LEARNING MODULE – DRESSMAKING 9 (W5-W8)

Name: ______________________________________
Grade Level/Section: Grade 9
Subject: Technology and Livelihood Education 9 - Dressmaking
Quarter: Third Quarter

Lesson 3-4 (Week 5-8):

 Types of Fasteners and Pockets

MOST ESSENTIAL LEARNING COMPETENCY/IES

1. Identify the uses of different types of fasteners;
2. Apply attaching different types of fasteners on fabric;
3. Show creativity and workmanship on my work;
4. Identify different types of pockets, facing, and hem finishes;
5. Apply attaching different types of pockets, facing, and hem finishes; and
6. Value the importance of pockets in daily life.

CONTENT STANDARD
The learner demonstrates understanding of core concepts and theories in dressmaking lessons.

PERFORMANCE STANDARD
The learner independently demonstrates core competencies in dressmaking as prescribed in the TESDA Training
Regulation.

YOUR LEARNING GOALS/TARGETS

At the end of this module, you are expected to:
 Identify the uses of different types of fasteners;
 Apply attaching different types of fasteners on fabric;
 Show creativity and workmanship on my work;
 Identify different types of pockets, facing, and hem finishes;
 Apply attaching different types of pockets, facing, and hem finishes; and
 Value the importance of pockets in daily life.

Read the Information Sheet very well and find out how much did you learn and understand by
doing Self-Check and do other tasks being specified.

Information Sheet
TYPES OF FASTENERS

Fasteners are used to close opening of your garments. In choosing fasteners, you have to consider the kind of
fabric, the style of the garment, and the location of the fastener. The most commonly used fasteners are the one
described here.

TYPES OF FASTENERS
1. Buttons and Buttonholes – mark the location of buttons before attaching them. The position can be
located by lapping the edges of the opening. They should correspond with the buttonholes.

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 LEARNING MODULE – DRESSMAKING 9 (W5-W8)

How to sew the button on garment:

a. Take one or two small stitches at the point where the button will be attached using double thread.
b. Hold a pin across the top of the button and stitch over it. Sew many times over the pin through the
fabric.
c. Remove the pin and bring the needle between the button and fabric.
d. Wind the thread under the button several times to make a shank. A shank is needed to provide
thickness of the fabric at the buttonhole when the garment is closed. The length of the shank should be
the same as the thickness of the buttonhole.
e. Fasten the thread securely.

How to make hand worked buttonholes:

a. Mark the position on the right side of the garment.
b. Make a rectangle around the marked line by stitching it. The stitching serves as guide for the depth of
the buttonhole.
c. Cut on the buttonhole using sharp scissors.
d. Before you begin to sew make sure that the thread is enough to sew the buttonhole.
e. Begin sewing close to the corner or starting point. Use buttonhole stitch throughout. See to it that they
are parallel to each other in orderly rows.
f. At the end of the slash, make the buttonhole stitches form a fan pattern but they should have the same
length as those in the edges.
g. Continue making buttonhole stitches up to the other end. Make a bar stitching across two or more times
in the same position. The stitches should be in line with the buttonhole stitches on both edges. Fasten
the thread on the wrong side.

2. Snaps – these are used when there is very little strain on the opening. They may be placed on the front,
back and side opening. Snaps have two parts; the half containing the socket.

How to sew the snaps on garment:

a. Mark the location of snap
b. Take a small stitch in the marked location.
c. Sew half of the snap containing the ball using overcast or buttonhole stitch. See to it that no stitches
show on the right side of the cloth. Do these until you finish sewing all the holes then fasten the thread
on the wrong side.
d. To find the location of the center of the corresponding half containing the ball. Mark the center.
e. Sew the socket so that it fits the ball.

3. Hook and Eye – these are used on parts of garment subject to strain. The amount of strain and the weight
of the fabric determine the size of the hook as well as the number of hooks to be used. There are two
shapes of the eyes, either straight or round. Straight eye is usually used when openings overlap while the
round eye is used when edges meet.

How to sew hook and eye in garment:

a. Place the hook on the underside of the overlap or at the edge of the opening.
b. Sew first one ring of the hook using overcast or buttonhole stitch, then sew the other ring. Next, sew
the bill of the hook taking two or three stitches. Be sure no stitches are seen on the right side.
c. On the underlap opposite of the hook, sew the eye and fasten the thread when finished.

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 LEARNING MODULE – DRESSMAKING 9 (W5-W8)
4. Zipper – there are different types of zippers. They may have a metal teeth or synthetic coil, which are seen
on both sides, others have covered teeth.

Zippers are classified into

a. Dress Zippers – both ends of the zipper are closed. These zippers are from 10-14 inches long.
b. Shirt and Neckline Zippers – one end of the zipper is open. The length ranges from 4-30 inches.
c. Separating Zippers – their lengths vary from 10-26 inches. These have metal teeth only. They open on
both ends.

5. Magnetic Tape - Hook-and-loop fasteners, hook-and-pile fasteners, or touch fasteners (colloquially known
as Velcro) consist of two components: typically, two lineal fabric strips (or, alternatively, round "dots" or
squares) which are attached (e.g., sewn, adhered, etc.) to the opposing surfaces to be fastened. The first
component features tiny hooks; the second features even smaller and "hairier" loops. When the two
components are pressed together, the hooks catch in the loops and the two pieces fasten or bind temporarily
during the time that they are pressed together. When separated, by pulling or peeling the two surfaces apart,
the strips make a distinctive "ripping" sound. It is especially popular in clothing where it replaces buttons or
zippers and as a shoe fastener for children who have not yet learned to tie shoelaces and for those who choose
Velcro over laces. Touch fasteners are used in adaptive clothing, which is clothing designed for people with
physical disabilities, the elderly, and the infirm who may experience difficulty dressing them due to an inability
to manipulate closures, such as buttons and zippers.

SELF-CHECK

A. Directions. Identify the words being asked. Write your answer on the blank.
______________ 1. This kind of zippers are from 10-14 inches long.
______________ 2. A hook-and-loop fasteners, hook-and-pile fasteners or touch fasteners.
______________ 3. Used when there is very little strain on the opening.
______________ 4. These are used to close opening of garments
______________ 5. Used on parts of garment subject to strain
______________ 6. A fastener that should correspond with the buttonholes.
______________ 7. A fastener that has a metal teeth or synthetic coil which are seen on both sides
______________ 8. A zipper that has a length ranges from 4-30 inches.
______________ 9. Is needed to provide thickness of the fabric at the buttonhole when the garment is closed.
______________ 10. Is usually used when openings overlap.
B. Essay. Explain your answer briefly.
1. What is the importance of knowing the different kinds of fasteners and its uses in a garment?
2. What is the relevance of this lesson in your daily life? Is this useful? Why?

Sew different types of fasteners on a

Task
5x5 inches fabric.
 Button and buttonholes
 Snap

1
 Hook and eye
 Zipper

Attach the fabric in a bond paper.

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 LEARNING MODULE – DRESSMAKING 9 (W5-W8)

Read the Information Sheet very well and find out how much did you learn and understand by
doing Self-Check and do other tasks being specified.

Information Sheet
TYPES OF POCKETS
Pocket is a small bag or pouch attached to a garment used as a place for money, handkerchiefs, or wallet. Sometimes
pocket is used for decoration.

1. Patch Pocket – attached at the right side of the garment. This is found in blouses, polo shirts, jackets, pants,
dresses, and skirts.

How to Make Patch Pocket

1. Cut 5"x6" size of fabric and mark 3cms top hem and 1 cm side seam allowances.
2. Fold top edge 0.5 cm to the wrong side and stitch.
3. Fold down the top edge along the 3cm allowance to the right side.
4. Stitch along seam allowance or fold line.
5. Trim and turn top edge on the right side.
6. Fold each side of the pocket.
7. Miter the corners.
8. Position and pin the pocket on the garment.
9. Topstitch the pocket leaving 1/8” allowance from the edge.

2. Seam Pocket – placed inside the garment.

How to Make Seam Pocket

1. Place the pocket on the RIGHT side of the garment, RIGHT sides together, pocket facing in towards the
garment. Match the tailor’s tacks / notches together. Pin in place.
2. Machine stitch the pocket in place between the notches, back tack at both ends. Use a 3/8" (1cm) seam
allowance and standard 2.5mm stitch length. Complete for all 4 pieces (2 front and 2 back; if having a pocket
on each side).
3. Open the Pocket out (away from the body of the garment) and press the seam towards the Pocket.
4. Finish the seam using an overlocker or zigzag stitch along the pocket opening and side seam area. The rest
of the seam will be finished as one with the completed pocket at the end. See point 8 for further details and
alternative options.
5. Place the back and front RIGHT sides together. Match the seams together, above and below the Pocket.
Stitch 5/8" (1.5cm) along the side seam of the garment. DO NOT sew over the pocket opening. Sew the
garment in 2 steps; between the Pocket notch and the hem, and the Pocket notch and the underarm. Back tack
at the start and
The end of the seam.
6. Next stitch around the Pocket itself, start and stop at the stitching line joining the garment pieces together.
Sew a 5/8" (1.5cm) seam allowance around the pocket in a circular motion... REMEMBER no square corners!
7. Neaten the raw edges on the pocket with an overlocked or zigzag machine stitch. Alternatively, if you are
adding a lining don't waste the time! With this example both seam allowances were overlocked together on the
original garment, so for continuity the seam was overlocked from the underarm down, around the pocket,
finishing at the hem. This was pressed to the front with the pocket.

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 LEARNING MODULE – DRESSMAKING 9 (W5-W8)
3. Welt Pocket - Welt pockets are a great option when you want to add a pocket to a garment without the added bulk
of a pocket flap, for example on slim-fitting pants or the front of a blazer.

How to Make Welt Pocket

1. For each pocket, you’ll need a welt (this should measure the length of your pocket plus 1/2 inch and double
the width of your desired welt plus 1 inch), two pocket pieces, matching thread, contrasting thread, and tailor's
chalk or a water erasable marking pen.
2. To begin, fold the welt in half lengthwise, right sides together, and sew the short ends together with a 1/4-
inch seam allowance.
3. Clip the top corners of the welt to reduce bulk.
4. Turn and press.
5. Using a contrasting color thread, baste the welt together 1/2 inch from the raw edge.
6. With contrasting thread, baste a 1/4-inch seam on the top edge of pocket piece A.
7. Mark the placement of the pocket opening on the right side of your garment with chalk or a marking pen.
The opening should be equal to the finished size of the welt. Mark the middle of the placement with a horizontal
line.
8. On the right side of your garment, line up the raw edge of the welt with the center line. With the right side
down, line up the basted edge of pocket piece A on the top half of the center line. Pin the welt and pocket
piece in place.
9. Stitch the welt in place along the contrasting stitching line. Stitch the pocket in place along the contrasting
stitching line. Remove the basting stitches.
10. On the wrong side of the garment, cut through the center line, stopping 1/2 inch from either end. Clip the
ends into a Y shape. The triangles will be stitched down later to secure the pocket.
11. Push the pocket through and adjust to lay flat. Press. Turn the welt up and press.
12. With the right side down, sew pocket piece B to the welt along the raw edge.
13. Fold the fabric back and sew the triangles to the pocket (backstitch a couple of times for a strong seam). If
your fabric is particularly bulky, use the zipper foot to get as close as possible to the bottom of the triangle.
14. Sew the pocket together and finish the edges. Pinking the edges is the quickest option and won't add any
extra bulk to the pocket.
15. On the right side of the garment, hand stitch the short edges of the welt to the garment.

TYPES OF FACING AND INTERFACING

Facing do much good for the look and comfort of garments. The purpose of a facing is to neatly finish and
conceal raw edges by turning it to the wrong side of the garment. Facing is made beautifully if it lies flat and
smooth.

1. Fitted facing – it is found in necklines and armholes. It is trace on the necklines and armholes and is cut 2
inches wide.

2. Extended Facing – it is found in polo shirts front opening, blouses, blazers, and vest. It is 2 ½ or 3 inches
wide for the blouse or polo shirt with sports collar or standing collar.

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 LEARNING MODULE – DRESSMAKING 9 (W5-W8)
3. Bias Facing – to do this, cut a bias strip four times desired width
plus ¼” plus 2” for finishing the ends. Double fold the bias and place on
the right side of the garment with 1” extending beyond the closing
edges and sew. Clip the seam allowances and turn to remove bulkiness.
Turn the folded bias on the wrong side and baste. Top stitch. Finally
lock the closing edges with a hood and eye. This is used to finish the
waistline of the skirt without a band. It is also used in finishing the
neckline and armhole or arm girth of a blouse.

Interfacing gives shape to buttonholes, collars, lapels and waistbands of a garment. To do this, pin or
baste the interfacing on top of the wrong side of the 2 parts of fabric. The interfacing could be of the same materials or
pelon, truvenized cloth or coco.

HEM FINISHES – is a finish made by folding the lower edge of skirts, blouses, sleeves, and other parts of a garment.

a. Seam tape or Binding – this prevents raveling and gives a smooth appearance to hems. The common materials
used are commercial bias made of silk, cottons and ribbons.

b. Stitched and Overcast – the hem is invisible from the outside, stitched securely without bulk. Stitch ¼” from
the raw edge using overcast edge. Using this stitching as guide, turn the edge back 1/4” and blind them.

c. Stitched and Pinked – an effective finish for fabrics which do no ravel. 1/4” of fabric is stitched from the free
raw and the edge is pinked and hemstitched.

d. Turned Under – this is used in light and medium weight washable fabrics, on sheers and limp hems. To do this,
turn in the raw edge ¼” and stitch close to the fold.

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 LEARNING MODULE – DRESSMAKING 9 (W5-W8)
e. Zigzag finished edge – this is an effective finish for fabrics that easily ravel. To do this, stitch ¼” from the
zigzag edge and hemstitch.

SELF – CHECK

A. Directions. IDENTIFICATION. Identify the word being asked. Write your answer on the blank.
_________________ 1. An effective finish for fabrics that easily ravel.
_________________ 2. The hem is invisible from the outside, stitched securely without bulk.
_________________ 3. Found in necklines and armholes.
_________________ 4. Gives shape to buttonholes, collars, lapels and waistbands of garments.
_________________ 5. A finish made by folding the lower edge of skirts, blouses, sleeves and other parts of a
garment.
_________________ 6. A pocket to a garment without the added bulk of a pocket flap, for example on slim fitting
pants.
_________________ 7. Attached at the right side of the garment.
_________________ 8. A pocket placed inside the garment.
_________________ 9. The purpose of this is to neatly finish and conceal raw edges by turning it to the wrong side
of the garment.
_________________ 10. An effective finish for fabrics which do not ravel.

B. Draw and define the three different types of pockets.

Task 2
Sew a sampler of the following in a 5x5 inches fabric
and attached it in a bond paper.
A. Sew the different types of pockets on a fabric.
 Patch
 Seam
 Welt

B. Sew the different types of hem finishes

 Stitched and Overcast
 Stitched and Pinked
 Turned Under
 Zigzag finished edge

Congratulations!
You have successfully completed this journey, brace yourself up for more excitement, fun and new life-learning lessons and
experiences in this new normal platform!

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