedKnives are a