Optical Properties

When a beam of light falling on a textile fibre, it splits up into two

refracted beam, one polarized parallel to the fibre axis and the other
polarized perpendicular to fibre axis.
In general, an anisotropic mtl will have three principal refractive
indices, but fibres are usually axially symmetrical so that the refractive
indices perpendiculars to the fibre
axis are all the same. The
difference between the refractive
index for light polarized parallel to
the fibre axis and light polarized
perpendicular to the fibre axis is
called Birefringence of that fibre.
Let n|| and n┴ are the refractive
index for light polarized parallel
and perpendicular to the fibre axis respectively.
So, Birefringence value = n|| - n┴
The birefringence of a fibre is due to the orientation of the crystal axis
in the crystalline regions and of the individual molecules in the non-
crystalline regions.
Greater the value of birefringence indicate the most of molecules are
lined up parallel to the fibre axis & it will be zero if they are randomly
directed.

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Refractive Index:

The velocity with which light is transmitted varies with the medium
through which it is passing. Refractive index ‘n’ is defined as the ratio of
the velocity of light in a vacuum to the velocity of light in the mtl.
Alternative definition is,
sine of angle of incidence
Refractive index, n =
sine of angle of refraction
The refractive index of a mtl varies with the temp and with the wave
length of the light being transmitted.

Birefringence property depends on following factor:

1. The degree of orientation.
2. The degree of asymmetry of molecular chain.
Highly oriented fibres will have high Birefringence value. Ideally
oriented fibres have different birefringence value.
The magnitude of birefringence which ranges from 0.005 for Triacetate
to 0.188 for Terylene.
If all the atoms in a molecule are arranged in a straight chain as fig. (a)
the bond polarizabilities are greatest along the line joining the atoms,
and then will be get high birefringence value. However the actual
molecules in fibres do not have this form and their birefringence will be
reduced for two reasons.

(a) (b) (c)

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 Fig: (a) Straight chain, (b) Zigzag chain & (c) Chain with sidegroup
Firstly, most main chains have a zigzag form as in fig (b) provided that
the bonds diverge from the main axis by less than about 55˚; this will
still gives a positive birefringence value. The coiling of the keratin
molecule will have a similar effect in wool.
Secondly there will be side groups attacked to the main chain as in
fig(c), and these will have the effect of providing atomic bonds at right
angles to the main axis. In this case, n┴ value is higher than n|| value
and reduces the Birefringence value. In acrylic fibre, side groups have a
greater effect than the main chain and the Birefringence value will be
negative.

Measurement of Refractive Indices:

There are various methods for measuring the refractive index of textile
fibres.
I) The Becke line method (Heyn).
II) Wavelength varying technique.
III) Fibre refractometer (Rapid).
IV) Interference technique (Faust).

I) The Becke line method:

In this method, the fibre is immersed in a liquid and compared the
refractive index. If the index is same, then its boundary ceases to be
visible. By trial and error with a series of liquid mixtures of varying
composition, the observation of this effect may be used as a mean of
measuring the refractive index of fibre. It is necessary to use polarized
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light so that only one ref4active index is concerned; it gives the
refractive index of the surface layer of the fibre.
If the refractive index of the fibre is different, a bright line can be seen
at the boundary between them. When the objective of the microscope
is raised the line moves towards the medium of higher refractive index.

IV) Interference technique:

In this technique both double beam and multiple – beam interference
technique used.
In double beam fig (a) method the light is split into two beams, one of
which passes through the specimen, while the other by passes it. The
two are then combined and give an interference pattern.
(b) Multiple-beam Inter ferometry.

(a) Schematic representation of

Double-beam Inter ferometry.

In multiple beam method fig (b), the specimen is placed between two
partly silvered mirrors. A series of beams, which have passed through
the specimen for a differing number of times, depending on the
number of reflections are transmitted by the system and combine to
give the interference pattern.

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Measurement of Birefringence:
The Birefringence of a fibre can be measured directly by determining
the retardation or difference in optical path length. Since the optical
path length equals the product of the refractive index and the thickness
of the specimen through which the light passes.

So, Optical path retardation  N  N 

 (11    )t................  i 

Where, (N + δ N) = Total number of wave length.

λ = Wave length.
t = Thickness.
So, from the equation (i),
Optical path retardation = Birefringence x Thickness

N  N 
Birefringence
t
Where, n|| = Refractive index for light polarized parallel to the fibre
axis.
 = Refractive index for light polarized
Perpendicular to the fibre axis.

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Relation among Refractive index, Density & Swelling:
Refractive Indices of a material is determined by an appropriate
summation of the polarizabilities of the bonds present in each of its
molecules. So R.I. will increase if no of molecules i.e. density increases.
By Gladstone and Dale’s law,
 n  1  Cons tan t

Where, ρ = density of the mtl
n = R.I. of the mtl.
1
 V (n-1) = constant; [where = V; m = 1]

A similar relation applies to mixtures.
If Vm and nm are the volume and R.I. respectively of a mixture and V1,
V2, V3,……….. and n1, n2, n3,……………. Are the corresponding quantities
for the individual components, the relation is,
Vm (nm – 1) = V1 (n1 – 1) + V2 (n2 – 1) + V3 (n3 – 1) +…………..
For the two components cellulose and water with the refractive index
of water taken 1.33333.
So, Vr (nr – 1) = Vo (no – 1) + 0.3333r
Where, Vo is the volume of 1 gm of dry cellulose
Vr is the volume of the specimen at a fractional regain r.
and no and nr are the R.I. of the dry and swollen cellulose.
This equation applies to both the Refractive Indexes n|| and n┴.
The equation is,
Vr  n11  n  r  V0  n11  n 

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Dichroism:
The variation in the absorption of radiation by a coloured fibre (by
dyeing) with the direction of polarization of the light is called Dichroism
which may result in the differences in the depth of shade or even in the
actual colour.
We get,
k11
Dichroic or Dichroitic ratio or constant, Ф =
k

Where, k|| = Absorption coefficient for light polarized parallel

to the fibre axis.
k = Absorption coefficient for light polarized
pserpendicular to the fibre axis.

Requirements of Dichroism:
1. The dye molecule must be asymmetrical so that its absorption
of radiation varies with the direction of the electric field
exciting the characteristics vibration.
2. The dye molecule must be absorbed on to the fibre molecule in
a particular direction so that all the dye molecules make the
same angle (or a limited range of angles) with the axis of the
chain molecules.
3. The chain molecules must be preferentially oriented.

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Cross fibre absorb more radiation than parallel fibre:
When light passes through the two Dichroic fibres, there is a greater
total absorption if they are crossed than there is if they are parallel.
The reason is fairly obvious:-
If the fibres are crossed, the first fibre absorbs a large part of one
component and the second fibre absorbs a large part of the
perpendicular component. But if the fibres are parallel, the same
component is transmitted through both little absorption.

Dichroic constant for direct dyes on cellulose:

Fibre Dichroic constant
Ramie 9
Viscose rayon 1.4 – 2.3
Cellophane 1.5

Reflection & Lusture:

Lusture is an important aesthetic property of textile fibre or fabric. If a
beam of light falls on a surface, it may be reflected spectacularly along

Combination of specular
Specular reflexion Diffuse reflexion
& diffusion reflexion

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the angle of reflection as fig (a); diffusely in varying intensity over a
hemi-sphere as in fig (b) or in a combination of both as in fig(c).
The reflection may vary with the angle of incidence and with the colour
and polarization of light. The total visual appearance resulting from
these reflections determines the lusture of the mtl.

Lusture depends on:

1. Incident angle of light:
If the light falls across the fibre or along the fibre.
If a fibre behaved as a perfect reflecting circular cylinder, it would
reflect light as like fig (a) and fig (b).
It is clear that if the light falls across the fibre, it is reflected at various
angles. Where as if it falls along the fibres, here it reflect at constant
angle.

i ¹r i=r

Reflexion of light
Axis in incident plane
Axis normal to incident plane

2. Fineness of fibre:
The fibre the fibres incorporated in a fabric, the greater is the number
of individual reflecting surfaces per unit area of the fabric. Therefore,
fibre fineness affects the lusture for the same types of smoothness and
regularity, the coarser fibres will have more lusture than fiber one.

3) Irregularity of the fibre surface:

Irregularity on the surface of the fibre and in its cross-sectional shape
will cause light to be reflected in various directions and will reduce the

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lusture. It is essential that fibre should be uniform along its length. For
this reason, lusture is greatest in regular filaments, such those of silk
and the M.M.F.

4) Fibre shape:
Fibre shape is an important factor for lusture. The particular types of
lusture associated with nylon, rayon and silk must be vary due to (the
influence on) the pattern of light reflection of their respective circular,
serrated and triangular shape.
Circular → More lusture → → Nylon

Serrated → Dull lusture → → Rayon

Tirangular → Less lusture → → Silk

5) Presentation of small particles on fibre like TiO2 or Minimize the

lusture of M.M.F:
When a beam of light falls on the falls on the fibre, it is not only
reflected but also transmitted. Some of this transmitted light will reflect
from the internal surfaces as fig (a).
If the fibre contains small particles e.g. TiO2 or Cavities as fig (b), these
will scatter the transmitted light at varying angles and cause it to
emerge as particularly diffuse reflection.
TiO2 is used as dellustrants in MMF to reduce its lusture.

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 (b)
(a)
Scattering of transmitted light
Internal reflexion
in delustred fibre

6)Maturity of fibre:
If the maturity is high then the reflection will be high and with these the
lusture will also be high.
Maturity Reflection Lusture

Immature fibre Mature fibre

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