Cosmetics and Toiletries 2018.11.12-dl

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November/December 2018
Passive Silicone
Conditioning
Cetyl
Alcohol’s
Tricks
Touch
Unlocks
Skin Care
Soft Focus from

New Angles
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Contents | C&T ®
Nov/Dec 2018 | Volume 133, number 10
6 Editor’s Note: Captivating Consumers
8 Industry Insight: Crossing Cues to

Build Sensory Perceptions
Cover Story
8 [video] Building Product Perceptions

DIGITAL
EDITION with G. Daniels
Visit cosmeticsandtoiletries.texterity.com
for your Digital Edition.
26
72 Ad Index
Market Intelligence
10 Technology Launches
12 Product Roundup
Thickeners and Sensory Products
Research
20 Cetyl Alcohol
A Multifunctional Addition to Formulators’ Toolboxes
by P. Bahadur, Ph.D., and S. Narasimhan, Ph.D.
DE6 How Touch Unlocks Skin Care’s Power

DIGITAL
by K. Steventon, Ph.D.
EDITION
DE7 [video] The Power of Touch in

DIGITAL
Skin Care
20
EDITION
by K. Steventon, Ph.D.
Testing
36 26 Behind the ‘Gloss’

Multiple Angles Reveal New Soft-focus Insights
by D. Benderly, Ph.D.
26 From the Vault:

DIGITAL
EDITION Predicting Soft Focus Effects
36 Testing Tactics
Quantifying Visual Aspects of Hair
by T.A. Evans, Ph.D.
2 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 133, No. 10 | November/December 2018
CT1811_12_TOC_Masthead_fcx.indd 2 11/5/18 9:49 AM

NEW
www.lucasmeyercosmetics.com

Editor’s note | C&T ®
Contents | C&T ®
2017 FOLIO: Award Winner
EDITORIAL
Editor in Chief Jeb Gleason-Allured | 1-630-344-6069/jallured@allured.com
Senior Managing Editor Katie Anderson | 1-630-344-6077/kanderson@allured.com
46
Managing Editor Rachel L. Grabenhofer | 1-630-344-6072/rgrabenhofer@allured.com
Assistant Editor Brooke Schleehauf | 1-630-344-6032/bschleehauf@allured.com
News Editor Eden Stuart | 630-344-6053/estuart@allured.com

46 Unassuming Softness ADVERTISING SALES

Silicone Conditions Hair Without Business Development Manager Jolly Patel | 1-630-344-6061/jpatel@allured.com
Affecting Dyes, Perms or Pores Fragrance Sales Paige Crist | 1-630-344-6060/pcrist@allured.com
Advertising Coordinator Kasia Smialkowski | 1-630-344-6025/ksmialkowski@allured.com
by Y. Tsujino
AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT
Regulatory Marketing Specialist Katy Chitwood
Customer Service 1-888-355-5962/customerservice@cosmeticsandtoiletries.com
14 EU Regulatory Update
DESIGN
Measuring Europe’s Microplastic Response
Graphic Design Manager Lisa Hede
by C. Flower, Ph.D., and E. Meredith, Ph.D. Graphic Designer James Fergus
Production Manager Bryan Crowe
18 CIR Conclusion
Parabens Are Safe CORPORATE
Partner & CEO George Fox
by B. Heldreth, Ph.D.
Partner & President Janet Ludwig
CFO Rich Winters
E10 CIR Conclusion (continued)
D Director of Events Maria Prior
DIGITAL

EDITION by B. Heldreth, Ph.D. Digital Products Director Rose Southard
Executive Assistant Maria Romero
OTHER ALLURED PRODUCTS
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries Bench Reference
Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine: Portuguese edition
Face & Body Midwest Spa Expo and Conference
58 Judgement Stands Face & Body Northern California Spa Expo and Conference
Face & Body Southeast Spa Expo and Conference
Emollient Profiling Proven Consistent Over Time Flavorcon
Global Cosmetic Industry magazine
by C. Marque Perfumer & Flavorist magazine
Skin Inc. magazine
61 [video] Formulating Cream-gels World Perfumery Congress

DIGITAL
EDITION with IFF/Lucas Meyer
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70 Skin Care Formulary carry the endorsement of the publisher.
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CT1811_12_TOC_Masthead_fcx.indd 4 11/5/18 9:49 AM

WHERE
THE
WORLD
COMES
TO ITS
SENSES
+1 973 748 8980 | WWW.BERJEINC.COM Boronia megastima

Editor’s Note | C&T ®
Captivating Consumers
Novelty may move cosmetic products off the shelf, but hedonic experiences tap into
consumer emotion, ensuring greater success and loyal returns. However, a more recent
approach to consumer engagement takes this to the next level: experiential marketing.
As the marketing firm Agency EA reports,1 spending on experiential marketing, defined as
“the convergence of media platforms and channels to shape the way consumers experience
brands,” was at US $562 billion in 2015; that’s billion with a b. This market is projected to
grow to $743 billion by the year 2020. Why? According to the group, “The power of one-sided
mass advertising is waning in the era of customization.”
The very nature of cosmetics is intimately immersed in consumer experience. Engineers
shape striking package concepts to engage the user’s touch. Perfumers seduce user curiosity
with compulsory, sniff-driving scents. Cosmetic scientists captivate with the touch of exotic,
soothing and surprising formulas. In fact, as Daniels explains on Page 8, technology has
enabled science to cross all these cues for unexpected effects.
This issue is dedicated to the art of crafting sensory cues and benefits into personal care
formulations. On Page 26, we see the blurring and soft-focus effects of pigments from new
angles. Confirmation of the conditioning and hair-softening properties of silicones
in hair—and negation of pore-clogging and dye- and perm-affecting claims—is
demonstrated on Page 46. Also, a profiling technique to capture the feel and
sensory effects of emollients in skin care is validated beginning on Page 58.
Finally, fully embracing this strategy of enhancing user experience, we at
Cosmetics & Toiletries (C&T) have added audio, video, archives, expanded
content, exclusive articles and more to our digital edition. Have you noticed?
Be sure to engage in these bonus formats; there’s so much more to
your C&T experience. Don’t miss out!
1. https://agencyea.com/thinking/insights/value-experiential-marketing/ Rachel L. Grabenhofer

C&T Managing Editor
CT1811_12_Editors_Note_fcx.indd 6 11/2/18 2:21 PM

For the past 30 years, we have been driving positive
change in perceptions of natural emollients. Opening up
new opportunities for use across cosmetic applications. Our
technologically advanced innovations deliver on sustainability
and enable the development of high-performance beauty
products. Join us in pushing the boundaries of possibilities
and experience the difference yourself.
Find out more at aakpersonalcare.com

Scientific Industry Insight | C&T ®
Advisory Board
Crossing Cues to
Eric Abrutyn
TPC2 Advisors Ltd. Build Sensory Perceptions
Zoe Diana Draelos, M.D.
Besides sight, scent is perhaps our most primordial sensory
Dermatology input. As such, it underscores everyday life experiences
Consulting Services and our interpretations of them. Last month, experimen-
Angela R. Eppler, Ph.D.
tal psychologist and Frontiers of Science award presenter
Pfizer Consumer Healthcare Charles Spence, Ph.D., initiated the conversation on
crossing such sensory cues to elevate cosmetic product
Trefor Evans, Ph.D. experiences. This month, Gabriela Daniels, of the London
TA Evans LLC
College of Fashion, describes a master’s degree project
S. Peter Foltis demonstrating just that. In the following excerpt, adapted
L’Oréal from a video interview at the 2018 IFSCC Congress in
Mindy Goldstein, Ph.D.
Munich, she explains the findings.
C&T: Describe the study and the underlying principles in

Atlantic Coast Media Group
Shuzo Ishidate, Ph.D. which you were interested.

Shiseido Research Center
John Jiménez Daniels: Two different fragrances were incorporated into

Belcorp Colombia a product designed to make hair smoother and softer—a
leave-on conditioning product containing (or not) a polymer,
Karl Laden, Ph.D.
PEG-14. One fragrance was fruity, and as everyone in the
Alpa Cosmetics
hair care industry knows, fruit fragrances make shampoos
Prithwiraj Maitra, Ph.D. feel more effective in terms of conditioning. The other was
Johnson & Johnson a green/herbal fragrance, which, according to market data,
is preferred by today’s youth. The goal was to explore the
Jennifer Marsh, Ph.D.
Procter & Gamble cross-modal effect between the presence of fragrance, nature
of fragrance and sensory quality of hair, as determined by
Marc Pissavini, Ph.D. smoothness, softness and ease of combing variables.
Coty-Lancaster
Luigi Rigano, Ph.D.

C&T: What did you observe?
Daniels: All fragranced
Industrial Consulting Research
Sylvianne Schnebert, M.D. samples created the percep-

LVMH Recherche
tion of better-conditioned hair
Ron Sharpe even without the polymer. The
Amway fruit fragrance also made hair
Leslie C. Smith, Ph.D.

feel smoother, regardless of the VIDEO
subjects’ initial preference for the
Consultant
green fragrance.
David C. Steinberg
Steinberg & Associates C&T: What did you conclude? Building Product Perceptions
Peter Tsolis
The Estée Lauder Companies
Daniels: We realized this
was a so-called cross-modality,
Russel Walters, Ph.D. whereby a change in one can
Johnson & Johnson influence the other. Our conclu-
sion was that if the modality of
Claudie Willemin
L’Oréal touch was changed, e.g., with the
silicone, that this is detectable
Shuliang Zhang, Ph.D. most likely only when you have a
Coty, Inc. fragrance that is congruent with
the desired sensory experience.
If the fragrance is not congruent,
it is less likely the consumer will
believe the product works.
CT1811_12_Industry_Insight_DE.indd 8 11/9/18 1:38 PM

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Bring an aura of magic to your skin, sun and color cosmetics systems. OILKEMIA™ 5S polymer is a multi-functional
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enabling an array of alluring textures. It provides excellent thickening efficiency, clarity, suspension, and stability,
together with a pleasant non-tacky feel in a variety of anhydrous or emulsion systems. From clear oil gels to smooth
pigmented sticks, OILKEMIA™ 5S polymer lets you create products that indulge the senses and the imagination.
To request more information visit go.lubrizol.com/OILKEMIA.
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Technology Launches
Climatic Control Sensory Suspense
Gattefossé entered the hair care segment with Definicire Lubrizol’s Oilkemia 5S Polymer (INCI: Caprylic/Capric
(INCI: Jojoba Esters (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Triglyceride (and) Polyurethane-79) reportedly offers
Seed Wax (and) Polyglycerin-3), a natural texturizer meant stability, clarity and sensory appeal to formulations
to provide control to unruly hair in climatic conditions. The with suspended beads, exfoliants, etc. The rheology
smoothing ingredient is reportedly close to sebum in chemical modifier can stabilize emulsifier-free emulsions for use
structure and is designed to act as a biodegradable alternative in textures that span thin, nondripping systems to solid
to silicones and quaternary compounds in hair conditioners, stick formulations. These include color cosmetics, shaving
after-style products and masks. products and wipes, along with facial, lip and eye care.
www.gattefosse.com www.lubrizol.com
Matte Match-up Skin Barrier Boost
Merck KGaA, Darmstadt, Germany’s Ronastar Black Allure Silab’s Recoverine (INCI: Water (aqua) (and) Castanea Sativa
pigment (INCI: Iron Oxides (and) Silica (and) Titanium (Chestnut) Seed Extract) is a natural active derived from
Dioxide (and) Mica) mixes the matte trend and silica chestnuts to maximize the potential for skin barrier repair.
technology to, in part, color-match skin tones in foundations. The ingredient’s chestnuts are locally harvested to ensure a
A rich, black shade, the vegan pigment is based on spherical homogenous quality and sustainable supply chain. After 14
silica substrate. It may be used in color applications such days of use at 2.5%, skin was shown to be more moisturized,
as foundations, mascara and eyebrow products, along with luminous and soft, according to in vivo testing.
shower gel and shampoo. www.emdgroup.com www.silab.fr
CT1811_12_Tech_Launches_fcx.indd 10 11/2/18 3:00 PM

CREATING TOMORROW’S SOLUTIONS
BEAUTY MEETS
SUSTAINABILITY
BELSIL ® ECO
Sustainable production of beauty products now has a name: BELSIL® eco. WACKER is the first manufacturer in
the world to offer valuable silicones manufactured according to methods that have been certified to conserve
resources – and that use biomethanol from natural sources. This not only conserves fossil-based raw materials:
the use of renewable biobased materials also sets a benchmark when it comes to sustainable production using
silicone ingredients. And you benefit from environmentally friendly silicone additives of consistently high quality.
So use BELSIL® eco and make your production processes responsible and environmentally sound.
More information is available at: www.wacker.com/belsileco www.wacker.com/socialmedia

Roundup [Ingredients, Equipment & Services]
Thickeners and Sensory Products
1. Luviset One
1
BASF Care Creations
www.carecreations.basf.com
Luviset One (INCI: Acrylates/Methacrylamide Copolymer) offers a
new level of performance for hair-styling products. The polymer
has been designed to offer both styling and thickening properties
while being easy to handle and process. It offers excellent setting
performance, and is compatible with anionic, nonionic and
cationic styling resins.
2. Cetasol-Velvet
Vevy Europe S.p.A.
www.vevy.com
2
Cetasol-Velvet (INCI: Acetylated Glycol Stearate (and) Propylene
Glycol Citrate (and) Isodecyl Laurate (and) Octyldodecyl Myristate)
is a texturing agent with strong emollient action and conditioning
effects. It is a low-melting, non-sticky paste acting as a stabilizer
and plasticizer of cosmetic formulations. It confers a velvet skin
feel and silicone-like texture without residual greasiness. It
also confers a homogeneous structure to emulsions, ensuring
microdispersion of water-soluble matters.
3
3. Powder Form Oils
Arista Industries, Inc.
www.aristaindustries.com
Just about any oil can be loaded into a powder base to create
these Powder Form Oils (INCI: Varies) for use in scrubs, personal
care and skin care products. The oil is loaded into a dry base,
normally at 50% maltodextrin, but non-GMO tapioca also can
be used.
4. Biophilic H
Lucas Meyer Cosmetics
An efficient natural emulsifier, Biophilic H (INCI: Hydrogenated
4
Lecithin (and) C12-16 Alcohols (and) Palmitic Acid) acts as
a skin complexion perfector, keeps the skin moisturized and
enhances the bioavailability and penetration of active ingredients
for improved efficacy. Studies show that Biophilic H also has an
immediate smoothing effect and boosts hyaluronic acid efficacy
on wrinkles after one hour.
CT1811_12_Roundup_fcx.indd 12 11/2/18 3:03 PM

5
5. Biowax
Biosil Technologies
www.biosiltech.com
Biowax (INCI: PEG-8 Dimethicone) is a series of water-soluble
silicones suitable for a variety of personal care and cosmetic
applications. PEG-8 Dimethicone provides significant slip and
cushion in most skin care applications and has a low odor
profile compared with dimethicone copolyols. It is an excellent
texture modifier and also can provide secondary emulsification in
challenging systems. The company offers three different product
grades of this water-soluble silicone.
6. Bladderwrack Frond
Bio-Botanica Inc.
www.bio-botanica.com
Bladderwrack Frond (INCI: Fucus Vesiculosus Extract) is
6
an effective antioxidant for skin. It is an edible brown sea
vegetable that grows the North Atlantic. One important element
found in bladderwrack is iodine. Individuals report noticeable
improvements to skin conditions such as eczema and acne
after using bladderwrack. It is rich in calcium, magnesium,
potassium, sodium and iron, along with being high in some
B-complex vitamins.
7. ColaLipid GS
Colonial Chemical Inc.
www.colonialchem.com
ColaLipid GS (INCI: Sodium Grapeseed Amidopropyl
PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate) is a multifunctional
surfactant derived from grapeseed oil that is highly substantive
to hair and skin. Providing a smooth, velvety feel in a variety of
personal care products. It also helps to reduce the dryness left
7
behind by common sulfate-free surfactants.
Vol. 133, No. 10 | November/December 2018 Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 13
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Regulatory | C&T ®
KEY POINTS
• Microplastics, and their use in cosmetics and
personal care, have been a topic of discussion
and regulation in recent years.
• Here, authors review the European personal

care industry's response to microplastic
research and controversy, from proactive
measures to what comes next.
EU Regulatory Update
Measuring Europe's
Microplastic Response
Chris Flower, Ph.D.
Emma Meredith, Ph.D.
CTPA, London
T he focus on plastics and their environmen-

tal fate has grown in recent years. Indeed,
during the summer of 2016, the media in the
U.K. was at fever pitch on the topic, and the
cosmetics industry was, in the opinion of
Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association
(CTPA), unfairly singled out as a major contributor to the issue.
The problem of plastic pollution in our oceans and waterways
is, of course, extremely serious. However, we must tackle the
major sources of plastic pollution and review our use and reuse
of plastic, both on a personal and an industrial level, if we are to
Reproduction in English or any other language of

14 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. Vol. 133, No. 10 | November/December 2018
© 2018 Allured Business Media.
CT1811_12_Regulatory_CPTA_fcx.indd 14 11/2/18 3:07 PM

Through research and activities on the
disposal of plastic, the cosmetics industry is
working to be a part of the wider solution.
reduce the presence of microplastics in the Throughout 2017, the U.K. government con-
aquatic environment. sulted on proposed legislations that culminated
This article highlights the latest actions in the in the passing of a ban on plastic microbeads
U.K. and EU, focusing on plastic microbeads and in rinse-off cosmetic products in December
microplastics, some of which have the potential 2017, which is now in force. The voluntary
to impact the cosmetics and personal care action meant the industry was well-prepared to
industry greatly with questionable benefit to the comply with the U.K. legislation.
marine environment. The following definitions are employed
within the U.K. law:
Plastic Microbeads Microbead means any water-insoluble solid
Voluntary industry action: It is recognized plastic particle of less than or equal to 5 mm
that cosmetic products make only a very small in any dimension.
contribution to the big problem of microplastics Plastic means a synthetic polymeric
in the marine environment. In its report on substance that can be molded, extruded or
plastics in marine environments,1 Eunomia esti- physically manipulated into various solid
mated cosmetic products contributed to 0.29% forms and that retains its final manufactured
of plastic entering the marine environment. shape during use in its intended applications.
Nevertheless, as a responsible industry and in Rinse-off personal care product means any
order to facilitate sectorwide best practice, the substance, or mixture of substances, manufac-
European Personal Care Association, Cosmetics tured for the purpose of being applied to any
Europe, issued a recommendation in 2015 to relevant human body part in the course of any
discontinue the use of synthetic, solid and plastic personal care treatment, by an application that
particles (i.e., plastic microbeads) used for entails at its completion the prompt and specific
exfoliating and cleansing that are nonbiodegrad- removal of the product (or any residue of the
able in the aquatic environment by 2020.2 The product) by washing or rinsing with water,
recommendation built off of voluntary initiatives rather than leaving it to wear off, wash off, or
already taken by individual member companies be absorbed or shed in the course of time.
of Cosmetics Europe.
By the end of 2017, Cosmetics Europe mem- Microplastics EU Activity
bership demonstrated a 97.6% decrease in usage The European Commission launched a
of plastic microbeads per the recommendation.3 strategy concerning microplastics in January
To facilitate global alignment, Cosmetics Europe 2018.5 As part of this focus, the Commission
is also working in close contact with its interna- requested that the European Chemicals Agency
tional association partners. (ECHA) prepare an Annex XV Restriction Dos-
U.K.: As a member of Cosmetics Europe, sier—under Regulation (EC) No. 1907/2006 of
CTPA was promoting the recommendation to the
U.K. cosmetics industry. Therefore, voluntary
action was already taking place ahead of the
proposed U.K. legislation. Product packaging is also seeing scaled-down
Per the recommendation, the U.K. began plastic usage—recent innovations include
voluntarily removing plastic microbeads from upcycled materials, compostable paper and
wash-off cosmetics in 2015; in fact, before the inserts made of renewable, natural fibers.
U.K. legislation was proposed, CTPA members
had achieved a 70% reduction in the use of
plastic microbeads and had committed to 100% Source: Global Cosmetic Industry
removal by 2018.4 (www.GCImagazine.com)

Measuring Europe's Microplastic Response
The focus on plastics and their environmental fate has grown in recent years.
the European Parliament and of the Council on assessment. It must be noted that some of these
the Registration, Evaluation, Authorization and substances, covered by the ECHA definition, are
Restriction of CHemicals (REACH)—concern- not considered to be microplastics according
ing the use of intentionally added microplastic to the above industry definition of a plastic,
particles to consumer or professional-use which is also used across many pieces of global
products. To that end, ECHA issued a call for legislation including the U.K. legislation on
evidence between March and May on the inten- plastic microbeads.
tional uses of microplastic particles in products Cosmetics Europe made a robust submission
of any kind—not just cosmetics. to ECHA, including a comprehensive socioeco-
The restriction proposal6 has been added nomic impact assessment, and provided a paper
to the Registry of Intentions on ECHA’s web- on the importance of scientific definitions and a
site; the information submitted to the call for review of the current science.
evidence for the Annex XV Restriction Dossier ECHA is now reviewing the evidence
will be used to determine if any derogations are tendered and the anticipated submission date
required for the potential restriction. of an Annex XV report describing ECHA’s
The call’s scope was extremely broad, and investigation, and any proposed restriction, is
its definition of microplastic in the ECHA is of Jan. 11, 2019. The Report will then be reviewed
great concern: “Any polymer-containing solid or by the European Committee for Risk Assess-
semisolid particle having a size of 5 mm or less ment (RAC) and Committee for Socio-economic
in at least one external dimension.” Note that Analysis (SEAC).
both natural and synthetic polymers and both If ECHA maintains its working definition of
solid and semisolid are included. “any polymer-containing solid or semisolid par-
Given the very short timeframe for data- ticle” as the basis for a restriction, the impact
gathering, Cosmetics Europe sought input from on the cosmetics and personal care industry
its membership across the EU on 19 specific would be catastrophic, without evidence that
substances in order to submit a socioeconomic the additional ingredients affected by the

ECHA definition pose a risk of harm to the References
aquatic environment. All websites accessed on Oct. 3, 2018.
We await the next steps of the process 1. eunomia.co.uk/reports-tools/
with keen interest. plastics-in-the-marine-environment/
2. cosmeticseurope.eu/files/3714/7636/5652/Recommenda-
Single-use Plastic tion_on_Solid_Plastic_Particles.pdf

3. cosmeticseurope.eu/news-events/
U.K.: The U.K. government launched a over-97-plastic-microbeads-already-phased-out-cosmetics-
25-year Environment Plan.7 In March 2018, cosmetics-europe-announces
under the Environment Plan, the Chancellor 4. thefactsabout.co.uk/ctpa-responds-to-misleading-
claims-on-plastic-microbeads-in-cosmetic-products/
of the Exchequer issued a Call for Evidence news/99/339/n
on single-use plastics, exploring how changes 5. ec.europa.eu/environment/circular-economy/pdf/plastics-
to the tax system or charges could be used to strategy.pdf
reduce single-use plastics, increase reuse and 6. echa.europa.eu/documents/10162/23852749/120318_call_
improve recycling. for_evidence_information_session_intro_en.pdf/3169513e-
15ed-87e2-f8fb-95176df323c9
Crucial to this is the definition of “single-
7. gov.uk/government/publications/25-year-environment-plan
use plastic” which, we believe, must relate to
8. europa.eu/rapid/press-release_IP-18-3927_en.htm
the way the product is used and must not be
9. europen-packaging.eu/news/
expanded to all plastics in general. news/123-packaging-value-chain-coalition-of-68-industry-
CTPA submitted comments to the request associations-launches-joint-recommendations-ahead-of-
and we await any actions, which the Chancel- negotiations-on-the-single-use-plastics-proposal.html
lor is expected to announce in the Autumn

Budget after time of press.
EU: At a European level, the Commis-
sion proposed a new Directive on Single Use
Plastics.8 If this proposal is approved in its
current form, it will have a number of impacts
on some cosmetic products: labeling require-
ments, extended producer responsibility and
awareness-raising measures.
The European Organization for Packaging
and the Environment, EUROPEN, issued a set
of joint recommendations from across several
industries and has submitted these to the EU
negotiation process.9
Conclusions
It is widely acknowledged that cosmetic
and personal care products account for
a tiny fraction of the problem of aquatic
plastic pollution.
The cosmetics industry acted where it
felt that action could be a positive step; it is
in a unique and privileged position to utilize
its global network of experts in this way.
However, the disposal of plastic is a major
global problem that affects all industries, and
the appropriate disposal of plastic ultimately
depends on individual actions. Through
research and activities in this area, the
cosmetics industry is working to be a part of
the wider solution. For a tangible benefit to
the marine environment, action is required by
predominant contributors.

Regulatory | C&T ®
KEY POINTS
• The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR)
Expert Panel has reviewed the safety of
parabens several times, most recently in
September 2018.
• Here, Bart Heldreth, Ph.D., executive director

of the CIR, shares the panel's findings and
provides context for them.
CIR Conclusion
Parabens Are Safe

T
Editor’s note: Cosmetics & Toiletries is excited to welcome New
Columnist Bart Heldreth, Ph.D., executive director of the Cosmetic
Ingredient Review (CIR), to its regular lineup. His expertise will raise
the bar on ingredient insight; not only by sharing official CIR Expert
Panel conclusions, but by also providing context for those rulings.
Bart Heldreth, Ph.D. This month, he shares the panel’s (unsurprising) determination that
parabens are safe in cosmetics.
Cosmetic Ingredient Review
Washington, D.C.
he Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) was established in 1976 with
involvement and support from the U.S. Food and Drug Administra-
tion (FDA), the Consumer Federation of America (CFA), and industry.
Over the last four decades, the CIR Expert Panel has established a
strong record of protecting public health by thoroughly reviewing
and assessing the safety of ingredients used in cosmetics.

CT1811_12_Regulatory_Haldreth_fcx.indd 18 11/2/18 3:35 PM

The CIR’s Expert Panel is comprised
The overwhelming
of world-renowned dermatologists, toxi-
cologists, chemists, consumer protection
consensus among
advocates and public health experts who
have been publicly nominated by consumer,
credible experts is that
scientific and medical groups, government
agencies and industry. The FDA, CFA and
the available safety
an industry liaison participate as non-voting data for parabens fails
members at Expert Panel deliberations.
Scientific deliberations of the Expert to demonstrate risks
Panel are conducted during public meetings
and the results are published in the Interna- relevant to cosmetic
tional Journal of Toxicology, a technical and
scientific peer-reviewed journal. Anonymous concentrations.
peer-reviewed evaluations of all CIR final
reports are key to safeguarding scientific
integrity. The CIR and its review process are
independent. Furthermore, each member of Product categories that use parabens are some
the Expert Panel is required to meet the same of the fastest shifting to paraben-free. Over the
conflict-of-interest standards as those of FDA last two years, facial cosmetics have gone from
advisory committee members, and all Expert 43% paraben-free to 54%.
Panel members have their own careers, sepa-
rate and distinct from the cosmetics industry.1
Based on these credentials, following are Source: Nielsen (2017 data)
the results of the most recent panel review
on parabens.
Parabens Revisited Want More?

Check out page DE10 of the November/December
The Expert Panel has reviewed the safety digital edition to read the rest of 'Parabens Are Safe.'
of parabens several times,2-4 most recently in
September 2018. From the latest results, the
panel issued a tentative
amended report with
the conclusion that the Table 1. Ingredients Deemed Safe in Cosmetics
20 ingredients shown Under Present Practices of Use
in Table 1 are safe in
cosmetics under the pres-
Butylparaben Potassium Propylparaben*
ent practices of use and
concentrations described Calcium Paraben* Propylparaben
in the safety assessment. Ethylparaben Sodium Butylparaben
The overwhelming Isobutylparaben Sodium Ethylparaben
consensus among cred-
Isopropylparaben Sodium Isobutylparaben
ible safety assessment
scientists, globally, is that Methylparaben Sodium Isopropylparaben*
the available data fails to Potassium Butylparaben* Sodium Methylparaben
demonstrate risks relevant Potassium Ethylparaben* Sodium Paraben*
to cosmetic safety in the
Potassium Methylparaben* Sodium Propylparaben
context of concentration
of use. The Expert Panel’s Potassium Paraben* 4-Hydroxybenzoic Acid*
independent and tenta- *Not reported to be in current use. Were the ingredient in this group not in current use to
tive assessment affirms be used in the future, the expectation is that it would be used in product categories and at
this consensus. concentrations comparable to others in this group.
Continued on Page DE10
CT1811_12_Regulatory_Haldreth_fcx.indd 19 11/2/18 3:35 PM

Research | C&T ®
KEY POINTS
• Cetyl alcohol can provide emulsifying,
thickening and conditioning benefits.
• This versatility, thanks to its structure
and properties, described here, lends
itself to a wide range of applications,
including shampoos, sunscreens
and lipsticks.
Cetyl Alcohol
A Multifunctional Addition to Formulators’ Toolboxes
Prashant Bahadur, Ph.D.

Saroja Narasimhan, Ph.D.
Johnson & Johnson
Skillman, NJ USA
20 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
L ong chain aliphatic alcohols are widely used
in the personal care industry. Cetyl alcohol, a
straight chain fatty alcohol with 16 carbons,
is considered one of the most versatile, and is
currently used in cosmetics, select shampoos,
and as a raw material for the manufacture of
surfactants. Also referred to as C16 fatty alcohol, palmityl alcohol
and 1-hexadecanol, this ingredient is typically used as a nongelling
thickener, co-emulsifier and an emollient.1

all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. Vol. 133, No. 10 | November/December 2018
CT1811_12_Research_JJ_fcx.indd 20 11/2/18 3:51 PM

Cetyl alcohol is considered one of the most
versatile ingredients currently used in
cosmetics and select shampoos.
Production and Manufacture tive. However, judicious decisions on changes

in land use and effluent and solid waste treat-
Cetyl alcohol was historically produced by
ments have been identified as key to making
hydrolyzing the wax component of sperm whale
palm oil-derived cetyl alcohol environmentally
head oil (spermaceti).1 Pure 1-hexadecanol does
sustainable. Sourcing for cetyl alcohol has
not have the same emulsifying and thickening
gradually shifted to plant-based production and
abilities as the hydrolyzed wax component,
now represents the majority of cetyl alcohol
which is an impure compound consisting
used in personal care products.
mainly of 1-hexadecanol and 1-octadecanol.1-3
Palm oil- or palm kernel oil-derived cetyl
alcohol can be produced either by split-
ting fatty acid—i.e., direct hydrogenation of
Cetyl Alcohol Properties
fatty acids obtained by splitting triglycerides Cetyl alcohol (CAS no. 36653-82-4) is a
from crude vegetable oil, or transesterifica- vegetable-derived, white and waxy solid in
tion—hydrogenation of methyl esters obtained flake/pellets/powder form, insoluble in water
by transesterification of crude or refined and moderately soluble in alcohol and oils
vegetable oil.4 (see Table 1). Cetyl alcohol is a mild, nontoxic
Petro-derived cetyl alcohol can be produced and nonirritating material with no odor. It is
via the Ziegler process using the hydrogenated stable in the presence of acids or alkali, as well
catalyst triethylaluminium for the alkylation as stable to oxidation.1, 7-11 Due to its nonionic
of ethylene.4 The Ziegler process involves the character—i.e., it has a polar group at one end,
hydrogenation, ethylation, growth reaction, -CH2OH, but this is relatively small compared
oxidation and hydrolysis of ethylene over alu- to the other part of molecule, -C15H31, which is
minum powder in the presence of hydrocarbon nonpolar—it is compatible with other anionic,
solvent. While solvent is recovered, aluminum nonionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants
exits the system as the coproduct alumina and performs as a thickening and suspending
hydrate. Alkanes and oxygen-containing com- agent as well as an emollient in emulsions. It
pounds are formed as byproducts5 and during also acts as an opacifier in shampoo and body
the fractionation of crude alcohol formed, these shampoo formulations due to its low solubility
byproducts could either be separated as waste in water.
or become part of certain blends. This process Cetyl alcohol also is widely used in skin
produces even-numbered alcohols: creams and lotions due to its mildness and com-
patibility with other surfactants. It is typically
Al(C2H5)3+21 C2H4→Al(C16H33)3
Al(C16H33)3+3⁄2 O2+3⁄2 H2O→3 HOC16H33+1⁄2 Al2O3
Figure 1 depicts the production pathways of

Hair care products focused on delivering
both palm oil- and petro-derived fatty alcohols. intense moisture and hydration accounted
Comparatively, studies of the potential for more than 55 of the top 600 hair care
environmental impact for palm oil-derived treatments, as of summer 2018.
and petro-derived cetyl alcohol show that the
petro option has lower average greenhouse gas
Source: Kline
emissions compared with the palm oil deriva-

Cetyl Alcohol
used in combination
with other fatty
alcohols and ionic or
nonionic surfactants
as an emulsifier for
cosmetic products.
See Table 2 for
other attributes of
the ingredient.
Thickening
Mechanism
Cetyl alcohol
imparts stability and
superior consistency
to o/w emulsions. As
such, much research
has focused on the
mechanism behind
its liquid crystal
Figure 1. Fatty alcohol synthesis pathways6 formation2-4, 12-14 and
interactions with
primary emulsi-
fiers resulting in an
increase in interfacial film viscosity.15
In most cases, such formulations
consist of a lamellar gel network (see
Figure 2), also referred to as a lamel-
lar liquid crystal, which includes:
1. The lamellar gel phase,
consisting of bilayers
of surfactant and cetyl
alcohol;
2. An interlamellar
water layer;
3. An oil (dispersed) phase,
stabilized by a monolayer
of surfactant and cetyl
alcohol, and often with
hydrated crystals of cetyl
alcohols; and
4. A bulk water phase.
The overall stability of an
emulsion is dependent
on the stability of the
Figure 2. Schematic of an emulsion prepared with fatty crystalline gel phase and
this is time-dependent.
alcohol and ionic surfactant;15 four phases (shown in Figure 1),
The interconnected nature
include: 1) dispersed oil phase; 2) crystalline gel phase containing of lamellar gel networks
interlamellar fixed water; 3) phase composed of crystalline and rigid bilayers gives
hydrates of fatty alcohol; and 4) bulk water phase. emulsions a highly viscous
shear-thinning rheology.

Studies16-17 also have shown that creating a systems cool to below the transition tempera-
liquid crystal structure in a shampoo formula- ture, when the hydrocarbon chains crystallize.
tion can significantly enhance the deposition of This means the lamellar gel phase is only
silicone conditioning actives onto oxidatively partially formed when the emulsion cools, so the
damaged, color-treated hair. The liquid crystal system is often mobile immediately after prepa-
structure promotes
the deposition of a
hydrophobic polymer/ Table 1. Key Properties of Cetyl Alcohol1, 7-11
surfactant layer on
the hair surface, and
this increase in hydro- Parameters Specification
phobicity changes the Appearance and Odor Odorless, white solid/pellets/flakes
surface energy of the
Average Molecular Weight 250 g/mol
hair to allow for more
effective deposition of Density 0.8 g/cc
the silicones. Acid Value 0.50 max
Cetyl alcohol also Saponification Value 1.0 max
can thicken emulsions
Iodine Value 2.0 max g L/100 g
in the presence of ionic
or nonionic surfactants. Hydroxyl Value 220-235 mg KOH/g
With ionic surfactants, Moisture 0.3% max
this swelling is due to Melting Point 45-51°C
the charged surfactant Chain distribution
inserting into the α
C14 maximum 3%
crystals of cetyl alcohol.
The charge created at the C16 minimum 95.0%
surface of the bilayers C18 maximum 5%
significantly increases Hydrocarbons maximum 1%
the forces of repulsion
between them.2
With nonionic
surfactants, the swelling
of the α crystals of cetyl Table 2. Critical Attributes and Performance Impact
alcohol is due to the
hydration of the poly-
oxyethylene chains of Critical Attribute Performance Impact
the surfactant, which are
A mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols is
oriented and extended required to increase viscosity and stabilize the
into the interlamellar Carbon Chain
emulsion, whereas cetyl or stearyl alcohol
water layers.2 Creams Distribution
alone results in a low-viscosity emulsion and
containing cetyl alcohol phase separation of the fatty alcohol crystals.1
and nonionic surfactants With cooling, a liquid crystalline phase forms at
often show considerable the oil-water interface of the emulsion droplets
structural changes dur- after homogenization;12 this liquid crystal
ing storage, sometimes Emulsion structure gives solid-like rheological properties,
changing from a milky Manufacturing leading to good aesthetics and spreadability.
Process The liquid crystal emulsion also shows good
liquid to a semisolid.
moisturizing properties, possibly due to the
These changes occur entrapment of water molecules in the liquid
because the polyoxyeth- crystal structure.12
ylene (POE) chains are
Cationic polymers cause the swollen lamellar gel
not very soluble in water Presence of
network phase to transform into nonswollen
at high temperatures, but Cationic Polymers
crystals of cetyl alcohol.13
become more soluble as

Cetyl Alcohol
Because of its
various capabilities,
cetyl alcohol is
used in many
cosmetic products
such as lotions,
creams, anti-aging
treatments, shampoo
and conditioner,
sunscreens,
cleansers
and lipsticks.
ration. Upon storage, the increased solubility of In skin care, cetyl alcohol acts as an emol-
the POE groups allows additional lamellar gel lient and imparts a velvety feel, reducing the
phase to form, although this occurs very slowly heavy feel of other oils. Due to its crystalline
due to the crystalline nature of the chains. nature, cetyl alcohol acts as a structural agent
and confers bodying properties to emulsions,
Applications improving viscosity. In doing so, they enhance
Because of its various capabilities, cetyl the aesthetics and application properties of
alcohol is used in many cosmetic products such the emulsion.
as lotions, creams, shampoo and conditioner,
anti-aging treatments, sunscreens, cleansers Conclusion
and lipsticks. Functionally, cetyl alcohol is Cetyl alcohol provides a lamellar structure to
an excellent thickening agent and lubricity most personal care products, giving a superior
enhancer.18-20, 7-10 It provides hair with improved consistency and added stability to emulsions.
wet combing and gives it a smooth feel upon Understanding the thickening mechanism of
drying. When used in a conditioner, cetyl alco- cetyl alcohol and its interactions with primary
hol deposits on the surface of the hair’s cuticle, emulsifiers is crucial to imparting the desired
where its fatty character enables the replenish- aesthetics and stability. The ingredient also
ing of the lipid content of hair and thus restores imparts slip to skin care formulations due to
hair to a more hydrophobic state. This dewet- its absorption and retention in the epidermis,
ting action on the hair’s surface is what makes where it lubricates the skin.
easy wet combing and detangling possible.

All in all, used as an emulsifier, thickener and a
conditioning agent, cetyl alcohol is one of the most
versatile, nonirritating skin care ingredients available
today for lotions, creams, shampoos and conditioners.
References
1. E Matijevi´c, Physical chemistry of cetyl alcohol: Occurrence and func-
tion of liquid crystals in o/w creams, in Surface and Colloid Science,
Springer US (2001)
2. GM Eccleston, Functions of mixed emulsifiers and emulsifying waxes
in dermatological lotions and creams, Colloids and Surfaces, A:
Physicochemical and Engineering Aspects 123-124 169-182 (1997)
3. BW Barry and GM Saunders, Kinetics of structure build-up in self
bodied emulsions stabilized by mixed emulsifiers, J Colloid and
Interface Sci 41(2) 331-342 (1972)
4. R Zah and R Hischier, Life cycle inventories of detergents, in Ecoinvent
Report No. 12, Swiss Centre for Life Cycle Inventories, Dübendorf, CH
(2007)
5. K Noweck and W Grafahrend, Fatty alcohols, in Ullmann’s Encyclo-
pedia of Industrial Chemistry, Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH, Weinheim,
Germany (2012)
6. J Shah et al, Comparison of oleo- vs petro-sourcing of fatty alcohols
via cradle-to-gate life cycle assessment, J Surfactants and Detergents
19(6) 1333-1351 (2016)
7. Crodacol range, Croda Product Data Sheet (Dec 13, 2013) DS- 81R-3
8. sds.evonik.com/msds-list/searchresult/personal-care/E/99056461/
MSDS-US/sds.pdf (Accessed on Oct 30, 2018)
9. vvfllc.com/uploaded/files/Products/Fatty%20Alcohols/Product%20
Data%20Sheets/Vegarol%201698%20Rev%2002%20(Dec%202013).
pdf (Accessed on Oct 30, 2018)
10. https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/1-
Hexadecanol#section=Related-Substances (Accessed Nov 1, 2018)
11. G Hasenhuett, Fats and fatty oils, in Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia
of Chemical Technology, John Wiley and Sons, Hoboken, NJ
USA (2006)
12. W Zhang and L Liu, Study on the formation and properties of liquid
crystal emulsion in cosmetic, J Cosmetics, Derm Sci and Applications
3 139-144 (2013)
13. HM Ribeiro, JA Morais and GM Eccleston, Structure and rheology
of semisolid o/w creams containing cetyl alcohol/nonionic surfac-
tant mixed emulsifier and different polymers, Intl J Cos Sci 26(2)
47-59 (2004)
14. Y Liu and S Friberg, Role of liquid crystal in the emulsification of a gel
emulsion with high internal phase fraction, J Coll and Interface Sci
340(2) 261-268 (2009)
15. GM Eccleston, Multiple phase oil in water emulsion, J Soc Cos Chem
41 1-22 (1990)
16. MA Brown et al, Liquid crystal colloidal structures for increased
silicone deposition efficiency on color-treated hair, Intl J Cos Sci 32
193-203 (2010)
17. WO Pat 2006044209A2, Hair conditioning composition comprising
tight lamellar gel matrix, J-Z Yang and K Takata, assigned to The
Procter & Gamble Company (April 27, 2006)
18. RA Peters, Alcohols, higher aliphatic, survey and natural alcohols
manufacture, in Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology,
John Wiley and Sons, Hoboken, NJ USA (2000)
19. Final report on the safety assessment of cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alco-
hol, isostearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, J Amer
College of Tox 7(3) 359-413 (1988)
20. CJ Kenneally, Alcohols, higher aliphatic, survey and natural alcohols
manufacture, in Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology,
John Wiley and Sons, Hoboken, NJ USA (2001)

Testing | C&T ®
KEY POINTS
• Described here is a novel method to
investigate the soft-focus effects of
powders. It utilizes a handheld, multi-angle
spectrophotometer to capture reflectance
spectra at various observation angles.
• Results showed variances in results taken

in the trans or “behind the gloss” plane,
indicating which powders provide the best
light-scattering capabilities.
Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2018 Allured Business Media.
CT1811_12_Testing_Benderly_fcx.indd 26 11/5/18 3:51 PM

'BEHIND THE
GLOSS' Multiple Angles Reveal
New Soft-focus Insights
T
Daphne Benderly, Ph.D.
Presperse, Somerset, NJ USA
here is great interest from consumers for cosmetic products that

have substantiated soft-focus claims; i.e., those that demonstrably
blur the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. This should be
achieved without the formulation giving too much coverage, which
can impart an unnatural appearance. One means to achieve this
effect is via the use of an appropriate soft-focus powder.
What determines the appropriate powder? The present paper seeks to answer to
this question using a new method to screen powders. The goal is to provide formula-
tors with an additional tool to better ensure target performance.

'Behind the Gloss'
Comparing reflectance spectra at various

angles reveals whether observation angles
matter, which can be correlated to
reflection and/or scattering abilities.
The Perfect Powder A handheld, multi-angle spectrophotometer

is commonly used in the color evaluation of
Guidelines for effective soft-focus powders
films or surfaces with effect pigments whereby
were previously summarized by Emmert1 and
the color changes upon observation angle.
include: minimal light absorption; high total—
Analytically, this can be seen as changes in the
and mostly diffuse—transmission; minimal
shape of the measured reflectance spectrum
specular reflection; and high scattered reflec-
with observation angle. This approach has not
tion. Other parameters include particle size and
yet been used to evaluate the soft-focus perfor-
refractive index.
mance of a cosmetic sample, since the color of a
Ideally, a new powder is screened for its
film with a soft-focus powder is not expected to
performance potential prior to incorporation
change with differing observation angles.
in a formula and consumer panel testing. If
several powder candidates have been identified,
other considerations such as oil absorption and
Reflection Angles
cost are considered as well. How does it work? Consider a perfectly
glossy, mirror-like surface. It would exhibit high
Repurposed Approach reflectance, i.e., high reflected light intensity,
mainly at angles equivalent or close to the
Several methods have been described in the
specular or “mirror” angle (see Figure 1). This
literature to evaluate powders for soft-focus
reflectance intensity would thus be lower at
potential.2-8 These vary in their optical measure-
other observation angles. Conceptually, then,
ments and instrumentation, and each offers
the comparison of the intensity of the reflec-
advantages and disadvantages. A preferred
tance spectra at different measurement angles
method would be to use typical powder loading
would differ between this specular angle and
levels in a carrier and to perform evaluations
other angles.
using lab scale/benchtop equipment. The
On the other hand, a nonglossy surface with
method proposed here instead uses realistic
good soft-focus characteristics would give less
powder levels and a handheld, multi-angle
specular reflection and more scattered reflection;
spectrophotometer to measure reflectance
two of Emmert’s criteria for soft-focus potential.
spectra at various angles relative to the fixed
In this case, the intensity of the reflectance
illuminant. Further, the test powder is dispersed
spectrum should therefore be similar at all
in a clear film that is prepared by drawdown on
the different measurement angles so that the
a synthetic leather substrate.
curves obtained from different angles overlap.
As such, a comparison of the reflectance spectra
at various angles should indicate whether the
observation angle has a strong effect, which can
The worldwide color cosmetics market be correlated to a greater or lesser amount of
was valued at $5.88 billion in 2017 and is specular reflection.
projected to reach $9.56 billion by 2023, In this study, the measurement angle
registering a CAGR of 7.4% during this period. found to give a good indication of soft-focus
performance was the “behind-the-gloss,” or
trans, angle. This angle is opposite from the
Source: Allied Market Research specular angle, compared with the illuminant
(see Figure 1). For effect pigments, this angle
has been shown to be an important part of color

characterization; in fact, it is incorporated the soft-focus effects of the applied film can
into ASTM standards.9 Note that cis and trans more easily be visualized. For the following
measurement angles yield different results. measurements, the powder concentration used
Several commercial instruments can mea- was 10%, which is close to a typical use level in
sure reflectance at a “behind the gloss” angle; formulations; similar results also were observed
the instrument used here is a portable spectro- with a 5% loading.
photometera. The measurement angles relative Powder materials: Four cosmetic grade
to the illuminant and the angle designation powders were used in this study: jet-milled
nomenclature used are shown in Figure 1. talcb, sericite micac, calcium aluminum
borosilicate glass beadsd and a macroporous
Materials and Methods hydrophobic acrylates crosspolymere. Some
Substrate selection: In this work, draw- physical characteristics are given in Table 1.
downs were prepared on an artificial leather
substrate rather than glass plates or transparen- b
Talc Microace P-2 (INCI: Talc), Nippon/Presperse
cies, which commonly are used. This substrate
c
Sericite PHN (INCI: Mica), Horie Kako/Presperse
d
Luxsil Cosmetic Microspheres (INCI: Calcium Aluminum
is more similar to skin and since it is textured, Borosilicate), Potters/Presperse
e
Ganzpearl GMP-0820 (INCI: Acrylates Crosspolymer),
a
MA-98 spectrophotometer, X-Rite Aica/Presperse
Figure 1. Reflectance measurement angles
Table 1. Powders Evaluated
Average particle Oil absorption

Trade name/supplier INCI Morphology
size (microns) (mg/100 g powder)
Microace P-2/Nippon Talc 7 55 Platelet
Sericite PHN/
Mica 9 45 Platelet
Horie Kako
Luxsil Cosmetic Calcium
Microspheres/ Aluminum 12 40 Spherical
Potters Borosilicate
Ganzpearl Acrylates
8 105 Spherical
GMP-0820/AICA Crosspolymer

'Behind the Gloss'
Two of these powders, talc and sericite,

were used for comparison as they often are
used as bulking agents in cosmetic powder
formulations but are known to not improve
soft-focus performance. The other two pow-
ders, calcium aluminum borosilicate glass
and acrylates crosspolymer, have proven
performance in both soft-focus10 and SPF-
boosting capabilities.11 This SPF-boosting
effect would be expected, since soft-focus
performance acts via a similar mechanism
of diffuse reflectance.
In addition to the instrumental analyses
described, visual observations were used to
confirm whether the incorporation of these
powders in a cosmetic formulation could
blur fine lines and wrinkles.
Carrier and substrates: The carrier
used in this work was a commercially
available, water-based finish that gives a
high-gloss, highly transparent filmf. This
transparency is important because the
goal is to choose a powder that causes
blurring but does not impart coverage to
skin. Further, if the carrier were opaque, it
would be difficult to discern whether the
powder is covering rather than blurring.
Similarly, if the film is matte, it would be
difficult to evaluate the contribution of
the powder.
This carrier was chosen rather than nail
lacquer, which has been used in many of
the previously studies cited in the literature.
The water-based carrier additionally avoids
the flammability and odor hazards associ-
ated with lacquer. For some evaluations,
a blend of hydrocarbons was used as the
carrier, for comparison purposes.
Since the refractive index of the water-
based film was not available from the
manufacturer, it was measured using a
refractometerg and found to be between
1.506 and 1.516; similar to the refractive
indices of the powders used in this work.
The drawdown substrates used were dif-
ferent shades of faux leatherh. This material
is a urethane-based thermoplastic elasto-
mer with polyester and cotton, and is lightly
textured with a matte finish. The substrate
Figure 2. Reflectance spectra at several measurement was chosen since its gloss and texture are
angles of light brown (a), dark brown (b) and red (c) f
Polycrylic brand, Minwax
untreated artificial leather g
Model 1310499 refractometer, Reichert Abbe
h
Enviroleather, LDI Corp.

The goal is to choose a powder
that causes blurring but does not
impart coverage to the skin.
closer to that of human skin, compared with parison. The hydrocarbon blend consisted of
substrates used in other soft-focus literature 18% polyisobutene and 82% isododecane; the
studies, such as rigid glass plates, high-gloss refractive index of the blend was 1.434; as such,
drawdown cards or transparencies. The shades the films were not transparent due to their
used were Camel (941), a lighter brown; Mojave differing refractive indices. Reflectance spectra
(954), a darker brown; and Tuscon (933), a red. were measured using the aforementioned
Multiple shades were examined to evaluate the spectrophotometera equipped with softwarej.
applicability of the proposed characterization Four readings were taken for each sample, and
method on different substrate colors. the average result was used.
Test Protocol Results: Untreated

Dispersions of 10% powder in the com- Substrates
mercial carrierf were prepared using a stir bar. The reflectance spectra for the three differ-
Drawdowns were prepared using a 10 mm ent colors of faux leather substrate, untreated,
drawdown bar and allowed to dry overnight at different measurement angles, are shown
before measurements were taken. The resulting in Figure 2. As expected, the spectra overlap
films were transparent. fairly well, as no color change was expected
Additional dispersions of 15% powder were
prepared in a hydrocarbon blend, for com- j
X-ColorQC software

'Behind the Gloss'
with changes in angle and the surface

is matte. The exception was the 45as-15
angle, also known as the “behind the
gloss” angle. This measurement location
is in the trans position described above;
as noted, this measurement angle has
been identified as useful in the analysis
of coatings with effect pigments.9, 12, 13
Results: Carrier and

Carrier + Powder
After the highly glossy carrier
film without powder was applied, the
reflectance intensity was found to be
greater at angles closer to the specular
angle, as expected (see Figure 3). In the
case of drawdown films with powder,
measurements were conducted on all
three substrates with films containing
10% and 5% powders. The observed
results were similar for all substrates
at both loading levels; for simplicity,
only the results of the red substrate
with 10% powder samples are shown.
An overlay of spectra collected at the
45as110 angle is given in Figure 4. At
this measurement angle, the reflectance
spectra overlapped well for all the
samples evaluated. Thus, the effect of
powder addition on the intensity of
light reflection was similar for the four
powders evaluated, and the results do
not distinguish between a “good” or a
“poor” soft-focus powder.
In comparison, an overlay of the
reflectance spectra at the 45as-15 angle
showed differentiation between the pow-
ders, indicating different performance
(see Figure 5). Since each powder can
slightly change the film’s color and thus
reflectance intensity, the powders are
better compared by taking the ratio of
the reflectance at 45as-15 and 45as110
angles, as shown graphically in Figure 6.
This approach of self-referencing within
a sample to eliminate the effect of filler
on measured optical property values has
previously been proposed2 for use with
L* values. For all substrates tested and
Figure 3. Reflectance spectra at several measurement both powder loading levels, this reflec-
angles of water-based carrier film (no powder) on: light tance ratio curve was higher for powders
brown (a), dark brown (b) and red (c) artificial leather known to not impart soft-focus effects,
such as talc or mica. The reflectance

ratio curve becomes lower
as the powder’s soft-focus
performance improves.
The maximum point of the
reflectance ratio curve can
be called the blurring index,
BI, and used to compare the
different powders. The values
for BI, for the different color
substrates evaluated in this
study, are given in Table 2.
Although the value depends
on the color of the substrate,
the same ranking is given for
the four powders evaluated,
regardless of substrate. To
further evaluate the robust-
ness of this method, films of
different thicknesses were Figure 4. Reflectance spectra at 45as110 angle, for
evaluated, and the additional drawdowns of water-based carrier with 10% of different
rankings were obtained powders, on red substrate
(results not shown).

'Behind the Gloss'
The refractive index of a powder also is test method with a carrier of a different refrac-
known to affect its transparency in a formula- tive index. As such, these same four powders
tion. Since the refractive index of cosmetic were evaluated when dispersed in a blend of
carriers varies, it is of interest to evaluate this hydrocarbons rather than the aqueous carrier,
and similar rankings were
obtained (results not shown).
Summary
A new evaluation method
is described here for the
evaluation of powders for
their soft-focus potential. Four
powders are compared; two
negative controls, known to
not impart soft-focus benefits,
and two recognized to be
good soft-focus powders. In
this method, drawdowns were
prepared on synthetic leather
substrates and the optical
performance was character-
ized using a multi-angle
spectrophotometer.
The powder performance,
Figure 5. Reflectance spectra at 45as-15 angle, for when evaluated in drawdowns
drawdowns of water-based carrier with 10% of different
in the same carrier on the
powders, on red substrate same color substrate, could be
ranked using a blurring index,

BI. This ratio is defined
as the intensity of the
spectrum measured
at the 45as-15 angle,
relative to the 45as110
angle. While the value
of the BI changes
with the color of the
substrate, the rank-
ing was unchanged
for different color
substrates, and for
carriers of different
refractive indices.
Acknowledgments: The author

would like to acknowledge
David Albrecht, of DCD
Technologies; X-Rite for the
opportunity to evaluate use of Figure 6. Ratio of reflectance spectra at 45as-15 angle and
the MA-98 instrument for the
development of this soft-focus
45s110 angles, for drawdowns of water-based carrier with 10%
method; and Tim Mouwe of different powders, on red substrate
(X-Rite) for useful discussions.
In addition, Marie Yednak-
Carpenter is to be acknowledged
for her work on the hydrocarbon
drawdowns used in this work.
Table 2. Blurring Index, BI, in water-based carrier film with 10%
powder loading
References
1. R Emmert, Quantifica-
tion of the soft-focus
effect, Cosm & Toil 111(7) BI, red BI, light brown BI, dark brown
INCI
57–61 (1996) substrate substrate substrate
2. M Becker, C Schmidt,
V Hochstein and X
Mica (Sericite) 27.8 4.1 19.2
Petsitis, Measuring and Talc 20.3 4.0 17.4
pre-selecting functional
filler pigments, Cosm & Calcium Aluminum
13.5 3.2 11.4
Toil 127(5) 390-396 (2012) Borosilicate
3. LM Cukrov, JS Robinson, Acrylates Crosspolymer 7.0 2.5 6.7
B Innes and PG
McCormick, Measuring
soft-focus properties of
cosmetic filler particles,
Happi (Aug 2003)
8. http://koboproductsinc.com/Downloads/KoboBlur-Com-
4. J Leist, R Rojas-Wahl and M Sinha, Soft focus—A tool plexes-for-SoftFocus-Effect.pdf (Accessed Oct 31, 2018)
for advanced skin care formulation, SÖFW Journal 139(3)
1-10 (2013) 9. astm.org/Standards/E2194.htm (Accessed Oct 15, 2018)
5. W Benjamin Rogers, M Corbett, S Magkiriadou, P Guarillof 10. US Pat Application 62/480,884, Method of determin-
and VN Manoharan, Breaking trade-offs between trans- ing optimal powder and formulations for wrinkle blurring
lucency and diffusion in particle-doped films, Opt Mater compositions, Z Szabados, D Benderly, M Yednak-
Express 4(12) 2621-2631 (2014) Carpenter and K Kannheiser, assigned to Presperse Corp
(Apr 3, 2017)
6. Momentive.com/products/literature/Optical-Effects-of-
Particles/ (Accessed May 7, 2018) 11. SPF boosting powders, FL SCC Poster Session (2013
Sunscreen Symposium)
7. https://consumer.dow.com/en-us/document-viewer.html?
ramdomVar=8266884836033087099&docPath=/content/ 12. WR Cramer, Reflections on the right angle, Euro Coatings J
dam/dcc/documents/en-us/catalog-selguide/27/27- 4 32-37 (2012)
15/27-1560-01-dowsil-specialty-silicones-for-soft-focus.pdf 13. E Kirchner and W Cramer, Making sense of measurement
(Accessed Oct 31, 2018) geometries for multi-angle spectrophotometers, Col Res
Appl 37 186-198 (2012)

Testing | C&T ®
KEY POINTS
• Quantitive claims regarding hair care can be
questioned if the results and approaches do
not equate to real life occurrences.
• This article highlights ongoing research

efforts that aim to improve our
understanding of visual evaluations of hair.
Testing Tactics in Hair
Quantifying Visual
Aspects of Hair
Trefor Evans, Ph.D.
TRI-Princeton
Princeton, New Jersey
36 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
A n old adage suggests that “a picture is worth a
thousand words.” In an analogy, it is very easy to
recognize beautiful hair when we see it; but perhaps
not so easy to describe the qualities that make it so.
The hair measurement scientist is further tasked
with translating this concept into numbers.
Past articles in this column have discussed means of performing this under-
taking: We have considered sensorial properties, such as surface friction and

all or part of this article is strictly prohibited.
Vol. 133, No. 10 | November/December 2018
CT1811_12_Testing_Evans_fcx.indd 36 11/2/18 4:41 PM

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Many hair care properties possess a means

of technical evaluation that equate to
expectations relating to consumer language.
However, the same is not true for most
evaluations of visual properties.
associated manageability issues;1 deliberated By means of illustration, even something

on various aspects of hair health;2-4 covered as seemingly straightforward as measuring
measurement of hair’s physical properties;5, 6 hair color is fraught with complexity. Spec-
and the detrimental effects of certain habits, trophotometers are commonly used for such
practices and insults.7, 8 Unquestionably, these quantification but at the same time, color has
are all contributors but at the same time, it is dependence on the nature of the light source
likely that visual perception is probably most and its angle of incidence. Subtle differences in
important of all. Unfortunately, quantifying color will be present between neighboring fibers,
the visual properties of hair is an especially as well as down the length of a given fiber. To
taxing proposition. this end, a permanent dye treatment that pro-
As scientists, we are able to conceive of duces very uniform coloring of hair is thought
highly controlled, precise evaluation methods to unnatural due to an absence of contrast.
probe our technical interpretations of consumer This article describes how similar complexi-
terms. To this end, previous articles in this series ties plague many such visual evaluations of
have described how the measurement of light hair and therefore produce some of the most
reflecting off a hair surface is commonly used contentious properties in our industry. Ongo-
as a measure of “shine”;9 or how image analysis ing research efforts are highlighted that aim to
approaches are often used to quantify hair improve our understanding.
“volume.”10 These approaches undoubtedly hold
up in terms of scientific rigor but at the same The Complexity of the
time, relationships back to the consumer terms Problem
are tenuous.
To again paraphrase the words of the
The reason for this likely is twofold. First, as
illustrious Lord Kelvin (1824-1907): “When you
per a reoccurring theme in these articles, con-
cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge
sumer language can often be rather nebulous,
is of a meager and unsatisfactory nature.”
and may not equate to scientific understanding.
Many of the consumer properties discussed in
But second, from a technical perspective, these
this series (e.g., conditioning, strength, etc.)
simple consumer terms represent extremely
possess a means of technical evaluation that
complex phenomena.
equate reasonably well to expectations relating
to consumer language—and have therefore
achieved a high level of acceptance within our
industry. However, the same is not true for most
Prestige hair care makes up the smallest piece evaluations of visual properties.
of the total U.S. beauty market, but is growing This situation does not arise from any lack
at 2.5x the rate of the overall prestige market. of effort. For example, many equations have
been proposed in the scientific literature in an
attempt to generate a number that describes
hair shine.9 These all include a ratio involv-
Source: The NPD Group ing the proportions of specular and diffusely
reflected light that bounces off hair’s surface.
Each possesses technical merit but very differ-

ent magnitude benefits (or indeed detriments) nonetheless seen in many forms. Aligned hair
arise when treating reflection data via these is likely to appear shinier; grooming is easier;
different equations. Indeed, the rankings of smoothness may be enhanced; frizz is mini-
samples may be altered as a result of the equa- mized; and hair seemingly moves more freely.
tion selected. Accordingly, and unsatisfactorily, Again, this prompts a desire for quantification.
current predilections for a specific equation One approach involves a different adaptation of
most often involve the one that yields optimal polarization imaging.
results for the sample being tested. The polarization of an incident light source
A drawback of the most commonly used can be altered by the angle at which it reflects
approach for measuring shine—the so-called off of a surface. Therefore, examining the
polarized light method9—is the artificial align- nature of this alteration yields information on
ment of hair. That is, test samples are anchored the morphology of the reflecting substrate.13
over a drumlike tress holder during evalua- For visualization purposes, these shifts in
tion. Yet, fiber alignment is seemingly a major polarization can then be assigned a color.
contributor to this property, with light reflecting Figure 1 shows images of hair tresses that
more-cleanly from flat, homogeneous surfaces. were generated using a commercial instru-
As such, this important consideration is factored ment that operates by this principle. In this
out of the current evaluation. specific example, rather frizzy hair was heat-
Advancement in this area necessitates adapt- straightened with a flat iron and then allowed to
ing the principles of this approach to freely progressively revert to its natural confirmation
aligned hair tresses; or better still, real heads. via storage at elevated humidity. This produced
Such efforts are ongoing and this work has been a spectrum of aligned states, which allowed for
presented at recent hair conferences in both comparing visual perception to quantification
Germany11 and the United States.12 values yielded by the instrument.
Hair Alignment Flyaway

Hair alignment is a much-overlooked visual Clearly, an array of hair fibers can be
consideration. While not necessarily a prop- described by a variety of properties. Image
erty that consumers mention, its influence is analysis methods can be employed to describe
Figure 1. Numerical values for hair alignment from a polarized light approach

Figure 2. Identification and quantification of frizzy flyaway fibers
Figure 3. Different means for analyzing hair during motion

Experiments that best simulate real-life
occurrences are more desirable when
attempting to communicate the magnitude
of a consumer benefit.
the size and shape of the hair via pixel counts

from digital images. By this means, technical
Hair Motion
measures of hair volume can be obtained; In addition to the static properties of hair,
although, again, it is a stretch to equate this its motion appears as another key contribu-
scientific parameter to the complex consumer tor to the perception of beauty. This topic has
term.10 In any such analysis, it can be tricky to been rather sparely studied,15 but is an active
define the hair edge since outermost strands area of the present author’s ongoing research.
might have wispy flyaway properties that do not Experiments are being performed on a modi-
equate to the tress bulk. Such fibers are undesir- fied version of the equipment described above
able and, in sufficient quantity, can lead to a for evaluating hair shape and flyaway. In the
perception of frizz. modified instrument, an oscillating side-to-side
These flyaway fibers can be better visualized motion is induced in hair tresses, while a high-
by back illumination of the hair where they resolution video camera records the outcome.
become haloed against the contrast provided Comparable analyses can then be performed on
by the bulk, as seen in Figure 2.14 Therefore, a a frame-by-frame basis.
degree of flyaway can be evaluated from ratios Figure 3 shows illustrative images acquired
of pixel counts for the wisps and bulk. during a typical experiment. The shape of the

hair and the extent

of its motion can be
tracked and measured
under controlled and
specific test conditions.
The nature of this
motion is highly fre-
quency-dependent and,
accordingly, experi-
ments across a range of
values are believed most
insightful. Figure 4
shows results for the
amplitude of hair
motion as a function
of applied frequency
for tresses treated with
silicone oil, relative to
clean hair. Initially, the
application of higher
frequency leads to
higher amplitudes of
Figure 4. Amplitude versus frequency curves to describe the motion; although this
relationship ultimately
nature of hair motion
peaks and reverses.
These curves are damp-
ened by the silicone
treatment—that is,
their height is lessened,
while the maximum
amplitude is shifted to
higher frequency.
Visually, the silicone-
treated hair moves in
a notably diminished
manner. Therefore, it
is theorized that one
component of improved
motion involves the
attainment of higher
amplitudes—possibly
also under the action of
lower frequency.
A natural motion
also seemingly neces-
sitates some degree
of hair shape change
(see Figure 3). During
an oscillatory path of
motion, the tress and
its fibers experience dif-
Figure 5. Change in volume of a hair tress during oscillatory
ferences in momentum.
motion and as a function of frequency Accordingly, both the
shape and the volume

of the hair change during this process—and Considerable effort has been expended on
again, the magnitude of these occurrences is attempts to quantify visual properties of hair,
highly frequency-dependent. Figure 5 shows with all still seemingly residing squarely in the
this regular “pulsing” of tress volume and realm of “characterization.” Sound scientific
demonstrates how this effect is exacerbated by approaches allow for the evaluation of numbers
increased frequency. representing hair shine, fiber alignment, spatial
volume, frizziness, etc., yet their relationship to
Summary consumer perception is frequently debated.
As measurement scientists, we must be To this end, it is worth pointing out that
conscious of whether our methods are providing these are highly complex, multifaceted param-
a convenient means of technical characteriza- eters, and to try and describe them with a single
tion, or are attempting to simulate real-life number is perhaps overly ambitious. We have
occurrences. In the grand scheme, both have been conscious of this idea in our ongoing
merit. Characterization experiments tend to efforts on hair motion where we produce a
have higher precision and can help shed light on plethora of numbers. Our approach generates
important contributing variables. For example, values that describe the extent of motion (i.e.,
despite the stated caveats, traditional shine the amplitude); the shape of the hair during this
experiments allow for recognizing the effect of, process; and the degree of homogeneity/flyaway
for example, fiber surface integrity, hair color, during motion along an oscillatory pathway.
surface coatings, etc. Yet, experiments that These properties alter rhythmically under this
best simulate real-life occurrences are more stimulus as the hair experiences momentum
desirable when attempting to communicate the differences. Moreover, each of these parameters
magnitude of a consumer benefit. also possess a sizable dependence on the mag-
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nitude of the oscillating frequency. Accordingly, References

clearer insights are obtained from viewing the 1. TA Evans, Evaluating hair conditioning with instrumental
data in graphical form (such as those shown in combing, Cosm & Toil 126(8) 558-563 (2011)
Figures 4 and 5), rather than by quoting any 2. TA Evans, How damaged is hair? Part 1: Surface damage,
Cosm & Toil 132(4) 38-48 (2017)
specific value.
3. TA Evans, How damaged is hair? Part 2: Internal damage,
It is perhaps tempting to invent equations Cosm & Toil 132(6) 36-45 (2017)
that put a single number on the various visual 4. TA Evans, How damaged is Hair? Part 3: Better defining the
properties we have discussed, but these expres- problem, Cosm & Toil 132(7) 58-67 (2017)
sions have limited relevance without equating 5. TA Evans, Measuring hair strength, part 1: Stress-strain
curves, Cosm & Toil 128(8) 590-594 (2013)
to consumer perception. To this end, perhaps
6. TA Evans, Measuring hair strength, part 2: Fiber breakage,
advancement begins with the reverse scenario,
Cosm & Toil 128(12) 854-859 (2013)
by which we first analyze consumer percep-
7. TA Evans, Beating the damaging effects of heat on hair,
tion and then work backward using weight of Cosm & Toil 130(5) 28-33 (2015)
element statistical modeling to examine the con- 8. TA Evans, The effects of sun on hair, Cosm & Toil 131(7)
tribution of measured variables. This approach 46-52 (2016)
is being used in the previously referenced 9. TA Evans, Equating the measurement of hair shine, Cosm &
Toil 131(1) 28-34 2016)
work that attempts to better evaluate shine on
10. TA Evans, Hair volume and body–A technical disserta-
nonaligned hair.11, 12
tion, Cosm & Toil 133(6) 48-55 (2018)
Quantitative claims (i.e., 5× stronger, 3×
11. M Vedel et al, Evaluation of hair gloss on randomly
shinier) are extremely popular in the marketing oriented fibers using polarization imaging, Proc of DWI
of hair care products. Yet, these communica- HairS’17 Conference, Dresden, Germany (Sep 2017)
tion messages can be questioned if the results 12. S Stofel, R George and S Breugnot, Evaluation of hair gloss
on randomly oriented fibers using polarization imaging, Proc
and approaches do not equate to real life
of 8th Intl Conf on Applied Hair Science, Red Bank, NJ
occurrences and observations. Therefore, and (2018)
in accord with good scientific practices, it is 13. N Lechocinski and S Breugnot, Fiber orientation mea-
imperative that we continuously question and surement using polarized imaging, J Cosmet Sci 62
85-100 (2011)
upgrade our test methods.
14. S Breugnot et al, Volumizing, flyaway/frizz control and
straightening claim substantiation using 3D volume measure-
Acknowledgements: The images in Figure 1 were generated by ment system, NutraCos Cosmetics 7(2) 9-14 (2017)
Ernesta Malinauskyte, senior scientist at TRI, using equipment
15. A Galliano, M Lheur and R Santoprete, Analyzing the move-
loaned to TRI by Bossa Nova Vision (Culver City, Calif.).
ment of a hair swatch using video and image analysis: A
promising technique for exploring the dynamic properties of
Figure 2 was provided by Bossa Nova Vision, and ongoing hair
hair, Intl J Cos Sci 37(1) 56-62 (2015)
motion research is being performed in collaboration with Sebastien
Breugnot of Bossa Nova Vision.

Testing | C&T ®
KEY POINTS
• This study assesses the deposition on

hair of a coacervate comprising silicone,
cationic cellulose polymer and water, and
its impact on hair dyes and permanent
waves, as well as scalp pores.
• Results suggest silicones provide

conditioning benefits to hair without
disrupting these subsequent chemical
treatments, or blocking pores.
Unassuming
Softness Silicone Conditions Hair Without
Affecting Dyes, Perms or Pores*
CT1811_12_Testing_Tsujino_fcx.indd 46 11/2/18 4:56 PM

Yoshio Tsujino
Japan Advanced Institute of Science and
Technology, Nomi, Ishikawa, Japan
S ilicones have a
long history of
use in beauty
and personal
care products,
extending back to
the early 1950s. These versatile polymers, which
comprise silicon and oxygen atoms, represent a
broad chemical family. They can form structures
with almost endless variations and a range of
useful properties. For example, modifications can
be made by altering their molecular weight or by
adding organic functionalities, such as polyether,
alkyl and amine. The resulting materials include
volatile fluids, gums, waxes and elastomers, and
they can be oil or water soluble.
Silicones offer several useful character-
istics for both consumers and formulators,
including:
• Ease of spreading, with a smooth,

silky and lasting
afterfeel on skin and hair;
• Water repellency;
• Hair shine, smoothness and
improved combing;
• A broad range of colorless,
transparent and odorless forms;
• Emulsion options for ease of
formulation; and
• An extensive history of testing
and safe use.
*Republished with permission

from the Journal of Japan Hair
Science Association (in Japanese)
Vol. 133, No.

Reproduction 10 |orNovember/December
in English of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2018 Allured Business Media.
any other language of all or part2018 Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 47

Unassuming Softness
To reduce hair damage, conditioning products

including silicone and cationic cellulose were
developed, which form a positively charged
coacervate that deposits on the hair.
Shampoos were first formulated with a positively charged coacervate that deposits on
silicones more than 30 years ago. With advanc- the hair surface.
ing silicone technology, these ingredients came Beginning in 1992, nonscientific reports
into broader use for hair cuticle protection and began to circulate suggesting silicones in two-in-
conditioning, similar to earlier-used mineral and one shampoos may negatively impact the effect
vegetable oils or fatty acid esters. of oxidative hair dyes and permanent waves, as
When hair becomes damaged, its fiber well as block pores. These reports became more
surfaces become hydrophilic.1 This leads to visible via the use of the web—and later with
roughness and a feeling of “drag” and stiffness social media and blogs—leading to silicone-
during combing, along with tangling.2 This free claims in specific variants of commercial
hydrophilization of the hair surface is due to a products. These inaccuracies likely reflect a
loss of the F-Layer, which mainly comprises the misunderstanding of the mechanism of action
fatty acid 18-methyleicosanoic acid (18-MEA). of silicones.
Chemical treatments such as bleaching or perm- As such, the current study explores changes
ing may remove this component of the F-layer. in hair texture due to silicone-containing
It has been reported3-5 that in a single shampoo formulations, as well as their effects
permanent waving treatment, approximately on the scalp. Moreover, the impact of silicone-
50% of the 18-MEA content is lost; in a bleach- containing shampoo formulations on both
ing treatment, almost all of it is lost. Further, oxidative hair dyeing by acidic dyes and perma-
in temporary coloring products based on acid nent wave formulations is described.
processes, 18-MEA is removed due to ingre-
dients such as benzyl alcohol, which acts as a Understanding Coacervates
carrier for colorant into the fiber. Exposure to Cationic cellulose is obtained by imparting a
UV also has been reported to cause the removal cationic character to cellulose, a polysaccharide
of 18-MEA.5 (see Figure 1). Cellulose itself is derived from
To help reduce such hair damage, products plants and modified to become soluble in water.
with conditioning benefits were developed. Cationic cellulose is obtained by transforming a
Silicone and cationic cellulose are among the percentage of the alcoholic sites on the poly-
main materials formulated for this purpose, and mer into cationic sites via alkylation with, for
when diluted with water, these ingredients form example, glycidyltrimethylammonium chloride.
The impact on the performance, i.e., soft feel on
the hair when rinsing, varies according to the
degree of cationic character (a) of the cellulose
The global silicone market, including industrial or anionic charge of the surfactant.6-14
and personal care applications, was valued at The cationic polymer present in shampoo
US $13.45 billion in 2016 and is projected to formulations forms an ion complex with anionic
reach US $18.87 billion by 2022. surfactants. The morphology of the ion complex
varies significantly with the surfactant concen-
tration and degree of micelle concentration (see
Source: MarketsandMarkets Figure 2).7, 8 At an anionic surfactant concentra-
tion below its critical micelle concentration
(CMC), the cationic polymer forms a transpar-

ent solution, since few surfactant molecules are when the hair is adequately wet, it is diluted
in the bonded state with the cationic polymer seven- to tenfold and is further diluted upon
(see Figure 2, Stage 1). The ion complex sepa- rinsing.15 At this stage, the number of bonded
rates in the region where the cationic charge micelles decreases, and a crosslinked structure
of the cationic polymer is neutralized by the in which the micelle engulfed in the cationic
anionic surfactant (see Figure 2, Stage 2). This polymer forms. When the cationic charge of the
phenomenon of separation of an ion complex is polymer and the anionic charge of the surfac-
called coacervation, and the separated product is tant are both high, the crossl-inking increases
called a coacervate. Moreover, at high concentra- considerably to afford a closely-packed ion
tions of anionic surfactant, many micelles are complex film. When both charges are low, the
bonded to the cationic
polymer and the solution
becomes transparent again
(see Figure 2, Stage 3).
In contrast, when
typically high starting
concentrations of anionic
surfactant—such as in a
shampoo (Stage 3)—are
reduced by dilution, the
ion complex dissolu-
tion state shifts toward
Stage 2.11-14 At this level,
the structure of the ion
complex changes accord-
ing to the balance between where m = 2-3 and a is the degree of cationic substitution per single saccharide unit
the cationic charge of the
cationic polymer and Figure 1. Molecular structure of cationic cellulose
the anionic charge of the
anionic surfactant.11 The
structure of the ionic
complex is determined by
the charge of the cationic
polymer and the anionic
surfactant/amphoteric
surfactant micelle, and
the feel of the shampoo
changes accordingly. The
higher the charge of the
cationic polymer and the
anionic surfactant/ampho-
teric surfactant micelle,
the more intricate and
closely packed the struc-
ture, and the thicker the
film. When both charges
are weak, however, an ion
complex having a loose
structure and contain-
ing gaps is formed. The
feel and thickness also
Figure 2. Change in dissolved state of cationic polymer/
changes accordingly. anionic surfactant composite15
If the shampoo is used

Unassuming Softness
Formula 1. Test Shampoo Formulations
Ingredient 10% Formula 15% Formula

Anionic surfactant (Sodium Laureth Sulfate) 6.0 9.0
Amphoteric surfactant (Cocamidopropyl Betaine) 4.0 6.0
Nonionic surfactant (Cocamido Methylmonoethanol Amine) 2.0 2.0
Cationic polymer (Polyquaternium-10) 0.3 0.3
Citric Acid qs to pH 6.0 ± 0.3 qs to pH 6.0 ± 0.3
Silicone Emulsion (as silicone 0.5) (as silicone 0.5)
Water (aqua) qs to 100.0% qs to 100.0%
cross-linking decreases and an ion complex emollient effects to preserve moisture, softness
with a loose network structure forms. The and similar nurturing characteristics.
thickness of the coating on the hair surface, Shampoos also include nonionic surfactants
or the feel at the time of rinsing, thus changes such as foaming agents or amphoteric agents,
according to the structure of the ion complex. which can help control the performance of the
Once separated, the coacervate does not revert product. It is therefore possible to change the
to Stage 1 by dilution upon rinsing. Also, when structure of the coacervate complex8 by control-
the shampoo is diluted abruptly to Stage 1 (100 ling the anionic charge per micelle based on
times or more), the coacervate does not form their proportion, and by controlling the cationic
and does not separate from the system. charge based on the cationic character of the
cationic polymer.
Shampoo Dynamics During dilution, the shampoo forms a hydro-
A shampoo formulation typically consists phobic coacervate and is deposited on the hair
of 10-15% surfactants—not only anionic, but via hydrophobic interactions with the hydropho-
also amphoteric—plus, approximately 0.5% bic hair surface, thus giving a better feel upon
cationic polymer such as the cationic cellulose. rinsing. On the other hand, the coacervate plays
Moreover, oil-based ingredients such as silicone the role of a carrier for efficient deposition of
or jojoba oil are dispersed in the shampoo for other dispersed active ingredients. The dispersed
ingredients are incorporated
during coacervate formation
and are deposited on the hair
along with coacervate via
hydrophobic interactions.8, 13, 14
Coacervate
Formation and
Deposition
Coacervate verification:
Before assessing its deposition
onto hair, coacervate formation
was first verified using silicone
as a marker (see Figure 2).
Formulations containing 10%
and 15% of an anionic surfac-
tant and amphoteric surfactant
(see Formula 1) were diluted
seven- and tenfold, respectively.
Figure 3. Amount of coacervate formed The amount of coacervate was

measured based on the extent of turbidity using
a spectrophotometer (see Figure 3), and in all
cases, coacervate formation was confirmed; the
maximum amount was formed with the 10%
formulation diluted sevenfold and the minimum
with 15% formulation diluted tenfold.
Hair treatment protocol: Next, to measure
the deposition of coacervate onto the hair sur-
face, healthy black hair of Japanese origin was
first soaked for 1 min at room temperature (RT)
in the 10% diluted test formula (see Formula 1)
or its undiluted equivalent, for comparison, then
rinsed with warm water at 40°C for 1 min. Hair
was then towel-dried and air-dried.
Deposition via EDX: To measure the depo-
sition of coacervate, energy dispersive x-ray
spectroscopy (EDX) was performed on the
treated hair. EDX is primarily used to obtain
elemental information on an outermost Figure 4. Measurement of
surface. Interestingly, the observed quan- amodimethicone on hair surface using
tity deposited from the 10% dilution was energy dispersive EDX
significantly more than from its undiluted

Unassuming Softness
Table 1. Quantity of Coacervate Formed via TOF-SIMS*14 equivalent (see Figure 4).

The authors concluded this
was due to coacervate forma-
m/z 207 tion, explained in Figure 2
Formula C5H16Si3O3 and previously demon-
strated.11 This indicated the
10% Formulation, diluted 7×, 0.5% amodimethicone 6.13
amodimethicone present in
15% Formulation, diluted 10×, 0.5% dimethicone 2.81 the coacervate was deposited
onto the hair surface.14
*All numerical values are standardized to total ions; surface spectrum just after obtaining
normalized intensity of various positive PDMS ions of interest (x10,000 normalized to total Deposition measured
ion count) via TOF-SIMS: Similar
experiments were conducted
using dimethicone, but
measurements via EDX could
not detect its deposition.
Since dimethicone is used
more frequently in shampoo
formulations than amodi-
methicone, measurements
were pursued further using
time-of-flight secondary ion
mass spectrometry (TOF-
SIMS), which has a higher
sensitivity than EDX and
an extremely small depth of
analysis of about 1 nm.16
In TOF-SIMS, second-
ary ions generated from
the outermost surface by a
pulsed ion beam are analyzed
by means of a time-of-flight
mass spectrometer, for
obtaining information about
the chemical structure of
the outermost surface. As
Figure 5. Dynamic coefficient of friction related to shown in Table 1, TOF-SIMS
revealed that approximately
shampoo treatment
one layer of dimethicone
was present, attributed once
again to the carrier effect
of coacervation.14
Formula 2. Oxidative Hair Dye Formula
Hair Friction Test
Ingredient % w/w Next, the coefficient
Solution 1 of dynamic friction was
p-Aminophenol 0.2 assessed for hair washed
p-Amino o-Cresol 0.1 and dried using the 15%
25% Aqueous Ammonia 7.0 surfactant-containing sham-
Purified Water (aqua) 92.7 poo described in Formula
Solution 2 1, adapted according to A
Hydrogen Peroxide 6.0 through F in Figure 5.14 Ten
Water (aqua) 94.0 hair strands pasted on a glass
slide at 1 mm intervals were

used as the samples. Each sample was placed treated with the 15% surfactant shampoo (see
on a friction testera and the frictional force was Formula 1), followed by an oxidative hair dye
measured while moving the contact element (see Formula 2) or permanent wave treatment
at 1 mm/s with a 25-g weight (n = 3). Measure- (see Formula 3). Similar to before, hair was
ments of frictional force were performed at 25°C soaked in the test shampoo for 1 min at RT,
and 50% RH. rinsed with warm water at 40°C for 1 min, then
Reduced friction was confirmed for all towel-dried and air-dried.
formulations containing cationic cellulose. After Oxidative dye treatment: The oxidative hair
drying, however, the cationic cellulose generally dye was obtained by mixing equal amounts of
did not impart a slippery or smooth feel on the Solutions 1 and 2 in Formula 2, and then used
hair, depending on the formulation. In contrast, to soak the preshampooed hair at 30°C for 30
treatment with a silicone-containing shampoo min. Thereafter, hair was again washed but
improved the slippery,
smooth feel after drying Formula 3. Permanent Wave Formula
(see Figure 5); similar
results were obtained using
the 10% shampoo (data Ingredient % w/w
not shown). Solution 1
Thioglycolic Acid 6.0
Oxidative Dye Ammonium Dihydrogen Phosphate 2.0
25% Aqueous Ammonia to pH 8.5
and Permanent Water (aqua) qs to 100%
Wave Protocols Solution 2
Next, sample tresses Sodium Bromate 8.0
of healthy black hair from Sodium Dihydrogen Phosphate 2.0
Japanese subjects were Phosphoric Acid to pH 9.0
Water (aqua) qs to 100.0%
a KatoTech Co. Ltd.
Even after the deposition

of dimethicone due to
coacervation, hair dye
color was not affected.

Unassuming Softness
previously) was soaked in

Solution 1 of the permanent
wave treatment at 30°C for 15
min. Thereafter, the treated
hair was rinsed with warm
water at 40°C for 1 min
and toweled dry. Following,
towel-dried hair was soaked in
Solution 2 of the permanent
wave treatment at 30°C for 15
min; following, it again was
towel-dried and air-dried.
Results:
Coacervate vs.
Dye and Perm
Formulas
Using a spectrophotom-
eter, the authors found that
Figure 6. Influence of silicone deposition on oxidative even after the deposition of
hair dye14 dimethicone due to coacerva-
tion, hair dye color was not
affected; per L, a, b measure-
ments with and without silicone (see Figure 6).
Similarly, hair treated with the permanent-wave
solution containing thioglycolic acid as the
main ingredient (see Formula 3) was evaluated
by the Kirby method.17 When dimethicone was
deposited onto hair due to the carrier effect
of the coacervate, the wave effect remained
unchanged (see Figure 7). A similar result was
obtained with cysteine as the main ingredient of
the permanent wave.
Although not shown here, similar inves-
tigations were made for a combination of
dimethicone and amodimethicone as well as
petroleum jelly in place of dimethicone, but no
significant differences in oxidative hair dyeing
or permanent wave effects were noted.
Effects on the Scalp18

Finally, the potential for silicone to plug
scalp pores was evaluated by measuring the
Figure 7. Influence of deposition of permeation of lidocaine into pig skin, which
silicone on permanent waving14 was prepared by hair-plucking to expose the
pores. Lidocaine, one of the most commonly
used local anesthetics, is known for its high
with a 15% shampoo formulation excluding silicone, cutaneous permeability in molecular form. It
rinsed with warm water at 40°C for 1 min, and towel- exists in ionic form at pH 5.0, which is less than
dried and air-dried again. its isoelectric point (pI, 7.9), and, therefore,
Permanent wave treatment: For the permanent cannot penetrate the highly fat-soluble stratum
wave process, preshampooed hair (as described corneum. Consequently, its main route for

penetration is through pores
of the skin. At a pH higher
than the isoelectric point
(pH 10.0), lidocaine is in
molecular form, which has
higher hydrophobic char-
acter compared to the ionic
form, so it can penetrate the
stratum corneum. Thus, by
using the ionic form of lido-
caine (pH 5.0), which follows
skin pores as its main route
of penetration, it could be
determined whether or not
various silicone emulsions
and silicone-blended sham-
poos blocked skin pores.
A silicone emulsionb or
the same 15% test shampoo
formula (see Formula 1)
was used to treat skin, and
the penetration of the drug
Figure 8. Skin permeation vs. rinse time using silicone-
into skin was assessed. containing shampoo
Results demonstrated
that even when the silicone
emulsion was directly coated onto pig skin,
the pores were not blocked when washed with
warm water at 40°C. Further, when the skin
was coated with foam from the 15% shampoo
formulation for 1 min, then rinsed for 30 sec,
the degree of permeation was similar to that
of with a pure-water coating (see Figure 8). It
was therefore concluded the silicone-blended
shampoo did not block skin pores under
normal use.
Conclusions
The mechanism underlying coacervate
formation acts by means of an ion complex of
an anionic surfactant and cationic cellulose.
The resulting sensory effects due to silicone
deposited on the hair surface have been out-
lined, including slippery and smooth sensory
performance. Moreover, silicone does not
appear to influence oxidative hair dyeing or
permanent wave treatments. Additional results
determined that silicone-blended shampoos do
not block skin pores.
From the consumer perspective, the com-
bined sensory aspects of hair are judged by
combing or running fingers through the hair.
b SM8904 or BY 22, Dow Corning

Unassuming Softness
For each individual, hair condition on the References

front and back sides of the head can be notice- 1. ML Tate, YK Kamath, SB Ruetsch and HD Weigmann,
ably different. Moreover, for the same hair, its Quantification and prevention of hair damage, J Cosmet Sci
44(6) 347-371 (1993)
condition at the root, along the extended fiber,
2. H Tanamach, S Tokunaga, N Tanji, M Oguri and S Inoue,
or tip, is different. Hair condition also differs 18-MEA and hair appearance, J Cosmet Sci 61(2)
with the cross section of a hair fiber, whether in 147-16 (2010)
the cuticle, cortex or medulla. Scientists tend 3. CR Robbins and MK Bahl, Analysis of hair by electron
to follow the path of analysis or research at the spectroscopy for chemical analysis, J Soc Cosmet Chem
35(8) 379-390 (1984)
micro level, but where product formulations
4. Y Masukawa, H Tsujimura H Tanamachi, H Narita and G
and development are concerned, macro-level Imokawa, Damage to human hair caused by repeated
evaluation is imperative. Thus, identifying the bleaching combined with daily weathering during daily life
reasons for the sensory aspects of hair feel; activities, Exog Dermatol 3(6) 273-281 (2004)
5. T Habe, N Tanji, S Inoue, M Okamoto, S Tokunaga and
verification by macro analysis; and translating
H Tanamach, ToF-SIMS characterization of the lipid layer
these concepts to innovative products are vital. on the hair surface. I: The damage caused by chemical
Once lost, 18-MEA cannot be reproduced on treatments and UV radiation, Surf Interface Anal 43(1-2)
410-412 (2011)
the hair surface. Hence, hair care products such
6. ED Goddard and RB Hannan, Polymer/surfactant interac-
as shampoos play a major role in preserving this
tions, J Am Oil Chem Soc 54(12) 561-566 (1977)
lost component of hair fiber. Scientific analy-
7. K Ohbu, O Hiraishi and I Kashiwa, Effect of quaternary
sis of hair care processes, and the expanded ammonium substitution of hydroxyethylcellulose on
knowledge obtained, will allow the development binding of dodecyl sulfate, J Am Oil Chem Soc 59(2)
108-112 (1982)
of next-generation hair care products for today’s
8. Miyuki Miyake, Property and function appearance of
wide range of global consumers.
cationic compounds in hair surface modification, Hyomen
47(12) 433-445 (2009)
9. PL Dubin, JH Gruber, J Xia and H Zhang, The effect of
cations on the interaction between dodecylsulfate micelles
and poly(ethyleneoxide), J Colloid Interface Sci 148(1)
35-41 (1992)
10. K Yoshida, Y Morishima, PL Dubin and M Mizusaki,
Binding of cationic mixed micelles to pyrene-labeled
poly((acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate), Macromol-
ecules 30(20) 6208-6214 (1997)
11. M Miyake and Y Kakizawa, Morphological study of
cationic polymer-anionic surfactant complex precipitated
in solution during the dilution process, J Cosmet Sci 61(4)
289-301 (2010)
12. Y Tsujino and M Miyake, Ionic Complex/Coacervate (first
volume), Marcel 236 40-47 (2013)
13. Y Tsujino and M Miyake, Relationship Between 'Shampoo'
and 'Silicone' and 'Ion Complex,' Marcel 237 16-23 (2013)
14. Y Tsujino, Technology to improve the smoothness of the
hair surface in shampoo formulation, and its influence on
hair-coloring and permanent-waving, J Japan Hair Science
Association 47(4) 16-24 (2015)
15. Y Iwasawa, Measure Dilution Ratio of Shampoo, Marcel 237
24-25 (2013)
16. A Benninghoven, Secondary Ion Mass Spectrometry, John
Wiley and Sons, New York (1987) p 671
17. DH Kirby, The waving efficiency of cold permanent wave
lotion, Drug Cosmet Ind 80(3) 314-397 (1957)
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Skin Pores, Marcel 237 34-37 (2013)
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Formulating | C&T ®
KEY POINTS
• Previously, the “Oil Sensory Qualification”
test was outlined to quickly evaluate
the sensory properties of raw materials
in formulas.
• As a follow-up, this article describes the

further development and validation of this
test for consistency over time.
Judgment
Stands Emollient Profiling Proven
Consistent Over Time
58
T Céline Marque
Oriflame R&D, Bray, Ireland
Reproduction suchorclaims,
in English any other and
| www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com allsensations perceived by consumers.
raditionally, oil emollients have been
considered as raw materials having
smoothing or softening proper-
ties. They are put into cosmetic
products to provide moisturizing
benefits and to support a variety
of conditioning claims.1, 2 Sensory science has enabled
companies to gather objective and scientific results to
support toofqualify and quantify the
language
or part of this article is strictly prohibited.
3 133, No. 10 | November/December 2018
Vol.
CT1811_12_Form_Marque_fcx.indd 58 11/2/18 5:09 PM

Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2018 Allured Business Media. Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 59

Judgement Stands
To validate the consistency, over time, of

Oil Sensory Qualification, the same raw
material was introduced multiple times in the
same session or in different sessions.
Table 1. Evaluation Step of the Six Attributes

The global emollient esters market is expected
to reach US $226.1 million by 2020, growing at
Attribute Evaluation a CAGR of 5.4% between 2015 and 2020.
Attribute 1 At application
Attribute 3 At application Source: MarketsandMarkets
Attribute 5 Just after application
Attribute 6 Just after application Sensory science is still new in the cosmetic
area, compared with the foods industry, so a sen-
sory science standard for assessing cosmetic oils
Table 2. Oil Samples has not yet been estab-
lished. For this reason,
a bibliographic review
was previously under-
Code for Evaluation
Oil INCI Names taken4 to define which
graph sessions
of the classical methods
Cyclopentasiloxane/ could be the most suit-
1 CCP(1) 1, 2, 3
Cyclohexasiloxane
able for emollients.
2 Isodecyl Neopentanoate IDN 1, 3 The classical method,
3 Coco-Caprylate/Caprate CCC 1, 2 Quantitative Descriptive
4 Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate NGD 1 Analysis (QDA), using
a trained panel was not
5 Isoamyl Laurate IAL 1, 3
found to be sufficient
6 C13-15 Alkane C13-15 1, 3 to test this type of raw
7 PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Ethylhexanoate PPG 1 material. As a result,
8 Coconut Alkanes CCA 1, 2 a novel “Oil Sensory
Qualification” method
9 Hydrogenated Ethyl Hexyl Olivate HETEXO 1, 2
was introduced4 in
10 Propanediol Dicaprylate PPD 1, 2 January 2018.
Cyclopentasiloxane/ This sensory method
11 CCP(2) 1, 2, 3
Cyclohexasiloxane allows for the global
12 Dicaprylyl Ether DCE 2 comparison of several oils
13 Isopropylmyristate IPM 2 by only a few attributes,
selected by chemists. Like
14 Ethylhexyl Stearate EHS 2
other new sensory meth-
15 Ethylhexyl Palmitate EHP 3 ods published in the last
16 Diisopropyl Adipate DIPAD 3 couple of years (projective
17 Triethylhexanoin TEH 3 mapping, free sorting,
18 Cetearyl Isononanoate CISOA 3 etc.),5-9 this approach
provides similar results to

the QDA method but in a shorter time. caprate (CCC) were presented in two different
The benefit of classical sensory methods, sessions—i.e., Sessions 1 and 2, or Sessions 1 and
however, is they are consistent over time 3—to measure the consistency of the methodol-
because of the trained panel. It is well-estab- ogy over time. A maximum of 11 raw materials
lished that when a panel has good performance per session was presented following current
and is well-calibrated, the measurements are sensory science standards: identical packaging,
stable over time.3 On the other hand, few of the same quantity, random three-digit code identi-
recent sensory studies published in the food and fier (different from one another), raw materials
cosmetics areas have investi-
gated whether sensory results
are consistent over time.10
cted The aim of the present
ng at study therefore was to validate
the consistency, over time, VIDEO
of the Oil Sensory Qualifica-
tion method by repeatedly
introducing the same raw
material multiple times during
the same session. Some raw
Formulating Cream-gels
materials also were repeated
during different sessions to
C
compare results.
Test Protocol
In-house formulation chem-
ists (n > 10, minimum) were
recruited to perform the Oil
Sensory Qualification sessions ream-gel product forms, with
based on their expertise in their fast-breaking sensory
formulation and use of the oils. effects on skin, have attracted
A quick training was performed recent consumer attention.
to set standards and ensure They also have drawn for-
the six chosen attributes and
mulators' interest for their
their evaluation protocols were
understood (see Table 1) at multifunctional potential. In relation, IFF/Lucas Meyer
the beginning of each session. recently showcased the cold-process capabilities of two gell-
(Editor’s note: For proprietary ing agents to form cream-gels, as shown in this video demo.
reasons, the six attributes are
generalized in the present article.)
In total, 18 samples were
tested (see Table 2) and
three different sessions were
performed—Session 1, 2 and
3. Cyclopentasiloxane/cyclo-
hexasiloxane (CCP), one of the
raw materials, was presented
twice during each session—
i.e., CCP(1) and CCP(2)—to
measure the consistency of the
panel during this session.
In addition, some materials
such as isodecyl neopentano-
ate (IDN) and coco-caprylate/
CT1811_12_Form_Marque_DE.indd 61 11/9/18 1:51 PM

Judgement Stands
Figure 1. Correspondence analysis map: Session 1

presented in different orders following the Latin results per session (see Figures 1-3) and was
square plan, etc. performed using softwarea.
The formulation chemists tested the samples, As a second step to check the consistency
one after the other, and answered a sensory of results over time, CA global matrices were
questionnaire. They applied one drop of oil modified to compare only those oils evaluated
to their volar forearms and evaluated it for a during two different sessions; i.e., the same six
total of 90 sec, assessing four attributes during raw materials evaluated in Sessions 1 and 2; the
application and two attributes after applica- same single raw material evaluated in Sessions 2
tion. At the end of the evaluation, the chemists and 3; and the same five raw materials evaluated
chose which two attributes best characterized in Sessions 1 and 3.
the given sensory perception during and after The Rv coefficient was used to analyze the
application and reported their choices in the similarity of results between the two sessions. If
questionnaire. The assessments were performed the Rv value range was between 0.7 and 1, the
under standard sensory test conditions; i.e., two global sensory representations were consid-
dedicated room, independent evaluations, ered to be similar.12, 13 If the Rv value was lower
controlled temperature and humidity, etc.11 than 0.7, the two sensory representations were
considered to be different from one another. The
Data Collection and Analysis Rv coefficient was calculated using softwareb.
First, the oil assessment data was collected
for each sample and each session. The attributes Results: Session 1
chosen by panelists for best sensory character- A global representation of the sensory differ-
ization were graded as “1”; attributes not chosen ences between the 11 oils was obtained by CA
were graded “0.” The sums of these grades (see Figure 1). Here, 81.5% of the information
per oil were compiled into a global matrix to
perform a multidimensional statistical analysis
referred to as a correspondance analysis (CA).6 a
Statistica13 software, Dell USA
This allowed for the global representation of b
XlStat software, Addinsoft

Judgment Stands
was represented, meaning a high level; a minimum of

75% was expected.
Axis description, Figure 1: On the horizontal axis,
Attributes 3 and 6 are located on the left corner of the
map, opposite of Attributes 1 and 2. On the vertical
axis, Attribute 4 is located on the top area of the sensory
map. Attribute 5 is in the middle of the map.
Oil description, Figure 1: Two groups of oils are
clearly differentiated on the horizontal axis: CCP(1)
and CCP(2); and isoamyl laurate (IAL), hydrogenated
ethylhexyl olivate (HETEXO) and PPG-3 benzyl ether
ethylhexanoate (PPG). On one hand, these five oils can
be discriminated from the others, since CCP(1) and
CCP(2) are more defined by Attributes 3 and 6. On the
other hand, IAL, HETEXO and PPG are located on the
right of this axis. Hence, these three are more character-
ized by Attributes 1 and 2.
Furthermore, few oils are differentiated on the
vertical axis. Neopentyl glycol diheptanoate (NGD)
and C13-15 alkane (C13-15) are located on the top of
the map. These are more defined by Attribute 4 and
are different from the rest of the oils. Few oils are in
the middle of the map; coconut alkanes (CCA), IDN,
CCC and propanediol dicaprylate (PPD) are defined by
Attribute 5.
Results: Session 2
A global representation of the sensory differences
between the nine oils was obtained by CA (see Fig-
ure 2). Here, 88.5% of the information is represented.
Axis description, Figure 2: On the horizontal axis,
Attributes 3 and 6 are located on the right corner of the
map, opposite of Attributes 1 and 2. On the vertical axis,
Attribute 4 is located on the bottom area of the sensory
map; Attribute 5 is in the middle of the map.
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Then you’re sure to like the one from
our January 2018 edition. Click back
to Page 52, where we learned more
about Sensory Insight.
Sensory
Insight
CT1811_12_Form_Marque_DE.indd 64 11/9/18 1:51 PM

Oil description, Figure 2: Two groups of CCP(1), CCP(2), C13-15 and IDN; and ethylhexyl
oils clearly differentiated on the horizontal axis palmitate (EHP), triethylhexanoin (TEH) and
are: CCP(1), CCP(2), dicaprylyl ether (DCE) cetearyl isononanoate (CISOA). These seven oils
and CCA; and HETEXO and ethylhexyl stearate could be discriminated since CCP(1), CCP(2),
(EHS). These six oils can be discriminated from C13-15 and IDN are more defined by Attributes
one another since CCP(1), CCP(2), DCE and 3 and 6, and EHP, TEH and CISOA, by Attri-
CCA are more defined by Attributes 3 and 6, and butes 1 and 2.
HETEXO and EHS, by Attributes 1 and 2. Moreover, few oils were differentiated on the
Furthermore, few oils are differentiated on vertical axis; diisopropyl adipate (DIPAD) and
the vertical axis; only PPD and isopropylmyristat IAL are located on the top of the map as they
(IPM) are located on the bottom of the map, as are more defined by Attribute 4 than the other
they are more defined by Attribute 4 and differ- oils. Attribute 5 is located on the bottom of the
ent from the other oils. One oil is in the middle map; no oils were defined by Attribute 5, in
of the map; CCC is defined by Attribute 5. this session.
Rv coefficient values: The calculated Rv
Results: Session 3 values and associated p values are shown
A global representation of the sensory differ- in Table 3.
ences between the nine oils was obtained by CA
(see Figure 3). Here, 88.9% of the information Comparisons
is represented. In this study, six raw materials were evalu-
Axis description, Figure 3: On the horizon- ated in both Sessions 1 and 2; one material
tal axis, Attributes 3 and 6 are located on the left was evaluated in Sessions 2 and 3; and five raw
corner of the map, opposite of Attributes 1 and materials were evaluated in Sessions 1 and 3.
2. On the vertical axis, Attribute 4 is located at As stated, the CA enabled the global representa-
the top of the sensory map and Attribute 5 is at tion of sensory differences for each session. The
the bottom. Rv coefficient also allowed for the calculation
Oil description, Figure 3: Two groups of oils of the degree of similarity between two global
clearly differentiated on the horizontal axis are: sensory representations.

Judgment Stands
To check the
consistency of results
over time, CA global
matrices were
modified to compare
only those oils
evaluated during two
different sessions.
Table 3. Rv values the three different sessions, CCP(1) and CCP(2)

were sorted in the same group and defined by
Attributes 3 and 6. This raw material, i.e. CCP,
Sessions Rv Value p value validated the consistency of the panel during a
1 vs 2 0.742 0.025 session and supported the consistency over time
of the sensory method.
2 vs 3 1.000 0.000
Sessions 1 and 3: The Rv value calculated
1 vs 3 0.435 0.500 from Sessions 1 and 3 was 0.435, with a p value
= 0.5. This showed some of the five raw materi-
als were defined differently in both sessions.
Sessions 1 and 2: The Rv value calculated As mentioned earlier, CCP(1) and CCP(2) were
from Sessions 1 and 2 was 0.74, with a p value sorted in the same group for both sessions and
= 0.025. This supported the conclusion that the described by Attributes 3 and 6. In Session 1,
six raw materials were defined the same way in IDN was described by Attribute 5; C13-15 was
both sessions. described by Attribute 4; and IAL was described
CCP(1) and CCP(2) were described by by Attributes 1 and 2. On the other hand, in
Attributes 3 and 6; HETEXO was described by Session 3, IDN and C13-15 were described by
Attribute 1; and CCC, by Attribute 5. Only two Attributes 3 and 6, and IAL was described by
raw materials, CCA and PPD, were not defined Attribute 4. This highlights the fact that these
the same way in both sessions, which also is three raw materials, in addition to the two
why the Rv value was not 1. In Session 1, CCA materials tested in Session 1 (CCA and PPD) are
was described by Attribute 5, whereas in Session more complex from a sensory point of view, and
2, it was described by Attributes 3 and 6. Also, in do not have a clearly defined sensory profile.
Session 1, PPD was described by Attribute 2, but
in Session 2, it was described by Attribute 4. Discussion
Sessions 2 and 3: The Rv value calculated The present validation of the Oil Sensory
from Sessions 2 and 3 was 1, with a p value = Qualification method’s consistency over time
0.000. These results supported the conclusion showed encouraging results. It also reinforced
that the two raw materials CCP(1) and CCP(2) the possible use of Oil Sensory Qualification
were defined the same way in both sessions. In with other raw material categories; such as

thickeners.4 However, some areas of improve- Acknowledgements: The author would like to thank the Oriflame
R&D formulation chemists; Clara Le Berre and Emily Whelan for
ment can be discussed.
their participation; and all reviewers for their constructive comments.
In the validation study, for example, the
consistency over time was shown for several raw
materials, but not all of them. And for the chem- References:
ists, some raw materials were easier to describe 1. R Schuller and P Romanowski, Conditioning agents for hair
and skin, in Cosmetic Science and Technologies Series,
from a sensory point of view than others; this Dekker, New York 21 (1999)
may indicate that different raw materials tested 2. AM Pensé-Lhéritier, Conception des produits-la formulation,
during the same session could impact the Coll Cosmetic Valley France, Lavoisier (2014)
sensory perceptions of one another. 3. H Stone and JL Sidel, Sensory evaluation practices, Global
To help discriminate oils, two standards Cosmetic Industry (2004)
should be assessed during the evaluation. These 4. C Marque, Sensory insight: Emollient profiling accelerates
speed to Market, Cosm & Toil 133(1) 52-57 (Jan 2018)
standards could be consistent and representative
5. M Santosa, H Abdi and JX Guinard, A modified sorting task
of Attribute 1, and consistent and representative to investigate consumer perceptions of extrac virgin oils,
of Attribute 4. This would allow for more dif- Food Quality and Preference (21) 881-892 (2010)
ferentiation between oils with unclear sensory 6. V Dairou and JM Sieffermann, A comparison of 14
profiles. Indeed, a further finding of this study jams characterized by conventional profile and a quick
original method, the Flash Profile, J Food Science 67(2)
confirmed the use of the six attributes selected 826-34 (2002)
and the standards already tested during the 7. P Faye, D Bremaud and M Durand Daubin, Perceptive
preliminary study.4 Groups of oils were created free sorting and verbalization tasks with naıve subjects:
in different sessions, and the chemists made An alternative to descriptive mappings, Food Quality and
Preference 15 (7-8) 781-791 (2004)
discriminations between them and understood
8. A Gambaro, ME Parente and A Gimenez, Free-choice pro-
the sensations on which to focus. In total, 18 file descriptive analysis with conditioning agents, J Cosmet
raw materials were assessed and, thanks to Sci (57) 455-63 (2006)
the consistency, sensory descriptions could be 9. ME Parente, G Ares and AV Manzoni, Application of two
confirmed (data not shown). consumer profiling techniques to cosmetic emulsions, J
Sensory Studies (25) 685–705 (2010)
Thus, the Oil Sensory Qualification method
10. E Risvik, Projective mapping: A tool for sensory analysis
appears to be the more suitable and faster and consumer research, Food Quality and Preference 5(4)
sensory methodology to qualify oils provided 263-269 (1994)
by different suppliers. As mentioned in the 11. ISO 8589, Sensory analysis—General guidance for the
design of test rooms (2007)
first article,4 QDA profiling and an expert panel
12. B Escofier and J Pages, Multiple factor analysis, Computa-
would have taken five times longer to obtain
tional Statistics and Data Analysis (18) 121-140 (1994)
consistent results.
13. P Robert and PY Escoufier, A unifying tool for linear
multivariate statistical methods: The RV-coefficient, Applied
Conclusion Statistics (25) 257–265 (1976)
Among the more recently published sensory
test methods,5-9 few (if any) have been tested
and confirmed for consistency over time, apart
from the Oil Sensory Qualification described
here. Consistency over repeated trials was also
C&T Sponsored Webcast Videos
established for projective mapping.10 However,
Find current and upcoming webcasts at
to leverage the full benefits toward the future www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
use of this time-efficient sensory test method,
sensory researchers must fully validate it by
performing replication studies.
This study demonstrated positive results
on the consistency, over time, of the new “Oil
Sensory Qualification” method. This approach C&T Daily Newsletter
enables cosmetics companies to evaluate raw
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materials quickly and cost-effectively to provide
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Branded Content
This content is sponsored by:
Photos courtesy of BASF
Tackling the Skin

Microbiome
F
or years, the study of the human body has ible probiotics and prebiotics, but their interest in the
shown that microbial cells outnumber microbiome for skin health is still in its initial growth
human cells by a ten to one ratio. Despite phase. Millennials are setting the trend, being the
this understanding, there were few group most interested in the microbiome and trying
studies completed to clarify the influence products targeted for facial skin care. However, interest
these cells had on the overall health and well-being of in the microbiome and how it relates to beauty has also
an individual. Enter the Human Microbiome Project, been growing for those 55 and older.3 Consumers have
where the above topic was the key focus.1 Since its started to look for more personalized products that
initiation more than a decade ago, substantial strides fit their skin care needs. The microflora and microbi-
in the research have helped us to better understand the ome are diverse not only from person to person, but
microbiota, or community of micro-organisms, living even from one part of the body to another. It is not a
at the surface of and within our skin. The microbiome, surprise that since 2015, significant growth has been
or the collective genomes of the microbiota, have a observed for products containing microbiome entities,
role in maintaining our health, both internally as well with an increase of 45% in overall microbiome-focused
as externally, on our skin. The skin and its microbiota launches compared to previous years.3
form an ecosystem containing commensal or “good” The driver behind many of these products is the
bacteria, and pathogenic or “bad” bacteria, which are desire to find a balance between commensal and patho-
both present on the skin.2 genic bacteria; a balance that leads to healthy skin. The
Consumers have largely embraced the microbiome commensal bacteria help to prevent the overproduc-
topic for digestive health through the use of ingest- tion of pathogenic bacteria, which balances the skin,
CT1811_12_Form_BASF_Branded_fcx.indd 68 11/2/18 5:10 PM

Branded Content
leaving it healthy and providing an efficient barrier to Xanthan Gum), contains Chile’s “wild mint” leaves
keep dirt and bacteria out while keeping moisture in. that stimulate the skin’s natural defenses and
When there are fewer commensal bacteria present, provide clinically significant improvement to skin’s
this balance is disturbed, leading to an overproduction complexion, pore visibility and blotchy patches.
of pathogenic bacteria and causing the skin to go into • PatcH2O® (INCI: Water, Glycerin, Trehalose, Urea,
a state of dysbiosis. Specifically, the microbiome can Serine, Pentylene Glycol, Glyceryl Polyacrylate,
contribute to certain skin conditions such as inflam- Algin, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Pul-
mation, dry skin, redness and acne. Both behavioral lulan, Disodium Phosphate, Potassium Phosphate),
aspects, like personal hygiene, and external factors, is a film-forming molecular mesh that provides
like environmental influences, contribute to the overall immediate and long-lasting hydration.
microbiome of the skin. • Purisoft® (INCI: Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract,
BASF offers several solutions to address these Maltodextrin), is composed of Moringa seed
conditions through a variety of approaches. proteins traditionally used to purify river water for
Traditional approaches to address blemished skin drinking. These super seeds also act as a film-former
can include alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids, but they are and can prevent pollutants from adhering to skin.
known to be irritating. BASF offers gentler versions of
Lastly, probiotics and postbiotics are another approach:
these ingredients while maintaining their effectiveness:
• Relipidium® (INCI: Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein,
• Beta-Hydroxyde™ ACSD (INCI: Salicylic Acid,
Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol) is created
Senegal Acacia Gum)
through the fermentation of a yeast extract and
• AHCare™ L65 (INCI: Lactic Acid, Water,
an exclusive strain of Lactobaccillus plantarum. It
Arginine)
has been shown to stimulate the skin’s defenses,
• AHCare™ G60 (INCI: Glycolic Acid, Water,
rebalance skin microflora (clinically) as well as
Arginine).
significantly moisturize skin.
Boosting the skin’s defense systems and/or preserv-
ing its barrier is another method to help balance the For product samples, please log on to UL Prospector and search
for the above product names.
microbiome. Ingredients with these effects include:
* Note: A liquid version of Purisoft®
• Phytosoothe® (INCI: Brassica Campestris 1. https://commonfund.nih.gov/hmp/
Sterols, Cetearyl Alcohol), which is made up of 2. Montiel-Castro, AJ, et. al., Front. Integr. Neurosci., Oct. 2013
phytosterols from canola and acts as a vegetal 3. www.mintel.com
biomimetic, has demonstrated ability to protect
the barrier and microbiota.
• Betapur® (INCI: Water, Butylene Glycol,
CONTACT BASF
973-245-7638 ulprospector.com
Peumus Boldus Leaf Extract, Pentylene Glycol, BASF personal-care-na@basf.com carecreations.basf.com
CT1811_12_Form_BASF_Branded_fcx.indd 69 11/2/18 5:10 PM

Formulating | C&T ®
Skin Care Formulary

MOISTURE RESCUE D. Water (aqua) (and) Glycerin (and) Calcium Pantothenate (and)
Xanthan Gum (and) Urea (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Glucose
ECO-CONSCIOUS BODY CREAM (and) Magnesium Lactate (and) Potassium Chloride (and)
(AAK) Potassium Lactate (and) Magnesium Chloride (and)
Sodium Citrate (and) Citric Acid (and) Ethylhexylglycerin
This fresh gel-cream has a light texture and is designed (Ion-Moist Molecular Film, Lipotec USA, Inc.) 5.00
to soften the entire body. Instead of low-spreading Glycerin (and) Water (aqua) (and) Calendula Officinalis
mineral oil, it is formulated with our highly stable, Flower Extract (Actiphyte Calendula GL, Lipotec USA, Inc.) 1.00
rapeseed-based Lipex Bassol C. Easy to apply, this Fragrance (parfum) 0.10
balm is quickly absorbed by the skin to replenish E. Water (aqua) (and) Sodium Hydroxide (Sodio Hidroxido
moisture and deliver softness with no tacky feel; natural 20% P/P Puro, Quimivita S.A.) 0.20
ingredients (Chemically Processed Agro-Ingredients, 100.00
CPAI) = 95%. Procedure: Mix A until complete polymer hydration. Add B to A under mixing until
homogeneous and heat to 75°C. In a separate vessel, mix C until homogeneous
A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00% w/w and heat to 75°C. Add C to AB and homogenize with Ultra-Turrax homogenizer
Glycerin 7.00 (IKA) for 3 min at 10,000 rpm. Cool batch to 30°C with rotor while mixing. Add D
Lysolecithin (and) Sclerotium Gum (and) Xanthan Gum (and) to ABC one at a time. Mix until uniform and adjust speed as needed using rotor
Pullulan (Ecogel, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) 2.50 agitation. Neutralize with E to pH 5.0–5.5. Scrape the side of the vessel using a
B. Citric Acid 0.10 spatula and continue mixing with rotor until homogeneous; properties: appearance
Benzyl Alcohol 0.50 = opaque white cream; pH = 5.0–5.5; viscosity (mPa·s) = 3,000–4,000; recom-
Potassium Sorbate 0.15 mended packaging = opaque, airless; stability = passed four weeks at 5°C; RT,
40°C and 50°C; freeze/thaw cycles (-18°C/25°C).
Sodium Benzoate 0.20
Distarch Phosphate 3.00
C. Olus Oil (Lipex Bassol C, AAK) 7.00
Shea Butter Ethyl Esters (Lipex SheaLight, AAK) 6.00 LOVE YOUR HANDS BALM
Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil 3.00 (Lucas Meyer Cosmetics)
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate 2.00
D. Fragrance (parfum) 0.75 This is a minimalist formula with an ultra-unctuous,
Procedure: Premix A and mix vigorously. Add A to B. Prepare C. Heat AB and C melting and cooling texture. It has a non-greasy and
separately to 75°C. Merge AB with C and start mixing with medium speed. Mix non-tacky after feel with nourishing and exfoliating
continuously to heat ABC for ~25 min, to ensure hydration of the phospholipids. actions for soft skin.
Homogenize. Cool to 30°C while stirring. Add D to ABC. Homogenize.
A. Water (aqua) 77.30% w/w
Sodium Phytate (and) Water (aqua) (and) Alcohol
(Dermofeel PA-3, Dr. Straetmans Chemische Produkte
MILD MOISTURIZING GmbH) 0.10
FACIAL CREAM Glycerin (Glycerin, American International Chemical Inc.) 5.00
Chlorphenesin (Chlorphenesin, Universal Preserv-a-chem Inc.) 0.30
(Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.)
Phenoxyethanol (Phenoxyethanol, Azelis UK Life Sciences) 0.80
B. Sodium Acrylates Copolymer/Lecithin (Lecigel, Lucas
Gently delight skin with this mild, cushiony and
Meyer Cosmetics) 2.00
hydrating cream enriched with Ion-Moist molecular
C. Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter (Lipex 102, AAK) 5.00
film, to visibly enhance moisture retention with
optimum smoothness, and Actiphyte Calendula GL, Behenyl Alcohol (Lanette 22, BASF SE) 2.00
for anti-inflammatory and soothing benefits. The Isononyl Isononanoate 5.00
combination of Pemulen EZ-4U polymeric emulsifier Glyceryl Stearate Citrate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate
and naturally derived Glucate SS emulsifier, both (and) Hydrogenated Lecithin (Heliofeel, Lucas Meyer
ethoxylated-free, effectively stabilizes the emulsion at Cosmetics) 1.00
low use levels. Tocopherol (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
(Vitapherole E1000, VitaeNaturals) 0.20
A. Water (aqua) 64.13% w/w D. Fragrance (parfum) 0.30
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.15 E. Glycerin (and) Water (aqua) (and) Microcitrus Australasica
B. Glycerin 4.00 Fruit Extract (Lime Pearl AF, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) 1.00
Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin (euxyl PE 9010, 100.00
schulke) 0.43
Procedure: Separately heat A and C to 70°C. Add B to A under strong stirring to
C. Isopropyl Isostearate (Schercemol 318 Ester, Lubrizol develop gel. Add C to AB under maximum stirring and maintain stirring rate for
Advanced Materials, Inc.) 7.00 5 to 10 min to emulsify. Cool under medium stirring. Add D and E one at a time
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 7.00 below 40°C. Adjust pH if necessary.
Cyclopentasiloxane 4.50
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil 4.00
Behenyl Alcohol (Lanette 22, BASF SE) 2.00 Want more formulas?
Methylglucose Sesquistearate (Glucate SS Emulsifier,
Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) 0.34 Check out page DE1 of the November/December
Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E Acetate, BASF Corp.) 0.15 digital edition for the expanded formulary.
CT1811_12_SkinCare_Formulary_fcx.indd 70 11/5/18 10:05 AM

SKINCARE CREAM_FA
ITALY, WHERE
BEAUTY IS THE ART.
THE MOST BEAUTIFUL SKINCARE IS MADE IN ITALY.
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Advertiser Index | C&T ®
November/December 2018 | Volume 133, number 10
AAK Personal Care Colonial Chemical, Inc. Lucas Meyer Cosmetics

7 C3 3
lipid@aak.com www.colonialchem.com info@lucasmeyercosmetics.com
www.aakpersonalcare.com www.lucasmeyercosmetics.com
Grant Industries
1
Arista Industries, Inc. info@grantinc.com Mibelle AG Biochemistry
64 37
info@aristaindustries.com www.grantinc.com info@mibellebiochemistry.com
www.aristaindustries.com www.mibellebiochemistry.com
Ikeda Corp.
25
BASF info@ikeda-america.com Sabinsa Corp.
57 C4
yvonne.specht@basf.com www.ikeda-corp.co.jp info@sabinsa.com
www.carecreations.basf.com www.sabinsacosmetics.com
(p. 68–69) Italian Trade Agency
71
beautydeskusa@ice.it Vevy Europe SpA
33
Berjé, Inc. www.beautymadeinitaly.com info@vevy.com
5
berje@berjeinc.com www.vevy.com
www.berjeinc.com Lipotec, LLC
45
salesoffice@lipotec.com Wacker Chemie AG
11
Bio-Botanica, Inc. www.lipotec.com www.wacker.com
C2
www.bio-botanica.com
Lubrizol Advanced
9
Brookfield Engineering Materials, Inc.
56 www.lubrizol.com/personalcare
Labs, Inc./AMETEK
info@brookfieldengineering.com
www.brookfieldengineering.com
CT1811_12_Advertiser_Index_fcx.indd 72 11/5/18 10:33 AM

EXPANDED Skin Care Formulary
Continued from Page 70
WINTER COMFORT ECO-CONSCIOUS Procedure: In the main beaker, homogenize water and EDTA, start to heat to 75-
80°C. Add the rest of A in order and mix well between each addition. In a side
HAND CREAM beaker, prepare B and heat to 75-80°C. At 75-80°C, add B to A and mix well.
(AAK) Premix C at RT. At 60°C, add C to AB. At 25°C, add D to main vessel. Stop at
25°C; properties: appearance = light blue/green cream; pH = 5.4 – 5.9; viscos-
ity (D1) = 17,000–22,000 cps (Brookfield RVT/Spindle A/5 RPM/1 min /25°C).
Long, cold winters can be brutal on the skin, causing
dryness, roughness and discomfort. Formulated with a
rich, natural emollient base featuring Lipex SheaSoft, SOOTHING EYE BALM
this cream delivers softness rebalancing and acts like a
glove, sealing in moisture to rebalance and rehydrate the (Ashland Specialty Ingredients)
skin. It leaves even the driest hands looking and feeling
soothed, softened and restored; natural ingredients This relaxing eye balm has a pleasant application. The
(CPAI) = 97%. cream-gel helps the eye area feel relaxed and pampered
with a silky-smooth finish.
A. Xanthan Gum 0.50% w/w
Glycerin 5.00 A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00% w/w
B. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00 Tetrasodium EDTA 0.01
C. Citric Acid 0.10 B. Sodium Polyacrylate (Rapithix A-100, Ashland
Benzyl Alcohol 0.50 Specialty Ingredients) 1.80
Potassium Sorbate 0.15 C. Vegetable Oil (and) Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Sodium Benzoate 0.20 (and) Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax (Cegesoft VP,
Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate 0.75 BASF SE) 3.00
D. Glyceryl Stearate 1.00 Dimethiconol (and) Dimethicone (Wacker-Belsil DM 3096,
Stearic Acid (and) Palmitic Acid (Cutina FS 45, BASF SE) 2.00 Wacker Chemie AG) 10.00
Cetearyl Alcohol 3.50 D. Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer/Silica
Shea Butter Ethyl Esters (Lipex SheaLight, AAK) 7.00 (Dow Corning 9701 Cosmetic Powder, Dow Corning Corp.) 1.00
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter (Lipex SheaSoft, AAK) 11.00 E. Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (Optiphen, Ashland
C15-19 Alkane 3.00 Specialty Ingredients) 0.50
E. Zea Mays (Corn) Starch 3.50 F. Water (aqua) (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Hydrolyzed Yeast
Fragrance (parfum) 0.60 Protein (Chronogen YST, Ashland Specialty Ingredients) 1.00
Propanediol 5.00
Procedure: Blend A and add to B. Heat AB and C together, and separately heat D to
75°C. Combine ABCD and start mixing with medium speed. Homogenize. Cool Mica (and) Silica (and) Titanium Dioxide (Timiron Splendid
to 30°C while stirring. Add E to ABCD and mix well. Blue, Copper, Green, Gold, Red, Violet, Merck KGaA) 1.00
Procedure: Mix A at RT in main vessel until clear. At 25°C, sprinkle B into A and mix
for 10 min until homogeneous. At 25°C, prepare C in side beaker, mixing until
BLEMISH-SOOTHING homogeneous. Sprinkle D into C and mix well until homogeneous. At 25°C, add
CD to main vessel and mix until homogeneous. At 25°C, add E to main vessel
MOISTURIZER and mix until homogeneous. At 25°C, premix F, add to main vessel and mix. Stop
(Ashland Specialty Ingredients) when batch is homogeneous.
This formula helps to moisturize after skin treatments,

soothes irritated skin and limits the appearance of post- ANTI-HAIR GROWTH BODY LOTION
acne marks. (BASF)
A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00% w/w
Tetrasodium EDTA 0.10 This mild emulsion slows hair re-growth and reduces
PVM/MA Decadiene Crosspolymer (Stabileze QM, skin irritation after shaving or depilatory treatments.
Ashland Specialty Ingredients) 0.35 Subsequent hair removal treatments can thus be
Water (aqua)/Glycerin/Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid delayed, making it suitable for sensitive skin.
Copolymer/Phenoxyethanol (Lubrajel MS Free Hydrogel, A. Glycerin (and) Lauryl Glucoside (and) Polyglyceryl-2
Ashland Specialty Ingredients) 3.00 Dipolyhydroxystearate (Eumulgin VL75, BASF SE) 4.00% w/w
Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Ethylparaben Behenyl Alcohol (Lanette 22, BASF SE) 2.00
(and) Propylparaben (LiquaPar MEP, Ashland Specialty Ethylhexyl Palmitate 5.00
Ingredients) 1.00 Propylheptyl Caprylate (Cetiol Sensoft, BASF SE) 3.00
B. Glyceryl Stearate (and) Cetyl Alcohol (and) Stearyl Alcohol Passiflora Incarnata Seed Oil 3.00
(and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Palmitic Acid (and) Stearic Sodium Polyacrylate 0.80
Acid (Prolipid 151, Ashland Specialty Ingredients) 4.00 Dimethicone 1.00
Glyceryl Dilaurate (Emulsynt GDL, Ashland Specialty B. Water (aqua) 73.25
Ingredients) 2.00 Glycerin 5.00
Isocetyl Stearate (Ceraphyl 494, Ashland Specialty Chlorphenesin 0.20
Ingredients) 1.50 Water (aqua) (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Glycerin (and)
Isodecyl Neopentanoate (Ceraphyl SLK, Ashland Sorbic Acid (Elestab PB Free LS 9842, BASF SE) 1.00
Specialty Ingredients) 5.00 Xanthan Gum 0.25
C. Sodium Hydroxide 0.05 Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate 0.40
Water (aqua) 1.00 C. Water (aqua) (and) Pentylene Glycol (Pilisoft LS 9760,
D. Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates BASF SE) 1.00
(Vital ET, Ashland Specialty Ingredients) 3.00 Fragrance (parfum) 0.10
Propanediol (and) Water (aqua) (and) Bioflavonoids 100.00
(Elixiance, Ashland Specialty Ingredients) 1.00
CI 61570 (Unicert Green K7015-J, Sensient Cosmetic Procedure: Heat A to 75–80°C and mix until homogeneous. Heat B to 75–80°C and
Technologies) 1.00 add to A while stirring. Allow emulsion to cool, stirring to keep continual motion.
Avoid incorporation of air. If necessary, homogenize with a suitable dispersion
unit to approx. 55°C. Add C below 40°C with mixing. Stir while cooling until RT.
Vol. 133, No. 10 | November/December 2018 Cosmetics & Toiletries® | DE1
CT1811_12_SkinCare_Formulary_fcx.indd 73 11/9/18 2:14 PM

SUPERFRUIT BODY CREAM Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

(Carbopol Ultrez 21 Polymer, Lubrizol Advanced
(Bio-Botanica Inc.) Materials, Inc.) 0.50
A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.0% w/w Glycerin (and) Glyceryl Polyacrylate (Hispagel 200 NS,
Carbomer 0.6 BASF SE) 5.00
B. Tetrasodium EDTA 0.1 Water (aqua) (and) Poria Cocos Root Extract (and)
C. Emulsifying Wax NF 1.5 Phragmites Communis Extract (SyriCalm CLR (PC),
Cetyl Alcohol 2.0 CLR Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH) 3.00
Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil 3.3 Lactococcus Ferment Lysate (ProRenew Complex CLR,
D. Lycium Barbarum (Goji) Fruit Extract (and) Coffea Arabica CLR Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH) 3.00
(Coffee) Fruit Extract (and) Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract B. Water (aqua) 9.50
(and) Morinda Citrifolia Fruit Extract (and) Punica Granatum Lactose (and) Milk Protein (Modukine, CLR Chemisches
Extract (and) Garcinia Mangostana Fruit Extract (and) Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH) 0.50
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (and) Propanediol C. Sodium Hydroxide 0.20
(Fruitanical Superfruit Blend, Bio-Botanica Inc.) 3.0 100.00
Silybum Marianum Extract (and) Propanediol (Milk Thistle Procedure: Mix A and B separately and stir until completely hydrated. Add B to A
Extract, Bio-Botanica Inc.) 0.2 while stirring. Adjust pH value to 6.5 and stir until uniform.
Cucurbita Pepo (Pumpkin) Seed Extract (and) Propanediol
(Pumpkin Seed Extract , Bio-Botanica Inc.) 0.2
E. Preservatives 1.0 HYDRATING, LONG-WEARING
F. Fragrance (parfum) qs
G. Sodium Hydroxide qs MAKEUP PRIMER
(Floratech)
Procedure: Mix A. Add B to A with mixing and heat to 75°-80°C. Combine C
in a separate container and heat to 75°-80°C. Add C to AB. Mix well until Floraesters K-20W Jojoba is a botanically based
emulsified. Begin cooling with mixing to RT. At RT, add D in order with mix- emollient that enhances primer formulations by
ing. Add E and F with mixing. Add G qs to pH 5.25- 5.75. providing skin hydration and improving coverage and
longevity of makeup on the skin. This lightweight, non-
greasy primer glides on with a silky feel and softens the
ANTI-INFLAMMATORY appearance of imperfections.
CREAM GEL FOR OILY SKIN A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00% w/w
(CLR Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH) Hydroxyethylcellulose (Natrosol 250 HHR, Aqualon /
Hercules) 0.75
An anti-inflammatory cream gel for oily skin. B. Preservatives qs
C. Water (aqua) 64.00
A. Water (aqua) 83.26% w/w EDTA (Versene 100, NA2, The Dow Chemical Company) 0.10
Sodium Polyacrylate 1.60 D. Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Propanediol 3.00 (Pemulen TR-1 Polymer, Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) 0.25
B. Linoleic Acid (Vitamin F Forte, CLR Chemisches E. Glycerin 1.00
Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH) 3.00 Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters (and) Water (aqua) (Floraesters
Tocopherol 0.02 K-20W Jojoba, Floratech) 1.00
C. Water (aqua) (and) Taraktogenos Kurzii Seed Oil (and) Nigella Water (aqua) 5.00
Sativa Seed Oil (and) Leptospermum Scoparium Oil (and) F. Aminomethylpropanol (AMP-Ultra PC 2000, Dow Corning
Potassium Lauroyl Wheat Amino Acids (and) Palm Glycerides Corp.) qs
(and) Capryloyl Glycine (and) Magnolia Grandiflora Bark Water (aqua) (and) Citric Acid (Citric Acid 30%, Interchimie) qs
Extract (Cutipure CLR, CLR Chemisches Laboratorium G. Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (and) Titanium Dioxide (Chione
Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH) 3.00 Snowfall White S130D, BASF Corporation) 2.00
Water (aqua) (and) Lactose (and) Milk Protein (and) Bifida
Ferment Lysate (ProBioBalance CLR NP, CLR Chemisches Procedure: Mix A in a vessel with rapid propeller agitation at RT. Continue mixing
until well-dispersed and begin heating to 40-45°C. Continue mixing at 40-45°C
Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH) 5.00
until fully hydrated and gel is formed. Begin cooling to RT. Add B to A with rapid
Benzyl Alcohol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Benzoic Acid
to moderate propeller agitation at RT. In the main vessel, mix C using moderate
(Verstatil BOB, Dr. Straetmans Chemische Produkte GmbH) 0.80
propeller agitation at RT until completely dissolved. Add D to C with rapid propeller
D. Water (aqua) qs agitation at RT. Continue mixing until fully hydrated. Add Phase AB to CD with
Sodium Hydroxide qs rapid propeller agitation. Continue mixing with rapid propeller agitation at RT until
Procedure: Mix A and stir until completely dispersed. Add B under stirring. Add C one uniform. In separate vessel, mix E at RT. Add E to batch with moderate propeller
after the other under stirring. Adjust pH value to 6.0-6.5 with D. agitation. Add aminomethylpropanol of F to batch to neutralize crosspolymer. Mix
until uniform. Add citric acid/water of F to reach a pH of 5-6. Continue mixing
until uniform. Add G to batch with moderate propeller agitation at RT. Make sure
SKIN RENEWAL TREATMENT pigment is well-dispersed without any clumps.
(CLR Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH)
Featuring ProRenew Complex CLR, SyriCalm CLR (PC) Want more formulas?
and Modukine.
Visit our Cosmetics & Toiletries Bench Reference.
A. Water (aqua) 77.50% w/w
www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com/cbr
Benzyl Alcohol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Benzoic Acid
(Verstatil BOB, Dr. Straetmans Chemische Produkte GmbH) 0.80
DE2 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 133, No. 10 | November/December 2018

SOOTHING ANTIPERSPIRANT CITY LIGHTS CARE

FOR SENSITIVE SKIN (The Hallstar Company)
(Floratech) This formula combines oil-derived ingredients with
Pomegranate Oléoactif and Biochemica Matcha Green Tea
This moisturizing antiperspirant reduces irritation and Butter, giving skin a sophisticated, moisture-rich glow. Blue
sensitivity caused by typical antiperspirants. Floraesters Oléoactif protects cells from external pollutants.
K-100 Jojoba and Floraesters 60 provide natural jojoba
emolliency, which hydrates and soothes skin. Floraesters
Butylene Glycol 3.00
and Floramac 10 are gentle ingredients, making them an
Glycerin 2.00
ideal choice for delicate underarm skin. Betaine 1.00
A. Stearyl Alcohol 17.00% w/w Allantoin 0.20
Hydrogenated Castor Oil 4.00 Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate 0.30
Jojoba Esters (Floraesters 60, Floratech) 0.50 Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Ethylparaben
Ethyl Macadamiate (Floramac 10, Floratech) 1.50 (and) Propylparaben (and) Butylparaben (euxyl K 340,
B. Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters (and) Jojoba Esters (and) Water schulke) qs
(aqua) (Floraesters K-100 Jojoba, Floratech) 1.00 Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract (and) Water (aqua)
Lactic Acid (Purac HiPure 90, Purac) 0.10 (Eurol BT, The Hallstar Company) 0.25
C. Cyclopentasiloxane 20.00 Ethylhexyl Olivate (and) Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
D. Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate (Dry-Flo PC, AkzoNobel, (and) Polyglyceryl-4 Olivate (Olivem 2020, The Hallstar
Personal Care) 3.00 Company) 1.50
Talc (Supra H, Luzenac Group) 0.50 B. Water (aqua) 25.00
Aluminum Zirconium Tetrachlorohydrate (Reach AZP-908, C. Cetearyl Olivate (and) Sorbitan Olivate (Olivem 1000,
Elementis Specialties) 22.00 The Hallstar Company) 1.00
E. Cyclopentasiloxane qs Ethylhexyl Olivate (Sensolene, The Hallstar Company) 0.50
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Stearalkonium Hectorite (and) Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil (and)
Propylene Carbonate (Bentone Gel TN V, Elementis PLC) 1.00 Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil (and) Camellia Sinensis Leaf
F. Fragrance (parfum) qs Powder (Biochemica Matcha Green Tea Butter,
Procedure: Combine A in a vessel with heat. Start mixing with propeller agitation at The Hallstar Company) 0.50
60-65°C. Continue heating to 70-80°C. In a separate vessel, mix B at RT by stir- D. Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil (and) Punica
ring. Once B becomes a clear liquid, add C to B at RT. Begin heating to 70-80°C. Granatum Extract (and) Punica Granatum Flower Extract
Add BC to A at 70-80°C with medium propeller agitation. When mixture becomes (Pomegranate Oléoactif, The Hallstar Company) 1.00
uniform, begin cooling to 65-70°C. Add D (except for aluminum zirconium Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate
tetrachlorohydrate) to ABC in the order listed with medium propeller agitation (and) Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract (Blue Oléoactif, The Hallstar
at 65-70°C; the aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate should be added at Company) 1.00
65°C. In a separate vessel, combine E gradually to avoid making clumps, at RT Tocopherol Acetate 0.50
with medium propeller agitation. When mixture becomes uniform, add F. When Tocopherol (Biochemica Vitamin E Natural, The Hallstar
EF becomes uniform, begin heating to 60-65°C. Add EF to ABCD with medium Company) 0.10
propeller agitation at 60-65°C. Transfer the mixture into a container at 55-60°C. E. Cyclopentasiloxane 2.50
Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethiconol (Silsoft 1215 HV,
Momentive Performance Materials Inc.) 2.00
COCONUT BODY BUTTER Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer
(9041 Silicone Elastomer Blend, Dow Corning Corp.) 4.00
(Grant Industries) F. Mica (and) Silica (and) Titanium Dioxide (Timiron Splendid Blue,
A. Water (aqua) 60.1% w/w Copper, Green, Gold, Red, Violet, Merck KGaA) 0.25
Carbomer (Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer, Lubrizol) 0.3 Calcium Aluminum Borosilicate (and) Silica (and) Titanium
Triethanolamine 0.3 Dioxide (and) Tin Oxide (Ronastar Blue Sparks, EMD
Steareth-2 (Procol SA-2, Protameen Chemicals) 1.0 Chemicals Inc.-RONA Cosmetic Business Unit) 0.15
B. Octyl Palmitate (Protachem OP, Protameen Chemicals) 12.0 Procedure: Mix A at 3,000 rpm for 3 min using a suitable dispersion unit (Silverson,
Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil 4.0 Ultra Turrax). Heat B and C separately to 75-80°C. Add C to B while stirring at
Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil 2.0 3,000 rpm for 3 min. Cool BC to 40°C under gentle stirring (50-100 rpm). Prepare
Polysorbate 60 (Protasorb S-20 and S-20-K, Protameen D and E separately. Add BC, D and E to A under stirring for 3 min. Add F under
Chemicals) 2.0 stirring; properties (25°C): appearance = white cream; viscosity (10 rpm, Brk,
Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate (Lipomulse 165, RVDV-E, T-B, after 24 hr at RT; mPa·s) = 15,000–25,000; pH = 6.5–7.0
Vantage Specialty Ingredients) 2.0
Cetearyl Alcohol 3.0
Polymethylsilsesquioxane (Gransil PSQ, Grant Industries Inc.) 2.0 HYDRO SKIN GEL
Stearoxymethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer 5.0
Bis-Stearyl Dimethicone (Gransil VX-418, Grant (The Hallstar Company)
Industries Inc.) 5.0
C. Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin (euxyl PE 9010, This simple formulation contains Olivem 2020, which
schulke) 1.0 provides a cushioning effect that massages the skin
Fragrance (parfum) 0.3 during application. The oil component of Olivem 2020
creates an emulsion with a rich texture and a light, non-
Procedure: Combine A in main kettle and heat to 60-70°C with mixing until all solids are
sticky touch.
dissolved. Combine B in a side kettle and heat to 70-75°C with mixing until all solids
are dissolved. Add B into A while homogenizing and continue to mix until uniform. A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.0% w/w
Start cooling with side sweep. Add C in order at 40°C and continue to cool until RT. Ethylhexyl Olivate (and) Sodium Acrylates Copolymer (and)
Polyglyceryl-4 Olivate (Olivem 2020, The Hallstar Company) 5.0
Glycerin 1.0

Preservatives qs B. Xanthan Gum (and) Lecithin (and) Sclerotium Gum (and)

Procedure: Prepare A. Mix for 2 hr at 450 rpm; properties (25°C): appearance = Pullulan (Siligel, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) 1.50
white gel emulsion; viscosity (10 rpm, Brk, RVDV-E, T-B, after 24 hr at RT; mPa·s) C. Hydrogenated Lecithin (and) C12-16 Alcohols (and)
= 60,000–80,000; pH = 6.5–7.0 Palmitic Acid (Biophilic H, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) 4.00
D. Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil 4.00
Diisostearyl Malate (Schercemol DISM Ester, Lubrizol
DIAPER LOTION PROTECTIVE SPRAY Advanced Materials, Inc.) 4.00
Shorea Stenoptera Butter (Lipex 106, AAK) 6.00
(Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) Behenyl Alcohol (Lanette 22, BASF SE) 2.00
Diisopropyl Adipate (Schercemol DIA Ester, Lubrizol
This mild and PEG-free sprayable diaper lotion Advanced Materials, Inc.) 6.00
is designed for babies. Pemulen EZ-4U polymeric Stearyl Heptanoate (and) Stearyl Caprylate (Dub Solid,
emulsifier is combined with Glucate DO emulsifier, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) 2.00
a vegetable-derived ingredient, to enable efficient Tocopherol (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed
emulsion stabilization at pH 5.0-5.8. Suspension of Oil (Vitapherole E1000, VitaeNaturals) 0.10
tapioca starch and Acticel 12 microcrystalline cellulose E. Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (Verstatil PC,
powder is achieved in a simple cold process. Ion-Moist Dr. Straetmans Chemische Produkte GmbH) 1.10
molecular film provides an immediate and long-lasting F. Butylene Glycol (and) Alteromonas Ferment Extract
moisturizing effect thanks to its natural moisturizing (and) Water (aqua) (Exo-H, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) 1.00
factor ingredients. Actiphyte Calendula GL in included Water (aqua) (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Dextran (and)
for anti-inflammatory and soothing benefits. Schercemol Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8 (Neutrazen, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) 1.00
DISD ester imparts a rich feel and substantivity for Water (aqua) (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Alteromonas
durable protection of the skin without too much tack. Ferment Extract (Abyssine 657, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) 1.00
Fragrance (parfum) 0.20
A. Water (aqua) 64.60% w/w 100.00
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.20
Procedure: Prepare A. Sprinkle B into A under high stirring during 5 min (rotor
B. Glycerin 3.00 stator homogenizer). Heat AB and D separately until 75-80°C. Add C into AB
Phenylpropanol (and) Propanediol (and) Caprylyl Glycol under medium stirring for 20 min. Add D to batch under high stirring (rotor sta-
(and) Tocopherol (Sensiva PA 40, schulke) 0.80 tor homogenizer) for 3 min to emulsify. Cool the formula under slow stirring until
C. Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil 6.00 40°C. Add E under slow stirring. Add F, one by one, under slow stirring until the
Diisostearyl Dimer Dilinoleate (Schercemol DISD Ester, product is homogeneous.
Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) 2.00
Methylglucose Dioleate (Glucate DO Emulsifier, Lubrizol
Advanced Materials, Inc.) 1.00 PROTECTING HYDRO BALM
Tocopherol 0.50
D. Tapioca Starch 11.00 (Mibelle Biochemistry)
Water (aqua) (and) Glycerin (and) Calcium Pantothenate A. Cetearyl Alcohol 1.50% w/w
(and) Xanthan Gum (and) Urea (and) Caprylyl Glycol Cetearyl Glucoside 1.50
(and) Glucose (and) Magnesium Lactate (and) Potassium Glyceryl Stearate 1.00
Chloride (and) Potassium Lactate (and) Magnesium PEG-100 Stearate 1.00
Chloride (and) Sodium Citrate (and) Citric Acid (and) Pentaerythrityl Stearate 0.90
Ethylhexylglycerin (Ion-Moist Molecular Film, Lipotec USA, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter 2.00
Inc.) 5.00 Octyldodecanol 3.00
Microcrystalline Cellulose 4.00 Acacia Decurrens/Jojoba/Sunflower Seed Wax Polyglyceryl-3
Glycerin (and) Water (aqua) (and) Calendula Officinalis Esters 2.00
Flower Extract (Actiphyte Calendula GL, Lipotec USA, Inc.) 1.00 BHT 0.02
Panthenol 0.55 B. Water (aqua) 64.39
Fragrance (parfum) 0.05 Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer (Carbopol
E. Water (aqua) (and) Sodium Hydroxide (Sodio Hidroxido Ultrez 21 Polymer , Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) 0.25
20% P/P Puro, Quimivita S.A.) 0.30 Disodium EDTA 0.10
100.00 Glycerin 3.00
Procedure: Mix A until complete polymer hydration. Add B to A and mix well. In a Sorbitol 1.50
separate vessel, mix C until uniform. Add C to AB and homogenize with Ultra- Sodium Polyacrylate 0.40
Turrax homogenizer (IKA) for 2 min at 6,000 rpm. Below 30°C, add D one at a C. Sodium Hydroxide 0.24
time to ABC and mix well. Neutralize with E to pH 5–5.5. Scrape the side of the Phenoxyethanol 0.80
vessel using a spatula and continue mixing with rotor until homogeneous. Adjust Cyclopentasiloxane 1.00
speed as needed using rotor agitation; properties: appearance = opaque off-white D. Water (aqua) 3.60
lotion; pH = 5.0–5.8; viscosity (mPa·s)** 2,000–4,000; recommended packaging Pentylene Glycol 1.00
= opaque spray; stability = passed 4 weeks at 5°C, RT, 40°C and 50°C; 5 freeze/ Chlorphenesin 0.20
thaw cycles (-18°C/25°C). E. Water (aqua) 4.00
Isomalt (and) Lecithin (and) Sodium Benzoate (and) Water
(aqua) (and) Rhododendron Ferrugineum Leaf Cell Culture
S.O.S. RESCUE CREAM Extract (and) Lactic Acid (PhytoCellTec Alp Rose, Mibelle
(Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) Biochemistry) 1.00
F. Sodium CarboxyMethylbeta Glucan 0.20
This formula is specially designed for sensitive Fragrance (parfum) 0.20
skin, imparting a second-skin effect and providing Cyclomethicone 0.20
rich texture. Opuntia Ficus Indica Stem Extract (and) Glycerin (and)
Phenoxyethanol (and) Water (aqua) (AquaCacteen,
A. Water (aqua) 66.00% w/w Mibelle Biochemistry) 5.00
Sodium Phytate (and) Water (aqua) (and) Alcohol (Dermofeel G. Sodium Hydroxide qs
PA-3, Dr. Straetmans Chemische Produkte GmbH) 0.10

Procedure: Mix A and heat to 75°C. Hydrate crosspolymer in water of B CERAMIDE-INDUCING

without stirring for 15 min. Add other components of B under strong agita-
tion and heat to 75°C. At 75°C, pour A into B under strong agitation and TRANSPARENT GEL
homogenize to homogeneity. At 50°C, add C individually to batch. Mix D (Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd.)
and add at 45°C. Disperse E. Add E to batch below 40°C. At 35°C, add F
individually to batch. Adjust pH to 5.9 if necessary using 32% G. This formulation contains Amitose 3LGA (INCI:
3-Laurylglyceryl Ascorbate), which activates the
synthesis of ceramide, one of elements of skin barrier
GEL2OIL POST-WASH TREATMENT functioning. Amitose 3LGA also increases glutathione,
(schulke) known for its antioxidative benefits, reinforcing the skin
barrier function by bringing out skin’s essential power.
Disodium EDTA 0.10 A. Carbomer 1.00% w/w
Carbomer 0.80 Water (aqua) qs to 100.00
Sodium Hydroxide 0.80 B. Potassium Hydroxide qs
B. VP/Methacrylamide/Vinyl Imidazole Copolymer (Luviset C. Glycerin 3.00
Clear, BASF SE) 2.00 Butylene Glycol 3.00
Glycerin 3.00 Phenoxyethanol 0.45
Butylene Glycol (and) Litchi Chinensis Extract (Litchiderm Ethylhexylglycerin 0.05
LS 9704 (Skin), BASF SE) 0.10 D. Alcohol 5.00
C. PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil (Eumulgin CO 40, Citric Acid qs
BASF SE) 3.00 Sodium Citrate qs
Coco-Caprylate (Cetiol C 5, BASF SE) 1.00 Water (aqua) 10.00
Fragrance (parfum) 0.40 E. Ceteth-40 0.20
D. Preservatives qs F. 3-Laurylglyceryl Acorbate (Amitose 3LGA, Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd.) 1.00
Procedure: To prepare A, add carbomer to water and mix until homogeneous. Neu- Procedure: Add B to A and adjust to pH 4.5. Add C to AB and stir. Add D (adjusting
tralize with sodium hydroxide solution. Add B, one at a time, ensuring homogeneity to pH 4.5) to ABC and stir. Add E-F to ABCD and stir until uniformly dispersed.
after each addition. Premix C and add to AB. Adjust pH to 5.5, if needed. Add D
and continue mixing slowly; properties: pH value = 5.25 – 5.75.
LONG-LASTING MOISTURIZING
NATURAL TINTED BLEMISH CLEANSING GEL
(Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd.)
BALM MOISTURIZING CREAM
(O/W) WITH SPF 20, COLD PROCESSED This formulation with Amitose R gives a long-lasting
(schulke) moisturizing effect to skin, even after rinse off and towel
drying. This is because Amitose R strongly adsorbs
A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00% w/w into skin thanks to its guanidino group, making skin
Glycerin (Pricerine 9091, Croda) 3.00 moisturized.
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (Veegum Ultra,
Vanderbilt Minerals LLC) 1.00 A. Sodium Lauroyl Hydrolyzed Silk (and) Water (aqua) (Promois
Xanthan Gum (Keltrol CG-SFT, CP Kelco) 0.50 EFLS, EFLS-F (Trade Name, Seiwa Kasei Co. Ltd.) 5.00% w/w
B. Glycerin (and) Globularia Cordifolia Callus Culture Ethylhexylglycerin 0.50
Extract (Resistem, Sederma) 2.00 Glycerin 20.00
Water (aqua) (and) Glycerin (and) Chenopodium PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate 5.00
Quinoa Seed Extract (Crodarom Black Quinoa, Croda) 1.00 B. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride qs to 100.00
C. Titanium Dioxide (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride C. Dihydroxypropyl Arginine HCl (Amitose R, Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd.) 1.00
(and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Stearic Acid Procedure: Heat A and B separately to 80°C. Check the surface and if there are
(and) Alumina (Solaveil XT-300, Croda) 15.00 no oil droplets, add B to A in small increments and stir. Cool to 40°C. Add C to
Sorbitan Laurate (Span 20, Croda) 3.04 AB and stir.
Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate/Succinate (Natragem E145, Croda) 2.46
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (Crodamol GTCC, Croda) 7.00
Isostearyl Isostearate (Crodamol ISIS, Croda) 3.00
Squalane (Pripure 3759, Croda) 3.00
Fragrance (parfum) 0.10
D. CI 77492 (and) Jojoba Esters (BYO-NJE3, Aston
Chemicals Ltd.) 0.96
CI 77491 (and) Jojoba Esters (BRO-NJE2, Aston
CI 77499 (and) Jojoba Esters (BBO-NJE2, Aston
E. Lactic Acid (Purac HiPure 90, Purac) qs
Preservatives qs
Procedure: Prepare A by stirring water with a propeller to create a vortex. Premix re-
maining ingredients and add to water. Once fully hydrated, add B to A. Separately
combine C and add to the bulk with fast stirring. Homogenize at 10,000 rpm for
1 min/100 g. Pre-grind D and add to bulk; continue homogenizing until color is
fully dispersed. Add lactic acid from E, adjust to pH 5.0-5.5, then add preserva-
tives; properties: pH value = approx. 5.5; viscosity = 5,700 cP ± 10% (Brookfield
DV-I Spdl 91, rpm 5, 25°C).

Research | C&T ®
KEY POINTS
How Touch
Unlocks
• Properly targeted physical contact can
enhance the efficacy and well-being
benefits of skin care.
• Advances in research techniques are, for

the first time, providing evidence of the
effects of touch on the whole body.
Skin Care’s
Power
*
*
Adapted with permission from the Global Cosmetic Industry October
2018 edition; note that a version of this article was presented during the
6th Anti-Ageing Skin Care Conference in London, held in June 2018.
CT1811_12_Research_Steventon_DE_fcx.indd 54 11/5/18 10:54 AM

Katerina Steventon, Ph.D.
FaceWorkshops, LLC, Yorkshire, UK
VIDEO
The Power of Touch in
s
Editor's note: The recent popularity of facial
yoga (see sidebar), jade rolling, gua sha facial
Skin Care
lifting tools, Ayurvedic Kansa wands, and J- and
K-beauty facial massage techniques has shown
that the power of touch is front-and-center in
consumers’ minds. But how does it enhance the
efficacy and emotional benefits of skin care? Here,
Katerina Steventon, Ph.D., takes a closer look.
T ouch is approached
differently among various
cultures, and a diverse
array of massage tech-
niques delivers a different
quality of contact and
skin-feel to the recipient, ultimately providing
the brain with relaxation or refreshment. Now,
advanced research techniques, e.g., electroen-
cephalography (EEG) and functional
magnetic resonance imaging
(fMRI), can detect
brain wave patterns and different brain area
activation, for the first time providing evidence
of the effects of touch on the whole body.
Boosting Well-being and the

Sensory Experience
My practice promotes touch in skin care
applications to enhance the sensory aspects
of new products and their impact on
changes in
consumer well-being. However, one size no
longer fits all. Application techniques can
only boost the efficacy of daily cleansing
and moisturizing if they are targeted to
the appropriate markets and ethnicities,
and reflect cultural paradigms. In each
and every case, expanding the sensory
experience of product
application should be
Reproduction in English or any other language of all
Vol. 133, No. 10 | November/December 2018

or part of this article is strictly prohibited.
© 2018 Allured Business Media. Cosmetics & Toiletries® | DE7
CT1811_12_Research_Steventon_DE_fcx.indd 55 11/9/18 2:03 PM

How Touch Unlocks Skin Care's Power
underpinned by understanding
the biology of skin touch and the
skin properties of the targeted
group including the impact on
well-being and self-esteem.
How Touch
Enhances Skin
Care: Physical and
Emotional Results
Skin is the largest sensory
organ, acting as a protective
barrier between internal and
external worlds. In addition to
safeguarding human health by
mechanisms such as repairing
the stratum corneum to prevent
loss of hydration, or producing
melanin to prevent inflammation
due to UV exposure, the skin is
also a visible emotional envelope.
In fact, ongoing research has
shown that skin senses external
information in the same way
the brain does; it can detect the
strength of sound, color and
light.1
FACIAL YOGA COULD HELP WRINKLES NAMASTE AWAY Many believe the health and
well-being of the body starts
with skin barrier integrity, which
therefore intrinsically links
— Audrey Latimer, Assistant Editor, Global Cosmetic Industry
both physical and emotional
requirements. Touch can satisfy
Cleanser, toner, exfoliator, moisturizer and ... yoga? As reported by Mintela, a recent both needs by boosting skin care
studyb from Northwestern University suggests, “Regular facial exercises can liven up the product efficacy and generating
daily skin care experience while creating a healthier- and younger-looking appearance." a wave of positive emotions
Benefits are said to include the reduction of crow’s feet and fine lines. to make people look and feel
The idea of adding physical actions, or a “firm pat,” to skin care routines has been well. As a result, application
popular with Asian women for some time, as it believed to enhance the absorption of techniques for skin care should
ingredients into the skin. Mintel's analysis suggests, “Combining these two routines into be designed to:
a fresh, new experience [could] recharge both the skin and mind and ultimately enhance
the skin care experience.” • Increase the delivery of active
The lead author on study, Murad Alam, M.D., vice chair and professor of dermatology at ingredients;
the Northwestern University Feinberg School of Medicine and a Northwestern Medicine • Enhance the function of
dermatologist, explained, “Now there is some evidence that facial exercises may improve cleansers/exfoliants and
facial appearance and reduce some visible signs of aging. The exercises enlarge and moisturizers, with short
strengthen the facial muscles, so the face becomes firmer and more toned and shaped massage techniques tailored
like a younger face.” to specific facial areas; this,
in turn, increases blood flow,
a
www.mintel.com/blog/ (May 10, 2018) soothes the epidermis and
b
https://news.northwestern.edu/stories/2018/ (Jan 3, 2018) drains the lymph to optimize
skin's condition;

• Alleviate signs of aging—e.g., sagging, loss intended type and duration of massage or touch
of dermal volume, lines and wrinkles—via techniques. Also remember that touch can only
deeper mechanical stimulation; enhance efficacy if the skin barrier's integrity
• Release well-being hormones such as and product safety are respected.
endorphins to improve mental health; and Finally, marketers must employ imagery and
• Provide a degree of touch attuned to the designs that create a deeper appreciation of
specific skin conditions and types, ages and the product. Critically, the product application
the culture(s) targeted.2 technique description should use words that
constantly link back the intended skin sensation.
3 Steps to Integrate
Touch in Skin Care References
1. https://news.ubc.ca/2009/11/26/
1. Consider skin conditions tactile-input-affects-what-we-hear/
2. R Voegeli et al, Facial color mapping of stratum corneum
The design and modality of each new hydration of different ethnic groups and the effect of a
technique should consider the non-invasive moisturizer, IFSCC Conference, Zurich (2015)
physiological parameters of skin; i.e., hydration,
transepidermal water loss (TEWL), texture and
sebum levels. Touch techniques for especially
C&T Sponsored Webcast Videos
oily, combination and sensitive skin require
Find current and upcoming webcasts at
careful design.
www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
In addition, consider that consumers often
give highly subjective assessments, e.g., of
their skin's oiliness that do not correlate with
objective sebum level measurements. Further,
while many believe oily skin to be more resilient,
the skin barrier can be challenged by its own
sebum, as implicated in acne and sensitive skin.
2. Understand emotional effects

The physical application of skin care products
creates a connection with consumers through
touch, which induces multifaceted neural,
hormonal, muscular and mental changes in
the user/recipient. Since the skin and brain are
connected through integrated senses, touch
creates a powerful feel-good, hedonistic effect.
Therefore, even gentle touch employed during
daily skin care routines makes people feel better.
3. Use a multisensory approach to

formulation and communicate benefits
Touch is much more emotionally colored
and subjective than other senses. Therefore, the
feeling of touch is difficult to express. As a result,
Innovation
formulators and marketers must appreciate the
consumer’s state of mind when creating skin care
products—including the need for an olfactory
experience to deliver a scent that precedes touch
to forge a more complete experience.
In addition, evidence-based routines must
that Drives Brands
Business insights, data and news that empowers beauty and
leverage product formats that support the personal care executives to anticipate the next trend.
www.GCImagazine.com/BEAUTY

Parabens Are Safe
Paraben Persistence?
The Expert Panel also discussed
concerns about the bioaccumulation
potential of parabens, noting that
as lipid-soluble chemicals, parabens
may theoretically distribute to tissues
despite metabolism. Recent studies
using sensitive analytical methods
have demonstrated the presence of
parabens in various human tissues.
However, the data is equivocal regard-
ing the build-up in such tissues over a
lifetime; and when applied to human
skin, parabens are metabolized to
4-hydroxybenzoic acid—which is
considered to be safe under typical use
Under a hazard approach, even water can be irrationally deemed a hazard; under a conditions. Additionally, and impor-
risk-based approach, it clearly causes no harm under appropriate conditions of use.
tantly, the available evidence suggests
Continued from Page 19
no causal link between paraben
exposure and diseases or other adverse health
conditions.
Although paraben exposures are attributed
Risk and Dose to foods, medicines and other sources, in addi-
Despite common misperceptions about tion to cosmetic products, refined aggregate
parabens, these ingredients have a long track exposure models suggest that cosmetic product
record of safety in a multitude of product use is a major source of paraben exposure,
types, including cosmetic products, foods and topically. However, the vast quantity of biomon-
medicines. Lest we forget Paracelsus’ famous itoring data indicate that systemic exposure to
remark, “It is only the dose which makes a these ingredients under conditions of cosmetic
thing poison,” it is important to remember that use is very low.5, 6
merely classifying an ingredient as a hazard
or not (i.e., “toxic” or not) is counterproduc- Intimate Applications
tive and borderline disingenuous. Instead, The Expert Panel discussed the safety
a rational, science-based approach to safety of parabens in vaginally applied cosmetic
must include an assessment of risk, including products as well. One published reference was
contributing factors such as concentration of submitted for review with the assertion that
use, route of exposure and duration. these ingredients cause irreparable damage to
Under a hazard approach, even water and sperm and may preclude fertilization in users.7
other chemicals essential to life can be irra- However, of the multiple endpoints asserted
tionally deemed hazards, since under certain in the reference, each was either constructed
conditions—e.g., consuming > 30 gallons of around chosen/designed assays that could not
water per day—these moieties could theoreti- unequivocally support such assertions, and/
cally cause harm. Under a much more rational, or the assay results therein demonstrated no
risk-based approach, however, it is quite clear significant effects.
that these chemicals are essential and cause An additional reference was submitted with
no harm to human health under appropriate an assertion that parabens may increase the
conditions of use; e.g., consuming eight glasses chances of developing a vaginal yeast infection.8
of water per day. However, the cell culture studies performed
Similarly, in the context of real-life use, therein were dosed with extremely high con-
paraben exposure is considered to be within centrations, as compared with cosmetic use:
safe margins. Indeed, the Expert Panel takes i.e., 15-25% preservative levels in the described
this real-life, risk-based approach to assess studies vs a reported maximum use concentra-
cosmetic ingredient safety. tion of 0.5% in cosmetics.
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Parabens Are Safe
While the Expert Panel requested these The main emphasis of the Expert Panel’s
studies be included in the CIR report, its deliberations on the draft assessment report
discussion thereof classified these studies as consisted of extensive revisions to better
illustrations of potential general hazards that identify and explain the rationale for the values
fail to demonstrate risks relevant to cosmetic utilized in conducting the risk assessment. The
safety in the context of concentration of use. panel also requested that the MOS be re-calcu-
Even at the highest reported concentration lated, weighing the different use concentrations
of use—and under an unrealistic estimate and exposures of butylparaben in various
that daily consumed personal care products cosmetic product categories.9, 10 These revisions
all contain parabens and the customer uses will be reflected in the next iteration of the
every product in all cosmetic categories—the assessment report.
conservative margin of safety (MOS) for these
preservative ingredients is protective. Addition- Last Call on Parabens
ally, evaluations based on the aforementioned The finalization of this safety assess-
biomonitoring data (human biological fluid ment will not occur until the Expert Panel
monitoring and physiological kinetic models) sees this report again, with all the new data
strongly support this conclusion. incorporated, including but not limited to that
associated with the above issues. This means
interested parties still have time to submit
supportive, relevant data to inform the Expert
Panel’s final decision. It is expected that this
report will return to the Expert Panel table at
the April 2019 meeting.
References
1. Cir-safety.org/supplementaldoc/cir-procedures (Accessed
Oct 23, 2018)
2. FA Andersen, ed, Final report on the safety assessment of
isobutylparaben and isopropylparaben, J Am Coll Toxicol
14(5) 364-372 (1995)
3. FA Andersen, ed, Final amended report on the safety
assessment of methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylpara-
ben, isopropylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben, and
benzylparaben as used in cosmetic products, Int J Toxicol
27 (suppl 4) 1-82 (2008)
4. RL Elder, ed, Final report on the safety assessment of meth-
ylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben and butylparaben,
J Am Coll Toxicol 3(5) 147-209 (1984)
5. SA Csiszar et al, Stochastic modeling of near-field exposure
to parabens in personal care products, J Expo Sci Environ
Epidemiol 27(2) 152-159 (2017)
6. Centers for Disesae Control and Prevention, Fourth National
Report on Human Exposure to Environmental Chemicals,
Updated Tables, January 2017, in National Health and Nutri-
tion Examination Survey 1-656 (2017)
7. SVAC Samarasinghe et al, Parabens generate reactive
oxygen species in human spermatozoa, Andrology 6(4)
532-541 (2018)
8. RD Mundy and B Cormack, Expression of Candida glabrata
adhesins after exposure to chemical preservatives, J Infect
Dis 199 (12) 1891-1898 (2009)
9. CE Cowan-Ellsberry and SH Robison, Refining aggregate
exposure: Example using parabens, Regul Toxicol Pharma-
col 55(3) 321-9 (2009)
10. http://ec.europa.eu/health/scientific_committees/con-
sumer_safety/docs/sccs_o_190.pdf (Accessed on Oct 23,
2018)
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Nov/Dec 2018 | Volume 133, number 10

6 Editor’s Note: Captivating Consumers

8 Industry Insight: Crossing Cues to

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DE7 [video] The Power of Touch in

36 26 Behind the ‘Gloss’

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Vol. 133, No. 10 | November/December 2018 Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 13

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• Here, authors review the European personal

T he focus on plastics and their environmen-

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• Here, Bart Heldreth, Ph.D., executive director