Report on Garment Appreciation by Reversing

the Manufacturing Processes

Fashion Material and Production Management for

Merchandisers

Submitted to: Mr. Ksan Kupar

Submitted by: Adya Manishi
MFM/21/449
Contents
1. Introduction.........................................................................................................................................3
2. Methods..............................................................................................................................................4
i. Mechanical......................................................................................................................................4
ii. Chemical..........................................................................................................................................5
3. Advantages..........................................................................................................................................6
4. Challenges...............................................................................................................................................7
5. Market for reverse manufactured garments...........................................................................................8
6. Designers pursuing reverse manufacturing.............................................................................................9
7. Conclusion.............................................................................................................................................13
Bibliography...............................................................................................................................................14
 1.Introduction

Reverse manufacturing of garments is a very ethical and sustainable approach of

the garment industry. This process involves recycling of waste garments and
fabrics which are converted into new materials of better quality and a higher
environmental value. As a result of using existing materials, the consumption of
new raw materials for new products is reduced, so that less energy is needed, less
air pollution, less water pollution, and reduced CO2 emission paving the way
towards zero waste. In this method, pre- and post-consumer waste are
repurposed by using creative methods to use old products and materials.
Reimagining and reusing produce minimal after-effects, which makes reverse
manufacturing a possible solution to environmental dilemmas.

Pandemic lockdowns have altered people's love of fast fashion, as well as

discussions on social media about the failing economy. As a result, people are
thinking twice about replacing damaged items and looking for tailors and darners
who upcycle their clothing. We have the opportunity to realize our need to save,
stretch what we own, and yet be in harmony with nature through these
professional up cyclers. 
 2.Methods
i. Mechanical

The most commonly used technique in this industry is mechanical processing. To

manufacture textiles, about 7.6 million bales of cotton were used in the United
States, with each bale weighing 500 pounds. After being separated from different
materials, cotton can be recycled mechanically. Raw materials are sorted by color
after initial sorting to prevent re-dying and bleaching. Fibers are then separated
from textile material after it is shredded. It is not yet usable and needs to be
aligned before spinning. This process is known as carding. Since recycled cotton
fibers are shorter and of a lower quality, the fibers are now spun with some virgin
cotton fibers.

(Saha, 2020)
ii. Chemical

Through chemical processes, textile recycling depolymerizes or dissolves fabric

fibers into monomers or solvents. This is done in order to create new fiber
compounds or to isolate one fiber compound from a mix. Most of the time, the
reprocessed products are of the same quality as their virgin counterparts, and no
physical properties are lost as a result of the recycling process. In terms of
technology, chemical recycling, enzymes, controlled environments, etc., is far
superior to mechanical recycling. This process has the advantage of fewer
limitations in the form of fabric such as woven, knit, and hence can cater to a
wide range of products such as jackets, auto parts, home decors, etc.

(Notman, n.d.)
 3. Advantages
The global problem of discarded textiles has
grown. Unlike natural fibers, man-made fibers
do not decompose. Clothing made of wool
decomposes but releases methane and carbon
dioxide into the atmosphere. This contributes
to global warming. Garbage in landfills releases
nitrous oxide, which is a powerful greenhouse
gas. Furthermore, toxic substances present in
fabrics pollute waterways and the surrounding soil.

There are many significant benefits of textile recycling:

i. Recycle textile provide low-cost quality clothing.

ii. Keeping used textile out of trash reduces disposal cost of government
iii. Lesser energy is consumed while processing.
iv. Protecting the planet for future generation.
v. Textile recycling saves energy and reduces pollution.
vi. Recycling provides both environmental and economic benefits.
vii. Textile recycling reduces pressure on new resources.
viii. Textile recycling reduces the demand for dyes and fixing agents.
(fibertofashion, n.d.)
 4. Challenges

There has been much attention paid to the reuse of post-consumer clothes and, in
many ways, it is one of the first steps taken towards sustainability. Taking part in
the process of recycling garments is also something consumers can do actively by
donating. Each of the fashion market segments of haute couture, ready to wear
(pret-a-porter), mass-market including premium, mid-market, fast fashion, and
discount markets experience design challenges in recycling and upcycling.

At the high end, the problems are translating designs to scale, while at the low
end, they are securing a reliable supply of materials. Individual creative responses
are required for sorting in terms of size, color, and fabric. Upcycling used
garments is a field dominated by small to medium enterprises due to the
requirement for innovative material responses.

The fashion industry does not tend to worry about the arduous complexities of
legislation, but it does operate in a legal construct, including legislation,
regulation, tax incentives, tariffs, concessions, awards, standards, provision of
services, compliance, and audits introduced by all levels of government. Many
policy changes can be made by Governments (as well as advocacy groups
persuading them) to create incentives for behavioral change within the sector.

There are quantitative methods for measuring impact and improving the quality
of processes (e.g., benchmarking, indices, metrics, testing, auditing, reporting,
and accounting) and end products (e.g., packaging/transportation), keeping in
mind that recycling / upcycling adds to the complexity of what is fast becoming a
crowded marketplace with textile accreditations and certifications.

 
 5. Market for reverse manufactured garments

The market for recycled garments is difficult to assess. An educated generation

that is aware of the limits of the planet and its finite resources is driving the trend.
Moreover, there is nothing new about recycling. During the 19th century, "Rag
and Bone" men collected household waste and sold it to merchants. The trend of
selling fabric ends with "fabric jobbers" and the growth of the vintage and
second-hand clothing markets has followed.

The Textile Exchange Fast Facts report says that more than 70% of American
households use secondhand clothing, and women's clothes are seven times more
popular than men. Approximately 15% of the municipal waste stream in
developed countries consists of textile scrap, and the maximum recovery rate is
95%.

In a world where an apparel product can be manufactured, delivered to the

retailer, and last for up to ten years, the pile of products at the end of the apparel
supply chain will continue to grow. Whenever a recycled item is reintroduced to
the market, particularly at retail, it establishes a lower price for clothes in the
minds of consumers. As a result, front-end costs in the apparel supply chain will
drop dramatically and will drive new sustainable apparel models.
 6. Designers pursuing reverse manufacturing
i. Meghna Nayak

LataSita | Dresses made from puja pandals

While her bespoke pieces are made from fabric sent through her ‘Send Us Your
Saree’ campaign, her prêt line uses a huge variety of materials, including jeans,
tablecloths and curtains.

ii. Aiswarya Kutty and Madhulika Umapathy

Pomogrenade | Reversible jacket dress

Using locally-produced fabric and textile waste, their functional clothing

underlines their message of ethical fashion. While their adaptable designs — such
as a reversible dress with a ‘U’ and ‘V’ neck than can also turn into a jacket — are
their signature, they believe their USP is their pricing. Their new ‘Zoomtastic’ line
of shorts are a hit, and the duo is now expanding their upcycled line.

iii. Kavisha Parikh

Patch Over Patch | Paneled kaftan dresses

In her shift dresses, cotton blazers, and kimono jackets, her designs are
sustainable and have a minimal carbon footprint. She layered and quilted 25
different pieces of fabric in one of her most challenging designs. Besides upcycling
post-production waste from wholesale markets and local shops in Surat and
Ahmedabad, she also uses waste from her own production line.

iv. Lovebirds x Smoke Lab

Smoke Wear | Suede rompers

We are in a world that has limited resources and this is a reality we wanted to
negotiate, experiment and be creative with. Lovebirds x Smoke Lab has used only
upcycled materials [including handwoven denim and handloom fabric] that was
available in the studio, and reimagined as luxe and timeless pieces. According to
the designer, the demand has increased during lockdown, with customers opting
for “non-cluttered, easy-to-wear basics”.

v. Aneeth Arora
Pero | Layered and embroidered jackets

Pero’s upcycling initiative began with one of Arora’s much-worn denim jackets.
Now at least two decades old, it has been repaired and embellished with tassels
and badges from her travels. (Susanna Myrtle Lazarus, 2020)
 7. Conclusion
It can be predicted that the textile recycling industry will continue to grow as
society becomes more aware of the risks associated with dumping old textiles in
landfills, and as new recycling technologies are developed. The awareness of
waste collection and recycling is increasing in the current generation. Buying such
recycled products will reduce the amount of waste that goes to landfills by
developing a market for recycled textiles.

There are, however, some requirements that need to be met to ensure a

successful upcycling design and production process. Ultimately, to put the
upcycling model into practice requires the initiative of fashion brands, because
they have the power to order upcycled garments and therefore reduce the
amount of textile waste and leftovers generated during the manufacturing
process.
Bibliography
fibertofashion. (n.d.). Retrieved from https://www.fibre2fashion.com/:
https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/3197/textile-recycling

Kellock, J. (n.d.). Retrieved from fibre to fashion:

https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/7279/recycling-and-upcycling-in-the-apparel-
industry

Kellock, J. (n.d.). https://www.fibre2fashion.com/. Retrieved from fiber to fashion:

https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/7279/recycling-and-upcycling-in-the-apparel-
industry

Notman, N. (n.d.). Retrieved from https://www.chemistryworld.com/:

https://www.chemistryworld.com/features/recycling-clothing-the-chemical-way/
4010988.article

Saha, S. ( 2020, August 23). https://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/. Retrieved from

https://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2020/08/textile-recycling-mechanical-recycling.html

Susanna Myrtle Lazarus, N. A. (2020, AUGUST 25). https://www.thehindu.com/. Retrieved from The
Hindu: https://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/fashion/waste-not-want-not-upcycled-
clothing-and-accessories-for-your-post-lockdown-wardrobe/article32358078.ece