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Generator Tests
Generator Tests
2 GENERATOR
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Standard generators are shunt wound (armature and field circuits connected
in parallel), two-brush, high output generators. The generating system is a
negative (—) ground system. Output is controlled by a regulator which is
connected between the armature and field. The field is grounded internally
(Figs. 1 and 2).
Disconnect the regulator “ARM” and “FIELD” wires at the generator. Connect
a jumper wire from the generator “ARM” terminal to the generator “FIELD”
terminal and the positive lead of a 0-50 ammeter to the generator “ARM”
terminal (use 0-100 ammeter on heavy duty systems). Start the engine and
while it is idling, connect the ammeter negative lead to the battery. Run the
engine at 1500 r.p.m., and read the current output on the ammeter. The
generator output should reach or exceed 30 amperes (40-60 amperes on the
heavy duty generators). Slop the engine and disconnect the test leads as
soon as the test is completed to prevent overheating the generator.
ARMATURE TESTS. Checking the armature for open, short, or grounded
circuit can be done “off the vehicle” only.
Open Circuit Test
An open circuit in the armature can sometimes be detected by examining the
commutator for evidence of burning. The spot burned on the commutator is
caused by an arc formed every time the commutator segment connected to the
open circuit passes under a brush.
Short Circuit Test
Fig. 08: growler test for shorted armature
To test the armature for a short circuit in the windings, a “growler” must be
used as shown in Fig. 8, Rotate the armature slowly. When the shorted winding
is under the steel strip, it will cause the strip to vibrate.
Grounded Circuit Test
OFF VEHICLE. The field circuit can be tested off the vehicle in the same
manner as described in the “on vehicle” test above with the exception that a
return lead must be used to connect the generator frame to the battery (Fig. 11).
To test the field windings for a grounded circuit, remove the “GRD” terminal
stud from the generator frame. Make the voltmeter and battery connections as
shown in Fig. 12. If the voltmeter indicates any voltage, the field coils are
grounded. Be sure that the “GRD” terminal stud is not touching the
housing.
Generator Repair
Of the five repair operations outlined in this paragraph, the first, “Removal
and Installation” must be used when performing any one of the other four. The
complete disassembly procedure is given in “Generator Overhaul.” However,
“Armature Replacement,” “Commutator Turning and Undercutting,” and
“Brush Replacement” can be accomplished without completely disassembling
the generator. Therefore, these latter procedures eliminate those disassembly
steps that do not apply. A disassembled view of the standard generator is shown
in Fig. 13.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION.
Disconnect the armature, field, and ground wires at the generator terminals.
Remove the adjustment arm to generator bolt, the generator belt, and the two
pivot bolts from the mounting bracket. Then remove the generator (Fig. 5).
To install the generator, first clean the mating surfaces of the generator frame
and mounting bracket. Install the generator in the bracket with the two pivot
bolts and lockwashers. Install the generator belt, and the adjustment arm to
generator bolt. Adjust the belt tension and tighten all bolts securely. Install the
armature, field, and ground leads on the generator terminals.
GENERATOR OVERHAUL. Use the procedures outlined below for generator
overhaul or when it is necessary to completely disassemble a generator for such
purposes as bearing replacement or field coil replacement.
Disassembly
After the commutator is turned down, undercut the mica between the bars ^
inch below the copper using the undercutting tool as shown in Fig. 17.
Figure 18 illustrates samples of proper and improper undercutting. Polish the
commutator with #00 to #000 sandpaper to remove all burrs. Brush all
particles of copper from the mica insulation between the commutator
segments.
BRUSH REPLACEMENT. Replace the generator brushes when they are worn
to V2 inch. Always change both brushes when replacement is required.
Remove the two through bolts from the generator frame. Remove the brush
end plate and the armature and front end plate assembly from the generator
frame. Disconnect the brush terminals and remove the brushes. Clean the
carbon and dirt from the brush end plate. Repair or replace the insulation
between the brush holders and end plate and the “ARM” terminal and end plate
if it is worn or cracked. Make sure that the new brushes slide freely in the brush
holders. Seat the new brushes by sanding them in as shown in Fig. 19.
Retract the brushes until the brush springs ride against the side of the
brushes, to retain them in the retracted position. Install the armature and front
end plate assembly and the brush end plate (aligning the dowels and the frame
slots). Install the through bolts with lockwashers. Use a piece of stiff wire with a
hooked end to reach through the ventilating slots and position the brush springs
on top of the brushes. Lubricate the brush end plate bearing cup with a few
drops of engine oil (6-cylinder engine generators).