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MACHINING the RAW AR15 UPPER RECEIVER By: Mark Litton

7075 T6 Aluminum Alloy

I would suggest that the builder read each complete UNIT of information before starting to
machine. Building from a raw forging is not for the faint of heart or the novice machinist.

Information Format

Units, 1-2-3, etc. Sub-Units 1A-1B-1C, 2A-2B-2C and so on.

Each Unit will begin with a Unit #, Title, Tool List, Setup, Instructions, Photos, and terminate
with a Check List. If there are inquiries, referring to a specific Unit or Sub-Unit will speed the
process.

Orientation or How the upper is viewed and referenced.

Drivers Side—left hand side of upper, flat top up, Viewed from stock to barrel end
Passenger Side--- right hand side of upper, flat top up, viewed from stock to barrel end.
Forward or Front End. Thread Boss or Barrel end of the upper.
Aft or Back End Stock end of the upper.
Lower Deck. The area between the two mounting lugs.
Flat Top. It is an A4.

TABLE of CONTENTS

UNIT 1 …………… Introduction and Machining Deck Reference Surfaces

UNIT 2 …………… Machining Reference Surfaces on the Flat Top
UNIT 3 …………… Locating and Machining the Thread Boss Center
UNIT 4 …………… Machining the Lower Deck and Lugs to Completion
UNIT 5 …………… Boring Fixtures, Drawings and Pertinent Photos
UNIT 6 …………… Line Boring the Upper, Fixture #2
UNIT 7 …………… Machining the Inside of the Lower Deck
UNIT 8 …………… Machining Un-Machined Zone and spotting the forward assist.
UNIT 9 …………… Machining the Axial Charging Handle Slot at Aft End Flat Top.
UNIT 10 ………….. Machining the AR15 Raw Upper Ejection Port
UNIT 11 ………….. Machining the Axial Radius Between the Dust Cover Bearings
UNIT 12 …………. Machining for the Forward Assist
UNIT 13…………. Machining the Forward Assist Retention Spring Pin Hole
UNIT 14 …………. Machining the Bolt Carrier Key Counter-Bore
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UNIT 15 …………. Machining the Radius on the Forward Mounting Lug

UNIT 16 …………. Machining the Flat Top to the Final Dimensions.

Pictorial Index

1 H. 0.125x1.375x6 parallels supporting the raw upper……………………………..……...Pg. 5

1 I. Indicating the transverse……………………………………………… …………...……..Pg. 6
1 M. Machining reference surfaces on the lugs and lower deck……………………........ Pg. 7
2 D. Machining the flat top 80 percent flat and removing equal amounts from sides.....Pg. 8
3 B. The thread boss has been machined flat, drilled, reamed and chamfered……….…Pg. 9
3 G. Temporary dowel inserted into the newly machined thread boss………………..…. Pg. 10
5 C. Fixture #1, alignment setup in the American Lathe………………………………..... Pg. 14
5 F. The upper in the boring fixture & long nose center entering the unfinished bore... Pg. 15
5 H. Measuring from the face of the thread boss to the outside of the forward
mounting pin. The measurement is 0.661 from the face to the center of the pin. To the
outside—0.536. The piece of Delrin is to hold the micrometer in place while I took
the picture. …………………………………………………………………………………...…. Pg.16
5 I. Position of the facing tool, the machined forward surfaces, the dowel inserted in
the forward mounting lug. The drill chuck is used to insert and remove the dowel.
Remember to remove the chuck and dowel pin before proceed……………………...….... Pg. 16
5 K. Threading towards the tail stock. Machine operating…………………………….... Pg. 17
6 A. Fixture # 2, Line Boring the Bolt Carrier Tunnel in the Upper…………………... .Pg. 19
7 E. Holes as they appear for mass material removal …………………………………... .Pg. 21
7 I. Machining the aft end of the charging handle tunnel. …………………………..…..Pg. 22
7 J. Machining the recess behind the aft lug…………………………………………..….. .Pg. 22
7 M. Machining the counter-milled slot……………………………………………………… Pg. 23
7 N. Machining the inside stops for the magazine. ……………………………………….. Pg. 23
7 Q. Machining the forward end of the Magazine Access Slot in the lower deck…….....Pg. 24
7 S. Machining the counter milled slot in the forward right side of the lower deck….....Pg. 25
7U. Machining the charging handle raceway or slot…………………………………..…...Pg. 25
8 A. Machining the UMZ………………………………………………………………….........Pg. 26
8 E. Locating 0.000, 0.000 and spotting for the Forward Assist……………………....... .Pg. 27
9 C. Machining the Axial Charging Handle Slot Under the Aft End Flat Top………..….Pg. 28
9 E. Machining the slot for the Charging Handle Latch………………………………..... .Pg. 28
9 K. Machining the Aft Radius………………………………………………………………….Pg. 30
10 B. Machining the Ejection Port………………………………………………..…….……..Pg. 31
11 E. Aligning the receiver to vertical is position 0.000,0.000……………………………..Pg. 33
11 F. Centering the bore—notice the clamp positions……………………………………….Pg. 34
11 G. The cutter, extension, and upper in preparation of machining. …………………….Pg. 34
11 J. Gas tube and vent holes. …………………………………………………………..Pg. 35
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11 M. Barrel alignment Slot……………………………………………….…………………...Pg. 36

12 C. Locating forward assist center. The Bausch and Lomb magnifier was a gift from
my brother and is at least 45 years old. ……………………………………………………...Pg. 37
12 D. Milling Forward assist 0.312 bore……………………………………………………...Pg. 37
12 E. Counter milling for the forward assist. …………………………………….……..Pg. 38
13 B. Orienting the Upper on the milling table………………….……………………………Pg. 39
13 C. Locating the face of the Forward Assist structure…………………………….……...Pg. 39
13 E. Drilling the Through Hole for the Forward Assist Retention Pin…………….….…Pg. 40
13 F. Trying the Forward Assist for Fit…………………………………………….….……..Pg. 40
14 B. Machining for the bolt carrier Key clearance……………………………….….……..Pg. 41
16 D. Machining the axial groove below the flat top………………………………….…….Pg. 43
16 N. Machining the Under Bevel with the Dovetail Cutter………………………..…...Pg. 45
16 P. Machining the Top Bevel of the Accessory Rail………………………………..…….Pg. 45
16 R. Machining the Accessory Stops……………………………………………………..…..Pg. 46

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UNIT 1. Introduction and Machining Deck Reference Surfaces

1 A. Giving credit where credit is due. I started with instructions by Mr. RAY BRANDES
while I was machining my first AR15 Raw LOWER RECEIVER. Well thought out and
methodical, thanks Mr. Brandes. I made the supposition that if I could machine a functional and
esthetically pleasing AR 15 LOWER-from a raw forging, I could do the same with a raw upper.
Alas, no complete instructions—how hard could it be. Yeah, right. My intention is NOT to
produce a “Ghost Gun” but to somewhat satisfy my need to build things. I have a machine shop
for other purposes, which, doubles as; my wife puts it— a man cave play house. If one’s
intention is to save money, forget it. Be-that-as-it-may, you will know the AR15 Upper
Receiver, geometrically, as well as anyone--- when finished. I’m not a purist, I use a DRO.
Tolerances can be found on several of the drawings that I used as a reference. You will find
differences and therefore the use of commonsense is sometimes necessary. If there are
disagreements with my methods, or dimensions---constructive criticism is welcome. If you have
an agenda of your own---keep it there.

1 B.
Before starting: Know that if you plan to have an accurately machined upper that there are a
number of relationships to consider:
1. The bore of the upper must be concentric.
2. The axis of the bore should be parallel with the lower deck.
3. The axis of the bore should be parallel with the flat top.
4. The face of the thread boss and the forward face of the flat top, and lug faces, should be
perpendicular to the bore of the upper.
5. The distance between the centers of the take-down-pin holes is 6.375
6. The axis of the take-down-pin holes needs to be at right angles to the axis bore.
7. The cheeks of the lugs need to be perpendicular to the lower deck.
8. The bottoms of the take down lugs should be parallel to the bore of the upper.

1 C.
I do not provide detailed instructions for tramming your machine or aligning a milling
vise. I will, however, present a reminder that the mill must be trammed, the milling vise
MUST be aligned along the face of the stationary jaw and the tops of both jaws must be
parallel to the table and perpendicular to the quill. Imperative.

1 D.
All of the forgings that I have dealt with have a common flaw. That is to say the thread
boss should not be used as the center of the bore. Using the raw thread boss as the center
MAY result in an error of at least a 0.035 shift in the area that allows magazine access and
trigger hammer access to the upper. The “X” (0.000) center of the bore should be located

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using the BODY of the forging. In this case the body is identified as the flat sides or driver
and passenger sides just above and perpendicular to the soon to be lower deck.

1 E.
The following is a list of the structures or planes that must be machined flat and parallel before
the center of the upper bore is located.
1. The flat top
2. The lower deck
3. The lower flats on the mounting lugs
4. The cheeks of the mounting lugs.
5. The take down pin holes .

1 F. Tools:
1. A Six inch, aligned, heavy milling vise, both stationary face and the tops of both jaws.
2. Two 0.125 x 1.375 x 6 inch parallels
3. Two 0.500x 1.500 x 6 inch parallels
4. One Vee block 1.25x1.25x1.25 inches
5. Dial Test Indicator
6. 0.250 end mill, standard LOC

1 G SETUP:
Mount the upper with the raw flat top down and shoulder the forging on two 0.125 x 6 (photo
1H) parallels pressed against both inside jaws of the milling vise. The thread boss is on the left.
The parallels prevent the upper from moving down during machining, providing a ledge on
which the raw flat top will rest. Clamp the upper in the vise only snuggly at first. Caution,
experience, and SANE judgment should be used whenever clamping anything in a heavy
milling vise. I have not experienced movement in any of my setups.

Photo by Mark Litton

1 H. 0.125x1.375x6 parallels supporting the raw upper

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Photo by Mark Litton

1 I. Indicating the transverse

1 J.
Tap the upper snug against the parallels with a soft face hammer and indicate to horizontal
along the axis to as close as possible between the raw mounting lugs. After four different
forgings, a reading of 0.002-0.003 is easy to obtain with little or no movement up from the
parallels. Excellent for now.

1 K.
Place a 1.25x1.25x1.25 inch vee block along the axis of the upper, straddling the forging
seam. Place two (to overcome the spring tension on the indicator contact point) 6x1/2x1.500
parallels on top of the vee block, at a right angle to the axis of the upper’s theoretical bore.
Indicate as far as possible on either side (photo 1G) of the forging seam (about 1.5 inches).
Readings of 0.002-0.003 are acceptable. Indicate and tap the lugs in a direction to produce the
best reading along the top of the parallel. Repeat both indicator steps and adjust if necessary. I
cannot stress this alignment process enough. Make sure the upper is resting on the thin
parallels and that the vise is tight (20 ft/lbs). If you can move the upper while in the vise, by
hand, it is not nearly secure enough. It will be very difficult to distort the raw flat top at this
point. The reference surfaces, soon to be created, will be used EXTENSIVELY during this
build.

1 L.
Establish a temporary forging center, X 0.00. Edge find the distance between the inside raw
faces of the mounting lugs and divide by 2. The distance should be approximately 5.722 divided
by 2 or +/-2.8612 or X, 0.000. Find the Y 0.000 by touching off on both sides of the area along
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the forging that parallels the opening for the trigger hammer—it will be one of the thinnest
portions of the forging’s lower deck just to the inside of the aft mounting lug—about 0.880
wide—divide by 2, the center would be +/- 0.440 or Y, 0.000. EQUAL amounts from the Y,
0.000 will be made to clean up EACH side of the cheeks. With light passes, machine about an
80% clean face on the inside of both lugs—equal amounts from the X 0.000. Machine the
driver and passenger side cheeks of the mounting lugs, equally to 80% clean. Machine the tops
of the lugs about 80% clean, and machine the lower deck of the upper about 80% clean,
including PAST the passenger and driver side cheeks—both sides. The lower deck should
be entirely on one plane. These are not finished dimensions, they are for reference only—
They are VERY, VERY important references. This process will make your life easier—I
promise.

Photo by Mark Litton

1 M. Machining reference surfaces on the lugs and lower deck

1 N. Check List:
1.____ Aligned the lower deck of the upper both axially and transversely.
2. ____Machined the lower deck (80% clean), including the narrow shoulders along the
outer cheeks of the passenger and drivers side of the mounting lugs. The lower deck
should be one temporary plane from end to end. Milling the lower deck of the upper may
generate cuts into the unfinished thread boss. Not to worry, the thread boss is sufficiently
oversized to cleanup during threading and finishing.)
3. ____Machined the inside faces (to 80% clean) of the mounting lugs, equally from a
temporary center, X 0.00.
4. ____Machined the passenger and driver side cheeks of the mounting lugs to 80%, with
each cheek face equidistance from the Y 0.00.
5. ____Machined the tops of the mounting lugs to the same elevation from the lower deck,
to 80% clean.

1 O. Measurement Notes:
Measure and record the following:
1. The temporary width of the mounting lugs ____________.
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2. The temporary width of the flat top ____________.

3. The temporary height of the mounting lugs from the temporary deck
_________________.
4. The narrow width of the forging body (around 0.880) ____________.
5. The wide width of the forging body (around 1.094) _______.

BREAK the SETUP

UNIT 2. Machining Reference Surfaces on the Flat Top

2 A. Tools:
1. 0.250 end mill, standard LOC
2. Edge Finder
3. 0-1 micrometer
4. 0-1 depth micrometer

2 B. SETUP:
Remove any burrs left from machining and the two 0.125x1.375x6 parallels---they will not be
used again. Locate (location by proxy) the face of the stationary jaw of the vise, and zero
the Y axis. Recall the thickness (0.646 approx.) of the reference machined lugs and divide by 2-
---the center of the forging or around 0.323- at this point, Zero the “Y” axis and move the quill
up from the forging. The “Y” 0.00 will be used to locate and machine equal amounts from the
cheeks of the flat top of the raw upper. Life will be nice.

2 C.
Flip the upper and with the lower deck down, slightly clamp the mounting lugs between the vise
jaws. The jaws of the vise will bear on about ½ of each lug. Tap the upper flat against the tops
of the vise jaws and tighten to 20 ft/lbs.

Photo by Mark Litton

2 D. Machining the flat top 80 percent flat and removing equal amounts from sides.
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2 E. Check List
YOU SHOULD HAVE COMPLETED THE FOLLOWING:
1. _____Flat top has been machined 80% flat
2. _____Passenger and driver cheeks of the flat top have been made flat and parallel from
the center of the forging (Referenced from the “Y” temporary center.)

BREAK the SETUP –Remove Burrs

UNIT 3. Locating and Machining the Thread Boss Center

3 A. Tools:
1. 6x8 right angle plate or a piece of 0.750x6x8 inch piece of flat plate mounted in the
milling vise.
2. 8” machinist square
3. #3 or 0.250 combination center, countersink drill
4. 15/64 jobber length drill
5. 0.250 reamer—short shank helps O.A. L. 3.5
6. 0.625 end mill---preferably 4 flute, 0.625 LOC
7. 90-120 degree chamfer tool, not hand held.
Photo by Mark Litton

3 B. The thread boss has been machined flat, drilled, reamed and chamfered.

3 C. Setup:
Remove, as much as practical, the forging seam on each side of the raw thread boss to facilitate
alignment. The forward end up, secured with two to three 4.5” Kant twist clamps. Make sure
the aft end of the upper rests on the milling table.

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3 D.
The forging, in this position, is more likely to move if machining is done along the X axis.
Machine the thread boss across the Y axis flat with a 0.250 end mill (less torque) to minimize
the chance of movement.

3 E.
Locate one of the sides of the pre-machined flat top or the cheeks of the lugs.
Divide by two and enter this point as X 0.00—this will be your “X” zero, no matter what the
indicator presents. With an indicator (I used a co-axial), zero as close as practical, the raw
outside diameter of the thread boss. You have now found your “Y” zero. I found that the “X”
was off by 0.030-0.035 on one occasion-later ruined my day. Be that as it may, the center of the
thread boss, relative to the center of the body of the forging has been located. Think about
this action carefully.

3 F.
Taking little more than 0.010-0.015 per pass, mill the face of the thread boss about 90% flat.
Chuck up a #3 center drill and spot the position. Remove the center drill and chuck a 15/64
drill--machine approximately 1.125 deep measured from the milled face of the thread boss.
Remove the drill and chuck up a 0.250 reamer and machine to the bottom of the pilot hole.
Remove the reamer and chuck up a sharp 0.625 (preferably a four flute) end mill and carefully
cut down about 0.437-0.500, measured from the face of the thread boss. Remove the end mill
and put a slight chamfer (90-120 degrees x 0.032) will be fine. With a smaller chamfer tool
machine a slight (0.032) chamfer on the bottom of the 0.250 reamed hole counter bore. These
counter-bored and chamfered surfaces will be used for alignment in the lathe. Preserve it-
--no dings.

Photo by Mark Litton

3 G. Temporary dowel inserted into the newly machined thread boss

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Remove the chamfer tool and push a 3”x 0.250 ground steel dowel to the bottom. I use this
dowel in this position only ONCE for preliminary alignment purposes. Use a small, hand
held, drill chuck to clamp and remove the dowel by hand-if necessary.

3 H. Check List:

1. _____Located the X 0.00 as referenced from the cheeks of the flat top.
2. _____Located the Y 0.00 as referenced from the raw OD of the thread boss.
3. _____Milled the face of the thread boss 80-90% flat.
4. _____Located and reamed a 0.250 x 1.25 hole in the face of the thread boss.
5. _____Milled and chamfered a counter bore into the face of the thread boss.
6. _____Inserted a 0.250x3 steel dowel into the hole in the face of the thread boss.

BREAK the SETUP

UNIT 4. Machining the Lower Deck and Lugs to Completion.

To make life easier when LINE BORING the upper to its final dimension, machine
the temporary flat top to 2.025, measured from the finished height of the lower
deck. It will fit nicely in the line boring jig ON MY LATHE, with just a few thin
shims to adjust proper elevation for boring. The distance from the top of the deck
of the compound to the center of the boring bar on my lathe is 1.906. When using
another lathe, the distance between the deck of the compound and the center of the
boring must be taken into account. I line bored at 132 rpm, 0.0065 feed with a DOC
of 0.003 (0.006) per pass. The author likes the bore finish and fit—0.998 I.D. The
bore was parallel with the deck and flat top within 0.002 over the length of the
upper.

4 A. Tools:
1. 0.250 end mill, 0.625 LOC
2. edge finder
3. 1.125x.500x6.00 parallel
4. #3 center drill or 0.250
5. 15/64 twist drill, jobber length
6. 0.250 chucking reamer (shortened to 3.5” is better)

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4 B. SETUP:
Lightly clamp the reference machined flat top of the upper between the jaws of the milling vise
and resting on one 0.500x1.250x6 parallel. Tap flat with a soft face hammer. Tighten the vise to
20 ft/lbs.

Find the following:

1. VERTICAL center of the forging referencing the 0.250 dowel inserted into the thread boss.
The radius of the dowel MUST be included in the calculations. Z, 0.000
2. Locate the center between the two INSIDE faces of the
mounting lugs. X, 0.000
3. Locate the center, Y, 0.00 referencing the sides of the mounting lug or the newly inserted
dowel.

These Three (3) measurements Will provide 0.000, 0.000, 0.000

4 C.
From “Z” move the table down to -0.750 “Z” and incrementally machine the entire deck to
-0.625. -0.625”is the finished deck height measured from the center of the bore (your dowel
reference.)

Re-affirm the temporary horizontal center (“X” 0.000) between the inside faces of the two lugs.
While machining the deck to height, also machine the two inside faces of the lugs. The inside
finished dimension is 5.924. Therefore when the horizontal center is found, mill in both
directions (inside the lugs—0.250 cutter) – 2.837, 000, - 0.625, and 2.837, 0.00, - 0.625 . Also
finish the driver and passenger side of the lugs with coordinates (X will be end to end), -0.373, -
0.625 and (X will be end to end), 0.373, -0.625. While milling one of the aft lug cheeks to
the finished dimension, go to 3.549, 0.373,-0.625 then to 3.549 -0.373, -0.625 and mill, in
one pass, the aft end of the aft lug to the finished dimension. It will also ensure that the
deck is milled to a single plane. When finished machining the deck, fore and aft lug cheeks,
fore and aft lug INSIDE faces, lower the table to 0.00, 0.00, -1.096 and mill the bottoms of both
fore and aft lugs.
The forward face of the forward lug is not finished at this time. It will be finished in the
lathe.

4 D. Check List:
1. _____ Machined the lower deck of the upper to the finished dimension
2. _____ Machined the inside faces of the lugs to the finished dimension
3. _____ Machined the cheeks of the lugs to the finished dimension
4. _____ Machined the aft face of the aft lug to the finished dimension
5. _____ Machined the tops of the lugs to the finished dimension

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The forward face of the forward lug is finished in the lathe.

BREAK the SETUP

4 E. Machining the Holes in the Lugs

4 E. Tools:
1. 15/64 drill
2. #3 center drill
3. 0.250 reamer

4 F. Setup:
Both lug mounting holes are drilled at this time. The forward hole will be used to determine
the face of the thread boss and the face of the flat top in the lathe.
Mount the upper with the flat top reference against the movable jaw and supported from
underneath by a 0.500x1.125x6 parallel. Half of each lug will be against the stationary jaw.
While tightening (15 ft/lb) the vise, tap the sides of the upper firmly against the parallel. There
should be nothing below the mounting lugs. If pre-machined properly, there should be little
need to re-check the alignment.

4 G.
Find the inside center between the fore and aft lugs. Once the center is located, make that point
“X” 0.00.
Find the face of the deck and make that “Y” 0.00

The distance between the two mounting pin holes is 6.375 divided by 2 will give a distance of
3.1875, 0.250 and -3.1875, 0.250 from the “X” 0.00. The distance from the face of the deck to
the center of the pin-holes is 0.250. Therefore, spot the first mounting lug hole at 3.1875, 0.250,
and the second at -3.1875, 0.250. Remove the spotting drill and drill a 15/64 hole through each
lug. Install a 0.250 reamer and ream the forward pin hole through. The aft pin hole is
enlarged by 0.008 equally from 3.1875, 0.250 along the “X” axis. I chucked a 0.250 mill and
moved to the following coordinates, 3.1795, 0.250, and then to 3.1955, 0.250. Plunge at these
coordinates.

BREAK the SETUP

UNIT 5. Boring Fixtures, Drawings and Pertinent Photos

5 A. Tools:
1. Boring Fixture #1
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2. Dead Center
3. Live center, a long nosed center that will fit inside the 0.625 counter bore and rest on
the 0.250 bore.
4. Short Boring Bar 1.000 minimum stick-out, 0.625 minimum bore.
5. 0.625 drill bit with 8 inch LOC
6. 0.9687 drill bit with 8 inch LOC. I ground the point on mine to 135 degrees. Just me.
7. Form threading insert to thread NEAR shoulder. Example: Aloris CXA-8 holder with a
P10 insert in the top position.
8. Cutting bit for machining to shoulder
9. Screw Pitch Gauge---18 tpi
10. 1-2 inch outside micrometer
11. 0-1 inch depth micrometer
12. 1 inch travel, dial test indicator

5 B. Setup:
In my case, a personally restored 1946 --14/18x30 American Pacemaker, Ahh---AMERICAN
Iron. Install the fixture and upper in the chuck and align—roughly. Remove the 0.250 dowel
placed into the thread boss bore—easily removed with a drill chuck- by hand. Clamp the upper,
lugs down. Adjust the fixture lug stop to allow about 0.094 of the forward lug to stick-out.
Mount dead center in the end of the upper and the other end of the center in a live center
mounted in the tailstock.

Photo by Mark Litton

5 C. Fixture #1, alignment setup in the American Lathe.

It should be as above, fixture in lathe chuck, upper in fixture, dead center in upper, and live
center in tailstock—end to end. Make sure the apparatus and the upper are well secured.

The set screws on the boring fixture are lightly tightened in the following sequence:
1. Install the brass plates or aluminum flat stock between the two top jacking screws and snug
them both.
2. Lightly snug the two set-screws that bear against the mounting lugs to ensure the lugs are
pushed against the opposite side of the groove.
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3. Revisit the two top jacking screws and tighten a little more. This is a matter of feel. Do not
over tighten as this action may cause the bore to become deformed at this point during drilling.
4. Lightly snug the two set screws against the passenger side of the upper.
5. Lightly snug the two set screws against the drivers side of the upper.
6. Make sure that the 0.250 dowel can be inserted in the drivers side of the forward access
opening to facilitate measuring.
If you wish, use a test indicator to detect movement as you tighten the set screws along the side
of the unfinished flat top of the upper.
I run an indicator along the side and top of the upper flat top to prove axial alignment. I use an
indicator about ½” forward of the thread boss on the dead center. Tolerance about +/- 0.001-2
axially and radially. The jig was unexpectedly easy to align.

5 D. Machining the Threads and Finishing the Faces of the Flat Top and the Forward
Mounting Lug.

5 E. SET UP:
With the raw upper mounted (only about 1-2 ounce inches of torque are necessary on the set
screws, 5 foot pounds on the two lock nutted jacking bolts.) and aligned in the fixture and a
live center nested against the mouth of the 0.250 dowel hole at the bottom of the counter bore.
A long-nosed center will provide reach into and support the forward end of the upper while the
thread boss, upper flat top, and forward lug faces are being machined. Machining the faces
behind the thread boss is an interrupted cut. The entire setup moved before developing the
Fixture presented with this work.

Photo by Mark Litton

5 F. The upper in the boring fixture and the long nose center entering the unfinished bore

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5 G.
First: machine the face of the thread boss to 0.536 (0.661 from center,) measured from the face
to the outside diameter of the forward take down pin.
Second: Machine the O.D of the raw thread boss to 1.250.
Third: Machine the forward mounting lug and flat top faces to 0.441, measured from the face
of the thread boss. The long nose live center helps maintain alignment when facing and
threading.

Photo by Mark Litton

5 H. Measuring from the face of the thread boss to the outside of the forward mounting pin. The
measurement is 0.661 from the face to the center of the pin. To the outside—0.536. The piece of
Delrin is to hold the mic in place while I took the picture.

Photo by Mark Litton

5 I. Position of the facing tool, the machined forward surfaces, the dowel inserted in the
forward mounting lug. The drill chuck is used to insert and remove the dowel. Remember to
remove the chuck and dowel pin before proceeding.

Fourth: Machine the thread relief at the base of the flat top and forward lug face or a double-
depth 0.075 x 0.075 axially. The thread relief should be a 0.032 radius.

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5J.
I machine the threads away from the shoulder, towards the tailstock, with the lathe in
reverse.
Let me strongly suggest threading away from the shoulder. Conventional threading from
right to left approaches the shoulder of the upper DANGER close. I got away with
threading VERY close to the shoulder behind the thread boss—until I watched, in
disbelief, as the tool gouged a nasty canyon in the face of the upper--ruined. A very bad
day. I have since amended my ways—at least some of them.
Aloris has a threading insert holder, in sizes from EXA-8-AXA-8 etc., that allows the
insert to be turned upside down, allowing the cutter to be used with the lathe in reverse
and cutting away from a shoulder from left to right and at the same time facilitating the
use of the long nosed live center for support. All my upper projects were threaded using
an Aloris CXA-8 with a P6 insert. NOT THE ONLY METHOD.

Photo by Mark Litton

.
5 K. Threading towards the tail stock. Machine operating.

When the double-depth of the threads is around 0.069, stop the lathe and check the fit of the
barrel nut. Advance to your thread tolerance satisfaction. As a matter of preference, I like a snug
but not forced fit. Aluminum on Aluminum is problematic in itself. I machine the threads at 235
rpm’s.

5 L. Drilling the Upper Bore

a. Drill through with a 0.625 drill, removing chips often, and applying lube. I use a 4-1
Kerosene-Starrett M-1 mixture in a spray bottle. Subsequent counter-bores will guide the

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drill and provide a bearing surface for the drill margins-producing a much more
accurately drilled hole. Again, my opinion.
Do not make the counter bore smaller than the drill or reamer.
b. The second counter bore is 0.971 to a depth of 0.312, then machine through with a 0.9687
drill. Make sure to retract the drill often to remove chips.

5M. CHECK LIST:

1. ____ Machined the thread boss to 0.661 from the center of the forward lug hole.
2. ____ Machined the forward face of the forward lug and the forward face of the flat top.
3.____ Machined the thread boss to 1.250 x 18tpi and checked fit.
4. ____Drilled the bore to 0. 9687

BREAK THE SETUP

UNIT 6 Line Boring the Upper, Fixture #2

I was not happy with the results derived from drilling or reaming to the final 0.998-1.000
dimension of the bolt carrier tunnel. The length of time taken and sometimes relatively
poor finish was not to my liking. Aluminum is quite soft and even small build ups of swarf
tend to gall against the OD of the bore. The parallelism between the upper flat top, the
axis of the bore, and the lower deck MAY also suffer. Sometimes great, not so at other
times. I decided to attempt to Line Bore the bolt carrier tunnel.
I designed a fixture from a solid block of 1.000x2.750x6.000 cold roll flat steel bar. And
yes, I provided pertinent pictures. The boring bar was a piece of round, 4140, 0.875 x
18.000. A center was machined in each end and a small flat on one end to mount the bent
tail dog. Next, I machined a male center in the chuck of my 19x54 Leblond lathe and
mounted a live center in the tailstock. Trammed the compound and eliminated any burs
on the inside of the compound “T” slot.

Five sixteenths back from the back of the block, a slot is machined measuring 1.000x
0.410x 6.000. On the back side of the block, machine 6-8 threaded holes for ¼ 20tpi, x
0.312 set screws. I used flat faced set screws. The area (the cheek of the flat top) that the
screws will be bearing against is not finished at this time and all marks will be machined
away in a later unit. Two 25/64 clearance holes will be drilled through the top part of the
fixture, to allow the through insertion of the 0.375x16 tpi socket head clamp screws. On
the back and front side of the fixture, machine away 0.125 by 1 inch deep steps that are
parallel with the groove machined for the flat upper. A piece of 0.375 x 2.250 x 6.00 flat
bar with two 3/8”x 16tpi threaded holes will provide the anchor for the fixture.

Measure the distance between the upper face of the compound and the center of the
boring bar. This distance is referenced to the center of the thread boss.
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With the compound trammed, mount the fixture in the compound “T” slot and tap the
front shoulder against the ledge of the compound. Prove that it is square with the boring
bar. Torque the mounting screws. Mount the boring bar through the upper and with the
uppers flat top down, in the groove of the fixture. Snug two or three of the set screws.
Mount a test indicator on the boring bar and sweep the O.D. of the threads on the thread
boss. My contact point is 0.375 and flat. Move the Y coordinate to approximate center
and determine the amount of shim under the flat top that will bring the axis of the bore
parallel to the axis of the bar. No need to dismantle the entire setup. Simply loosen the 2-3
set screws and slide shims in or out to achieve desired results. Dykem to provide a visual
indication of when the bore is cleaned up. To measure the bore, retract the live center
and remove the bar. To advance the tool, mount an indicator on the flat relief of the
boring bar and slowly turn the adjusting screw. Remember 0.002 advance on the tool will
increase the O.D. of the bore by 0.004. REMINDER: Remember to drop the boring bar
from the center before dragging the tool through the bore. Take no more than 0.003 or
0.006 diametrical, in one pass. Always include a spring pass during machining. Mount an
indicator to determine if the compound moves during boring. Don’t ask why I do this.
When finished line boring, try a stripped bolt carrier (no trunnion) and the barrel
intended for the build.

Photo by Mark Litton Photo by Mark Litton Photo by Mark Litton

Photo by Mark Litton

6 A. Fixture # 2, Line Boring the Bolt Carrier Tunnel in the Upper.

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UNIT 7 Machining the Inside of the Lower Deck

7 A. Tools:
1. 0.500 x 0.750 LOC center cutting end mill 2.875 inches total length. The stick-out past
the holder should be at least 2.250
2. 0.375 x 0.625 LOC center cutting end mill x 2.875 total length.
3. 25/64 jobber length drill.
4. 0.750 end mill
5. 0.625 end mill,
6. 0.500 ball end mill,
7. 0.187 ball end mill.
8. 0.218 end mill.
9. 0.250 ball end mill, standard LOC.
10. 0.500 end mill 2.75 long, LOC of at least 0.500. CENTER CUT
11. 0.500 x 0.125x 0.500 key seat cutter with extended shank ( 0.500 shank 1.687 with 0.750
extension—shop made.)

7 B. Setup:
Mount the upper, thread boss to the left, and the flat top down against a parallel in the milling
vise. Clamp on the shoulders of the top rail (that is why I did not finish machining the slots or
the beveled edges on the top rail) supported by a parallel underneath—while tightening, tap the
upper against the parallel with a soft faced hammer. If there is an OCD, check axial and
transverse positions of the upper in the vise with an indicator. I rarely check. Results of 0.001-
0.002 or less over 6.000 are expected. Locate X, 0.000 from the face of the thread boss and Y,
0.000 using a snug fitting plug in the bore. Think about how the plug will be removed if it
interferes with machining. I use a split ring aluminum bushing slide over one end of the plug
and a pair of groove lock pliers.

7 C.
With a center cutting end mill (0.500 x1.750), touch off on the deck and with a 0.005 pass,
mark the limits of the slot in the lower deck of the upper. Finished coordinates are 1.280, 0.00
and 6.397, 0.00. I do this as a reminder. Mill through between the coordinates in one pass.
Widen the aft one half of the slot by 0.005 on each side. Coordinates. 6.397, 0.005 to 3.397,
0.005 and 3.397, -0.005 and back to 6.397, -0.005. The shank on the key seat cutter is 0.500 and
may drag along the sides of the slot without clearance.

Retract the quill and move the table--touch off on the deck, Z, 0.000—Set the quill stop and
lower the table by 0.005, retract the quill. Move to 6.397, 0.000, 0.000 and raise the table to
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1.662. This operation will provide access for the key seat cutter used to finish the charging
handle slot. Move the table to 6.397, 0.000, 0.000 and lower the cutter with the quill to the
stop, providing the exit for the key seat cutter at the other end of the charging handle slot.
Check to make sure of the depth.

7 D. Machining the Charging Handle Slot

The full width of the charging handle slot is 0.415 and 1.662 deep, measured from the face
of the lower deck of the upper.

Install a 0.391 drill and touch off on the bottom at either end of the slot between the lugs that
was previously milled to 1.662, measured from the deck, and lower the table by 0.005. Set the
quill stop. Retract the quill to above the deck and move to the first coordinate.

Photo by Mark Litton

7 E. Holes as they appear for mass material removal.

7 F.
Drill all the holes to the quill stop using the following drilling schedule:
1. 1.733, 0.00 (measured from the face of the thread boss)
2. 2.123, 0.00
3. 2.513, 0.00
4. 2.903, 0.00
6. 3.293, 0.00
6. 3.683, 0.00
7. 4.073, 0.00
8. 4.463, 0.00
9. 4.853, 0.00
10. 5.243, 0.00
11. 5.633, 0.00
12. 6.023, 0.00

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7 G.
Replace the 0.375 drill with a 0.375 center cutting end mill to remove most of the remaining
material. Touch off on the bottom of the slot at either of the limits between the mounting lugs.
This will be, Z, 0.000. Raise the table by 0.005. Mill, in one pass, most of the material left
after drilling. At coordinate, 1.2175, 0.019, 0.005, mill, in one pass to 6.460, 0.019, 0.005.
Move to coordinate 6.460, -0.019, 0.005 and mill to 1.2175, -0.019, 0.005 The finished depth
of the slot measured from the deck is 1.662. Feed rate is 1.000 ipm, at 300 rpm.

7 H. Machining the Aft End of the Charging Handle Tunnel

The aft end of the aft mounting lug should be finished from a previous operation (4B).
Therefore use 7.265 + (From the face of the thread boss to the aft end of the aft lug) +0.188,
+0.005 or 7.459. Your tool should just clear the back of the aft lug. Zero your X axis. Move to
8.000, 0.000, 0.00 to clear the back of the upper. Plunge to the quill stop set in 7D, and move,
in 0.050 increments back to 7.459, 0.000, 1.662 (the quill stop.)
Move to7.459, 0.019, 1.662. Mill (do not climb mill) out past the back of the upper and move
to 8.000, -0.019, 1.662. Move and Machine to 7.459, -0.019, 1.662. If the end mill does not
touch the aft side of the aft lug, move the tool until it barely touches.

Photo by Mark Litton

7 I. Machining the aft end of the charging handle tunnel.

Photo by Mark Litton

7 J. Machining the recess behind the aft lug.

7 K. Machining the recess behind and just below the aft mounting lug
Chuck a 0.187 end mill with a minimum 1” LOC. Move the cutter to the back of the aft
mounting lug,7.365, or just touching the back of the lug—Carefully plunge through to the bolt

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carrier; set the quill stop. Move the cutter to 7.365, 0.281. Then move to 8.000, 0.281.
Reposition the cutter to 8.000, -0.281 and advance to 7.365, -0.281. Finito!

7 L. Machining the 0.750 x 0.872 x 0.090 counter milled slot in the aft end of the lower
deck.
Find the thread boss face for X, 0.000 and the center of the bore for Y, 0.000.
Mount a 0.750 end mill and touch off on the lower deck. Lower the knee by 0.005. Move to
6.419, 0.00, 0.00. Slowly raise the knee by 0.090 and mill to coordinates 6.297, 0.00, 0.090.
One finished pass.

Photo by Mark Litton

7 M. Machining the counter-milled slot

Photo by Mark Litton

7 N. Machining the inside stops for the magazine.

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7 O. Machining the Magazine Access Slot and Upper Magazine Shoulder Stop

7 P. Setup:
Use previous setup in milling vise. (see 7 B)
Conventional Milling in thee (3) passes.
Chuck a 0.500” ball end mill and touch off on the deck. Lower the table by 0.005” and move to
the Finished coordinate 1.253, 0.2125, 0.406 and then to 3.783, 0.2125, 0.406 These
coordinates will complete one side of the operation. Then move to 3.783, -0.2125, 0.406 and
1.253, -0.2125, 0.406. The operation is complete and provides a radius for the upper lips of the
detachable magazine. Use a sharp end mill in at least three (3) passes. The side walls are
relatively thin at this point. They have a tendency to vibrate, which could prove catastrophic
when climb milling. Just my opinion.

Photo by Mark Litton

7 Q. Machining the forward end of the Magazine Access Slot in the lower deck.

7 R.
Chuck up a 0.218” end mill and touch off on the deck for Z, 0.00. Lower the table 0.005 and
move to coordinates, 1.111, 0.3485, 0.425, to 1.223, 0.3485, 0.425 then move across to 1.223, -
0.3485, 0.425 and back to 1.111, -0.3525, 425. Move across to 1.111, 0.3485, 0.425 to complete
the operation. Chuck a 0.625 end mill, touch off on the deck, drop the table 0.005 and move to
coordinates 1.900, 0.1435, 1.260, plunge in one careful pass. While at the bottom, move to
coordinates, 1.945, 0.1435, 1.260

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Photo by Mark Litton

7 S. Machining the 0.625 counter milled slot in the forward right side of the lower deck

7 T. Machining the Inside Detent for the Latch on the Dust Cover
Find the center of the bore and make that Y, 0.000. Find the face of the thread boss and make
that X, 0.000. Touch off on the face of the finished lower deck with the 0.250 ball mill, make
that Z, 0.000. Lower the table by 0.005. Move to coordinates 2.560, -0.243, 1.063. I used
Dykem to make it easier to identify progress.
Photo by Mark Litton

7 U. Machining the Charging Handle Raceway

7 V. Machining the Charging Handle Raceway or Slot

Chuck the extended (shop made) key seat cutter and touch off on the deck, lower the table by -
0.005 and move to 6.397. 0.00, - 0.005. With the cutter rotating, raise the table to 6.397,
0.00,1.464. Mill back to 1.280, 0.00, 1.464. Lower the table to clear the cutter. The slot is
finished. Whew!

7 W. Check List:
1. ____ Machined through the deck into the bore.
2. ____ Machined the charging handle slot to length, width, and depth.
3. ____ Machined the recess behind and just below the aft mounting lug
4. ____ Machined the 0.750 x 0.872 x 0.090 counter milled slot in the lower deck.
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5. ____ Machined the Magazine Access Slot and Upper Magazine Shoulder Stop
6. ____ Machined the forward end of the Magazine Access Slot in the lower deck.
7. ____ Machined the 0.625”counter milled slot in the forward right side of the lower deck.
8. ____ Machined the inside detent for the latch on the dust cover.
9. ____ Machined the Charging Handle Raceway or Slot.

BREAK THE SETUP

UNIT 8 Machining the Un-Machined Zone and Spotting the

Forward Assist.

Photo by Mark Litton

8 A. Machining the UMZ

8 B. Tools:
1. 0.375 ball end mill
2. Right angle plate 7-8 inches tall or a section of flat plate mounted in a milling vise.
3. #1 or #2 center drill
4. Three 4.5” Kant Twist clamps
5. One piece of 0.500x1.000x2.000 flat stock to bridge open deck.
6. 8” Machinist square

8 C Setup:
Plunge milling only for this operation. Don’t Even Ask Why.
Mount the upper vertical with the thread boss against the table and the flat top against the angle
plate. Have the passenger side of the flat top align near the right-hand edge of the mounting
plate. Rough align the upper to vertical with an 8” machinist square. Secure with Three Kant-
Twist clamps (as shown in the photo 8A) and fine adjust to vertical along the side of the upper
flat top with an indicator. With an edge finder locate the center of the charging handle slot for,
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X 0.000. With an edge finder locate the back of the charging handle slot and move toward the
center of the bore by 0.188 or half of a 0.375 end mill plus 0.003, and make this position, Y
0.000. Move toward the center of the bore to clear the UMZ and plunge cut, in 0.030
increments back to 0.000, 0.000. Now move to coordinate 0.011, 0.000 and mill out, in one
pass, into the open bore. Move to -0.011, -0.500 and mill back to -0.011, 0.000. This area will
be finished with a safe-edge file. I have finished this area on four uppers so far, just takes a little
patience and commitment.

8 D. Spotting the Center Position for the Forward Assist.

While the upper is in this position, it will be a good time to mark the center of the forward
assist. This light center will be used later to locate the center of the forward assist bore.

Photo by Mark Litton

Photo by Mark Litton

8 E. Locating 0.000, 0.000 and spotting for the Forward Assist.

8 F. Setup:
Using X, 0.000, Y, 0.000 indicated from the bore, move to 1.028, 0.000 and lightly mark,
with the center drill, the future center of the forward assist. The indention or center will
only need to be about 0.010-0.012 deep. Just enough to keep the point of a center-finder
from sliding out.

8 G. Check List:
1. ___ Machined the UMZ
2. ___ Created Spot for Forward Assist

BREAK THE SETUP

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UNIT 9 Machining the Axial Charging Handle Slot Under the Aft
End Flat Top.
9 A. Tools:
1.0.3125 end mill
2. 0.1875 end mill, center cut
3. 0.500 x 1.750LOC end mill

9 B. Setup:
Place a parallel of suitable height to position the driver’s side of the mounting lug above
the vise jaw. Machining the aft radius will require near contact with the lug face and side.
Find the face of the lower deck for Y, 0.000 and the Face of the Thread Boss for X, 0.000.

Photo by Mark Litton

9 C. Machining the Axial Charging Handle Slot Under the Aft End Flat Top.

9 D.
Chuck a 0.3125 end mill with at least a 1 inch LOC. Advance to coordinates 8.000, 1.500, or
beyond the aft end of the upper. Lower the quill such that the cutter will machine both sides of
the slot simultaneously. Machine the slot to 7.101, 1.500.

Photo by Mark Litton

9 E. Machining the slot for the Charging Handle Latch
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9 F. Machining the Slot for the Charging Handle Latch

Mount a 0.188 end mill and move to 6.691, 1.350 to find a flat spot on the side of the upper and
touch off. Zero the Z axis and lower the table by 0.005. With the end mill rotating move to
coordinates, 6.691, 1.500, 0.005 and raise the table to 6.691, 1.500, 0.040. Now to 6.691,
1.611, 0.040 and then to 6.691, 1.389, 0.040 to complete the slot. The ramp leading up to the
slot will be machined later.

9 G. Check List:
1. ____ Machined the charging handle axial slot under the flat top.
2. ____Machined the radial slot for the latch on the charging handle.

9 H. Machining the Driver and Passenger Side Radius on the Aft End of the Upper.

The direction of rotation for the radius steps is counter-clockwise. Facing the machine,
0 degrees will be on the right and 180 on the left with 90 in the map-wise North position.
Rotation is always in reference to the positive X axis, which in this case is on the right
facing the machine. I used a 0.500 end mill for this operation.

I constructed a spacer from a flat piece of aluminum 0.375 x 1.240 x 7.000. The spacer is
positioned between the mounting lugs and a vise face. Reason: Part of the aft radius
extends to about the middle of the cheeks of the aft lug. The spacer along with
appropriate parallels will raise the lugs above and away from the vise jaws. If an end mill
with a diameter of less than 0.470 is used, the aluminum spacer can obviously be omitted.

9 I. SET UP:
Find X, 0.000 on the thread boss face and Y, 0.000 at the face of the deck.
The aft limit of the upper is 7.661 from the face of the thread boss. Therefore, your X, 0.000
should be 6.911. Your Y, 0.000, will be 0.750 from the face of the deck. The following
schedule will start at 270 degrees and progress to 360 degrees in a CCW direction of rotation.
Zero or 360 degrees will be on the positive X axis. The thread boss is on the left of the
machinist, the drivers side is up.
Make sure to touch off on the cheek of the aft mounting lug, zero the Z axis and lower the table
by 0.005 and zero the Z axis again. Reasoning that you will be machining a small portion of the
radius that is located on the side or cheek of the aft mounting lug. Once past the mounting lug,
the radius will be machined on both sides of the bore at the same time. It will be necessary to
rotate the upper 180 degrees to finish the opposite side of the radius.

9 J. Coordinate schedule: 0.500 end mill, 0.050 arc circle increments

1. 0.000, - 1.000 3. 0.1046, - 0.9946
2. 0.0524, - 0.9986 4. 0.1564, - 0.9876
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5. 0.2080, - 0.9782 17. 0.7432, -0.6692

6. 0.2588, - 0.9660 18. 0.7772, -0.6294
7. 0.3090, - 0.9510 19. 0.8090, -0.5878
8. 0.3584, - 0.9336 20 0.8386, -0.5446
9. 0.4068, -0.9136 21. 0.8660 -0.5000
10. 0.4540, -0.8910 22. 0.8910, -0.4540
11. 0.5000, -0.8660 23. 0.9136, -0.4068
12. 0.5446, -0.8386 24. 0.9336, -0.3584
13. 0.5878, -0.8090 25. 0.9510, -0.3090
14. 0.6294, -0.7772 26. 0.9660, -0.2588
15. 0.6692, -0.7432 27. 0.9986, 0.0524
16. 0.7072, -0.7072 28. 1.0000, 0.000
Photo by Mark Litton

9 K. Machining the Aft Radius

9 L. Machining the Passenger Side Radius (Small Portion)

9 M. Setup:
Flip the upper 180 degrees, so that the flat top is against the movable jaw and the
passenger side is facing up. The thread boss is on the left of the machinist.
The direction of rotation is counter-clockwise. Facing the machine, 0 will be on the right
and 180 on the left with 90 in the map-wise North position. Directions are (in my case)
always in reference to the positive X axis, which in this case is on the right facing the
machine.
Steps begin at 54 degrees and terminate at 90 degrees.

9 N. 0.050 arc circle increments 0.500 diameter end mill

Schedule of steps:
1. 0.5878, 0.8090 (54 degrees)
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2. 0.5406, 0.8412
3. 0.4918, 0.8708
4. 0.4412, 0.8974
5. 0.3892, 0.9212
6. 0.3360, 0.9418
7. 0.2818, 0.9594
8. 0.2266, 0.9740
9. 0.1706, 0.9854
10. 0.1148, 0.9934
11. 0.0570, 0.9984
12. 0.0000, 1.0000

9 O. Check List:
1. Machined the Drivers Side Radius on the Aft End of the Upper
2. Machined the Passenger Side Radius (Small Portion)

BREAK THE SETUP

Unit 10. Machining the AR15 Raw Upper Ejection Port

10 A. Tools:
1. 0.500” center cutting end mill.
2. two axis vise
3. 0.250 ball end mill, standard LOC.

Photo by Mark Litton

10 B. Machining the Ejection Port

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10 C. SET UP: 0.500 end mill

The Ejection Port is located on the passenger side, forward end of the AR15 upper forging. On
one drawing, the ejection port is 3.110 x 0.480 and opens up into the bolt tunnel. I used a 0.500
cutter to perform this operation successfully and encountered “0” problems.
Clamp (7.5 ft/lbs) the upper receiver in an aligned two-axis vise that allows the receiver to be
rotated on its axis by 22 degrees towards the mill column, with the thread boss on left.
Locate the face of the thread boss and make this X, 0.000 and with a snug fitting plug
located in the receiver bore, locate Y,0.000. Move to 1.220, 0.000, touch off at this coordinate
for Z, 0.000. Proceed slowly to 1.220, -0.690, 0.055, advance to 3.870, -0.690, 0.055, now
move to 3.870, 0.800, 0.055 and back to 1.220, 0.800, 0.055. At this juncture, the two inside
shoulders of the ejection port dust cover hinge projections (partially), the dust cover Seat (both
upper and lower, if any depending on the forging,) are finished. At 1.260, 0.000 carefully
plunge the center cutting end mill into the bore of the receiver and slowly move to 3.870, 0.000.
The ejection port should be 3.110, or the total finished length.

10 D. Machining the External Detent for the Latch on the Dust Cover
To externally finish the ejection port, machine the dust cover detent. It is very small but
relatively easy and necessary. Rotate the vise towards the milling column to 47 degrees. The
face of the thread boss is X, 0.00. Locate the center of the ejection port at this angle (about,
0.102), and make that Y 0.00. Move the 0.250 cutter into, and down past the upper ejection port
lip in the now open bore of the upper. Make that your Z 0.00. Move to the upper lip of the
ejection port and a piece of copy paper between the cutter and the lip, establish your Y 0.00.
Move to the following, 2.560, -0.090, and 0.00. Look it over.

10 E. Check List
1. ____ Ejection port.
2. ____ Dust Cover Seat.
3. Inside Dust Cover Hinge Projections.
4. ____ The dust cover detent in the upper lip of the ejection port.
5. ____ The dust cover detent in the inside of the upper lip of the ejection port.

BREAK THE SETUP

UNIT 11. Machining the Axial Radius Between Dust Cover Bearings
11 A. Tools:
1. 1.375 x 0.250 staggered tooth Key seat cutter with extension. Extension instructions
follow. My drawing calls for a key seat cutter with a radius of 0.703, ---go figure.
Engineers.
2. 0.125 x 6 inch spotting drill
3. 0.125 x 6 inch twist drill
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4. 0.125 or #1 center drill

5. 0.084 jobber length drill
6. 0.180 jobber length drill
7. 0.125 end mill

11 B. Key Seat Cutter Extension Construction.

Choose a 5” length of 0.750 O.D. 4140 round stock. Drill and ream (expansion reamer
in my case 0.499) one end of the stock to a depth of 0.625 in the milling machine—aligned,
of course. Press the cutter shank into the extension.

11 C. Backing Plate dimensions.

The piece of aluminum (clamped in the milling vise) on which the upper is mounted came
from a scrap yard in Paris, TN. It was part of another piece of equipment. It was square
and flat---enough. The mounting plate measures 7.375 x 0.875 x 3. I milled a notch in one
of the upper corners that measures 1.125 x 0.500 x 0.875. VERY HANDY and quite
sufficient.

11 D. Setup:
Mount the Upper Receiver to a backing plate mounted in the milling vise. Mount the two take
down lugs against the backing plate using three 4.5” Kant-Twist clamps. Make sure the
unfinished aft end of the upper is resting on the milling table Indicate the receiver to vertical
and find the center of the bore. Your X,0.000 and Y, 0.000
Photo by Mark Litton

11 E. Aligning the receiver to vertical is position 0.000,0.000.

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Photo by Mark Litton

11 F. Centering the bore—notice the clamp positions.

Make sure that there is enough travel (about 3.5”) in the quill or table to complete the axial
radius machining operation. Now move the cutter somewhere above the dust cover bearing
projections, touch off on the face of the thread boss to determine Z, 0.000. Drop the table 0.005
and move the cutter away from the receiver, raise the table to the Z, 1.218 elevation FIRST,
With the cutter rotating slowly move to the top coordinate 1.210, 0.380, 1.218. THEN Table
UP TO 1.210, 0.380, 4.120. (Finished Limits and should be done in two or three steps)
Photo by Mark Litton

11 G. The cutter, extension, and upper in preparation of machining.

Make sure that the forward face of the aft bearing mount is smooth-no steps. It will be difficult
to spot the hole for the dust cover shaft if there is a step or shoulder that causes the drill to
walk. When spotting on the face of the bearing mount at this position, I use a small magnifying
glass to observe how the drill point reacts. It is critical that there is Minimal movement between
the drill and the face of the lug. THESE ARE FINISHED LIMITS. One or two slow passes. I
raised and lowered the knee, to cut the radius—something I absolutely dislike. Move the cutter
away from the work piece and up to 1.210, 0.380, 0.812 and plunge cut the forward face of the
forward dust cover bearing lug. NOTE: I would plunge cut the inside faces of the dust
cover bearing lugs to within 0.005 of the finished dimension. Reason being, that there is a
relatively sizeable bump to remove in these two locations. Then machine to the limits on
the final pass. When the inside faces and radius has been completed, move the cutter
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away and lower the table and machine to 1.210, 0.380, 0.810 to finish the forward face of
the forward bearing lug.

11 H. Now for the bearing holes for the dust cover shaft –Pucker Time. The holes (I used a
0.125 parabolic to drill the aft holes for the dust cover shaft) --over three inches apart. Be
careful. I centered my quill over the axial bore of the upper. Then, after moving to
0.664, 0.263, I chucked up a 0.125 center drill to spot the forward shoulder of the forward dust
cover shaft mounting projection. Drill the upper hole with a short chucked 0.125 drill. Then
mount a 6” aircraft spotting drill and move through the forward hole to spot the forward face of
the aft projection. Remove the spotter and chuck up a 6” parabolic 0.125” (the drills and
spotters were what I had on hand) drill through the aft projection. Remember if your drill does
not start straight the hole will be off center and the dust cover will not fit as one would like. Try
the dust cover and the shaft.

11 I. Drilling Gas Tube Access Port and Vent Holes in Upper

Photo by Mark Litton

11 J. Gas tube and vent holes.

Since the bore is centered under the spindle it is an opportunity to drill the gas tube port access
and vent holes. The four holes surrounding the gas tube port should be drilled first. All
five holes should be spotted. Move to 0.00, 0.781 and zero both the X and Y axes. Spot the gas
tube hole at 0.000, 0.000, then spot on the coordinates that follow. The first of the four
surrounding spots will be at 45degrees oriented in a CCW from the positive X axis, as viewed
when the rail is vertical and nearest the operator. The four spots will be on a bolt circle of 0.206
for a radius of 0.103. The coordinates are:

1. 0.0728, 0.0728 2. -0.0728, 0.0728 3. -0.0728, -0.728 4. 0.0728, -0.0728.

Now for the gas tube hole. Chuck up a 0.180” drill and move to 0.00,0.00 directly centered on
the remaining spot. Drill through carefully.

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11 K. Machining the Barrel Alignment Slot on the Threaded Boss

11 L. Setup:
Find the center of the bore for X, 0.000 and Y, 0.000. Touch off on the thread boss face for Z,
0.000. With a 0.125 end mill, machine down from the thread boss face, 0.156.

Photo by Mark Litton

11 M. Barrel alignment Slot

11 N. Check List
1. ____ Machined the radius for the dust cover.
2. ____Machined the forward face of both dust cover projections.
3. ____Machined the aft face of the forward dust cover projection.
4. ____Machined the dust cover shaft bearing holes.
4. ____Drilled all five of the gas tube holes in the upper.
5. ____Machined the barrel alignment slot in the thread boss.

BREAK THE SETUP

UNIT 12. Machining for the Forward Assist

12 A. Tools:
1. 0.125 x 4” long drill
2. 0.3125 center cutting end mill with 2 inch stick-out
3. 0.500 center cutting end mill with 0.750 stick-out
4. 0.250 center drill
5. Sacrificial plug (construction instructions follow)
6. 0.094 drill bit.
7. 20 degree angle plate

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12 B. Setup:

Orient the upper against backing plate (see photo 12 C). Secure with three 4.5” Kant-Twist
clamps. The thread boss is down with the flat top against the mounting plate. Use a 20 degree
angle plate to align against the sides of the flat top and the inside of the vise—the surface below
the stationary jaw. With a center finding pointer, locate the center drilled indention- (See photo
8 E). Re-cut the center point with a 0.250 center drill. Using a small magnifying lens will assist
in making a more accurate determination of center. Make this point 0.000, 0.000

Photo by Mark Litton

12 C. Locating forward assist center. The Bausch and Lomb magnifier was a gift from my
brother and is at least 45 years old.
Photo by Mark Litton

12 D. Milling Forward assist 0.312 bore.

At 0.000, 0.000. Drill through with the 1/8 drill. With a 0.3125 drill or center cutting mill,
completely machine through and out into the bore. Replace the 0.3125 EM with the 0.500 EM

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Photo by Mark Litton

12 E. Counter milling for the forward assist.

Be Very Careful When Performing the Next Operation. Only about 0.010 material
removal will clean the surface enough to reference the depth of the 0.500 bore. Machine the
face of the forward assist bore for reference. At coordinate, 0.000, 0.000, touch off on the
forward assist structure and mill to a depth of 0.500. Try the forward assist part. Except for the
forward assist retention pin, it is finished.

12 F. Check list:
1. Locate the center of the forward assist made in –14-C.
2. Drill through with a 1/8” drill. ____
3. Mill or drill through with a 0.3125 cutter ____
4. Counter mill to a depth of 0.500 with the ½” end mill. ____
BREAK THE SETUP

UNIT 13 Machining the Forward Assist Retention Spring Pin Hole.

13 A. SET UP:
Orient the Upper, as depicted above using a 20 degree angle plate and a precision square.
Clamp with step blocks over each of the mounting lugs-clamps bearing on the unfinished flat
top. With a snug fitting pin inserted in the forward assist bore, locate the center, Y, 0.000 and
the face of the forward assist structure, X, 0.000 Raise the quill and move to 0.650, -0.173.
With a 0.1250 center drill, spot the location of the spring pin retention hole. Chuck a 0.094
drill in the milling machine.

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Photo by Mark Litton

13 B. Orienting the Upper on the milling table.

Photo by Mark Litton

13 C. Locating the face of the Forward Assist structure.

13 D. Sacrificial Aluminum Plug Construction.

Machine an aluminum plug to just barely fit the bore of the forward assist minor bore,
about 0.312 in diameter by 1.250. I machined this plug from a scrap piece of 0.750
aluminum stock and left a 0.750 piece unmachined on the end to hold onto and provide a
stop, while drilling the hole for the retention pin. If a sacrificial plug is not used, the 3/32’
drill will have a tendency to move off center as it enters the minor bore of the assist. Hold
the plug tightly as it may want to push out of the assist bore. The bit may break or the
drill’s exit on the opposite side of the assist structure may very well be a disappointment.

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Photo by Mark Litton

13 E. Drilling the Through Hole for the Forward Assist Retention Pin

With the bit centered over the coordinate and the sacrificial plug held tightly in place, drill
through the forward assist structure.

Photo by Mark Litton

13 F. Trying the Forward Assist for Fit

After checking for burrs, try the assist mechanism and insert a 0.094 drill shank to make sure
the mechanism moves freely front to back and will not pull out.

13 H. Check List:
1. ____Locate and spot the location of the Retention Pin Hole.
2. ____Constructed and utilized a sacrificial plug.
3. ____Drilled completely through the forward assist structure.
4. ____Tried the Forward Assist.

BREAK THE SETUP

UNIT 14. Machining the Bolt Carrier Key Counter-Bore

14 A. Tools:
1. Two, Letter N drill bits at least 9” in length.
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1a. One drill with a standard point 118 degrees.

2a. The other drill ground to a 180 degree point.
Photo by Mark Litton

14 B. Machining for the bolt carrier Key clearance.

14 C. Setup:
Align the upper to vertical along the driver cheek of the flat top. Align the bore, with the aid of
a snug plug to 0.000, 0.000. Install the 118 degree point drill in the chuck with an 8” stick-out.
Move the quill to mid position. Install the standard point drill accessing the collet from inside
the open bore. Touch off on the vise (the thread boss should be resting on the inside of the vise)
and make this Z, 0.000. Lock the quill. Set the quill stop. Lower the table by 0.750, Retract the
quill and move to coordinate 0.000, -0.781. Use the quill to advance the drill to the stop—
retract. Move the quill to 0.000, 0.000, and chuck up the flat bottom drill. Touch off on the
table, lock the quill and lower the table to 0.641 Retract the quill and move to 0.000, 0.781.
Drill to the stop.

14 D. Check List:
1. ____ Machined the bolt Key counter bore.

BREAK THE SETUP

UNIT 15 Machining the Radius on the Forward Mounting Lug

15 A. Tools:
1. 7/32 Corner Rounding Bit
This operation is necessary to allow the Upper and the Lower Receiver to rotate on the
forward mounting pin. If there is interference between the two receiver elements the
upper or the lower could be damaged or broken as the weapon is assembled. This
operation can also be completed with, a file, and a radius gauge.

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15 B. Setup:
Mount the upper in a milling vise with the flat top down, supported by parallels. The
thread boss is to the left. Locate the Forward Face of the forward mounting lug for X,
0.000. With the corner rounding bit mounted in the quill, touch off on the top of the
forward mounting lug for Z, 0.000. Milling will be done on the Y axis.

I made a form sanding tool to finish this operation. A Piece of hard wood
2.000x8.000x0.750. Machine a slot 0.500x0.250 deep along one edge with a ball end mill.
With rubber cement, glue a strip of 240 grit x 1.000 abrasive into the groove and press it
in place with a 0.500x8.000 round steel stock. Trim edges. Works great to finish the
radius on the lug.

15 C. Checklist:
1. _______ Machined the radius on the forward mounting lug.

Unit 16. Machining the Flat Top to the Final Dimensions.

16 A Tools:
1. 0.500 end mill, standard LOC
2. 0.312 end mill standard LOC
3. 0.250 end mill standard LOC
4. 0.625 x 0.125 key seat cutter
5. 0.156 x 0.875 key seat cutter.
6. 0.500 x 45 degree dove tail cutter.
7. 0.500 x 45 degree bevel cutter.

16 B. Machining the Flat Top to Height and Width

16 C. Setup:
Clamp the upper with the thread boss on the left of the operator and the mounting lugs
between the jaws of the vise and torque to 7.5 ft/lbs. Tap the deck against the upper jaws.
This clamping arrangement will suffice for the remainder of the operations to completion.

Touch off on the top of the milling vise jaw—this point is Z, 0.000. Lower the table by -1.840,
the finished height. Machine the flat top from end to end.
Find the forward face of the flat top, just above the gas tube access port, X, 0.000. Find the
center of the flat top by referencing one side of the structure and moving to the center, Y, 0.000.
Move the 0.250 cutter to 7.420, -0.542, 0.250 and cut to 0.200, -0.542, 0.250 then across to
0.200, 0.542, 0.250 and cut to 7.420, 0.542, 0.250. Arriving at the final flat to width of 0.835.

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Photo by Mark Litton

16 D. Machining the axial groove below the flat top.

16 E. Setup:
Machining the axial groove below the flat top as follows: Find X and Y 0.000. Insert the key
seat cutter (0.625x0.125), touch off on the deck for Z, 0.000. Lower the table by 0.005 and
move to 0.360, 0.621, 0.321. Mill the entire length and move to 7.950, -0.621, 0.321. Climb
Milling.

16 F. Machining the Radius at the Aft End of the Flat Top

16 G. Setup:
Locate the face of the thread boss and the axial center of the upper for 0.000, 0.000. The center
of the radius is calculated from the thread boss face of the upper.
The radius is 0.380.
Mount the 0.250 end mill and move to coordinates, 7.281, 0.000-Zero both X and Y axes.
The schedule that follows provides a 0.050 tool incrementation to complete the radius. Zero (0)
degrees is always on the positive X axis and progresses CCW.
Starting from 0.000, 0.000 and 270 degrees:

1 0.2192, - 0.4550 2.0.2686, - 0.4276 3. 0.3148, - 0.3948 4. 0.3570, -0.3570 (315 )

5. 0.3948, -0.3148 6. 0.4276, -0.2686 7. 0.4550, -0.2192 8. 0.4766, -0.1668
9. 0.4924, -0.1124 10. 0.5018 -0.0566 11. 0.5050, 0.000 (0 or 360 degrees)
12. 0.5018, 0.0566 13. 0.4924, 0.1124 14. 0.4766, 0.1668, 15. 0.4550, 0.2192
16. 0.4276, 0.2686 17. 0.3948. 0.3148 18. 0.3570, 0.3570 (45 degrees)
19. 0.3148, 0.3948 20. 0.2686, 0.4276 21. 0.2192, 0.4550

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16 H. Reducing the Width on the Sides of the Aft End (Balcony) of the Upper
Locate the center of the bore and the face of the thread boss for X, 0.000 and Y, 0.000. With the
0.0250 end mill installed, move to 7.556, 0.477 and mill, in one pass, to 6.411, 0.477. Retract
the end mill and move to 7.556, -0.477 and mill to 6.411, -0.477.

16 I. Machining the Ramp for the Charging Handle Latch.

16 J. Set Up:
Must reduce the width (16 H) of the aft end of the flat top before machining.
Find X, 0.000 and Y, 0.000. Insert the 0.875x 0.156 key seat cutter, touch off on the deck for Z,
0.000. Lower the table by 0.005 and move to coordinates, 8.000, -0.585, 0.424. Machine to
7.195, -0.585, 0.424.

16 K. Machining the Double Beveled Sides of the Flat Top.

16 L. Setup:
Locate the radial center of the bore. Y 0.000. Mount the dove tail cutter and touch off on the
flat top, Z, 0.000. Lower the table by 0.005 and move to the drivers side and aft end of the
upper, 7.850, (started at 0.626 moved into 0.573)

Calculations based on the following:

The actual thickness of the flat top overhang.
The actual width of the flat top. (Should be 0.835.)
The major diameter of the cutter
45 degrees, rise equals run.
What should be expected.
The 45 degree double bevel is in the center of the vertical thickness of the overhang.

16 M. EXAMPLE:
For the dove tail cutter or under bevel.
Tools:
1. 0.500 diameter dove tail cutter.
Un-beveled flat top = 0.835 divided by 2 = 0.4175, + one half the major diameter of the cutter
(0.500 divided by 2 =0.250) for a total of 0.6675, minus 0.109(half the difference between the
flat top) = 0.558. Move the cutter to Position, 7.961, 0.558, 0.196 and mill to 0.200, 0.558,
0.196. Move to 0.200, -0.558, 0.196 and back to 7.961, -0.558, 0.196 to finish the operation.

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Photo by Mark Litton

16 N. Machining the Under Bevel with the Dovetail Cutter

16 O. EXAMPLE:
For the bevel cutter, or top bevel.
Tools:
1. 0.500 (major diameter) bevel cutter.
EXAMPLE: Un-beveled width of flat top = 0.835 divided by 2 = 0.4175, + one half the major
diameter of the cutter (0.500 divided by 2 =0.250) for a total of 0.667, minus 0.109 (1/2 the
difference between the sides of the flat top and the width of the axial groove below the flat top)
= 0.558. Move the cutter to Position, 7.961, 0.558, 0.098 and mill to 0.200, 0.558, 0.098. Move
to 0.200, -0.558, 0.098 and back to 7.961, -0.558, 0.098 to finish the operation.

Photo by Mark Litton

16 P. Machining the Top Bevel of the Accessory Rail

16 Q. Machining the Accessory Stops on the Upper Flat Top of the Receiver.

The X, 0.000 is the face of the forward face of the flat top. Y, 0.000, is the center of the axial
bore. Insert a 0.188 end mill and touch off on the top of the milled flat top, identifying the Z,
0.000. Drop the table 0.005 and move the cutter coordinate, 0.547, 0.500, 0.118. Carefully
make a pass along the Y axis.

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Photo by Mark Litton

16 R. Machining the Accessory Stops

16 S. Use the following schedule to complete the notches for the accessory rail.
1. 0.547, +0.520, 0.118 plus 0.018” shift in the X axis to 0.565, -0.520, 0.118 –cut back across.
Then repeat with the following:
2. 0.941, 0.520, 0.118 and 0.959, -0.520, 0118
3. 1.335, 0.520, 0.118 and 1.353, -0.520, 0.118
4. 1.729, 0.520, 0.118 and 1.747, -0.520, 0.118
5. 2.123, 0.520, 0.118 and 2.141, -0.520, 0.118
6. 2.517, 0.520, 0.118 and 2.535, -0.520, 0.118
7. 2.911, 0.520, 0.118 and 2.929, -0.520, 0.118
8. 3.305 0.520, 0.118 and 3.323, -0.520, 0.118
9. 3.699, 0.520, 0.118 and 3.717, -0.520, 0.118
10. 4.093, 0.520, 0.118 and 4.111, -0.520, 0.118
11. 4.487, 0.520, 0.118 and 4.505, -0.520, 0.118
12. 4.881, 0.520, 0.118 and 4.899, -0.520, 0.118
13. 5.275, 0.520, 0.118 and 5.293, -0.520, 0.118

Some minor hand filing may be necessary, notably between the decks of the upper and the
lower. Small amounts of material removal and numerous fitting exercises are advised.

Before concluding some pictures of the finished product are offered.

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Finished A4 Upper receiver, machined from a raw forging (the forging mark is visible).
The forward assist is shown, also the barrel nut, barrel, and gas tube. The cleaning rod is
a shop made custom.

The finished upper and lower, both machined from raw forgings.

The last photo shows, a shop made reaction rod, a thread boss truing tool along with the
upper and lower receivers.

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